3D Printer - E3D Hotend Differences

  • เผยแพร่เมื่อ 25 ก.พ. 2017
  • We'll take a look at the differences between the E3D v6 Full, Lite and Clone hotends.
    E3D v6 Full 1.75mm Bowden Kit:
    E3D v6 Lite 1.75mm Bowden Kit:
    E3D v6 Clone 1.75mm Long Version:
    Block and Sock Upgrade Kit:
    Buy cheap 3D Printer kits and parts from Banggood here:

ความคิดเห็น • 199

  • Kurt Johnson
    Kurt Johnson 5 ปีที่แล้ว +2

    There are "solid" heat breaks without the PTFE insert in them available as well as different lengths for the clones.

  • Marinus
    Marinus 3 ปีที่แล้ว +1

    I got a clone with a #5 thermistor type (in Marlin). It's a cartridge that works really well for a thermistor. The clone I got is a Trianglelabs and I must say it's the best hotend I've ever had (and I'm into self-building printers since mid 2013), even though they have changed the design from E3D slightly.

  • thetriode
    thetriode 2 ปีที่แล้ว +2

    I've been trying to figure out what an "all metal hot end" was after hearing people talk about it a lot. The video is great at helping on that. My knockoff doesn't have the PTFE tubing going through so I suspect it depends on which one you get and how well they copy it. After trying ABS and having the tube shrivel up I think I'm going to give that a shot and try it again.

  • Michael
    Michael 5 ปีที่แล้ว

    This is an excellent video!! The quick and dirty on the differences on the full, the lite, and a clone E3DV6 hot ends. I think I will support the original designers of the E3dV6. That hypercube printer is pretty cool. Is there a kit that you could recommend if I wanted to purchase or build one? Thanks. Keep the content coming!!

  • Timothy Strees

    Used the e3d clone on my ender 3 before I switched to dual extruder. It was actually really good after switching to a genuine heat break. When I end up using the clone again on a different printer I will be getting the genuine block as well.

  • DigBipper188
    DigBipper188 3 ปีที่แล้ว

    The only thing that bugs me with the v6 is that the thermistor cartridge wires are extremely thin and break easily. You have to make sure it's solidly routed so that it doesn't get shaken while you print.

  • SaberShip
    SaberShip 5 ปีที่แล้ว

    Great enlightening video as always. Just curious, what is your favorite plastic to print in right now?

  • Benjamin Schultz
    Benjamin Schultz 3 ปีที่แล้ว

    The documentation that came with my Anycubic i3 Mega fell short in identifying what type of nozzle the printer uses. With your video, I was able to figure out what kind it was by its characteristics. Thank you for providing such detailed information!

  • Levisgil47
    Levisgil47 5 ปีที่แล้ว

    Hi Tech2C,

  • KnurdMonkey
    KnurdMonkey ปีที่แล้ว

    To overcome the max temp on the clon, just use the same breaker as the original if they have the same quotas. That's all :)

  • Ravindra Badgujar
    Ravindra Badgujar 5 ปีที่แล้ว

    I like your videos. your explanation is very nice and easy to understand. Thank you!

  • SirArghPirate
    SirArghPirate 5 ปีที่แล้ว

    I've noticed that on some clone heatbreaks the teflon tube can be inserted all the way down to the neck (narrow unthreaded part) of the heatbreak, while on others it only enters about 5mm from the top. From my experience the last heatbreak is extremely likely to jam, while the first one works fine. Which one of these resembles the "genuine" heatbreak the most?

  • James
    James 5 ปีที่แล้ว +1

    Hey tech2c, I really enjoyed your hypercube video series and I am working on building one.

  • R. Rob
    R. Rob 5 ปีที่แล้ว

    the clone works fine here, nothing wrong with that!

  • Milutzu K
    Milutzu K ปีที่แล้ว

    There are full metal tubes / heat breaks available for the clone. Thanks for the info, I'm looking to (further) modify my Anet A6 and I'm looking into E3D hotends (actually I went on the v5 hotend route).

  • Ryan Garrison
    Ryan Garrison 5 ปีที่แล้ว

    Also remember to loosen the brass nozzle from the heatblock a quarter turn, then screw in the heatbreak/heatsink assembly. And finally, tighten the nozzle down. This ensures a good seal between the the nozzle and heatbreak to prevent jams.

  • Bill Waslo
    Bill Waslo 5 ปีที่แล้ว

    I got a Triangle Labs E3D V6 clone all-metal. The heatbreak it came with (and the heatsink for it) was a V5 not a V6. Found out when I tried to by a replacement heatbreak from a US dealer, thought they sent me the wrong ones till I figured it out. V5 heatbreak is the same thread at both ends, V6 the two ends have different threads.

  • L3X.13
    L3X.13 2 ปีที่แล้ว

    The clone I brought for $8 from a local store is identical to the real thing. Im starting to think they messed the order or the clones have improved since this video was released.

  • Moxzot
    Moxzot 4 ปีที่แล้ว

    I hope the lite isn't actually steel because as a heatsink steel conducts heat poorly, but it might offer an advantage to resisting heat creep.

  • Scott Marshall
    Scott Marshall 3 ปีที่แล้ว

    It's been a year plus (nearly 2) since this video (Great video) and the clone I just bought came with the "Full" style heat break. (still the old block though)