Budget 454 home rebuild with no machine work cheap
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 8 พ.ค. 2021
- This is the first video of me assembling my 454 big block Chevy to go into my 1990 BMW 325i that will eventually be twin turbo 4l80e swapped
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😊
@@MarkAnderson-bq3mu😊😊1
Love
Question did those scratches make the cylinder lose compression?
“Good enough for the girls I hangout with” quote of the year I love you man 😂😂😂😂😂💪🏾🤌🏾🤌🏾
Hi. Building motors for fifty years, and I can't count how many "home brews" I've built in a similar manner. Never had any problems with them. There are a few things I do differently, some added steps, but you did great. Thanks for taking the time to show some of the "young guns" how they can save a few bucks.
Thank you I appreciate it
I'm an old buck. Gonna try a rebuild on my 2001 Honda Accord..., if the thing ever breaks down anyway. 257K and it runs like the day I bought it. Oil change every 3-5 K for 20 years. Might outlast me!
@@Sleeperdude the lower bolts, make sure they are not stretch to torque bolts, because if they are you shouldn't reuse them
@@odeball22
Depends on the year of the engine if it's pre 1985, I wouldn't have a problem reusing them after 85 I would definitely check . With the new rods, I wouldn't worry about them most after market stuff use better bolts than the factory. I don't know why they use the Torque to yields in the first place. A waste of steel
@@bertgrau3934 Almost all motors use torque to yield and that because they are better not worse.
I'm just starting a 454 rebuild myself. While I have built and rebuilt engines before, I usually had someone with more experience nearby to talk to. That man died two years ago... (it was my dad, and he'd been looking forward to doing this build with me. He left me his entire shop full of tools though, so I at least get to use those) so I'm sorta on my own this time. Watching you do this has helped me ask the right questions on the net, and get the answers I need.
Thanks for this. It helped.
David Freiburger and Steve Dulcich would be proud. For a low buck build,I think you done a great job. Sometimes a fellow just dont have tons of money to do an engine. I'd run it and twist it to 6500 rpm in a heartbeat!
Thanks
Except this motor actually runs
@@Sleeperdude she'll be fine bud, let it break in properly and vary the rpm and load so the rings break in. Dump the oil and let er buck
Dulcich rules, Freilburger ruined HRM. Good job on the motor dude.
Brother I spent weeks teaching myself how to rebuilt my 350 tbi motor in my 1991 k1500. I had to do just like you and do it all at home and didnt have any special tools to get it done. Watching you I see a few things that I should have done differently but so far I been driving it for 3 weeks now and no issues yet! degreaser scotch bright pads and long wire brushes were my best friends for several days lol. I love knowing that I am not the only person doing shit on a non budget and pulling it off. Keep up the great content. I am definitely a new subscriber. Thank you for posting this!
That’s awesome thank you for watching
How did you learnt it by yourself? Is there any channel which teach it in detail?
@@sandramejalli1788 Clymer, Chilton's and/or Haynes repair manuals are quite good, as are factory service manuals.
I just paid off debt, flat broke, blew my motor on my 89 k2500 driving to work last week. Doing the same budget rebuilding.
Is it still running??
YOU bring me back to my late 60 and 70s we built all of our motors this way I spent more time under them old cars than I'd in them 😆
That’s funny
I agree with that
Watching you with your kid in there takes me back to when I was a kid watching my dad build his 396 in the back yard with the same type of tools great memories
You say you arent a professional but this video's quality speaks for itself. Great job and I learned a lot.
Thank you I appreciate it
Years ago I built a 454 in my driveway with no machine work doing just what he did. My block was in much better shape.
A set of 427 closed chamber heads and a Crane Hi-Energy cam and new rings,bearings and gaskets.
It ran great and didn't smoke.
i hope mine does to
@@Sleeperdude send link for parts
Those closed chamber 427 heads are good stuff. I believe the "215" castings are the best ones. Incidentally, a guy was selling a set of them for a few hundred bucks a few months ago on Craigslist but I was too busy to get out to his place to look at them. Feel like I missed out.
That's good! Hopfully it didn't drink either? Drinking is okay but smoking and drinking is never good
@@trxtech3010 only gas😂😂
Wow, that was awesome! This has to be the most thorough at-home engine build on TH-cam...lots of awesome info!
You do see why it's a million views right, thanks for the prep work. Outstanding!!
I rebuilt my slant 6 in the backyard in 1982 with a Hanes manual and the same torque wrench. It worked just fine!
Awesome
I did this same procedure, we called it a “redneck rebuild”. The one I did was an Old’s 455. That was in 1995, and yes it’s still running perfectly.
A couple helpful hints for ya. The honing operation should be pushed up and down rapidly so you get a cross hatch pattern. When filing the rings it is better to mount the file in the vice and push the ring to get your proper gap. That way you can control the squareness of the gap. When trying to set the end gap of the oil control rings, stack 4 or 8 rings together and they wont twist on you. holding them together you can open the gap if necessary. Check again your connecting rods. When installed the numbers of the rod should be on the bottom.
Ok thank you for that
Also, if I’m not mistaken, when using molly rings the cylinder finish needs to be more “shiny” I guess you could say, for better sealing. The rough crosshatch is mainly for cast or steel rings. The Molly rings on a rough crosshatch won’t seal properly.
Did it run and smoke?
i just bought a 77 454, once i start building it I'm definitely following this video.
Great job! I was doing low budget ring jobs on old Fords and Chevys way back in 1955 and never had a job come back on me. People back then could not afford to spend more than $100 on an engine rebuild. 😊😊😊❤❤❤
Awesome video brother that's how we did it back in the day because we didn't have the money and still don't have it to do what all these other guys do and they ran fine I never blew one up won a lot more races than I lost turning my engines seven grand all day long thank you for sharing this with us
That’s awesome thank you
Hell yeah 😀👍👍
Man that was cool watching you built this motor man. I helped my best friend out a lot in his garage at his house. This is funny man! My best friend rebuilt engines in his garage barefooted 👣 & you do yours in flip flops in your garage. You are definitely right those walls are clean when your feet look the way they did. That was cool man. The engine should run real good when you put it in the car. That was awesome seeing your son helping you work on the motor as well.
Thank you
I did the same thing in my 64 Buick Wildcat in 74. Put 93k miles on it. Lots of fun.
Good job man. One thing I would do when building an engine is to wear foot protection, ie steel toe boots. Back in 2010 when building a 540 engine I turned the engine around on the engine stand to get to the bottom end and I had forgotten that the intake manifold was not bolted down...it fell on my left big toe and basically shattered it. Took like 30 stitches. Never been the same since. Also they do make an installation tool for the spiral locks that makes it 10x easier to install.
Ok thanks
Yes, I forgot one day...ouch
Can’t stand to watch some one lose a toe or foot
Be safer son
This is about the most important idea I’ve ever heard I wore no shoes at eight motor builds wore tennis shoes mostly steel toes are for loggers I even have a pair of Carolina loggers logging boots with steel toes however my brain would never even think of dragging them to put together car engines it’s a brilliant proposal.
Hell yeah this is going to be a sweet ride when done. Definitely going to need aluminum heads to get some weight off the nose.
I built more engines like this for close to 50 years, never a problem. Just use good parts and check all clearances. Tide works wonders for cleaning blocks. Toilet paper and Trans fluid for wiping down cylinders. Wipe until theres no more gray on the paper.
Ok thanks for the advice
Always grind the flash and edges off the block. Every edge that is soft or sharp and I mean by soft id that casting flash that is blocking the oil drain definitely has to go. Doing all the oil returns are a great thing because it frees up the oil drainage because it doesn't have to build up to pore over the edge before it goes down and then it will leave puddles around the drains if you don't clean them up. You know and I hope you have a great morning.
Good tip!
Finally someone who uses a three prong hone that will straighten the taper of the bore and not a ball hone that just follows the taper!
More tips. If you don't pull those front lifter galley plugs you just left a ton of crap in the lifter oil passages. Hopefully you pulled all oil plugs and used a long nylon brush to chase the oil passages.
You've definitely built an engine or two, eh? Most people wouldn't know that or consider it, but great little tip.
I build marine race engines, and I love watching the backyard builds to remember how I started (and because I enjoy seeing the guys' various ideas, processes, and problem solving solutions).
@@strikeforcek9149 I just find some of these vids entertaining to watch. Don't know why really. I literally work in an engine machine shop and have never bothered with a backyard build. In all honesty, I have fixed hundreds of engines that have been worked on like this and when I watch these videos I see exactly why some of the engines that show up look the way they do. But I don't come here to nag, bash or nit-pik on their projects. I'm here to watch. There's too many negitive comments on some of these vids anyways. Besides, most these dudes are having a great time, often hangin with their kids and/or buddies. I do come across some really entertaining comments though lol. That's prolly mostly why I watch these now that I mention it. Find some good conversation now and then also. Sometimes, they just motivate me to go to work. I don't sleep well and sometimes I'll waste away on youtube and find a vid that somehow inspires me and just like that I'll het up and go to work in the middle of the night. That prolly won't happen tonight though lol. I'mma just sit here, watch vids and look at the time occasionaly
@Engines and Machines Hell yeah man, that's awesome. I'm the same, haha.
I often am just watching the videos, wasting away time, and occasionally looking at the time thinking "damn... im only going to have 5hrs of sleep now, but I can't sleep until I see the end of this video!" Lol
Oven cleaner works well for cleaning parts. Molybdenum grease for hard parts(cam lobes,lifters,push rods,valve stems,rocker arms,etc Regular STP for bearings,and diesel oil ,which has lots of wear additives like break in oil,but much cheaper. Which can be run all the time ,for longevity. I use this because of cost of production. The cheapest I've found, and works very well.
Ok great thank you
yeah just make sure those parts you use the oven cleaner on aren't aluminum because most will nuke them
Awesome build and you have inspired me, great job on that thing. This is what i am doing to my 355;
= 375.5 c.i. with the same rod ratio as the stock 350. Offset ground stock, nodular, or iron crank 3.66" stroke with 327 journals or smaller , 4.O4O" bore, 6.OO" rods with 327 or smaller 2" journals, 1.195" forged reverse dome with valve reliefs pistons for an undecked 9.025" block and 1.170" for decked 9" block. This makes pistons flush and takes the heat out of the top ring lands of pistons. 10.5:01 target static compression, chambers and pistons are finish cc'd to specification requirements and smoothed all sharp edging, XR288HR10 hydraulic roller cam. Now add (213cc runner ported) assault racing aluminum heads and edelbrock rpm intake. you can use 10:1 with XR276HR10, or 10.25:1 with XR282HR10. This engine is a daily driver build where you can rev like a 350 and your cylinder walls shall last like a 350's instead of a 383's with short rods. You can use this same crank and rod and piston hieght (not bore size) in a 400 small block that measures up the deck 4 corner deck measurement for building a 397 with a 4.155" bore..For this 376 c.i. build = Fat power everywhere just like a 383. just 7 cubes smaller. also makes a good torquey engine for even milder builds. Say a 270H10 comp magnum cam and Performer EPS with iron eagle or stockish heads 376 cubes gives it a little boost and torque hump over the 355
That should be fun
Dennis... you sound like an insane person rattling off those specs 🤣 love ya work 😊
@@ReinventingTheSteve i love blueprinting engine 🙂
Great video on this. I have built a LOT of engines in my lifetime and this one brought back fond memories of my big block 396 in my 1969 El Camino. It's been about 30 years now since I did that one. I can't wait to see the rest of the build and the 1st fire up!
I am working on finishing up the build now
Is the el Camino still running?
Showing the oil passages was pretty cool, I guess I know how it works but have never seen it in action with water. Great video, new subscriber.
Thank you I appreciate it
I had a low compression smogger motor with a rectangular port intake, a 3 angle valve job and lunati cam that was fairly mild. In my '69 Chevelle I managed a 13.2 et. Loads of fun on the street.
That’s cool
You have inspired me to do my own rebuild on my 5.3 when time comes.
Awesome
Great build ! I built a low compression Peanut Port 454 Big Block that I am extremely happy with .
Same craftsman beam style torque wrench I’ve been using for many many years, good luck on the build and nice choice on the piston rod combo you should have a nice stout bottom end.
I have used that thing for 15 years. Thanks for watching
Pretty good video next time run the stone faster up and down the bore to get a little bit better crosshatch ! Also may want to run a brake cylinder stone through the lifter bores real quick👍🏻
Ok thanks
Great job with your lighting and showing the scratches.
Thanks man
"If your a person, you'll say some words." I chuckled at that line. 😅
You can get away with murder on old iron if you keep it clean, which you absolutely did. It'll run just fine!
Thanks
This was for the most part my Plan B. My Lincoln engine was in need of a rebuild, so I stripped it down to prepare for that. I was expecting the auto shop at the Army base near me to help out with honing out of the cylinders, but it turned out that they were not able to do it. They could handle boring out and honing perpendicular cylinders, but my engine's cylinders are offset by 10º to the head deck (kind of like the Chevrolet 409 block, but this one being a Ford block), forcing me to rely on a machine shop in another town to do that job...IF they could. That shop told me they could, so right now I'm still going with Plan A. Part of me is still kind of wishing Plan B were used, because the waiting is the worst part. I have to wait on that shop to finish the work I want, and hope they don't call me with any more "surprises."
Yeah I hate dealing with machine shops
@@Sleeperdude Now I know why. I just have to keep telling myself, this is not likely to be repeated, so just stick it out. It has to end eventually.
That's the idealistic, optimistic side of me saying that, to try and keep my cool.
Great video. This is the video that made me subscribe to your channel and I’ve watched them all to date and some older ones!
That’s awesome thank you
I might be old fashioned but every new car I buy I always add STP to my oil it has never failed me. Good for a motor with a few markets in the cylinders.
STP works just as well if you pour it out on the asphalt after you buy it
When holding a cylinder stones will actually make the bore bigger if you Dingle ball it it actually just breaks the glaze you could use a combination of both stones to Dingle balls I recommend using knocker rust loosening fluid it's more like honing oil much better finish.
Ok thank you
Hay looks pretty good.
One thing to keep in mind is that you hone for a decent ring brake in . Thats it ,if you go chasing scratches you are just making the bore bigger.
Ok thank you
I see my bad you just want a pretty paint job wash the bores and you will have a long lasting job with a lot less wear I'm out you have piss me off enough
Really enjoyed video. Back in the day I built a lot of small block Chevy motors while racing sprint cars. Again Really enjoyed the video , I subscribed to channel.
Cool, good demo and explaining all the process.
Thank you
Easyoff over cleaner my friend you will be amazed hands down
👍
this guys cool and awsome period. awsome cant say enough loved the vid keep em comin'
Thank you
I really enjoyed this and I subbed ...you just popped up in my feed today outa nowhere
use a ball hone if you have never used a hone you can cut to much or even get it cut crooked ball hone is and the grinding all the edges and smoothing all the oil returns if the block is going to crack it almost always starts where the edge has alot of flashing or rough spots always deburr the block and open and smooth the oil ports you also use a special hone for molly rings if you do it right but this guy is better than most some never check any specs they just buy parts and assemble fine for a stock motor but when you start getting into performance all steps are a must
Just blows my mind how you taught yourself all this . Literally a genius
Thank you I learned a lot from reading old car magazines
Reminds me of the engine rebuilds I did when I was young with rebuild kits from J.C. Whitney 👍😁
That’s funny
Good old jc gipme
@@Obshowersyndicate 👍 yep
@John S me either, I miss those days 😁
I LIKE that bristle disk tool!!!
One step that I would like to see you add is an overnight soak of the coolant passages in Evap-o-rust.
Superb job !! We love your videos !! Shared !!
Thank you
My uncle is an ACE mechanic and he would say - throw a kit in it ! What I learned was you can get oversized bearings to compensate for normal wear with no machine work needed - plus the big question , “ how much are you going to drive it ? “
Makes sense
Yea he is putting 1 thousandths over sized bearings in the 454 he keeps saying under for sum reason. But you go over size on the bearings and undersized on the crank when it’s cut down.
Why you working outside do the work inside and know what you are doing is the best thing ever for your rebuild new cams crankshaft every thing possible to make it last just do your research please 😊
i was down and out and needing a vehicle to get to work. i took a 360 out of a 1979 3/4 ton camper van that only had 58 thousand something miles on it, sat for 20+ years. anyways, i just honed the block and polished the crank, starting Friday after work, i put new rings and bearings and was driving my truck by mid-day Sunday, ready to go to work on Monday. of course i had help. buddy of mine did the heads for free, cuz i was going to put them right back on.. lol
Did it like this 50 years ago, used a ball hone. Checked ring end clearance, however did have block cleaned.
Ok cool
Only change I would recommend is taking a straight edge and a feeler gauge on the block and making sure that you won't have too much of a problem when you go to put the heads back on.
Ok thanks
Expand the spirol locks so they look like a coil spring about a half inch long. Makes them easy peasy to roll into place.
Ok thank you
Thank you so much. I learned a lot
I did my motor this way at home power washed it. Clr sat overnight in the coolant passages in the block and the heads. I wiped each cylinder with a lint-free tow while using the xylene after honing each cylinder. Tomorrow will Mark 6 years running strong. I used a 160 grit jump all the way to I want to say it was 4:40 or 420. The other mistake people make is they don't clean the stones in between. When you do so it makes for a nice finish
That’s great thanks
Take a 2X4 and a sludge hammer.
TAP.. the crank fwd and back...recheck end play.
Main bearings will now be seated.
Ok thank you
I always had lifter tick when I started my engine when I overhauled. My 454 GM. Had a technical bulletin on lifter tick it said drill a tiny hole in oil galley behind timing chain what caused the tick was air pocket at start up I have never had another. Lifter tick since check into that when you go back together
Ok thank you
When you rebuild/boil block,heads,intake manifold if it's all cast iron. Love cast iron because it doesn't warp like aluminum. Then prep same for the rebuild assembly. Boiling gets all the crude off & makes YOUR job easier & faster. Also, cast iron engines sound absolutely perfect. P.S. Always make sure your NEW parts are Made in U.S.A & (nothing that says distributed by) on the boxes. That means that parts are contracted out to who knows where. Another thing: Guys, never rebuild an engine in flip flops. You're just begging for a broken foot. Leather boots with steel toes. Been there & done that. It's painful & sets you back 10 weeks.
so far this year i have got 4 crate set ups for free from 6,000 miles to 58,000 on them . the engine has heavy rods, pushrods, steel crank high flow heads rated at 450 hp at 485 torque with a 02xx 400 r turbo good to 800 hp and the engine does have a 4 inch stroke instead of the stander 4 1/4 inch stroke . a good hint is use diesel in the ports to clean them out does a real good job then wash it with dish soap the soap with wash the diesel out of the ports then rinse it with pressure . u can put plugs in the port hole to get more pressure through the port . this is stuff that old man bell told me to do on my first rebuild at home at age 14 on a 283 that is when i learned a lot about engine then leaned the most at age 17 on a pro built 327 that bell built and designed i just helped and learned he explained every step and y we need to do the things we did to the engine . he said he did everything u could to a sbc even seasoned the block and polished the inside of it . the engine pushed just over 1200 hp on pump gas no nitro . we used a lot of titanium in the build just the rods where 4200 for the set running 13.5 to 1 on compression which bell said that is the most u can do on pump gas . i have had it up to 15,000 rpms many times been running for over 20 years i retired it when old man bell died
wow thats crazy
I've built a few sbc and a loose motor is a happy motor. Within reason of course but most race engines have looser clearances. Keep up the good work dude you don't need to spend thousands at the machine shop if you start with something halfway decent 👍
Thank you I agree
It's not even "half way" decent!!
Gotta love pre spun bearings
Built many like that, replaced piston and rod kit, new rings,cam lifters no problems.
👍
Always remove cam oil galley bolts and freeze plugs.dingle ball cross hatch. Tighten mains and cam bearing caps in sequence.heads and intake sequence.
iam realy enjoying this build mate nice work your knowledge is awesome
Thank you
You need to run a dingle ball hone after you are done with the using the Flat Rock hone to put a good cross hatch in the cylinders will help the Rings seat better and faster
Ok thanks
Tony's garage just put out a video very anti dingle ball, give it a look.
He's good enough. Plain cast rings will break in even if you run sandpaper up and down a cylinder with your hand.
Keep making passes. It's looking good. Don't stop . You got it coming out nice
Thank you
I did a Oldsmobile 350 the same way had the crank polish and and valve job on the factory heads. It ran for 15 years drag race it every Friday night for about 6 years the car got total pull it sold it to my buddy and it still going no smoke no oil burning
Awesome
👍 brillant, real world engine building, good luck to you sir !
Thank you
The comedic value of this is priceless! So much material 🤣👍🏻
I’m glad you liked it
An great handmade rebuild of the engine, but what I have seen, the dog was helping you!
Hey, I forgot to ask. Were your feet clean when you started the honing process? Kinda wish you had provided a baseline for that.
Yeah they were actually dirty from the last engine I had honed several months ago
One trick I use is ; when using a drill driven cylinder hone, you can also add some light grit valve lapping compound in with your hone oil. When I say hone I mean your cylinder de-Glazer. Just check very often. Alot of what looks like rust is just staining.
Ok thank you
Stupid messy trick.
Great video!! I did my cylinders the same exact way,I kept hitting the bottom of the block and messed up my hone. I don't have a good cross hatch, but figured the cast rings would seat good. I also staggered my piston rings wherever, and got told I'll regret that, not so sure why when the rings move in the cylinders ..
Most ring sets come with a diagram on assembly orientation. Maybe a cast set doesn't, buy I don't recall last time using a cast set.
Maybe a ball hone next time?
Good job on the King bearings they are the best!
Thank you
“That’s good enough for the girls I hang out with” 😂😂 Great video man!
Thank you
Lol this part made me laugh too
Good job. Next time go at it with a faster speed and slower drill speed. You need a cross hatch. Also before you torque the mains. Seat the thrust bearing
Ok thanks
Plain cast rings will break in to anything. Cross hatch in any direction and angle.
1¹9
Buddy this was not only pretty good but entertaining.
I bought that piston installer too. Didn’t like it but it worked lol
You can tell he is a master builder by the mismatched flip flops
That’s a fact
You can go to harbor freight. Buy yourself a good file flat file. Lay it down over those cylinders and just move it smoothly and you'll get yourself a thousands or so off the top of them heads so they can sit down smooth and tight. I did. It works great
Ok thank you
Dingle ball hones are the way to go, no comparison with ease and the job they do
I see you found a good use for the BMW, a parts tray !!
Another tip. Anytime you hone you need to pull the cam bearings otherwise you'll leave grit in the backside of the bearing. You can't just wash them out while installed. .
Dont bother with good advice here, anyone can loosen and tighten a nut. The it works fine guys qont ever understand why there so simple
Cam bearing is in the middle of the block. How wud Honing cylinders get debris in the middle of the block?
Uhhhhh please explain how honing gets debris into the oil gallery....
Cause it sounds like you don't know what you're talking about. I've built several GM SBC and LSSB engines now and I've never had the issue you claim. ;)
So yeah, please explain it for everyone...
I see so many mechanics throw away reusable parts because they're lazy. But I do question that one valve just a little.
Old school! We’d rebuild engines like that in our front yard
Its good to see ppl just building them best they can you dont need a lab or clean room to make decent power and have a helva time.
Awesome thank you
LMAO @ moment you oiled the top of piston and realized it!
I’m glad you liked it
Nice job! But no more videos of the build? That's too bad. Inquiring minds want to know how it turns out.
I am going to finish it and put it in a car the parts are just expensive so I have been waiting
@@Sleeperdude I can understand that. Nice wrenching. It's always cool seeing an "Everyday man" doing these builds, and not just the guys with all the tools, dynos, and big shops. Good content.
@@bigjohnson7415 thank you
I enjoyed the heck out of that video! Subscribed!
Thank you
Poor man has poor man ways...great job....rock on bro.
Thank you
Don Not Overlook the importance of compression braking during at least the first 50 miles or more. To seat correctly, the rings need compression on top of them as well as during acceleration. Coast it down hill in gear and this will help seat the rings better.
Ok thank you will do
looks like a blue merle Australian shepherd at about 14 and one half min.
Yep you are right she is in a lot of my newer videos
Honestly, I really think you are onto something with your new fountain. It would make a find bird bath with a little work.
🤣
Good morning to you and have a great day.
You too
@@Sleeperdude Good morning and thank you