You do it very much the same as me, everything must be clean, clean, clean !. A few things I now do, rather then use assemble lube on the piston skirts witch can't really get into the ring lands where you need good lubrication on first fire up, I use to submerge the pistons & clocked rings in a tray of 30 weight oil, witch does work well, however my machine shop told me nowdays they use WD40 spray and just spray the pistons & rings real heavy, then pop them in the bores. Then to stop any contact of the rod bolt threads coming in contact with the rod journals of the crank I use 2 pieces of 3/8s fuel line on the threads of the rod bolts to protect from damage to the crank or threads of the rod bolts . I also put a good shot of oil on the inside of the piston pin (both sides) and work the piston all around to lube the pin area, a common issue for SBC with press fit pins. Building my 67 Chevy fresh bored.030 over 327 in about a month with new everything & Molly rings.
This video will help me as well to rebuild my own 350 engine with my rebuild kit thanks keep the videos coming also wanna know how to wire I have a 1977 c10 so if you got videos on that as well definitely will check it out 👍🏽
That's what i was going to say. I liked to put the rubber fuel line on the bolts to keep from damaging the crankshaft. You should soak the pistons in motor oil before you install them as well.
I didn’t check my bearings when building a 327 over the summer. And I reused cam bearings. Engine sounds great but has no oil pressure lol. Gonna sell it and build a 350 the right way this time.
Awesome content, i have a 2 bolt 350 in my 66 impala im looking to get some power out of. So far ive done, edelbrock performer intake, new exhaust, new 600 holley, new distributor, lunati voodoo 262/268 cam. Where to from here? It goes well but i always want more!
At the beginning of the video around 8:50 when you were getting the clearance for the crankshaft... What was leaving those marks on the crankshaft and the bearing caps? Was it being scratched? I thought scratches were harmful to those pieces. When you used the paper to find the measurement, what were you doing with that information? Because if its wrong you cant undo the scratches you made and try again?
Hey brother I just seen your video sorry it's a little late but hey where do I get those cleaners cuz I like to clean all the holes in my block I just got a new '01 block also it's a four-bolt main and I want to get it all cleaned up all the threads are my all that stuff so if you can give me a little hint where I can get the all those cleaners at I appreciate it brother Good looking motor
Once the mains are torqued you need to spin it over once or twice tops and then take the caps off qnd read. Circle pattern also never heard of. Start in the middle and work your way out. Doing it in three steps. I haven't seen your method
Did you have the rotating assembly balanced or no? Still debating spending the money after changing pistons to flattops from dish. I know its preferred and a must for high rev high rpm builds but for a mild street build im debating skipping it this time around 🤔
I was taught that as well but never could explain why. Also was told to never touch or rub the sleeves with your finger. Again I was never explained why but I assume it was bc small metal shavings..
love your video its geat! I am hoping to get your opinion on something. I have a chevy 350 that I want to freshen up without machining. I specifically want to replace the main and rod bearings to increase engine longevity. So regarding the rod bearings, can I just replace them, do the clearance checks, and retorque them without having to change the rod bolts/nuts? Its just a stock, average HP late 70' engine that is just a daily driver. Thoughts on this?
so i just started watching the video and I have never rebuilt an engine before so please excuse my ignorance , how did you determine the bearings for the crank and pistons, I have watched a few videos on this subject and I dont understand how to find the size if you are starting from scratch
You're pushing your luck not dinging that crankshaft journal you should put rubber hose on the rod bolts or summit racing has the ride bolt protectors as you put in the piston and otherwise you're doing a good job
I am re-ringing a 350 that has been bored 40 over. I ordered rings for a 40 over block. The bores measure 4.0415. The rings came in, and already they have a .025 to .027 end gap. Is this acceptable? This is naturally aspirated for street only.
After you check the first rod cap with the plastigauge, do you pull it back back out so you can get assembly lube on the bearing before moving on to the next one @zhpgarage?
I agree with you cleaning the cylinder head threads but I disagree with you you should use attack and clean the threads up is not going to make it weaker there's no way and you want accurate torque sequence cast-iron is not very friendly with being exactly understand what I'm saying
I knew American products were absolute garbage, but the way ya gingerly handle these American steel parts only leads me to believe that this motor will die under 100,000 miles in the typical Big 3 fashion.
I’m not sure how American products being absolute garbage came up in this video in any sort of way, but these older engines weren’t engineered to go over 100,000 miles, hence why so many older cars got parked after only 5 or so years of driving on the original engine.
I have always retapped the threads on cylinder blocks for the cylinder heads never had any trouble you're talkin about it being weak if you retype the threads 30 years I've never heard that one never seen any trouble because of that need to go do your homework again
I'm buying a block with pistons for 75$ this video will become handy I've never built an engine in my life
Better check the block to make sure it's worth building
@@bentbarrelballistics6894how do you check
How's the build going
Yeah how’d that go?
@@nerdsofthefistprobably never happened
I'm going to have to take apart and rebuild a 350 for my gfs mom's 91 s10 soon so these vids will 100% come in handy
That’s what I have and am currently contemplating LS or SBC. I think I’m leaning toward SBC swap more but I know absolutely nothing about motors
Thank you SO MUCH for these videos! This is exactly what I’m looking for. The detailed explanations are so valuable for us beginners
You do it very much the same as me, everything must be clean, clean, clean !. A few things I now do, rather then use assemble lube on the piston skirts witch can't really get into the ring lands where you need good lubrication on first fire up, I use to submerge the pistons & clocked rings in a tray of 30 weight oil, witch does work well, however my machine shop told me nowdays they use WD40 spray and just spray the pistons & rings real heavy, then pop them in the bores. Then to stop any contact of the rod bolt threads coming in contact with the rod journals of the crank I use 2 pieces of 3/8s fuel line on the threads of the rod bolts to protect from damage to the crank or threads of the rod bolts . I also put a good shot of oil on the inside of the piston pin (both sides) and work the piston all around to lube the pin area, a common issue for SBC with press fit pins. Building my 67 Chevy fresh bored.030 over 327 in about a month with new everything & Molly rings.
Thanks guys. Just finished the bottom end of a 350. You guys do it detailed and practical.
Built my first 283 when I was 19 by myself good engine
Ahhh don't worry about the dirt! Its just its daily dose of vitamins and minerals
definitely gives me the confidence to do muy own… great step by step, can’t wait for part 3…!!! i already watched 2…
It certainly gives me great confidence to be able to do ‘your’ one too!
I can’t wait till part two, I’m about to watch it now.
Good that you mentioned not to put the plastic gauge next to the oil holes. I did that once and the gauge wasn’t even crushed.
That garage tho... Great content fellers.
absolutely love the gym equipment in background. shows you can do it anywhere
I think the guy on instagram doing it in his dorm room wins
Thank you, I appreciate teaching me what I need to know about it. And I look forward to the part 2, that comes after 1.
No worries, part 2 is already out on our channel.
Great vid covers a lot that reality tv does not have. your Son involved that's Bonus wish mine would be Addicted to HP sauce SBC
Getting ready to build one myself I never built one before
Finally getting ready to pull my 5.7 350 TBI from my 93 silverado . Want to make her a daily and upgraded performance too
Looking forward to watching this series.
Great knowledge transfer. Thanks.!
.30 over I love it already
Thanks y’all I was able to learn a lot from this video
Great job! Much appreciated. This will be my first time. You gave me some confidence!
I am from Suisse super video Thanks.
Awesome video guys
Great video guys, very well laid out.
Nicely done!!
Great camera work I love how he gets every detail! To me that’s like half of the video is letting us see exactly what he’s doing
Great video currently building one with my good friend and this has helped me out a lot!
Great video! Building my own engine is a goal of mine so I’m headed over to video 2. Lol 💪🏾💪🏾💪🏾
Lol good stuff. Number 3 will be coming very soon also.
Very helpful! Thank you so much
ILove the video Good work Guys thanks
Best video out there thanks guys.
Nicee. I want to build my 421 I think I can do it now lol
Nice video, doing something similar with my 350 GMC.
This video will help me as well to rebuild my own 350 engine with my rebuild kit thanks keep the videos coming also wanna know how to wire I have a 1977 c10 so if you got videos on that as well definitely will check it out 👍🏽
Very tight machine fit with main bearing caps you should take a bronze small little hammer and tap the Caps down then take the bolts and drawing down
Great stuff Man
Getting an 81 z28 this weekend, currently runs and drives but wish me luck, I have a habit of turning cars into not that😂
I have the same motor it makes 300 up naturally aspirated with a cam after market pistons and jegs heads
A 3/8” rubber fuel line on each rod bolt does wonders for safety when tapping the piston down.
That's what i was going to say. I liked to put the rubber fuel line on the bolts to keep from damaging the crankshaft. You should soak the pistons in motor oil before you install them as well.
Thank you
staggering the seal helps prevents leaks its just good practice to not have all the seams lined up
Do you show the cam bearings being put in? I don’t recall seeing that.
You answered all of my questions except that one. Great content. Thank you.
Badass build 🔥🤙🏾
Unless you are in -40 c you should not be using 0w20 5:30 in colder climates and 10:30+ in California climate or any hot weather
Super video!!
Subscribed thanks for the video man. what was the measurement at 9:30?
I didn’t check my bearings when building a 327 over the summer. And I reused cam bearings. Engine sounds great but has no oil pressure lol. Gonna sell it and build a 350 the right way this time.
So some sucker gets a poorly built motor👍👍
Can the pistons be installed reverse if they aren't flat top? Great video!
Negative
So when checking the clearance for the bearings, if you have a reading that's not desired, you would get different size bearings to fix it?
Yep 😅
Awesome content, i have a 2 bolt 350 in my 66 impala im looking to get some power out of. So far ive done, edelbrock performer intake, new exhaust, new 600 holley, new distributor, lunati voodoo 262/268 cam. Where to from here? It goes well but i always want more!
We're waiting for part 2🧐
We are too! Haha waiting on parts for it.
Its out
At the beginning of the video around 8:50 when you were getting the clearance for the crankshaft... What was leaving those marks on the crankshaft and the bearing caps? Was it being scratched? I thought scratches were harmful to those pieces. When you used the paper to find the measurement, what were you doing with that information? Because if its wrong you cant undo the scratches you made and try again?
That is a plastic gauge, it’s not scratching the bearings.
Hey brother I just seen your video sorry it's a little late but hey where do I get those cleaners cuz I like to clean all the holes in my block I just got a new '01 block also it's a four-bolt main and I want to get it all cleaned up all the threads are my all that stuff so if you can give me a little hint where I can get the all those cleaners at I appreciate it brother Good looking motor
The ones I have are from Snap On but other companies have them.
You should stamp each cap as you take them off you can make your own stamper nomadic order
Awsome video guys would this engine work on 84 oldsmobile cutlass Supreme
Great video
You guys off set that rear seal it will never leak. No need for the RTV or silicone on the rear main caps....
I know I’m late to the show but I’m going to start a build soon and I never have before. What other tools do I need except for basic tools
i’m buying 350 with no headers and transmission for 50$ this video will be come very handy
Hi Guys have a question. When i check end play do i do it with the rods out of block? And do i just snug the main caps down when smack with hammer?
Once the mains are torqued you need to spin it over once or twice tops and then take the caps off qnd read. Circle pattern also never heard of. Start in the middle and work your way out. Doing it in three steps. I haven't seen your method
Well, first time for everything
how do you know what oil to use once i’m done building my 350? i’m not sure what size bore i want to go with yet.
It doesn’t go by bore size it goes by tolerances on plastigauges Redon typically on crank bearing and rod bearing
What Howards Cam did you use? Part number?
Did you have the rotating assembly balanced or no? Still debating spending the money after changing pistons to flattops from dish. I know its preferred and a must for high rev high rpm builds but for a mild street build im debating skipping it this time around 🤔
No, the owner of this engine didn’t get it balanced. If you are planning on the engine running higher RPM’s it’s a good idea to get it balanced.
I would of torqued the caps down in increments. Also, I would of never touched the inside of the main and rod bearings. 🤷♂️
thats how i was taught
I was taught that as well but never could explain why. Also was told to never touch or rub the sleeves with your finger. Again I was never explained why but I assume it was bc small metal shavings..
@@connellfarm315 I’d assume the oil on your hands messes with motor oil
cam specs? thanks for the video
With regard to ring gap, you said "15 thou" but your on screen measurent is ".0015" or 1 and 1/2 thousandths.
At 18:36 time stamp
Is there a part 3 for the 350 sbc build? My life feels incomplete as of now. I’m awaiting part 3 please. 😂
A lot of other things got pushed in front of it, not sure when part 3 will be haha
@@ZHPGarage I have learned a lot from your videos and I appreciate it sir. I’ll stay tuned!
love your video its geat! I am hoping to get your opinion on something. I have a chevy 350 that I want to freshen up without machining. I specifically want to replace the main and rod bearings to increase engine longevity. So regarding the rod bearings, can I just replace them, do the clearance checks, and retorque them without having to change the rod bolts/nuts? Its just a stock, average HP late 70' engine that is just a daily driver. Thoughts on this?
Did u assembly lube the bottom of the 1st cylinder piston rod bearing? It cut out and I didnt see so just a question
so i just started watching the video and I have never rebuilt an engine before so please excuse my ignorance , how did you determine the bearings for the crank and pistons, I have watched a few videos on this subject and I dont understand how to find the size if you are starting from scratch
Isn't there a certain torque sequence you are suppose to follow?
Why you ain’t use no lubricant?
Just curious on the cost of the build including the block?
You're pushing your luck not dinging that crankshaft journal you should put rubber hose on the rod bolts or summit racing has the ride bolt protectors as you put in the piston and otherwise you're doing a good job
Can you list off all the parts for this build ?
I am re-ringing a 350 that has been bored 40 over. I ordered rings for a 40 over block. The bores measure 4.0415. The rings came in, and already they have a .025 to .027 end gap. Is this acceptable? This is naturally aspirated for street only.
Idk if anyone will see this but what do I do if my pistons don't have dot indicators? They only have valve dents on one side
Same process for 283 sbc?
Is it 65 ft lbs or 70? I have 2 bolt
After you check the first rod cap with the plastigauge, do you pull it back back out so you can get assembly lube on the bearing before moving on to the next one @zhpgarage?
what year was this block made?
We looked a while ago, can't 100% remember but we think it was an 80's block.
No part 2?
Coming very soon
Part 2 is out there
@@pumasisneros1 👍🏻
You sound alot like the wooded Beardsmen lol
Clevite bearings
Can you just not measure everything and simply run a thinner oil? (Like Ford does)
I guess you could, I personally wouldn’t.
Theres a reason why we are rebuilding a GM motor and not a Ford one
😂
14 minutes in I’m thinking use all new cap bolts
Is that the original engine from that c10?
It is
Where is part twoooo
It’s up on our channel
I agree with you cleaning the cylinder head threads but I disagree with you you should use attack and clean the threads up is not going to make it weaker there's no way and you want accurate torque sequence cast-iron is not very friendly with being exactly understand what I'm saying
Excuse me I meant to say you should use a tap to rethread the cylinder head threads it's not going to make the block weaker never heard of that
348" .30 over is 355".
😅
Excuse me NUMACATIC ORDER YOU CAN STAMP THE CAPS YOURSELF YOU CAN MAKE UP A STAMPER WITH A CHISEL
I just love the SBC-yours looks great! Check out my SBC on my channel with a few surprises!
Am I the only one having issues with the volume?
Dislike for not letting us hear the torque wrench clicks😩
Hahaha
Who in the hell torques the crank down like that. I cringed during this whole video
Thanks for watching
@@ZHPGarage 😆
The prickly route cumulatively delay because cry implicitly fix into a swift weight. lewd, assorted wood
My thoughts exactly
The combative port historically interrupt because badge connolly place regarding a known organ. shrill, bright vinyl
I knew American products were absolute garbage, but the way ya gingerly handle these American steel parts only leads me to believe that this motor will die under 100,000 miles in the typical Big 3 fashion.
I’m not sure how American products being absolute garbage came up in this video in any sort of way, but these older engines weren’t engineered to go over 100,000 miles, hence why so many older cars got parked after only 5 or so years of driving on the original engine.
@@ZHPGarage True that. My 1999 Accord is 325K miles and running strong as ever, pretty sure it will out live me.
I have always retapped the threads on cylinder blocks for the cylinder heads never had any trouble you're talkin about it being weak if you retype the threads 30 years I've never heard that one never seen any trouble because of that need to go do your homework again