scotty j amen bro ive been to a decent auto tech school however the focus was theroy amd repair not hi performance, but this guy has a formula that just clicks. I did me a 383 sbc for my one ton van 92 g30. Had choppy cam some bolt ons sounded great. Ran nothing like i wanted. Watched me some vids of this man breaking down camshaft knowledge. My rv cammed 2bbl (670cfm holley unit) tbi 350 (aftermarket vortec top end swap as it a 1992) true h.e.i. ign. Is now the torquey beast i was tryin make it. Thanks to vintage iron.
I've only rebuilt a handful of engines, but after doing the fist one and dialing in the cam, I quickly realized what a pain in the ass it was having ALL the pistons in and doing this. From the second on I only put in #1 piston and then dial in the cam. It is, Yeah,,, 8 times easier to roll over the engine!!! lol... I like that you over explain things. Where were you 40 years ago??? ;)
This must be one of the best instruction and educational channels out there. You Sir are very good at explaining engine basics! Thank you for taking time to make theese vids. Keep it up!
Hi.this past wimter I wanted to do a project with my father he is 83 years old.when I was a kid he and I rebuilt a couple of ford 302's.we always rebuilt to stock. This time I wanted to do a s.b.c. for my 81 vette.you really help.me with this build. I cant say it enough you really helped. It had been a long time and things have changed. Well just put the engine in the car sweet really sweet. Thanks again. Mark
Absolutely love this video on the Roller cam and at least you do explain the difference between the flat tappet and Roller cams and how important it is to check not only the cam out just to be sure that the cam is in good condition and is what the cam manufacturer says it is.. then how important it is to degree a cam and be sure it is what it is suppose to be.. thanks again for awesome videos and information..
There is no such thing as a stupid question when it comes to engines it's all a matter of experience and education smart or stupid don't really come into the picture if someone has no experience or understanding of a certain aspect or procedure, asking the how and why questions is not stupid. Let me tell you what is stupid, not asking and just working on it or building it by slapping it together with hopes and dreams but no real research or understanding now that is stupid and it happens all the time Reply ·
Myvintageiron7512 thanks for sharing your experience with newbies like me. I have always wanted to rebuild an engine and now I'm going to do it. I'm a perfectionist and have never had enough knowledge for such an undertaking. Your explanation of the workings of an engine and how to verify that components are correct, along with the "why" things are important to verify make sense and prove that if a builder takes the time to check all the vitality important clearances etc. You can and will build a engine better then factory. Thanks again for your videos. For my first rebuild would you recommend that I build my 383 stroker or just keep things simpler and build my olds 455 rocket? I can also build a 289 I got sitting in the shed, just for the experience.
Just luved it your delivery was good & your cam specs were actually exactly the same as my cam go figure. Made understanding everything so easy. Thnk u so much m8.
Same. I made the mistake first when I was too tired I put the dial on exhaust lifter instead, but I finally have the proper technique burned into my head
Awesome video! I've probably watched 5 different videos on how to degree a cam and I could never get it. You explained it so simply that I got it half way through! Keep up the good work.
Super...thank you. I must have missed the thrust button install. The degree wheel explanation was clear/concise...feel much better about installing my new cam!
I learned something new. I always thiught degree cam was different from straight up. But u actually installed it straight up then degreed it just to verify specs.
Excellent video! I am planning to stroke my 68 Pontiac 350 out to a 383 with a balanced rotary kit. My engine is numbers matching in a 1968 Firebird. The heads have been rebuilt with hardened seats. They are stamped #17 which are 72cc 1.96 / 1.66. I plan to use flat top pistons and want to use a roller cam. Given these perimeters, what would be the best RPM target and Cam selection. My compression should be close to 10.00:1
I should add that I am looking for a cam for street performance and long cruising. Not racing but what to take advantage to the stoke. Any insight would be greatly appreciated. Thank you in advance.
Hi I have watched all of you stroker build videos you are a legend so talented and you have taught me so much as I'm also building a stroker my self well that's with your help there is one question I would like to ask what is the best engine oil to youse for running in and after once again thank you
Great 👍 video question my 76 454 block had a flat tap cam but I’m installing a hydraulic roller the block has provisions (hole) for the cam retainer should I use a retainer plate or the button
It is more informative if you did show how where to start the timing without your making and the problems when timing gears and chain affects the timing. Could you make a part 2 of this video for more education your followers
Man I hope you come around to show us what all this means I normally just line up the little lines and then use the use the little light to figure out where I’m sparking it
Since it took 6 weeks to deliver the cam, when you ordered the cam did it state in fine print that you should wait 4-6 weeks for delivery, due to them having to manufacture the cam first? I know there's some subframe connectors that are made to order, this is so they don't have a bunch of metal stock on hand unpainted (due to customer preference on color, they can't paint them until ordered of course) that will degrade in quality from moisture and whatnot from just sitting around in a warehouse unpainted. Camshafts are the same way, they're precision products that they don't want sitting around with the possibility of getting dinged up in storage, they make either steel or cast iron parts that can't be painted so they don't want the rotating journals to rust from just sitting around. Also it saves them money since they'll produce cams only on demand and preorder, so they're not making a bunch of cams no one wants to use anymore.
there is one thing I always do is put lubricant on any and all bolts that I am going torque to speck .Always. I learned this from an engineering class. A dry bolt will NOT get proper torque. The lubricant allows the bolt to get maxium stretch when torgue is applied.
Lining up the marks on the Cam is done a little different!!!...6/12 you can move the Cam so the button fits the Cam gear properly !!.....Also Crankshaft rotation = twice the Cam rotation!!.....
About 20 years ago, I built just about the same engine you’re building in this series of videos. I went through all the steps you did with a few minor deviations. Someone gave me a solid four bolt main 350 block and I had it prepped by a machine shop…thorough cleaning, boring .030 over and check the deck and install the cam bearings. The cam bearing install was the only thing I didn’t trust myself to do properly. You never showed how to install the cam bearings and insure the oil holes were lined up. You also neglected to emphasize the importance of gapping the rings on hypereutectic pistons which is different from standard cast pistons (wider gap). High compression ratio with its resultant “pinging” using 92 octane pump gas can be mitigated by using aluminum heads. So far, after checking the cam against the cam card specs, which is nothing more than insurance that all the work you’ve done isn’t wasted in case the cam card is wrong, you still haven’t mentioned other things that needed to be described in the first video…like ignition, heads, longer pushrods required due to a smaller base circle of the cam, headers, and intake system (carb or injection). I guess my suggestion is to tell us everything in the first video about what you’re going to build and for what purpose (what’s it being installed in) and then show us how to do it without being redundant. All that aside you made a series of videos of what I did over twenty years ago…383 stroker in a ’66 Nova with stock rear suspension that would do 0 to 60 in 3.7 seconds. Don’t take me the wrong way…it’s a great series of videos I found quite informative and nostalgic. Thanks for posting. I hope people come to you to have their engines built. You definitely know what you’re doing.
So "degreeing a cam" is to verify that the cam is correct and meets specs. I have seen where someones actually changes the timing with an off set key or some other method of rotating the cam sprocket or crank sprocket to "optimize cam timing". I always thought "degreeing the cam" meant that... :-) Thanks. :-)
Hi Bud , I see on the video the first piston is in the down position. Is this the position it's supposed to be at? Just wanted to double check before I install mine thanks
I have a question if you will. I'm building a 454 for a 4x4 truck with a flat tappet cam. Could I use the molly graphite spray on the cam and lifters with the proper assembly lub and zink additive in the oil. Or just use the supplies lub?
Something u didnt touch on was if checking the exhaust side of the cam what stroke does one hav to the piston at? Is it the exhaust stroke as opposed to checking the intake side of things!
For the dial gauge you are running on the cam, is it contacting a mechanical lifter or the actual cam lobe? My dial gauge isn't long enough to hit the cam lobe, do I need another one or can I use a mechanical (not hydraulic) lifter to get measurements? Also, your videos are great to watch, keep it up!
This is a lifter bore gage it rides on the cam you need to buy it for doing this www.summitracing.com/parts/pro-66838?seid=srese1&gclid=Cj0KCQiA4feBBhC9ARIsABp_nbWA-8Dgv0GxHN0VvuDlPW8xg6JG1AXCEw5hTQrADOy2pevo_KiCiQQaAkr5EALw_wcB
You have great videos. I like how you explain why to do things how/why it works, not just how to do it. Is there any way to roughly figure what porting or even just smoothing out runners on intake and/or exhaust will do for flow # ? Hoped to get to 400hp. With this instruction I think I'm looking at 380hp with aftermarket Vortec heads, 76% eff. 2.02/1.60 valves, 61cc comb. chambers, 185cc intake runners. Thought about just cleaning up the exhaust ports.
I’ve kept from going roller because of cost and had nothing to do with racing but I have a 406 and a 350 ready to change to a 383 and would like some info on most inexpensive way to do it while still remaining durable,any help appreaciated
It's amusing hearing "I've been doing this for years" I don't need this tool or that tool and in the end they end up using the tool that's made for ease of installation
Question. When putting together a flat tappet camshaft motor? Is special oil monitory whenever changing the oil? Or only when breaking in the camshaft?
Be mindful of the timing chain slack and allowing your degree wheel to backspin when you let go of tension on your breakover bar. You'll get false readings.
Great tutorial my friend 👍. I'm building my LT1 in my 94 Pontiac Trans am. I'm new at degreeing a camshaft... I'm going to be running a comp cam kit.. my question to you is ??? I'm going to be running hydraulic roller lifter's with a roller comp cam. Is it good to offset the roller rockers?? For instance.. 1.5 roller rockers on intake and 1.6 roller rockers on exhaust??? 2nd question??? Do you recommend LS 7 pushrods in my LT1??? Or just plain LT1 pushrods????
getting ready to degree my first engine. one thing that confused me on the video though. i know you said to go past when turning reverse rotation, then turn normal rotation to .050, but when you release the wrench, the degree wheel turns a degree or 2 (assuming the weight of the wrench).. should you always hold chain tension in the direction of normal rotation for an accurate degree readout?
Do you have a build video for the 1970 or so GMC/chevy big block 396/402. If not do you plan to do one. You video's are excellent. Really enjoy watching them and I learn a lot.
Hi, I've just disassembled my small block 400 that I'm getting ready to rebuild it and start ordering parts. After viewing your video on what length connecting rods to use, I'm just wanting to know if I should go with the 5.700 that you recommend instead of the 5.565 that came out of it. Will it affect the TDC where I will have to go with shorter pistons because I went with the longer rod or will I be safe on the clearance. Thanks. Really enjoy your videos.
Im using KB Hyperutectic Pistons in a 383. They are saying that the piston to wall clearance needed is .002. In your opinion , is this correct ? Sounds tight to me. And to be clear , is that .002 TOTAL , meaning that the difference of the bore vs the piston is only .002 difference ? Thanks for the help. Great video's.
iv got a 383 stroker been sline drilled n 60 over all that I received it just needen the outer components but no idea what I'm doing hoping all u narnuts out there can let me know what all I need I know heads timing chain n gears waterpump fuel pump what else do I need to put this together? please help thank you
I've watched probably 6 or 7 different videos on cam degreeing so far including from Summit Racing and some big-named parts suppliers and engine builders and I haven't found any as clear and to-the-point as this! Having said that I still have a few questions: Measuring lift: Why did you put the dial indicator on the tappet instead of on the valve itself? (How did you position the dial indicator on the tappet? -it appears to be just magically floating there..) -You previously talked about stack tolerances and multiplication of errors adding up being a reason to degree a cam in the first place: it seems like there's no where were this effect would be worse than going from the tappet/pushrod side to the valve side as the rocker ratio multiplies the errors by 1.5 - 1.6--- no?
The dial indicator is attached to a lifter bore gage it is definitely not floating it is sitting directly on the lobe I'm not sure how you would put it on the valve when the heads are not on the engine you will get the cam degreed to the exact degree with this method no margin of error to get valve lift you simply times the lobe lift by rocker ratio
I have a 1997 Chevy vortec 350. And I am gunna rebuild with help of my experienced buddy. So if I wanted to put and different cam in just a tic over stock. And with the stock valve spring's. As long as it will all work? What can I get to have the truck sound good and run decent too? Just a everyday driver. And it's 4x4 with 285/75/16 on it. I'm not sure on what gears they put in those trucks but it is a automatic. Is that enough info??
hi there MVI7512, im new 2 all this, just wanted 2 clarify 1 thing. i hav a new cam to go in my L67 GM 3800 V6 with x2 types of pushrods, anyway i discovered that the exhaust lobes r the 2 inner lobes & the 2 outer lobes r 4 the intake, would that b correct? or r all cams different 2 one another?
hey bro the only thing I don't get is when you worked out durations how did you come up with 180 degrees when your needle said 142 degrees plus the 10 before zero what am I missing that adds up to 152 degrees wheres the other 40 come from
hi mvi sorry if i am re sending this not sure if i posted it b4 or not. i measured the lobes & got 334" inlet & 354" exhaust my rocker ratio is 1.6 so if i multiply i get ,534 inlet & exhaust 564 exhaustmy cam card says inlet valve lift 564 & exhaust valve lift 534. im no engine builder but doesnt this mean my cam grind is wrong? or do i need to degree it to check the grind?
Is there a way to identify a cam (degree it, basically) while the engine is in the car? Maybe this is a video idea for you if this is do-able. I have a project car that doesn't have the heads I expected, and so it may not have the cam I expected either. I'd like to be able to measure the lift, duration, lsa without tearing the heads off, and using a degree wheel is probably not an option either.
@@Myvintageiron7512 Thank you, that's the conclusion I came to. I can find true tdc and lift that way, which is crucial, but I guess I'll need to McGyver up some sort of a degree wheel to figure out duration and lsa.
I replaced my chain and gears with the double roller style. I also took my cam out to inspect it. I have my dots set dot to dot. Can my cam still be 180 degrees out? If so, how do I check it? Thank You.
dot to dot on a chevy is 180 out but its ok to set it up that way to get number 1 on tdc compression one more crank revolution this puts dots at 12 and 12 tdc power stroke
the cam selection is based on head flow and what RPM you want to make your power at Call comp cams help line but have some of your info ready head flow numbers what it's going in and what you want to do with it
very cool i learned alot.For a rookie that never done this before what advice do you have i am going to rebuild a small block 327 a mild build thanks later
First off, great videos. I am pushing sixty now,,,and still building engines. And still,,,reaching for more knowledge. I am not ashamed to watch videos, read books, etc for more knowledge. I have been a professional Triple Master Certified mechanic my whole life. now for the question,,,,Do you happen to check each and every lobe for specs and not just number one cylinder????
get yourself a large surface plate and two same size V-Blocks..set the cam journals on the V-Block and use a dial indicator on the lobes..if you never did this you should, hhhhhh ))
@@Myvintageiron7512 ok thanks, my engine guy told me we will get a new timing set.. what has him puzzled is why there are 198 heads on a vortec roller block. we are going to replace the dish pistons with flat top, and go back with the stock cam. I asked if the .20 thousand ths block bore were doing would raise compression any, and he said bore size has nothing to do with compression ratio but a flat top piston should raise compression maybe to 9 to 1
@@randy1ization to say that compression ratio is not effected by bore size is not correct I'm surprised a machinest would say that, he either needs an education on compression ratio or you mis understood him, to say bore size has nouthing to do with compression ratio is just plain wrong it absolutly does effect it but in your case .020 is not a big deal
@@Myvintageiron7512 it makes sense that a larger cylinder would increase compression ratio. as a teenager I tried putting 350 heads on a 305 chevy.. the car started and ran, but couldnt peel out in wet grass. so the opposite scenario was in effect. its shocking to me that someone could be in the trade so long, and not know these things., hopefully he can get my crank bolted in right, and my pistons in right.
\hey great video, thanks for that. I've always wondered what the cam shaft timing wheel was all about.. So its basically to double check what the manufacturer is telling you. good work ;)
I've been watching your series on the 383 build and was wondering what you think about replacing the LT1's Opti with a coil pack? I've seen a few who have done it but wanted your opinion. Thanks! and sorry if this is not the right place to post this.
yes If reusing the camshaft it is advisable to install new bearings and also mic the cam main journals to make sure they are not worn, new cam bearings (if installed correctly) are very consistent size wise and give good oil clearance as long as the cam goes in with no binding they will be fine the cam bearings have very little stress on them and also remember the cam rotates 1/2 the speed of the crankshaft so it turns slow (Less bearing stress)
Here is a good one for you. Change all the bearing, main as well as connecting rods. Car was running find for a while, but then I started to hear knock/ rattling like sound while the car is in idle once it got up to operating temperature. When I give it gas it goes away. Question what do you think is the cause of this?
Just changing the bearings is not the correct way to fix an engine id the rod bores or main bores are out of round tapered or misaligned it will wipe out the new bearings all of those components need to be checked and/or machined before new bearings are installed
+Myvintageiron7512 and depending on the damage and time spent knocking you could have to change connecting rods because of slight stress bends and if the scoring on the crank is bad enough the machine shop might have to hard face it because taking it 30 thousands down won't get that journal smooth
+Da Beginner pistons could be worn down.... causing piston slap. under load it binds and stops slapping.... but scratches your cylinder walls. the wrist pin on hte piston could be out of round.... could have a chipped piston skirt. bad or improperly installed bearings (ive messed up plenty i thought i didnt mess up) all matter of things in the valve gear.... someone dropped a penny in your carb...... but all jokes aside.... film of this problem would go a long way.... its an 11 month old problem, so...i hope you fixed it.... but. it could be all sorts of things. good luck man. we had an engine that didnt run right.... guy sold it to us... he NEVER changed the spark plugs. that was the only thing wrong with it. ive seen the electrode burn off and fall into engines causing rattles. i had the piston skirt on my enduro break.... somehow didnt take out all the fresh bearings and crap.... missed all the ports, and just dinged up the piston and head..... very lucky i could re-use the jug. a new piston and 3000 miles later.... all is good.
I watched a lot of videos trying to understand degreeing a cam and why. This one is by far the easiest to understand that i have watched.
Thanks
FINALLY !!!!!!!!! SOME ONE THAT EXPLAINS IT PROPERLY , THANK YOU....
scotty j amen bro ive been to a decent auto tech school however the focus was theroy amd repair not hi performance, but this guy has a formula that just clicks. I did me a 383 sbc for my one ton van 92 g30. Had choppy cam some bolt ons sounded great. Ran nothing like i wanted. Watched me some vids of this man breaking down camshaft knowledge. My rv cammed 2bbl (670cfm holley unit) tbi 350 (aftermarket vortec top end swap as it a 1992) true h.e.i. ign. Is now the torquey beast i was tryin make it. Thanks to vintage iron.
No-one has done this better. Exceptional video for degreeing cams.
The good thing is what he is taking his time to explain applies to all engines from chevy ford mopar amc etc. even imports.
Mind blown, step by step instructions and good information
Two thumbs up
I've only rebuilt a handful of engines, but after doing the fist one and dialing in the cam, I quickly realized what a pain in the ass it was having ALL the pistons in and doing this. From the second on I only put in #1 piston and then dial in the cam. It is, Yeah,,, 8 times easier to roll over the engine!!! lol...
I like that you over explain things. Where were you 40 years ago??? ;)
Arrrrgggghhhh! Why didn't I think of only putting one piston in :0(
40 years ago I was in grade school
That's flipping genius lol It doesn't hurt anything or change the accuracy doing it with just 1 piston in?
I put the cam in with block standing vertically...and degree with #1 piston installed.
This must be one of the best instruction and educational channels out there. You Sir are very good at explaining engine basics! Thank you for taking time to make theese vids. Keep it up!
Thanks
Hi.this past wimter I wanted to do a project with my father he is 83 years old.when I was a kid he and I rebuilt a couple of ford 302's.we always rebuilt to stock. This time I wanted to do a s.b.c. for my 81 vette.you really help.me with this build. I cant say it enough you really helped. It had been a long time and things have changed. Well just put the engine in the car sweet really sweet. Thanks again. Mark
Absolutely love this video on the Roller cam and at least you do explain the difference between the flat tappet and Roller cams and how important it is to check not only the cam out just to be sure that the cam is in good condition and is what the cam manufacturer says it is.. then how important it is to degree a cam and be sure it is what it is suppose to be.. thanks again for awesome videos and information..
Best and simplest instruction on everything period. This guys the man
yes, he explains it very well..calm and collected
You answered my question about head cc in this video. Thanks I'll keep watching instead of asking stupid questions. Great videos thanks
There is no such thing as a stupid question when it comes to engines it's all a matter of experience and education smart or stupid don't really come into the picture if someone has no experience or understanding of a certain aspect or procedure, asking the how and why questions is not stupid. Let me tell you what is stupid, not asking and just working on it or building it by slapping it together with hopes and dreams but no real research or understanding now that is stupid and it happens all the time
Reply ·
Myvintageiron7512 thanks for sharing your experience with newbies like me. I have always wanted to rebuild an engine and now I'm going to do it. I'm a perfectionist and have never had enough knowledge for such an undertaking. Your explanation of the workings of an engine and how to verify that components are correct, along with the "why" things are important to verify make sense and prove that if a builder takes the time to check all the vitality important clearances etc. You can and will build a engine better then factory. Thanks again for your videos. For my first rebuild would you recommend that I build my 383 stroker or just keep things simpler and build my olds 455 rocket? I can also build a 289 I got sitting in the shed, just for the experience.
Thank you so much professor now I could drop a cam in my Mustang really helpful now I know what size to use by going off the specs of my heads
Great explanation !! I have a hard time understanding most of that stuff, you do a great job explaining to regular Joe’s.
Just luved it your delivery was good & your cam specs were actually exactly the same as my cam go figure. Made understanding everything so easy. Thnk u so much m8.
Finally got it. Thank you for throughly explaining.
Lol I was tryin to watch some 383 stroker cam exhaust note videos and found this, watched it because it was fascinating AF.
thnxs man i finally got it after watching it about 5 times. the cam spec sheet vid really helped thou!
Same. I made the mistake first when I was too tired I put the dial on exhaust lifter instead, but I finally have the proper technique burned into my head
Awesome video! I've probably watched 5 different videos on how to degree a cam and I could never get it. You explained it so simply that I got it half way through! Keep up the good work.
Love your explanation now I have a little bit of an understanding of a cam and how it works thankyou very much
Super...thank you. I must have missed the thrust button install. The degree wheel explanation was clear/concise...feel much better about installing my new cam!
I learned something new. I always thiught degree cam was different from straight up. But u actually installed it straight up then degreed it just to verify specs.
You are very intelligent, your making me understand everything I need to know before i look into a cam for my ls1 thank you.
383s love solid lift cams!
Thanks for these videos. Really informative and easy to follow.
Thank you for sharing your videos,very informative
Glad you like them!
As always great video. You never dissapoint.
Great work and explanation,,,,,am going to build my own engine with ur great videos
Nicely done
Appreciate your effort
Keep goin'
Good builder info right here boys and girls!
Excellent video! I am planning to stroke my 68 Pontiac 350 out to a 383 with a balanced rotary kit. My engine is numbers matching in a 1968 Firebird. The heads have been rebuilt with hardened seats. They are stamped #17 which are 72cc 1.96 / 1.66. I plan to use flat top pistons and want to use a roller cam. Given these perimeters, what would be the best RPM target and Cam selection. My compression should be close to 10.00:1
I should add that I am looking for a cam for street performance and long cruising. Not racing but what to take advantage to the stoke. Any insight would be greatly appreciated. Thank you in advance.
Hi I have watched all of you stroker build videos you are a legend so talented and you have taught me so much as I'm also building a stroker my self well that's with your help there is one question I would like to ask what is the best engine oil to youse for running in and after once again thank you
you can use Amsoil or lucas break in oil with High ZDDP content
Thanks I like how you explain the specs I'm trying to figure out what cam I want in my 383 4x4 truck motor .
What did u go with
Is that a UTI ID badge behind you. Dunno if you mentioned anything about UTI but noticed that right away.
For a handle on cam a #2 Philips screw driver works great
Great 👍 video question my 76 454 block had a flat tap cam but I’m installing a hydraulic roller the block has provisions (hole) for the cam retainer should I use a retainer plate or the button
Yes.
It is more informative if you did show how where to start the timing without your making and the problems when timing gears and chain affects the timing. Could you make a part 2 of this video for more education your followers
Man I hope you come around to show us what all this means I normally just line up the little lines and then use the use the little light to figure out where I’m sparking it
Since it took 6 weeks to deliver the cam, when you ordered the cam did it state in fine print that you should wait 4-6 weeks for delivery, due to them having to manufacture the cam first? I know there's some subframe connectors that are made to order, this is so they don't have a bunch of metal stock on hand unpainted (due to customer preference on color, they can't paint them until ordered of course) that will degrade in quality from moisture and whatnot from just sitting around in a warehouse unpainted. Camshafts are the same way, they're precision products that they don't want sitting around with the possibility of getting dinged up in storage, they make either steel or cast iron parts that can't be painted so they don't want the rotating journals to rust from just sitting around. Also it saves them money since they'll produce cams only on demand and preorder, so they're not making a bunch of cams no one wants to use anymore.
Yes it is a custom grind the make it after you buy it
great explanation! very easy to understand.
there is one thing I always do is put lubricant on any and all bolts that I am going torque to speck .Always. I learned this from an engineering class. A dry bolt will NOT get proper torque. The lubricant allows the bolt to get maxium stretch when torgue is applied.
AMAZING, NOW I UNDERSTAND. THANK YOU!
Lining up the marks on the Cam is done a little different!!!...6/12 you can move the Cam so the button fits the Cam gear properly !!.....Also Crankshaft rotation = twice the Cam rotation!!.....
Loved you video,I'm doing a build on a 30 400 small block,with a mild hydraulic roller cam with 76 cc heads on pump gas....any advice.
thanks for the video can u list the all the tools you used and where would be the best place to buy them thanks
Seriously awesome videos, keep up the good work!
About 20 years ago, I built just about the same engine you’re building in this series of videos. I went through all the steps you did with a few minor deviations. Someone gave me a solid four bolt main 350 block and I had it prepped by a machine shop…thorough cleaning, boring .030 over and check the deck and install the cam bearings. The cam bearing install was the only thing I didn’t trust myself to do properly. You never showed how to install the cam bearings and insure the oil holes were lined up. You also neglected to emphasize the importance of gapping the rings on hypereutectic pistons which is different from standard cast pistons (wider gap). High compression ratio with its resultant “pinging” using 92 octane pump gas can be mitigated by using aluminum heads. So far, after checking the cam against the cam card specs, which is nothing more than insurance that all the work you’ve done isn’t wasted in case the cam card is wrong, you still haven’t mentioned other things that needed to be described in the first video…like ignition, heads, longer pushrods required due to a smaller base circle of the cam, headers, and intake system (carb or injection). I guess my suggestion is to tell us everything in the first video about what you’re going to build and for what purpose (what’s it being installed in) and then show us how to do it without being redundant. All that aside you made a series of videos of what I did over twenty years ago…383 stroker in a ’66 Nova with stock rear suspension that would do 0 to 60 in 3.7 seconds. Don’t take me the wrong way…it’s a great series of videos I found quite informative and nostalgic. Thanks for posting. I hope people come to you to have their engines built. You definitely know what you’re doing.
So "degreeing a cam" is to verify that the cam is correct and meets specs. I have seen where someones actually changes the timing with an off set key or some other method of rotating the cam sprocket or crank sprocket to "optimize cam timing". I always thought "degreeing the cam" meant that... :-) Thanks. :-)
how does 148+60 = 209? you're actually at 208/2 which is 104 right? i know its only .5*, just curious if there is always a degree added?
Do you have to check all the lobes or just the first intake/ outake pair?
Hi Bud , I see on the video the first piston is in the down position. Is this the position it's supposed to be at? Just wanted to double check before I install mine thanks
Whose 1930s green car is in that picture? Beautiful car!
That was my uncle's car
I have a question if you will. I'm building a 454 for a 4x4 truck with a flat tappet cam. Could I use the molly graphite spray on the cam and lifters with the proper assembly lub and zink additive in the oil. Or just use the supplies lub?
Something u didnt touch on was if checking the exhaust side of the cam what stroke does one hav to the piston at? Is it the exhaust stroke as opposed to checking the intake side of things!
Use a timing gear with a torington bearing on the back side of gear so no contact from gear and engine block
I think I would use a stiffer pointer something that slides and locks otherwise good run through
For the dial gauge you are running on the cam, is it contacting a mechanical lifter or the actual cam lobe? My dial gauge isn't long enough to hit the cam lobe, do I need another one or can I use a mechanical (not hydraulic) lifter to get measurements? Also, your videos are great to watch, keep it up!
This is a lifter bore gage it rides on the cam you need to buy it for doing this
www.summitracing.com/parts/pro-66838?seid=srese1&gclid=Cj0KCQiA4feBBhC9ARIsABp_nbWA-8Dgv0GxHN0VvuDlPW8xg6JG1AXCEw5hTQrADOy2pevo_KiCiQQaAkr5EALw_wcB
Hey Kerry this is my engine, i was just curious if i could add a turbo or supercharger to this without any problems?
You have great videos. I like how you explain why to do things how/why it works, not just how to do it.
Is there any way to roughly figure what porting or even just smoothing out runners on intake and/or exhaust will do for flow # ? Hoped to get to 400hp. With this instruction I think I'm looking at 380hp with aftermarket Vortec heads, 76% eff. 2.02/1.60 valves, 61cc comb. chambers, 185cc intake runners. Thought about just cleaning up the exhaust ports.
I’ve kept from going roller because of cost and had nothing to do with racing but I have a 406 and a 350 ready to change to a 383 and would like some info on most inexpensive way to do it while still remaining durable,any help appreaciated
It's amusing hearing "I've been doing this for years" I don't need this tool or that tool and in the end they end up using the tool that's made for ease of installation
Yup
Initial cleaning of cam and lifters before dry graphite lube? Brake cleaner spray ok to use for initial cleaning?
Question. When putting together a flat tappet camshaft motor? Is special oil monitory whenever changing the oil? Or only when breaking in the camshaft?
hi buddy can u tell me a little more about the metal rod u hav positioned on the lifter do u hav it drilled for the plunger or is it just a dowl?
Be mindful of the timing chain slack and allowing your degree wheel to backspin when you let go of tension on your breakover bar. You'll get false readings.
do you have any videos on installing a gear drive timing set?
When you place the main caps on.. do they self align when bolts align?
Great tutorial my friend 👍. I'm building my LT1 in my 94 Pontiac Trans am. I'm new at degreeing a camshaft... I'm going to be running a comp cam kit.. my question to you is ??? I'm going to be running hydraulic roller lifter's with a roller comp cam. Is it good to offset the roller rockers?? For instance.. 1.5 roller rockers on intake and 1.6 roller rockers on exhaust??? 2nd question??? Do you recommend LS 7 pushrods in my LT1??? Or just plain LT1 pushrods????
you can use 1.5/1.6 rockers to get desired lift your LT pushrods should be fine
@@Myvintageiron7512 thanks for responding back and your input👍...
getting ready to degree my first engine. one thing that confused me on the video though. i know you said to go past when turning reverse rotation, then turn normal rotation to .050, but when you release the wrench, the degree wheel turns a degree or 2 (assuming the weight of the wrench).. should you always hold chain tension in the direction of normal rotation for an accurate degree readout?
what is the differencein a flat tappet cam and a roller cam? is it just the lifters or is the cam different
Do you have a build video for the 1970 or so GMC/chevy big block 396/402. If not do you plan to do one. You video's are excellent. Really enjoy watching them and I learn a lot.
th-cam.com/video/ykN-0-slcAk/w-d-xo.html
Hi, I've just disassembled my small block 400 that I'm getting ready to rebuild it and start ordering parts. After viewing your video on what length connecting rods to use, I'm just wanting to know if I should go with the 5.700 that you recommend instead of the 5.565 that came out of it. Will it affect the TDC where I will have to go with shorter pistons because I went with the longer rod or will I be safe on the clearance. Thanks. Really enjoy your videos.
You will need a different piston but they are available
Im using KB Hyperutectic Pistons in a 383. They are saying that the piston to wall clearance needed is .002. In your opinion , is this correct ? Sounds tight to me. And to be clear , is that .002 TOTAL , meaning that the difference of the bore vs the piston is only .002 difference ? Thanks for the help. Great video's.
Yea sounds right Hyperutectic runs the same clearance as cast pistons .002 will be fine
iv got a 383 stroker been sline drilled n 60 over all that I received it just needen the outer components but no idea what I'm doing hoping all u narnuts out there can let me know what all I need I know heads timing chain n gears waterpump fuel pump what else do I need to put this together? please help thank you
I've watched probably 6 or 7 different videos on cam degreeing so far including from Summit Racing and some big-named parts suppliers and engine builders and I haven't found any as clear and to-the-point as this!
Having said that I still have a few questions:
Measuring lift: Why did you put the dial indicator on the tappet instead of on the valve itself? (How did you position the dial indicator on the tappet? -it appears to be just magically floating there..) -You previously talked about stack tolerances and multiplication of errors adding up being a reason to degree a cam in the first place: it seems like there's no where were this effect would be worse than going from the tappet/pushrod side to the valve side as the rocker ratio multiplies the errors by 1.5 - 1.6--- no?
The dial indicator is attached to a lifter bore gage it is definitely not floating it is sitting directly on the lobe I'm not sure how you would put it on the valve when the heads are not on the engine you will get the cam degreed to the exact degree with this method no margin of error to get valve lift you simply times the lobe lift by rocker ratio
Where do you buy your cams?
Engine Performance warehouse Inc...
I have a 1997 Chevy vortec 350. And I am gunna rebuild with help of my experienced buddy. So if I wanted to put and different cam in just a tic over stock. And with the stock valve spring's. As long as it will all work? What can I get to have the truck sound good and run decent too? Just a everyday driver. And it's 4x4 with 285/75/16 on it. I'm not sure on what gears they put in those trucks but it is a automatic. Is that enough info??
It is a torington bearing style button
hi there MVI7512, im new 2 all this, just wanted 2 clarify 1 thing. i hav a new cam to go in my L67 GM 3800 V6 with x2 types of pushrods, anyway i discovered that the exhaust lobes r the 2 inner lobes & the 2 outer lobes r 4 the intake, would that b correct? or r all cams different 2 one another?
How do you install the cam on it? Isn't it supposed to be in an exact position on the shaft?
hey bro the only thing I don't get is when you worked out durations how did you come up with 180 degrees when your needle said 142 degrees plus the 10 before zero what am I missing that adds up to 152 degrees wheres the other 40 come from
hi mvi sorry if i am re sending this not sure if i posted it b4 or not. i measured the lobes & got 334" inlet & 354" exhaust my rocker ratio is 1.6 so if i multiply i get ,534 inlet & exhaust 564 exhaustmy cam card says inlet valve lift 564 & exhaust valve lift 534. im no engine builder but doesnt this mean my cam grind is wrong? or do i need to degree it to check the grind?
Is there a way to identify a cam (degree it, basically) while the engine is in the car? Maybe this is a video idea for you if this is do-able. I have a project car that doesn't have the heads I expected, and so it may not have the cam I expected either. I'd like to be able to measure the lift, duration, lsa without tearing the heads off, and using a degree wheel is probably not an option either.
Yes it can be done you can use the piston stop method for true TDC and use a dial indicator on your rocker arm
@@Myvintageiron7512 Thank you, that's the conclusion I came to. I can find true tdc and lift that way, which is crucial, but I guess I'll need to McGyver up some sort of a degree wheel to figure out duration and lsa.
I replaced my chain and gears with the double roller style. I also took my cam out to inspect it. I have my dots set dot to dot. Can my cam still be 180 degrees out? If so, how do I check it? Thank You.
dot to dot on a chevy is 180 out but its ok to set it up that way to get number 1 on tdc compression one more crank revolution this puts dots at 12 and 12 tdc power stroke
Thanks for these videos
Can you recommend a camshaft full kit for my stroker build? I appreciate it.
how do i choose the proper cam for my build?
the cam selection is based on head flow and what RPM you want to make your power at Call comp cams help line but have some of your info ready head flow numbers what it's going in and what you want to do with it
Very nice video thank you!Keep going! You should start teaching somewhere!
Wouldn’t a 1:6 give you more power/flow?
very cool i learned alot.For a rookie that never done this before what advice do you have i am going to rebuild a small block 327 a mild build thanks later
First off, great videos. I am pushing sixty now,,,and still building engines. And still,,,reaching for more knowledge. I am not ashamed to watch videos, read books, etc for more knowledge. I have been a professional Triple Master Certified mechanic my whole life. now for the question,,,,Do you happen to check each and every lobe for specs and not just number one cylinder????
get yourself a large surface plate and two same size V-Blocks..set the cam journals on the V-Block and use a dial indicator on the lobes..if you never did this you should, hhhhhh ))
how tight should the timing chain be? should there be any slack, or very tight?
The service manual gives you a defeection spec most are a little loose
@@Myvintageiron7512 ok thanks, my engine guy told me we will get a new timing set.. what has him puzzled is why there are 198 heads on a vortec roller block. we are going to replace the dish pistons with flat top, and go back with the stock cam. I asked if the .20 thousand ths block bore were doing would raise compression any, and he said bore size has nothing to do with compression ratio but a flat top piston should raise compression maybe to 9 to 1
@@randy1ization to say that compression ratio is not effected by bore size is not correct I'm surprised a machinest would say that, he either needs an education on compression ratio or you mis understood him, to say bore size has nouthing to do with compression ratio is just plain wrong it absolutly does effect it but in your case .020 is not a big deal
@@Myvintageiron7512 it makes sense that a larger cylinder would increase compression ratio. as a teenager I tried putting 350 heads on a 305 chevy.. the car started and ran, but couldnt peel out in wet grass. so the opposite scenario was in effect. its shocking to me that someone could be in the trade so long, and not know these things., hopefully he can get my crank bolted in right, and my pistons in right.
\hey great video, thanks for that. I've always wondered what the cam shaft timing wheel was all about.. So its basically to double check what the manufacturer is telling you.
good work ;)
I've been watching your series on the 383 build and was wondering what you think about replacing the LT1's Opti with a coil pack? I've seen a few who have done it but wanted your opinion. Thanks! and sorry if this is not the right place to post this.
HMMM nope I have never done that
I'm going to be building a 383 for my 4x4 k10 and my question is if you have a 383 stroker in your truck can you drive it everyday
YEP
last time I checked 148+60 is 208
Haha, you also caught that👍
Saw that as well
th-cam.com/video/WLXK8avcdwo/w-d-xo.html
What's the clearance on cam bearing for your oil clearance does that mater?
yes If reusing the camshaft it is advisable to install new bearings and also mic the cam main journals to make sure they are not worn, new cam bearings (if installed correctly) are very consistent size wise and give good oil clearance as long as the cam goes in with no binding they will be fine the cam bearings have very little stress on them and also remember the cam rotates 1/2 the speed of the crankshaft so it turns slow (Less bearing stress)
Here is a good one for you. Change all the bearing, main as well as connecting rods. Car was running find for a while, but then I started to hear knock/ rattling like sound while the car is in idle once it got up to operating temperature. When I give it gas it goes away. Question what do you think is the cause of this?
Just changing the bearings is not the correct way to fix an engine id the rod bores or main bores are out of round tapered or misaligned it will wipe out the new bearings all of those components need to be checked and/or machined before new bearings are installed
+Myvintageiron7512 and depending on the damage and time spent knocking you could have to change connecting rods because of slight stress bends and if the scoring on the crank is bad enough the machine shop might have to hard face it because taking it 30 thousands down won't get that journal smooth
+Da Beginner pistons could be worn down.... causing piston slap. under load it binds and stops slapping.... but scratches your cylinder walls.
the wrist pin on hte piston could be out of round....
could have a chipped piston skirt.
bad or improperly installed bearings (ive messed up plenty i thought i didnt mess up)
all matter of things in the valve gear....
someone dropped a penny in your carb......
but all jokes aside.... film of this problem would go a long way.... its an 11 month old problem, so...i hope you fixed it.... but. it could be all sorts of things. good luck man.
we had an engine that didnt run right.... guy sold it to us... he NEVER changed the spark plugs. that was the only thing wrong with it.
ive seen the electrode burn off and fall into engines causing rattles.
i had the piston skirt on my enduro break.... somehow didnt take out all the fresh bearings and crap.... missed all the ports, and just dinged up the piston and head..... very lucky i could re-use the jug. a new piston and 3000 miles later.... all is good.
Crankshaft endplay? Just a thought, I had the same thing happen to me and it ended up being endplay.