PS5 DualSense - Joystick Replacement
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 15 ก.ย. 2024
- Using a vacuum desoldering tool to replace a defective joystick module. Going over the differences between the PS4 controller joysticks and the PS5 controller joysticks. Taking a closer look at the defective potentiometer that was causing the joystick drift.
Replacement joystick I used: kasynparts.com...
And some people don't think planned obsolescence is a thing, thanks for this guide, third time I've used it!
It has become a disposable world, and it's a shame. I'm glad you found the video helpful.
These dualsense controllers are driving me nuts rn with how poor the build quality is. Thank lord I found your video on replacing the sticks
Glad it helps. Still a lot of work.
Mate i gotta say there must be a 100 videos online about this yours truly and i mean truly stand above the rest! Great narration in the video, perfect camera work, great little tips and tricks specially with the 2.5k value u mentioned!!!! Huge W! If i could like twice I would u a legend!
Thanks
@@metalplasticelectronics354 whats the soldering temp please
I was in the middle of trying to fix my controller, it turned out I don't have any soldering tools. And this is actually a pretty common issue, I don't know why it's not talked about as much, it's a defective design. Consumers shouldn't have to take apart their controller to avoid paying $80 for a new one. Sony should honestly be sued for this
I don’t think Sony even considers the DualSense repairable, just disposable. That’s why they brought out the Edge with it’s 20 dollar joystick module.
Seriously wtf. I want fix my joystick drift but i have to use a frickin' soldering tool to do it? Unreal.
@@dawens3199 unfortunate, but you can get all the soldering tools you need for it plus the replacement sticks for half the price of a new controller which is what I did.
@@dawens3199It is a bummer on the initial investment, but once you've learned the skill and get good with all the tools, they end up paying for themselves many times over across their lifetime. I made so many repairs with a $6 soldering iron when I was younger, it was terrible but got the job done and saved me so much money vs replacing stuff. Eventually bought a nicer $60 iron, a hot air rework station, and some "helping hands" to improve my setup, as the investment was worth how much easier it made the process.
Agreed, coukd change it easily on N64
What an excellent tutorial! Didn’t rush through the steps and very well explained. And thanks for linking the parts you used, I definitely would have gone the Amazon route just to find out the hard way it was the wrong part. Much appreciated!
Glad it was helpful!
Side note you can just replace the potentiometer if it's only one axis that is affected by drift and the stick itself is still in good condition also way easier as it's only 3 pins that need to be desoldered to replace the pot
thats what i did to fix mine.
Bro i think it’s better to replace the whole thing because it takes too much work to take it apart and if only one is damaged probably the other are worn out as well I had a issue with mine and I replaced left and right one, long time ago and still working like it was brand new
@@fernandopineda4400 physically yes but dropping 70 bucks every three months isn't a viable thing to do when you have two kids vs 10 bucks and eventually when hall effects sticks are made to fit in its place be a long term replacment
@@fernandopineda4400 also one is used for movement the other for aiming the aim or right stick is usually more afflicted in my time playing games(30+ years at this point) usually the left stick is unaffected by drift as severely as the right analog stick only on the switch have I seen stick drift on the left joycon which is easy to fix
@@Jihadbearzwithgunz I play fifa only bro that’s why my left stick is the one damaged lol and I paid 14 buck for the replacement parts 😎 never spending 70 on stuff like that specially with the cost of living now
Never fails to amaze me how people with so much money only think about how they can take our entire life's pay
A lot of times, just replacing the white little pieces of the thumbstick slots does the trick. On my ps5 controller I had terrible stick drift, so i had sprayed them with electrical cleaner and got my thumbstick to work again. After a month the drift came back. I swapped the white pieces from the vertical to the horizontal and sure enough the drift was now the vertical. I just swapped the piece and now the controller works perfect. No soldering needed.👍
Where can I get them?
@SGVSOUTHSIDE eBay, I got 6 for only £4. I've fitted two into the left analog stick which was pulling to the left, cleaned the whole stick with contact cleaner and it's cured the drift. The only thing is now there is a very slight click/notchy feeling when the stick is moved to the right like something is not quite seated correctly, or something is rubbing inside the actual moving parts of the joystick. I think the PS5 joystick parts are cheap rubbish, made from poor quality plastic and built to fail, meaning you'll buy a new controller every time, making more money in controller sales. Just my opinion.
What do you call those? I'm trying to find them on eBay lol
@@PullOutPapa they are called potentiometers
Hi, I replaced both controllers and still have drift. Could you share a link to these "little white pieces" that you've used from eBay? Cheers.
@@stephennoble2647
Nice clear tutorial thanks. Just had a go on my drifting left stick (it took about 2 hours longer than your video though). It's a massive pain with a handheld solder vacuum, I ended up having to carefully crush the old component with pliers just to get the pins out one by one. Finally get it all back together and... the stick doesn't work at all 😢 AND it's somehow *still* drifting despite not getting any input from the stick! Sony's done a bad job with these controllers...
Yea, without a vacuum desoldering gun it’s not an easy task. I don’t know what advice to give. It the center pin of a potentiometer is open or the trace to it is damage. That could cause it to drift and for that axis to not have any effect. Does either axis have any effect on the joystick you changed?
Yeahhhh.. I think I'll just buy a new controller. JFC
I'm going to have to add controller technician to my goddamn resume after this.
Yep same here 😂
I think ima just start my own business anyone want their ps5 controller fixed hit me up 😂😂😂
I hear ya, this is obviously for people confident and competent enough to do such a thing, I been thinking about trying it if my sticks fail. I'm picky about having good sticks and buttons, I installed the extreme rate paddles on a couple controllers so I have part of this down already. You can get a pack of 4 joysticks for like $8
Bro what, it’s not that difficult. Getting the factory solder off is the only real hurdle.
Great work man! Thanks for sharing this- very helpful in understanding what’s happening with my controllers. Cheers!
No problem 👍
Great video. As an observation: i think sony is using high temperature soldering alloy. With my soldering iron i was not able to melt the material holding pins even with 400 degree set
I would expect it to be probably the cheapest no lead solder there is.
Need to reflow the joint with leaded solder
@@austinduff8833 don't mix leaded solder with unleaded solder if the solder is unleaded use unleaded
@@TheGamingLegend-be9ey why?
@@TheGamingLegend-be9ey why?
⚠️IMPORTANT⚠️
If you just want to replace the sick itself not the component you don’t have to do the hot wiring, i did it myself and it works!
Thank you for sharing. It helps a lot listening to someone who have knowledge of electronic repairs. There are too many E waste already with Sony being one of the culprit. Why Sony does not use Hall effect stick and save us a lot of trouble of repairing this in the first place. The cost isn't even that high. (This include all the console developer) Kudos on your channel. You are a live saver or is that Earth saver.
Glad it was helpful!
I need to get a solder and learn how to solder I’m tired of spending $75 every 3 months on a new PS5 controller I constantly get stick drift I had my PS5 since release and I’m on my 8th controller now
It's not that hard to learn. And if you saved the old controllers will have something to practice on.
Replaced the left stick and it's stuck going to the left. Not sure what I could of done wrong but man it's a moral deflation knowing I messed up somewhere😞
8:22 To anybody who hasn't had to do this yet, be careful when removing and replacing these flexes, the tiny traces can bend and cause the whole pad to not turn on
Thanks for sharing. It's inspired me to try buying and repairing some faulty controllers from eBay but can't decide if it's worth the time and effort.
It does take a bit of time to replace them. More like it's something you want to do. But the controllers are not cheap.
This is the best video i have seen to remove this analog stick all instructions clear and everything well explained👌, im about to do this replacement just asking if you know any desoldering gun that is cheap and good and another thing is, can you use any orange analog stick to replace it?
I don't know of any cheap desoldering guns. You want to make sure the stick is made for PS5. The potentiometer value on the dualsense are around 2k ohm instead of the 10k on the PS4 controllers. I think most of the orange ones will have 2k3 printed on them if they are made fro the dualsense.
@@metalplasticelectronics354 ok no worries ill look for a desoldering gun station and thank you for your reply i was having a hard time for the analog stick type👍
Man you make great videos, this is the first one I watched. I ordered 50 of them for $30, now the wait lol
I hope it goes well.
This was a super-clear and helpful video, thank you. Without this, I would not have attempted this job. My only top-tip is don't be afraid to add in more solder in order to get it all out of the through-holes. I think that helps with heat-transfer. Also I used lots of flux and braided solder wick. In my experience, a desoldering iron is pretty much essential but I managed with one that has a plunger, rather than a motorised vacuum one.
Here is one way with no desoldering iron th-cam.com/video/slxgHcYHnm8/w-d-xo.html Though it does add quite a bit of time to the process.
Fantastic video, i just needed to swap the rubber but i think I'll order a new joystick in advance as its starting to go. Great to know i need a certain one, thank you!
Glad it helped.
What happens if I use the 10k potentiometer anyway? (Take a stick from a P4 controller and throw it on there as a last ditch resort)
I have not tried, but from reports, it seems there is a there is a very high likelihood of drifting.
Thankyou for your video, This has happened to mine after only 4 months...
I'm glad you enjoyed it.
Them using solder that require a HIGHER melting point than usual on a device that doesn't get hot at all is just there to make repairs more difficult...
It's the lead-free solder, it has a higher melting point.
I replaced left analog on ps4 pad but on my ps5 its impossible to even remove vibration cable. Its too solid... i guess i buy new one and experiment on drifting analog Old one later. Thx for video
Thanks for the great video. It’s insane how often these fails and the cost to replace them. Sony should do a better job with these. My PS4 remote lasted me the entire time. I mostly play COD and used to play more back then. I’ve been through 3 PS5 remotes and I barely play.
Thanks for watching!
I acknowledge the skill from this video. The explanation is thorough and clear and yet I am not going to be doing this with my sausage fingers. I'l can live with a little drift
You might want to take a look at this video: th-cam.com/video/slxgHcYHnm8/w-d-xo.html
Really though, as much as the sticks on the dualshock 5 start acting up, they should have designed this to be a fast, easy, one step pop off a front access panel move, and they pop right out.
Wow thought I would have to buy a new controller but now after watching your video I know I have to buy a new one😂
There is this video th-cam.com/video/slxgHcYHnm8/w-d-xo.htmlsi=-dLqe79wx1ckpX_s and if you have a broken controller could always give it a try.
This was extremely stubborn. Added fresh solder, had to crank the heat higher than normal. Desoldering station as well. Still ripped a pad wiggling it out. For the average user, buy a new controller. The cost of the parts, and then either have to pay a professional or buying the right gear to do it your self is not worth over just getting a fresh controller.
It's not an easy part to change, that's for sure.
Best video I ve seen yet on this
Thank you very much.
I’m wondering what temp should I be soldering at, and what’s the best de-solder method/tool,also is brass fine for soldering here?
I really don’t know how well the cheaper vacuum desoldering stations work. Amazon has a bunch of different models. But that type of tool works better than anything else I’ve ever tried. Probably for the grounds going to need up around 700F/380C, maybe a bit more. But going to depend on the soldering iron and some what on the solder. I’m not sure what you mean by brass. The solder for electronics will solder brass. Probably will want some extra flux for it.
I bought potentiometers from an amazon listing that didnt specify the value that you show on the multimeter they ship tomorrow I wonder if we bought from the same listing but the brand does say alps. could I just replace the disc thing itself? is there a name for that disc thing?
If your replacing alps for alps, then you don’t have to remove then entire joystick. Can just remove the three leaded potentiometer element and replace it. It just clips in the joystick metal frame.
@@metalplasticelectronics354 thank you for responding im gonna follow these instructions when everything arrives
maybe same manufacturer, but they lowered the quality with the years, my dualshock 4 sticks are stronger while the dualsense requires little force to move.
I think the Favor Union and the Alps are made cheaper these days.
@@metalplasticelectronics354 do you know any stick that is has similar resistance to the ones on the DS4? I think ill just change the pots for the hall effect for now (if i can desolder it).
great video. i tried doing your steps and i quit after doing the soldering cause i think i have shaking hand syndrom and it looked like crap. i broke the pins to the mic while putting it back together. i gave it to my kids to try out and the player on the screen was spazing out. i am just gonna stick to my day job and by a new one
I’m sorry it didn’t work, but I hope you at least had some fun trying.
Seems like a pretty common problem so far unfortunately. 3 months after ordering my scuf fps reflex my joystick went bad. Not just drift unusable flickers
I hope it's still under warranty.
I noticed the back plastic mold starting to flex inward. I think it may contribute to the sticks drifting with ps5 controllers.
I could only see that having an effect if it could flex the PC board the joystick is mounted on.
@@metalplasticelectronics354 that is the theory
Buying the necessary tools alone will cost as much as a new controller so nope.
That's why I did this video th-cam.com/video/slxgHcYHnm8/w-d-xo.html. It can be done without spending a lot on tools.
My left joystick is pushing left without touching it. I have only had this ps5 for about 5 months, and it was indeed purchased new.
I think they are supposed to have a 1 year warranty, so before pulling it apart I would try and contact Sony.
Hello, I started soldering as a hobby to replace a DualSense analog stick. While looking for a replacement method on TH-cam, I came across MPE's video. And I lost my mind when I realized that it was difficult to replace and that I had to use a FR-301 product or a heat gun just to improve my skills in handling a soldering iron.
\In the end, I bought the FR-301 with a lot of thought, but I wonder why it's almost impossible to replace the analog stick module itself as long as you handle the soldering iron well. Could you possibly get an answer to this?
And I really enjoy watching MPE's videos. Especially, your voice is like a voice actor from the Discovery Channel, which is very attractive. have a good day.
I think when they design the thing there is no though put into them being repaired. It’s a bit of a job just to get to the joystick. It is possible to use a very small pair of side cutters and cut the joystick leads. Then just remove one lead at a time. But still a possibility of damaging the PC board by the cutting process. What are you thoughts on the Hakko FR-301? And thank you for watching and the comment.
@@metalplasticelectronics354 I don't think Sony has left open the possibility of replacing the analog module of dualsense. Even at the official after-sales center, partial repairs or replacements are carried out only within one year, and after that, they refuse to pay repairs because they are consumables. In the video, I saw that there is a high possibility of PCB damage without a vacuum disoldering tool or a heating gun, so I purchased the FR-301, which I have been eyeing. The country of origin is Japan, and in Japan, considering the exchange rate, it is only about $150, but in Korea, it is an expensive piece of equipment that costs about $330. However, the performance is thought to be very good, and in fact, mechanical keyboard enthusiasts use it a lot for lubrication. Anyway, I was worried about where to buy reliable parts, but I saw the video and purchased the parts from kasynparts. thank you!
Look up hall effect joysticks - this is the design-tech solution that has been gaining attention and should be offered more and more as part of or as replaceable option going forward
Currently trying to get my analog with a fr301 and I've gone over all of the pins and I still cannot remove the analog. Any tips ?
@@mr2k_all_day Get some tweezers and wiggle the pins to find out which ones are stuck. If it is just a tiny bit of solder you may be able heat it with a soldering iron and free it just by moving it a bit with the tweezers. Otherwise resolder the stuck pins, then try cleaning them again. You probably didn't heat up the joint enough before pulling vacuum, so try turning up the heat on the 301.
My controller just started doing the exact same thing. Driving me nuts, not even a year old.
great video? but whatbudget tools would you reccomend for this i am looking to start myself.
Take a look at these videos: th-cam.com/video/slxgHcYHnm8/w-d-xo.htmlsi=E5XgcRxwQ4vUlwW9 and th-cam.com/video/1CyXQey4vwI/w-d-xo.htmlsi=qicdacTY40YgUnWx . I have some of the items listed in the description.
I ordered new parts for my controller I replaced the left analog stick because my character walked to the left a lot and it worked it stopped doing it but when i replaced it the right started acting up it the camera started to move to the right I replaced that it sort of fixed it it Went from scrolling to the right to slightly stick drifting to the left please help
Are the replacement potentiometers the right value. Some places selling 10 kohm for the DualSense when they should be 2k. Or the new potentiometer may not be in good shape. I ordered 20 Favor Union joysticks. 1 of the 20 had a potentiometer that was defective.
Starting to hate these, the slightest too much heat kills something near the analog sticks, rather getting two flashing lights or random clicking noises inside the triggers. Same with the charging port. Hard to fix I think compared to others, then again I've had an antenna snap on the xbox pads their that small.
What are the tools you used and where did you get them? And what's solder when you said you were putting it on the pins??
The solder is Kester 44 63/37, but any good solder will do. The tin lead has a bit lower melting point than the lead-free, so it is a bit easier on the PC board. The vacuum desoldering gun is a very old Hakko 470, it's been discontinued for years. The soldering iron is a Hakko FX-951. It's the best soldering iron I've ever had, but a bit on the expensive side.
Thank you for making such a video and it is very helpful for your explanation❤🙏
My pleasure 😊
This was a massive help. Thank you.
Glad it helped.
didn't expect to need a solding tool, well now i have a lose controller oeps
Hey man just curious i'm new to soldering what measurement's for the wire did you use? or does it matter?
I like the thinner solder diameters, I believe in the video I was using 0.031 diameter solder. It doesn't matter that much on these larger pins. The thinner solder does cost a bit more.
I wish it was a uncommon failure but seeing as in two and a half years I have gone through five controllers I think that makes it a pretty common issue considering I have a family and a full-time job and only have a low amount of hours on my PlayStation 5. I just ordered for potentiometers from Amazon rated at 2.3 k so hopefully I can get four of my controllers back up to 100%. Was $20 for 4pots and all nessisary tols
2.2k for ps5 great thing he knows the favor union
Can you make the same video without the tools I have to buy?😅 if there are tools I have to buy please place links where I can order them online.❤
Take a look at the end of this video for most of the tools used, they all came from Amazon: th-cam.com/video/slxgHcYHnm8/w-d-xo.htmlsi=NiM9ROtga82YcapT
I own 6 of these controller and 3 of them have failed within the first year with heavy use, and the other 3 are new enough that they haven't yet. what a mess.
It sure seems the quality of the joystick modules has gone down.
Thank you for the video.
Btw, I don't think the value of the potentiometer matters… unless the pcb reads the value of it, which highly doubt.
I don’t think it reads the value of the potentiometer. One end of each goes to ground and the other end if I remember right is at 1.8 volts. But I think several people have had centering problems using the 10K pot values. It depends on how the voltage is read. If it’s just a basic SAR ADC then the difference between the 10K ohm and 2.1K ohm could have some effect on the sample and hold values. I think it’s safer just to replace with the 2.1 or 2.3K potentiometers. To much work to have to redo it. And thanks for the comment. I do appreciate it.
I’ve had controller’s since release of the ps5 I was able to get it day 1 and I’m finally seeing slight drift not bad I’ll just buy a new on wish I did for black friday
Could you please tell me the exact model of the vacuum desoldering tool you used in this video? I want to purchase the same one to ensure I get the right tool.
if you know of a similar but cheaper model, I'd be interested in that as well. Thank you! :)
It is a very old Hakko 470. It's been discontinued for many years. It's so old I wouldn't even risk one on Ebay. There are quite a few on Amazon around the $150 range. I have no idea how well they work. But they maybe knock offs of the Hakko.
@@metalplasticelectronics354 Thanks a lot 🙏
Hey guys, my buttons stoped working, so it was already not working. I tried opening and cleaning, its pretty easy. So much better than buy a new one. $75 is too much put every year. But its mostly out of principle.
Do you also have clicking sound of the analog sticks when simply moving them slightly into a direction? Only my original dual sense with the console did not do this. It's annoying as hell. And after four replacements I gave up
No, no clicking sound. Did all your replacements come from the same place? Do they make the clicking sound unmounted and do you know what brand they are?
@@metalplasticelectronics354 im not talking about the analog stick replacements. the whole controller was replaced 4 times by sony. even with a new revision controller. take a look at reddit or youtube. this is the worst quality i have ever seen. dualshock 4 made no problems at all with sticks. i have even coil whine with dualsense
Oh I was thinking about the replacement joystick. I went and checked the one I replaced and it makes no noise. But I went back and checked the ones that hadn’t been replace. And they all make a small noise. So I would imagine that would mean the noise is coming from the joysticks they are using. I’ll have to look into a bit more.
@@metalplasticelectronics354 today I could check for the first time in a shop dual sense controller. One controller was fine, the other one had the same issue as mine. Sony's qa seems to be still bad
It may be who makes the joysticks. I've tried 2 alps and both make a sound. I've tried 3 Favor Union and none of those made a sound. But that's not a big trial.
my first time using a soder, what temperature should I have it on? I dont want to mess up anything, I also bought a solder sucker, does that require anything special?
730 F works well.
Orange potentiometer are 10k but grey ones have no writing on them. I assume they’re 2.3k as later PS4 models use the grey ones too like the PS5 one. I replaced the white part only but it’s marginally of centre so doesn’t go back to dead centre unless it’s flung back itself from max position.
It may be part of the potentiometer element has worn. Does it move smoothly around the center area or jerk a bit when moved?
@@metalplasticelectronics354 it moves smoothly. If I let it go back to dead centre itself from max position, it goes to 0%. A gentle push of the joystick and it’ll to back to 2% unless I gently touch the thumb stick then it stays at 0%. Other side of potent. might be worn but soldering is hard.
It may be it is worn somewhat. Might try and recalibrate the controller. Take a look at this: th-cam.com/video/0fK1sapv0YI/w-d-xo.htmlsi=n52R8aQgmtS09jGt.
@@metalplasticelectronics354 I did thank you. Recalibrated and it’s working perfectly now. Will replace the full potentiometer when it fails again.
The required soldering toolset and skills are definitely not well mentioned in replacement products. This is pretty effortful. Might not be worth the effort tbh
It's has to be something you want to do. Because it is a bit of work.
Great video! Definitely the safest way to replace. Unfortunately while attempting this, the capacitor above the left analog stick blew away! There’s one on the right side with a resistance of around 700ohms (not sure the capacitance). If you know the value / name of the capacitor on the left and where to source that would be great! Thanks. [Board is BDM 010]
I sure don't. You might check and see if the ends of the capacitor connect to the ground and the supply pins of the joystick potentiometers. If so, it's probably just a bypass cap, and the value will not be that critical. I think they are 0201 size. If the length is about 1 mm, then they are 0402. If the length is about 0.6 mm, then they are 0201. Amazon used to sell some SMD chip capacitor kits. If they don't, then you will probably have to order from a place like Mouser or DigiKey. For a bypass cap, I would try a 100 nanofarad to start with.
Thanks so much! Will let you know how it goes.
[update] spot on! They look about 0.6mm (so 0201) and my reading was 127nf !!
Thanks for replying so quickly, I thought my controller was a goner 🤣!
Will order them now :)
Well made video. Didactic and to the point.
Can I ask you, what about the new hall effect modules? Ahould they have the same resitance? (2.3 for ps5 and 10 for ps4?) How can I tell them apart woth certainty?
Thanks in advance.
I'm not sure how interchangeable the Hall effect joystick modules are. The DualSense controller joysticks run at 1.8 volts. If the Hall sensor in the joystick runs at that low of a voltage, then it will probably work in the DualSense. I've only tried one type of Hall joystick at present. I've ordered a set from Amazon that looks like K-silver ones, but the description doesn't say anything about the brand. I'll see when I get them. I'll make a video on them.
@@metalplasticelectronics354 Great. Thanks.
2yrs later i say it is not a rear issue almsot worth getting dulsence edge at this point or a aftermarkt one
Excellent video! Do you have a link to the vice that you were using in the vid? TY
This is the model I have: a.co/d/9oAjDkx . But there are other brands that look the same that are cheaper.
great job! thanks for video man
I'm glad you like it.
Thanks for this video. I'm wondering if it's possible to do this replacement using hall effect joysticks instead? My left Dualsense stick is starting to drift, so I'd like to go ahead and swap out both with something that should never have this problem again.
I don't know. Might have to be a hall joystick made for the DualSense. The move from 10K in the DualShock, to 2K potentiometers makes me wonder if they lowered the reference voltage to the joystick.
@@metalplasticelectronics354 Do you think unsoldering the GuliKit Electromagnetic Module Joystick for Steam Deck from it's board and soldering it to the PS5 board would work?
I doubt it. The output from them is probably the hall sensor voltage.
Look up hall effect joysticks - this is the design-tech solution that has been gaining attention and should be offered more and more as part of or as replaceable option going forward
This is my thought as well. My controller hasn't drifted yet thankfully but i know it will someday. I wish that there will be replacement hall effect joystick specifically for the dualsense 5 in the near future.
So for every TH-cam video I’ve watched, replacing the joystick works and no adjustments need to be done, yet every single time I replace the joysticks, they are off center, sometimes by 20% or more, am I doing something wrong? Frying the motherboard by heating the holes too much? It’s basically every joystick, I’ll occasionally get one within 5% but never centered, a response would mean the world to me
The replacement is almost never dead center. Is it good enough to use is the thing. And I guess that depends on the user. I do check the resistance of the replacement joystick. If the center value is off by more than 20% I toss that one. In my batch of 20 joysticks I ordered, one was outside that range. If you want it to be aligned as accurately as the original, that’s going to be near impossible. Would have to measure the values of the original pots center offset. And then would have to hunt through probably hundreds of replacements to find a close enough match.
My controller had stick drift at 3 months of having the ps5, i only used it on weekends, smh....
If you build drones this is a walk in the park!
Hi! Can I send my controllers to you to replace the joy sticks of my ps5 and nintendo pro controller?
No, sorry I can't take stuff in. You might see if there is a small phone repair place in your area, wouldn't hurt to ask them.
about different resistor values of ps4 and ps5 joysticks : i can confirm 100 valid. Found out the hard way. Installed wrong one in ps5 and it is not working at all.
Is it okay to skip the shouldering or is it a necessity?
Soldering is required. Take a look at this video: th-cam.com/video/slxgHcYHnm8/w-d-xo.htmlsi=z3UYj2km5MZMXnh0
Been through 3 controllers since release. Seems they went cheap to sell the edge
I've deep cleaned multiple ps4's slim, original, etc.....thought this would be nothing till he pulled out the soldering iron.....new controller it is 😂
But wouldn't it be fun to try?
Is there any way to fix a joystick without replacement? Mine doesn’t drift anymore but the top part of the joystick came loose and spins
Is it the joystick shaft that is spinning or something broke loose in the knob? I doubt a glue would hold the joystick shaft so probably have to replace it.
@@metalplasticelectronics354 the knob came loose
I think you can by just the replacement knobs from Amazon. It will require pulling the PC board out of the controller. But you don't have to unsoldered anything.
Why cant i just replace the sensor piece instead of the whole analog stick
You can, and it’s much easier than replacing the entire joystick module. You just have to get the right potentiometers. The Alps and Favor Union potentiometers are not interchangeable. I go over a couple of ways of removing the potentiometers in this video: th-cam.com/video/slxgHcYHnm8/w-d-xo.html
ONE IMPORTANT QUESTION/PROBLEM, i replaced the right module on my bdm 030 controller, i had serious stickdrift and it got fixed, EXCEPT now it is SLIGHTLY is off centre (10%↗️). Why is this happening?
The new potentiometers are that much different from the original ones.
Sony have made it ridiculously complicated to repair a dualsense controller. I've never known such an awkward controller to disassemble.
It’s very common. I’m on controller number 2 and it just broke and I’ve only had the ps5 a year and a half. And both controllers broke after 6 months.
The joystick modules are a real weak spot for these.
@@metalplasticelectronics354 I just got the dual sense edge because I can’t deal with this again.
@@SuperCarsFromTheHoodDualsense Edge has the exact same problem y'know.
At that price range you're better off with a HYPR modified Dualsense with electromagnetic joysticks for a longer joystick lifespan
Great i just bought joysticks from amazon forbthis job, now i gotta dig out my multimeter and check them....
All good they tested proper numbers
I really appreciate that info, if I didn't know I might have accidentally put in a PS4 potentiometer on my PS5 controller board
I sure wish Sony would add an app to calibrate the joysticks, would save a ton of aggravation.
Just tell me one thing...i have orange colour potentiometers 2.3K.Will green coloured 2.3K work instead of the orange one?
If you are replacing the entire joystick, yes. But if you just want to replace the potentiometers, then no.
Excellent video as always. I tried something similar but the new analog stick wasn’t calibrated. Similar to the point that I removed the analog sticks and changed the potentiometers. But after putting it all back together, the stick drifted. Can these sticks be calibrated like the ones in the Hall effects sticks video?
No, you sure can't. The only thing you can do is use a meter and try to find a replacement potentiometer that is close to the original one.
@@metalplasticelectronics354 Thank you for the prompt reply. I see. Then it must have been something with the analog stick I was using or maybe the stick wasn’t properly seated.
My controller is also drifting to the left, designed to fail.
I have the god of war ps5 controller, no sticks drift still have the controller over 2 year
What if u don’t have the hot thing
Hello so can i replace the ps5 joystick with a ps4 one
Should work somewhat but they are different values. Would be best to use the correct joysticks. And if you are going to go to the trouble to replace them why not go with a Hall effect or TMR joystick so you won't have to worry about it again?
I should get myself a heating pad.. I currently use a frying pan weighed down with a road spike.
What I'm wondering is where you got that handy little mount to hold the board in place.
It came from Amazon. Think the same thing is sold under a bunch of different brands. Just search pc board holder.
@metalplasticelectronics354 just ordered a similar board holder, and a cheapish desoldering tool!
Thanks for the video & link, I ordered extras. Got a controller to fix, I'll probably wind up grabbing extra controllers off marketplace too.
What kinda gun is dat. That’s the part I’m stuck on on my controller
It's a long-discontinued Hakko 470 vacuum desoldering gun. Take a look at this video for some ideas on removing the joystick without one: th-cam.com/video/slxgHcYHnm8/w-d-xo.htmlsi=5N4x1dj0lCTTPnjh
Beginner here. Any tips in the case of one the haptics wires being broken as mentioned at 2:43?
Thanks for the video.
Depends on where it’s broken at. If it’s still long enough to reach to the PC board, then just strip a bit of the insulation off the wire and solder it back. If it broke at the haptic motor, I don’t know if they can be gotten into without tearing them up. If the wire is still there, just too short. Will need a bit of small wire to extend it. Be best to have some small heat shrink tubing, but some electrical tape will work as well. Want to make sure where the wires are joined don’t short to anything. Good luck.
Just a question. How are using the soldering tool to remove the pins? If you heat them aren't they gonna melt in more and get stuck?
If you are asking about the vacuum desoldering tool, It just gets hot enough to melt solder, and then when the trigger is pulled, a small vacuum pump is started, sucking the solder out of the PC board hole. At least it does when working correctly.
Once the solder is hot enough to be in a liquid state, the pump quickly sucks it up
Any vacuum disoldering tool will just work fine? Or should I get a specific one?
I only have experience with a couple of the old Hakkos. They are great, but the current ones are very expensive. If I was replaceing my old Hakko I would probably try one of the cheap ones from Amazon. It not someting I use every day.
Tried everything you did in here and can’t get it desoldered. It’s melting but can’t get the holes empty
You can cut apart the joystick module with some small side cutters and remove 1 pin at a time. Just be careful not to damage any other parts on the board. There’s some really small capacitors close to the joystick modules. If the hole still has solder in it. Put fresh solder on the pad and try again with the vacuum desolder tool or solder wick to clean the hole out. Can us a small stainless steel needle to push the melted solder out if all else fails.
i snapped the black thing in the analog box how can i swap it from an old controller?
If it's a broken piece in the joystick module, you will have to replace the entire module.
what? Iliterally did this without saudering... why do that to me?
What is the tool you use at first? The tool to melt throuch the chip. It is not a regular solding tool is it ?? I am looking for a similar item.. but i bought two already, but both cant get through, or they cant melt the solding away… do you have the name of the tool that you use ??
If you are talking about the tool used at about the 3:50 time. That is an old Hakko 470 desoldering gun. The soldering iron used to remove the haptic motor wires at the 2:45 time is a Hakko FX-951 soldering station.
Thanks !!😁
I've been trying to de solder it for an hour. I give up.
Take a look at this video, it may help th-cam.com/video/slxgHcYHnm8/w-d-xo.html
Put a new extreme tension stick on my bdm 020, but it pulls max hard to the left... So i got another stick module to replace, and that ones doing the same thing... I think maybe i damaged the board somehwo? It doesnt look like ot but idk what else it could be. Not sure if i should cut my losses or get a new main pcb for the controllwr (47$) and then redo it? ... Ugh. Feels kinda hopeless.. i had a hell of a time with desoldering... Ended up using flat cutters to chop the pins on the opposite side, then pull module off then clesr holes with my crappy desolder plunger and wick. 🙄 I ordered a vacuum desolderer, so that should help. Is it even worth paying 50 when i can get a new controller for like 70? Ugh i feel lost and cant find a resource for help anywherw on resdit or on forums
If it's at maximum left, then that means probably 0 volts going to the processor. Do you have a multimeter? If so, check the voltage on the pins of the left-right potentiometer. The left pin should be ground, the center pin should be around 0.9 volts, and the right pin should be 1.8 volts. If the 1.8 is missing, then you know it's the trace to that pin. You can run a thin wire from the other 1.8-volt up-down potentiometer pin. If the center pin does have about 0.9 volts on it, it's probably the trace back to the processor. That one is much harder to run a jumper on.
I did the whole josytick replacement now the d-pad only goes to left and the joystick is non-responsive. I checked all the solders nothing seems touching each other. What is the possible cause?
Double check and make sure all the flat flexible cables are plugged in good. Might look closely around the area especially near the ICs, looking for any solder splatter. I don’t know how the D-pad is related to the joysticks.
@@metalplasticelectronics354 Thanks for your reply and video by the way. Not sure if the assembly I bought is defective. It is the same assembly that you use in your video. I will double check it or desolder everything and replace with my other extra parts.