Having noticed sludge at the main cam bearings in my 2003 Corolla, i carefully studied the VVTi and finally opened up the VVTi. The VVTi was full of sludge and the oil ports were literally clogged. Had to use several solvents to dissolve and clean the sludge. Use is made of universal socket wrench for the 5 headed bolts and torque wrench to fasten the bolts. Torquing the main bolt while keeping the lock-pin unlocked, was a little ticklish. Thanks to Toyota, the cam bearings were numbered and marked, without which i might have failed to reasseble the cam bearings properly as a DIYer. After purging the sludge from the VVTi, OCV and also from all the oil galleries, the Engine's performance improved like new. Thanks for your precise and detailed videos🙏
@@willg.5168 All of today's motor oils are detergent oils, except those specifically labeled 'non-detergent'. A synthetic doesn't 'flush out' an engine any better than any other motor oil.
you sir are a good man, im just a 25 year old from australia , and ive learnt so much in 22 mins from your video about just , the heart of how a car operates , its amazing to see the detail and in depth look on how gears and oil plays a part - thank you - liked & subscribed
I have a 2015 Camry that had the VVT gear rattle and Thanks to your video I knew what it was and that I needed to get it fixed ASAP- Thankfully I was able get it repaired under extended warranty before any damage was done! Thanks AMD ! Keep cranking out the great videos!
I think mine is starting to make that sound everytime in the morning in cold start. Can you do a follow up DIY on how to remove and install the new vvti please sir!
I drive an ‘09 Corolla with 112k miles. No major issues with it except the inevitable VVT-I rattle. Doesn’t burn or drip oil. Coming from domestic cars this is an unusual experience. Oil changed at 5k miles religiously or sooner whenever the car was driven less. Definitely will be looking into a parts swap soon. Especially since the engine can grenade (did not know this before). I want to keep the car even though it is turning 15 years old. Was thinking about trading it in, but I can’t bring myself to do it.
@@stevecooper7883 YESSS, my '09 2ZR-FE (Pontiac Vibe) sometimes does the "sneeze" - which is completely different from the rattle described here. I haven't been able to find out anything about what causes it. I'm wondering if it's something to do with the starter motor engaging/disengaging. I didn't know about the potential grenading. Hope it's not a big job to replace the cam controller.
In Australia Toyota have gone to a 12 month/15KM (9K MLS) oil change interval with the M20a engine. I purchased a new Corolla 3 months ago and raised this with the service department who told me all was good and not to worry. I always change my oil every 6 months or 8KMS whichever comes first. Now i'm retired it's six months that comes first, as I'm not out and about like I used to be. They say i'm just wasting my money doing that! I'm also a retired shop owner and agree with you 100% on your recommendation. So i'll continue to do my own oil change@6 months using genuine Toyota 0-16 and oil filter despite what they say. I'm with you brother on this one!
12 month 15k interval is perfectly fine. Just wasting good oil any earlier. My 11 year old Camry has always been serviced at 15k intervals it runs like a clock after 218000 kms. Toyota know their engines, they bench test them for hundreds of thousands of kms. If they schedule a certain service interval stick with it. Can void your warranty if its not adhered to.
If you are using a true fully synthetic oil of reputed quality.... And your engine is not old enough, say 150 k kms done..... Then you can take interval to 15k kms . I have a 06 nissan 2.2 dci (nissan japan) done around 200k kms. I use idemitsu 5/30 semi synthetic or shell synthetic before at 8-10k kms
Agree. I personally replace oil every 5,000km - just a simple DIY drain and fill. I change the oil filter typically 10,000km or 15,000km as per the user user manual (depending on the car). So far no issues with my vehicle’s engines with 250,000km+ on them. Never any major work on them (knock on wood). Spark Plugs, user serviceable wearable items, filters and regular quality fluid changes is all I’ve done. Toyota/Lexus vehicles are very robust so long as the basics are taken care of.
@@ezymarkz all companies earn the profit in after sales service and spare.... Hardly any significant margin on sale of new vehicle. Their aim is to recommend service intervals and service parts such that the engine runs without any major issue just enough long .... This just enough long is mostly warranty period and kms . Say 100k kms and 5 yrs . Moreover petrol engines hardly go bugy when timely maintained. Diesels need attention of service like interval and oil quality since they run sooty and stressed. But modern diesels are even robust. All in all its all a global propaganda about service and oils. Its purely dependent on how and where engine runs. A homely city driven car may go twice longer without service as compared to same car in taxi run. Still both are recommended same interval and oil . Why?
Hello, you saved my LX470 transmission. I did a drain and fill last week. Only 1.5 qt came out. It must have been the fluid level where I was getting the P2714 code. I added 3.5 qt and followed your instructions on checking fluid level. Now everything is back to normal. I’m planning to do one more drain and fill next week to get most of the old oil out. Thank you for your videos. MR
Hope you get this. Check out the video he posts on transmission oil changes. Essentially, you do not want super clean oil for transmissions. The clutches need a certain ammount of "debris" in the oil . Without it, they will slip . Sometimes badly. He also recommends to never , never flush a transmission. Hope your transmission is doing OK.
My 2005 Scion XB has a 1.5 L VVTi engine. No problems with 236,281 miles to-date. Very reliable Toyota engine. Love this car. Admire all the knowledge your channel is providing all of your subscribers. Keep up the excellent work.
@@lenardkareem5551 Yes the NZ series has VVT-i on intake cam....But there is almost ZERO issues as long it has been maintained every 5,000 miles (Doesn't Matter if Good Dino or ULTRA Synthetic, contamination is contamination regardless of what TYPE of oil you use.)
As someone who's semi-retired and doing his best to keep a 2000 Toyota Echo going as long as possible, I'm delighted by your channel. I've also got a VVTi engine, the 1NZ-FE, whose primary use seems to be in some models of the Prius. I'd love to see you discuss it, and in particular how to prevent the oil consumption problems in the pre-2003 models along with how reasonable it would to replace the pistons in those years with the revised pistons.
I am thinking of changing the rings in my 2000 1nz-fe as well. Are the pistons in the newer ones different as well? And are they compatible with the early 2000s model?
If you make a video tutorial tag me. My family has a few echos, and I might inherit one one day, but in general I like to help with car maintenance on family cars.
I had a light blue Echo w ultra low miles that was pristine. I babied that thing. Ran exceptionally well and was easy to care for. It got wrecked, not by me, and I was very sorry to see it go. Quite possible one of the best cars I had. Glad people appreciate them. 🙏
I would love to see more videos on the later 1GR-FE engines like the 2015 Tacoma. It's hard to find much bad news or good news about them. I guess that's a good thing.
Can I know where is the location of this oil supply line attached to Toyota Wish 2004 1AZ-ESE-ENGINE MODEL CBA-ANE11W-HWXQH. Couldn't locate the oil pipe line? Here you mention: 21:27 one metal lines oil lines 21:30 those are the supply lines for the vbti 21:34 gears 21:35 these have a filter when they connect to 21:37 the valve cover it's just a small mesh
9:10 That is very legitimate point that you made here master! I am a GD&T engineer. I totally understood what the design issue was which was not correctly assigned tolerance ranges both pin and hole. That totally makes sense to me. I appreciate the time you have taken for us. 9:26 That entire mechanism needs to be redesign by a supplier other than Toyota. Since TOYOTA did not correctly calculate the tolerance limits of this entire mechanism. Or you should take this apart and add very precise spacers right behind the veins. So that when expansion and contraction take place those spacers are going to stop veins to come off of their places.
I have a 2002 Toyota Camry with 2AZ-FE 2.4L engine and 102000 mi. Always changed the oil every 5000 mi and used Pennzoil 5W30 mineral. The car mostly runs OK, but recently I noticed the fuel economy changes drastically on the same 260 mi highway route. Usually I get around 35 MPG according to my calibrated Scan Gauge, but sometimes it is as low as 28 MPG or as high as 38 MPG. Same speed, gas, outside temperatures, load. If I stop at a rest area and shut down the engine for 15 minutes, it seems to have a big positive effect on fuel economy, but not always. This car also started to smoke at a cold start and I am thinking about replacing the valve stem seals. This will be my opportunity to fix an oil leak from the valve cover gasket and to see how much oil sludge is on the head components. After watching this excellent presentation on VVTi system I started to suspect that it may the reason for varying fuel economy. Is there something I can do during disassembly to verify the VVTi functions properly? By the way, I do not have any trouble codes setup.
Excellent aa always! Even if you have little time, EVERYONE should listen starting 17:20 about oil changes through 19:30. It's well worth the two minutes.
My 2003 Corolla always makes this noise for 1 second only after the first start after a fresh oil change. But that's the only time it makes that noise. going on an estimated over 500,000 miles closer to 600,000 miles and still running like new. By the way the odometer stops at 299,999 on all these models (2003-2008) Corolla's.
@@Shade_Tree_Mechanic No , I will fix most things, but I have a full time job that I use my car for, so I am not pulling an engine or tranny. Besides, it ran fine for 200k with a little rattle for 1.5 sec on start. If you flush the oil and replace every 5k it's not a problem.
Wow! You not only are highly competent in your profession, you also have the ability to explain in easy-to-comprehend language, that people can understand. THANK YOU, IMMENSELY ❣ ❤ 100% ❤ Roland Singh, Canada 🇨🇦
Thanks for the information. my 2008 sienna with 200k miles, i bought it a year ago. it used to make a horrible loud rattling sound on warm startup. I do not notice any rattling in the morning or when the engine is cold, starts really smooth. That warm startup rattle used to bother me so much, i tried using different brand oils and filters. Toyota oil filter and mobil1 0w30 absolutely improved it. it rarely rattles now, and when it does its for a split second barely can hear it.
Awesome and detailed explanation of this issue! I have an 09' Matrix 2zr-fe with almost 260k miles that rattles every time I start it. Had this issue for the past 150k+ miles and also burns oil like a motherf*cker. I always change the oil every 3-5k and top off every week of driving. Great little car in general but this is something that Toyota should've addressed and fully reimbursed.
@Kamil Zieba darnit! 1ZZ-FE engine would have been not the oil burner. I have an 06' Matrix with 1ZZ & it is fabulous even though it's been used daily for 16 years, & racing for the last 3 years. No overhauls ever. Looking forward to the next 300,000 km of driving, keeping fluids clean & maintenance.
My 09 corolla use to rattle sometimes if it was a cold morning. I noticed once i changed the oil it went away. I recently got the car so it was the first time ive changed it since I owned it and its seemed to have cleared it up. I didnt go cheap on the oil though. I put 0w-20 mobil 1 EP HM and oem filter. My buddy was suggesting if it came back to add some atf to the oil to clean up the vvti sysytem.
@@biohazarddream710no need to add ATF. You can shorten the oil change intervals because they have detergents in oil. Quick short changes can act as a flush. I've even kept the same oil filter on the 2nd quick change.
I spend a couple of days going on long drives at high revs to work the vvt-i system on 2005 Celica Red Edition. Definitely a difference and I highly recommended this cheap service of the system every few weeks. Thankyou for sharing your knowledge and blessings, it's appreciated 😎
Wow, this was an important video and very good education... as 2009 sienna owner, i'll be listening for this! I hope our local toyota techs are as good as you.
I have been going through some adventures with my 2007 Camry. It's been making tapping noise intermittently sometime when accelerates and sometime when the gas pedal is released. I had it taken to the mechanic that I have been taking to the last ten years. They thought it was leaking oil and changed the valve cover gasket that they changed just a few years ago. Now I know how they are and I will never take the car back to them. They said they couldn't find out what happened and told me to take it to the dealer. The dealer said it has to do with the VVT gear and told me I should change all of them for about $8K. I found a new mechanic shop. This mechanic seems to be a very nice guy and told me since the tapping is not ongoing it should not have to do anything with the engine and the sound is coming from the dash. They did an engine flush and the car actually runs better but the tapping sound still comes up. I am praying that there is no issues with the VVT gears. Amd, if you happened to read this, I hope you can give me your option. God Bless!
Wife's 2011 Rav4 2.5 had this rattle for about 3 years now and it would still have it if it wasn't for this video opening my eyes. Car starts up like it did brand new again. Thank you for this awesome video and please keep them coming! Love this channel!
I had start up rattle and engine rattle at all times never really though much of there being a difference but the start up rattle went away and higher revs the nocking sound went away so just finished replacing the intake cam gear, also tried doing it with the chain cover on, crank shaft slipped so i pulled everything went to put the valve cover back on and noticed the exhaust gear looked funny one side was higher thought it was becuase of the shape of the spring didnt think much of it went to clean up the chain cover and the exhaust has been grinding away my valve cover, ive just bought this off this guy they where having marrige problems and the wife took off and months later came in the shop with a litter of oil left in her, messed up all those pins in the cam gear, keep up the videos!, started it up she sounds brand new! God bless you
I have a 2007 Corolla with 76K miles. It has been garaged all its life and is, as they say, in “mint” condition. I am Obsessed with keeping it clean and with oil changes. I guess I have been doing all the right things without really knowing why.😊
This was helpful because it showed and explained all of the systems. One thing that would be super helpful would be to display what in layman’s terms is the engine you are talking about. For example If you said the C-3PO QG7 or what have you, if you could display in the corner 3.0 And what year and models . Because we have no idea the names of these engines. But extremely helpful, thanks so much. We buy a lot of Toyotas and this was really helpful
I have a 2010 Sienna with the 2GR-FE engine. It has 235,000 km and has been trouble free. A huge thanks for the heads up. I will check with the dealer about
I have the 2AR. The intake cam gear has been replaced twice under warranty and it still does it. Unfortunately, the part hasn't been updated so they keep replacing a defective part with another one, lol.
how long does it do the rattle? My 2012 camry does the rattle at cold start for 1-2 seconds. I started using Liqui Moly 0w-20 oil and it only does the rattle for a half second even at very cold starts. Now that it's warmer weather, maybe for a quarter second. I should also mention it is very vital that oil on these engines should be replaced every 5k miles or sooner depending on the driving conditions. Toyota engines are very picky about intervals. If you live anywhere that gets cold enough to have snow, stick with the "severe" interval, which is 5k miles.
A half a second rattle😂😂😂, dude the quick rattle on start up is not a problem, once it stops your ok 👌, I’ll have to get my stopwatch and time mine in my Lexus is300h…
@@whoknows8678 I’m concerned about this too. My 2010 RX350 has always had synthetic oil changes once every 10,000 miles per the guidelines/manual. I’ve had the car since brand new so next month will be 12 years that I’ve had it. Now I’m starting to think I may need to start changing the oil every 5000 instead of 10,000 miles🤔
I’m going through the same ordeal on my Nissan Micra. Funnily enough I already started tapping the thread into the outside solenoid that’s stuck in the block. I’ll resume work on it tomorrow but wanted to see if the internet had any other ideas too. Great video man, thanks for sharing either way.
Man, I wish I was where you are. I would definitely come to your shop. I'm going to change both of my VVT gears on my daughter's 2010 Camry SE 2AR-FE engine. Hopefully, I can do it without pulling the engine. 2nd I don't see anybody saying anything about any gaskets when putting the covers back on. And thirdly are the 2 VVT solenoids the same on the top cover? Thanks for your videos man. What a wealth of knowledge
Thank you for another very informative video. Not very mechanic is created equal. You are an extraordinary knowledgeable & skillful mechanic with high morals and highest work ethics. As part of my maintenance of my 2004 Lexus LS 430, currently it is at 230,000 miles, I plan to have all front & rear suspension components changed with OEM components. I wish I live in the same city as yours, so I can have you work on it. My car is always being serviced by my local Lexus dealership. Again, even at the dealership, not all mechanics are created equal. To be honest, from my experience over the years, there are few very lazy mechanics working there. Few months ago, I had my 5000-mile oil changed, the mechanic did not place back all the grommets for the bottom cover. As I was on my long road trip, on the freeway, part of the bottom cover came off & was dragging on the freeway. By the time I got off the freeway safely to check what the loud noice was, almost half of the cover was missing, while the remaining hanging piece was still dragging on the road. I had to buy some duck tape & go under the car to tape up the hanging portion. Even when I got back home and had a new cover put on by the dealership. My regular service advisor and I were just happened to check under the car just before I leave the dealership to find out the the mechanic who worked on the new cover replacement had at least six holes missing grommets. My advisor had to take my car back in to ensure all holes have a grommets in it. If we did not check, I may have the same problem again driving down the freeway.
I took my off on every car. No need to have them there beside the front. Not those hanging all the way back to the exhaust pipe, pointless. I say this is because I work on my own car, thorough my life, everyone are no issues. But since you said you have dealership and shop work on your car. The last thing any mechanic want to to see is cover grommets under the car. A hassle to remove and a hassle to put back on. Remove for their sake or anyone plan to work on it. Trust me.
I bought a 2008 Highlander with the 3.5 V6 and 180k miles. About a year after I got it I started getting that very brief rattle, but it would also do it sometimes even when the car was warm. I saw a Scotty Kilmer video that said sometimes the sound can actually be timing chain rattle because the chain tensioner is “oil driven”, and if the tensioner gets clogged up from dirt, lack of maintenance, and so on so that the tensioner does not get enough oil pressure in it right away. He advised trying the ATS oil treatment and changing the oil. I did that and changed to full synthetic. That was 8 months ago and the sound is gone and has not come back.
Well, our 2008 highlander variable valve timing actuator lost a bolt at about 110k, and we ended up spending 6k on a used engine. Now, we're at 240k and it is still doing fine. But, 6k for a used motor - if mine rattled, I'd bring it in! The other things that messed up on that 2008 are external oil lines at the bottom front of the motor ($60 and an hour to change) and one other external line up near the valve cover - can't remember the cost of that, but less than $100, and easy to change. Both leaked, but we caught it before the motor lost all oil pressure, by some luck.
Thank you for the outstanding video. I am having two loud knocks on start up on my 2012 RAV4. I am pretty sure this is the problem even though it sounds different from the soundbite in the video. The Rav I have is one of the VINs affected.
Thanks for a great video! My 2013 Camry with 2AR 4-cyl rattles for exactly 1 second upon cold start. Engine has 160K mi and has always done it. What should I do?....this is a GREAT engine in all respects!
Hi! It might be a long question with background. I bought ES350 2009 @ 223K miles few months ago. At the time of purchase tests showed P0011, P0012, P0013, P0015, P0016, P0017, the engine is rebuilt, but there was no active issue. Although there was 1-3 seconds upto a minute of rattling sound on start (cold, hot and sometimes while waiting at a red light) but it wasn’t bothering. It had 5W30 in it then at the time of engine service the lubes shop employee advised me to go for 20W50 coz the engine was old. My bad I listened to him, and from the time I started the engine after changing the oil, I felt something off. Engine felt heavy, it took effort to run and mild vibration on idling. The next morning when I started the car the rough idling was wayyy more. The RPM was dancing, low and high on its own. The car wants to let go if I keep breaks on at D and shakes like engine wants to shutdown. Since then it comes and goes away as it wills. There is no check engine light. Since last 2 days the AC compressor doesn’t switch on if I’m waiting at D. As soon as I switch to N it starts cooling and sometimes it doesn’t work on P either. Don’t know if it’s connected with the engine issue or not. My mechanic told me everything is coz of the VVT gears and timing chain. The chain needs adjust only or maybe change of gears. I checked it again yesterday with a scanner at the workshop and it gave P0011 & P0016 only. He’s adamant that solenoids and sensors are fine as there is no check engine light. All the TH-cam videos I saw, they keep VVT to be the last thing wrong but my mechanic is going the other way around. He didn’t check the connections, the sensors or solenoids. PLEASE TELL ME WHAT SHOULD I DO? I’m sorry it’s too long, but I had to explain. Thanks in advance.
@@FerasAlhawas the issue with the honda vtc actuator is that as the engine cools down the oil that is suppose to normally stay in the actuator leaks back into the oil pan, and the rattle occurs at start up for the oil pressure to come up to the head. often the symptom occurs in winter on the 2.4l. the older oil is thicker so is less likely to leak down
@@saeedhossain6099I've been working through this issue on my CR-V for a while. I've replaced the spring and worked over the locking pin to allow it to move in and out freely. It made the rattle much quieter and shorter, but will still rattle after twice as much time transpires as before. Before I had it quieted down with a new spring and smoother out pin, on a cold start in 15* F weather, it did not rattle at all. My rattle has occurred in all temps, but most notable is that within a window of time (now increased), the rattle is gone after the first start. If I wait about 4 hours now (was as soon as one hour) it will be back.
My 2010 Accord EX 2.4 L with 120k miles just started making that VTC noise on morning starts in the colder Nov to April weather, or if it's been sitting over 4 hours. I change the oil every 5k with good hi-mileage syn oil. Guess I need to take it in soon. Should replace the spark plugs and check the valves while they are in it.
18:54 i n my dad love our 2012 fortuner, got a 2tr vvt-i and its so tough, after the engine being used up since 2012 till 2021, when we checked the health of the engine after using it for nearly 200k KMs, it still showed 80% health!! toyota is something more than what it is ❤
2014 Tacoma 2.7l VVTi. Cold starts in the winter makes a knocking noise for maybe 15 seconds at the most. The audio sample you played at 7:45 sounded nothing like what im hearing. i got it new in the fall of 2013. Always maintained, 104K miles. Love your stuff. Great job.
Hi AMD, great video! I have a '10 Corolla LE 1.8L with about 120k. I don't think I have the VVTi rattle at cold starts, however I get a screeching belt noise at cold starts. I got my serpentine belt replaced at 90k like back in 2018. The first time the mechanic didn't tighten it enough and sounded like it was slipping. Then I had a toyota shop tighten it per spec. However, it still get a screeching sound on cold starts. This is on a dayco 5060485 belt. When I originally bought the car in in 2010 from the dealer, I used to get the screeching sound with the toyota belt. However, this would only happen in the mornings when it was very cold in South Florida, which is rare. Now with the Dayco, belt it doesn't matter whether the weather is cold or not. The screeching noise just typically happens on cold starts. I notice if I put the key in the ignition and don't start immediately and move the key back and forth before the start, sometimes this action prevents the screeching noise. Any thoughts? The Toyota shop that tightened it previously said that if the belt keeps making the noise, then just replace it.
My sister had a 2009 RAV4 with a 2.5L engine that I always changed the oil every 3 to 5000 miles and it still had the problem. She eventually traded it for a 2018. If these were production problem issues why didn’t Toyota cover these. I have a 2013 RAV4. I noticed if it sits for 2 weeks, there is a very brief light rattle sound. Can I assume this is normal since all of the oil is in the pan? This is similar to the first start when you just changed your oil.
I have a 2012 Camry 2arfe with this rattle when it starts. Do you have a video on how to replace the vv assembly. Thanks for all your videos I recommend them to all my friends.
Great guide. My engine made same noise and my mechanic advice a change so we did and can't hear it again. You just thought me what was really happening.
My old 2009 1.8L Corolla has this issue randomly for over a decade. 5w30 synthetic since new and now has well over 500,000km and doesn't burn oil measurably. Apparently it doesn't affect longevity too much. Oil change @10K km, religiously.
I’ve been using 0W20 in my ‘10 Corolla for the last 12 years and 220k km on the car no problem at all with the engine and still quiet and smooth like brand new
@@christophervanzetta been running 0w20 always mobile or penzoil always factory filter. Changed at 5k oci in my 2012 1.8 corolla since new. And at 140k miles it rattles on most every start and burns a quart per 10k. Though i dont care i change it at 5k still half way on the dipstick. (Granted ive treated the little red rolla like a rental rocket f1 rally dragster for its whole life) she just wont quit
@@christopherhuynh6889 i do the same on my 09 corolla 0w20 synthetic at every 8-9k miles.. i have 267k miles on my toyota still purrs like a kitten with no gear rattle. The squeel i get is from the starter on cold days
Drop the oil pan an see if the oil pump pick up tube's screen is clogged. Mine was about 70% clogged due to the fiber drive gear on the balancer shaft wearing over time and the material going to the bottom of the pan and clogging the pick up tube. I also replaced the balancer shafts because that fiber final broke and the balancer shafts were no longer being driven or engaged with the main crank shaft of the engine.
You're so right about the Toyota timing chains versus other makes of timing chains. My Camry with the 2.5 timing chain is $172. The timing chain for my Lincoln Town Car with the 4.6 v8 timing chain costs a rediculous $30 from the dealer.
Great video Ahmed! It’s too bad Toyota and Honda’s can’t prime the engine with oil prior to starting the engine, like all domestic brands can. At least the domestics can alleviate symptoms with flood mode.
@@billdeason6212 hold the brake and gas pedal all the way down to the floor at the same time, while trying to turn over the engine. This is called "flood mode"
Old Jeep 4.0 engines did this by not enabling the injectors until the ECM sees 2 full crankshaft rotation. Good design, and likely why those engines last so long.
Thank you so much for your explanation and video. I have 2015 Corolla with 2zr fe engine. On cold startup, it sometimes make a rattling noise, kinda like a loose muffler clamp. In fact, I kinda thought that’s what it was (until I saw this video). Therefore I didn’t complain to dealer. Always went away after couple of seconds. I change oil every 5k miles or 6 months. Engine has only gone couple times to 10k miles before oil change. Car was a rental at a dealer. Engine now has about 162k miles. Doesn’t burn any oil. Have always used mobile one synthetic. What parts do I need to change vvt gear? Thank you and keep up the great work. Your videos are great and I wish you the best in your new endeavors with your shop. 😀
Hello, my 2015 corolla makes a rattling noise but when is very hot I believe is something to do with this vvti, it doesn't make it at cold start perhaps because where I live it doesn't get that cold. The sound comes and goes like a tac tac tac and when I accelerate it goes faster, what did you find out that your vehicle had?
If you watch his older videos on maintenance. He says to replace oil every 5000 miles or 6 months, whichever comes first. And he shows Toyota oil, which is synthetic oil. I would just do every 5000 miles and avoid a future headache from not doing so.
Thank you for your videos. I have learned so much from you. Just replaced the oil cooler line in my 2007 Sienna yesterday after watching your video on the subject. Instructions were detailed and perfect! My daughter's 2014 RAV4 has the cold start engine rattle (every day) but I don't quite have the confidence to tackle that. Being from the south, your shop is not an option for us. Do you think most dealer technicians know how to correctly check and replace the cam gears guides? Thanks again!
He is absolutely right bad cam gear can destroy the engine but the timing chain tensioners also go bad if these items are replaced your in good shape and Please use OEM Toyota parts not the crap off eBay
i heard this once, 2 months ago on my 1zr-fe engine on fairly new 1500km 10w 30 Amzoil, on my 2015 altis doing 57000km, i already knew what it was from the start so i'm just waiting to hear it a few more times then i'll fix the problem
Thank you! Finally you addressed this issue. Its definetelly a bad design, experienced even on very low milleage engines. On Europe Toyota/Lexus ignores this and has no service buletin for this as in US. Anyway, this was a disapointment for my trust on Toyota, and certainly will never buy a VVTi engine again. Better stick with 1HD-FTE and 5SFE engines than hybrids with vvtis, nothing like the old engineering to last a life.
@Lp Lp my 06' Matrix has never had VVT-i issues like what you're mentioning. Also, the ATS oil system cleaner can fix the VVT-i rattle sometimes. I could explain it more if you want
Hello AMD,Thank´s for the very detailed explanation.As you stated.,Oil change is everithing to get an long lasting and reliable engine,As an Toyota mechanic I see it all the time.micro filters clogged by sludge on many engines specially on the 1ZZ and the 1GRFE .Sometimes because the low quality oil some people buy and some times cause the customer never changes the oil altogether..When the car arrives at my shop it sounds like an electric typewriter at full work,je je.I think people should read more their user manual as to learn about sheduled maintenance intervals and follow that recomendation.As allways,keep up the excelent work.
Hello AMD. I noticed that you don’t mark every positive comment anymore. I guess you are way too busy nowadays and besides there are plenty of excellent videos on TH-cam on your channel, however thank you very much for yet another brilliant tutorial. I asked you in a comment for another video some time back about rattling on my 2GR-FE installed on 2008 RX350.In my case rattle happen on hot start, not on cold one. I noticed same in couple of comments from fellow viewers too. Since dismantling and inspection is too expensive, could you please give your professional opinion on rattle when engine is hot? Thank you 🙏
Hey AMD, thanks for sharing your deep pool of knowledge. I have a question please. I have a used 2010 RX 350 and I am concerned about the problem you mentioned at 13:35 Does this noise you mentioned stays even after the engine is warmed up or does it go away? My car has a clicking/squeaking noise (my guess is belt pulleys) for first 1-2 mins on a cold start but slowly goes away and then no unusual noises. I am going to get it looked at the next service but I am concerned after watching this video. Can you please help me? Thank you and bless you for educating millions like myself. Much love
I've taken apart a Volvo VVT gear and it contained a tiny orifice, no more than .030" in diameter. If you have a VVT equipped vehicle it's essential to use a high quality synthetic oil. If you have the start-up rattle install a high detergent oil like Pennzoil Platinum and you may get lucky. Then change your oil frequently until your engine is internally clean. Toyota dealers use dino oil unless you request a synthetic which you may or may not get.
I had a 2ZR-FE (2009 Pontiac Vibe) that does this on every cold start. What I found is that if I turn my key to ON without igniting for 5 seconds (about the same time for the airbag light to turn off), then ignite the engine, the dreadful noise disappears. I do this on every start and never heard the noise again.
@@chrisluquette1615 Honestly, I have no clue… I read this in a forum somewhere and thought giving it a try and it worked for me. My initial thought is that perhaps some components of the VVTi is controlled electronically by the ECU and that the first 5 sec of ignition has a lot of power draw (from all the system checks etc) and somehow it interferes with that.
I have the A25 engine in my 2020 RAV4. I've been using Mobil One 0W-16. The oil is changed every 6 months. From Nov 2019 till now the vehicle has 9200+ miles on it and it runs GREAT! Remember this. OIL IS CHEAP, ENGINES ARE EXPENSIVE ! ! ! It's not only the timing chain and gear parts, it's the wear and tear on piston rings, on crankshaft and camshaft bearings, on connecting rod bearings and MANY other rotating parts! OIL IS CHEAP! ENGINES ARE EXPENSIVE ! ! !
I own a Sienna 2013 FWD with 287000 Miles, the rattling is about 4 secs started occasionally now is a daily thing, I replaced the small cone filter from the oil feed line, PCV valve and VVT valves no improvement, doesn't consume oil just waiting for better prices to upgrade has been a loyal work horse.
He’s right my brother tried to change timing chain on his 300k miles Tacoma & the dealer asked why he wanted to change it, he told well it got 300k it should b about time & dealer told him Toyota timing chains are built to last a life time
I love all your videos and have learned a lot. I have a question about my 2007 RAV4 AWD Sport with the 3.5 2 GR FE engine with 160k miles on it. Every once in a while when I start it, makes the rattle noise you talk about for a couple of seconds. Sometimes it will go a few weeks before making the sound then may do it twice in a week. I change the oil every 5k miles and the engine does not use any oil between oil changes. The oil never even gets dirty between changes. Is my engine doomed?
My 2008 Highlander at t 128k just started the rattle, and I'm getting a P0302 misfire code on Cyl. 2. I assume the two issues are related (replaced plug and swapped coils, still cyl 2 P0302). Gotta say, the prospective cost of fixing the VVTi (engine out of the car) could pay for a LOT of in-car maintenance on any other vehicle. I can't agree, if this is common for this engine, that this is a reliable engine if I have to shell out $5-$6,000 for the repair.... doubt I'll do that... sell it needing a repair and get something else. Not happy, bob... not happy. Though, after owning the car and seeing car-care-nut, these are the BEST DYI fixit car videos out there... hands down no question.
I love seeing them also I have a 2018 Trd off road. They are built unbelievably well. I take meticulous care of mine. I want it to last a very long time.
My 2019 Camry SE has made the same noises not long after I purchased it. I took it to the dealer back in 2019 and was told it was fine and nothing to worry about. Mind you a shared the videos I took. Well fast to today (June 8, 2022). I took more videos, which I shared again. Proof of rattle like you shared as well a a higher pitched rattle whining type noise. The dealer said it was fine and 100% normal. I stated the noise lasts for sometimes for minutes before it stops, after sitting overnight. I was told that the system is smart and that it was a process that the engine goes through some kind of cleaning process. That NO sense. Anyway it has been documented twice now. By the way I now have 35k miles. I even told them I wanted to make sure imthe car was ok because was going on. Trip 3k round trip. Hope all will be fine. BTW I change my oil no more than 5k miles, of course synthetic oil, and no more than 6 months. Thoughts??
I bought a 13 Camry with 70k miles that now has 109k miles. It has the startup rattle. I believe the oil drains back to the pan overnight due to two reasons, the low position of oil filter on the engine and the fact that the cartridge style oil filter has no check valve. I believe this causes a slight delay in oil pressure at startup. That being said I added about 16 ounces of Marvels Mystery Oil last weekend due to the oil being a half quart low. I always use Penzoil synthetic oil. I’m due for an oil change in less than 400 miles. As a tech I don’t like to use oil additives oil any oil flush. But have heard only positive things about MMO. In one week the noise has decreased to just a half second! BTW Marvels recommends to replace up to 20% of your oil capacity with MMO.
Your said it is only doing it a half of a second now. How long was it doing it before, because mine makes a rattle until the car warms up, but only in cold (below 45 degrees) startups
I've tried to change oil viscosity. Going to a 10w 35 Instead of 10w 30 and it kinda helps. Tbh I've had that cold start rattle for 3 years now. My 08 Lexus es350 is perfectly fine. So besides it being a slight annoyance it seems to be a non issue. Update: I've always done on time oil changes and I try to use royal purple so I guess Its helping prevent my engine from blowing up lol. And if that's the case. Thank goodness cause I can't afford to replace this.
@@MiguelRPD I mean, whatcha gonna do? I got a 12 year old Corolla with US North East rust, some road rash donated by a parking lot side swiper, and a fender held together with zip ties. It's worth less than 4k. Doesn't make economic sense to fix it. If this is what finally ends it, I won't feel like it owes me a penny.
Having noticed sludge at the main cam bearings in my 2003 Corolla, i carefully studied the VVTi and finally opened up the VVTi. The VVTi was full of sludge and the oil ports were literally clogged. Had to use several solvents to dissolve and clean the sludge. Use is made of universal socket wrench for the 5 headed bolts and torque wrench to fasten the bolts. Torquing the main bolt while keeping the lock-pin unlocked, was a little ticklish. Thanks to Toyota, the cam bearings were numbered and marked, without which i might have failed to reasseble the cam bearings properly as a DIYer. After purging the sludge from the VVTi, OCV and also from all the oil galleries, the Engine's performance improved like new. Thanks for your precise and detailed videos🙏
Nice, I am looking to attempt this. What engine is your Corolla? @PrasadKakara
Switch to synthetic over the next several o/c. It's a detergent oil, so it should continue to flush out those right areas you may've missed
@@willg.5168 All of today's motor oils are detergent oils, except those specifically labeled 'non-detergent'. A synthetic doesn't 'flush out' an engine any better than any other motor oil.
you sir are a good man, im just a 25 year old from australia , and ive learnt so much in 22 mins from your video about just , the heart of how a car operates , its amazing to see the detail and in depth look on how gears and oil plays a part - thank you -
liked & subscribed
I have a 2015 Camry that had the VVT gear rattle and Thanks to your video I knew what it was and that I needed to get it fixed ASAP- Thankfully I was able get it repaired under extended warranty before any damage was done! Thanks AMD ! Keep cranking out the great videos!
I think mine is starting to make that sound everytime in the morning in cold start. Can you do a follow up DIY on how to remove and install the new vvti please sir!
Yes please, and guys let's top this comment so AMD can see it!
And please on an rx with a 2gr. Does the engine have to come out?
Cheap bastard, you're gonna granade your engine
@@bry94608 I think so. Even if not, some loosening from mounts and jacking would be required
Full synthetic oil fixed my issue. Not a cheap blend like they use. Don’t trust mechanics.
I'm liking the background and the table. the whole presentation seems so simple, yet so professional. you got the power, you got the flava.
I drive an ‘09 Corolla with 112k miles. No major issues with it except the inevitable VVT-I rattle. Doesn’t burn or drip oil. Coming from domestic cars this is an unusual experience.
Oil changed at 5k miles religiously or sooner whenever the car was driven less. Definitely will be looking into a parts swap soon. Especially since the engine can grenade (did not know this before). I want to keep the car even though it is turning 15 years old. Was thinking about trading it in, but I can’t bring myself to do it.
Same. I have an 09 Corolla than "sneezes" when it cold starts in winter. I've found 0W-20 oil to help better than 5W20.
@@stevecooper7883 YESSS, my '09 2ZR-FE (Pontiac Vibe) sometimes does the "sneeze" - which is completely different from the rattle described here. I haven't been able to find out anything about what causes it. I'm wondering if it's something to do with the starter motor engaging/disengaging. I didn't know about the potential grenading. Hope it's not a big job to replace the cam controller.
In Australia Toyota have gone to a 12 month/15KM (9K MLS) oil change interval with the M20a engine. I purchased a new Corolla 3 months ago and raised this with the service department who told me all was good and not to worry. I always change my oil every 6 months or 8KMS whichever comes first. Now i'm retired it's six months that comes first, as I'm not out and about like I used to be. They say i'm just wasting my money doing that! I'm also a retired shop owner and agree with you 100% on your recommendation. So i'll continue to do my own oil change@6 months using genuine Toyota 0-16 and oil filter despite what they say. I'm with you brother on this one!
Same toyota recommandation here in france ! I suppose 2gr RX450H is concern about this ?
12 month 15k interval is perfectly fine. Just wasting good oil any earlier. My 11 year old Camry has always been serviced at 15k intervals it runs like a clock after 218000 kms. Toyota know their engines, they bench test them for hundreds of thousands of kms. If they schedule a certain service interval stick with it. Can void your warranty if its not adhered to.
If you are using a true fully synthetic oil of reputed quality.... And your engine is not old enough, say 150 k kms done..... Then you can take interval to 15k kms .
I have a 06 nissan 2.2 dci (nissan japan) done around 200k kms. I use idemitsu 5/30 semi synthetic or shell synthetic before at 8-10k kms
Agree. I personally replace oil every 5,000km - just a simple DIY drain and fill. I change the oil filter typically 10,000km or 15,000km as per the user user manual (depending on the car). So far no issues with my vehicle’s engines with 250,000km+ on them.
Never any major work on them (knock on wood). Spark Plugs, user serviceable wearable items, filters and regular quality fluid changes is all I’ve done. Toyota/Lexus vehicles are very robust so long as the basics are taken care of.
@@ezymarkz all companies earn the profit in after sales service and spare.... Hardly any significant margin on sale of new vehicle.
Their aim is to recommend service intervals and service parts such that the engine runs without any major issue just enough long .... This just enough long is mostly warranty period and kms . Say 100k kms and 5 yrs .
Moreover petrol engines hardly go bugy when timely maintained. Diesels need attention of service like interval and oil quality since they run sooty and stressed. But modern diesels are even robust.
All in all its all a global propaganda about service and oils. Its purely dependent on how and where engine runs. A homely city driven car may go twice longer without service as compared to same car in taxi run. Still both are recommended same interval and oil . Why?
Hello, you saved my LX470 transmission. I did a drain and fill last week. Only 1.5 qt came out. It must have been the fluid level where I was getting the P2714 code. I added 3.5 qt and followed your instructions on checking fluid level. Now everything is back to normal. I’m planning to do one more drain and fill next week to get most of the old oil out. Thank you for your videos. MR
Hope you get this. Check out the video he posts on transmission oil changes. Essentially, you do not want super clean oil for transmissions. The clutches need a certain ammount of "debris" in the oil . Without it, they will slip . Sometimes badly. He also recommends to never , never flush a transmission. Hope your transmission is doing OK.
My 2005 Scion XB has a 1.5 L VVTi engine. No problems with 236,281 miles to-date. Very reliable Toyota engine. Love this car. Admire all the knowledge your channel is providing all of your subscribers. Keep up the excellent work.
@Adam B 1nz-fe engines do have vvti
@@lenardkareem5551 Yes the NZ series has VVT-i on intake cam....But there is almost ZERO issues as long it has been maintained every 5,000 miles (Doesn't Matter if Good Dino or ULTRA Synthetic, contamination is contamination regardless of what TYPE of oil you use.)
Got an 04 Xa manual transmission that thing still runs like a champ...
As someone who's semi-retired and doing his best to keep a 2000 Toyota Echo going as long as possible, I'm delighted by your channel. I've also got a VVTi engine, the 1NZ-FE, whose primary use seems to be in some models of the Prius. I'd love to see you discuss it, and in particular how to prevent the oil consumption problems in the pre-2003 models along with how reasonable it would to replace the pistons in those years with the revised pistons.
I am thinking of changing the rings in my 2000 1nz-fe as well. Are the pistons in the newer ones different as well? And are they compatible with the early 2000s model?
If you make a video tutorial tag me. My family has a few echos, and I might inherit one one day, but in general I like to help with car maintenance on family cars.
I had a light blue Echo w ultra low miles that was pristine. I babied that thing. Ran exceptionally well and was easy to care for. It got wrecked, not by me, and I was very sorry to see it go. Quite possible one of the best cars I had. Glad people appreciate them. 🙏
I would love to see more videos on the later 1GR-FE engines like the 2015 Tacoma. It's hard to find much bad news or good news about them. I guess that's a good thing.
Can I know where is the location of this oil supply line attached to Toyota Wish 2004 1AZ-ESE-ENGINE MODEL CBA-ANE11W-HWXQH. Couldn't locate the oil pipe line? Here you mention:
21:27
one metal lines oil lines
21:30
those are the supply lines for the vbti
21:34
gears
21:35
these have a filter when they connect to
21:37
the valve cover it's just a small mesh
Thank you. I knew what VVT was but I had no idea how it worked. Now I have a much better understanding of the VVT system.
9:10 That is very legitimate point that you made here master! I am a GD&T engineer. I totally understood what the design issue was which was not correctly assigned tolerance ranges both pin and hole. That totally makes sense to me. I appreciate the time you have taken for us.
9:26 That entire mechanism needs to be redesign by a supplier other than Toyota. Since TOYOTA did not correctly calculate the tolerance limits of this entire mechanism. Or you should take this apart and add very precise spacers right behind the veins. So that when expansion and contraction take place those spacers are going to stop veins to come off of their places.
The part has been redesigned and superseded by Toyota.
@@UltimateBreloom Hi, thank you very much for letting me know that. May I ask you the new part number of it? Thanks,
@@WIP0 It depends on the engine, but for the 2AR for example 13050-36011, 13050-0V010, 13050-36010 were all replaced with SKU 13050-0V011.
@@UltimateBreloom thank you very much!
@@UltimateBreloom Do you know when the new part was introduced into production?
I never hear you talk about the 1.5 Litre 1NZFE engine but I love learning new stuff!
I have a 2002 Toyota Camry with 2AZ-FE 2.4L engine and 102000 mi. Always changed the oil every 5000 mi and used Pennzoil 5W30 mineral. The car mostly runs OK, but recently I noticed the fuel economy changes drastically on the same 260 mi highway route. Usually I get around 35 MPG according to my calibrated Scan Gauge, but sometimes it is as low as 28 MPG or as high as 38 MPG. Same speed, gas, outside temperatures, load. If I stop at a rest area and shut down the engine for 15 minutes, it seems to have a big positive effect on fuel economy, but not always. This car also started to smoke at a cold start and I am thinking about replacing the valve stem seals. This will be my opportunity to fix an oil leak from the valve cover gasket and to see how much oil sludge is on the head components. After watching this excellent presentation on VVTi system I started to suspect that it may the reason for varying fuel economy. Is there something I can do during disassembly to verify the VVTi functions properly? By the way, I do not have any trouble codes setup.
Just showed my father this video and he thanks you for explaining it so well
Excellent aa always! Even if you have little time, EVERYONE should listen starting 17:20 about oil changes through 19:30. It's well worth the two minutes.
My 2003 Corolla always makes this noise for 1 second only after the first start after a fresh oil change. But that's the only time it makes that noise. going on an estimated over 500,000 miles closer to 600,000 miles and still running like new. By the way the odometer stops at 299,999 on all these models (2003-2008) Corolla's.
@@jamesmoody7162 wow Space Shuttle mileage - well done James !
Thank you!
F6c)drhdgfhjdmdj(fnchd)
Mobil 1 is one of the very top performing oils, go full synthetic.
Thank you my friend. This solved my problem of rough idle at stops. Simple and cheap. You are an excellent teacher. Love your videos.
Did you replace the VVTI assembly yourself?
@@Shade_Tree_Mechanic No , I will fix most things, but I have a full time job that I use my car for, so I am not pulling an engine or tranny. Besides, it ran fine for 200k with a little rattle for 1.5 sec on start. If you flush the oil and replace every 5k it's not a problem.
how is it cheap it requires the removal of the engine to fix this problem
Wow! You not only are highly competent in your profession, you also have the ability to explain in easy-to-comprehend
language, that people can understand. THANK YOU, IMMENSELY ❣ ❤ 100% ❤ Roland Singh, Canada 🇨🇦
He is one of the rare, hard to find honest mechanic that doesn't try to sugar coat anything.
@@mrvang8077 - I couldn't agree, more: you are absolutely RIGHT ❣❣ Roland Singh, Canada 🇨🇦
Well said Roland
Thanks for the information. my 2008 sienna with 200k miles, i bought it a year ago. it used to make a horrible loud rattling sound on warm startup. I do not notice any rattling in the morning or when the engine is cold, starts really smooth. That warm startup rattle used to bother me so much, i tried using different brand oils and filters. Toyota oil filter and mobil1 0w30 absolutely improved it. it rarely rattles now, and when it does its for a split second barely can hear it.
Exact my problem 👍🏼
I thought there was a recall on that?
Please do a video on replacing the VVTi gear
Awesome and detailed explanation of this issue! I have an 09' Matrix 2zr-fe with almost 260k miles that rattles every time I start it. Had this issue for the past 150k+ miles and also burns oil like a motherf*cker. I always change the oil every 3-5k and top off every week of driving. Great little car in general but this is something that Toyota should've addressed and fully reimbursed.
@Kamil Zieba darnit! 1ZZ-FE engine would have been not the oil burner. I have an 06' Matrix with 1ZZ & it is fabulous even though it's been used daily for 16 years, & racing for the last 3 years. No overhauls ever. Looking forward to the next 300,000 km of driving, keeping fluids clean & maintenance.
Screen filter for vvt ?
tried pre-oiling yet to see if it 🛑the bad habits? or not a usable idea?
My 09 corolla use to rattle sometimes if it was a cold morning. I noticed once i changed the oil it went away. I recently got the car so it was the first time ive changed it since I owned it and its seemed to have cleared it up. I didnt go cheap on the oil though. I put 0w-20 mobil 1 EP HM and oem filter. My buddy was suggesting if it came back to add some atf to the oil to clean up the vvti sysytem.
@@biohazarddream710no need to add ATF. You can shorten the oil change intervals because they have detergents in oil. Quick short changes can act as a flush. I've even kept the same oil filter on the 2nd quick change.
I love you mannn - keep making Toyota specific vids!!! This is the best explanation of how the VVTI mechanism works! Thanks for your content!
Thanks for the clear explanation on how this system works. My wife's 2015 Rav 4 does the rattle after a cold start. It drives me crazy!!
I spend a couple of days going on long drives at high revs to work the vvt-i system on 2005 Celica Red Edition. Definitely a difference and I highly recommended this cheap service of the system every few weeks. Thankyou for sharing your knowledge and blessings, it's appreciated 😎
Wow, this was an important video and very good education... as 2009 sienna owner, i'll be listening for this! I hope our local toyota techs are as good as you.
I have been going through some adventures with my 2007 Camry. It's been making tapping noise intermittently sometime when accelerates and sometime when the gas pedal is released. I had it taken to the mechanic that I have been taking to the last ten years. They thought it was leaking oil and changed the valve cover gasket that they changed just a few years ago. Now I know how they are and I will never take the car back to them. They said they couldn't find out what happened and told me to take it to the dealer. The dealer said it has to do with the VVT gear and told me I should change all of them for about $8K. I found a new mechanic shop. This mechanic seems to be a very nice guy and told me since the tapping is not ongoing it should not have to do anything with the engine and the sound is coming from the dash. They did an engine flush and the car actually runs better but the tapping sound still comes up. I am praying that there is no issues with the VVT gears. Amd, if you happened to read this, I hope you can give me your option. God Bless!
Wife's 2011 Rav4 2.5 had this rattle for about 3 years now and it would still have it if it wasn't for this video opening my eyes. Car starts up like it did brand new again. Thank you for this awesome video and please keep them coming! Love this channel!
What did you do? Take it for replacement?
@@scoobyrex247 took it to the dealership. Would've done it myself but I currently don't have the means. TSB t-sb-0041-13 addresses the issue.
@@scoobyrex247 Right? I hate these comments that are basically click bait.......
I had start up rattle and engine rattle at all times never really though much of there being a difference but the start up rattle went away and higher revs the nocking sound went away so just finished replacing the intake cam gear, also tried doing it with the chain cover on, crank shaft slipped so i pulled everything went to put the valve cover back on and noticed the exhaust gear looked funny one side was higher thought it was becuase of the shape of the spring didnt think much of it went to clean up the chain cover and the exhaust has been grinding away my valve cover, ive just bought this off this guy they where having marrige problems and the wife took off and months later came in the shop with a litter of oil left in her, messed up all those pins in the cam gear, keep up the videos!, started it up she sounds brand new! God bless you
I have a 2007 Corolla with 76K miles. It has been garaged all its life and is, as they say, in “mint” condition. I am Obsessed with keeping it clean and with oil changes. I guess I have been doing all the right things without really knowing why.😊
Watching from the Philippines 🇵🇭.
Thanks for sharing your thoughts and knowledge to us.
This was helpful because it showed and explained all of the systems.
One thing that would be super helpful would be to display what in layman’s terms is the engine you are talking about. For example
If you said the C-3PO QG7 or what have you, if you could display in the corner 3.0
And what year and models .
Because we have no idea the names of these engines.
But extremely helpful, thanks so much.
We buy a lot of Toyotas and this was really helpful
I have a 2010 Sienna with the 2GR-FE engine. It has 235,000 km and has been trouble free. A huge thanks for the heads up. I will check with the dealer about
I have the 2AR. The intake cam gear has been replaced twice under warranty and it still does it. Unfortunately, the part hasn't been updated so they keep replacing a defective part with another one, lol.
how long does it do the rattle? My 2012 camry does the rattle at cold start for 1-2 seconds. I started using Liqui Moly 0w-20 oil and it only does the rattle for a half second even at very cold starts. Now that it's warmer weather, maybe for a quarter second. I should also mention it is very vital that oil on these engines should be replaced every 5k miles or sooner depending on the driving conditions. Toyota engines are very picky about intervals. If you live anywhere that gets cold enough to have snow, stick with the "severe" interval, which is 5k miles.
A half a second rattle😂😂😂, dude the quick rattle on start up is not a problem, once it stops your ok 👌, I’ll have to get my stopwatch and time mine in my Lexus is300h…
@@hadi8561 Tell that to the Toyota dealers who will only do two 10K mi interval oil changes over the two years of the free Toyota Care service.
@@whoknows8678 I’m concerned about this too. My 2010 RX350 has always had synthetic oil changes once every 10,000 miles per the guidelines/manual. I’ve had the car since brand new so next month will be 12 years that I’ve had it. Now I’m starting to think I may need to start changing the oil every 5000 instead of 10,000 miles🤔
Hi! The 2AR makes a quick rattle that can be normal and not to be mistaken for a VVTi rattle
I’m going through the same ordeal on my Nissan Micra. Funnily enough I already started tapping the thread into the outside solenoid that’s stuck in the block. I’ll resume work on it tomorrow but wanted to see if the internet had any other ideas too. Great video man, thanks for sharing either way.
Man, I wish I was where you are. I would definitely come to your shop. I'm going to change both of my VVT gears on my daughter's 2010 Camry SE 2AR-FE engine. Hopefully, I can do it without pulling the engine. 2nd I don't see anybody saying anything about any gaskets when putting the covers back on. And thirdly are the 2 VVT solenoids the same on the top cover? Thanks for your videos man. What a wealth of knowledge
Such a beautiful way of explaining the technical aspects.
Love from India.
Thank you for another very informative video. Not very mechanic is created equal. You are an extraordinary knowledgeable & skillful mechanic with high morals and highest work ethics. As part of my maintenance of my 2004 Lexus LS 430, currently it is at 230,000 miles, I plan to have all front & rear suspension components changed with OEM components. I wish I live in the same city as yours, so I can have you work on it. My car is always being serviced by my local Lexus dealership. Again, even at the dealership, not all mechanics are created equal. To be honest, from my experience over the years, there are few very lazy mechanics working there. Few months ago, I had my 5000-mile oil changed, the mechanic did not place back all the grommets for the bottom cover. As I was on my long road trip, on the freeway, part of the bottom cover came off & was dragging on the freeway. By the time I got off the freeway safely to check what the loud noice was, almost half of the cover was missing, while the remaining hanging piece was still dragging on the road. I had to buy some duck tape & go under the car to tape up the hanging portion. Even when I got back home and had a new cover put on by the dealership. My regular service advisor and I were just happened to check under the car just before I leave the dealership to find out the the mechanic who worked on the new cover replacement had at least six holes missing grommets. My advisor had to take my car back in to ensure all holes have a grommets in it. If we did not check, I may have the same problem again driving down the freeway.
I took my off on every car. No need to have them there beside the front. Not those hanging all the way back to the exhaust pipe, pointless.
I say this is because I work on my own car, thorough my life, everyone are no issues.
But since you said you have dealership and shop work on your car. The last thing any mechanic want to to see is cover grommets under the car. A hassle to remove and a hassle to put back on. Remove for their sake or anyone plan to work on it. Trust me.
My 2011 RAV4 is taking care of me for sure. 5000 mile oil change. Some cold start rattle that disappears, very interesting thank you ...
Excellent. Thank you. Much needed overview and reminders for DIYers like me. It is in the details where the truth shines.
Learned a lot about VVT-i today. This channel deserves more than just a subscribe.
I bought a 2008 Highlander with the 3.5 V6 and 180k miles. About a year after I got it I started getting that very brief rattle, but it would also do it sometimes even when the car was warm. I saw a Scotty Kilmer video that said sometimes the sound can actually be timing chain rattle because the chain tensioner is “oil driven”, and if the tensioner gets clogged up from dirt, lack of maintenance, and so on so that the tensioner does not get enough oil pressure in it right away. He advised trying the ATS oil treatment and changing the oil. I did that and changed to full synthetic. That was 8 months ago and the sound is gone and has not come back.
th-cam.com/video/F7WwSl46tL8/w-d-xo.html
@michael hajba well there ya go! ATS is great stuff!
My 2GR-FE engine always does rattle being hot…
I would use an engine flush every oil change too , Liqui-Moly or Amsoil .
Well, our 2008 highlander variable valve timing actuator lost a bolt at about 110k, and we ended up spending 6k on a used engine. Now, we're at 240k and it is still doing fine. But, 6k for a used motor - if mine rattled, I'd bring it in! The other things that messed up on that 2008 are external oil lines at the bottom front of the motor ($60 and an hour to change) and one other external line up near the valve cover - can't remember the cost of that, but less than $100, and easy to change. Both leaked, but we caught it before the motor lost all oil pressure, by some luck.
my 2tr-fe 4 Cylinder has the same rattle at cold start sometimes
This man is honest and yes the vvti system is very delicate and it needs babied.
Excellent !! Thanks for taking the time to create such an informative and in-depth video which explains the issue and the preventive actions. Wow…
Much appreciated the video on the VVT-i system,Amd. Your explanation of the timing chain was very useful. Thank you.
Thank you for the outstanding video. I am having two loud knocks on start up on my 2012 RAV4. I am pretty sure this is the problem even though it sounds different from the soundbite in the video. The Rav I have is one of the VINs affected.
Thanks for a great video! My 2013 Camry with 2AR 4-cyl rattles for exactly 1 second upon cold start. Engine has 160K mi and has always done it. What should I do?....this is a GREAT engine in all respects!
Hi! It might be a long question with background.
I bought ES350 2009 @ 223K miles few months ago. At the time of purchase tests showed P0011, P0012, P0013, P0015, P0016, P0017, the engine is rebuilt, but there was no active issue. Although there was 1-3 seconds upto a minute of rattling sound on start (cold, hot and sometimes while waiting at a red light) but it wasn’t bothering.
It had 5W30 in it then at the time of engine service the lubes shop employee advised me to go for 20W50 coz the engine was old. My bad I listened to him, and from the time I started the engine after changing the oil, I felt something off. Engine felt heavy, it took effort to run and mild vibration on idling.
The next morning when I started the car the rough idling was wayyy more. The RPM was dancing, low and high on its own. The car wants to let go if I keep breaks on at D and shakes like engine wants to shutdown. Since then it comes and goes away as it wills. There is no check engine light. Since last 2 days the AC compressor doesn’t switch on if I’m waiting at D. As soon as I switch to N it starts cooling and sometimes it doesn’t work on P either. Don’t know if it’s connected with the engine issue or not.
My mechanic told me everything is coz of the VVT gears and timing chain. The chain needs adjust only or maybe change of gears.
I checked it again yesterday with a scanner at the workshop and it gave P0011 & P0016 only.
He’s adamant that solenoids and sensors are fine as there is no check engine light.
All the TH-cam videos I saw, they keep VVT to be the last thing wrong but my mechanic is going the other way around. He didn’t check the connections, the sensors or solenoids.
PLEASE TELL ME WHAT SHOULD I DO?
I’m sorry it’s too long, but I had to explain. Thanks in advance.
This is also common problem on 2.4 L Honda engines, VTC actuator rattles on cold start. It is especially more noticeable during winter times
yep, same issue with my crv, irony is when the oil got older, the noise went away, came back with fresh oil.
@@saeedhossain6099my guess is older oil becomes less viscous so it’s faster to be pump
@@FerasAlhawas the issue with the honda vtc actuator is that as the engine cools down the oil that is suppose to normally stay in the actuator leaks back into the oil pan, and the rattle occurs at start up for the oil pressure to come up to the head. often the symptom occurs in winter on the 2.4l. the older oil is thicker so is less likely to leak down
@@saeedhossain6099I've been working through this issue on my CR-V for a while. I've replaced the spring and worked over the locking pin to allow it to move in and out freely.
It made the rattle much quieter and shorter, but will still rattle after twice as much time transpires as before.
Before I had it quieted down with a new spring and smoother out pin, on a cold start in 15* F weather, it did not rattle at all.
My rattle has occurred in all temps, but most notable is that within a window of time (now increased), the rattle is gone after the first start.
If I wait about 4 hours now (was as soon as one hour) it will be back.
My 2010 Accord EX 2.4 L with 120k miles just started making that VTC noise on morning starts in the colder Nov to April weather, or if it's been sitting over 4 hours. I change the oil every 5k with good hi-mileage syn oil. Guess I need to take it in soon. Should replace the spark plugs and check the valves while they are in it.
18:54 i n my dad love our 2012 fortuner, got a 2tr vvt-i and its so tough, after the engine being used up since 2012 till 2021, when we checked the health of the engine after using it for nearly 200k KMs, it still showed 80% health!! toyota is something more than what it is ❤
Great info AMD !! Much insight here as always. Thank you for your efforts helping us understand taking care of the car in the real world.
This man is the king of vvt. Thank you
Thank you for sharing this. Very informative. What is the typical cost to change the VVTI gear through Toyota?
2014 Tacoma 2.7l VVTi. Cold starts in the winter makes a knocking noise for maybe 15 seconds at the most. The audio sample you played at 7:45 sounded nothing like what im hearing. i got it new in the fall of 2013. Always maintained, 104K miles. Love your stuff. Great job.
Hi AMD, great video! I have a '10 Corolla LE 1.8L with about 120k. I don't think I have the VVTi rattle at cold starts, however I get a screeching belt noise at cold starts. I got my serpentine belt replaced at 90k like back in 2018. The first time the mechanic didn't tighten it enough and sounded like it was slipping. Then I had a toyota shop tighten it per spec. However, it still get a screeching sound on cold starts. This is on a dayco 5060485 belt. When I originally bought the car in in 2010 from the dealer, I used to get the screeching sound with the toyota belt. However, this would only happen in the mornings when it was very cold in South Florida, which is rare. Now with the Dayco, belt it doesn't matter whether the weather is cold or not. The screeching noise just typically happens on cold starts. I notice if I put the key in the ignition and don't start immediately and move the key back and forth before the start, sometimes this action prevents the screeching noise. Any thoughts? The Toyota shop that tightened it previously said that if the belt keeps making the noise, then just replace it.
About the key part. I read some where About not starting immediately but a I haven't got someone to explain it fully.
I can’t speak to that but I always use a Toyota belt , it’s $2 more and worth it to me
You're the best!, you saved me from buying unnecessary parts.🙌
My sister had a 2009 RAV4 with a 2.5L engine that I always changed the oil every 3 to 5000 miles and it still had the problem. She eventually traded it for a 2018. If these were production problem issues why didn’t Toyota cover these. I have a 2013 RAV4. I noticed if it sits for 2 weeks, there is a very brief light rattle sound. Can I assume this is normal since all of the oil is in the pan? This is similar to the first start when you just changed your oil.
I have a 2012 Camry 2arfe with this rattle when it starts. Do you have a video on how to replace the vv assembly. Thanks for all your videos I recommend them to all my friends.
Great video and I really appreciate all you do.
Great guide. My engine made same noise and my mechanic advice a change so we did and can't hear it again. You just thought me what was really happening.
My old 2009 1.8L Corolla has this issue randomly for over a decade. 5w30 synthetic since new and now has well over 500,000km and doesn't burn oil measurably. Apparently it doesn't affect longevity too much. Oil change @10K km, religiously.
That’s the wrong oil type…
@@christophervanzetta it's correct depend where the OP lives. Other places like Canada or cooler climate, yes you are correct.
I’ve been using 0W20 in my ‘10 Corolla for the last 12 years and 220k km on the car no problem at all with the engine and still quiet and smooth like brand new
@@christophervanzetta been running 0w20 always mobile or penzoil always factory filter. Changed at 5k oci in my 2012 1.8 corolla since new. And at 140k miles it rattles on most every start and burns a quart per 10k. Though i dont care i change it at 5k still half way on the dipstick. (Granted ive treated the little red rolla like a rental rocket f1 rally dragster for its whole life) she just wont quit
@@christopherhuynh6889 i do the same on my 09 corolla 0w20 synthetic at every 8-9k miles.. i have 267k miles on my toyota still purrs like a kitten with no gear rattle. The squeel i get is from the starter on cold days
Drop the oil pan an see if the oil pump pick up tube's screen is clogged. Mine was about 70% clogged due to the fiber drive gear on the balancer shaft wearing over time and the material going to the bottom of the pan and clogging the pick up tube. I also replaced the balancer shafts because that fiber final broke and the balancer shafts were no longer being driven or engaged with the main crank shaft of the engine.
Good advice. What engine do you have 2GR FE ?
2009 2azfe. The engine that has oil consumption issues. Most use 1 quart every 1000 miles. Mine was about half that.
Very informative! Thanks for the video.
You're so right about the Toyota timing chains versus other makes of timing chains. My Camry with the 2.5 timing chain is $172. The timing chain for my Lincoln Town Car with the 4.6 v8 timing chain costs a rediculous $30 from the dealer.
Great video Ahmed! It’s too bad Toyota and Honda’s can’t prime the engine with oil prior to starting the engine, like all domestic brands can. At least the domestics can alleviate symptoms with flood mode.
how does an American car prime the oil without starting
@@billdeason6212 hold the brake and gas pedal all the way down to the floor at the same time, while trying to turn over the engine. This is called "flood mode"
so you hold the gas pedal and brake at same time, while turning on the engine? I have a push to start highlander@@youngb1ood
Old Jeep 4.0 engines did this by not enabling the injectors until the ECM sees 2 full crankshaft rotation. Good design, and likely why those engines last so long.
Thank you so much for your explanation and video. I have 2015 Corolla with 2zr fe engine. On cold startup, it sometimes make a rattling noise, kinda like a loose muffler clamp. In fact, I kinda thought that’s what it was (until I saw this video). Therefore I didn’t complain to dealer. Always went away after couple of seconds. I change oil every 5k miles or 6 months. Engine has only gone couple times to 10k miles before oil change. Car was a rental at a dealer. Engine now has about 162k miles. Doesn’t burn any oil. Have always used mobile one synthetic.
What parts do I need to change vvt gear?
Thank you and keep up the great work. Your videos are great and I wish you the best in your new endeavors with your shop. 😀
Hello, my 2015 corolla makes a rattling noise but when is very hot I believe is something to do with this vvti, it doesn't make it at cold start perhaps because where I live it doesn't get that cold. The sound comes and goes like a tac tac tac and when I accelerate it goes faster, what did you find out that your vehicle had?
Good information and advice! Appreciate you making these educational videos 👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼
Thank you .... for new knowledge and saving many toyotas from going to the junk prematurely
I just bought a 2019 toyota highlander 2.7 liter dual vvt-i engine with 32,000. Should I change oil every 5,000 miles even with synthetic oil?
If you watch his older videos on maintenance. He says to replace oil every 5000 miles or 6 months, whichever comes first. And he shows Toyota oil, which is synthetic oil. I would just do every 5000 miles and avoid a future headache from not doing so.
Thank you for your videos. I have learned so much from you. Just replaced the oil cooler line in my 2007 Sienna yesterday after watching your video on the subject. Instructions were detailed and perfect! My daughter's 2014 RAV4 has the cold start engine rattle (every day) but I don't quite have the confidence to tackle that. Being from the south, your shop is not an option for us. Do you think most dealer technicians know how to correctly check and replace the cam gears guides? Thanks again!
Hello Mr Car Care! I hope you can do a repair video on replacing the faulty mechanisms for the 2ZR-FE and related family of engines on Corollas!
I wish I would've known this at the time. I might be swapping an engine
Cool to see the actual parts
Another realy nice and educational video! I love it!
Looks it's been filmed in the new shop.
He is absolutely right bad cam gear can destroy the engine but the timing chain tensioners also go bad if these items are replaced your in good shape and Please use OEM Toyota parts not the crap off eBay
i heard this once, 2 months ago on my 1zr-fe engine on fairly new 1500km 10w 30 Amzoil, on my 2015 altis doing 57000km, i already knew what it was from the start so i'm just waiting to hear it a few more times then i'll fix the problem
Thank you! Finally you addressed this issue. Its definetelly a bad design, experienced even on very low milleage engines. On Europe Toyota/Lexus ignores this and has no service buletin for this as in US. Anyway, this was a disapointment for my trust on Toyota, and certainly will never buy a VVTi engine again. Better stick with 1HD-FTE and 5SFE engines than hybrids with vvtis, nothing like the old engineering to last a life.
@Lp Lp my 06' Matrix has never had VVT-i issues like what you're mentioning. Also, the ATS oil system cleaner can fix the VVT-i rattle sometimes. I could explain it more if you want
@@Blakecryderman7244 can you explain please ,2004 1.6 vvti Corolla
I try not to start the engine as often unless I have to. Oil changes are a must
I am the same way…👍
Hello AMD,Thank´s for the very detailed explanation.As you stated.,Oil change is everithing to get an long lasting and reliable engine,As an Toyota mechanic I see it all the time.micro filters clogged by sludge on many engines specially on the 1ZZ and the 1GRFE .Sometimes because the low quality oil some people buy and some times cause the customer never changes the oil altogether..When the car arrives at my shop it sounds like an electric typewriter at full work,je je.I think people should read more their user manual as to learn about sheduled maintenance intervals and follow that recomendation.As allways,keep up the excelent work.
Is it true that Toyota oil is Mobil 1 oil?
Yes it is
It’s made by Mobile 1 to Toyota specs
Another phenomenal video. I feel like I just went to Toyota Technician school. Well done sir!
Hello AMD. I noticed that you don’t mark every positive comment anymore. I guess you are way too busy nowadays and besides there are plenty of excellent videos on TH-cam on your channel, however thank you very much for yet another brilliant tutorial. I asked you in a comment for another video some time back about rattling on my 2GR-FE installed on 2008 RX350.In my case rattle happen on hot start, not on cold one. I noticed same in couple of comments from fellow viewers too. Since dismantling and inspection is too expensive, could you please give your professional opinion on rattle when engine is hot? Thank you 🙏
Hey AMD, thanks for sharing your deep pool of knowledge. I have a question please.
I have a used 2010 RX 350 and I am concerned about the problem you mentioned at 13:35
Does this noise you mentioned stays even after the engine is warmed up or does it go away?
My car has a clicking/squeaking noise (my guess is belt pulleys) for first 1-2 mins on a cold start but slowly goes away and then no unusual noises. I am going to get it looked at the next service but I am concerned after watching this video. Can you please help me? Thank you and bless you for educating millions like myself. Much love
I’d say you’re right about the pulleys.
I've taken apart a Volvo VVT gear and it contained a tiny orifice, no more than .030" in diameter. If you have a VVT equipped vehicle it's essential to use a high quality synthetic oil. If you have the start-up rattle install a high detergent oil like Pennzoil Platinum and you may get lucky. Then change your oil frequently until your engine is internally clean. Toyota dealers use dino oil unless you request a synthetic which you may or may not get.
I had a 2ZR-FE (2009 Pontiac Vibe) that does this on every cold start. What I found is that if I turn my key to ON without igniting for 5 seconds (about the same time for the airbag light to turn off), then ignite the engine, the dreadful noise disappears. I do this on every start and never heard the noise again.
WHY? There is NO oil movement with just the key on. What do you think is happening?
@@chrisluquette1615 Honestly, I have no clue… I read this in a forum somewhere and thought giving it a try and it worked for me. My initial thought is that perhaps some components of the VVTi is controlled electronically by the ECU and that the first 5 sec of ignition has a lot of power draw (from all the system checks etc) and somehow it interferes with that.
One of the best channels for Toyota lovers 😊
I have the A25 engine in my 2020 RAV4.
I've been using Mobil One 0W-16. The oil is changed every 6 months. From Nov 2019 till now the vehicle has 9200+ miles on it and it runs GREAT!
Remember this. OIL IS CHEAP, ENGINES ARE EXPENSIVE ! ! !
It's not only the timing chain and gear parts, it's the wear and tear on piston rings, on crankshaft and camshaft bearings, on connecting rod bearings and MANY other rotating parts!
OIL IS CHEAP! ENGINES ARE EXPENSIVE ! ! !
I own a Sienna 2013 FWD with 287000 Miles, the rattling is about 4 secs started occasionally now is a daily thing, I replaced the small cone filter from the oil feed line, PCV valve and VVT valves no improvement, doesn't consume oil just waiting for better prices to upgrade has been a loyal work horse.
Thanks for posting this my 14’ RAV4 made that sound every morning.
He’s right my brother tried to change timing chain on his 300k miles Tacoma & the dealer asked why he wanted to change it, he told well it got 300k it should b about time & dealer told him Toyota timing chains are built to last a life time
I love all your videos and have learned a lot. I have a question about my 2007 RAV4 AWD Sport with the 3.5 2 GR FE engine with 160k miles on it. Every once in a while when I start it, makes the rattle noise you talk about for a couple of seconds. Sometimes it will go a few weeks before making the sound then may do it twice in a week. I change the oil every 5k miles and the engine does not use any oil between oil changes. The oil never even gets dirty between changes. Is my engine doomed?
Any update on this? Has it gotten worse?
No it hasn't gotten any worse. I have 180k miles on it now and it only rattles maybe once a month.@@adrianknelsen
@@rondebruyn9583 gotcha, thanks for the info. My Lexus does it every time it's been sitting for more than 2 hours 😭
My 2008 Highlander at t 128k just started the rattle, and I'm getting a P0302 misfire code on Cyl. 2. I assume the two issues are related (replaced plug and swapped coils, still cyl 2 P0302). Gotta say, the prospective cost of fixing the VVTi (engine out of the car) could pay for a LOT of in-car maintenance on any other vehicle. I can't agree, if this is common for this engine, that this is a reliable engine if I have to shell out $5-$6,000 for the repair.... doubt I'll do that... sell it needing a repair and get something else. Not happy, bob... not happy. Though, after owning the car and seeing car-care-nut, these are the BEST DYI fixit car videos out there... hands down no question.
Outstanding as usual!! Thanks so much. Would love to see more 4Runner videos if you get the chance to work on one outside the shop!!
I love seeing them also I have a 2018 Trd off road. They are built unbelievably well. I take meticulous care of mine. I want it to last a very long time.
My 2019 Camry SE has made the same noises not long after I purchased it. I took it to the dealer back in 2019 and was told it was fine and nothing to worry about. Mind you a shared the videos I took. Well fast to today (June 8, 2022). I took more videos, which I shared again. Proof of rattle like you shared as well a a higher pitched rattle whining type noise. The dealer said it was fine and 100% normal. I stated the noise lasts for sometimes for minutes before it stops, after sitting overnight. I was told that the system is smart and that it was a process that the engine goes through some kind of cleaning process. That NO sense. Anyway it has been documented twice now. By the way I now have 35k miles. I even told them I wanted to make sure imthe car was ok because was going on. Trip 3k round trip. Hope all will be fine.
BTW I change my oil no more than 5k miles, of course synthetic oil, and no more than 6 months.
Thoughts??
I bought a 13 Camry with 70k miles that now has 109k miles. It has the startup rattle. I believe the oil drains back to the pan overnight due to two reasons, the low position of oil filter on the engine and the fact that the cartridge style oil filter has no check valve. I believe this causes a slight delay in oil pressure at startup. That being said I added about 16 ounces of Marvels Mystery Oil last weekend due to the oil being a half quart low. I always use Penzoil synthetic oil. I’m due for an oil change in less than 400 miles. As a tech I don’t like to use oil additives oil any oil flush. But have heard only positive things about MMO. In one week the noise has decreased to just a half second! BTW Marvels recommends to replace up to 20% of your oil capacity with MMO.
Your said it is only doing it a half of a second now. How long was it doing it before, because mine makes a rattle until the car warms up, but only in cold (below 45 degrees) startups
th-cam.com/video/QgQ8QqXotEk/w-d-xo.html this may be helpful for you
Everything is good when you are a nice person. Very nice presentation. God bless you.
I've tried to change oil viscosity. Going to a 10w 35 Instead of 10w 30 and it kinda helps.
Tbh I've had that cold start rattle for 3 years now. My 08 Lexus es350 is perfectly fine. So besides it being a slight annoyance it seems to be a non issue.
Update: I've always done on time oil changes and I try to use royal purple so I guess Its helping prevent my engine from blowing up lol. And if that's the case. Thank goodness cause I can't afford to replace this.
I've had it for years too. It's not a problem until the day it's a *huge* problem :)
@@grantmcinnes1176 cheers to us 🥂
@@MiguelRPD I mean, whatcha gonna do?
I got a 12 year old Corolla with US North East rust, some road rash donated by a parking lot side swiper, and a fender held together with zip ties. It's worth less than 4k. Doesn't make economic sense to fix it.
If this is what finally ends it, I won't feel like it owes me a penny.
@@grantmcinnes1176 exactly. I'd just do the basic maintenance and keep going.
Thank you for your videos AMD! We appreciate what you doing. Have a blessed day as well!
Morning start is the best time to diagnose the Engine
I bought my 2007 Yaris new based on it had a timing chain instead of a Belt like all the other small cars at the time.
It was a good decision.