So for the people saying that they would rather just buy another controller, I get that. But the reason why you would want to learn how to do this is because every single controller will eventually get problems with their joysticks down the line when you use them regularly. Yes there is some initial cost upfront for the soldering equipment but in the long run you'll be able to repair this issue when it crops up again for the cost of the replacement joystick module, which is like £5 for 2. Not to mention its a great little project to get you started with soldering.
Actually all toolkits with analogs cost less than 7 dollars and for the next time, only analog sticks will cost around $2. Imagine wasting $60 because you don't want to learn something useful. 20 min. of work for $55.
Honestly it's got me looking seriously at a hot air station, because it seems to reduce the friction of these sorts of repairs and mods (dc jacks, analogue sticks, making fight sticks ps5 compatible), and you can easily save AUD $70, $100, $300 (fight stick), $500 (laptop) at a time.
@@goti4no820 Yes, there are Rosen Core Solders and Acid Core Solders. It is not advisable to use acid-core solder on electronics. You also need to be careful not to mix traditional lead-based solder with most modern lead-free solders. The European Union Waste Electrical and Electronic Equipment Directive and Restriction of Hazardous Substances Directive were adopted in early 2003 and came into effect on July 1, 2006, restricting the inclusion of lead in most consumer electronics sold in the EU, and having a broad effect on consumer electronics sold worldwide. Lead free solder has a higher melting point.
Effort is one thing, but to do this the first time - i'll first need to buy a thin smoldering iron, a hot air gun and a smolder sucker. New controller seems cheaper. But it seems that analogs can be fixed by putting dielectric oil on the moving sensors inside the sides of the analog box - i wonder if that can be done without tearing it off...
Thanks to this video I just fixed a gen 1 dualshock 4 controller with a very basic soldering iron and the same solder sucker as you. Having a decent soldering iron, wick and adjustable clamps would have saved me more time. But it was worth it in the end, so I thank you.
@@MelonMusk068 Yes a hot air station was used to remove the joysticks.However a good quality soldering iron and some good quality soldering braid can also achieve the same outcome.
It was satisfying to see sombody actually correctly fix the contoller. After watching tons of dweebs talking about stick drift lol and all i wanted to know was how to replace that orange bracket lol. Thank you!
Yes there are some lol. I try and keep my videos as realistic as possible and done with DIY tools (most times). I make the videos for teaching purpose so others can fix their device or expand their knowledge.
best video I"ve seen on this topic so far, thank you very much... I'm really struggling with desoldering without a solder sucker but u sir really helped me out and gave me good ideas , thanks :D
I have 4 genuine dualshock 4s and I swear they are the most difficult controller I've ever worked on regarding joystick replacement. The solder JUST. WON'T. MELT. I have a basic soldering iron which I have to heat up to around 400 degrees celsius just so it melts, but then the solder sucking thing won't suck it up, and the soldering wick will stick to the board if I use it. I once tried my hand with a hot air gun, always afraid of burning something out. Managed to get the sticks out, but solder remained in the holes AND the air blew away the flex cable connector along the battery connector. This video makes it look like a walk in the park.
I did it, thanks to your video! It took me like 1 hour to replace the joystick and another hour because it didn't work and I had to troubleshoot what I did wrong. I broke a plastic thing, which I had to replace. Plus I did one thing different. I didn't mark the Mainboard but the part I had to replace, this way the next time I open the controller there are no marks :)
I tried the use the flux and pump method, didn't end well, the solder went through the broadband on to the other side, even used a wick, it stuck on there good
Desoldering iron is the way to go, makes this process way easier and is only worth it if you have multiple controllers with analog stick issues. And of course have soldering iron. In total is about 60$ on amazon for both.
For people not understanding why tf it doesn't suck, you need to use 60% tin and 40% lead soldering tin, also remember to set the thing at the right temperature, if the temperature is too low the tin is gonna freeze before you can suck it, and if that's too hot it's gonna stick to the motherboard as if it was glued
Always add new solder to the joints to mix with the original onboard solder. It helps to low the melting temperature enough to have it extracted from the motherboard.
At 350ºC you can do the job rightfully. I personally use 350-400 degrees to melt the tin with soldering pen . And exactly 340-360-375 to SMD soldering. It all depends in the case too
There is not usually leaded solder on modern boards like this. You should use the same composition of solder as is on the board: lead-free, for a connection that lasts and to minimize risk of cold joints. Leaded solder is for vintage equipment and is not necessary with even cheap temp controlled irons, proper tips and technique If you have difficulty removing solder, use more flux and adjust your temperature and technique. Try solder braid or a heated solder sucker
I tried to desolder with a soldering iron and a soldering iron pump but the solder was not able to come out completely. I don't know what equipment to use to desolder.
Hello many thanks on step by step ,what are the material used to suck up shouldering on circuit board and cleaning as well I have to replace joysticks and want to make sure I use right stuff I have dismantled ,control down to circuit board so gonna order new joy sticks and materials many thanks Jim
Bro the video is a gamer asmr I love the way he fixes his controller like I’m gonna do all that I just continued watching because the way the tools made sounds
Luis Hernandez Good idea, but we have done that now about 5 or 6 times, and we are going to try to repair those little buggers that took a Snooze on Us !!! Who knows might be a good part time Hustle ...
do the potenciometers come already calibrated? i saw a tutorial and after the man replaced de joystick he started fiddling with the potenciometers until they were centered, as if he hadn´t bought them calibrated
How can I re apply the red and black wires onto the motherboard? Mine have been off from my second controller for a long time and wish to fix it myself
Definitely what I was looking for. Great job on the tutorial. I have a black ops 3 limited edition ps4. Has a matching controller that didnt want to get rid of. Let's hope this helps me save it.
@@AuzzAustin I ordered a new controller. Figured that why I can refurbish with all new parts. Thanks alot again the info will still come in hand down the road.
I gave it a go after replacing the white potentiometer by slightly prying but still let a tiny amount of drift where it wouldn’t return to dead centre. The analogue stick just wouldn’t come off after wicking as much solder I could with flux and an iron. Best option is to buy a new controller and sell broken one to someone who has a high end setup to repair and resell.
Hi just wondering what brand soldering iron and what hot air gun you use? Im looking to make a purchase for these items I have some cheaper items but they don't work well I'd like to be able to do this myself.
Things Happen I used a soldering iron with the soldering sucker and de soldering wire. I managed to remove almost all of the solder but it’s still stuck on :/
TacoMacho I think purchasing a heat gun, and adding solder joints to the relevant areas and using the heat gun would be the best option. I think it would be appropriate to purchase a heat gun that has different heat settings
Does anybody know why some people use a multimeter to check the joysticks for dead zones? I know nothing about electronics but I've seen some test if the replacement part is working as intended.
What are the whole tools and equipment do you need so I can try this because I have like 5 controllers and I want to try this myself. I'm not worried if I mess it up.
I got a TS100 under Louis Rossmann's recommendation. The unit says it goes up to 400C (w/ 24V 5A power supply). However I'm having difficulty getting the solder on the board to melt. It has no problem melting my lead-free solder though. Any ideas? I'm new to soldering :/
You might have a long and pointy tip on your iron which makes it harder to put the most head directly to the solder pad! Buy a chisel tip and that usually makes melting the board way faster and more ideal for this type of soldering
Recently had my 2 analog sticks replaced and soldered in. Now my controller shows orange when its plugged in indicating its charging i leave it plugged in for an hour or so and try to power it on soon as it connects to bluetooth on my phone it shuts off. Itll stay connected and powered on while its plugged in. Would you happen to know if the solder joints on the analogs are the culprit?
I do, but I have a whole collection and mod them to work dual voltage and RF to Scart. I break things then I fix them. But I still game alot since the 80's. TBH I just got into this a few years back as a side hobby to gaming.
Maybe your to young to remember pin ball machines and arcade's but there was a time when every gamer had soldering tools. Who buy's electronics and doesn't have soldering tools ? its like buying a car and not having a wrench set sure you could do it , but then your dependent on some one else , DIY is
@@Kit-lb6tr hey, i broke the door of the analog stick (green piece), would it be possible for me to solder the metal together instead of buying a complete analog stick? Thanks
@@Two_wheels_ninja it's hard to say without seeing the condition. The conforming plastic from what I understand is antistatic and foundational. The sticks are fairly cheap I got 2 from alibaba for about 3 bucks and replaced and it seems to work nicer then the standard one. But if you attempt your repair the worst you can do is make the stick not work. As long as you don't damage the main board and it's traces you can always replace later.
@@Kit-lb6tr thanks for the quick reply. Looking at the condition, there is just such a small gap to solder that I dont think i can unless you can heat metal and quickly attach it. I'm probably going to order some also. As well, do you have any recommendations for a soldering iron, idk whats bad or good as well as what I actually need in terms of electronics. Thanks man
Hi where do you buy your 3 pin analog sticks out repair parts? I will like to ty and fix my ps4 controller I got two faulty ones. I didn't see link on description.
Hi, question what was the white thing you used to punch the hole in the soldering, I am looking to get all the required equipment I need to fix my controllers. Thank you for the video!
Say I’ve already started this project and don’t have some material like the blower and the clamp but just about everything else. Could I still complete this task? If so how could I do it with a kit bought off Amazon?
PS4 controllers are the worst on the initial opening, feels like you're gonna rip it apart, and if you're not careful with the cable when you open it, you can.
How do i reinstall the Black And Blue Vibration Cables ? My only problem is when i open my controler they got unplug from bothsides where they where weld into ?
@@mcfriedchicken1972 yes i did. I put rosin core lead solder over it and then removed it and it worked for one I tried. I couldn’t do them all just one because I don’t have a circuit board to hold it up.
I was soldering on a beginner project and I thought that the burnt flux was my board burning! How long does it take for the heat of the iron to damage the pcb or small chips?
@@autronicsltd3478 I went with more flux and got close, but still ended ip having to jimmy the sticks too much on removal for my liking. Decided to order the Atten hot air, I'll report back when I've had another go. Will need to pick up some Al foil tape too.
@@bakedbeings Interesting...they do require steady heat n take a bit of time.Did you apply/add fresh solder to the joints before heating it with the hot air station?
@@autronicsltd3478 I don't have it yet, just ordered. My second try (described above) was just working with better flux, more time etc as you showed, to really see how well I could manage without a hot air station. Before ordering some new kit I try to make sure I'm not just impulse buying :)
Can you tell me what kind of heat gun you own? I really need one that I know will work. The soldering iron I own must be crap cus it just ain't cutting it
Do you reckon you could hold the new potentiometer under the board whilst heating and push it back in whilst the solder has flown? Don't have a solder remover figured it might be worth a shot.
I change them just like you and I open it today the analog still shaking up and down by self ,? Can anyone normal in the world tell me how the fuck just happened that I change I replace it at all and I open it today it still shaking how happen ???!?!?!🤒🤒🤒🤒
So I've followed every step and I have used the right tools but the solder in the joints won't melt off no matter how long I keep it under my heat gun or how much Flux I add
Remove the factory solder with a sucker/braid and replace it with standard leaded solder. Leaded solder has a much lower melting point. Additionally you can get something like chip quik removal alloy which has an EXTREMELY low melting point and will make removing components a breeze.
I've replaced my analog. But when I actuate L3, my player character spins instead of knifing (call of duty) I have the tools and diagnostic equipment but lack the knowledge. Please help?
I got a question , do you need the heat gun ? I'm trying to repair my controllers , But I got the soldering gun and I mean I would buy the soldering sucker to remove the iron Let's say just heating the iron one by one and taking it out with the soldering sucker it is possible ?
It's possible but it will take a lot of time and patience. If you buy a solder sucker, also buy some solder braid too because that's often easier to use
I replaced the right stick sensor on my controller everything works but the R3 button doesn't on the computer it shows R3 is being pressed without me pressing it and the stick itself is fine it is not stuck or anything. Is it a faulty sensor or I broke something?
I replaced analog sticks and now the speaker doesn’t work. When pushing R3 that doesn’t work but the stick itself works fine. L3 works both ways but when pressing it, it acts like I’m holding it for 2 seconds before it stops. What could be the issue?
Here is the question we have different controllers JDM 55 30 40 11 and 01 are they all the same or do I have to buy different kinds for these different controllers
So for the people saying that they would rather just buy another controller, I get that. But the reason why you would want to learn how to do this is because every single controller will eventually get problems with their joysticks down the line when you use them regularly. Yes there is some initial cost upfront for the soldering equipment but in the long run you'll be able to repair this issue when it crops up again for the cost of the replacement joystick module, which is like £5 for 2. Not to mention its a great little project to get you started with soldering.
Actually all toolkits with analogs cost less than 7 dollars and for the next time, only analog sticks will cost around $2. Imagine wasting $60 because you don't want to learn something useful. 20 min. of work for $55.
This is less expensive than a new controller.
@@WheeledHamster And more fun! Honestly, I'd have a great time doing this.
Honestly it's got me looking seriously at a hot air station, because it seems to reduce the friction of these sorts of repairs and mods (dc jacks, analogue sticks, making fight sticks ps5 compatible), and you can easily save AUD $70, $100, $300 (fight stick), $500 (laptop) at a time.
(Having desoldered and replaced 70ish keyboard switches more than once with pump and wick)
I thought this was a botched job until you cleaned it you learned this hobby well man , now its my turn to learn
I prefer using solder wicking ribbons to get the old solder off, little bit of flux on the ribbon and it wicks the solder up.
@@goti4no820 Yes, there are Rosen Core Solders and Acid Core Solders. It is not advisable to use acid-core solder on electronics. You also need to be careful not to mix traditional lead-based solder with most modern lead-free solders.
The European Union Waste Electrical and Electronic Equipment Directive and Restriction of Hazardous Substances Directive were adopted in early 2003 and came into effect on July 1, 2006, restricting the inclusion of lead in most consumer electronics sold in the EU, and having a broad effect on consumer electronics sold worldwide. Lead free solder has a higher melting point.
Im usually a do it myself kinda guy but think I’ll just leave it this time
Yeah you can find 3rd party wired controllers for 20 bucks. Seems like less effort :p
Its very easy to do just make sure you get a decent hot air gun for removal and a good solder iron for assembaly. Other than that very easy
U lazy bro
Lmaooo right
Effort is one thing, but to do this the first time - i'll first need to buy a thin smoldering iron, a hot air gun and a smolder sucker. New controller seems cheaper.
But it seems that analogs can be fixed by putting dielectric oil on the moving sensors inside the sides of the analog box - i wonder if that can be done without tearing it off...
Thanks to this video I just fixed a gen 1 dualshock 4 controller with a very basic soldering iron and the same solder sucker as you. Having a decent soldering iron, wick and adjustable clamps would have saved me more time. But it was worth it in the end, so I thank you.
Great work man
Did you use a heatgun? I don't have one, so how would I do this without it?
@@MelonMusk068 Yes a hot air station was used to remove the joysticks.However a good quality soldering iron and some good quality soldering braid can also achieve the same outcome.
It was satisfying to see sombody actually correctly fix the contoller. After watching tons of dweebs talking about stick drift lol and all i wanted to know was how to replace that orange bracket lol. Thank you!
Yes there are some lol. I try and keep my videos as realistic as possible and done with DIY tools (most times). I make the videos for teaching purpose so others can fix their device or expand their knowledge.
Thank you!! Just got done fixing my controller. Works perfect! Did this for $1.52 😂
where did you order your joystick from?
@@amenmondo1432 Did you find a cheap place he orded his joysticks from?
Where did you get your soldering iron, heat gun, and flux from as well
where did you get the time for this i just threw it in the garage and stuck to my pc@@kyleberube469
Where did you get the new anologs from to buy....?
best video I"ve seen on this topic so far, thank you very much... I'm really struggling with desoldering without a solder sucker but u sir really helped me out and gave me good ideas , thanks :D
It worked bro thanks. Pieced together a perfectly good working controller. After a couple of them stopped working. Nice.
Did you use a hot air gun or a soldering iron? I ask because i tried a soldering iron on a JDM001 model and the solder won't melt.
Things Happen ya same I used the iron and it had a hard time melting and I don’t have a heat gun
@@thingshappen9199 you have to use both, solder is to put it back together and hot air is to take apart. 1 year later
I have 4 genuine dualshock 4s and I swear they are the most difficult controller I've ever worked on regarding joystick replacement. The solder JUST. WON'T. MELT. I have a basic soldering iron which I have to heat up to around 400 degrees celsius just so it melts, but then the solder sucking thing won't suck it up, and the soldering wick will stick to the board if I use it. I once tried my hand with a hot air gun, always afraid of burning something out. Managed to get the sticks out, but solder remained in the holes AND the air blew away the flex cable connector along the battery connector. This video makes it look like a walk in the park.
I did it, thanks to your video!
It took me like 1 hour to replace the joystick and another hour because it didn't work and I had to troubleshoot what I did wrong. I broke a plastic thing, which I had to replace.
Plus I did one thing different. I didn't mark the Mainboard but the part I had to replace, this way the next time I open the controller there are no marks :)
Can i get a complete list of tools used please in the description? Please
Thank you, you've inspired me to get into this. I'm going to start on 360 controllers.
Boss may i know whats the green thing you use to hold the controller board
PCB holder
What a chill guy, good video.
6:38 🐜
LOLL
Everyone has bugs in their house. Idk why this is hilarious.
I tried the use the flux and pump method, didn't end well, the solder went through the broadband on to the other side, even used a wick, it stuck on there good
Desoldering iron is the way to go, makes this process way easier and is only worth it if you have multiple controllers with analog stick issues. And of course have soldering iron. In total is about 60$ on amazon for both.
I’ve got like 6 controllers that all have left stick issues. I think I found my next project. Thanks for the vid
Glad I could help. All the best with them
Is the Stick centered correctly tho??? When i do, the stick is not perfectly at the center
Awesome tutorial thank you very much got my controller working for .99 cents plus shipping
Where’d you get the sticks from
For people not understanding why tf it doesn't suck, you need to use 60% tin and 40% lead soldering tin, also remember to set the thing at the right temperature, if the temperature is too low the tin is gonna freeze before you can suck it, and if that's too hot it's gonna stick to the motherboard as if it was glued
Always add new solder to the joints to mix with the original onboard solder. It helps to low the melting temperature enough to have it extracted from the motherboard.
At 350ºC you can do the job rightfully. I personally use 350-400 degrees to melt the tin with soldering pen . And exactly 340-360-375 to SMD soldering. It all depends in the case too
There is not usually leaded solder on modern boards like this. You should use the same composition of solder as is on the board: lead-free, for a connection that lasts and to minimize risk of cold joints. Leaded solder is for vintage equipment and is not necessary with even cheap temp controlled irons, proper tips and technique
If you have difficulty removing solder, use more flux and adjust your temperature and technique. Try solder braid or a heated solder sucker
Hello, I was wondering if you really need to use the heat gun? What if I just use the soldering iron to remove the analog?
Yeah you probably could but it may cause problems as burning the motherboard. I haven't tried this yet so I will update this comment soon
@@rylloima1544 update?
really helpful video. I wish you showed testing though
I tried to desolder with a soldering iron and a soldering iron pump but the solder was not able to come out completely. I don't know what equipment to use to desolder.
Hello many thanks on step by step ,what are the material used to suck up shouldering on circuit board and cleaning as well I have to replace joysticks and want to make sure I use right stuff I have dismantled ,control down to circuit board so gonna order new joy sticks and materials many thanks Jim
I just clean three controller analog stick. Saved me money. Now removing the analog is something different. I'm willing to try with the right tools
Bro the video is a gamer asmr I love the way he fixes his controller like I’m gonna do all that I just continued watching because the way the tools made sounds
I thought am the only one.. apparently not it’s really relaxing when he’s releasing the analog with that solder sucker
On 2:50 what do you do at the red and black wires? And when assembling the controller back what do you do to the wires?
i have a question about the solder wire diameter... can I also use a 0.8mm thick wire or do i absolutely have to get one that is 0.5 - 0.6mm
Damn I'll just buy a new controller
fr
Yea me too
Luis Hernandez
Good idea, but we have done that now about 5 or 6 times, and we are going to try to repair those little buggers that took a Snooze on Us !!!
Who knows might be a good part time Hustle ...
😂😂😂
@@lonewolf1574 5 is a bit generous, dont you think?
awesome guide man ! thank you so much !
I made the repair following your guide on the first try!
Quite hard form me. I melted the plastic and shit
Could you not use one of those solder sucker if you got it hot enough to remove the old solder first?
I have a couple of pad that need repair and found your video very helpful cheers
I recommend preheating the whole board evenly before applying heat directly to the pads, as you can break your board.
What's the right temperature for preheating and for how long ?
@@goodintentions5189 around 80c
Can you use a port from a salvage controler?
for reconnecting the ribbon cable for the charging port i just folow my rule of blue side = fat side and line side = line side
Tbh your video is the best out of the 'fix' videos.
do the potenciometers come already calibrated? i saw a tutorial and after the man replaced de joystick he started fiddling with the potenciometers until they were centered, as if he hadn´t bought them calibrated
How can I re apply the red and black wires onto the motherboard? Mine have been off from my second controller for a long time and wish to fix it myself
Solder it on
@@Mr2dkid do you need the wires for the controlller to be on pls reply as soon as posible
What do you mean be on?
Robbo they got ripped off the motherboard on both sides so they aren’t attached and controller doesn’t switch on
@@TheViperAkz when my cords got ripped off the mother board it still worked
hey what do you use to clean that burn marks you made using soldering
Cna u fix the joystick if it ain't registering when u click it on time everytime?
Definitely what I was looking for. Great job on the tutorial. I have a black ops 3 limited edition ps4. Has a matching controller that didnt want to get rid of. Let's hope this helps me save it.
You Can Just Switch The Shells On Another Controller.
@@AuzzAustin I ordered a new controller. Figured that why I can refurbish with all new parts. Thanks alot again the info will still come in hand down the road.
My dad showed me how to use the soldering iron and I’ll be repairing controllers like a pro in no time 😎
Plus I got a 100 dollar loan to setup
I gave it a go after replacing the white potentiometer by slightly prying but still let a tiny amount of drift where it wouldn’t return to dead centre. The analogue stick just wouldn’t come off after wicking as much solder I could with flux and an iron.
Best option is to buy a new controller and sell broken one to someone who has a high end setup to repair and resell.
Hi just wondering what brand soldering iron and what hot air gun you use? Im looking to make a purchase for these items I have some cheaper items but they don't work well I'd like to be able to do this myself.
Can anybody tell me what kind of equipment i all need
Lol tried this and...... well i melted everything with the heat gun 🤣
What? Well, i tried doing it with a soldering iron and it impossible so i was thinking about getting a hot air gun.
Things Happen I used a soldering iron with the soldering sucker and de soldering wire. I managed to remove almost all of the solder but it’s still stuck on :/
@@dash-5325 have you figured it out?
TacoMacho I think purchasing a heat gun, and adding solder joints to the relevant areas and using the heat gun would be the best option. I think it would be appropriate to purchase a heat gun that has different heat settings
@@dash-5325 do you need a heat gun? Or can you do it just with the soldering gun and the soldering sucker ?
As if we're all gonna happen to have a soldering iron. Is there anyway to do this without soldering?
Will the controller work if I don’t fix back the vibrators ? I’m taking about the 2 circle wen u 1st open the back
About ps3 analog controller desolder with heat gun... Is heat 370 c to 400 c or up...
my parts for my controller and coming soon so I will be using this guide to help me with the joysticks, Thanks in advance
The cables of the vibrating motors, you just solder them again with no special process?
Same question
yup, just solder back in normally
Does anybody know why some people use a multimeter to check the joysticks for dead zones? I know nothing about electronics but I've seen some test if the replacement part is working as intended.
I managed to put a new piece in just like you did. But now it doesn’t work at all. Could it be that I damaged something?
What are the whole tools and equipment do you need so I can try this because I have like 5 controllers and I want to try this myself. I'm not worried if I mess it up.
Really helpful thankyou, not as difficult as I thought 😊
You’re welcome 😊, requires alotv patience
I got a TS100 under Louis Rossmann's recommendation. The unit says it goes up to 400C (w/ 24V 5A power supply). However I'm having difficulty getting the solder on the board to melt. It has no problem melting my lead-free solder though. Any ideas? I'm new to soldering :/
You might have a long and pointy tip on your iron which makes it harder to put the most head directly to the solder pad! Buy a chisel tip and that usually makes melting the board way faster and more ideal for this type of soldering
Recently had my 2 analog sticks replaced and soldered in. Now my controller shows orange when its plugged in indicating its charging i leave it plugged in for an hour or so and try to power it on soon as it connects to bluetooth on my phone it shuts off. Itll stay connected and powered on while its plugged in. Would you happen to know if the solder joints on the analogs are the culprit?
So clean and so professional
A nice friendly ant came to visit you at 6:30... Then he said "I'm outta here!" LOL. Good informative video though. Thumbs up man. Good job.
Thanks for watching!
Great video! I would have used the soldier sucker right from the beginning to remove the old stick
After we solder on a new stick. Do we need to calibrate them or are they just good to go right after being soldered?
What normal gamer is gonna have soldering tools 😂
Unless I get ratio’d my point still stands
I do, but I have a whole collection and mod them to work dual voltage and RF to Scart. I break things then I fix them. But I still game alot since the 80's. TBH I just got into this a few years back as a side hobby to gaming.
Maybe your to young to remember pin ball machines and arcade's but there was a time when every gamer had soldering tools. Who buy's electronics and doesn't have soldering tools ? its like buying a car and not having a wrench set sure you could do it , but then your dependent on some one else , DIY is
@@Kit-lb6tr hey, i broke the door of the analog stick (green piece), would it be possible for me to solder the metal together instead of buying a complete analog stick? Thanks
@@Two_wheels_ninja it's hard to say without seeing the condition. The conforming plastic from what I understand is antistatic and foundational. The sticks are fairly cheap I got 2 from alibaba for about 3 bucks and replaced and it seems to work nicer then the standard one.
But if you attempt your repair the worst you can do is make the stick not work. As long as you don't damage the main board and it's traces you can always replace later.
@@Kit-lb6tr thanks for the quick reply. Looking at the condition, there is just such a small gap to solder that I dont think i can unless you can heat metal and quickly attach it. I'm probably going to order some also. As well, do you have any recommendations for a soldering iron, idk whats bad or good as well as what I actually need in terms of electronics. Thanks man
Sir shall you please tell the name of those solidering components
Hi where do you buy your 3 pin analog sticks out repair parts? I will like to ty and fix my ps4 controller I got two faulty ones. I didn't see link on description.
Hope you still need it after 4 years
Hi, question what was the white thing you used to punch the hole in the soldering, I am looking to get all the required equipment I need to fix my controllers. Thank you for the video!
White thing?? which part of the video
Say I’ve already started this project and don’t have some material like the blower and the clamp but just about everything else. Could I still complete this task? If so how could I do it with a kit bought off Amazon?
I was wondering that if I could take the joystick sensor off from another controller and place in my other controller?
Yes off course, it will work given that the removed one is in working condition
Thanks! Was trying to figure out how to open the shell without damaging anything and I successfully replaced the analog stick caps (:
PS4 controllers are the worst on the initial opening, feels like you're gonna rip it apart, and if you're not careful with the cable when you open it, you can.
When you said to set the temp to 420, did you mean celsius or fahrenheit?
During desoldering could you also just heat up the individual soldered legs with your soldering iron? As opposed to using a torch.
BcuzIGotHigh420 yes you can
@@aronorenda how can you use just the iron? I've tried before but my joints always have a little bit of solder left that won't melt
@@shadowVVizardMon3yGang for desoldering?
How do i reinstall the Black And Blue Vibration Cables ? My only problem is when i open my controler they got unplug from bothsides where they where weld into ?
The vacuum demo was very helpful
I took mine apart and i pulld to hard on the strip for the light i think the strip wit the blue on the end i broke that conection
anyone know what kinda gun he used? None of the guns I have seem to melt the solder
Same!! Did you get it?
@@mcfriedchicken1972 yes i did. I put rosin core lead solder over it and then removed it and it worked for one I tried. I couldn’t do them all just one because I don’t have a circuit board to hold it up.
I did spray a little oil inside the analog stick ..beside of it directly .
Now it works again both sides very good 👍🏻 thank you
You do not understand how much that helped me
What joystick replacement did you purchase? I can't find any that allow r3/l3 while fully forward or backward.
Feysin ebay
I've got ALPS and it worked well, one did work for 8 months (playing 4 hours per day) and the new one worked only 30 days! I don't know why!
What about the little grey stick can you replace it with out removing anything major
Grey stick? are you referring to the stick inside the joystick itself
I was soldering on a beginner project and I thought that the burnt flux was my board burning! How long does it take for the heat of the iron to damage the pcb or small chips?
Great video! Can you tell me, which flux and solder wire did you use for this repair? I have some here but I have no idea of the specification of it.
Those corner posts are a beast to desolder with wick and sucker, they eat up so much heat.
Yes they require constant heat. Use ample amount of flux, it will help the solder flow better.
@@autronicsltd3478 Thanks for the help 🙏
@@autronicsltd3478 I went with more flux and got close, but still ended ip having to jimmy the sticks too much on removal for my liking. Decided to order the Atten hot air, I'll report back when I've had another go. Will need to pick up some Al foil tape too.
@@bakedbeings Interesting...they do require steady heat n take a bit of time.Did you apply/add fresh solder to the joints before heating it with the hot air station?
@@autronicsltd3478 I don't have it yet, just ordered. My second try (described above) was just working with better flux, more time etc as you showed, to really see how well I could manage without a hot air station. Before ordering some new kit I try to make sure I'm not just impulse buying :)
hey quick question , can i remove the entire thing without hot air gun ???
Can you tell me what kind of heat gun you own? I really need one that I know will work. The soldering iron I own must be crap cus it just ain't cutting it
www.aliexpress.com/item/32963193097.html
Do you reckon you could hold the new potentiometer under the board whilst heating and push it back in whilst the solder has flown? Don't have a solder remover figured it might be worth a shot.
yes, you can do this
What temperature do i put the soldering gun
You should show a testing of the controller
Edgar wait how lol didn’t he just fix if
@@Zyanaster a lot of times the new analog sensor doesn't work as the original one
I change them just like you and I open it today the analog still shaking up and down by self ,? Can anyone normal in the world tell me how the fuck just happened that I change I replace it at all and I open it today it still shaking how happen ???!?!?!🤒🤒🤒🤒
I know it was 4 years ago but what type of heat gun did you use ? . Cheers
bruh i really took my whole controller apart until i seen the soldering...
You don’t have to do that just take the motherboard of the base
Im trying to replace my right joystick so i need a soldering iron
Does the replacememt have to be the same colour the ones i received are a bcrownish colour.
Nope, but within the same spec as the old one. Colour has nothing to do with functionality
How did u put the black and red cable back in
So I've followed every step and I have used the right tools but the solder in the joints won't melt off no matter how long I keep it under my heat gun or how much Flux I add
Remove the factory solder with a sucker/braid and replace it with standard leaded solder. Leaded solder has a much lower melting point. Additionally you can get something like chip quik removal alloy which has an EXTREMELY low melting point and will make removing components a breeze.
I've replaced my analog.
But when I actuate L3, my player character spins instead of knifing (call of duty) I have the tools and diagnostic equipment but lack the knowledge. Please help?
ima just get thumbsticks i heard that there really good but they should only be like 20 bucks
Legend! Pads working great again :)
I got a question , do you need the heat gun ? I'm trying to repair my controllers , But I got the soldering gun and I mean I would buy the soldering sucker to remove the iron Let's say just heating the iron one by one and taking it out with the soldering sucker it is possible ?
It's possible but it will take a lot of time and patience. If you buy a solder sucker, also buy some solder braid too because that's often easier to use
I replaced the right stick sensor on my controller everything works but the R3 button doesn't on the computer it shows R3 is being pressed without me pressing it and the stick itself is fine it is not stuck or anything. Is it a faulty sensor or I broke something?
Hey so I fixed the joy stick except the l3 button doesn't work how can I fix that?
I replaced analog sticks and now the speaker doesn’t work. When pushing R3 that doesn’t work but the stick itself works fine. L3 works both ways but when pressing it, it acts like I’m holding it for 2 seconds before it stops. What could be the issue?
Probably Just the Flex PCB. Replace It it's like 5 dollar.. be careful the graphite conductive is pretty delicate
@@TheMasterizzatore alright thanks
Here is the question we have different controllers JDM 55 30 40 11 and 01 are they all the same or do I have to buy different kinds for these different controllers