I've been trying to figure out what an "all metal hot end" was after hearing people talk about it a lot. The video is great at helping on that. My knockoff doesn't have the PTFE tubing going through so I suspect it depends on which one you get and how well they copy it. After trying ABS and having the tube shrivel up I think I'm going to give that a shot and try it again.
There are "solid" heat breaks without the PTFE insert in them available as well as different lengths for the clones. I have both with and without the insert and they work fine. The new thermister and silicone sock are interesting and I will definitely be looking into those. For me, the only real interest in the clones was to have multiple hotends around to swap out and come back to later if any problems with clogging came up without the additional expense of the original + when playing with duals helps keep the cost down.
I got a clone with a #5 thermistor type (in Marlin). It's a cartridge that works really well for a thermistor. The clone I got is a Trianglelabs and I must say it's the best hotend I've ever had (and I'm into self-building printers since mid 2013), even though they have changed the design from E3D slightly.
just so you know man you can buy all metal heat breaks and just get rid of the ptfe tube one :) then couple it with the block and sock and youve got a good set going there.
There are full metal tubes / heat breaks available for the clone. Thanks for the info, I'm looking to (further) modify my Anet A6 and I'm looking into E3D hotends (actually I went on the v5 hotend route).
The documentation that came with my Anycubic i3 Mega fell short in identifying what type of nozzle the printer uses. With your video, I was able to figure out what kind it was by its characteristics. Thank you for providing such detailed information!
Funny thing is, now that I know, they all perform pretty much the same, as far as the heatsinks. I'll drill v5s out to 4mm to allow the bowden tube to reach all the way down to my preferred smooth-bore, all-metal heatbreak (bi-metal if you wish, but the first cheap one i got had a step in it so it took quite a bit to polish out). The clone heatsinks are actually kind of better because the bowden "bite" fitting can be replaced with a 3-d printed compression/nut style that does not let the bowden turn and cut in to it. Soo much easier to service. The smaller heatblocks with the m3 screw on the side to hold the thermistor are actually pretty nice too, because you can just screw a thermistor in there. I did eventually strip mine out on the heatbreak side though (but it took literally years of mucking around with it).
Fine presentation, thanks.... The hyper-cube is awesome X 10 !!! Would love to see a hyper-cube with a 32 bit smoothie board. I believe the corners will be rounder with 32 bit.
Jason, if my 32 bit MKS Sbase board (a smoothie board work alike; uses the same software, different hardware design) ever shows up, You'll have your wish. I'm building my own (larger) version of a hypercube, but I'm still waiting for parts. I hope that they arrive before I die of old age.
I got a Triangle Labs E3D V6 clone all-metal. The heatbreak it came with (and the heatsink for it) was a V5 not a V6. Found out when I tried to by a replacement heatbreak from a US dealer, thought they sent me the wrong ones till I figured it out. V5 heatbreak is the same thread at both ends, V6 the two ends have different threads.
it depends on where you get the clone different sellers are shipping different products some have all metal some have ptfe some have the old thermal block some have the new thermal block the clones are all over the shop :P
Would it be basically the same if you bought the clone and did the sock and heat block upgrade as you spoke of but also adding on the heat break screw that was different?
Just a note on the heatbreak I don't think they are as identical as you make them out to be. As someone mentioned the zone separation is better on the original. Note the "throat" is thinner on the original
Only for version showed in this video. There are heatbrake clones with the exact same design as the original, internally polished and even titanium. New style PT100 compatible heatblocks clones also.
you need to keep the heatsink fan on for a bit after you turn it off so the heat wont creep up to the pla and make it expand jamming it unless you have jamming issues while printing, i have no problems there
I am currently making my hypercube 3D printer and with the x carriage whenever I tighten both of the dual bushing holders down the whole carriage tightens up and I can't move it. If you can diagnose it that would be nice.
I've noticed that on some clone heatbreaks the teflon tube can be inserted all the way down to the neck (narrow unthreaded part) of the heatbreak, while on others it only enters about 5mm from the top. From my experience the last heatbreak is extremely likely to jam, while the first one works fine. Which one of these resembles the "genuine" heatbreak the most?
Also remember to loosen the brass nozzle from the heatblock a quarter turn, then screw in the heatbreak/heatsink assembly. And finally, tighten the nozzle down. This ensures a good seal between the the nozzle and heatbreak to prevent jams.
You are saying there is a difference in bowden tube contact with the heat break between the left and right heads? the bowden tube sits inside both of them similar depth inside the heat break, the same, basically, so there is really no difference. All of them work fine provided the user understands what the heat break does, and one is careful with the middle one not to sit the bowden tube all the way down. It is all a matter of understanding the process, how things work, and one cnan skin that cat in many ways. But nice introductory video. Yeah silicon socks are great from many respects, but they also help keep filament from sticking to the heater block, besides thermal insulation, this is probably another best feature of such.
so can you mount the e3dv6 heat break and block on to the clone and still get the same performance of the original e3dv6?? still be able to print as high temps and also what about the new cooper heat block can you use those also with the clones at high temps?
Sorry for the reply to such an old comment/question. I have the same question. I'm trying very hard to figure out the best way to upgrade my Ender 3 to print faster (2x-3x without losing quality) and to be able to print CF Nylon without spending more money than it's worth... and after months I'm still pretty damn clueless. I was told that a direct drive was 100% necessary to print faster on the Ender 3 and was going down that rout first (and even ordered a Sprite extruder/hotend setup and received only the extruder)... so then I was trying to find a compatible hotend, but how the hell am I supposed to know what's compatible if no one says? ... and then (only recently) I've read from several sources that a direct drive slows down print speed, because of the weight... so now I'm still stuck. I have a V6 clone I got for cheap, but I don't want to install it and go through all that trouble just to have it not work good. I also don't know if it's compatible with the Sprite extruder, because it's a bowden V6 clone... and I'm not even sure if I should bother installing the Sprite extruder. A friend of mine said I can borrow his Micro Swiss, so I'm going to use that for a bit (I think), but I'm still not sure if I should try the Sprite Extruder or not. At least if I do end up borrowing the Micro Swiss it'll give me more time to make a decision and also to save up if I want to get something a little better. Hope you forgive the long rant. It's been a really, really tough subject to research and all I ever seem to get is conflicting information over and over.
I also bought one of the V6 clones recently (quite happy so far) and mine came with a selection of _three_ different heat breaks; two matched the ones you have on the genuine and clone, but also a third one which is half-way in between. (which is the one I use) The bowden tube goes a fair way down into the heat break - almost to the narrow neck part, but not all the way through to the hot-end. I didn't realize the genuine "all metal" insert tube stopped that far up (seems about a third of the distance)... do you think taking the tube down further into the heat-break compromises the ability to take the hotend up to 300 degrees? (which is why I bought it) Or does the PTFE need to stay as far up and away as it does in the genuine? I'm not that fond of deadly deadly neurotoxin, so I figured I'd ask.
Thank you for this, I am confused, you said the clone and Lite can't handle the same "vastly higher" temps as the V6. I can see why the Lite can't but the clone's bowden tube stops at the same place (the heat-break) so was mistake or is something else different that I didn't see?
quick question what is that circular thing at the top i need to find something like that for my stock creality hotend so i can mount a direct drive bmg extruder on it.
Hey tech2c, I really enjoyed your hypercube video series and I am working on building one. Can you modify the XY_jointer and all the other files needed to accept the 9mm "Timing belt idler pulley with bearing" peice from bangood? It would be really cool if you could do that so that the belt would turn arround corners without the risk of getting it damaged.
The only thing that bugs me with the v6 is that the thermistor cartridge wires are extremely thin and break easily. You have to make sure it's solidly routed so that it doesn't get shaken while you print.
how do you replace the bowden clips in the e3d heatsink? is it reliable? I kind of prefer the clones fitting because its easily replaced and they are screw lock fittings that can replace them too.
When you order an E3D hot end, it comes with a thermistor cartridge. A Thermistor is a temperature sensitive resistor, and the electronics use a simple voltage divider to read the resistance of the thermistor, and thus calculate the temperature. Problem is, they get damaged upwards of 300 degrees C. A thermocouple can handle much higher temperatures, but they work differently. A thermocouple actually generates a voltage, so you need additional hardware (the amplifier board) so that the printer CPU can make sense of the thermocouple's output.
The thermistor cartridge that comes with the kits don't need an external amplifier board. I think you are referring to the PT100 cartridge which looks the same but requires the amp board.
Tech2C I was thinking this as well. e3d full heat break, e3d lite heat block, clone heatsink. is it possible? best of both 3 world's. (hehe, 3) or at least e3d full heat break with the better of the two (full or clone) heat blocks onto the clone.
Thanks tech2c for this video I have e3v6 clone i decided to buy e3d v6 kit upgrade( original kit with socks and new thermista on it ) with heat break metal without ptfe tube .. but i have an issue with it allways jam or clog in the nozzel .. i don't know why .. i modefied the setting retraction to 2mm distance and 50mm/s speed .. allways same thing ... with tube ptfe not issue in all .. but i can't go up to 245c thank you for supporting .. mamsih from france
Hi there, in what material do you print the accesories to hold the E3D to the printer? do the have to be hot ressistent if I have an enclosure (waiting on delivery for a Cr-10) good video btw
It's been a year plus (nearly 2) since this video (Great video) and the clone I just bought came with the "Full" style heat break. (still the old block though)
Hi Tech2C, Great video, thanks. Now I'm a bit confused about which of the E3DV6 hotend to pick up as a universall hotend to print as well as flexible filament as nylon. Should I take the Universal, the direct (which I dont think) or the Bowden one? Thanks a lot for clarifying.
Yes I got an e3D v6 clone, lasted over a year but I accidentally cranked up the temperature to 250c with untuned PID settings so I ruined the PTFE throat
sorry I have a problem the printing part then when the 2 fan that cools the nozzle drops me the temperature is blocked me the press giving me error I have the same lcd .. what firw do you use?
on my robo 3d I have a real e3d v6 but on my geeetech G2s I bought 2 clones and 2 real e3d heat breaks and aside from the bowden adapters I can't tell the diffidence with the real heat break it can get to over 300 (did it to tighten the nozzle to heat break) the heat breaks are only like $11 us and I got the clones for 8 bucks a piece so I paid about $38 for 2 v6s
I have everything setup the way you have it, except the x endstop is on the righthand side as you look at the front of the printer. I can not for the life of me get this thing to home properly, I have tried what feels like every combination of motor plug orientation and firmware endstop configuration. Could someone point in the right direction please? I'm so close!
I just want to point out a few things about the differences which you missed. While you'd think the heatbreak and the nozzles are identical to the clones, there's quite a bit more to it than just outter dimensions. Nozzle are a bit more complicated than what they seem. The insides of clone nozzles are different and same goes for the heatbreak. The clone heatbreaks have really bad finish inside which will result in the filament sticking to them and getting clogged. And also on the original Lite6 version. If you lock the ptfe tube securely the right way as mentioned on E3D wiki, it'll never come out and create a mess inside like you mentioned at 6:05. I actually noticed on your older videos that you don't lock your ptfe tube inside, which leaves a bit of wiggle room for the ptfe tube to go up and down. You need push the tube down and hold it while you pull the bowden clip back up. Then test and see if the tube moves at all, it shouldn't. Sorry about the rambling, it kind of bothered me because I've had terrible experience from the clones (all metal) and most of it came from what I explained.
This is an excellent video!! The quick and dirty on the differences on the full, the lite, and a clone E3DV6 hot ends. I think I will support the original designers of the E3dV6. That hypercube printer is pretty cool. Is there a kit that you could recommend if I wanted to purchase or build one? Thanks. Keep the content coming!!
can you thread a genuine heartbreak and block into a clone heatsink. and expect the same max heat results. also i was planning on making my setup dual extrusion. would you suggest two e3d v6's or a single e3d Chimera.
Victor García you can use them as direct drive either by adding a PTFE tube to your direct drive or feeding directly into the hotend. The V5 of E3D is a direct drive model
PTFE melting temp according to Wikipedia and other teflon manufacturers is 327 °C (621 °F). I have used a cloned heat break at 260C for 2 to three hour prints without issues on a stock anet a8 printer. I use nylon.
Thanks for warning us about the Clone heatbreak! I'm new to this lark and building the Hypercube. I have already ordered the Clone hotend, and thought I would be fine printing ABS, I realise I'm going to have to get the E3 full to do that. Now if I could just get a E3 heatbreak......
the clone works fine here, nothing wrong with that! TIP! if you extruder crashes check the hite brake for burrs and also often, Heat brake and extruders can exchange with each other! they are selling on online stores also hite brake loose separately(with and without Teflon!) Wishing everyone a good 3D ..... Friendly greetings from Netherlands! Rob.
The clone I brought for $8 from a local store is identical to the real thing. Im starting to think they messed the order or the clones have improved since this video was released.
there are much more 1.75mm filament out there, so that's the way to go. the "standard" size for a all day nozzle is 0.4mm, it's reasonably fast and accurate. But you can also purchase the e3d Nozzle Fun pack with all their nozzles (it's also cheaper instead of buying all nozzles seperate). Nozzle change is quite fast, and after that, just calibrate your Z axis again. It's a matter of minutes to do a nozzle change ;)
To support them even more you can purchase their real, and highly polished, heat break too. By the time you are done with the clone + real E3D upgrades you have spent about 45 dollars ($19.99+$14.99+$8.99) instead of 75 for a complete real E3D-V6.
I like your videos. your explanation is very nice and easy to understand. Thank you! I have been following on your Bowden setup and it looks really nice. by the way It will be very helpful if you can upload video on E3d Chimera Dual nozzle dual extruder setup for Prusa i3 like design. because that should be the next upgrade I think once we are successful in printing with single nozzle single color. I think dual color makes it more interesting option. Thanks!
Interesting idea, my clones are full al metal (there are some guys on aliexpress selling full metal heat breaks and extruders), the heat block would be an easy win for me..... roll on payday :D
Wow you have a lot of leakage. If you leave a little space on the nozzle, then when you put in the tube, you can tighten the nozzle a bit more and stop those nasty looking leaks. It is soft metal, so don't over tighten. You just want it a little more snug than hand tight.
I have noting but bad experiences with the E3D sock. Some filament seems to get sucked up inside the sock and then it will push the sock down. Small pieces of blue material ended up in the print. The sock will get lose in about a week or 2. Lots of people with the same experience. I always buy real E3D hotends and they are great but I think the sock is there first big failure.
I'm using the sock also for about 1 month now, and it works flawlessly without a problem. In fact, my temperatures are more stable after the Cooling fan kicks in
It may be the way you are routing the thermistor and heater wiring. Try to tuck the sock in between the wiring and the aluminum block in order to get the sock tight up against the block. The very tip of the nozzle should be protruding through the bottom of the sock by a small amount (0.25 - 0.5 mm or so). If the nozzle is inside the sock then it will not work properly. - Eddy
so the full is light and the lite is heavy?
my kind of humour.
I've been trying to figure out what an "all metal hot end" was after hearing people talk about it a lot. The video is great at helping on that. My knockoff doesn't have the PTFE tubing going through so I suspect it depends on which one you get and how well they copy it. After trying ABS and having the tube shrivel up I think I'm going to give that a shot and try it again.
There are "solid" heat breaks without the PTFE insert in them available as well as different lengths for the clones.
I have both with and without the insert and they work fine. The new thermister and silicone sock are interesting and I will definitely be looking into those.
For me, the only real interest in the clones was to have multiple hotends around to swap out and come back to later if any problems with clogging came up without the additional expense of the original + when playing with duals helps keep the cost down.
I got a clone with a #5 thermistor type (in Marlin). It's a cartridge that works really well for a thermistor. The clone I got is a Trianglelabs and I must say it's the best hotend I've ever had (and I'm into self-building printers since mid 2013), even though they have changed the design from E3D slightly.
just so you know man you can buy all metal heat breaks and just get rid of the ptfe tube one :) then couple it with the block and sock and youve got a good set going there.
Yep, agreed.
That's what I was thinking. If you can use the heat block from E3D, then why not the heat break?
Could you just remove the ptfe from the clone heat break?
can you also put the original heat break into the clone body to get all metal hot end?
Yes! u can do it, and it works perfectly
There are full metal tubes / heat breaks available for the clone. Thanks for the info, I'm looking to (further) modify my Anet A6 and I'm looking into E3D hotends (actually I went on the v5 hotend route).
The documentation that came with my Anycubic i3 Mega fell short in identifying what type of nozzle the printer uses. With your video, I was able to figure out what kind it was by its characteristics. Thank you for providing such detailed information!
1st time I see one of your videos, you sound just like Dave from EEVblog. Thanks for the good info.
Nah? Similar but much more merry...
Funny thing is, now that I know, they all perform pretty much the same, as far as the heatsinks. I'll drill v5s out to 4mm to allow the bowden tube to reach all the way down to my preferred smooth-bore, all-metal heatbreak (bi-metal if you wish, but the first cheap one i got had a step in it so it took quite a bit to polish out). The clone heatsinks are actually kind of better because the bowden "bite" fitting can be replaced with a 3-d printed compression/nut style that does not let the bowden turn and cut in to it. Soo much easier to service. The smaller heatblocks with the m3 screw on the side to hold the thermistor are actually pretty nice too, because you can just screw a thermistor in there. I did eventually strip mine out on the heatbreak side though (but it took literally years of mucking around with it).
Fine presentation, thanks.... The hyper-cube is awesome X 10 !!! Would love to see a hyper-cube with a 32 bit smoothie board. I believe the corners will be rounder with 32 bit.
Jason, if my 32 bit MKS Sbase board (a smoothie board work alike; uses the same software, different hardware design) ever shows up, You'll have your wish. I'm building my own (larger) version of a hypercube, but I'm still waiting for parts. I hope that they arrive before I die of old age.
Thanx for the video. But measuring the weight you did it wrong? The full , you must weigh the heat break with it , as the light is intergradted
I got a Triangle Labs E3D V6 clone all-metal. The heatbreak it came with (and the heatsink for it) was a V5 not a V6. Found out when I tried to by a replacement heatbreak from a US dealer, thought they sent me the wrong ones till I figured it out. V5 heatbreak is the same thread at both ends, V6 the two ends have different threads.
Thank You ! I got a E3D Light on my old Printer and now i know why it went bust. Got a Chinese Bowden cheap but will maybe change on a "universal".
Hey. Look at the your left pulley 10:05 , there is something wrong. The clone have too full metal heatsink .
it depends on where you get the clone different sellers are shipping different products some have all metal some have ptfe some have the old thermal block some have the new thermal block the clones are all over the shop :P
Would it be basically the same if you bought the clone and did the sock and heat block upgrade as you spoke of but also adding on the heat break screw that was different?
Yep.
Hi Tech2C, thanks for this comparision video. Do you also have experiences with E3D dual color/filament extruders?
Not yet, just single extruduer printing with switching filament mid-print.
Just a note on the heatbreak I don't think they are as identical as you make them out to be. As someone mentioned the zone separation is better on the original. Note the "throat" is thinner on the original
Only for version showed in this video. There are heatbrake clones with the exact same design as the original, internally polished and even titanium. New style PT100 compatible heatblocks clones also.
I have both the full and lite E3d hot end kits. But I stopped using the full metal because PLA keeps on jamming the nozzle.
Interesting, I don't have that problem with the Full kit.
you need to keep the heatsink fan on for a bit after you turn it off so the heat wont creep up to the pla and make it expand jamming it
unless you have jamming issues while printing, i have no problems there
your heatsink fan should be always on anyways
I have the same issue I get excessive stringing and can't increase retraction or I will get jams
Thank you for using metric units!
I am currently making my hypercube 3D printer and with the x carriage whenever I tighten both of the dual bushing holders down the whole carriage tightens up and I can't move it. If you can diagnose it that would be nice.
You sound very very similar to EEVblog. I thought this is a video of him at first.
I've noticed that on some clone heatbreaks the teflon tube can be inserted all the way down to the neck (narrow unthreaded part) of the heatbreak, while on others it only enters about 5mm from the top. From my experience the last heatbreak is extremely likely to jam, while the first one works fine. Which one of these resembles the "genuine" heatbreak the most?
Also remember to loosen the brass nozzle from the heatblock a quarter turn, then screw in the heatbreak/heatsink assembly. And finally, tighten the nozzle down. This ensures a good seal between the the nozzle and heatbreak to prevent jams.
Yes, but I loosen half a turn to allow the nozzle to protrude out of the silicone sock.
One question: the nozzle must be all inside the block ?
Sometimes I see all in and sometimes 2 mm out .....please.
Thanks
You are saying there is a difference in bowden tube contact with the heat break between the left and right heads? the bowden tube sits inside both of them similar depth inside the heat break, the same, basically, so there is really no difference. All of them work fine provided the user understands what the heat break does, and one is careful with the middle one not to sit the bowden tube all the way down. It is all a matter of understanding the process, how things work, and one cnan skin that cat in many ways. But nice introductory video. Yeah silicon socks are great from many respects, but they also help keep filament from sticking to the heater block, besides thermal insulation, this is probably another best feature of such.
Couldn't you also use E3D V6's heat break in the clone, therefore, razing the heat threshold?
What would be the outcome if I just removed the PTFE insert from the clone?
so can you mount the e3dv6 heat break and block on to the clone and still get the same performance of the original e3dv6?? still be able to print as high temps and also what about the new cooper heat block can you use those also with the clones at high temps?
Sorry for the reply to such an old comment/question. I have the same question. I'm trying very hard to figure out the best way to upgrade my Ender 3 to print faster (2x-3x without losing quality) and to be able to print CF Nylon without spending more money than it's worth... and after months I'm still pretty damn clueless. I was told that a direct drive was 100% necessary to print faster on the Ender 3 and was going down that rout first (and even ordered a Sprite extruder/hotend setup and received only the extruder)... so then I was trying to find a compatible hotend, but how the hell am I supposed to know what's compatible if no one says? ... and then (only recently) I've read from several sources that a direct drive slows down print speed, because of the weight... so now I'm still stuck. I have a V6 clone I got for cheap, but I don't want to install it and go through all that trouble just to have it not work good. I also don't know if it's compatible with the Sprite extruder, because it's a bowden V6 clone... and I'm not even sure if I should bother installing the Sprite extruder. A friend of mine said I can borrow his Micro Swiss, so I'm going to use that for a bit (I think), but I'm still not sure if I should try the Sprite Extruder or not. At least if I do end up borrowing the Micro Swiss it'll give me more time to make a decision and also to save up if I want to get something a little better. Hope you forgive the long rant. It's been a really, really tough subject to research and all I ever seem to get is conflicting information over and over.
I also bought one of the V6 clones recently (quite happy so far) and mine came with a selection of _three_ different heat breaks; two matched the ones you have on the genuine and clone, but also a third one which is half-way in between. (which is the one I use) The bowden tube goes a fair way down into the heat break - almost to the narrow neck part, but not all the way through to the hot-end. I didn't realize the genuine "all metal" insert tube stopped that far up (seems about a third of the distance)... do you think taking the tube down further into the heat-break compromises the ability to take the hotend up to 300 degrees? (which is why I bought it) Or does the PTFE need to stay as far up and away as it does in the genuine?
I'm not that fond of deadly deadly neurotoxin, so I figured I'd ask.
Ptfe melts at 250°
Thank you for this, I am confused, you said the clone and Lite can't handle the same "vastly higher" temps as the V6. I can see why the Lite can't but the clone's bowden tube stops at the same place (the heat-break) so was mistake or is something else different that I didn't see?
quick question what is that circular thing at the top i need to find something like that for my stock creality hotend so i can mount a direct drive bmg extruder on it.
should I get the E3d clone and put a volcano on it???
Hey tech2c, I really enjoyed your hypercube video series and I am working on building one.
Can you modify the XY_jointer and all the other files needed to accept the 9mm "Timing belt idler pulley with bearing" peice from bangood? It would be really cool if you could do that so that the belt would turn arround corners without the risk of getting it damaged.
Thanks for the direct comparison. Buying the e3d lite.
That scale is the most accurate and consistent pocket scale for the money. I have tried several, and that one is the most reliable. I have three.
The only thing that bugs me with the v6 is that the thermistor cartridge wires are extremely thin and break easily. You have to make sure it's solidly routed so that it doesn't get shaken while you print.
how do you replace the bowden clips in the e3d heatsink? is it reliable? I kind of prefer the clones fitting because its easily replaced and they are screw lock fittings that can replace them too.
no video how this clone works?
I was so looking forward to it?
regards
rob.
Thermistor upgrade doesn't work without a amplifier board? Can you explain for us 1st time builders?
When you order an E3D hot end, it comes with a thermistor cartridge. A Thermistor is a temperature sensitive resistor, and the electronics use a simple voltage divider to read the resistance of the thermistor, and thus calculate the temperature. Problem is, they get damaged upwards of 300 degrees C.
A thermocouple can handle much higher temperatures, but they work differently. A thermocouple actually generates a voltage, so you need additional hardware (the amplifier board) so that the printer CPU can make sense of the thermocouple's output.
Thanks. So a little more cost to upgrade.
Yeah, and unless you want to print in very high temp plastics it isn't worth it. Most plastics print just fine below 300C.
The thermistor cartridge that comes with the kits don't need an external amplifier board. I think you are referring to the PT100 cartridge which looks the same but requires the amp board.
would it be interesting to mount the original e3d full heat break in the clone version ?
It does fit...
Tech2C I was thinking this as well.
e3d full heat break, e3d lite heat block, clone heatsink. is it possible? best of both 3 world's. (hehe, 3)
or at least e3d full heat break with the better of the two (full or clone) heat blocks onto the clone.
Try it urself, 6 bucks for 6 on amazob
So why not get the clone and upgrade the heat break to all metal
Thanks tech2c for this video
I have e3v6 clone i decided to buy e3d v6 kit upgrade( original kit with socks and new thermista on it ) with heat break metal without ptfe tube ..
but i have an issue with it allways jam or clog in the nozzel .. i don't know why ..
i modefied the setting retraction to 2mm distance and 50mm/s speed ..
allways same thing ...
with tube ptfe not issue in all .. but i can't go up to 245c
thank you for supporting ..
mamsih from france
Hi there, in what material do you print the accesories to hold the E3D to the printer? do the have to be hot ressistent if I have an enclosure (waiting on delivery for a Cr-10) good video btw
I hope the lite isn't actually steel because as a heatsink steel conducts heat poorly, but it might offer an advantage to resisting heat creep.
It's been a year plus (nearly 2) since this video (Great video) and the clone I just bought came with the "Full" style heat break. (still the old block though)
Hi, i am upgrading to full metal hot end... did you limit retraction and change speed after upgrade to full metal hot end to limit stringing? thanks
Hi Tech2C,
Great video, thanks.
Now I'm a bit confused about which of the E3DV6 hotend to pick up as a universall hotend to print as well as flexible filament as nylon. Should I take the Universal, the direct (which I dont think) or the Bowden one?
Thanks a lot for clarifying.
Noob question: I'm noticing there is 12v and 24v versions. How do I know which of the two to buy? EDIT: Of the whole kits, I mean.
look at your power supply. I have an ender 3 so i'll take a 24v.
@@xLucaGU88 The output says 12v, so I assume that's my answer, yes?
Yes!
@@xLucaGU88 Ok, thank you.
Yes I got an e3D v6 clone, lasted over a year but I accidentally cranked up the temperature to 250c with untuned PID settings so I ruined the PTFE throat
sorry I have a problem the printing part then when the 2 fan that cools the nozzle drops me the temperature is blocked me the press giving me error I have the same lcd .. what firw do you use?
Thanks, I bought two clones, and some socks... didn't know about the heat blocks...
on my robo 3d I have a real e3d v6 but on my geeetech G2s I bought 2 clones and 2 real e3d heat breaks and aside from the bowden adapters I can't tell the diffidence with the real heat break it can get to over 300 (did it to tighten the nozzle to heat break) the heat breaks are only like $11 us and I got the clones for 8 bucks a piece so I paid about $38 for 2 v6s
I have everything setup the way you have it, except the x endstop is on the righthand side as you look at the front of the printer. I can not for the life of me get this thing to home properly, I have tried what feels like every combination of motor plug orientation and firmware endstop configuration.
Could someone point in the right direction please? I'm so close!
what speeds you have on hypercube evolution?
have you attempted to print with flexible filaments on a Bowden style?
Yes, check my channel for the flexible filament video.
Great enlightening video as always. Just curious, what is your favorite plastic to print in right now?
Do you have to change the sensor in marlen
any chance you have a video covering the different options to fit the E3D V6 to a Ender 5 Pro.
Just did this, remixed a couple different ones from thingiverse to get a nice mount that can use all stock hardware
I just want to point out a few things about the differences which you missed.
While you'd think the heatbreak and the nozzles are identical to the clones, there's quite a bit more to it than just outter dimensions.
Nozzle are a bit more complicated than what they seem. The insides of clone nozzles are different and same goes for the heatbreak. The clone heatbreaks have really bad finish inside which will result in the filament sticking to them and getting clogged.
And also on the original Lite6 version. If you lock the ptfe tube securely the right way as mentioned on E3D wiki, it'll never come out and create a mess inside like you mentioned at 6:05.
I actually noticed on your older videos that you don't lock your ptfe tube inside, which leaves a bit of wiggle room for the ptfe tube to go up and down. You need push the tube down and hold it while you pull the bowden clip back up. Then test and see if the tube moves at all, it shouldn't.
Sorry about the rambling, it kind of bothered me because I've had terrible experience from the clones (all metal) and most of it came from what I explained.
I've have all 3 and the Clone as never let me down.. plus I have all the cash in my pocket...
Is PTFE heartbreak needed for PLA? I ordered an all metal. Is it safe for all filaments?
Can you use the original heatbreak on the clone?
This is an excellent video!! The quick and dirty on the differences on the full, the lite, and a clone E3DV6 hot ends. I think I will support the original designers of the E3dV6. That hypercube printer is pretty cool. Is there a kit that you could recommend if I wanted to purchase or build one? Thanks. Keep the content coming!!
can you thread a genuine heartbreak and block into a clone heatsink. and expect the same max heat results. also i was planning on making my setup dual extrusion. would you suggest two e3d v6's or a single e3d Chimera.
yep :)
Which cartridge thermistor is correct for a mk3. thanks
Does the Real E3D v6 Heatbreack fit in the clone Heatblock and the Clone Top part ?
So its only for bowden extruders? E3D does not make a direct drive version?
Victor García you can use them as direct drive either by adding a PTFE tube to your direct drive or feeding directly into the hotend. The V5 of E3D is a direct drive model
For me best setup is Titan extruder e èwith e3d v6, my prusa prints awesome with it
Hi there ! I have got an anycubic i3 mega, which has not all metal extruder. Could i replace just the heatbreak?
PTFE melting temp according to Wikipedia and other teflon manufacturers is 327 °C (621 °F). I have used a cloned heat break at 260C for 2 to three hour prints without issues on a stock anet a8 printer. I use nylon.
To overcome the max temp on the clon, just use the same breaker as the original if they have the same quotas. That's all :)
Thanks for warning us about the Clone heatbreak! I'm new to this lark and building the Hypercube. I have already ordered the Clone hotend, and thought I would be fine printing ABS, I realise I'm going to have to get the E3 full to do that.
Now if I could just get a E3 heatbreak......
which E3D hotend do you use in 2020?
Can i just buy the original heatbreak and mount it on my clone heatsind and heatblock?
i hope! I've seen that e3d sells on his website the heatbreak so i have think the same
So much thank you, I have a XYZ Davinci 1.0a, gona upgrade to the Full kit. I whank to pring Ninja Flex and Nylon.. is possible?
the clone works fine here, nothing wrong with that!
TIP!
if you extruder crashes check the hite brake for burrs
and also often, Heat brake and extruders can exchange with each other!
they are selling on online stores also hite brake loose separately(with and without Teflon!)
Wishing everyone a good 3D .....
Friendly greetings from Netherlands!
Rob.
The clone I brought for $8 from a local store is identical to the real thing. Im starting to think they messed the order or the clones have improved since this video was released.
Great video. I just installed a clone yesterday. I mean its not something special but what should I expect for a few dollars lol
My clone came with both PTFE and All metal heat breaks.
What are they versions of?
What is purpose of V6 lite? Heavier, can't take as hight temperatures, worse cooling, worse heat breaking... why did they develop something like that?
Thank you for sharing your thoughts wit us now we know what is the diference :) Cheers
Thank you for this very informative video - super helpful
if i use the anet a8,
what type do i need 12V or 24V?
Really good demonstration. Thanks!
I'm about to upgrade my Prusa i3, what diameter filament do you prefer? 1.75 or 3mm...
And what head diameter ?
For general use...
there are much more 1.75mm filament out there, so that's the way to go.
the "standard" size for a all day nozzle is 0.4mm, it's reasonably fast and accurate. But you can also purchase the e3d Nozzle Fun pack with all their nozzles (it's also cheaper instead of buying all nozzles seperate). Nozzle change is quite fast, and after that, just calibrate your Z axis again. It's a matter of minutes to do a nozzle change ;)
Thanks. Ps... what's the difference between the push fittings and the clip fittings for Bowden?
There is none difference between them. The "clip" fitting you mentioned is just the E3D style push fitting, it is integrated in to the Heatsink.
Hi, v gd video. I just like to know, "higher temperature" means what? 280°, or 300° ? thanks
To support them even more you can purchase their real, and highly polished, heat break too. By the time you are done with the clone + real E3D upgrades you have spent about 45 dollars ($19.99+$14.99+$8.99) instead of 75 for a complete real E3D-V6.
Good idea.
Could someome maybe post a link on the 24v clone version? :)
question, why not get the heat break from the real E3D and screw that into the clone ?
Same question here
aluminnnnnnnium.......its always a blast to hear it said that way lol.
I like your videos. your explanation is very nice and easy to understand. Thank you!
I have been following on your Bowden setup and it looks really nice. by the way It will be very helpful if you can upload video on E3d Chimera Dual nozzle dual extruder setup for Prusa i3 like design. because that should be the next upgrade I think once we are successful in printing with single nozzle single color. I think dual color makes it more interesting option. Thanks!
Interesting idea, my clones are full al metal (there are some guys on aliexpress selling full metal heat breaks and extruders), the heat block would be an easy win for me..... roll on payday :D
I got a clone from amazon and it doesn't have a PTFE tube in the heatbreak either.
Wow you have a lot of leakage. If you leave a little space on the nozzle, then when you put in the tube, you can tighten the nozzle a bit more and stop those nasty looking leaks. It is soft metal, so don't over tighten. You just want it a little more snug than hand tight.
My favorite youtuber
I have noting but bad experiences with the E3D sock. Some filament seems to get sucked up inside the sock and then it will push the sock down. Small pieces of blue material ended up in the print. The sock will get lose in about a week or 2. Lots of people with the same experience. I always buy real E3D hotends and they are great but I think the sock is there first big failure.
I've been using the silicone sock now for 2 months and have not experienced any of what you describe.
I'm using the sock also for about 1 month now, and it works flawlessly without a problem. In fact, my temperatures are more stable after the Cooling fan kicks in
Nor have I.
It may be the way you are routing the thermistor and heater wiring. Try to tuck the sock in between the wiring and the aluminum block in order to get the sock tight up against the block. The very tip of the nozzle should be protruding through the bottom of the sock by a small amount (0.25 - 0.5 mm or so). If the nozzle is inside the sock then it will not work properly.
- Eddy
Cool Mate, Thanks for this information
Pst.. Engineer, want to try a volcano hot end?
It’s not a ripoff like everyone thinks it is... the v6 can be done by everyone. It’s an open source project so everyone can make their blocks...
thankyou for the information..i was soo cunfused