How-To Rebuild Top End Chevy 350 Small Block Engine Motorz #67
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 26 มี.ค. 2012
- Chris shows you how to rebuild the top end of a Chevy 350 V8 small block engine.
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Watch the complete Chevy 350 engine rebuild series:
1. Tear Down: • How-To Tear Down Chevy...
2. Machine Shop: • How-To Machine Chevy 3...
3. Bottom End: • How-To Rebuild Bottom ...
4. Top End: • How-To Rebuild Top End...
5. Finale: • How-To Complete Rebuil... - ยานยนต์และพาหนะ
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This video series helped me stick my first 350 together in high-school about 6 years ago. Thank yall so much once again!!
Thanks Davis! I'm happy it helped.
Some of the head bolt holes extend down into the water jackets. Those head bolts have to have thread sealer...
Watching this while working on my small block
Damn you shoved that cam in haha
Pro tip, lube the camshaft as you insert, helps reduce mess.
I found a 1973 dodge charger on craigslist with the 360 engine still intact, I'm thinking about buying it. This will be my first car restoration and I'm getting very excited watching all these videos.
I hope you got it!
Nice serie of Chevy 350 small block
should have use thread sealer not oil water will leak past the head bolts
not all sbc's have head bolt holes with open water jackets. i have also read that you can use teflon tape, instead of permatex aviation 2 form a gasket.
i actually have a sbc right now where a majority of the bolt holes are Blind, its... odd by they all work like normal.
Love the series, built many SBC myself -- and I hate to gripe but ive seen two major mistakes so far, the rear main seal was installed with no lubricant on the seal material, this will damage the seal in startup and may well lead to an oil leak very soon --- the second major mistake is he put the head bolts in with oil instead of silicone sealer, in a stock block such as this the head bolts enter the cooling jackets and MUST have silicone sealer on the threads, they come this way fr. factory.
If you’re gonna do anything for performance, you might as well get a set of roller rockers too, every little bit helps
Great show, I enjoy the out takes too.
Fun fact: Some camshafts sold by Crower/Lunati and a few others are actually reboxed white box camshafts made by Elgin. Study the cam specs and you can purchase the same cam from Elgin at a little over half the price.
Ummmmmm. I think you forgot something. Some of those bolts go right into the water jacket. They need sealant on the threads.
I just mentioned that and then saw your text, maybe the new way to fly.
What about sealant on the head bolts ???
this really is the most helpful show
love the show thanks! keep up the awsum work
Those V-Tec 4 bangers are actually pretty nice, variable valve timing.
This 350 Chevy engine isn't the only thing on the show with its top built.
I think this is a pretty great series! One thing I really want to see done is actual assembly of the cylinder head please! I'm in the process of building my first motor and trying to do it step by step and do it right. Not just throw parts together. I'm sure I'm not the only person unsure of valve guide seals and such and some of the information surrounding the valve train. like where to get those specs and such. Thank you, in any case!
Curious why he didn't go with a set of roller rockers too since they put roller cam in and Dart heads? Spend the extra on the rockers too. Just my opinion I guess.
You should do the torquing with smaller foot lbs . At first, maybe 20 lbs first. than maybe 50lbs. and than 70 lbs.
im not trying to knock the video. its not a good idea to use moly lube on the cam bearings because they can delay oil to the rest of the engines components during initial start up.
i learned this the hard way now i onl;y use the moly on the lifter bottoms and the lobes oil on the bearing surfaces.
1080p, great show chris
To who ever reads this comment never use a universal socket joint to torque down a bolt. The reason being it doesn't give you a precise torque.
You can always calculate the difference. Extensions are about 3% loss and anti seize is about 20%. Yes avoid it if you can, especially on the bottom end of the engine but if you can calculate the loss then it’s the same amount of torque..
What about the extension he's using on the torgue wrench.
its was a great experience
Thanks for the info grate show. But I've heard in other vids that in a 350 Small block chevy you don't put your timing cange with piston #1 at TDC insted you put #6 at comprestion stroke. What is your comment on that?
I liked the information regarding the parts information.
Rather than point out negative feedback, I only have one question, why did you zoom through the valve, lifter and rod installation and specs. Is there a website where you can point me in the right direction?
Have you fired the engine yet or will that be in the next video? I noticed you didnt use any sealant but oil on the bottom heads bolts that run into the water jackets. Or did you just not show it? Very important step to note so water doesnt seep out.
Chris, have you considered the torque factor when you add the oil to the threads of those bolts? thanks
Crazy that I just found this acc thanks for the info I’m thinking about getting an edle brock top end kit with a cam but I’m just so damn nervous imma fuck it up
These videos are GREAT! There's one thing though... When's Olivia going to get in on some engine building? She needs some seat time! You guys should do a "carburetor'd turbocharged build on a small-block V8 and get her in on it! I really would like to see how to turbo a carburetor'd v8 though, I here there are some things about air pressures within and outside the carb that have be dealt with. Again though, GREAT VID's KEEP IT UP!
After installing the intake what do you do with the blue tape on the oil pressure journal ?? leave it there ??
I just found you on TH-cam and it so happens I am getting ready to rebuild my C10 350 engine. Is there any way of getting the parts list you used in this series (everything you changed or install new). All I need are the parts list and the vendors names. Thank you so much for the videos, please keep it coming (I subscribed so I will be watching any/all things you post).
You're supposed to use thread sealer on the head bolts when your using a factor chevy block not oil. If you don't you're going to have an oil pan full of coolant as well as a coolant leak on every head bolt.
The only block I know of that doesn't require thread sealant is made by DART and that's because the head bolt holes are blind and aren't open to the water jacket.
are those tty head bolts? there is more than one tightening sequence. it should be in thirds starting around 25 ft/lbs. and it's easier to check prestart valve lash and push rods angle with the intake while turning the engine over. your supposed to set final lash with the engine warm and running. I always have a set of valve covers I cut for that purpose.
Sway bars at 14:00 what is that Finnish called?! Pitted gunmetal gray? Love it. Need to know!
Thank you! We are cranking more out soon!
the chick makes this video very entertaining and educational at the same time!
wet bolts actually give a false torque unless your manual specifies to lubricate them.
What size torque wrench drive have you been using for this build? I'm going to sears soon for a new one
he left out that you need to prime the oil pump by hand. it will damage it.
i was wondering the same thing!!
2011 mustang??
love the videos keep making them
If you want to make your life easier, adjust the valve lash before installing the intake manifold. Its way easier. As you spin it to top dead you can actually watch the pushrod compress the lifter while you tighten the rockers. (if it's not a solid lifter engine that is).
So, what happened to the tape over the oil hole?
Hi, I notice you did not install a cam button with the roller cam did you not need a cam button?
You are suppose to use thread sealer on thru holes for most production sbc blocks. Bowtie blocks and aftermarket blocks have whats called blind holes that dont require thread sealant and can be assembled with oil or arp molley coat. The use of oil with thru holes will leak into the engine. It also hepls to o-ring the head bolts as a second seal.
What keeps the cam shaft from coming out? Is there a retainer? Guess I missed that part.
when are you gonna finish this series ive been waiting long enough it feels like
i got a question, is not mandatory put some silicone in to the heads bolts? thanks and i appreciate the help.
Hello, do you need dart topps to gett the dart intake to fitt or can u buy just the intake??
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2023 still watching it
So I'm trying to follow the torque sequence. Would the number 17 bolt be at the very front(nearest to fan) on both sides? Or is the right side order opposite of the left side?
Can you do a L28ET out of a 280zx next. I'm having trouble with mine and could use some help.
Question: Many years ago I built a lot of engines and we always put thread sealer on the threads of the head bolts, especially the ones in the water jackets. It also would act like a lubricant for proper torque on the heads. Is this something new that you don’t need to do that, just dip them in motor oil will take care of it.
lol, im gonna say they left the engine in the upright position for the camera and videos purpose. But, to make it easier to put the heads on, rotate your engine stand to where your head can lay flat down. It will make it way easy, if you gotta do it by yourself. Also, to keep the head gasket from moving, it wont hurt to put JUST A LITTLE rtv in two of the corners to keep it stuck.
Hi, I rebuilt LT1 350 to 383 keeping the clearances on higher range side.
I wanted to use 20-50 oil as it is easily available here opposed to what OEM is calling for (5-30, 10-30). I spun bearings with 5W-30.. so I'm hesitant with low viscosities oils
Should 20-50 be fine? or maybe 60 race oil?
I have built several sbc and bbc and I am curious about the head bolts in oil also how do you keep the gasket/surfaces free from oil when you insert the bolt? I would think this is a semi dangerous practice i was always told "Cleanliness is next to Godliness".
I guess the blue team does not have those special tools
Tlcbear2 is right always put thread sealer on the head bolts. And whats with the roller cam shouldnt there be a thrust plate or cam button so it doesnt walk?
After watching all the other car shows, I thought you always just tossed out the 350 and picked up a free crate 502 from Chevy.
I always torque in 3 steps.......such as 70 ft. Lbs. on the head bolts would get a 40.....55.....then the final 70. When I lived in Indy . Steve Schmidt Racing engines did all of my engine machine work. Awesome race shop awesome engine work At the time in the late 90's SSRE was. Building A lot of engines for NHRA pro stock. Not sure if he still does. I remember when I took my block in for machine work and it was all clean with the inside and outside painted and the block machinist who did the machining asked if my engine was a raw casting and I said no.....I bead blasted it in my large blast cabinet. I remember the block machinist commenting....... WOW.....I have never seen a seasoned block come in that clean before.....LOL.....I would tape and plug any surfaces I didn't want blasted and go at it.Give a rinse in the parts washer using mineral spirits engine brush and blow out it all the holes then paint the insides of the block with Glyptol red engine enamel. It helps the enamel to adhere better then I would paint the exterior of the block with high heat engine enamel. No issues whatsoever the paint always adhered well and looked fresh and new. No peeling.... Whenever I would get my engines back from the machine shop they were pretty much already to go with assembly. All cleaning deburring painting taken care f ahead f time. I always got the non chemical,rinse after machine work just to remove machining debris. I always washed the block a couple times with the pressure washer and Tide powder soap and have the oil squirt can ready to prevent rusting the freshly machined surfaces after the block and passages are air compressed blown dry. Engine supplies from Goodson always helped in my engine rebuilding. I usually shot blasted the crank and rods. Any type of blasting takes a meticulous cleaning with every bore brushed, rinsed and then brushed and rinsed again. ARP racing studs for the crank and heads on any performance engine.....ALWAYS.....I often used Total Seal piston rings along with TRW moly rings....I had no issues......Get a degree wheel and degree in the cam....it is worth it....if you are an engine builder you know the scoop......if not.....get a good engine rebuild book and if you are mechanically inclined you can learn it. I built an engine testing stand and ran my engines before they were put in the vehicle. Helped with tuning and to check for any issues. To me engine building was a hobby..... I always enjoyed it. Sometimes the best option now a days is to just purchase a crate engine. Ready to go as far as the block machining and depending on a short or long block kit the hard meticulous precision machining work has already been done for you. ......Have Fun.
I bought a stage 3 camshaft kit for a SBC 5.7 vortec engine, the kit came with the camschaft lifters, gear and timing chain, I put the stage 3 cam, the gear and the timing chain, but I did not put the new lifters that came I put the stock ones in the kit, now when I drive my truck it doesn't take off, I press the throttle and it almost doesn't run, the engine sounds as if I hadn't put anything on it, my question is the following: does the engine of my truck work? So why didn't I put the new lifters on it?
Thank you George! Great feedback and suggestions, too!
glow plugs?
what brand of motor oil do you recommend
Why didn't you put thread sealer on the bolts?
RamblinAround do you have to put thread sealer on all the head bolts? I'm assembling my small block soon??
Yes, you need to seal all the head bolts on a SBC, or you'll have coolant leaks.
How would you have a leak there blind holes
You must determine if your block's head bolts have open water jackets. I believe blocks that are pre 1990s are open.
You are suppose to use thread sealer on thru holes for most production sbc blocks. Bowtie blocks and aftermarket blocks have whats called blind holes that dont require thread sealant and can be assembled with oil or arp molley coat. The use of oil with thru holes will leak into the engine. It also hepls to o-ring the head bolts as a second seal.
do you need a gasket for the oil pump or no???
What are the weight comparisons between aluminum heads and cast iron heads?
@Roxanne2011castillo Spark plugs is the word you are looking for glow plugs are only in diesel.
Thank you for saying so! Glad they have helped you out!
Aircooled VWs are old.. LOL. Like older Bugs and whatnot. Don't hate on 4-bangers. V8 muscle and turbo'd 4,5, and 6 cylinder engines are all cool. My turbo'd 4-cylinder smashes on V8s all day long AND gets better gas mileage. But I still love my '91 Trans Am. But anyways..just appreciate car culture altogether. Don't hate.
hey Chris are you going to do something with this engine?
great video. question im 17 so im stilling learning everything their is to know about engines. The crank sprocket gear, do you have to remove it if you swap the cam and put it bad to top dead center???
i would.
Mr Chris Duke, im having a bad knock on top of a chevy express 1500 (Savanna) i try the engine cleaner ,new oil and nothing.After wtching your video i got more acarier of doing the job my self , i thought i could change the lifters on the drivers side , just removing the intake and i saw on your video , that i need to remove the heads. im not a mechanic and the shop wants 1100 $ i cant paid that . Can you help with advice on how to do the work.(need to change lifters). Thanks
i have a 1981 buick regal, but it has a monte carlo engine, my alternator and battery are fine, but it wont crank up, do you have any suggestions
Is the process basically the same for a 98 5.7 vortec
my shop teacher back in the day told me its for accurate torque, thats what i heard, not sure if its totaly right. i rebuilt heads on my chevy lumina and the instructions from felpro said to soak the threads in oil first. if the heads are on the block im sure the weight would keep a tight enough seal on the gaskets... at least thats what would make sence.
wont all that oil on the head bolts hydraulic and give a false reading at the torque spec,
maybe moly lube on one side of the treads will be sufficient enough.
I didnt think u use Moly on roller cams? just straight oil
Could not of said it any better myself
It is false that dipping bolts in oil that are TTY style gives you more accurate torque. It requires a small dab of oil. All of the oil off that bolt that the guy dipped in, went to the bottom of the threads where there is no way of it draining out, when you torque it, the oil in the bottom is compressed and will effect the torque.
i'll be damn
Bam, just answered my question about oiling bolts that will be set at a specific torque. A little leading oil on the threads, 2-3 threads, not dipped and globbed with extra oil to spare!
You're absolutely right.
would that be the same procedure for a vortec 350 v8 5.7 on a 1999 chevy etc?
? that cam install was anything but careful and slow
Hey look everyone, I found a famous person prior to being famous 👍! Haha great channel man.
When he says torque to foot pounds twice is he loosening them in between?
Hello, I was just curious about dipping the threaded ends of the bolts in oil. Is that something that the manufacturer specified. I'm an aircraft mechanic and on fasteners we are tought to achieve proper torqe with clean dry threads. No matter if its a reciprocating engine similar to autos of a turbine engine, unless otherwise specified by the manufacturer.
Good luck uploading them all again! That will take a while...
If they were using stock style head bolt you are correct, but it looks like they are using aftermarket bolts "possibly ARP" which are not ' torque to yeild' like the stock bolts. My concern is that they didn't use a sealer style lubricant which ARP and others make because those head bolts go to water. It is highly possible that coolant will now get into the engine.
All that work & upgrades & then use stock style rocker arms ???
Does it matter how your cam shaft is installed, what I mean is the direction of it or does it not matter at all, just any way I can get it in.
Thank you for the feedback... we always appreciate suggestions.
1,000th like. You're welcome.
I noticed you didn't mention that you had to turn the crank 360° to get your time and dots at 12 that would be number one top dead center compression stroke
Damn, you beat me to it! Haha.
Do u make any ford 302V8 rebuild videos
Why did he pound on the low timing chain gear? That mess up your end play and f up your bearing. They have a tool that presses it on with no damage to your bottom end. And the last time I work on my 350 the intake torques down to 30 lbs.
Instead of RTV for the gaskets could I use Indian Head Shellac?
so im workin on an 87 silverado with a 1st gen 350, all i know is it was run without oil, now its knocking, i got a couple lifters that were trouble gettin out, a couple that wont budge, so far i understand that i should replace lifters and cam, but is it really that easy to do a cam?...i though i needed a cam card and special tools and what not?....any tips or knowledge appreciated.
After oil starvation I would think cam bearings to be suspect as well. I've read many stories of people buying new cam kits and having a knock - either from not using ZDDP/equivalent assembly/break-in lube, or not replacing camshaft bearings. I would do lifter, cam and bearing set. Removing and pushing in bearings would be the real PITA. I'd also drop the oil pain and see if there's an obvious loose rod cap. If you replace a rod bearing, it should be machined but if the crank isn't scored/scratched I would really just install a new rod bearing. Have done so in the past.
Are you ever going to build a JDM motor for a civic from scratch like a B18 c1 or refered to as a GSR motor. I would love to see that- I sucribed to your channel you guys rock