Small Block Chevy Build Stage 1: Reliable Power Under $4,000 - Engine Power S3, E1
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 27 มิ.ย. 2019
- On this episode of Engine Power, the team starts on the first of a 3 stage build of the durable small block Chevy. A back to basics 355-inch powerplant that makes great, reliable power for under 4000 bucks.
Doug's Headers: Headers, Tri-Y, Steel, Ceramic Coated, Chevy, GMC, Car, Pickup, 283-400, V8, Pair
More Info: pntv.us/pn_pt_11930
E3 Spark Plugs: Spark Plug, E3, Tapered Seat, 14mm Thread, .440 in. Reach, Projected Tip, Resistor, Each
More Info: pntv.us/pn_pt_11929
Holley: Carburetor, Street HP, 4150, 4-Barrel, 650 cfm, Double Pumper, Mechanical Secondary, Universal, Each
More Info: pntv.us/pn_pt_11928
Mr. Gasket: Fuel Pump Electric
More Info: pntv.us/pn_pt_11933
Pertronix: Distributor, Flame-Thrower, Magnetic Pickup, Vacuum Advance, Black Cap, Chevy, Big/Small Block, Each
More Info: pntv.us/pn_pt_11926
Pertronix: Spark Plug Wires, Flame-Thrower, Spiral Core, 8mm, Black, 90 Degree Boots, GM, Small Block, V8, Set
More Info: pntv.us/pn_pt_11927
Proform Parts ( Specialty Auto Parts U.S.A., Inc.): Rocker Arms, Stud Mount, Full Roller, Aluminum, 1.6 Ratio, Fits 3/8 in. Stud, Chevy, Small Block, Set of 16
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Quick Fuel Technology Inc.: Carburetor, Black Diamond Q-Series, 750 cfm, Mechanical Secondary, 4-Barrel, Square Bore, Drag Race, Each
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Royal Purple: Coolant Additive, Treats 20 Quarts, 12 oz., Each
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Summit Racing: Cam and Lifters, Hydraulic Flat Tappet, Advertised Duration 274/274, Lift .450/.450, Chevy, Small Block, Kit
More Info: pntv.us/pn_pt_11921
Summit Racing: Cylinder Heads, Aluminum, Assembled, 62cc Chamber, 170cc Intake Runner, Chevy 1987-95, 5.7L, Pair
More Info: pntv.us/pn_pt_11920
Summit Racing: Engine Block, Cast Iron, 4-Bolt Mains, 4.030 in. Bore, Clearanced, 1-Piece Rear Seal, Chevy, Small Block, Each
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Summit Racing: Harmonic Balancer, SFI, Internal Balance, Steel, Clearcoated, Chevy, Small Block, Each
More Info: pntv.us/pn_pt_11925
Summit Racing: Combo, Oil Pan, Black Zinc, Pickup, High-Volume Pump, Shaft, Tray, Scraper, Gaskets, Chevy, Small Block, Kit
More Info: pntv.us/pn_pt_11922
Summit Racing: Summit Racing Chevy 350 engine kit Pro Pack, Engine Rebuild, Cast, Flat, 4.030 in. Bore, Std. Rod, Std. Main, Chevy, 350,Stage II connecting rods with ARP 2000 cap screws, high volume oil pump with stock pickup, double roller timing set, brass freeze plugs, sealants and rod bolt boots.
More Info: pntv.us/pn_pt_11918
Summit Racing: Valve Covers, Stock Height, Centerbolt Mounting, Steel, Black Powdercoated, Chevy, 5.0L, 5.7L, Pair
More Info: pntv.us/pn_pt_11924
Goodson Shop Supplies: Gas-Fired Rod Heater, Propane,Ceramic lined, enclosed heating area, One knob control, Includes regulator and hose assembly
The Industrial Depot: Fasteners, Hardware, and Shop Supplies - ยานยนต์และพาหนะ
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PowerNation where can I buy a block like the one you’re building now? You said it was $ 700
Do a 350 or 454 TBI build
No thanks you don't need a subscription when 25% of your videos are ads and sponsors.
I got a 350 that turned out to be a 30 over 355 for free and after a basic rebuild with just bearings gaskets and rings...stock iron heads ported and polished and Edelbrock intake and carb and longtube headers I made 378.4 horsepower and only spent 150 for the parts to rebuild it and my time lol that’s a real budget build
Awesome brother. So what vehicle is the 355 in.
$4000 is my whole truck.
Same here x2
@DeevoxL bone, twig, pine needles. All of the above.
Budget is new rings bearings and cam shaft, lifters,oil pump ,gaskets 500 bucks
1/4 of that for my truck but i got my truck for a steal
its a 1975 ford f250 highboy 360 4speed banged up but not rusty at all for a 44 year old vermont truck
They only had that much in it because they didn't already have a good motor to mod. They bought everything brand new.
PowerNation ... I have watched the contents of this playlist so many times, and every time I end up learning something new. Thank you so much for sharing these videos with us! I have a 1980's vehicle (from my father) that I someday hope to properly restore, and thanks to the valuable information you've shared with me about SBC engines I have a very good idea how to accomplish this without rendering myself bankrupt. Thank you, thank you, thank you PowerNation ... I'm forever indebted to you!
a few episodes ago i remember reading comments that complained about the seemingly rediculous amount of money being put into the builds, and how a normal joe could never afford a build like that. good job on changing it up, trying to bring what is wanted to the table. aswell as improving the tech tip to showing another way to tune a carb. at least they are trying.
It’s very nice to see pros like you guys work at the same people who knows what they do have a lot fun!! That’s the goal thanks for the content God bless you all !! 😊
Just what I needed! I just installed an Edelbrock Performer carb on my 78 C25 and was looking for a good way to tune it, I'm more of an EFI guy. Saw this video and rewatched it, turns out it had exactly what I needed at the end for carb tuning! You guys always make such great videos! Keep up the good work!
This channel shows EXACTLY how much information I'm looking for, just as someone curious about how making an engine works. Thanks for the quality videos.
I see there’s another person here named after a character
Sorry but no it doesn't they leave out a lot engine masters with David Freiburger is way better
Also every product they plug on here are usually junk
That was some fancy silicone laying down, looked like welds.
1785 summit cam .. just installed the same one in my truck.. sounds good and a upgrade in performance .. i got vortec heads as well with stock springs
Hi guys, Just wanted to let you know I love this channel, so much knowledge you give is great. Thank you. As a viewer I would love to see you guys go to a bone yard and pick up engines and rebuild them to see how much horsepower you can get out of them. You might have already done it but I'm new to the channel. I think people would enjoy it. Just a thought. Thanks for your channel. Hollowpoint.🏁🏎️
0:46 Sweet baby Jesus that's a lot of pens! 😂
SHIRT POCKETS ARE LIFE
Out if àll the small block Chevy's built this particular series of builds are by far some of the best ones
With $4k im going to chevy performance and saving the trouble. Plus I'll have a warranty
That's a good idea but I like the pride of building my motor
@@Outlaw_Cleetus and he will only have 200 hp 😂
@@off-roadmotorsports5148 🤣🤣
Building a engine gives you room for ajusting everything for future upgrades or especific use, and more chevy performance engines have a lot of "loose power and weakneses a built engine doesnt have
You could buy it part by part rather than dropping 4k and you get no say where you cheap out
Pound feet. Lol ... In the old days it’s was called foot pounds. 👍 us good old boys, had to use a tree to pull an engine out. Didn’t have a shop to work in. An all the high Tech tools and gauges . I m glad to see improvements overall. Great video 😎
yup its always written pounds per foot and spoken foot pounds for me LoL :o) makes sense. some people do not realize that it is swapped around in writing because of the rules of english and scientific language influencing the direct meaning and not to be confused with other meanings from similar writings. you are right , we always knew we are!
380 lbs... not 380 feet...
That engine came together nicely!!
All that motor for that ancient trash cam. YOU HAD A ROLLER BLOCK.
For a 5500 rpm engine yeah maybe it just cost maybe 150-200 more. They should have did that.
That’s what I like about you it’s no bullshit and down to earth real dimensions I’ve use plastic gauge in the past to verify clearances and you tell it as it is
These guys teachin me so much I love Watchin this
Blue print engines sell a budget 350 cast iron head with 373 hp 400 ft torque for 2700 bucks free shipping and majority of them are putting down north of 373 on the dyno!! Now that is budget power that normal joe can stuff in his rig!
Used is best...Buddy got a vortec short block for $325 ....bitch looks like new inside...All he needs is a cam and heads...He can built his for under 2500$
@@bilbobaggins4710 - Vortec long block plus pistons/cam is 425 HP mild daily driver..
@@bilbobaggins4710 I've ripped out junkyard heads for my last TPI build, the vortec heads are fantastic when matched with a SD adapter manifold.
@@bilbobaggins4710 😂😂 bitch looks new on the inside lol im dying over here. It does look new.
@@LSxHunter whats an SD adapter manifold? serious question
I have a question for all of you engine builders out there. I always put the cam in before the crank so I can guide it through the cam bearings more easily and then add the lube to the lobes after it's installed. I never see any of these engine builders on TV or TH-cam doing that. They always install the crank first and then use a tool to try and install the cam without damaging the bearings. Am I alone in doing this? Is there a good reason I don't know about to install the crank before the cam? Nice to see an updated 350 small block build by the way with the current parts available.
I always try to do the cam first. Like you say so I can guide it in and also since occasionally the cam doesn't spin perfectly free. Like to go back after the whole rotating assembly is in and have to mess with the cam bearings? I can see mocking things up prior, but for the final assembly yes cam first for me. We all have our ways, but if I was speaking to newbies I would always teach them the safe ways of doing things. They can develop their preferences after that.
Of course the plastigage is accurate. It's been around as long as I can remember. Very long time!
On the flat topic cam I recommend spray on graphite. Or brushing on the break-in lubricant when you have excess buildup especially with heavy valve springs the lifter may not rotate also get a cheap cam don't cheap out on the lifters
Id be pleased with that. Very nice power and torque curves and would make a great, reliable and drivable road engine.
yeah with great hood clearnance you could paint it all up and disguise it to completely stock looking with some chrome or stainless headers would be awesome in a street daily driver camaro.
I use plastigauge weather I measured them or not, it's a good back up check to make sure your math is correct.
THANK YOU SO MUCH. A TOTALLYAWSOME BUILD!!!!
always use a hardened oil pump driveshaft, on the summit heads pull the valve tubes and use phosphor bronze valve tubes.
Who in the hell thought putting a single plane intake on an engine with 218@.050 was a good idea? That intake is killing that engine. A dual plane would boost those numbers, and more importantly seriously improve throttle response and drivability.
keith stoehr yeah like seriously
Like totally
And they didn't even come up with some excuse why they did that. It is not right for performance but I would never deny someone that liked the looks.
They use what they get free...
Muy bien saludos desde Honduras 👍👍👍🇭🇳 perfecto 👌
$1,100 was my whole car !
What I love about those motors was that you can put them in cars trucks boats tractors almost any thing
I built an almost identical version of this engine. A 357 ci Vortec headed engine. The main difference was I used a set of Iron heads from Odessa Racing Head Service. They are 2.02/1.60 with 7/16 screw in studs and the springs can handle up to .600 lift all for $800 total shipped to my house. I also used a Comp Cams 272/.502 roller cam and an Edelbrock Performer RPM intake. The result was 394 hp on 87 octane. I know everyone can’t afford a roller cam and lifters but they are superior to flat tappets if you can afford them. I would skip the Aluminum heads and go for the roller cam every time if it were me.👍 On a side note the Summit 600 cfm carburetor of mine tuned to the max VS the Dyno rooms Holley 650 HP was worth 26 HP. Yep I bought it and they ARE expensive because they work. Even so I only have about $3000 bucks in mine because I already had an Engine block and good crankshaft and rods.
Bone stock LS 5.3 with cam swap equals 400hp and you'll save 3000.
Of course put twin turbos on a ls and see who wins...ford fan boys are the biggest cry babies....😂😂😂
@@bigboreracing356 i play with them all...fords, chevy, dodge, imports but chevy will always come out on top and no im not bias towards any brand just from experience.
@@bigboreracing356 when us chevy boys loses we take it like a man and come back harder next time. Ford boy loses he's pulling out the dictionary and making all the excuse he can come up with.
Junkyard motor, though. You don’t know the history, was it maintained, was it abused, was the vehicle junked because the engine was so awful... That kind of gambling on reliability might be okay on a toy you play with on the drag strip. But if my engine grenades, that vehicle is my livelihood (tradesman, no truck, no job). For me a big end bearing failure won’t just cost me a 1000$ junkyard motor, it will cost me around 10k and possibly lose me my job during a time when finding new employment is difficult to impossible. If you are not considering the consequences of that bargain junker LS exploding, and these are not the only potential pitfalls, then think carefully before you take the chance.
Wow, really blue balled me with that dyno run
Most sheets of notebook or printer paper is. 003 to. 004 thick if you don't have a dial indicator to check thrust. I would recommend dial indicator tho.
That cam is a cute little fella. I’d have went with a bigger cam. If it has to be a hydraulic flat tappet then probably a Voodoo with slightly more duration and quite a bit more lift. A roller would have that thing screaming but the price would be higher. They’re doing a sales pitch for Summit’s in house brands. Nice little peppy street motor though.
Enjoy these videos, keepum comin
Shows price 3,999.99
*-ITS UNDER 4000!-*
Add labor and thats another 2000
4300 gets you a 496 stroker from blueprint engines out of the same summit catalog. That has 440hp and 560tq. I'll go that route instead.
I like the machined down socket to torque the cam gear bolts. Wonder why the didn't mention that.
I would have liked to have seen the results with the summit p/n SUM-1788 cam shaft, a Weiand street warrior and a Brawler 650. a little bit more lift and duration, a dual plane and a reasonable carb. I feel like stage 1 could have been 375hp 400lbs-ft for the same money, same idle vacuum. or not, but i'd like to see.
Piston ring gap is not effected by piston expansion, ring gap is to allow increase in length of the ring due to heat expansion.
Ya to allow for extra room when the piston expands
I LOVE THE SBC AND THE LS.
Shaggy became a mechanic, where's scooby?
That summit block actually is a good deal. Cost 500 to get one machined in my city.
4000 bucks I would want more then 350 hp. Could order a crate motor for that haha
That's basically what this is: Just a overpriced low powered crate. With a lot more work. If you are going to put the time and money into building it yourself i would want at least 400/400.
How long is that gonna stay together for 4k??
STREET RACER someone’s a little over confident 😂
STREET RACER valid point
@nutter I mean you could do it with Chinese heads hyoer pistons Arp everything else stock spin it to 6000 max yeah might cost 4k and make 400..maybe. Depends in compression and cam..oh shit thats past 4k 😆
4K? That’s crazy. I paid $150 for a shit block, had it bored .030”, aligned honed, new freeze plugs, new cam bearings and single rear main to 2 piece rear main for $850. I got a crower 3.50” stroke crank for $1200 and then scat 6” rods along with JE flat top forged pistons for another $400. I’m running cast iron 2.02/1.600 with some home porting and a tunnel ram with dual 600 Holleys. My cam is a Howard’s custom grind solid roller that was $350 and my engine made 540hp @7300
Dang man, you could have gotten a 3.65" crank from Summit cheaper with no machine work to the block for clearances.
lol, I love it "pound feet" when for the 60+ years I have been around "ft pounds" always worked just fine.
Technically, "LB-Feet" is correct. We've all been using Ft-Lbs forever, but it's incorrect
macsmotorcitygarage.com/foot-pounds-and-pound-feet-whats-the-difference/
Still out of most "blue collar Joe's" budget. My dad & I built a peppy little motor for my 74' Vette for around $1,500 & estimate around 350+ hp. Think it was a 307 bored out to 312ci or something weird. Had 11:1 compression & roller valve train. Nice lumpy cam that wasn't too crazy, it sounded amazing & was a blast to drive! Although it was severely limited from stock suspension & brakes along with an automatic. I can only imagine how badass it would have been with a proper suspension & a 5-speed manual 😍
Thank you for posting this video my question is in the time stop 5:54 you didn't explain what you put on the double roller timing something
14:40 ["Excellent for cheap."] I bought my GM Performance Parts ZZ4 crate engine for around $3,000 back in the day which made 355/410.
∆ what he said ∆
The prices have gone up quite a bit in the last 5 or so years.
I remember the price of the ZZ4 going up before they discontinued it but you can still get 375hp 350's from BluePrint, ATK and many others for $3k
Can you guys take a stock bore 350 and see what the HP gain is when bored .020 over, .030 over, and .040 over ... compare each to the stock bore HP and only change the bore size... nothing else. I haven't found anyone that has ever tested this and shared the results. Thanks! Keep the great vids coming!
That minor amount does about zilch affecting combustion chamber dynamics or anything else. So the only thing it does is add a few cubic inches. If you have about 1 HP per cubic inch you can expect about 3 more HP if you bore .030 which adds about 3 cubic inches. A 350 chevy piston is 4" and your fingernails are about .020 thick. That little bit of size increase makes little difference. It is mostly all about remachining the piston bores perfectly round not to add size.
The past, days I know of, where when there was a such thing as major overboring being possible without special high dollar blocks. Production engines went to thinwall blocks in the 60's and large overboring is not viable with most of them.
Little to No HP increase because the heads and cam flow the same amount of air/HP... but figure a lb.-ft. of torque increase for each 1 cubic inch displacement increase...
when doing the piston and ring install i wish u guys had covered ring installation and the best way to position the ring gaps (top and bottom)
There's a million videos out showing that just search it
I cant believe this, i built a 347 for my 4x4 jeep with a torque cam and 165 afr, weiand steath maniford, 650 hp carb, made 398 hp
Yeah this is pretty pathetic. All of that to just get to 1HP per CI? Wow.
I found you guys a couple of months ago, and glad I did as I race streetstock dirt cars!
Keeping this thing a 355 SBC, what in theory would happen of you were to order the eagle rods and Molly Pistons like you all put in the Dirt Devil 409, but matched them to the specs of this engines bore and stroke, and kept everything else the same?
What would the cost be brought up to? Do they make those pistons to fit the 355 SBC?
And what kind of HP and torque would be made?
Keep on making these great videos I study them about every night as I'm wanting to build my own racing engine!
Thank you in advanced!
Need to see a small journal 327 sbc!!!!
ARE YOU GUYS STILL MAKING SHOWS, I THINK I WATCHED ALL OF THEM, NEED MORE
I enjoyed this video. That said this is why it's hard to justify not going to an LS. Does those numbers from the junk yard. Cost me 218 for a long block with intake and torque converter. Then spend the same you'll make closer to 500. Turbo and you'll blow those numbers out the water.
I would really like to see a small block Chevy valve angle comparison. Such as an 18 degree vs 23 degree head comparison, there aren't many videos showing the true effects of valve angle and power along with drive-ability. PowerNation definitely has my favorite mix of performance engine and budget engine builds though.
The steeper degree is going to preform better since it will increase air velocity
This is a great option if you you plan to keep your car numbers matching
I love some 2016 videos haha
i love it. Next could you dyno some jegs heads with an EPS intake and an XR276HR10 or XR282HR10 cam with the same 10pt.25to1 static compression?
EPS intake is imo the best all around st dual plane. Good hood clearance and supports plenty of power.
If only they actually taught us how to do it like I wanna work on a motor I have but idk how
Go buy a chevy 350 from the junkyard & a Chilton's manual for it at your local parts store. Get a engine stand put it in your garage and start disassembling it by the manual, then reassemble. Keep doing that until you understand it.
THANK YOU, SUMMIT RACING!!!!!
Yeah, as soon as i saw aluminum heads i knew this budget was already way higher that any average joe, but seeing the hp, we built iron headed engines for the circle track for less than 2,000 that put out over 400 hp, our 406ci engines put out over 500 but they would have run you 3700
Yea I think I'd buy a tired ass ct 350 from a sportsman guy and freshen it up before I did this.
you can check front to back with feeler guages
Yes sir can't wait
You never pound Main caps down with a hammer the bearing can pop out use the bolts or studs with nuts to line up the cap in snug it down carefully.
Guys this show is from 2016 and prices have come down since then. Yes you can buy a crate cheaper, but doing it by yourself, or with a kid is much more rewarding.
Finally, someone that sees the big picture. At least you know exactly what's in the motor, and will be able to appreciate it!
You guys should do a budget build on a 4.6 PI motor of a mustang
PERFECT FOR ANY DAILY DRIVER.
I want to see that next dyno
Stage 2: New internals.
Stage 3: New block.
Is it the same engine?
I inherited my father’s splitting axe. It has been in continuous use by my family for over 200 years. In all that time we have only replaced the handle 9 times and the head once.
But you know what? It is still the axe of my great great grandfather, and high my family has used every day for over two centuries...
A feeler gage can be used to check the thrust clearance .
I noticed you mentioned the stock TBI engines came with only 200hp which is true, but you're not using TBI or a similar cam or it's horrendous heads. You basically just have its block and valve covers; is that even a comparison? Either way cool video. I love your channel!
WOW !!! What an infomercial !!! They re-use nothing... BUY everything!
I wanna see Mike on some civics , and Supras !
Is the socket @6:10 machined for a thinner wall to fit in tight spaces? It looks to have been put on a lathe.
I want y'all to build " The Battle of the Junk Yard Grudge Engines" Where some of these grudge racers run cheap junk yard engines until they blow up and get another one.
Either get a 96 Explorer Engine with a 302 with the GT40 heads or a 351W roller block using the GT40 instead of the E7.
Then get either a 5.0 or 5.7 Chevy Vortec head roller block.
Make sure that the cubic inches match one another. 302 vs 305 or 351W vs 350 Use a nitrous cam in it, stud the heads, MLS head gaskets, stud the heads, new rings and bearings, gap the rings , use a carburetor and intake.
11:48 min, The Weiand team G won the 1985 hot rod manifold shoot out for single plain intakes. The weiand 8004 won the dual plain shoot out, but this one was by a small margin.
No TFE paste on the head bolts going into the water jacket?
Made more power and torque than the low buck 5.3. LS has 15 degree head vs 23 degree for sbc. Also had a tad larger cam than this engine, and a hydraulic roller vs a flat tappet.
This is why the old sbc is still here. Especially those torque numbers. The sbc would have picked up even more with a better dual plane intake.
Ok look, i know that Im still young (17) but when people complain about this not being a budget build I always forget people don't have the assets I do. I grew up in a home where my dad collected a lot of old short blocks from when he worked at a dealership. (He doesn't tell all the stories behind it other than he just accumulated stuff) so when people say oh lord this is too expensive im thinking, I have a 350 block, steel crank, higher compression pistons and a set of vortec cylinder heads that were either given to me or I found for super cheap. I come here to learn random tid bits of info on engine building
I hope this video was meant as a prank and not to be taken serious. So many issues with this and this was absolutely not a budget build. I over the years built many 350 small blocks and my best one was a $1,500 complete rebuild. Wish i would had a dyno at the time it was built to test it. But it went into a 1 ton C 30 Chevy oilfield truck 4 speed. That engune had so much power even in 4th gear fully loaded you never had to shift on a hill. Here they didnt even elaborate on the pistons which in a 350 they are many types to choose giving what your requirements are for compression. In a 350 cu small blocks higher the compression the more efficient the fuel burn bumping up horsepower. Which was in turn easier on the wallet at the gas pump.i am confident the above mentioned rebuild i did in that truck was over 400 horsepower and on highway it got a whopping 23 miles to the gallon. Most efficient build i ever done the one downfall was it was hard on the starter due to the compressiom. It took alot of power to crank it over when starting up. I only wish i remembered what the compression was but that build was about 40 years ago now. That same build would be about $2,500 or less today's prices. But not everything was new just rebuilt. Picked up a used block had block and heads checked for cracks and new guides and valve seats. Intake was the one that was original on the block and reused the piston rods. The money saved from the used parts got the new high dome racing piston and racing cam and resurfacing heads. Now thats how you build a budget power plant.
Aw
Thought you had to break in a flat tappet cam? Why is there no mention of this?
If you're going to make a point of ring gaps, and point out the top ring gap was a little oversize but OK, you should also check the bottom ring to be sure it's a few .001s bigger. The top ring was oversize, but maybe the bottom ring isn't - resulting in 2nd ring gap being tighter than the top.
A lot of folks would like to see a Dyno test on Single plane vs dual plane intake Dyno test on a 408 Windsor with average horsepower and torque with a camshaft 0.050" duration in the 232-240 range with AFR 185, 195 and 205 head.
Cam an intake holding it back a ton
I use to use plasti gauge and never had a problem
Goatees all around.
If this build was with a flat tappet hydraulic lifter cam, why was there no mention of breaking in the cam? I like the info that is explained but some important things like the break-in procedure and using high zinc cam/lifter lubes was left out. This is where most failures happen if I'm not mistaken. If I am indeed incorrect please correct me so I can stop doing those procedures.
Show us what it can do on 87 octane, adjusted to not ping or detonate incorrectly.
PD Köester I know right! That thing with 10.2:1 compression will certainly have to be dialed back on 87 octane. It might even diesel upon shutdown when it’s good and hot.
Why on earth would anyone run 87 octane in a performance engine? If you can't afford good gas, you absolutely can't afford to build a good engine.
@@wvXvxvXvw not really a matter of affordability, just the principal of seeing if that is possible with that modest increase in compression, and power...
@@wvXvxvXvw I'm with you on this one brother!!!
Those #345 pistons have lower Compression Height than claimed... use proper Summit hypereutectic pistons for a lower price...
You got some head bolts that need sealant!!!
Engine sounds pretty
What’s the best place to get your measuring tools? Bore gauge ect.
Not a bad build, I wouldnt have spent money on alloy heads and roller rockers for an engine producing under 400 horse. Noticed that carb they used?
Piston insertion - dry vs lubed ? do you lube cylinder or rings with anything when stabbing the pistons ?
Absolutely lube them. You would never want to let anything that needs lube to run ever be dry.
The other way to press fit pistons to rods is with a hydraulic press which is how I always do it.
Regardless power output it's educational for some
Pretty good power considering
Copy of cranes old saturday nioght special cam? Durtion and lsa with a good dual plane, 650dp should roast the tires no problem.
More power than the zz4 GM roller engine