383 Stroker Rotating Assembly
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 27 ส.ค. 2024
- This is (Episode 24) of the #ETCGDadsTruck Series.
Link to (Episode 25): • 383 Stroker Top End As...
Link to (Episode 23): • Machine Shop Summary #...
This installment of #ETCGDadsTruck covers the assembly of the rotating assembly of the engine, #DT383. The rotating assembly consists of the crankshaft, connecting rods, pistons, cam shaft, and timing chain.
Camera: Brian Kast, Eric Cook
My Patreon Account: / ericthecarguy
The best place for answers to your automotive questions: www.ericthecarg...
Check out the ETCG Blog for the latest info: www.ericthecar...
Summit Racing: www.summitraci...
Thanks for watching!
Parts
Crankshaft: www.summitraci...
Rods: www.summitraci...
Pistons: www.summitraci...
Piston Rings: www.summitraci...
Rod Bearings: www.summitraci...
Main Bearings: www.summitraci...
Main Studs: www.summitraci...
Cam: www.compcams.com Custom Grind: 12-000-8
Timing Chain Set: www.compperform...
Cam Button: www.compperform...
Tools
Crankshaft Socket (SBC): www.summitraci...
Cam Installation Tool: www.summitraci...
Piston Ring Filer: www.summitraci...
Piston Ring Squaring Tool (4.000-4.230): www.summitraci...
Piston Ring Compressor (4.030)(Summit): www.summitraci...
Piston Ring Compressor (4.030)(Moroso): www.jegs.com/i...
Torque Wrench: www.jbtools.co...
Plastigauge: www.summitraci...
Paint Pen: www.amazon.com...
CAT Plug Kit: parts.cat.com/...
“Piston” Hammer: trustycook.com...
Gasket Tack: www.amazon.com...
WD40: www.amazon.com...
Related Videos
383 Stroker Engine Parts #ETCGDadsTruck: • 383 Stroker Engine Par...
Engine Assembly Crankshaft and Pistons #DarkMatterPikachu: • Engine Assembly Cranks...
How To Assemble Pistons and Rings: • How To Assemble Piston...
How To Gap Piston Rings: • How To Properly Gap Pi...
How To Mask and Paint an Engine Block: • How To Mask & Paint an...
How To Use Plastigauge: • How To Use Plastigage ...
#ETCGDadsTruck Playlist: • #ETCGDadsTruck Build I...
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Due to factors beyond the control of EricTheCarGuy, it cannot guarantee against unauthorized modifications of this information, or improper use of this information. EricTheCarGuy assumes no liability for property damage or injury incurred as a result of any of the information contained in this video. EricTheCarGuy recommends safe practices when working with power tools, automotive lifts, lifting tools, jack stands, electrical equipment, blunt instruments, chemicals, lubricants, or any other tools or equipment seen or implied in this video. Due to factors beyond the control of EricTheCarGuy, no information contained in this video shall create any express or implied warranty or guarantee of any particular result. Any injury, damage or loss that may result from improper use of these tools, equipment, or the information contained in this video is the sole responsibility of the user and not EricTheCarGuy®.
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A butt-load of time and effort went into making this video. THANK YOU! Glad I'm not the only one who enjoys watching a detailed engine build.
I'm not even close to being a builder but I helped a friend of mine once who ran a machine shop and was OCD about cleanliness. We took a block from the hot tank to a power washer, then hit it with a brush, hose, soap bucket and back to the power washer again and again. We went back and forth like that probably 3-4 times before he was satisfied. No BS when I say it was clean enough to eat off of.
If he stepped away during assembly to use the head, make a call or eat lunch, he would slip a lawn&leaf bag over it. And don't even think about touching the crank, rods, bearings or cylinder walls without wearing rubber gloves. He believed that oil and sweat from bare skin would lead to corrosion where contact was made. He was a fanatic and apparently a damn good builder.
I was at a guy's house several years ago while he and a couple of his friends were assembling a new bottom end (BBC) for his street race car. During the assembly, a moth flew into the garage. They all basically panicked and frantically covered the engine with plastic until the moth was taken care of. I thought it was slightly overboard...lol
If the machine shop you used tells you it's "common" to find dirt in your engine after they're done with it then it's time to find a new machine shop!
I also find it kinda concerning that there is (still) pitting on the top of the block at least one for the sides.
I kinda feel bad for the machine shop but they messed up so many things on this block alone...
quite agree , should have done the job properly , or find someone else
What he ment was, no matter how many times you clean it, there will always be something that slips into it again. it`s very common to clean it again after the machine shop. You my friend are a noob.
@@tommyaleks100 well aren't you a treat
@@tommyaleks100 why wouldn't the open ports / holes be covered after cleaning? That makes sense to me....
I am GIDDY for this. Love that it’s 55min, can’t wait to sit back and enjoy later tonight. Friday’s looking up!
I thought your dad's truck was a SS 454 my bad
Your camera person is doing a great job. Sound is great too.
Thanks for not adding music or having annoying background noise.
Great video!
I didn’t see you for about 4 or 5 years, you have a nice garage Eric and I learned a lot from you. Thank you for the video, greetings from Algeria.
few tips- put the camshaft in before the crank and it's easy to hold and guide in. always clean the block, crank, etc before paint and assembly. run a brush through oil passages. clean out all plastigage.
Naa. You're no fun. Taking all the surprise out of engine building.
I love the sounds of putting the engine together. The metal hitting metal on all the fasteners and when he’s hammering the pistons in. The further down they go the higher the pitch gets. I’m very sensitive to sounds and get anxious and annoyed easily but these sounds are very relaxing.
I'm not an expert but I read the instructions... that's all you need. I had to add good audio.. I can hear every little bearing popping into place metal-on-metal contact sounds great...very satisfying
Slow process to build a personal engine! Every detail that makes you sleep at night is accepted in the hobby! Hobby is what i call it as that is what it is for us perfectionists! In the end of every build its your dollar so spend it as you see fit! I enjoy final assembly of any project and am critisized by everyone around that i am way too anal about the small details! In the end most of my builds from 1000 Hp to 50 Hp pitbikes hold up and last through the punishment of those that critisized me! I get the most thrill knowing that the small details are what make build hold up !!!!!
FINALLY a guy who says ENGINE !!...instead of " motor " now THATS professional !
32:52 - "The bigger it is, the smaller the clearance. The smaller it is, the LESS(?) the clearance."
....Eric talks a lot and makes the occasional faux pas. In case it wasn't clear, crushing the little pasta stick makes it thinner and wider. It the gap is larger, it doesn't crush as much and results in a thicker and less-wide 'splat'.
Awesome video, Eric. I agree with those who call this an hour of CAR PORN!
Eric, your videos are so good, I cant compliment you enough. Last night, I watched a video you made 4 years ago on change brake calipers and today I am watching this video - 1 week old - on assemblying your engine. Such a great channel.
if the cylinder bores have not been bored but just honed. check ring end clearance at the BOTTOM of the ring travel in case there is a slight taper in the cylinder they will fit tightest at the bottom. very good point you are making about the importance of getting enough ring end gap.
It was bored over
@@ExtraFungus always a dumb ass who can not read but has to comment. my statement was for cylinder bores that were no bored. not these. doing the ring end check the correct way is a good habit to develop. you normally push them to the bottom of their travel with a piston. if one does the job that way it will always work correctly in any cylinder. thanks for nothing dumb ass.
I'm not an engine builder. But 20 extra ft pounds on the rod caps alter your clearance numbers.
Exactly, but likely not enough to matter in this application .
I dont think it would be that big of a problem. If you take note of the ARP paper it says with their lube. Their lube reduces the force thus youd reach torque easier so they raise the torque value higher so once torqued at the higher setting it would be equal to if you torqued it to spec without the lube on the threads and washer heads.
I was confused on the bearings at first then you showed the upper went into the block. Thanks and stay clean lol.
Suscribed at 4AM because I spent 4 hrs watching '69 Camaro SS vids since midnight. Love Chevy ! 😼🇺🇸🔧
Glad to see that you measured ring gaps in their respective cylinder bores. In a precision engine build each piston is miked and each bore is honed to achieve the desired clearance.
Assembling an engine has never been this satisfying..
To be totally ocd about the ring install I would install the loose rings in the rear of the engine or furthest from the water pump.
May be should put it in yhe middle ,so the compression balance better?
I’ve learned more from this video than I have in school
you should always use a ring expander, it prevents getting any scratches on the piston. Also, I try to spread the gaps away from 6 and 12 o'clock--those areas have the most thrust on the piston to cylinder wall... i keep them closer to the pins.
Honestly, this series is right up there at the top of stuff I watch in my subscription feed.
I like that you did the assembly and you showed some of the minor issues from the machine shop. I'm familiar with what a 383 is, I've never seen details or the modifications needed to make it work. I don't think I'll ever have a sbc car again because LS engines are a thing, but if I was going to do one, I think I'd go this way.
A light car with a built 302/327sbc is a monster. Can be happy in the 7000rpm range for somewhat cheap, 283/302sbc can see 9000 rpm and be happy if it's built correctly, and not be as pricy as one might think.
@@talonvaughn6175 the price goes up day by day and parts availability just goes down. Ls is the way to go.
I’ve been waiting to see the motor put back together. It looks soooo good Eric! One day I want to do all this stuff to my c1500. Thanks for taking the time to put out all this awesome info on these trucks!
I could watch this forever. Great video!
That’s the way to do it. Check all your tolerances before fully installing bearings rings and piston slap. I like to use motor oil to assemble most of it. Good oil flow is important to break in. It’s good to prime the system with oil also. Makes for a happy engine and less potential for spinning a bearing or damaging any moving part inside the engine. I like to change break in oil at close to 1,000 miles. Gets all the contaminants out. Makes for clean smooth running engine.
Round the outside, round tye outside😂😂😂
This is by far the best how you video ice ever seen ill he using it when i assemble my 383, thank you so much! Subscribing
I'll definitely be watching this while I assemble my 383 for my 81 Z28 Camaro. Awesome video!
Hey Eric, I have rebuilt my Honda car engine, my Pontiac car engine, and my bike engines. I am not an engine builder either, so I can relate to the anxiety when checking clearances, and you happen upon the unnerving end of the measurement spectrum. Your a great mechanic, and your careful, don’t second guess your instincts!
If it’s in spec, ITS IN SPEC !!!! Great job ! Fun build !
Thanks so much for this project! Your videos have helped my family fix so much more than we would have otherwise.
LOL, I love the Eminem reference on the rear main seal
... Great video Eric !!... i especially liked the 'masking tape catch' of machine shop dirt @ the onset ( i'll bet that is the reason... including myself.. why we've been guilty of 'dirty engine' assembly & failure ; ) See ya on the next one, so stay safe & healthy... & Thanks Again.
I love these kind of work Eric. Great work! As a car/ engine mechanic I would say he did a great job with it so far. The only thing I would do in this matter is that I would flushed it one more time before asembly, but`s that`s me. On other thing I will like to mention is that, you did correct to not wear glows on this job. I have seen it before and it`s not always smart to do. The clarence of the bearings are in specs so not to worry there. I have read some of the comments and I must say, they rely need to go to school or do lot`s of reading. Nothing wrong at all with this job, Eric is very carefully with what he does so no worries there ether. This engine will run smooth as a kitten. Keep it up Eric :)
clean, clean, and more clean!!!
Putting the cam in first makes installing it way easier and less risk of gouging a bearing. With the rotating assembly out you can reach right in the cam journal and guide it along from both ends.
That why some people like fit the engine stand to the side.
@@alanw5812 engine stand placement makes zero difference.
@@LSswapGarage1 I mean is put the camshaft up down, better than sideway.
@@alanw5812 still better with the crank out. Especially with cams a lot larger than the cam buddy used in this video.
@@LSswapGarage1 ? Don't understand
Love the sound of an empty shop and building horsepower!!!
I used to run a CNC mill making port blocks - the rule was to ALWAYS blow it out. Great job !!!
for future reference, its good practice to never lay camshafts and crankshafts on their sides. its less important with camshafts but crankshafts should always be sat upright when not in the engine to prevent warping
So How do you think they are stored when they are in the werehouse or under shipping?
@@axtra92 when I got a oem crank sent to me, it was sent laying down in a mdf box. It has polystyrene support on where the main bearings were, so it was supported as if it was in a motor.
Yeah humidity can warp a crank like a piece of pine lol lol lol.
Never been proven, even though it’s probably just a wives tale I do try to store mine upright and even at that they would have weight stress whether upright or hanging.
Love the numbers and arrows on the pistons.
Really REALLY good guide! I will probably never assemble an engine but I really appreciate the knowledge you have provided!
Thank you for the amazing video.... my therapy!
The comedian, Bill Burr, mentioned your channel when he was on Joe Rogan’s Podcast. He really liked watching you. Joe Rogan said he watched your channel, also. As a fellow Buckeye, I live in Springfield, it’s nice to get national exposure!
سلام وهزاران 👍 .....جناب مهندس اریک عزیز بسیار تشکر دارم ...وهمواره بهترین ها را برایتان از خدای مهربان ارزومندم....👍....
You squeeze the ring with your left hand and crank with your right hand; you grind both end gap faces at the same time, this way if the grinder wheel is true, the end gaps stay parallel. As for checking end gap, square up the ring in the block and put the best fitting feeler gauge in and pull the gauge and if the gauge has drag and comes out without disturbing the ring ends that's the size; if the ends get tugged away it's the size less.
Well done dude,pops old beast will be on the street soon
Great video Eric
I made my own Cam installation tool out of a 1.5" od x 10" length rod of aluminum with an all thread bolt threaded in to it . It really works beautifully and it only cost me about 1/2 hour of my time.
I love how quite it is in your shop. Just crank away
yeah this is the part I was looking for
Love seeing how far you've come! Remember you in a crappy little cinder block garage working on your yuck mobile
Thank you 🙏 Sr. I have a 88 GMC 350 5.7L I’m bout to do same things you do this video will help me a lot. Thank you for the video Sr
Only small blocks up to 1958 had rope rear main seals, in '59 Chevy was the first GM engine to go to a 2 piece neoprene type seal - then the one piece design was introduced in '86.
I know this is an old video but I'm just now seeing it, anyways, not sure your machine shop did it but I always run a tap through every bolt hole to clean up the threads.. then blow them all out with compressed air... great video sir... you just gained another subscriber 🎉🎉😊😊
When you're measuring main bearing clearances, you really should bolt the oil pump on. The torque on the bolt that attaches it to the rear main cap can and will effect the clearance.
Probably not a huge deal here since I'm sure the guys at the machine shop already checked it like that, but its something worth knowing.
WD 40 is so expensive in Brazil that now I only use it as a perfume to go out with some girls.
It's not even that good a lubricant.
@@aliabdallah102 but probably over there it's enough
@@nazigrammar9728 Brazilian Girls have more blow-by
Try using diesel fuel with a little engine oil added to it for a spray-able lubricant
Now that's 2020, I use hand sanitizer.
Cam specs are very close to the Crane roller cam I picked up for my 306 build for my truck.
216*/224* @ 0.050, 112* LSA, 107* ICL, 0.520"/0.542" lift.
Picked it out for its high lift for the AFR Renegade 165 heads I bought and because it was more fitting for a daily street truck with a C6 transmission with a goal of 3.00:1 to 3.25:1 ring and pinion swap to offset my 31x10.50-15 KO2 tires.
when the ring says top that does not necessarily mean it's the top ring it means that side goes up also the WD40 on the rings and skirts is so you do not glaze your cylinder walls at start up this coating of oil will glaze them your Ring gap of .018 is perfectly fine for a 4.030 bore you really should not roll compression rings on every ring manufacturer uses ring plyers and recommend always using them good video
Thanks Eric
you can use rubber hose gas line hose on the Bolt you need to put something on the bolts so when you put the Pistons in you do not score of the crankshaft this is very important it is easy 2 scar a crankshaft by not using bolt covers I've always juice pieces of gas line hose works really good they make rubber boots especially made for Motors I used to work at an engine rebuilding shop I've been a mechanic all my life
I believe Comp cams that start with 12 are retrofit hydraulic rollers. Intended to be used in a block that does not have bosses and tapped holes for a cam retainer plate. No thrust button would be needed with a step nosed cam (start with 08- I believe). There are 2 sizes based on spacing for the cam retainer plate in blocks that were factory hydraulic roller.
Great job Eric.
ive come to realize that if the thrust bearing on a small block chevy can hold up to a 72in propeller bolted to the crankshaft pushing close to 1000lbs of thrust that it is pretty impressive lol. even if they do not hold up for 10 years most get 5+ years depends on app.
Now that's a beautiful thing right there! 😎
Tempted to junk the crap 5.3 in my '07 Silverado and install one of those. At least I know the 383 will do what it's supposed to reliably!
Smitty Smithsonite
I catch a lot of hell from people because I’m not a fan of the LS series. I’m more of a SBC guy. 50 years of performance is proven.
@@chrisj197438 - I hear that, brother. 🍻
Great info... gonna start my 383 build soon.. I like old school power.. thanx Eric.. nice build.. like the foxbody in the background..
I used to own / operate an engine building machine shop. We used to pressure wash the blocks and heads before we put them into the hot tank cleaner to get the worst of the gunk and rust flakes out if the water jackets.
After agitating in the hot tank, and pressure washing, when they came out, we used to put the heads and blocks on top of the hot tank to let the water evaporate out of the water jackets and oil galleries before starting to machine.
After all that cleaning, and pressure washing, you'd be surprised by how much little rust particles and flakes will still come out of the water jackets. Best tip is to clean everything can when you get your engine parts back from the machine shop. Then clean it again. As long as all that grit stays out of the lube oil side, you can flush the engine with fresh water when you get it running, then when you're sure everything is clean, put in two gallons of antifreeze (concentrated) top it off with water, and you should be good to -25 degrees.
Awesome, thanks for that insight.
Loved this, been waiting for this! Thanks Eric!
Clevite/Michigan 77's are my choice...Long time since a build like this...but Clevite 77 was always my choice in any engine...GREAT CALL!!!
Good thorough video
Not gonna lie, the beeping of the torque wrench is oddly satisfying.
I prefer the old school click sound on them myself.
"Black is the new orange"--- Well done sir
Eric,cool video. You are just like me I love unpacking new fools. Yes there are other ways to do the job but he’ll life is short and I love my tools. Have a good one friend looking forward to the rest of the build Artie 👍👍👍
I use an air gun to torque it, set the air pressure to 30 on the first round and adjust the air after each round until it goes to specs... fast and easy and always works great.
😉
When inserting the pistons & rods, it's better to push all in one move instead of hammering it. Turn the crank to the lowest position as far away from the cylinder bottom and put one hand at the bottom of the cylinder to grab the rod--- you push all in one motion instead of hammering it. you only need to push about 2 inches to get all the rings compressed & into the cylinder. Hammering can get an oil ring rail stuck or broke between the ring compressor & the top of the block.
Great video Eric! Glad to see you're back in full swing.
Once you go black... An excellent episode, really enjoy watching this series.
Great video Eric .
Nice work Eric always good to check all the clearances to make sure all is good nothing wrong with doing all that may take time to do buy better safe then sorry Thanks again....
I love that black is the new orange lol. I like black motors
Nice video man! I have the intake off of my 1998 Ford F-150 4.2 v6 right now
Should have painted the block Old Ford Blue, just to screw with people.
It's your truck, your engine, your build; I'm glad you did what you wanted, the mob is fickle..
EDIT: That camshaft installation tool can also be used as a potato masher when not being used to install camshafts!
Thanks for the tip!
Beautiful assemblage!
If you don't have caps to place on the rod bolts to prevent scratching the cylinder walls you can use rubber/neoprene fuel hose or clear nylon tubing slipped over the rod bolts.
I really liked the compressive plastic string gauge, such a simple way to do a difficult job :-D.
I really didn't like that crud coming out of the coolent passages, lucky the tape presented it.
I'm sure you got a lot of satisfaction assembling that engine :-D
i'm reminded of the Heathkit company that made electronic kits that people could build at home, radios/weather stations and many others.
The old electronic mags showed a man holding an assembled kit in both hands.
" Prowd to say i built it myself "
When I was a kid I used to build models. One was a Flying Fortress that had working electric motors you needed to assemble yourself. I never did get that to work right. I didn't follow the instructions either. Still, a great way to learn how to put things together. Thanks for your comment!
This guy is like the Bob Ross of engine building.
BEST BUILD GUIDE THANK YOU
Tip on painting engines. You can cover parts not to be painted with Vaseline or a lot of oil and wipe off with gas to clean
Or grease. We did that with the Ford engine. It worked great on the freeze plugs. That video is linked in the description. Thanks for your comment.
My mechanic didn't want to paint the block black , because it wouldn't show oil leaks. I told him I had a good mechanic so the engine doesn't leak. ;o)
Oh, you.
If it's a small block chevy and it's not leaking oil it's run out of oil
This was an hour of porn for me. Nice to actually see how an engine is put together by hands not diagrams and pictures.
Wonderful explaining of assembly
Straight from Plastigauge, Inc.: "Ideally you should remove the PLASTIGAUGE stripe with a clean oily cloth or industrial de-greasing solvent, but users may be assured that any PLASTIGAUGE left behind is oil soluble and cannot harm the engine in any way. "
Really, that would be nice if true lol I've always been so meticulous to get it off lol so your saying I worried and did all that for nothing haha if so hey I'm good with that but all the guys I learned from had me worrying about leaving any behind lol
Real engine builders use micrometers and not plastigauge.
The E4 inverted torx stud on the rear seal adapter area can be turned using a 4mm 6pt socket😊 jus a lil tidbit
I WOULD NOT EVER USE THAT " MACHINS SHOP " EVER AGAIN, PERIOD. THAT DIRT, PLUS OTHER THINGS, ARE A HUGE RED FLAG FOR THIS SHOP, FIND ANOTHER SHOP, SIR ERIC. THEY KNEW THIS WAS GOING TO BE BUILT ON THE INTERNET & STILL IT'S NOT RIGHT.?
nowr2run WRONG...
Normal to have crude coming out of the coolant passages because of the calcium build up in the block plus they use sand to cast these so particles show up all the time
Even so, they shouldve cleaned it out...
True, but this seemed excessive to me. Knowing they didn't remove the freeze plugs before hot tanking made me a little butt hurt. Especially since I requested they replace them. I think that also contributed.
EricTheCarGuy are there galley plugs too that should be removed?
I think for a seasoned block it's customary for performance applications to remove ALL freeze plugs and gallery plugs to lifters and get in there with rifle bore brushes to knock loose rust and scale.
EricTheCarGuy yeah it would of been a little concerned on freeze plugs. I’ve removed some that looked perfect on the outside but the insides was very rusted. Rust really gets these old sbcs. They’re coming on 30-60 years old.
Eric! Great video again.
If you ever have to remove a ding in a bearing journal. a fine single cut file will carefully do it. followed by a tiny bit of polish with fine wet or dry sand paper.
Holly cow 55 minutes long! I can't watch this now but I WILL :)
Work of art!
Cam tool is designed to keep you from knocking out the rear freeze plug if cam goes past flush threshold on front of engine.
Awesome Job Eric!
Can we take a moment to appreciate how fantastic Eric's beard is?
Ah, a fellow connoisseur. Yes, it is fantastic.
IT'S TIME, OH BOY OH BOY, LET'S GOOOOOOOOOOO.
I always put the cam in first cause there's room for your hands to help guide it through the cam tunnel and plus if it doesn't spin freely or something is wrong it can be fixed without having to tear the crank and pistons back out and redo them all. Ask me how I know this lol so for me every sense I had a cam I now do it first then the crank and pistons