Think yourself lucky you haven’t spent £380 on a scuff like I did and it just started randomly drifting and no matter what I do cleaning wise it needs changed but I have no clue how to do it myself and I don’t wanna break the controller completely
Mate i gotta say there must be a 100 videos online about this yours truly and i mean truly stand above the rest! Great narration in the video, perfect camera work, great little tips and tricks specially with the 2.5k value u mentioned!!!! Huge W! If i could like twice I would u a legend!
I was in the middle of trying to fix my controller, it turned out I don't have any soldering tools. And this is actually a pretty common issue, I don't know why it's not talked about as much, it's a defective design. Consumers shouldn't have to take apart their controller to avoid paying $80 for a new one. Sony should honestly be sued for this
@@dawens3199 unfortunate, but you can get all the soldering tools you need for it plus the replacement sticks for half the price of a new controller which is what I did.
@@dawens3199It is a bummer on the initial investment, but once you've learned the skill and get good with all the tools, they end up paying for themselves many times over across their lifetime. I made so many repairs with a $6 soldering iron when I was younger, it was terrible but got the job done and saved me so much money vs replacing stuff. Eventually bought a nicer $60 iron, a hot air rework station, and some "helping hands" to improve my setup, as the investment was worth how much easier it made the process.
I hear ya, this is obviously for people confident and competent enough to do such a thing, I been thinking about trying it if my sticks fail. I'm picky about having good sticks and buttons, I installed the extreme rate paddles on a couple controllers so I have part of this down already. You can get a pack of 4 joysticks for like $8
What an excellent tutorial! Didn’t rush through the steps and very well explained. And thanks for linking the parts you used, I definitely would have gone the Amazon route just to find out the hard way it was the wrong part. Much appreciated!
I need to get a solder and learn how to solder I’m tired of spending $75 every 3 months on a new PS5 controller I constantly get stick drift I had my PS5 since release and I’m on my 8th controller now
Nice clear tutorial thanks. Just had a go on my drifting left stick (it took about 2 hours longer than your video though). It's a massive pain with a handheld solder vacuum, I ended up having to carefully crush the old component with pliers just to get the pins out one by one. Finally get it all back together and... the stick doesn't work at all 😢 AND it's somehow *still* drifting despite not getting any input from the stick! Sony's done a bad job with these controllers...
Yea, without a vacuum desoldering gun it’s not an easy task. I don’t know what advice to give. It the center pin of a potentiometer is open or the trace to it is damage. That could cause it to drift and for that axis to not have any effect. Does either axis have any effect on the joystick you changed?
A lot of times, just replacing the white little pieces of the thumbstick slots does the trick. On my ps5 controller I had terrible stick drift, so i had sprayed them with electrical cleaner and got my thumbstick to work again. After a month the drift came back. I swapped the white pieces from the vertical to the horizontal and sure enough the drift was now the vertical. I just swapped the piece and now the controller works perfect. No soldering needed.👍
@SGVSOUTHSIDE eBay, I got 6 for only £4. I've fitted two into the left analog stick which was pulling to the left, cleaned the whole stick with contact cleaner and it's cured the drift. The only thing is now there is a very slight click/notchy feeling when the stick is moved to the right like something is not quite seated correctly, or something is rubbing inside the actual moving parts of the joystick. I think the PS5 joystick parts are cheap rubbish, made from poor quality plastic and built to fail, meaning you'll buy a new controller every time, making more money in controller sales. Just my opinion.
Hi, I replaced both controllers and still have drift. Could you share a link to these "little white pieces" that you've used from eBay? Cheers. @@stephennoble2647
8:22 To anybody who hasn't had to do this yet, be careful when removing and replacing these flexes, the tiny traces can bend and cause the whole pad to not turn on
Great video. As an observation: i think sony is using high temperature soldering alloy. With my soldering iron i was not able to melt the material holding pins even with 400 degree set
Put a new extreme tension stick on my bdm 020, but it pulls max hard to the left... So i got another stick module to replace, and that ones doing the same thing... I think maybe i damaged the board somehwo? It doesnt look like ot but idk what else it could be. Not sure if i should cut my losses or get a new main pcb for the controllwr (47$) and then redo it? ... Ugh. Feels kinda hopeless.. i had a hell of a time with desoldering... Ended up using flat cutters to chop the pins on the opposite side, then pull module off then clesr holes with my crappy desolder plunger and wick. 🙄 I ordered a vacuum desolderer, so that should help. Is it even worth paying 50 when i can get a new controller for like 70? Ugh i feel lost and cant find a resource for help anywherw on resdit or on forums
If it's at maximum left, then that means probably 0 volts going to the processor. Do you have a multimeter? If so, check the voltage on the pins of the left-right potentiometer. The left pin should be ground, the center pin should be around 0.9 volts, and the right pin should be 1.8 volts. If the 1.8 is missing, then you know it's the trace to that pin. You can run a thin wire from the other 1.8-volt up-down potentiometer pin. If the center pin does have about 0.9 volts on it, it's probably the trace back to the processor. That one is much harder to run a jumper on.
5:30 Hi I have a qn, does the 2.3K potentiometer work as a replacement for the 2.1K one? Will the difference in value affect anything or must you get one as close as possible to the original number?
Yes, the tolerance is so loose on these that a 2.3K might measure below 2K and a 2.1K might measure above 2.3K. But if you are planning on replacing the potentiometers you might want to look at using the new K-Silver or GuliKit TMR joysticks.
@metalplasticelectronics354 oh alright. I have 2 controllers and when I measured the resistance of all potentiometers one controller gave a reading of 520 Ohms while the other only gave 160 Ohms. Is there any reason to explain why the 2 values are so far off from 2k?
Are you measuring them in the circuit? They should all read about 500 ohms in the circuit, not sure why one would read differently. If that is two different controllers one might still have a little voltage on the 1.8 volt line throwing off the resistance reading.
Anyone know of a place in DFW that can do this kind of repair? I have only found one place that claims to do these repairs but they want $60 to do it which is about as much as a new DualSense.
Replaced the left stick and it's stuck going to the left. Not sure what I could of done wrong but man it's a moral deflation knowing I messed up somewhere😞
ONE IMPORTANT QUESTION/PROBLEM, i replaced the right module on my bdm 030 controller, i had serious stickdrift and it got fixed, EXCEPT now it is SLIGHTLY is off centre (10%↗️). Why is this happening?
Thank you for sharing. It helps a lot listening to someone who have knowledge of electronic repairs. There are too many E waste already with Sony being one of the culprit. Why Sony does not use Hall effect stick and save us a lot of trouble of repairing this in the first place. The cost isn't even that high. (This include all the console developer) Kudos on your channel. You are a live saver or is that Earth saver.
Orange potentiometer are 10k but grey ones have no writing on them. I assume they’re 2.3k as later PS4 models use the grey ones too like the PS5 one. I replaced the white part only but it’s marginally of centre so doesn’t go back to dead centre unless it’s flung back itself from max position.
@@metalplasticelectronics354 it moves smoothly. If I let it go back to dead centre itself from max position, it goes to 0%. A gentle push of the joystick and it’ll to back to 2% unless I gently touch the thumb stick then it stays at 0%. Other side of potent. might be worn but soldering is hard.
It may be it is worn somewhat. Might try and recalibrate the controller. Take a look at this: th-cam.com/video/0fK1sapv0YI/w-d-xo.htmlsi=n52R8aQgmtS09jGt.
I replaced left analog on ps4 pad but on my ps5 its impossible to even remove vibration cable. Its too solid... i guess i buy new one and experiment on drifting analog Old one later. Thx for video
I ordered new parts for my controller I replaced the left analog stick because my character walked to the left a lot and it worked it stopped doing it but when i replaced it the right started acting up it the camera started to move to the right I replaced that it sort of fixed it it Went from scrolling to the right to slightly stick drifting to the left please help
Are the replacement potentiometers the right value. Some places selling 10 kohm for the DualSense when they should be 2k. Or the new potentiometer may not be in good shape. I ordered 20 Favor Union joysticks. 1 of the 20 had a potentiometer that was defective.
my first time using a soder, what temperature should I have it on? I dont want to mess up anything, I also bought a solder sucker, does that require anything special?
I bought potentiometers from an amazon listing that didnt specify the value that you show on the multimeter they ship tomorrow I wonder if we bought from the same listing but the brand does say alps. could I just replace the disc thing itself? is there a name for that disc thing?
If your replacing alps for alps, then you don’t have to remove then entire joystick. Can just remove the three leaded potentiometer element and replace it. It just clips in the joystick metal frame.
Depends on where it’s broken at. If it’s still long enough to reach to the PC board, then just strip a bit of the insulation off the wire and solder it back. If it broke at the haptic motor, I don’t know if they can be gotten into without tearing them up. If the wire is still there, just too short. Will need a bit of small wire to extend it. Be best to have some small heat shrink tubing, but some electrical tape will work as well. Want to make sure where the wires are joined don’t short to anything. Good luck.
So for every TH-cam video I’ve watched, replacing the joystick works and no adjustments need to be done, yet every single time I replace the joysticks, they are off center, sometimes by 20% or more, am I doing something wrong? Frying the motherboard by heating the holes too much? It’s basically every joystick, I’ll occasionally get one within 5% but never centered, a response would mean the world to me
The replacement is almost never dead center. Is it good enough to use is the thing. And I guess that depends on the user. I do check the resistance of the replacement joystick. If the center value is off by more than 20% I toss that one. In my batch of 20 joysticks I ordered, one was outside that range. If you want it to be aligned as accurately as the original, that’s going to be near impossible. Would have to measure the values of the original pots center offset. And then would have to hunt through probably hundreds of replacements to find a close enough match.
I own 6 of these controller and 3 of them have failed within the first year with heavy use, and the other 3 are new enough that they haven't yet. what a mess.
If you are talking about the joystick modules then not really. They will fit but the potentiometers on the joystick modules are a different value. And it seems to cause centering problems.
Common problem unfortunately... my stock white controller that came with my ps5... also same shit left stick drifting to the left, about 6 months in... should i go with scuf or the pro ps5 controller?... ive already bought a regular black and light blue controller.... and they all drift now
You can, and it’s much easier than replacing the entire joystick module. You just have to get the right potentiometers. The Alps and Favor Union potentiometers are not interchangeable. I go over a couple of ways of removing the potentiometers in this video: th-cam.com/video/slxgHcYHnm8/w-d-xo.html
Could you please tell me the exact model of the vacuum desoldering tool you used in this video? I want to purchase the same one to ensure I get the right tool. if you know of a similar but cheaper model, I'd be interested in that as well. Thank you! :)
It is a very old Hakko 470. It's been discontinued for many years. It's so old I wouldn't even risk one on Ebay. There are quite a few on Amazon around the $150 range. I have no idea how well they work. But they maybe knock offs of the Hakko.
I did the whole josytick replacement now the d-pad only goes to left and the joystick is non-responsive. I checked all the solders nothing seems touching each other. What is the possible cause?
Double check and make sure all the flat flexible cables are plugged in good. Might look closely around the area especially near the ICs, looking for any solder splatter. I don’t know how the D-pad is related to the joysticks.
@@metalplasticelectronics354 Thanks for your reply and video by the way. Not sure if the assembly I bought is defective. It is the same assembly that you use in your video. I will double check it or desolder everything and replace with my other extra parts.
I would run my iron at 750 to 780 F to lead-free. But I prefer tin-lead and mostly run the iron at 720F. Take a look at this video: th-cam.com/video/slxgHcYHnm8/w-d-xo.htmlsi=eI411dALdlSn_ZdE
Should work somewhat but they are different values. Would be best to use the correct joysticks. And if you are going to go to the trouble to replace them why not go with a Hall effect or TMR joystick so you won't have to worry about it again?
Other than trying to get some contact cleaner into the potentiometers. One comment said he was able to replace the potentiometer wiper and it worked. But I think the only way for sure is to replace the joystick module or the potentiometers. And that does require desoldering the old and soldering in the new.
I should get myself a heating pad.. I currently use a frying pan weighed down with a road spike. What I'm wondering is where you got that handy little mount to hold the board in place.
@metalplasticelectronics354 just ordered a similar board holder, and a cheapish desoldering tool! Thanks for the video & link, I ordered extras. Got a controller to fix, I'll probably wind up grabbing extra controllers off marketplace too.
You can cut apart the joystick module with some small side cutters and remove 1 pin at a time. Just be careful not to damage any other parts on the board. There’s some really small capacitors close to the joystick modules. If the hole still has solder in it. Put fresh solder on the pad and try again with the vacuum desolder tool or solder wick to clean the hole out. Can us a small stainless steel needle to push the melted solder out if all else fails.
Hi, so I've just finished completely re-soldering two new joystick assemblies. The new pots were 2.06 kOhm and the old ones 2.2 kOhm. I thought this is probably within tolerence. However, the left joystick still has a constant drift on both axes. Is this a mechanical centering issue, or an resistance mismatch issue. Any ideas?
It wouldn't be resistance, 2.06 is well within tolerance. Did you just change the pots or the entire joystick module? And is if drifting the same way to old ones were?
Hi, OK that's good to know. I changed the whole joystick module, both of them. In the originals the drift was not too bad but they also had bad jumping, which I took to be a sign of track wear on the pots. Now the joysticks are smooth in operation, just with annoying "offset" drift. I thought there might be some kind of calibration adjuster, but seemingly not. I should add, I'm not a gamer, this is all for my teenage son 🙄@@metalplasticelectronics354
I would get some replacement potentiometers and just try replacing the pots again. If you still have the old ones, try and measure the center tap ratio. And look for a new one that is close. As there doesn’t seem to be a way to calibrate the DualSense controller. I think it’s a case of the old pot being off center in one direction and the new pot being off center in the opposite direction. And it’s just too much difference. That’s my best guess.
Hey man, I am a bit late for the party here and a complete noob on anything hardware. I am buying the ioystick replacement, and I don't have any (de)soldering tools nor xp with it. My controler is also the dualsense (not edge). I wanted to ask, do you have any (de)soldering kit that you recommend I buy that are easy on noobs? And, do you think it is possible to follow this tutorial to fix a dualsense? I am not from US/Canada so $200 is an even more absurd price when I convert it into my currency for an Edge controller. Is there any hope whatsoever?
Take a look at this video: th-cam.com/video/slxgHcYHnm8/w-d-xo.htmlsi=LwiXp9nxsWH2mdu1 . It can be done without a lot of expensive equipment. If you have never done any desoldering before I would try and find some scrap PCBs to do a little practice on before tackling the DualSense.
Do you also have clicking sound of the analog sticks when simply moving them slightly into a direction? Only my original dual sense with the console did not do this. It's annoying as hell. And after four replacements I gave up
No, no clicking sound. Did all your replacements come from the same place? Do they make the clicking sound unmounted and do you know what brand they are?
@@metalplasticelectronics354 im not talking about the analog stick replacements. the whole controller was replaced 4 times by sony. even with a new revision controller. take a look at reddit or youtube. this is the worst quality i have ever seen. dualshock 4 made no problems at all with sticks. i have even coil whine with dualsense
Oh I was thinking about the replacement joystick. I went and checked the one I replaced and it makes no noise. But I went back and checked the ones that hadn’t been replace. And they all make a small noise. So I would imagine that would mean the noise is coming from the joysticks they are using. I’ll have to look into a bit more.
@@metalplasticelectronics354 today I could check for the first time in a shop dual sense controller. One controller was fine, the other one had the same issue as mine. Sony's qa seems to be still bad
It may be who makes the joysticks. I've tried 2 alps and both make a sound. I've tried 3 Favor Union and none of those made a sound. But that's not a big trial.
Take a look at the end of this video for most of the tools used, they all came from Amazon: th-cam.com/video/slxgHcYHnm8/w-d-xo.htmlsi=NiM9ROtga82YcapT
Thanks for the video! I have 2 gamepads with the same problem- left joystick drift. Is it possible to use the right joystick as a replacement for the left one? Are they the same?
They are the same. You will be much better off getting a new one to go in the controller; they are very cheap. Take a look at my playlist, "PS5 Controller & Related Items," which will give you a better idea of the options available.
It's a long-discontinued Hakko 470 vacuum desoldering gun. Take a look at this video for some ideas on removing the joystick without one: th-cam.com/video/slxgHcYHnm8/w-d-xo.htmlsi=5N4x1dj0lCTTPnjh
I run my soldering iron at 750F for the lead-free solder. For the vacuum desoldering gun, I run it at maximum, so it is probably around 800F or a bit more.
Is it the joystick shaft that is spinning or something broke loose in the knob? I doubt a glue would hold the joystick shaft so probably have to replace it.
I think you can by just the replacement knobs from Amazon. It will require pulling the PC board out of the controller. But you don't have to unsoldered anything.
@@SuperCarsFromTheHoodDualsense Edge has the exact same problem y'know. At that price range you're better off with a HYPR modified Dualsense with electromagnetic joysticks for a longer joystick lifespan
The few I have replaced have been good to go. I didn't see a calibrate option for the controllers. There is a reset button, but I do not know it that will force a recalibration.
@@metalplasticelectronics354 Got a weird situation with my drift if its even considered it.When I blow into the analog it goes away for a bit then restarts only when I push up,sometimes it doesnt happen for hours then it starts back up,any idea whats going on?
It could be the potentiometer has worn till it’s right on the edge of centering. Could try some electrical contact cleaner on the joystick potentiometer to see if it’s just some loose bits of the resistive element. @@zeokenx2
@@metalplasticelectronics354 That cant be it due to the fact that its not drifting on its own after I stop touching it. If it was directly the potentiometer it would be doing what it did on this video,its been doing it less and less since I blow into it.Seems like to me it was reacting to the dust that got trapped inside of the stick
So I changed the potentiometer to a matching replacement. One side of the whole analog stick potentiometer. Desoldered the 3 legs and soldered. I practiced on an old PS4 controller beforehand. I also desoldered the red and black cables so I could fully remove the PCB. Put back together, the control just continually scrolls left and it seems the whole left analog stick is non reactive. Any clue what might have happened?
Did you just replace the potentiometers? If so make sure center is not 180 degrees out of alignment. They can fit two ways. If you replaced the entire thing double check and make sure a trace didn’t get messed up. Let me know how it goes.
Okay so I’ve notice I’ve replaced the potentiometer and the housing for it, so the green part with the tracks and the white but with the wipers, with the ones from a replacement from the wrong side of the controller (the white ones, not the ones with the pink tint in the centre of the wiper) could this be the issue?
Thanks for this video. I'm wondering if it's possible to do this replacement using hall effect joysticks instead? My left Dualsense stick is starting to drift, so I'd like to go ahead and swap out both with something that should never have this problem again.
I don't know. Might have to be a hall joystick made for the DualSense. The move from 10K in the DualShock, to 2K potentiometers makes me wonder if they lowered the reference voltage to the joystick.
@@metalplasticelectronics354 Do you think unsoldering the GuliKit Electromagnetic Module Joystick for Steam Deck from it's board and soldering it to the PS5 board would work?
Look up hall effect joysticks - this is the design-tech solution that has been gaining attention and should be offered more and more as part of or as replaceable option going forward
This is my thought as well. My controller hasn't drifted yet thankfully but i know it will someday. I wish that there will be replacement hall effect joystick specifically for the dualsense 5 in the near future.
If you are asking about the vacuum desoldering tool, It just gets hot enough to melt solder, and then when the trigger is pulled, a small vacuum pump is started, sucking the solder out of the PC board hole. At least it does when working correctly.
Fantastic video, i just needed to swap the rubber but i think I'll order a new joystick in advance as its starting to go. Great to know i need a certain one, thank you!
Them using solder that require a HIGHER melting point than usual on a device that doesn't get hot at all is just there to make repairs more difficult...
Excellent video as always. I tried something similar but the new analog stick wasn’t calibrated. Similar to the point that I removed the analog sticks and changed the potentiometers. But after putting it all back together, the stick drifted. Can these sticks be calibrated like the ones in the Hall effects sticks video?
@@metalplasticelectronics354 Thank you for the prompt reply. I see. Then it must have been something with the analog stick I was using or maybe the stick wasn’t properly seated.
A regular potentiometer joystick will probably have calibration difficulties, but should work. The Hall effect joystick will not work as the power and ground pins are reversed for one of the sensors. It might damage the Hall sensor and cause it to short out.
To melt the lead-free solder, you will probably need the iron temperature set to 700-740 degrees Fahrenheit. A higher-wattage iron can be used a bit lower. If it's a very small-wattage iron, you will probably need to raise the temperature some more, especially for the ground connections.
So probably a dumb question I bought replacement part from Amazon it looks very close to the ps5 one it’s ALPS 3318 is what it says on the part. Do you know if that will work? Man they look so similar but I’m worried it won’t work. Wish I would of watched this video before ordering.
I'm not sure about the part number. I think the Alps potentiometers for the PS5 have a white center piece and the PS4 ones have a black or gray. And I'm not sure how reliable that is. Just what I have seen.
@@metalplasticelectronics354 I put my multi meter to the part it read around 10K ohms so I guess I won’t install it and try to order a new part. Thank you.
I guess there's no way to tell if a joystick module is faulty without a multimeter, is that right? I bought a dozen of them from that site just in case...
With ohmmeter could tell if one of the potentiometers is way off center. A few dollars for a cheap meter could save the effort of installing a bad module. Worth having one around.
@@metalplasticelectronics354 I just replaced both joysticks but both are off centre in idle, interesting enough all 4 xy-axises have same amount of offsets. I saw EL7 FU 2.3K (also made by FU) on amazon and they are packed with correction resistors and I guess that's what I need? More research to do as I don't know how to apply or acquire them yet, tho I guess I might need an ohnmeter for real😂. Is your joystick still good after a year if you don't mind me asking? Anyway thanks a lot for the recording its very helpful.
I've replaced joystick modules in two of my PS5 controllers. I pretty sure both were less than a year old when I replaced the module. Both are still doing fine. Last one only has a few months on it though. Do you know if the joystick modules you used had 10k pots or around the 2k pots? I think it would be very rare to get 2 bad potentiometers out of 4.
@@metalplasticelectronics354 Are you refering to the white labels on the potentiometers? If so they are 2K3, I am using the ones from the link in the description, same three sets of labels as yours (60/B/2K3). Good to hear yours are still good... I am mostly play on PC so deadzone setting is fine for now if needed.
Yes, Amazon sells a kit with most or the parts in it. Take a look at this video it has the parts link in the description: th-cam.com/video/9QCoB89lcr0/w-d-xo.html
Well made video. Didactic and to the point. Can I ask you, what about the new hall effect modules? Ahould they have the same resitance? (2.3 for ps5 and 10 for ps4?) How can I tell them apart woth certainty? Thanks in advance.
I'm not sure how interchangeable the Hall effect joystick modules are. The DualSense controller joysticks run at 1.8 volts. If the Hall sensor in the joystick runs at that low of a voltage, then it will probably work in the DualSense. I've only tried one type of Hall joystick at present. I've ordered a set from Amazon that looks like K-silver ones, but the description doesn't say anything about the brand. I'll see when I get them. I'll make a video on them.
Take a look at these videos: th-cam.com/video/slxgHcYHnm8/w-d-xo.htmlsi=E5XgcRxwQ4vUlwW9 and th-cam.com/video/1CyXQey4vwI/w-d-xo.htmlsi=qicdacTY40YgUnWx . I have some of the items listed in the description.
I only have experience with a couple of the old Hakkos. They are great, but the current ones are very expensive. If I was replaceing my old Hakko I would probably try one of the cheap ones from Amazon. It not someting I use every day.
Is it ok to just replace the white removable part in the potentionmeters with a PS4 one for the PS5 controller? I managed to clean mine but it came back after a week. I cleaned it again but the stick drift remained. I cleaned the white part and the stick drift went away a little bit. I saw it has some sort of damage in it.
From what I’ve seen the Alps wiper looks the same for all the Alps potentiometers and the Favor Union wiper looks the same for the Favor Union potentiometers, so you should be able to. But if the wiper is damage it has probably damaged the resistive element part of the potentiometer as well.
What is the tool you use at first? The tool to melt throuch the chip. It is not a regular solding tool is it ?? I am looking for a similar item.. but i bought two already, but both cant get through, or they cant melt the solding away… do you have the name of the tool that you use ??
If you are talking about the tool used at about the 3:50 time. That is an old Hakko 470 desoldering gun. The soldering iron used to remove the haptic motor wires at the 2:45 time is a Hakko FX-951 soldering station.
Great video! Definitely the safest way to replace. Unfortunately while attempting this, the capacitor above the left analog stick blew away! There’s one on the right side with a resistance of around 700ohms (not sure the capacitance). If you know the value / name of the capacitor on the left and where to source that would be great! Thanks. [Board is BDM 010]
I sure don't. You might check and see if the ends of the capacitor connect to the ground and the supply pins of the joystick potentiometers. If so, it's probably just a bypass cap, and the value will not be that critical. I think they are 0201 size. If the length is about 1 mm, then they are 0402. If the length is about 0.6 mm, then they are 0201. Amazon used to sell some SMD chip capacitor kits. If they don't, then you will probably have to order from a place like Mouser or DigiKey. For a bypass cap, I would try a 100 nanofarad to start with.
Thanks so much! Will let you know how it goes. [update] spot on! They look about 0.6mm (so 0201) and my reading was 127nf !! Thanks for replying so quickly, I thought my controller was a goner 🤣! Will order them now :)
Seems like a pretty common problem so far unfortunately. 3 months after ordering my scuf fps reflex my joystick went bad. Not just drift unusable flickers
I like the thinner solder diameters, I believe in the video I was using 0.031 diameter solder. It doesn't matter that much on these larger pins. The thinner solder does cost a bit more.
Hello. I just changed my stick and it's still giving me the same problem that I had with drift. You see a lot of load to the left side. Because it can be? Thank you!!
This is the best video i have seen to remove this analog stick all instructions clear and everything well explained👌, im about to do this replacement just asking if you know any desoldering gun that is cheap and good and another thing is, can you use any orange analog stick to replace it?
I don't know of any cheap desoldering guns. You want to make sure the stick is made for PS5. The potentiometer value on the dualsense are around 2k ohm instead of the 10k on the PS4 controllers. I think most of the orange ones will have 2k3 printed on them if they are made fro the dualsense.
@@metalplasticelectronics354 ok no worries ill look for a desoldering gun station and thank you for your reply i was having a hard time for the analog stick type👍
These dualsense controllers are driving me nuts rn with how poor the build quality is. Thank lord I found your video on replacing the sticks
Glad it helps. Still a lot of work.
Tbf, sticks have the lowest life out of any part on a controller. Problem lies in making it so hard to replace them.
Think yourself lucky you haven’t spent £380 on a scuff like I did and it just started randomly drifting and no matter what I do cleaning wise it needs changed but I have no clue how to do it myself and I don’t wanna break the controller completely
And some people don't think planned obsolescence is a thing, thanks for this guide, third time I've used it!
It has become a disposable world, and it's a shame. I'm glad you found the video helpful.
Mate i gotta say there must be a 100 videos online about this yours truly and i mean truly stand above the rest! Great narration in the video, perfect camera work, great little tips and tricks specially with the 2.5k value u mentioned!!!! Huge W! If i could like twice I would u a legend!
Thanks
@@metalplasticelectronics354 whats the soldering temp please
I was in the middle of trying to fix my controller, it turned out I don't have any soldering tools. And this is actually a pretty common issue, I don't know why it's not talked about as much, it's a defective design. Consumers shouldn't have to take apart their controller to avoid paying $80 for a new one. Sony should honestly be sued for this
I don’t think Sony even considers the DualSense repairable, just disposable. That’s why they brought out the Edge with it’s 20 dollar joystick module.
Seriously wtf. I want fix my joystick drift but i have to use a frickin' soldering tool to do it? Unreal.
@@dawens3199 unfortunate, but you can get all the soldering tools you need for it plus the replacement sticks for half the price of a new controller which is what I did.
@@dawens3199It is a bummer on the initial investment, but once you've learned the skill and get good with all the tools, they end up paying for themselves many times over across their lifetime. I made so many repairs with a $6 soldering iron when I was younger, it was terrible but got the job done and saved me so much money vs replacing stuff. Eventually bought a nicer $60 iron, a hot air rework station, and some "helping hands" to improve my setup, as the investment was worth how much easier it made the process.
Agreed, coukd change it easily on N64
Yeahhhh.. I think I'll just buy a new controller. JFC
I'm going to have to add controller technician to my goddamn resume after this.
Yep same here 😂
I think ima just start my own business anyone want their ps5 controller fixed hit me up 😂😂😂
I hear ya, this is obviously for people confident and competent enough to do such a thing, I been thinking about trying it if my sticks fail. I'm picky about having good sticks and buttons, I installed the extreme rate paddles on a couple controllers so I have part of this down already. You can get a pack of 4 joysticks for like $8
Bro what, it’s not that difficult. Getting the factory solder off is the only real hurdle.
What an excellent tutorial! Didn’t rush through the steps and very well explained. And thanks for linking the parts you used, I definitely would have gone the Amazon route just to find out the hard way it was the wrong part. Much appreciated!
Glad it was helpful!
Never fails to amaze me how people with so much money only think about how they can take our entire life's pay
Great work man! Thanks for sharing this- very helpful in understanding what’s happening with my controllers. Cheers!
No problem 👍
I need to get a solder and learn how to solder I’m tired of spending $75 every 3 months on a new PS5 controller I constantly get stick drift I had my PS5 since release and I’m on my 8th controller now
It's not that hard to learn. And if you saved the old controllers will have something to practice on.
Nice clear tutorial thanks. Just had a go on my drifting left stick (it took about 2 hours longer than your video though). It's a massive pain with a handheld solder vacuum, I ended up having to carefully crush the old component with pliers just to get the pins out one by one. Finally get it all back together and... the stick doesn't work at all 😢 AND it's somehow *still* drifting despite not getting any input from the stick! Sony's done a bad job with these controllers...
Yea, without a vacuum desoldering gun it’s not an easy task. I don’t know what advice to give. It the center pin of a potentiometer is open or the trace to it is damage. That could cause it to drift and for that axis to not have any effect. Does either axis have any effect on the joystick you changed?
A lot of times, just replacing the white little pieces of the thumbstick slots does the trick. On my ps5 controller I had terrible stick drift, so i had sprayed them with electrical cleaner and got my thumbstick to work again. After a month the drift came back. I swapped the white pieces from the vertical to the horizontal and sure enough the drift was now the vertical. I just swapped the piece and now the controller works perfect. No soldering needed.👍
Where can I get them?
@SGVSOUTHSIDE eBay, I got 6 for only £4. I've fitted two into the left analog stick which was pulling to the left, cleaned the whole stick with contact cleaner and it's cured the drift. The only thing is now there is a very slight click/notchy feeling when the stick is moved to the right like something is not quite seated correctly, or something is rubbing inside the actual moving parts of the joystick. I think the PS5 joystick parts are cheap rubbish, made from poor quality plastic and built to fail, meaning you'll buy a new controller every time, making more money in controller sales. Just my opinion.
What do you call those? I'm trying to find them on eBay lol
@@PullOutPapa they are called potentiometers
Hi, I replaced both controllers and still have drift. Could you share a link to these "little white pieces" that you've used from eBay? Cheers.
@@stephennoble2647
8:22 To anybody who hasn't had to do this yet, be careful when removing and replacing these flexes, the tiny traces can bend and cause the whole pad to not turn on
Great video. As an observation: i think sony is using high temperature soldering alloy. With my soldering iron i was not able to melt the material holding pins even with 400 degree set
I would expect it to be probably the cheapest no lead solder there is.
Need to reflow the joint with leaded solder
@@austinduff8833 don't mix leaded solder with unleaded solder if the solder is unleaded use unleaded
@@TheGamingLegend-be9ey why?
@@TheGamingLegend-be9ey why?
Put a new extreme tension stick on my bdm 020, but it pulls max hard to the left... So i got another stick module to replace, and that ones doing the same thing... I think maybe i damaged the board somehwo? It doesnt look like ot but idk what else it could be. Not sure if i should cut my losses or get a new main pcb for the controllwr (47$) and then redo it? ... Ugh. Feels kinda hopeless.. i had a hell of a time with desoldering... Ended up using flat cutters to chop the pins on the opposite side, then pull module off then clesr holes with my crappy desolder plunger and wick. 🙄 I ordered a vacuum desolderer, so that should help. Is it even worth paying 50 when i can get a new controller for like 70? Ugh i feel lost and cant find a resource for help anywherw on resdit or on forums
If it's at maximum left, then that means probably 0 volts going to the processor. Do you have a multimeter? If so, check the voltage on the pins of the left-right potentiometer. The left pin should be ground, the center pin should be around 0.9 volts, and the right pin should be 1.8 volts. If the 1.8 is missing, then you know it's the trace to that pin. You can run a thin wire from the other 1.8-volt up-down potentiometer pin. If the center pin does have about 0.9 volts on it, it's probably the trace back to the processor. That one is much harder to run a jumper on.
The most detailed video I've found....great work thank you 😁
Glad you enjoyed it!
5:30 Hi I have a qn, does the 2.3K potentiometer work as a replacement for the 2.1K one? Will the difference in value affect anything or must you get one as close as possible to the original number?
Yes, the tolerance is so loose on these that a 2.3K might measure below 2K and a 2.1K might measure above 2.3K. But if you are planning on replacing the potentiometers you might want to look at using the new K-Silver or GuliKit TMR joysticks.
@metalplasticelectronics354 oh alright. I have 2 controllers and when I measured the resistance of all potentiometers one controller gave a reading of 520 Ohms while the other only gave 160 Ohms. Is there any reason to explain why the 2 values are so far off from 2k?
@@metalplasticelectronics354 Im using the fluke 115 multimeter for measurement
Are you measuring them in the circuit? They should all read about 500 ohms in the circuit, not sure why one would read differently. If that is two different controllers one might still have a little voltage on the 1.8 volt line throwing off the resistance reading.
That should give a very accurate reading.
Thankyou for your video, This has happened to mine after only 4 months...
I'm glad you enjoyed it.
Anyone know of a place in DFW that can do this kind of repair? I have only found one place that claims to do these repairs but they want $60 to do it which is about as much as a new DualSense.
Replaced the left stick and it's stuck going to the left. Not sure what I could of done wrong but man it's a moral deflation knowing I messed up somewhere😞
What happens if I use the 10k potentiometer anyway? (Take a stick from a P4 controller and throw it on there as a last ditch resort)
I have not tried, but from reports, it seems there is a there is a very high likelihood of drifting.
ONE IMPORTANT QUESTION/PROBLEM, i replaced the right module on my bdm 030 controller, i had serious stickdrift and it got fixed, EXCEPT now it is SLIGHTLY is off centre (10%↗️). Why is this happening?
The new potentiometers are that much different from the original ones.
Thank you for sharing. It helps a lot listening to someone who have knowledge of electronic repairs. There are too many E waste already with Sony being one of the culprit. Why Sony does not use Hall effect stick and save us a lot of trouble of repairing this in the first place. The cost isn't even that high. (This include all the console developer) Kudos on your channel. You are a live saver or is that Earth saver.
Glad it was helpful!
Hey, wanted to ask what is the blue model u use to hold the circut board 4:12. Where could I get it?
Search for PCB holder on Amazon, you should see a few pop up that look like it. I got it from Amazon years ago.
@@metalplasticelectronics354 thanks man
Orange potentiometer are 10k but grey ones have no writing on them. I assume they’re 2.3k as later PS4 models use the grey ones too like the PS5 one. I replaced the white part only but it’s marginally of centre so doesn’t go back to dead centre unless it’s flung back itself from max position.
It may be part of the potentiometer element has worn. Does it move smoothly around the center area or jerk a bit when moved?
@@metalplasticelectronics354 it moves smoothly. If I let it go back to dead centre itself from max position, it goes to 0%. A gentle push of the joystick and it’ll to back to 2% unless I gently touch the thumb stick then it stays at 0%. Other side of potent. might be worn but soldering is hard.
It may be it is worn somewhat. Might try and recalibrate the controller. Take a look at this: th-cam.com/video/0fK1sapv0YI/w-d-xo.htmlsi=n52R8aQgmtS09jGt.
@@metalplasticelectronics354 I did thank you. Recalibrated and it’s working perfectly now. Will replace the full potentiometer when it fails again.
I replaced left analog on ps4 pad but on my ps5 its impossible to even remove vibration cable. Its too solid... i guess i buy new one and experiment on drifting analog Old one later. Thx for video
I ordered new parts for my controller I replaced the left analog stick because my character walked to the left a lot and it worked it stopped doing it but when i replaced it the right started acting up it the camera started to move to the right I replaced that it sort of fixed it it Went from scrolling to the right to slightly stick drifting to the left please help
Are the replacement potentiometers the right value. Some places selling 10 kohm for the DualSense when they should be 2k. Or the new potentiometer may not be in good shape. I ordered 20 Favor Union joysticks. 1 of the 20 had a potentiometer that was defective.
Did you try with calibration? If drift Is consistant It can be a matter of calibration
my first time using a soder, what temperature should I have it on? I dont want to mess up anything, I also bought a solder sucker, does that require anything special?
730 F works well.
I bought potentiometers from an amazon listing that didnt specify the value that you show on the multimeter they ship tomorrow I wonder if we bought from the same listing but the brand does say alps. could I just replace the disc thing itself? is there a name for that disc thing?
If your replacing alps for alps, then you don’t have to remove then entire joystick. Can just remove the three leaded potentiometer element and replace it. It just clips in the joystick metal frame.
@@metalplasticelectronics354 thank you for responding im gonna follow these instructions when everything arrives
i snapped the black thing in the analog box how can i swap it from an old controller?
If it's a broken piece in the joystick module, you will have to replace the entire module.
5:17 unfortunately it is common i have the same problem ( controller is 7 months old)
Beginner here. Any tips in the case of one the haptics wires being broken as mentioned at 2:43?
Thanks for the video.
Depends on where it’s broken at. If it’s still long enough to reach to the PC board, then just strip a bit of the insulation off the wire and solder it back. If it broke at the haptic motor, I don’t know if they can be gotten into without tearing them up. If the wire is still there, just too short. Will need a bit of small wire to extend it. Be best to have some small heat shrink tubing, but some electrical tape will work as well. Want to make sure where the wires are joined don’t short to anything. Good luck.
So for every TH-cam video I’ve watched, replacing the joystick works and no adjustments need to be done, yet every single time I replace the joysticks, they are off center, sometimes by 20% or more, am I doing something wrong? Frying the motherboard by heating the holes too much? It’s basically every joystick, I’ll occasionally get one within 5% but never centered, a response would mean the world to me
The replacement is almost never dead center. Is it good enough to use is the thing. And I guess that depends on the user. I do check the resistance of the replacement joystick. If the center value is off by more than 20% I toss that one. In my batch of 20 joysticks I ordered, one was outside that range. If you want it to be aligned as accurately as the original, that’s going to be near impossible. Would have to measure the values of the original pots center offset. And then would have to hunt through probably hundreds of replacements to find a close enough match.
I own 6 of these controller and 3 of them have failed within the first year with heavy use, and the other 3 are new enough that they haven't yet. what a mess.
It sure seems the quality of the joystick modules has gone down.
I noticed the back plastic mold starting to flex inward. I think it may contribute to the sticks drifting with ps5 controllers.
I could only see that having an effect if it could flex the PC board the joystick is mounted on.
@@metalplasticelectronics354 that is the theory
Man you make great videos, this is the first one I watched. I ordered 50 of them for $30, now the wait lol
I hope it goes well.
Can I put ps4 controller sticks to ps5 controller as I don’t have ps5 controller sticks atm
If you are talking about the joystick modules then not really. They will fit but the potentiometers on the joystick modules are a different value. And it seems to cause centering problems.
Common problem unfortunately... my stock white controller that came with my ps5... also same shit left stick drifting to the left, about 6 months in... should i go with scuf or the pro ps5 controller?... ive already bought a regular black and light blue controller.... and they all drift now
I would like to know what joystick modules are in the Pro. I have no idea which is better, there both expensive.
Hi! Can I send my controllers to you to replace the joy sticks of my ps5 and nintendo pro controller?
No, sorry I can't take stuff in. You might see if there is a small phone repair place in your area, wouldn't hurt to ask them.
Why cant i just replace the sensor piece instead of the whole analog stick
You can, and it’s much easier than replacing the entire joystick module. You just have to get the right potentiometers. The Alps and Favor Union potentiometers are not interchangeable. I go over a couple of ways of removing the potentiometers in this video: th-cam.com/video/slxgHcYHnm8/w-d-xo.html
Could you please tell me the exact model of the vacuum desoldering tool you used in this video? I want to purchase the same one to ensure I get the right tool.
if you know of a similar but cheaper model, I'd be interested in that as well. Thank you! :)
It is a very old Hakko 470. It's been discontinued for many years. It's so old I wouldn't even risk one on Ebay. There are quite a few on Amazon around the $150 range. I have no idea how well they work. But they maybe knock offs of the Hakko.
@@metalplasticelectronics354 Thanks a lot 🙏
My left joystick is pushing left without touching it. I have only had this ps5 for about 5 months, and it was indeed purchased new.
I think they are supposed to have a 1 year warranty, so before pulling it apart I would try and contact Sony.
⚠️IMPORTANT⚠️
If you just want to replace the sick itself not the component you don’t have to do the hot wiring, i did it myself and it works!
Can you tell me the name of the desoldering product used 4:00
That is a very old Hakko 470
I did the whole josytick replacement now the d-pad only goes to left and the joystick is non-responsive. I checked all the solders nothing seems touching each other. What is the possible cause?
Double check and make sure all the flat flexible cables are plugged in good. Might look closely around the area especially near the ICs, looking for any solder splatter. I don’t know how the D-pad is related to the joysticks.
@@metalplasticelectronics354 Thanks for your reply and video by the way. Not sure if the assembly I bought is defective. It is the same assembly that you use in your video. I will double check it or desolder everything and replace with my other extra parts.
What temp you using / used i did my ps4 controller it didnt go well i feel give up i used leaded free solder
I would run my iron at 750 to 780 F to lead-free. But I prefer tin-lead and mostly run the iron at 720F. Take a look at this video: th-cam.com/video/slxgHcYHnm8/w-d-xo.htmlsi=eI411dALdlSn_ZdE
Where can i find the same gun please
The vacuum desoldering gun is a Hakko 470. It's been discontinued for years.
Hello so can i replace the ps5 joystick with a ps4 one
Should work somewhat but they are different values. Would be best to use the correct joysticks. And if you are going to go to the trouble to replace them why not go with a Hall effect or TMR joystick so you won't have to worry about it again?
So there is no way you can fix the drifting without desoldering?
Other than trying to get some contact cleaner into the potentiometers. One comment said he was able to replace the potentiometer wiper and it worked. But I think the only way for sure is to replace the joystick module or the potentiometers. And that does require desoldering the old and soldering in the new.
I should get myself a heating pad.. I currently use a frying pan weighed down with a road spike.
What I'm wondering is where you got that handy little mount to hold the board in place.
It came from Amazon. Think the same thing is sold under a bunch of different brands. Just search pc board holder.
@metalplasticelectronics354 just ordered a similar board holder, and a cheapish desoldering tool!
Thanks for the video & link, I ordered extras. Got a controller to fix, I'll probably wind up grabbing extra controllers off marketplace too.
Tried everything you did in here and can’t get it desoldered. It’s melting but can’t get the holes empty
You can cut apart the joystick module with some small side cutters and remove 1 pin at a time. Just be careful not to damage any other parts on the board. There’s some really small capacitors close to the joystick modules. If the hole still has solder in it. Put fresh solder on the pad and try again with the vacuum desolder tool or solder wick to clean the hole out. Can us a small stainless steel needle to push the melted solder out if all else fails.
Hi, so I've just finished completely re-soldering two new joystick assemblies. The new pots were 2.06 kOhm and the old ones 2.2 kOhm. I thought this is probably within tolerence. However, the left joystick still has a constant drift on both axes. Is this a mechanical centering issue, or an resistance mismatch issue. Any ideas?
It wouldn't be resistance, 2.06 is well within tolerance. Did you just change the pots or the entire joystick module? And is if drifting the same way to old ones were?
Hi, OK that's good to know. I changed the whole joystick module, both of them. In the originals the drift was not too bad but they also had bad jumping, which I took to be a sign of track wear on the pots. Now the joysticks are smooth in operation, just with annoying "offset" drift. I thought there might be some kind of calibration adjuster, but seemingly not. I should add, I'm not a gamer, this is all for my teenage son 🙄@@metalplasticelectronics354
I would get some replacement potentiometers and just try replacing the pots again. If you still have the old ones, try and measure the center tap ratio. And look for a new one that is close. As there doesn’t seem to be a way to calibrate the DualSense controller. I think it’s a case of the old pot being off center in one direction and the new pot being off center in the opposite direction. And it’s just too much difference. That’s my best guess.
Hey man, I am a bit late for the party here and a complete noob on anything hardware. I am buying the ioystick replacement, and I don't have any (de)soldering tools nor xp with it. My controler is also the dualsense (not edge). I wanted to ask, do you have any (de)soldering kit that you recommend I buy that are easy on noobs? And, do you think it is possible to follow this tutorial to fix a dualsense? I am not from US/Canada so $200 is an even more absurd price when I convert it into my currency for an Edge controller. Is there any hope whatsoever?
Take a look at this video: th-cam.com/video/slxgHcYHnm8/w-d-xo.htmlsi=LwiXp9nxsWH2mdu1 . It can be done without a lot of expensive equipment. If you have never done any desoldering before I would try and find some scrap PCBs to do a little practice on before tackling the DualSense.
Do you also have clicking sound of the analog sticks when simply moving them slightly into a direction? Only my original dual sense with the console did not do this. It's annoying as hell. And after four replacements I gave up
No, no clicking sound. Did all your replacements come from the same place? Do they make the clicking sound unmounted and do you know what brand they are?
@@metalplasticelectronics354 im not talking about the analog stick replacements. the whole controller was replaced 4 times by sony. even with a new revision controller. take a look at reddit or youtube. this is the worst quality i have ever seen. dualshock 4 made no problems at all with sticks. i have even coil whine with dualsense
Oh I was thinking about the replacement joystick. I went and checked the one I replaced and it makes no noise. But I went back and checked the ones that hadn’t been replace. And they all make a small noise. So I would imagine that would mean the noise is coming from the joysticks they are using. I’ll have to look into a bit more.
@@metalplasticelectronics354 today I could check for the first time in a shop dual sense controller. One controller was fine, the other one had the same issue as mine. Sony's qa seems to be still bad
It may be who makes the joysticks. I've tried 2 alps and both make a sound. I've tried 3 Favor Union and none of those made a sound. But that's not a big trial.
2yrs later i say it is not a rear issue almsot worth getting dulsence edge at this point or a aftermarkt one
Can you make the same video without the tools I have to buy?😅 if there are tools I have to buy please place links where I can order them online.❤
Take a look at the end of this video for most of the tools used, they all came from Amazon: th-cam.com/video/slxgHcYHnm8/w-d-xo.htmlsi=NiM9ROtga82YcapT
Quick question. So once you install the new module do you have to reprogram it? Or should it automatically be centered?
It will need to be calibrated, take a look at this video: th-cam.com/video/0fK1sapv0YI/w-d-xo.htmlsi=OQbVyVvLXjiH-oQ3
Thanks for the video! I have 2 gamepads with the same problem- left joystick drift. Is it possible to use the right joystick as a replacement for the left one? Are they the same?
They are the same. You will be much better off getting a new one to go in the controller; they are very cheap. Take a look at my playlist, "PS5 Controller & Related Items," which will give you a better idea of the options available.
Best video I ve seen yet on this
Thank you very much.
What kinda gun is dat. That’s the part I’m stuck on on my controller
It's a long-discontinued Hakko 470 vacuum desoldering gun. Take a look at this video for some ideas on removing the joystick without one: th-cam.com/video/slxgHcYHnm8/w-d-xo.htmlsi=5N4x1dj0lCTTPnjh
What if u don’t have the hot thing
What is the maximum temperature I need? For this
I run my soldering iron at 750F for the lead-free solder. For the vacuum desoldering gun, I run it at maximum, so it is probably around 800F or a bit more.
@ tysm I appreciate it
Is there any way to fix a joystick without replacement? Mine doesn’t drift anymore but the top part of the joystick came loose and spins
Is it the joystick shaft that is spinning or something broke loose in the knob? I doubt a glue would hold the joystick shaft so probably have to replace it.
@@metalplasticelectronics354 the knob came loose
I think you can by just the replacement knobs from Amazon. It will require pulling the PC board out of the controller. But you don't have to unsoldered anything.
It’s very common. I’m on controller number 2 and it just broke and I’ve only had the ps5 a year and a half. And both controllers broke after 6 months.
The joystick modules are a real weak spot for these.
@@metalplasticelectronics354 I just got the dual sense edge because I can’t deal with this again.
@@SuperCarsFromTheHoodDualsense Edge has the exact same problem y'know.
At that price range you're better off with a HYPR modified Dualsense with electromagnetic joysticks for a longer joystick lifespan
Guys, do I need to do any calibration after replace the entire module? Or Just install it and it's good to go?
The few I have replaced have been good to go. I didn't see a calibrate option for the controllers. There is a reset button, but I do not know it that will force a recalibration.
@@metalplasticelectronics354 Right, thank you!!
i'm curious, what happens if you change that with 10k analog ?
I believe the dead zone acts differently and greater chance of drift with the 10K pots.
@@metalplasticelectronics354 Got a weird situation with my drift if its even considered it.When I blow into the analog it goes away for a bit then restarts only when I push up,sometimes it doesnt happen for hours then it starts back up,any idea whats going on?
It could be the potentiometer has worn till it’s right on the edge of centering. Could try some electrical contact cleaner on the joystick potentiometer to see if it’s just some loose bits of the resistive element. @@zeokenx2
@@metalplasticelectronics354 That cant be it due to the fact that its not drifting on its own after I stop touching it. If it was directly the potentiometer it would be doing what it did on this video,its been doing it less and less since I blow into it.Seems like to me it was reacting to the dust that got trapped inside of the stick
Thank you for making such a video and it is very helpful for your explanation❤🙏
My pleasure 😊
So I changed the potentiometer to a matching replacement. One side of the whole analog stick potentiometer. Desoldered the 3 legs and soldered. I practiced on an old PS4 controller beforehand. I also desoldered the red and black cables so I could fully remove the PCB. Put back together, the control just continually scrolls left and it seems the whole left analog stick is non reactive. Any clue what might have happened?
Did you just replace the potentiometers? If so make sure center is not 180 degrees out of alignment. They can fit two ways. If you replaced the entire thing double check and make sure a trace didn’t get messed up. Let me know how it goes.
Okay so I’ve notice I’ve replaced the potentiometer and the housing for it, so the green part with the tracks and the white but with the wipers, with the ones from a replacement from the wrong side of the controller (the white ones, not the ones with the pink tint in the centre of the wiper) could this be the issue?
So basically the Y axis potentiometer on the x axis.
the x and y are the same values so shouldn't make any difference. Did you remove the potentiometers from the joystice module?
Yes. I desoldered the 3 pronged green casing and removed and also the wipers inside the casing I removed and replaced with brand new ones.
Thanks for this video. I'm wondering if it's possible to do this replacement using hall effect joysticks instead? My left Dualsense stick is starting to drift, so I'd like to go ahead and swap out both with something that should never have this problem again.
I don't know. Might have to be a hall joystick made for the DualSense. The move from 10K in the DualShock, to 2K potentiometers makes me wonder if they lowered the reference voltage to the joystick.
@@metalplasticelectronics354 Do you think unsoldering the GuliKit Electromagnetic Module Joystick for Steam Deck from it's board and soldering it to the PS5 board would work?
I doubt it. The output from them is probably the hall sensor voltage.
Look up hall effect joysticks - this is the design-tech solution that has been gaining attention and should be offered more and more as part of or as replaceable option going forward
This is my thought as well. My controller hasn't drifted yet thankfully but i know it will someday. I wish that there will be replacement hall effect joystick specifically for the dualsense 5 in the near future.
Just a question. How are using the soldering tool to remove the pins? If you heat them aren't they gonna melt in more and get stuck?
If you are asking about the vacuum desoldering tool, It just gets hot enough to melt solder, and then when the trigger is pulled, a small vacuum pump is started, sucking the solder out of the PC board hole. At least it does when working correctly.
Once the solder is hot enough to be in a liquid state, the pump quickly sucks it up
Great video ! I’m teaching myself how to replace and customize parts.
Thanks, glad you enjoyed it.
Fantastic video, i just needed to swap the rubber but i think I'll order a new joystick in advance as its starting to go. Great to know i need a certain one, thank you!
Glad it helped.
Just tell me one thing...i have orange colour potentiometers 2.3K.Will green coloured 2.3K work instead of the orange one?
If you are replacing the entire joystick, yes. But if you just want to replace the potentiometers, then no.
Them using solder that require a HIGHER melting point than usual on a device that doesn't get hot at all is just there to make repairs more difficult...
It's the lead-free solder, it has a higher melting point.
Excellent video as always. I tried something similar but the new analog stick wasn’t calibrated. Similar to the point that I removed the analog sticks and changed the potentiometers. But after putting it all back together, the stick drifted. Can these sticks be calibrated like the ones in the Hall effects sticks video?
No, you sure can't. The only thing you can do is use a meter and try to find a replacement potentiometer that is close to the original one.
@@metalplasticelectronics354 Thank you for the prompt reply. I see. Then it must have been something with the analog stick I was using or maybe the stick wasn’t properly seated.
Wait so if I use PS4 joysticks on the PS5 what will happen, will it blow up or something?
A regular potentiometer joystick will probably have calibration difficulties, but should work. The Hall effect joystick will not work as the power and ground pins are reversed for one of the sensors. It might damage the Hall sensor and cause it to short out.
@@metalplasticelectronics354 so I have to buy new ones?
whats the correct soldering temp?
To melt the lead-free solder, you will probably need the iron temperature set to 700-740 degrees Fahrenheit. A higher-wattage iron can be used a bit lower. If it's a very small-wattage iron, you will probably need to raise the temperature some more, especially for the ground connections.
@@metalplasticelectronics354 thanks is 60w ok
Should be fine, will probably be better at close to the 740 temp.
@@metalplasticelectronics354 thanks appreciate you
So probably a dumb question I bought replacement part from Amazon it looks very close to the ps5 one it’s ALPS 3318 is what it says on the part. Do you know if that will work? Man they look so similar but I’m worried it won’t work. Wish I would of watched this video before ordering.
I'm not sure about the part number. I think the Alps potentiometers for the PS5 have a white center piece and the PS4 ones have a black or gray. And I'm not sure how reliable that is. Just what I have seen.
@@metalplasticelectronics354 I put my multi meter to the part it read around 10K ohms so I guess I won’t install it and try to order a new part. Thank you.
Yea, that is for the PS4 controllers.
I guess there's no way to tell if a joystick module is faulty without a multimeter, is that right? I bought a dozen of them from that site just in case...
With ohmmeter could tell if one of the potentiometers is way off center. A few dollars for a cheap meter could save the effort of installing a bad module. Worth having one around.
@@metalplasticelectronics354 I just replaced both joysticks but both are off centre in idle, interesting enough all 4 xy-axises have same amount of offsets. I saw EL7 FU 2.3K (also made by FU) on amazon and they are packed with correction resistors and I guess that's what I need? More research to do as I don't know how to apply or acquire them yet, tho I guess I might need an ohnmeter for real😂. Is your joystick still good after a year if you don't mind me asking? Anyway thanks a lot for the recording its very helpful.
I've replaced joystick modules in two of my PS5 controllers. I pretty sure both were less than a year old when I replaced the module. Both are still doing fine. Last one only has a few months on it though. Do you know if the joystick modules you used had 10k pots or around the 2k pots? I think it would be very rare to get 2 bad potentiometers out of 4.
@@metalplasticelectronics354 Are you refering to the white labels on the potentiometers? If so they are 2K3, I am using the ones from the link in the description, same three sets of labels as yours (60/B/2K3). Good to hear yours are still good... I am mostly play on PC so deadzone setting is fine for now if needed.
FYI my offsets look like this: yt keep deleting my comment with i m g u r 🤦♀XTZeAZ9
I just want new rubber on mine u can just replace that ???
Yes, Amazon sells a kit with most or the parts in it. Take a look at this video it has the parts link in the description: th-cam.com/video/9QCoB89lcr0/w-d-xo.html
Well made video. Didactic and to the point.
Can I ask you, what about the new hall effect modules? Ahould they have the same resitance? (2.3 for ps5 and 10 for ps4?) How can I tell them apart woth certainty?
Thanks in advance.
I'm not sure how interchangeable the Hall effect joystick modules are. The DualSense controller joysticks run at 1.8 volts. If the Hall sensor in the joystick runs at that low of a voltage, then it will probably work in the DualSense. I've only tried one type of Hall joystick at present. I've ordered a set from Amazon that looks like K-silver ones, but the description doesn't say anything about the brand. I'll see when I get them. I'll make a video on them.
@@metalplasticelectronics354 Great. Thanks.
great video? but whatbudget tools would you reccomend for this i am looking to start myself.
Take a look at these videos: th-cam.com/video/slxgHcYHnm8/w-d-xo.htmlsi=E5XgcRxwQ4vUlwW9 and th-cam.com/video/1CyXQey4vwI/w-d-xo.htmlsi=qicdacTY40YgUnWx . I have some of the items listed in the description.
Any vacuum disoldering tool will just work fine? Or should I get a specific one?
I only have experience with a couple of the old Hakkos. They are great, but the current ones are very expensive. If I was replaceing my old Hakko I would probably try one of the cheap ones from Amazon. It not someting I use every day.
Thanks for sharing. It's inspired me to try buying and repairing some faulty controllers from eBay but can't decide if it's worth the time and effort.
It does take a bit of time to replace them. More like it's something you want to do. But the controllers are not cheap.
There arnt any safety screws?
Only tiny Phillips screws.
@@metalplasticelectronics354 ok thx
What temp aré you using your desoldering?
Iron set at 750F. But once all the no-lead solder is gone, you can take it down to 700.
Thanks for the vid but I can’t do allat I just cut some of the joystick and put the black plastic back on works fine👍
Is it okay to skip the shouldering or is it a necessity?
Soldering is required. Take a look at this video: th-cam.com/video/slxgHcYHnm8/w-d-xo.htmlsi=z3UYj2km5MZMXnh0
Is it ok to just replace the white removable part in the potentionmeters with a PS4 one for the PS5 controller? I managed to clean mine but it came back after a week. I cleaned it again but the stick drift remained. I cleaned the white part and the stick drift went away a little bit. I saw it has some sort of damage in it.
From what I’ve seen the Alps wiper looks the same for all the Alps potentiometers and the Favor Union wiper looks the same for the Favor Union potentiometers, so you should be able to. But if the wiper is damage it has probably damaged the resistive element part of the potentiometer as well.
@@metalplasticelectronics354 Thank you for the reply! I'll update you when the parts arrive!
Yes, please do.
Been through 3 controllers since release. Seems they went cheap to sell the edge
I got the joystick in but the controller won turn on
Make sure one of the battery wires didn't pull loose from it's terminal.
What is the tool you use at first? The tool to melt throuch the chip. It is not a regular solding tool is it ?? I am looking for a similar item.. but i bought two already, but both cant get through, or they cant melt the solding away… do you have the name of the tool that you use ??
If you are talking about the tool used at about the 3:50 time. That is an old Hakko 470 desoldering gun. The soldering iron used to remove the haptic motor wires at the 2:45 time is a Hakko FX-951 soldering station.
Thanks !!😁
Great video! Definitely the safest way to replace. Unfortunately while attempting this, the capacitor above the left analog stick blew away! There’s one on the right side with a resistance of around 700ohms (not sure the capacitance). If you know the value / name of the capacitor on the left and where to source that would be great! Thanks. [Board is BDM 010]
I sure don't. You might check and see if the ends of the capacitor connect to the ground and the supply pins of the joystick potentiometers. If so, it's probably just a bypass cap, and the value will not be that critical. I think they are 0201 size. If the length is about 1 mm, then they are 0402. If the length is about 0.6 mm, then they are 0201. Amazon used to sell some SMD chip capacitor kits. If they don't, then you will probably have to order from a place like Mouser or DigiKey. For a bypass cap, I would try a 100 nanofarad to start with.
Thanks so much! Will let you know how it goes.
[update] spot on! They look about 0.6mm (so 0201) and my reading was 127nf !!
Thanks for replying so quickly, I thought my controller was a goner 🤣!
Will order them now :)
Seems like a pretty common problem so far unfortunately. 3 months after ordering my scuf fps reflex my joystick went bad. Not just drift unusable flickers
I hope it's still under warranty.
Hey man just curious i'm new to soldering what measurement's for the wire did you use? or does it matter?
I like the thinner solder diameters, I believe in the video I was using 0.031 diameter solder. It doesn't matter that much on these larger pins. The thinner solder does cost a bit more.
My controller had stick drift at 3 months of having the ps5, i only used it on weekends, smh....
What material were you using when mounting the new analog stick?
Its Kester 44 63/37 solder.
@@metalplasticelectronics354thanks, but do you know if it matter what kind we use?
@@F1erc3 Any brand-name electrical solder should be fine. Don't use plumbing solder; the flux in it will damage the PC board over time.
Hello. I just changed my stick and it's still giving me the same problem that I had with drift. You see a lot of load to the left side.
Because it can be? Thank you!!
check and make sure the replacement potentiometers are the correct values, should be a little over 2K ohm for the dualsense.
This is the best video i have seen to remove this analog stick all instructions clear and everything well explained👌, im about to do this replacement just asking if you know any desoldering gun that is cheap and good and another thing is, can you use any orange analog stick to replace it?
I don't know of any cheap desoldering guns. You want to make sure the stick is made for PS5. The potentiometer value on the dualsense are around 2k ohm instead of the 10k on the PS4 controllers. I think most of the orange ones will have 2k3 printed on them if they are made fro the dualsense.
@@metalplasticelectronics354 ok no worries ill look for a desoldering gun station and thank you for your reply i was having a hard time for the analog stick type👍
Please i want the same tools
Is there any way without a solder? pls reply
No, soldering is required, sorry. But it's not hard, lots of videos on it on TH-cam.
@@metalplasticelectronics354 how much are solders?