Oh great content. I LIKE the way you go straight to the point. Not like other youtubers who beat about the bush to make a 6-minute-worth of content go for over 20 minutes with many uuuhuuu...ooohhhooo.....mmmmmhhhh....eeeehhhheeee.....and many unrelated stories about the hare and the tortoise going to the market to buy groceries. Very good job and good flow of content. How do you know all this stuff though?
Yes exactly. If it were other TH-cam channels they will give a 5 day lecture about the history of VVT and the inventor and his/her upbringing,about their parents and their parent's hobbies. This is much better to the point and short and simple👍
you are SO SPOT ON, I really hate the You Tube vids that do not get to the point as you have said. I just watched a video where he didn't even got to point until eleven out of 16 minuttes into the video
I almost bought my mother in laws crv had the same problem. But she only changed her oil based on the oil life monitor and I’m pretty sure that’s why she had that cold rattle.
Wow! After years of a muddled understanding on how this VVT system works, your video has clarified for me how this system operates. Thank you. Well done. 🙂👍🏼
Here the trick I use to not rattle at next start. When your done driving the car , park it and let it idle for 3 minutes. At your next start it shouldn't rattle. It's been working for me .
@@wilsonemeka1833 yes it stopped working for me too. The best you could do to minimize the sound is push the start button and let it crank but push it again b4 it starts so it could shut off, then just push it to start again normally and by then you have some more oil circulated 😂 screw it theres no way around it man. Its gana rattle. Car still runs good tho
It's nice to know this isn't a critical issue. As long as it works and you're not getting stuck in advanced or late timing and screwing up your hp and mileage, nothing really to worry about. I do see auto shop scam material here though. An expensive fix to repair something that isn't really broken.
@@DragonSailor-Hooah common issue. i have a 2009 aswell. i have heard of people running the car for years with VVT rattle. no problems. and if fixed it can come back still..
@@Jalopymediai dont know if this is true but I swear I've heard that there's a chance that if you have the vvti rattle on a Toyota, the part or spring could eventually come loose and that would be bad to have a loose part inside the engine. But I'd look into that before really worrying about it.
At the end of the day your brother made this video possible. He gave you the proper tools to explain very well about the rattle. His used underware and tooth brush. Great video very well explained and very funny also!.
My brother 🤣 I remember the old days when I over torque transmission oil pan broke 1 bolt,, bring to transmission shop . You know who I blame My........ brother
I just replaced the cam gear on my ‘13 Camry , the new one also rattles 😳🤦♂️ less than the old one but is noisy when started in the morning ☹️help please 🙏
Well i've got over 300k on my 08 Corolla now. I think I'll just Learn to embrace this noise as comforting and familiar sound. Almost like the smell of an old leather jacket.
2008 Scion XD which has a VVT engine and rattles just like you show in the video. Will it cause a sudden failure and danger to me or is it ok to drive a lot longer?
This has been bothering me for years and I am not even a Toyota owner. Thank you so much for allowing me to sound really smart in front of my neighbors and family members who own Toyotas on Zoom meeting even all I could say was "there is a pin inside the engine that is making the noise..." before I lost them completely.
I got recommended this video just when I was about to give up on finding a solution to my cars rattling noise. Thank you so much I am officially subscribed
My '09 Pontiac Vibe (1.8L Toyota engine) does this. I've found that (on cold mornings) if I turn on the ignition and wait 5 or 6 seconds before starting then the rattle doesn't happen.
Have a Jeep Cherokee 3.2. 59k miles. It makes that noise at start up. Most say it’s the rocker arms failing and wearing down the cam lobes problem. But it’s not a constant ticking it’s just start up. Can this also be VVT actuator lock pins on the 3.2? If yes should I try 5W30 instead of spec 5W20 for added pressure? Or is it better to go to a 0W for faster flow?
A house brand engine oil flush fixed this rattle on my 110K+ Camry. I ran it a bit longer than intended (2 days) before changing oil/filter because of weather, but just wanted to mention because it saved me from the "damn that doesn't sound good" anxiety every morning, even though it's probably not that big a deal as you said
I can’t comment for this guy but I used an oil cleaner (MMO) mixed with Seafoam for a mere 15 minutes before draining out the oil and eliminated the clashing noise. Worth a try.
My Lexus is300h hybrid 2014 with 60k on it every morning, always serviced on time with 0W20 oil, and you know what the rattle is staying there as it’s only a slit second in the morning.
This is really confusing because at 3:02 of the video says "And that's where we come to the root cause of this vvti rattle this little pin over here which can sometimes wear out or be lazy to retract due to just carbon buildup". Correct me if I'm wrong but the pin is unlocked by oil pressure allowing it to Retract against spring pressure and it's spring pressure overcoming residual oil pressure that causes it to Extend out into the outer housing and lock. If it was lazy to retract then the spring pressure would be causing it to be Extended out against residual oil pressure and locked into the outer housing so it wouldn't or couldn't rattle? Also at 3:13 says "Now because this pin no longer engages with the housing (pin Extended out by spring psi into the outer housing into the locked position??) the input and output is free to move relative to each other especially when you turn off your car over night and all the oil pressure drains, there's no spring pressure forcing it to go back and click inside. When you turn on your car in the morning you're going to hear the input and output move relative to each other and that's what causes that rattle until it actually clicks in and engages for that one second it takes to build up oil pressure". Again this is really confusing because previously it was said the cause is the pin not engaging (extending out into the locked position because of carbon buildup) so why would it now engage (extend out and lock) at startup especially after it has rattled back and forth for the one second it takes to build oil pressure when it's the buildup of oil pressure that causes the pin to retract and unlocks the actuator?? My understanding of this system is the actuator should be locked when you shut the vehicle off so when you start it up after 6+ hours time that the oil has had to drain out of the actuator it won't rattle and it remains locked until either a certain rpm has been achieved like above 3000-3500 or heavy load placed onto the engine and then the ECM commands the oil control solenoid on to direct oil to unlock the pin and allows the relative movement between the input and output advancing the timing thus changing valve overlap on the intake side opening the intake valve sooner on the exhaust stroke. This system is discrete meaning it's either off (no intake valve advance) or on (intake valve advanced to one position only being 15' or 30' what have you due to the internal design of the input to output inside the actuator) and is not continuously variable. The question that I'm having difficulty with and yet to find a video that really explains the oil control valve and the flow of oil to and from the actuator vanes and locking pin in detail. Does the oil flow into and out of the vanes and to the pin at the same time or does it flow opposite to each other. So when you first start the car the oil control solenoid is off and by internal spring pressure allows oil to go into the vanes to dampen the relative movement between input and output when eventually commanded on by the ECM by rpm/load but not to the locking pin unlocking it until after the ECM has commanded the solenoid on by RPM/load achieved and then shuts the oil off to the vanes allowing the dampening and draining of oil from the vanes. If it works this way and it rattles on start up until oil psi has built up then once the oil psi has built up it wouldn't unlock the pin allowing the the input to move relative to the output at low rpm which isn't when it's supposed to be activated. This part of the system has yet to explained well in detail on any video.
I'm with you on trying to figure out how this is actually supposed to work. The pin definitely locks when you shut off the car. I know this cause I've opened up the actuator on the car a few times and it is always locked. So it has to be that the spring is too weak to keep it locked on startup.
Brilliant ! Very insightful and super helpful depth of knowledge in just five minutes ! Priceless ! Personal experience: I noticed the cold start-up rattling sound after I had jacked up the car to change out all the brakes (front and rear) and rear bearings. Initially thought it was only going to happen the one time due to oil displacement from jacking up the car, but it actually happens most of the time and this makes sense based on speedkar99's awesome educational video. Many thanks !!
Can I know where is the location of this oil supply line attached to Toyota Wish 2004 1AZ-ESE-ENGINE MODEL CBA-ANE11W-HWXQH. Couldn't locate the oil pipe line?
I just traded my 16 Benz for an 09 Corolla to have a cash car. I noticed this rattle and your video helped me understand the root cause. You did phenomenal at explaining everything to include the level of importance in getting it fixed. Awesome job 👏
Great video! I've heard that clackitty clack noise many times in our 2008 Highlander, which now has 220,000 miles on the clock. About 5 years ago when this started, I researched it and decided to try Motor Medic synthetic Motor Flush from my local O'Reilly's (I'm not trying to plug a specific product or vendor). Pour it in a warm engine, let it run for 5 minutes at idle (NO revving!) and change the oil. Worked like a charm! It cleaned off any varnish on the moving parts of the VVTi system and the noise stops for a number of months until it comes back and I have to do it again. It's a nasty noise as you know from this video, and it resounds throughout the neighborhood. It's unfortunate there isn't a more reliable design for this. Honestly, it sounds like your motor is about to blow up. During the warranty period of the car, we always had our Toyota dealer do the maintenance. After that I started doing the changes myself, and I soon discovered a gummy buildup on the underside of my oil cap. This led me to believe the dealer had been using garbage oil all those years, so I made sure to always use synthetic oil ever since. Synthetic oil doesn't make this problem go away, but I suppose it's possible it's delays the return a bit.
@@SilkyGSmooth Depending on how bad it is with your car, you may need to do this more than once. It worked on the first try for me, but I now do it every 2 or 3 oil changes. Good luck!
@@Ye-yz7cx Excellent question to which I WISH I knew the answer.... Fixing the VVTi system as a preventive measure would cost thousands as it's a fussy labor-intensive process project. I suppose if hundreds of thousands of people with Highlanders and the half dozen other vehicle with this motor started experiencing engine death then Toyota might do something about it.
@@InexplicableBill And at the same time, I got a recall for my 2011 Camry for a soft dash pad that would be replaced for free! SO why not something that is MUCH more important for a RECALL like the poorly designed TOYOTA VVT....
On any cars w/VVT's, I would avoid extended oil changes and follow the recommended oil weight for that engine. I see too many folks still trying to use 10-30 or 10-40 oil weight on these engines. VVT's LOVE and need clean oil to work properly.
Awesome video! Thanks for all the great content, you really explain the mechanics of components really well! Great humour too...hopefully your brother doesn't miss his old underwear and toothbrush😂
3:34 what do you mean build up oil pressure? at idle when just turned on. Isn't that pin only clicked in there by centrifugal force at idle or prior lock before car was turned on? doesn't it only have oil pressure in there when there is demand from the driver pressing the pedal much?
4TH AND FINAL UPDATE ! 07/04/2024 Rav now has 308k Miles. Took the plunge and drove it to the youtuber The Car Care Nut about 8 months ago and he replaced the solenoid and installed a new head cover gasket. Rattle stopped and chain / chain guides were looking solid and no where near being damaged. Gave the car to my mom and got a GS350 F-Sport. She will eventually have to worry about getting the block replaced for a new one since it burns oil and has an engine balance rod rattle that will one day cause some serious issues. Other than oil consumption, car still runs great with at least 50k trouble free miles ahead. 👍🏻 3rd update! 01/02/2023. Car now has 280k miles, rattle has not changed its duration, remains the same since 150k ish. My only concern would be one of the plastic guides falling off due to vibration and end up messing up the chain. Update since I saw your video for the first time!! I couldn’t find my original comments under someone else’s comment. When I noticed the noise, my 11’ Rav with the 4cyl had 130k miles. Now it has 248k and has not changed (noise lasts about 2 seconds then goes away). I’ve learned to live with it and I’m getting my money’s worth out of this car. Really seems like it doesn’t damage the engine.
@@manueltalavera7877 Hey! These cars are known for this noise. My Rav now has 280k miles. Still rattles when cold starting but still hasn’t changed in termos of duration.
@@manueltalavera7877 The cause for the rattle you mean? It’s explained in the video. It’s a pin that takes a second to lock in place due to oil sipping down to the bottom of the engine. Once it builds up pressure, pin locks and rattle stops.
Had this issue on my Camry as well except the noise lasted for a lot longer. Didn’t go away until I started driving. I changed the oil control valve and that fixed it.
Thank you! I have this rattling noise with my 2010 RAV4 and my 2012 Camry. Apparently it's a common problem but not a big issue. I appreciate the breakdown
What a bad design I have a Kia Venga 63 plate with an automatic transmission. After so many years I wonder how many years the engine will last. Even at 35 k am not too confident that the engine will last more than 150k.
@@speedkar99 Kia Venga is the name in the United Kingdom....Both petrol engines feature continuously variable valve timing, which means four-fifths of the 1.4’s maximum 101lb ft of torque is available from 1500rpm.
Thats true I just got a 06 scion tc with the VVTi engine and after blowing one of these engines while driving I was dialed into studying my engine and I found out that maintenence is your num1 priority and if you don’t and you let gunk build up in your engine it will leads to stuff like this. So I ran 90 dollar tribotex engine cleaning with nano tech which literally almost after driving like 20 miles felt a huge difference from a struggling engine to a smooth engine. I flushed the tranny and notices a major difference in that and also in the process of running a engine fuel system cleaner so that all supporting components are running optimally and i dint have to worry about blowing an engine. And also I do every 3k oil changes rather then 5k
Changed this dephaser pulley on my renault intake shaft. Now after 7 years, hearing this noise again some times.. Maybe on next timing maintenance will change it again
Does this apply to Honda? My Si has been doing this randomly for about 3 years in the winter. Has not gotten worse, and does not do it every cold start in the winter even if some days are colder than others
Bingo ! That sound occurs with a dry start due to oil draining back down in the pan. A high quality oil filter will have an anti-drain back valve to help prevent this
@@speedkar99 I learned a lot about American politics. That experience had a fruit. I am now working for US DoD Japan quarter. Americans are fair and square, easy to work with. I am 79 and long flight is hard for me.
@@tehgibbles8314 I just bought a 2014 Honda crv 2 days ago never listen to this rattle noise until today. When I bought the car was already on so no rattle noise cad was warmed.I have been looking in the internet and there is a lot of people complaining about this issue and they have changed the VTC actuator and months later they have the same rattle noise when is cold. If we do nothing about it can this eventually damage the engine or not?
Dude is smart but failed to mention that if vtc actuator fails will eventually cause driveability issues with engine timing and engine timing is critical when they cam damage valves if not timed correctly
@@Andrea-rg9tr I forget what code it is but when the vtc actuator actually fails it will set a check engine light. And yes it will cause drivability issues when it does fail.
Thanks. I was able to returned the CRV back to the dealership I made a big deal they didnt want me there making a big fuss so they gave me my money back. I loved tr CRV though if it wasn't for that issue. I'm not sure which small SUV to buy I dont trust Dealerships
Mazda cx7 timing sprocket blew that pin cuz of bad heat treatment. So ya in my case, had to tear engine apart to replace...also replaced timing n oil pump chains while I was at it
This happens in a lot of Honda engines as well. Stealership quoted $600 to replace. Bought the OEM part off eBay, then had a backyard mechanic (works as professional mechanic for day job) do the work. Altogether spent about $350.
I have a 2012 Toyota Corolla S Making This Noise When On Cold Start Or When Sitting for Hours Is It A Problem to Be Concerned About My Mileage Is 116,920 Please Let Me Know I’m Losing Sleep Over It 😢
This is a design flaw. As you mention at 3:22 there's no spring pressure to force the cam to return to the startup position when the oil drains away. They should get rid of that lockpin and instead have a return spring system, like a clockspring, alongside the oil chambers. No more rattle, and no more lockpin wear. That's my solution.
Sounds good. I also thought that sound occurs with a dry start due to oil draining back down in the pan. A high quality oil filter will have an anti-drain back valve to help prevent this. What do you think?
Who cares-my favorite car is my '68 Nova street pro, my daily is a 2008 Avenger- after daily dies I WILL NEVER BUY ANOTHER CAR WITH A COMPUTER. I repair cars for a living and I went thru HELL to get my Dodge to pass stupid emissions..So fed up with the UNNECESSARY COMPLICATED GARBAGE late model cars have..screw VVT- If it ain't brakes or a strut or bearing, take it somewhere Else!!👎
My 2007 lexis is250 does the same noise every morning or could start. What could it happen if I don't fix it??? I'm thinking to fixing by myself but I'm little scared 😱. Any advice???!!!
I fixed this problem by cleaning the little mesh filters that lead to the solenoids. They sludge up on these Toyota engines and then you don't have enough oil pressure at the solenoids. Very easy and FREE fix
maybe the wrong oil was used, 5W- 30, is correct, for toyota echo 2005, with VVT-I, the oil numbers are more important than ever before, a further thought, metal wears when under LOAD, so what is the Load action here ? turning off the engine, and oil presures dropping - NO, engine stopping-not resetting the lock postion before oil pressure drops- NO, the LOCK is held at idle and low revs, - the most retarded timing setting, why does the lock not reset at off? there is no homing spring ? nor homing oil pressure from the plunger controller, the key turns off the engine, but maybe the keys should signal the engine to reset and then turn off- .... any ideas ?
my 2019 rx350 has 15k miles. on a cold start, theres a slight rattle that sounds like thin metal hitting eachother that gets louder in reverse but goes away when the engine warms up. the dealership cannot find it. can you please lmk if you know what it is? it goes away in drive too. thank you so much. im very desperate.
There's a real danger that the extra abuse those vanes are taking causes one of them to fail, jam and grenade the engine. It can also cause excess wear on the chain guides and particles from the guide can lead to the oil gallery becoming blocked. A little rattle at startup is ok, but if it begins to become louder or longer, fix it.
Hi SpeedKar, THANK YOU VERY MUCH INDEED, I have a UK 2007 Lexus GS300 with exactly the same rattle, which started around 50,000 miles and has caused me a great deal of concern up to seeing your video, (now has 61,000 miles I do not drive a lot at 78 years old). Someone told me it might be the timing chain, but the rattle is identical to your example on the tube. Thank you again you have relieved me no end. VERY GOOD Video, straight to the point - I have just now SUBSCRIBED - WELL DONE!!
Hello my friend, i changed the timing kit and i still hear this rattle noise once i start the engine what could it be ? And the km is like 110 K what kind of oil should i use ? Thank u
So would it ever get to the point where the VVTI fails completely and no longer engages to default correctly? I'm guessing the engine would run very poorly and probably throw codes
My oil pump pick up tube screen was 70% cloggrd from one of the balancer shaft fiber gears wearing over time. Slowly clogged the pick up tube and eventually reduced the oil flow or pressure so much it did the rattle on cold start. The balance shaft became disengaged from the crankshaft becaise of this initial low oil pressure. Symptom was the cold srart rattle but also increased engine vibration at higher rpms and when going to passing gear tpm levels.
Do 5 short Oil Change Intervals at 500 miles each. The detergent additive pack on any synthetic SN oil can dissolve the carbon buildups and greatly alleviate the problem.
@@captmaverickable I also did a couple 1000 mile oil changes and used Lucas engine cleaner, 1 ounce per quart. Cleans those little oil holes some. Engine has been pretty quiet. Some say synthetic forms crystals in engine. They need dissolved.
turns out, this is still an issue on 2023 models. i have a '23 JDM noah hybrid with the 1.8 vvti 4 cyl with less than 10,000km on it, and its made this sound 3 times so far since the temps started going down. picked the car up in July new, and did not hear the sound until early november when temps went down into the 30's. is this issue possibly one reason why toyota went to a 0W-16 oil? this stuff is super thin. Going to try pushing the start button without pressing the brake to allow all of the accessories to power up then after a few seconds, start the engine to see if that stops the cold engine noise.
@@speedkar99 i have only been able to catch the sound from inside the cabin on my traffic cam. i havent been able to reproduce it consistently enough to catch it while the hood is open. from inside, is sounds sort of like the fan was momentarily hitting the shroud. this morning, i used the remote starter with the hood open, temps were in the 20's but the sound didnt appear. its def a very odd sound. th-cam.com/video/wMsh7QVFTQ0/w-d-xo.html
Dude you're such an amazing mechanic. I wanna see you, Scotty Kilmer and Chrisfix go head to head working on an engine. I think you'd take em both out.
i have lexus is250 v6 and had that rattle noise happen literally few times, I gues its similiar engine to that v6 in that video? I guess it notghint o really worry about then
That's why we should keep 5k miles oil change interval and used high quality engine oil. 0w20 in the newer Toyota with 10k miles oil change interval may be the culprit too. Some people went to cheap lube with cheap oil and still do 10k miles OCI without using full synthetic oil.
@@tajituck888 I call BS on that. no reason for that pin not to have easy movement every single time if it's all clean in there from 5-7k miles full synthetic oil changes
@@hostilityy its not only pin movement. There is a spring under this pin that pushes the pin to a hole. When this spring is tired, then its not 100% that pin will be locked in a hole
Oil changes are underrated. My lubrication system video gets into the crevasses of where oil travels in the engine. Once you understand it's vast functions, you can no longer overlook it's importance.
Minor correction. The pin is to lock the actuator in place when the engine is off. Oil pressure builds up on the control side, through the solenoid, then unlocks the pin. When the solenoid has pressure, it has control of the actuator.
"Brothers old underwear". You're game, good thing you wore gloves.
Haha gloves for underwear
Brothers toothbrush 😄😄
😂😂😂😂😂😂😂 brothers old underwear
@@speedkar99 I take it your brother is always late in the morning to get out the door since he has to look for his items.
😂😂😂😂😂😂😂I'm speechless...he said broz old tantarantemz/ drawz...#imdone
All I did was change my VVT sensors and it seems to build up pressure instantly. No more noise. 180 dollar fix. Well worth it. I was at 145,000 miles.
Good to know. Maybe the screens were clogged. What car?
"going to use a piece of my brother's old underwear", can I use my wife's old underwear instead? I don't speak to my brother anymore.
Racist!
Tiger Trail what?
@@tigertrail3361 ?
@@tigertrail3361 ;-)
It doesn't sound like he does either to be honest.
Oh great content. I LIKE the way you go straight to the point. Not like other youtubers who beat about the bush to make a 6-minute-worth of content go for over 20 minutes with many uuuhuuu...ooohhhooo.....mmmmmhhhh....eeeehhhheeee.....and many unrelated stories about the hare and the tortoise going to the market to buy groceries.
Very good job and good flow of content.
How do you know all this stuff though?
Thanks I'm glad you like my video style. I research online and learn as I take things apart.
glad the rhythm of his English is probably much like his Spanish. Easy on the ears.
Yes exactly. If it were other TH-cam channels they will give a 5 day lecture about the history of VVT and the inventor and his/her upbringing,about their parents and their parent's hobbies. This is much better to the point and short and simple👍
Or they would show a montage of themselves playing with their cat, drinking iced coffee, never getting to the point.
you are SO SPOT ON, I really hate the You Tube vids that do not get to the point as you have said. I just watched a video where he didn't even got to point until eleven out of 16 minuttes into the video
Man if your brother wasn't there to help you with all his stuff!!
He literally became all the toolbox needed for the job.
My wife's CRV had the same noise, so I sold it to my brother-in-law.
I almost bought my mother in laws crv had the same problem. But she only changed her oil based on the oil life monitor and I’m pretty sure that’s why she had that cold rattle.
😂😂😂
😂
🤣🤣🤣
Thanks for the tip. Good looking out.
Wow! After years of a muddled understanding on how this VVT system works, your video has clarified for me how this system operates. Thank you. Well done. 🙂👍🏼
love this RAW content no BS straight into the point attitude.
Colgate now what’s going ? Oral-b dropped out of sponsorship?
No, his brother ran out of oral-b
Nima Jafari 😂
Oral B is my wife's toothbrush.
Colgate is my brothers
speedkar99 hope not ur ex wife now, i won't be happy if my wife takes my toothbrush to clean the car
This is the sound of how you get to 500,000kms.+💙😊
Here the trick I use to not rattle at next start. When your done driving the car , park it and let it idle for 3 minutes. At your next start it shouldn't rattle. It's been working for me .
Tried that. Didn't work
@@wilsonemeka1833 yes it stopped working for me too. The best you could do to minimize the sound is push the start button and let it crank but push it again b4 it starts so it could shut off, then just push it to start again normally and by then you have some more oil circulated 😂 screw it theres no way around it man. Its gana rattle. Car still runs good tho
@@godsarmy3450😅
U 👍are good
It's nice to know this isn't a critical issue. As long as it works and you're not getting stuck in advanced or late timing and screwing up your hp and mileage, nothing really to worry about. I do see auto shop scam material here though. An expensive fix to repair something that isn't really broken.
Will go over 200,000
So it won't ruin my 2009 Pontiac vibe and leave me stranded if I never fix it?
@@DragonSailor-Hooah common issue. i have a 2009 aswell. i have heard of people running the car for years with VVT rattle. no problems. and if fixed it can come back still..
@@Jalopymediai dont know if this is true but I swear I've heard that there's a chance that if you have the vvti rattle on a Toyota, the part or spring could eventually come loose and that would be bad to have a loose part inside the engine. But I'd look into that before really worrying about it.
Honda Civic reference - Nailed It.
Zoooooom
...fart....
4:40 😂 Straight pipe Honda Civic
I love your videos. You truly take teaching to the next level by not only telling your viewers what is happening, but actually showing them. Thanks
Glad you enjoy my video style
At the end of the day your brother made this video possible. He gave you the proper tools to explain very well about the rattle. His used underware and tooth brush. Great video very well explained and very funny also!.
My brother 🤣
I remember the old days when I over torque transmission oil pan broke 1 bolt,, bring to transmission shop .
You know who I blame
My........ brother
🤣
You are a lifesaver. Thank you for the info! Had been searching for info on that rattle for like a year now
You are welcome.
I just replaced the cam gear on my ‘13 Camry , the new one also rattles 😳🤦♂️ less than the old one but is noisy when started in the morning ☹️help please 🙏
Well i've got over 300k on my 08 Corolla now. I think I'll just Learn to embrace this noise as comforting and familiar sound. Almost like the smell of an old leather jacket.
2008 Scion XD which has a VVT engine and rattles just like you show in the video. Will it cause a sudden failure and danger to me or is it ok to drive a lot longer?
You can drive it but eventually you'll get timing chain related codes
This has been bothering me for years and I am not even a Toyota owner. Thank you so much for allowing me to sound really smart in front of my neighbors and family members who own Toyotas on Zoom meeting even all I could say was "there is a pin inside the engine that is making the noise..." before I lost them completely.
Glad you found the video helpful and can visually see where the sound is coming from.
I got recommended this video just when I was about to give up on finding a solution to my cars rattling noise. Thank you so much I am officially subscribed
Glad it helped
@@speedkar99 my 2007 chysler 300 is making the same noise ?
That same exact noise
My '09 Pontiac Vibe (1.8L Toyota engine) does this. I've found that (on cold mornings) if I turn on the ignition and wait 5 or 6 seconds before starting then the rattle doesn't happen.
Exactly the same thing happens in my 2005 1.8 corolla
I'm not sure how this channel doesnt have more subscribers...
Your ability to explain and teach is awesome...!
I really love your videos , straight to the point . Hope your channel make it big
Have a Jeep Cherokee 3.2. 59k miles. It makes that noise at start up. Most say it’s the rocker arms failing and wearing down the cam lobes problem. But it’s not a constant ticking it’s just start up. Can this also be VVT actuator lock pins on the 3.2? If yes should I try 5W30 instead of spec 5W20 for added pressure? Or is it better to go to a 0W for faster flow?
Very interesting. Thank you for the information. Amazed at how the internal combustion got so complicated. I enjoyed your video.
A house brand engine oil flush fixed this rattle on my 110K+ Camry. I ran it a bit longer than intended (2 days) before changing oil/filter because of weather, but just wanted to mention because it saved me from the "damn that doesn't sound good" anxiety every morning, even though it's probably not that big a deal as you said
can you go into more detail please
Yes. Please more details so we can replicate.
I can’t comment for this guy but I used an oil cleaner (MMO) mixed with Seafoam for a mere 15 minutes before draining out the oil and eliminated the clashing noise. Worth a try.
My Lexus is300h hybrid 2014 with 60k on it every morning, always serviced on time with 0W20 oil, and you know what the rattle is staying there as it’s only a slit second in the morning.
I hope your brother is aware that you’re finding uses for his stuff!!! 😂
The ‘ combustion engine ‘ is an amazing piece of engineering , isn’t it?!
i cant believe how amazing it is... especially those rotary engines... that thing looks like it is from outer space
Can you hear that quietness? It‘s the sound of one million whiners on the internet suddenly shutting up.
Well done!
This is really confusing because at 3:02 of the video says "And that's where we come to the root cause of this vvti rattle this little pin over here which can sometimes wear out or be lazy to retract due to just carbon buildup". Correct me if I'm wrong but the pin is unlocked by oil pressure allowing it to Retract against spring pressure and it's spring pressure overcoming residual oil pressure that causes it to Extend out into the outer housing and lock. If it was lazy to retract then the spring pressure would be causing it to be Extended out against residual oil pressure and locked into the outer housing so it wouldn't or couldn't rattle? Also at 3:13 says "Now because this pin no longer engages with the housing (pin Extended out by spring psi into the outer housing into the locked position??) the input and output is free to move relative to each other especially when you turn off your car over night and all the oil pressure drains, there's no spring pressure forcing it to go back and click inside. When you turn on your car in the morning you're going to hear the input and output move relative to each other and that's what causes that rattle until it actually clicks in and engages for that one second it takes to build up oil pressure". Again this is really confusing because previously it was said the cause is the pin not engaging (extending out into the locked position because of carbon buildup) so why would it now engage (extend out and lock) at startup especially after it has rattled back and forth for the one second it takes to build oil pressure when it's the buildup of oil pressure that causes the pin to retract and unlocks the actuator?? My understanding of this system is the actuator should be locked when you shut the vehicle off so when you start it up after 6+ hours time that the oil has had to drain out of the actuator it won't rattle and it remains locked until either a certain rpm has been achieved like above 3000-3500 or heavy load placed onto the engine and then the ECM commands the oil control solenoid on to direct oil to unlock the pin and allows the relative movement between the input and output advancing the timing thus changing valve overlap on the intake side opening the intake valve sooner on the exhaust stroke. This system is discrete meaning it's either off (no intake valve advance) or on (intake valve advanced to one position only being 15' or 30' what have you due to the internal design of the input to output inside the actuator) and is not continuously variable. The question that I'm having difficulty with and yet to find a video that really explains the oil control valve and the flow of oil to and from the actuator vanes and locking pin in detail. Does the oil flow into and out of the vanes and to the pin at the same time or does it flow opposite to each other. So when you first start the car the oil control solenoid is off and by internal spring pressure allows oil to go into the vanes to dampen the relative movement between input and output when eventually commanded on by the ECM by rpm/load but not to the locking pin unlocking it until after the ECM has commanded the solenoid on by RPM/load achieved and then shuts the oil off to the vanes allowing the dampening and draining of oil from the vanes. If it works this way and it rattles on start up until oil psi has built up then once the oil psi has built up it wouldn't unlock the pin allowing the the input to move relative to the output at low rpm which isn't when it's supposed to be activated. This part of the system has yet to explained well in detail on any video.
I'm with you on trying to figure out how this is actually supposed to work. The pin definitely locks when you shut off the car. I know this cause I've opened up the actuator on the car a few times and it is always locked. So it has to be that the spring is too weak to keep it locked on startup.
Brilliant ! Very insightful and super helpful depth of knowledge in just five minutes ! Priceless !
Personal experience: I noticed the cold start-up rattling sound after I had jacked up the car to change out all the brakes (front and rear) and rear bearings. Initially thought it was only going to happen the one time due to oil displacement from jacking up the car, but it actually happens most of the time and this makes sense based on speedkar99's awesome educational video. Many thanks !!
Can I know where is the location of this oil supply line attached to Toyota Wish 2004 1AZ-ESE-ENGINE MODEL CBA-ANE11W-HWXQH. Couldn't locate the oil pipe line?
I just traded my 16 Benz for an 09 Corolla to have a cash car. I noticed this rattle and your video helped me understand the root cause. You did phenomenal at explaining everything to include the level of importance in getting it fixed. Awesome job 👏
How much did it cost you?
Так тойота же не ломается?)) ухаха
Couldn’t have said it beyter
Well done my brather
Great video! I've heard that clackitty clack noise many times in our 2008 Highlander, which now has 220,000 miles on the clock. About 5 years ago when this started, I researched it and decided to try Motor Medic synthetic Motor Flush from my local O'Reilly's (I'm not trying to plug a specific product or vendor). Pour it in a warm engine, let it run for 5 minutes at idle (NO revving!) and change the oil. Worked like a charm! It cleaned off any varnish on the moving parts of the VVTi system and the noise stops for a number of months until it comes back and I have to do it again. It's a nasty noise as you know from this video, and it resounds throughout the neighborhood. It's unfortunate there isn't a more reliable design for this. Honestly, it sounds like your motor is about to blow up. During the warranty period of the car, we always had our Toyota dealer do the maintenance. After that I started doing the changes myself, and I soon discovered a gummy buildup on the underside of my oil cap. This led me to believe the dealer had been using garbage oil all those years, so I made sure to always use synthetic oil ever since. Synthetic oil doesn't make this problem go away, but I suppose it's possible it's delays the return a bit.
Thanks, I'll try that also
@@SilkyGSmooth Depending on how bad it is with your car, you may need to do this more than once. It worked on the first try for me, but I now do it every 2 or 3 oil changes. Good luck!
What if you don’t do anything will you damage anything in the long run?
@@Ye-yz7cx Excellent question to which I WISH I knew the answer.... Fixing the VVTi system as a preventive measure would cost thousands as it's a fussy labor-intensive process project. I suppose if hundreds of thousands of people with Highlanders and the half dozen other vehicle with this motor started experiencing engine death then Toyota might do something about it.
@@InexplicableBill And at the same time, I got a recall for my 2011 Camry for a soft dash pad that would be replaced for free! SO why not something that is MUCH more important for a RECALL like the poorly designed TOYOTA VVT....
On any cars w/VVT's, I would avoid extended oil changes and follow the recommended oil weight for that engine. I see too many folks still trying to use 10-30 or 10-40 oil weight on these engines. VVT's LOVE and need clean oil to work properly.
Que aceite puede llevar un toyota corolla 2014 automático 1.8
@@marvinumanzorzuniga79 Rebisa el manual del dueno o la tapa del aceite.
@@marvinumanzorzuniga79 creo que 5-20
Well done 300,000kms here we go. Get her hot!
Awesome video! Thanks for all the great content, you really explain the mechanics of components really well! Great humour too...hopefully your brother doesn't miss his old underwear and toothbrush😂
3:34 what do you mean build up oil pressure? at idle when just turned on. Isn't that pin only clicked in there by centrifugal force at idle or prior lock before car was turned on? doesn't it only have oil pressure in there when there is demand from the driver pressing the pedal much?
4TH AND FINAL UPDATE ! 07/04/2024
Rav now has 308k Miles. Took the plunge and drove it to the youtuber The Car Care Nut about 8 months ago and he replaced the solenoid and installed a new head cover gasket. Rattle stopped and chain / chain guides were looking solid and no where near being damaged. Gave the car to my mom and got a GS350 F-Sport. She will eventually have to worry about getting the block replaced for a new one since it burns oil and has an engine balance rod rattle that will one day cause some serious issues. Other than oil consumption, car still runs great with at least 50k trouble free miles ahead. 👍🏻
3rd update! 01/02/2023. Car now has 280k miles, rattle has not changed its duration, remains the same since 150k ish. My only concern would be one of the plastic guides falling off due to vibration and end up messing up the chain.
Update since I saw your video for the first time!! I couldn’t find my original comments under someone else’s comment. When I noticed the noise, my 11’ Rav with the 4cyl had 130k miles. Now it has 248k and has not changed (noise lasts about 2 seconds then goes away). I’ve learned to live with it and I’m getting my money’s worth out of this car. Really seems like it doesn’t damage the engine.
Dude my rav4 makes that same noise, lol not to this extent but I’m taking it tomorrow to Firestone.
@@manueltalavera7877 Hey! These cars are known for this noise. My Rav now has 280k miles. Still rattles when cold starting but still hasn’t changed in termos of duration.
@@manueltalavera7877 If you have the 4 cyl, I wouldn’t stress about it
@@thegravitx ohh okay, but what is the cause of it ? Ima still get it diagnosed & see what’s wrong with it, & yeah I also have the 4cyl
@@manueltalavera7877 The cause for the rattle you mean? It’s explained in the video. It’s a pin that takes a second to lock in place due to oil sipping down to the bottom of the engine. Once it builds up pressure, pin locks and rattle stops.
Had this issue on my Camry as well except the noise lasted for a lot longer. Didn’t go away until I started driving. I changed the oil control valve and that fixed it.
Thank you! I have this rattling noise with my 2010 RAV4 and my 2012 Camry. Apparently it's a common problem but not a big issue. I appreciate the breakdown
Great to hear!
i knew it was harmless.. you saved us 1500 of unnecessary repair ..
Nice
@@speedkar99 Hi do you know if is harmless on Vq35de Nissan 3.5 v6 engine to ?
What a bad design I have a Kia Venga 63 plate with an automatic transmission. After so many years I wonder how many years the engine will last. Even at 35 k am not too confident that the engine will last more than 150k.
What's a Venga?
@@speedkar99 Kia Venga is the name in the United Kingdom....Both petrol engines feature continuously variable valve timing, which means four-fifths of the 1.4’s maximum 101lb ft of torque is available from 1500rpm.
Dirty engine internals. I would have tried more frequent oil changes before taking whole engine out.
Yea too bad the previous owner didn't
Both Toyota and Honda owe thousands of us free work on our engines. Bad design and manufacturing
Should it be free?
@@speedkar99 heck yeah! They new it was an issue and still is to this day
your brother must be like "where did i put it, i thought it was right here"
This model is the most reliable engine. When you have VVTI noise, it's a maintenance problem, not a design flaw.
Interesting way to put it ..
Thats true I just got a 06 scion tc with the VVTi engine and after blowing one of these engines while driving I was dialed into studying my engine and I found out that maintenence is your num1 priority and if you don’t and you let gunk build up in your engine it will leads to stuff like this. So I ran 90 dollar tribotex engine cleaning with nano tech which literally almost after driving like 20 miles felt a huge difference from a struggling engine to a smooth engine. I flushed the tranny and notices a major difference in that and also in the process of running a engine fuel system cleaner so that all supporting components are running optimally and i dint have to worry about blowing an engine. And also I do every 3k oil changes rather then 5k
Changed this dephaser pulley on my renault intake shaft. Now after 7 years, hearing this noise again some times.. Maybe on next timing maintenance will change it again
What vehicle?
@@speedkar99 renault megane 2 with 1.6 engine
Does this apply to Honda? My Si has been doing this randomly for about 3 years in the winter. Has not gotten worse, and does not do it every cold start in the winter even if some days are colder than others
Yes
@@speedkar99 Much appreciated
Great job getting to the point and explaining the problem clearly.
Starting by using OEM toyota oil filters will help. Keeps oil from draining back to pan overnight.
Bingo ! That sound occurs with a dry start due to oil draining back down in the pan. A high quality oil filter will have an anti-drain back valve to help prevent this
regular oil changes with a good synthetic oil will help keep the mechanism clean and reduce the chance of sticking.
Good theory
The best! I was a superintendent at TOYOTA KY plant. Thank you my bro.
Nice. How was it working at TMMK?
@@speedkar99 I learned a lot about American politics. That experience had a fruit. I am now working for US DoD Japan quarter. Americans are fair and square, easy to work with. I am 79 and long flight is hard for me.
Thanks man was looking for a real explanation for this everywhere.
Glad it helped
Exact same noise on my 2014 Honda CRV
Vtc actuator is your culprit. My crv does the same thing lol. Honda has a tsb on it. It effects pretty much all their 2.4 engines
@@tehgibbles8314 I just bought a 2014 Honda crv 2 days ago never listen to this rattle noise until today. When I bought the car was already on so no rattle noise cad was warmed.I have been looking in the internet and there is a lot of people complaining about this issue and they have changed the VTC actuator and months later they have the same rattle noise when is cold.
If we do nothing about it can this eventually damage the engine or not?
Dude is smart but failed to mention that if vtc actuator fails will eventually cause driveability issues with engine timing and engine timing is critical when they cam damage valves if not timed correctly
@@Andrea-rg9tr I forget what code it is but when the vtc actuator actually fails it will set a check engine light. And yes it will cause drivability issues when it does fail.
Thanks. I was able to returned the CRV back to the dealership I made a big deal they didnt want me there making a big fuss so they gave me my money back. I loved tr CRV though if it wasn't for that issue. I'm not sure which small SUV to buy I dont trust Dealerships
Mazda cx7 timing sprocket blew that pin cuz of bad heat treatment. So ya in my case, had to tear engine apart to replace...also replaced timing n oil pump chains while I was at it
This happens in a lot of Honda engines as well. Stealership quoted $600 to replace. Bought the OEM part off eBay, then had a backyard mechanic (works as professional mechanic for day job) do the work. Altogether spent about $350.
I have a 2012 Toyota Corolla S Making This Noise When On Cold Start Or When Sitting for Hours Is It A Problem to Be Concerned About My Mileage Is 116,920 Please Let Me Know I’m Losing Sleep Over It 😢
Not a big issue. Eventually it'll ha w to be replaced
This is a design flaw. As you mention at 3:22 there's no spring pressure to force the cam to return to the startup position when the oil drains away. They should get rid of that lockpin and instead have a return spring system, like a clockspring, alongside the oil chambers. No more rattle, and no more lockpin wear. That's my solution.
Sounds good. I also thought that sound occurs with a dry start due to oil draining back down in the pan. A high quality oil filter will have an anti-drain back valve to help prevent this. What do you think?
Yes some engines have that giant spring on the outside. Like bmw vanos
Who cares-my favorite car is my '68 Nova street pro, my daily is a 2008 Avenger- after daily dies I WILL NEVER BUY ANOTHER CAR WITH A COMPUTER. I repair cars for a living and I went thru HELL to get my Dodge to pass stupid emissions..So fed up with the UNNECESSARY COMPLICATED GARBAGE late model cars have..screw VVT- If it ain't brakes or a strut or bearing, take it somewhere Else!!👎
I'm lucky they got rid of emissions testing here in Ontario
Brother: WHERE'S MY SHORTS?"
I had the vvti rattle in my 2007 Corolla on cold start up, then i switched to 0W-30 Mobil 1 FS oil. Never had the problem again.
What oil were you using before? Usually a thicker oil helps
Great video! My VW was doing the same noise. An oil change seems to have solved the problem now 👍
That's temporary, the noise will return!
Used to own a VW, it could just be the sound of the valve slamming into the cylinder head, which is a normal sound on VW engines
My 2007 lexis is250 does the same noise every morning or could start. What could it happen if I don't fix it???
I'm thinking to fixing by myself but I'm little scared 😱.
Any advice???!!!
Just make sure it's filled up with oil and you should be good for a while
I fixed this problem by cleaning the little mesh filters that lead to the solenoids. They sludge up on these Toyota engines and then you don't have enough oil pressure at the solenoids. Very easy and FREE fix
How do you clean them do you have to take the engine apart
Reply please
@@perrypearce8185 m.th-cam.com/video/tTiEOcuQhXQ/w-d-xo.html
Working on your car using your brothers underwear and toothbrush. LEGEND
I must use what I have available
Bro that tooth brush looks exactly like mine
Edit: wait a minute.....
maybe the wrong oil was used, 5W- 30, is correct, for toyota echo 2005, with VVT-I, the oil numbers are more important than ever before, a further thought, metal wears when under LOAD, so what is the Load action here ? turning off the engine, and oil presures dropping - NO, engine stopping-not resetting the lock postion before oil pressure drops- NO, the LOCK is held at idle and low revs, - the most retarded timing setting, why does the lock not reset at off? there is no homing spring ? nor homing oil pressure from the plunger controller, the key turns off the engine, but maybe the keys should signal the engine to reset and then turn off- .... any ideas ?
Wear
This video was a gem, thank you.
My 06 Lexus IS250 has this issue but after watching this video, I think I'll learn to live with it
Seems like a common problem with the Toyotas
My 06 is 250 does the same thing lol, is your car still running?
@@xls4750 yep still going strong!
Is it alright to keep it. Mine completed 130ks. If not treated ? Will it damage engine
@@HarpreetSingh-sl7zfyou still deal with the issue ?
my 2019 rx350 has 15k miles. on a cold start, theres a slight rattle that sounds like thin metal hitting eachother that gets louder in reverse but goes away when the engine warms up. the dealership cannot find it. can you please lmk if you know what it is? it goes away in drive too. thank you so much. im very desperate.
Could be an exhaust shield
key for being a mechanic: always have a brother who has spare underwear and toothbrushes
There's a real danger that the extra abuse those vanes are taking causes one of them to fail, jam and grenade the engine. It can also cause excess wear on the chain guides and particles from the guide can lead to the oil gallery becoming blocked. A little rattle at startup is ok, but if it begins to become louder or longer, fix it.
Agreed.
Hi SpeedKar, THANK YOU VERY MUCH INDEED, I have a UK 2007 Lexus GS300 with exactly the same rattle, which started around 50,000 miles and has caused me a great deal of concern up to seeing your video, (now has 61,000 miles I do not drive a lot at 78 years old). Someone told me it might be the timing chain, but the rattle is identical to your example on the tube. Thank you again you have relieved me no end. VERY GOOD Video, straight to the point - I have just now SUBSCRIBED - WELL DONE!!
You are welcome
Hello my friend, i changed the timing kit and i still hear this rattle noise once i start the engine what could it be ? And the km is like 110 K what kind of oil should i use ? Thank u
5W30 or what is on the oil cap.
Were the VVT gears and tensioner changed or just the chain?
Thanks fore the vlog always good auto tech info love the humor as well .peace!
Thanks !
في حال وجود صوت في gear vvti, هل يمكن إصلاحه ام تبديله، وماسبب تلفه؟
Welcome
Damn I have the 3.5 Lexus engine
Me too
@@speedkar99 You mentioned some sort of recall for this Lexus engine. Is there any information on this? I can't seem to find it.
Good explanation about vvt engines. Feel for your brother though (underwear and toothbrush).😅
Thank you!
Great explanation.
Thanks
I have a 3.5 highlander do they have the same problème thanks
I would also like to know this. Is this the 3.5L eninge you are talking about (2GR-FE) where the bolts come off. Can anyone confirm this?
"... brother's old underwear" 🤣🤣🤣🤣 you're funny
So I don't have worry about the chain popping off. As long as the guides are in good condition.
They will be but once this gear fails it could total the engine.
So would it ever get to the point where the VVTI fails completely and no longer engages to default correctly? I'm guessing the engine would run very poorly and probably throw codes
It will lose oil pressure with time because of wear on inner walls and this will affect performance..
Yes it can really mess up timing at that point but only to the 15-20 degrees it's allowed to rotate
My oil pump pick up tube screen was 70% cloggrd from one of the balancer shaft fiber gears wearing over time. Slowly clogged the pick up tube and eventually reduced the oil flow or pressure so much it did the rattle on cold start. The balance shaft became disengaged from the crankshaft becaise of this initial low oil pressure. Symptom was the cold srart rattle but also increased engine vibration at higher rpms and when going to passing gear tpm levels.
Nice work, you are the first guy to give great detail on this issue. My 2016 2.5 Camry does the rattle. 5-30 Castrol magnetec oil helps a little.
Yes it's better than the 0w20 specified
Do 5 short Oil Change Intervals at 500 miles each. The detergent additive pack on any synthetic SN oil can dissolve the carbon buildups and greatly alleviate the problem.
Was about to ask if changing the oil weight could help. Thanks alot guys. Was googling this issue last year and now I finally found the answers
@@captmaverickable 500 or 5k
@@captmaverickable I also did a couple 1000 mile oil changes and used Lucas engine cleaner, 1 ounce per quart. Cleans those little oil holes some. Engine has been pretty quiet. Some say synthetic forms crystals in engine. They need dissolved.
turns out, this is still an issue on 2023 models. i have a '23 JDM noah hybrid with the 1.8 vvti 4 cyl with less than 10,000km on it, and its made this sound 3 times so far since the temps started going down. picked the car up in July new, and did not hear the sound until early november when temps went down into the 30's. is this issue possibly one reason why toyota went to a 0W-16 oil? this stuff is super thin.
Going to try pushing the start button without pressing the brake to allow all of the accessories to power up then after a few seconds, start the engine to see if that stops the cold engine noise.
Already!
@@speedkar99 i have only been able to catch the sound from inside the cabin on my traffic cam. i havent been able to reproduce it consistently enough to catch it while the hood is open. from inside, is sounds sort of like the fan was momentarily hitting the shroud. this morning, i used the remote starter with the hood open, temps were in the 20's but the sound didnt appear. its def a very odd sound.
th-cam.com/video/wMsh7QVFTQ0/w-d-xo.html
Thanks my freind. I hope you replaced your Brothers underware and tooth brush back where you got them.
What they don't know won't hurt them
Dude you're such an amazing mechanic. I wanna see you, Scotty Kilmer and Chrisfix go head to head working on an engine. I think you'd take em both out.
I'd love to see them all working Together like a Team, on a big Car problem, probably be scary fast!
i have lexus is250 v6 and had that rattle noise happen literally few times, I gues its similiar engine to that v6 in that video? I guess it notghint o really worry about then
Yes. But check the recall they had for the vvt gear
That's why we should keep 5k miles oil change interval and used high quality engine oil. 0w20 in the newer Toyota with 10k miles oil change interval may be the culprit too. Some people went to cheap lube with cheap oil and still do 10k miles OCI without using full synthetic oil.
Agreed but it's more of a design issue as well since these things will eventually wear no matter how you change oil
@@speedkar99 these problems started since toyota change oil change interval to 10k / 1 year from 5k/6 months
Nicely, explained. Despite of my minimal understanding of car's engines, your video made it easy to understand. Subscribed and thumbs up!
The luster and failure of engineering!
Just build 4 cylinder OHV engine with cast iron block and head and it will last forever
Would this be a more serious issue if it was a timing chain instead of a gear?
Yes because it could jump timing
Never change lol
could a series of engine flushes clean the locking pin?
Unlikely.
EASIER TO CHANGE THE MOTOR BUT ILL TRY THIS FIRST NEXT TIME LMAO;)
Oil change is temporary
I have a sienna with this problem currently. I have changed my oil at the 5k mark every single time for the last 10 or so changes. It persists.
@@CatsNChickens did you buy it new? do you know the previous owner's oil change history?
@@hostilityy no, fair point.
Too bad most people aren't gonna take the engine apart just to get rid of a 1-2 second rattle lol.
Exactly. It's not worth it unless your removing timing and heads
One more reason to stay on top of regular oil changes.
yeah true but i think something like this is inevitable.
@@tajituck888 I call BS on that. no reason for that pin not to have easy movement every single time if it's all clean in there from 5-7k miles full synthetic oil changes
@@hostilityy its not only pin movement. There is a spring under this pin that pushes the pin to a hole. When this spring is tired, then its not 100% that pin will be locked in a hole
@@mutoryu Dear Kiril Ka: what you have said makes a lot of sense, thanks!
Oil changes are underrated.
My lubrication system video gets into the crevasses of where oil travels in the engine. Once you understand it's vast functions, you can no longer overlook it's importance.
Minor correction.
The pin is to lock the actuator in place when the engine is off.
Oil pressure builds up on the control side, through the solenoid, then unlocks the pin.
When the solenoid has pressure, it has control of the actuator.
Yes correct