OMG i destroyed my first controller and my 2nd one i found you. A true legend and a life savior. Hat off to you my friend. A like and a sub is well deserve
I wanted to add a USB-C port to my DS4 since the micro USB port got broken, but now that I opened it I wanted to put newer and better hall effect joystick modules on it, alluminium sticks to avoid wear and a way bigger battery. You just made my day! I was struggling to do it with a heat gun for wood and my soldering iron. Thanks to your tutorial I can keep going with this project. The heat gun was too weak for this even at 480 degrees Celsius and the smallest tip lol, so I had no choice but to use the soldering iron... This controller is perfect for PC and I doubt I'll need a better one anytime soon, the game won't change much until we're daily driving VR headsets or smth hahaha. Thank you for helping me future-proof my beauty!
Amazing video thankyou! Never done anything like this before but managed to replace the potentiometer in my little guy's controller and it's now working perfectly! I couldn't wick clear one of the pcb holes despite many attempts adding solder and wicking. Eventually I tried very carefully from the top side of the board and it wicked almost instantly.
This video is great! Thank you. Im among the people where I cant stand the "click" noise the joysticks make. I recently bought the edge controller and am planning on replacing the joystick with the nonclick ones you recommend in your last video. Haven't soldered anything in years but looking forward to this as a fun experiment. Can you think of anyway of stopping that click sound without needing to solder?
Great Video, I tried my first repair and it didn't go that smooth... but once i seen your video. i did like you and add soldier to the area and if the wick didn't suck it up I would add more... I just had to clean up the extra solder on the board and it was done.. BTW I used a heat gun. Thanks for the tips it helped me a lot.
13:00 ooooh this might be what I knocked when I tried my first "repair" on a donor/training controller. It connect to a PC but only shows a dim green light and nothing works so I figured I shorted something but couldn't find it. Might be that tiny thing
Amazing video! I have watched a ton of dualsense instructional vids but this one is the best. One question I do have though: When I removed the joystick and wicked the solder off I seemed to have ripped off the metal plating around some of the through holes and now I cant get solder to stick. Is there a way to repair that? will the controller ever work properly again? If not then I'll chalk it up to an learning experience but I thought I'd ask.
You will have to find the PC board trace that went to the pad that was damaged and run a wire to it. The center pin of the sensor will be the hardest to track down. If a ground pad is damaged, then it's easy to run a wire to one of the joystick frame pins. If it's the 1.8-volt supply pad it depends on which one. Can take a look at this video here for some hints: th-cam.com/video/cWUnZ7KjUIQ/w-d-xo.htmlsi=sYuz0IrK3ZMN8s3x
Hello. I wanted to thank you on your educational videos. I have one question, on 13:00 i accidentally ripped off tiny capacitor. Now, the controller works for a few seconds and turns off. Could it be because of this, or the welding of hall sensor is bad? I googled capacitor, it seems like its 100 pF, super small, im having a super hard time trying to solder it back, couldn't manage to do it, it wont stick to the board. I would appreciate your opinion and advice. Thanx
If it's one of the bypass capacitors, I doubt that is causing the problem. Make sure the pads where the capacitor came from are not shorted. A short is a common cause for the controller to power up and then shut off.
Do you have a video of only changing the potentiometer pad rather than the whole stick? I did it myself but for some reason the right direction if the stick does not register at all.
I thought i was smart in cutting the legs off the joystick module with some craft snips before desoldering the leftover bit of pin in each hole. It ended up scratching the surface of the pcb and did reveal some of the traces which isn't ideal. I will try your method of the total destruction of the module before desoldering them out piece by piece next time.
I've found removing the joystick frame one pin at a time is the safest for the PCB. At least removing the potentiometers first saves the most important pads and traces from damage.
Not really, if you have a particular item in mind I can probably find a link to where I bought it. I have links in some of the later videos to some items. But most of the stuff in this video I've had for years.
amazing video but could you please make another video like this on how to remove the original joystick without destroying it? I have replaced already about 10 modules so far but the funny thing is the first 2 or 3 i managed to remove the whole module including the potentiometers in 1 piece but the last 6-7 were a pain and I had to destroy the modules. Would really appreciate it.
I have this video: th-cam.com/video/gutW_ABGlUA/w-d-xo.htmlsi=bXCesqM_WEoqIxli. But without the proper tools hard to remove it without damaging the PC board.
How many watts and volts is your soldering iron? Mine is 40W and 120V. I absolutely cannot get any of the solder to melt at all. Been trying for a few days now, with flux, with a braid, with additional solder, and cannot get it to melt
If I remember right it is 75 watts. The temperature is set to 730 F. 40 watts is a bit low, and if it's not a temperature-controlled iron you will need to get something better. Look for a temperature-controlled 60-watt or more iron.
@@metalplasticelectronics354 awesome, im getting a ps5 but dont want to keep buying controllers. overall do you think its worth going for the hall effect joysticks when the current ones break
Nice video my friend. One question for you, i change the analogs on Xbox controller with a analogs from DualSense, so my new analogs now works on 2.3K, what you think about that? I think 2.3K have more precise sensitivity than original 10K, what you think? 😁
@@metalplasticelectronics354 Ok, yes. I just like more Alps analogs for Sony, because of a spring tension inside, but also i think they are more sensitive to drift than versions for Xbox. Maybe i try also Hall Effect versions, i just watch your video about them. 👍
Maybe my soldering iron is shit, or maybe the unleaded solder on dualshock 4 is too stubborn but I can't get the solder holding the pins to melt easily.
Using plenty of new solder will help. There are even low melting point solders than tin/lead, don’t want to leave them on the joint, just used for removing parts. But the original solder on the things not so easy to work with.
OMG i destroyed my first controller and my 2nd one i found you. A true legend and a life savior. Hat off to you my friend. A like and a sub is well deserve
Thanks
I wanted to add a USB-C port to my DS4 since the micro USB port got broken, but now that I opened it I wanted to put newer and better hall effect joystick modules on it, alluminium sticks to avoid wear and a way bigger battery. You just made my day! I was struggling to do it with a heat gun for wood and my soldering iron. Thanks to your tutorial I can keep going with this project.
The heat gun was too weak for this even at 480 degrees Celsius and the smallest tip lol, so I had no choice but to use the soldering iron...
This controller is perfect for PC and I doubt I'll need a better one anytime soon, the game won't change much until we're daily driving VR headsets or smth hahaha. Thank you for helping me future-proof my beauty!
I’m glad you enjoyed it.
Thank you so much - I managed to replace both joysticks with hall effect ones, saved money and learned something new :)
You made my week man thanks.
Glad to hear it!
So far as I'm following, you're a legend :) nearly one joystick down!
Holy crap I did it! I replaced one of my PS5 edge joysticks with a nonclick joystick and it works perfectly, thank you so much!
Fantastic!
Thank you so much, this was the best tutorial so far on this. I just did this for my DS4.
Glad it helped!
Thanks for the video, this was my first time working on anything electronics related and my second try was a success!
Excellent!
THIS IS SO EDUCATIONAL THANK U
Bro makes it look easy! Even when taking the longway
Amazing video thankyou! Never done anything like this before but managed to replace the potentiometer in my little guy's controller and it's now working perfectly! I couldn't wick clear one of the pcb holes despite many attempts adding solder and wicking. Eventually I tried very carefully from the top side of the board and it wicked almost instantly.
Glad it helped
Thank you for making this.
My pleasure!
This video is great! Thank you.
Im among the people where I cant stand the "click" noise the joysticks make. I recently bought the edge controller and am planning on replacing the joystick with the nonclick ones you recommend in your last video. Haven't soldered anything in years but looking forward to this as a fun experiment.
Can you think of anyway of stopping that click sound without needing to solder?
Not really, just can't get down to the spring to do anything with it.
Great Video, I tried my first repair and it didn't go that smooth... but once i seen your video. i did like you and add soldier to the area and if the wick didn't suck it up I would add more... I just had to clean up the extra solder on the board and it was done.. BTW I used a heat gun. Thanks for the tips it helped me a lot.
Glad it was helpful.
you are the GOAT
Super clean job and informative. Thanks for sharing
Very welcome.
13:00 ooooh this might be what I knocked when I tried my first "repair" on a donor/training controller. It connect to a PC but only shows a dim green light and nothing works so I figured I shorted something but couldn't find it. Might be that tiny thing
Amazing video! I have watched a ton of dualsense instructional vids but this one is the best.
One question I do have though: When I removed the joystick and wicked the solder off I seemed to have ripped off the metal plating around some of the through holes and now I cant get solder to stick. Is there a way to repair that? will the controller ever work properly again? If not then I'll chalk it up to an learning experience but I thought I'd ask.
You will have to find the PC board trace that went to the pad that was damaged and run a wire to it. The center pin of the sensor will be the hardest to track down. If a ground pad is damaged, then it's easy to run a wire to one of the joystick frame pins. If it's the 1.8-volt supply pad it depends on which one. Can take a look at this video here for some hints: th-cam.com/video/cWUnZ7KjUIQ/w-d-xo.htmlsi=sYuz0IrK3ZMN8s3x
Hello. I wanted to thank you on your educational videos. I have one question, on 13:00 i accidentally ripped off tiny capacitor. Now, the controller works for a few seconds and turns off. Could it be because of this, or the welding of hall sensor is bad? I googled capacitor, it seems like its 100 pF, super small, im having a super hard time trying to solder it back, couldn't manage to do it, it wont stick to the board. I would appreciate your opinion and advice. Thanx
If it's one of the bypass capacitors, I doubt that is causing the problem. Make sure the pads where the capacitor came from are not shorted. A short is a common cause for the controller to power up and then shut off.
I o my have one specific question I just want to know what type of soldering wire material that is needed to replace a broken joystick
I would use any good quality tin/lead solder. I'm using Kester 44, it's my favorite.
Great video my friend. But, why did you have to cut the metal parts? Why don't you heat and remove it as a whole unit?
To be gentle to the PC board.
When replacing a ds4 potentiometer should I use 2.3kohms or 10k?
10K or one of the non-contact joysticks made for the dualshock4
Do you have a video of only changing the potentiometer pad rather than the whole stick? I did it myself but for some reason the right direction if the stick does not register at all.
This video: th-cam.com/video/slxgHcYHnm8/w-d-xo.html Starting at about 1:20, there are two methods to remove just the potentiometer.
I thought i was smart in cutting the legs off the joystick module with some craft snips before desoldering the leftover bit of pin in each hole. It ended up scratching the surface of the pcb and did reveal some of the traces which isn't ideal. I will try your method of the total destruction of the module before desoldering them out piece by piece next time.
I've found removing the joystick frame one pin at a time is the safest for the PCB. At least removing the potentiometers first saves the most important pads and traces from damage.
Do you have links for the supplies?
Not really, if you have a particular item in mind I can probably find a link to where I bought it. I have links in some of the later videos to some items. But most of the stuff in this video I've had for years.
amazing video but could you please make another video like this on how to remove the original joystick without destroying it? I have replaced already about 10 modules so far but the funny thing is the first 2 or 3 i managed to remove the whole module including the potentiometers in 1 piece but the last 6-7 were a pain and I had to destroy the modules. Would really appreciate it.
I have this video: th-cam.com/video/gutW_ABGlUA/w-d-xo.htmlsi=bXCesqM_WEoqIxli. But without the proper tools hard to remove it without damaging the PC board.
How many watts and volts is your soldering iron? Mine is 40W and 120V. I absolutely cannot get any of the solder to melt at all. Been trying for a few days now, with flux, with a braid, with additional solder, and cannot get it to melt
If I remember right it is 75 watts. The temperature is set to 730 F. 40 watts is a bit low, and if it's not a temperature-controlled iron you will need to get something better. Look for a temperature-controlled 60-watt or more iron.
@@metalplasticelectronics354 Thank you, I really appreciate it. I will try this.
Do you have to solder all the leads?
Yes
so i replaced to module on the ps5 controller bust doesnt connect anymore to pc wit kabel but the led goos one any solution?
Have you tried doing a hardware reset?
@@metalplasticelectronics354 you mean controller reset? of wdm i am kinda new to this :P
Great video!
Thanks!
Out of curiosity, how hot did you have your soldering iron for this?
Usually run it at 730 degrees F.
would have been awsome to see how to remove the poti from the stick
does it need calibratng once installed?
Unless you are very lucky. But now that software is available to calibrate them it's easy to do.
@@metalplasticelectronics354 awesome, im getting a ps5 but dont want to keep buying controllers. overall do you think its worth going for the hall effect joysticks when the current ones break
Nice video my friend. One question for you, i change the analogs on Xbox controller with a analogs from DualSense, so my new analogs now works on 2.3K, what you think about that? I think 2.3K have more precise sensitivity than original 10K, what you think? 😁
Going a lower value is safer than going up in value, but will use a bit more battery.
@@metalplasticelectronics354 Ok, yes. I just like more Alps analogs for Sony, because of a spring tension inside, but also i think they are more sensitive to drift than versions for Xbox. Maybe i try also Hall Effect versions, i just watch your video about them. 👍
Maybe my soldering iron is shit, or maybe the unleaded solder on dualshock 4 is too stubborn but I can't get the solder holding the pins to melt easily.
Using plenty of new solder will help. There are even low melting point solders than tin/lead, don’t want to leave them on the joint, just used for removing parts. But the original solder on the things not so easy to work with.
Thank you so much!
You're welcome!
You have a voice that would be good for audio books. Or narrating on nature documentaries or films .🎮
Very nice of you to say.
Assuming u made this vid because not everyone has/can afford a desotering vacum?
Yes, it's a bit much to expect someone to spend a couple hundred dollars for a tool to try and fix a game controller.
"sorder"
wtf is sodder? I didn’t have a fadder to teach me this
Solder...
Bro said basic tools🤣
There's alot of things wrong in this video he keeps saying "sorder" when it solder