ไม่สามารถเล่นวิดีโอนี้
ขออภัยในความไม่สะดวก
6.7 Powerstroke-Egr Bolt breakage!!!
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 19 ส.ค. 2024
- Hey gents welcome to all. Hope everyone had a good week. This ol gal needed an egr cooler core but this happened. Ya win some, ya loose some thats just how it goes. Enjoy!
Make to sure to check out this link on how to repair this problem:
• 15 F550 - Busted EGR p...
I am the creator and owner of this material. It does not belong to; nor is affiliated with ANYONE, except for me, the owner and creator. Downloading is strictly forbidden. Contact me if you want my material, its that simple! The events, the characters & even the firms depicted in my photoplay are fictitious. Any similarity to actual events, persons living or dead or to that of actual entities are purely coincidental.
We no longer even try to remove those bolts the "regular" way - had way too many break off like you just showed in this video. We now just cut the heads off both of the bolts (allowing the removal of the entire EGR tube so it is no longer in the way) & then using a rosebud adapter on our torch really heat-up the exhaust manifold where the bolts go into and use either vicegrips or stud removal tool to then remove the remaining section of the bolts. We have not had one bolt break since we switched over to this method. We also run a bottoming tap to clean out the rust in those threads before we go reassemble everything back.
I can dig it! Sounds like a great idea
KCautodoctor what. Size bottoming tap do I need ? And what brand do u recommend
I like your idea. What about anti seize? Do you apply any? I have not had any break, but I haven't done enough yet to get an accurate sample size. I do use a small 3/8 drive impact to break them loose however.
Trevor Mangus if I had to guess, they are either M6 x 1.0 or M8 x 1.25
Germans are way ahead of the curve with the copper coating on the bolts 🤔
I used your technique and got both bolts out without breaking either! PBlaster for about 5 days prior. Thanks for taking the time to make these videos for us shade tree mechanics!
Glad it worked out for ya pal!!!!
Don’t think it would apply to the techs that have time constraints, but remember straight white vinegar DISSOLVES rust. So if you have some time to let it sit and soak, once there’s a gap under the bolt head, spray it with white vinegar to eat the rust.
Example: I have a f250 5.4 2 valve and needed to replace the exhaust manifold gaskets. Bolt heads were mostly fused to the manifold with rust and the bolt heads looked like they were part of the manifold. Started spraying them with vinegar twice a day and let sit. After a week, all of the bolt heads were completely visible and rust free. Broke them loose, sprayed top sides down in the gap, let sit for 24 hours, removed them and none of them broke. No rust on them when pulled either.
Fun fact: Take an old completely rusted tool/bolt, submerge it in a container of white vinegar, a couple hours later check it and you’ll see it bubbling (boiling). It’s the reaction of the vinegar dissolving the rust. With a little time, there will be zero rust on whatever’s in there!
Just something the old timers used and is forgotten about these days, but again…takes time if you have it. Good luck fellas!
🤯🤯🤯🤯🤯🤯🤯🤯
The permanent fix are the ARP 770-1003 bolts. They fit perfect and will never break. They'll also work for aftermarket intercooler piping kits bolting to the valve covers.
2011 6.7, 72k miles driving through Kansas when both bolts sheared off at 70MPH. Fortunately, I had just driven past a Ford dealership at 2:30 in the afternoon. I called them and got parts on order for the next day and third day was back on the road at 9:00 am. I'm just about to trade it in on a new 2023 F250.
this is why i love watching your videos. im planning on taking my egr off. thanks for the how to. Helped me minimize breaking bolt. I have that tool too.
Awesome man, glad you stopped on by. See u next week!!
After watching this video and uncovering many more like videos it seems this broken bolt problem is quite common. My 6.7 doesn't have a ton of miles on it yet so I thought I'd take some proactive steps. Like what was in your video, the driver's side bolt came out within my comfort zone. The passenger side was a bit tougher and my paranoia rose. But I got it out without breaking it. I gave the bolts a bit of Permatex anti sieze lube and re-installed them. If the time comes to work on the EGR I hope this helps ease my bolt removal. Better yet; never have a need to remove them.
Excellent!!!
I would LIKE to do a complete EGR removal, BUT the bolt breaking thing has me skiddish. Reminiscent of the Triton spark plug thing (I was able to avoid THAT shit show). So, I think I'll just have to be content with just unplugging it, I guess.
yes my weekly ford fix! love the videos!
Thanks 4 stoppin' by
The key to removing these is to keep it turning and not stopping. 1/4 drive stubby ratchet works best. When torqued from factory the stainless bolt gets a burr on it causing removal to be difficult.
I hadn't even thought of this method, gonna try it next time. Last truck I did this on I got good and hot and the interstate then got back and broke the bolts loose before it cooled. Sprayed them and let them sit for a while, they fortunately came out.
Good idea!
I've always liked your videos. There are other Ford techs on TH-cam similar to you but you have always explained your processes and methods of thinking in a way that I understand.
Thanks so much for tunin' in!
My friend's egr cooler is in the trash where it belongs
I use the same method on fasteners, I like to use Crome sockets when the head is all jacked up.. I never seen a alt. With a smooth Pully... good video I was sweating with u!!!
Lol so was errr 1 else. Make me sweat lookin at it
one thing ive seen others try is using an induction device to heat up the bolt. i guess the theory is heat up and expand the bolt, busting the rust/seizure loose. unfortunately those tools are kinda pricy but a lot safer than a torch...
another great video by the way...
I have 1, however these bolts are non ferrous and will not induce any magnetism/heat transfer into them unless u use the blue tipped wrench
@@PowerStrokeTechTalkwARod bummer!
I know i was waaaa waaa waaa wa wa wa wa wa
Awe man I was hoping you got it. So close. Good info bro
Thanks pal
50/50 mix of acetone and ATF will penetrate threads like that and loosen it like a miracle
It's been a LONG while that I've had a 6.7 in my bay for an EGR cooler replace. Since you're that far apart, have a look at how badly the EGR throttle body housing gets caked with carbon. Since you're in there for a vacuum pump gasket as well, might as add a turbo oil supply and coolant supply tubes as well, since they seem to like to leak from there too, if that's pre-2015 model year.
Yeppppp yeppp
Great videos!! The poor bolt got hot. Usually a 99.9% chance those will break.
Yeppp
Mechanics are truly "men of steel"
Lolol
I have noticed dealing with other rusted fasteners that tightening it first on a low setting with an impact driver and then loosening with a low setting on the impact driver that I have been able to start to walk rusted bolt free because I think that the rust clogs the side of the thread that is not holding tension And it’s abrasiveness actually prevent the bolt from backing out so breaking it loose by tightening it first, then loosening it in successive and reverse motions with a generous application of penetrant seems to work for some odd reason..
Ford is REAL good at using dissimilar metals when assembling their shit.
No kiddin
Thats the very reason i own left handed drill bits they work remarkably well on broken bolts
They are nice, except in situations like this when the bolt breaks because the threads are galling.
I use a brazing tip on my torch to heat the manifold before attempting. The cutting tip is too big to fit down in there but the small brazing tip fits great.
Even the torch didn't help me this time. Just did my 3rd 6.7 egr and broke both bolts after heating them. Took the upper and lower intakes off to get access. Attempted to weld nuts to the remains, but apparently the titanium bolts don't hold well with regular mig welding. Ended up drilling them, which was a PITA. Retapped them to 8x1.25 and put in some 10.9 bolts and called it good.
Both off them broke on me. I just drilled and tapped new holes next to the broken studs. Then clocked (rotate) the block off plate on it. Saved me from having to drill out the studs. I did try to but gave up.
Great idea, About to make the plunge myself and do this just been really leery with all the horror stories of them breaking off didn't think about turning it clockwise on the block off plate
It is just as bad with northern cummins trucks...at some point cummins decided to change the bolt supplier and those particular trucks break the bolts off all by themselves without any help from a impact driver. Customer comes in complaining about some sort of ticking or whistling noise.
That's a good idea and Disperses the torque evenly ... Kind of like a tap handle..
Wow I was on the end of my chair and then BOOM
Byb byb BOLT I know you where mad but you can fix that problem ASAP
good video
Lmao, thx pal
Should have hit the impact driver clockwise first (tightening) and then hit it counterclockwise/clockwise back and forth many times to loosen the bolt rust before hitting only counterclockwise.
Also, heat the flange connection to expand it to loosen the rust before removing the bolts.
Also try: retrofit a multi-tool blade to fit on a 3/8" extension/socket and run the multi-tool 10 minutes to vibrate the bolt to loosen the thread rust.
Yea bub sometimes it doesnt work like that....
Not a mechanic but being a jack of all trades and breaking bolts before I sincerely felt that “son of a BITCH” lmao I laughed so hard but totally felt the pain
I’m waiting on the Dorman solutions kit where you use a sawzall on the pipe behind flex joint and use their kit to join the two sides of the egr supply pipe back together. If something like that was durable I’d do it. I have used Milk of Magnesia as anti-seize on some exhaust joints and bolts on various equipment where bolts are prone to gall and shear and it has been about 100% successful. Regular anti-seize sometimes bakes due to oil in it and defeats it purpose in exhaust and turbo locations. VN band clamps pop loose if m of m is used. If working on something upsets your gut you can drink it too. Damn sure can’t do that with permatex anti-seize.
Thats awesome!
Just break both of them off and weld nuts on to them. The heat from welding helps the remaining stud break loose.
I hope you find a better penetrating fluid then WD-40. Something like Aero-Kroil or even PB Blaster. I wont even allow WD-40 near a rusty bolt though it MAY be good for some uese, it ain't what it wsed to be years ago (thanks, EPA)
When I have to do this I dread it, however I’ve never busted a bolt once I get it spinning. Dump that WD-40, PB blaster works so much better. And I usually add heat on anything that is exhaust manifold/pipe related, And rub a candle on it to add wax into it, or use fluid film. Just my two cents on getting these bloody things off. And too bad you don’t have the luxury of a few days to pre-treat it with PB blaster
Just broke and drilled one 2day, 30 min....done
Dude I hate that for you. I was stressing the whole time you were working it back and forth because I know the feeling completely.
I guess the guys who just pull the front half of the cooler don’t replace the rear O-rings lol. I’ve had good luck using the hand held torch and talking dirty to the truck usually helps. I couldn’t believe that bolt snapped. So close but so far away.
Taaaaaaavooooooooooh
Yeah WD-40 is good for that, Use Aero Kroil, Read my comment above
1:07 words to live by.
Use a brazing tip on an oxygen a Is acetylene torch.. Easy way to pin point your heat
It happened to me the same way you did it at work
7.3 for life lol
Lol
Dan Smith 50 down the highway for life you mean?
FBI hauling super heavy, yes lol
Dan Smith while the 6.0 tows more
FBI 6.0? You mean 6 blow?
Sometimes a good powerful impact can spin the bolt out before it even knows its siezed. Its a good idea to break it free and then hit it with the impact. Also i have found if you hit the bolt head with a air hammer it stretches the bolt and presto its loose so your not fighting that any more. Usually wrecks (bends) the bolt but who cares.
Word word word
I always break at least one of those bolts when working on a 6.7 EGR. The struggle is real.
I love it!
nice work.. i like tech pepole that care of do the work the right way as you do and care of the work you do..
Thanks pal!!!
Welcome any time budd!!!!!
Bummer! Sad ending
Yea, watch the link in the description, happy ending!!
I'm more of an acetone and atf kind of guy. Sometimes I'll even use the really long hose on the oil can.
STRUGGLE IS REAL! LOL!
Aint no lie
@@PowerStrokeTechTalkwARod Well done on the fix video!!!
Thanks u sir
Holding my breath!
Keeeep holding.....
I would think the consistent back & forth would create friction weakening the bolt...I would allow rest time in between back & forth & let the bolt cool!! Also WD40 to allow it to penetrate!
Nahh not these pal. They're not normal bolts like u think they are They're titanium crap ass thin bolts.
After they come out ARP studs and lock nuts go In
That’s ok my friend happens in this kind of work thank you for the video end if’s boring is not for you
I just broke one today at 200,000 miles
Man what a MOfO!!! I can’t wait to do some deletes on my 6.7
Come see meee
Man that stinks 🤬. Had a similar issue on a Chevy 3.4 van - rear spark plug - spray, wiggle - spray, wiggle numerous times, plug breaks in head - got a reman head. Thing had 180,000 miles on it. Who knows if rear plugs were ever done.
Yikes gd, i can feel ya on that 1!
Use Aero Kroil penetrate and a Nap Gas torch heat the base not the pipe. Soak for 1 day then use a pin punch on the head of the bolt. Give it a few good smacks. Start with the bolt that always breaks watch enough of these videos and your soon figure this out. After a 24 hour soak with Aero Kroil, heat the bottom side of the manifold not the pipe use a hand hammer impact to loosen it. Let it cool and spray it more, no more heat as it will expand the bolt. Work the bolt back and forth and spray in more Aero Kroil. The trick is the Aero Kroil it actually eats rust and dissolves it. WD-40 is a water displacement solution with very little long lasting lubrication properties and does nothing for the rust. It works great for water in a distributor cap, wait I'm showing my age... Read the reviews comparing the different penetrating oils vs Aero Kroil. Use High Temp Anti-seize when reassemble, just like spark plugs and aluminum heads.
Yea this isnt my 1st rodeo....ill do it my way 😂😂😂 i love you guys responses
Did mine couple months ago I watched this video beforehand so I heated up the engine pulled them out without issue must have gotten lucky
The more you loosen and tighten the bolt the more it heats up and softens the bolt. Work it out a few times. Spray it down with WD40. Let it sit at least 10 minutes to cool. Repeat as necessary until bolt is out. Bolts are weaker when they are warm or hot. Your welcome
.....yea not these. They're not your typical bolt. But I'm sure you could tell that from that side of the screen. Your welcome
Remove the battery tray and then you can remove the egr cooler without removing that pipe. Been doing it that way for a few years now. I don’t touch those bolts unless I absolutely have to.
Yepp me too. I dont even remove the tray. Cooler comes right out. Same for the 20s too
Really...you can do that on the 6.7L. You have to pull it out towards the front. Looks like it would be in the way??? Does it flex a bit?
No sir, go look again. It's a puzzle. No one told me I had to figure it out. I'm not gonna tell you but I will lead you....
Don't care for puzzles but i hate broken studs so i will try to figure it out.
..................................................................hint hint, ya might wanna read the comments before ya, we'll I'm sure you've answered your question by now.........................
U do very nice jobs man and l know u can fix that easy
Heat & cooling cycles might have helped. WD40 is piss poor lube. I use asitone & atf.
They break, they break...no way around it
Great video Bro! But still that sucks!
Yabh, clda been worse tho
a penny's worth of nevereize at the engine plant would save a lot of heartbreak
That shizzz wlda burned off in no time! Never seize, never there HA 😂
There r no plugs but the blocker heater element.
So if you hit those bolts for about 20 seconds with a MAP gas torch... don't have to get them red hot.. but just get um warmed up... they'll come out without any issues...
I beg to differ......
Damn! Thinking about the 6.7 but I don't know... It looks complicated!
Yea, the duramax runs an almost identical fuel system as the 6.7.
I wish i cld love mine, gotta have 1 first!
@@PowerStrokeTechTalkwARod would you get the 6.2 gas or the 6.7 diesel?
Fun and joys of broken bolts, snapped off bolts for thermostats can be a real bitch. Isn't that a good feeling when your working it girl its coming out then you get that feeling in your gut and it happens the damn bolt breaks off.
I have always had great luck on rusty bolts/nuts with a 1/4 inch drive battery powered impact driver. Be light on the trigger.
So it wont break use a air hammer with flat head/smoothing bit it will damage the bolt but it will loosen it completely and wont break
When ever we need to touch those bolts in my shop we make sure a manifold is in stock and the customer knows it may cost more if it brakes before doing the job since it happens so much
captianhoran lol I like your approach.
I had one break on me when doing my EGR delete. Tried welding a nut to it and it broke. Then tried an easy out and it broke too. Ended up having to just replace the whole manifold. That was a $1000 mistake.
Yepp...yeppp bet that was fun
I broke one yesterday doing a delete,drilled and tapped to 8x1.25 and down the road she goes and I didnt remove the intake.
Well amen god bless to ya!
This just happened to my truck. I’m the shop for dPF delete. Was supposed to be 800 bucks. Then they said they do need to do the full
Egr delete as well. I said sure do it right. Well while doing that they dropped bolts into the exhaust manifold. Now I’m out 3100 bucks. Is there a way to hold a shop accountable? Was there a way to do this without replacing the entire manifold?
Ooooooooooof
Do they not make any better bolts that you can replace after the car is bought or is this one of ford's genius ways
edwardo Don edwardo absolutely. You can replace them with whatever you like. I always replace the bolts whether they break or not. I go with stainless steel. However, I'm not sure if that will actually prevent this from happening again.
Can't believe it broke after it had that much movement
Thats how they go, some break others come right out
I really wanted to see more like the intake coming out and then egr removal. I get the bolts are a issue though.
9 out of 10 snap on us
very informative video but i have some querries about the EGR bypass valve especially for Ford F550. i will be thankful if you can answer below 2 questions. Thanks
1.) Firstly, i would like to know the position and structure and shape of the EGR bypass valve how does it look like.
2.) Secondly, when the EGR bypass valve is closed, then the exhasut gas is bypassed directly in to the manifold. my question is when it is bypassed, then is it possible that some amount of the gas slips through the gaps around bypass valve or slips in the cooler? Or does the gas goes back?
10:00 Should’ve walked away for a while and let the wd penetrate since the bolt was getting too soft/expanding with all that friction heat you were causing … or it would’ve happened either way 🤷🏼♂️
Valiant effort tho
They gon break either way
I feel like I just watched my self 3 days ago pulling my egr and exact thing happens on the same bolt with the same about coming out going back and forth
Heart sinking lol
Lololololol
I used kb88 and struck the head couple times and they came write out
Also if you get one of them out try to swivel the pipe a little bit to work the fluid into the other one
Broken bolts/spark plugs, are the worst, especially if you're working flat rate.
Broken bolts, spark plugs, the rust belt....yepp thats meeeee
If Ford would have used Stainless Steel bolts I wonder if that would have averted this problem...
Good question?
I believe they are stainless bolts, which is why they snap so easily
@@axl151 Nope, they are titanium
Your technique started out flawless until you kept working the bolt, it got hot and expanded it was over at that point. Also ditch the wd40 and get yourself a product called aero kroil it is the best. Change those two things I guarantee you will have much more success. Not 100% . O cutting the head off and torching sounds good as well.
Thank you for this info as I am planning on doing it myself, if you break the bolts can you put a bigger bolt in there, let's say a 10mm?
Where can I get that tool? Bout to do mine on my 13 with 213k miles
You could probably heat it with a map gas or oxy torch
Yea good luck with that....SNAP!
Have you ever tried using a "shake and break" adapter in an air hammer? You can put a socket on the end and apply twisting force with a wrench while air hammering. I have had luck using this on other applications.
I haven't heard of that, ill have to chk her out
We used to do that for big truck (Budd) wheels... put a big 4-way wrench on it, have the other end on a jack stand, put a big long cheater bar, then whang on the jackstand end of the 4-way with the big tire hammer. After that, get the torch out.
Just happened to me Las night, same bolt. One week with pb blaster before and after heat cycling. Drivers side came easy. The other snapped just after I broke it loose. Took the entire upper intake off, used a #7 titanium drill bit and a 1/4-20 tap, used a piece of grade 8 all thread and made a stud. Now I use a nut and lock washer for one side and the original bolt for the other. I dont have to ever worry about removing that pipe again. There is some kinda shiny plate with an exhaust probe in its place now. How did that happen🤔
Wow interesting. Id never be able 2 tell 🤪
Why don’t you just go with it from the get-go? Looks like there’s plenty of room to get a small torch in there to heat up the box that has the threads in it?
Good luck with that pal
@@PowerStrokeTechTalkwARod You don’t think you could get a torch in there? The ghetto talk is doing you no favors. That first post got a little messed up. It should have said --Why don’t you just go at it with a small torch from the get go? There looks to be enough room. The boss that holds the threads looks to be accessible. You’d only have to hit 400 or so degrees. I’m not trying to be some kind of ass here. This is just one mechanic to,, I guess??? you young guys go by technicians these days? I’ve been at it for 40yrs. They called us mechanics back then. That was at best. Grease monkeys was more common. The mechanics schools were for the dumb kids back then. Not so much anymore. You got to have big smarts to work on today’s vehicles.
Ghetto talk really....definitely different generation. 20 yrs strong AE1Y. One day it will 40. Torch or no torch...big or small. They'll break. So as i said previously...not being a d*!khead...most respect to you senior mentor......with them bolts....good luck. 🙋♂️🤝
If you get these bolt out would it help to replace them with an ARP # 770-1003 for future removal. They are stainless steel, would that make them easier to get out next time or would you be prone to the same removal problem as the factory Ford bolt.
Cant have to different metals bolted together...
What about using a bolt heat induction tool ?
Yup sucks for sure. What I don't understand is Ford knows this is a problem and been a problem from day one. Why don't they change the material of the bolt to help stop this. Like inconel 718. It is a high nickel base alloy. We use it in aircraft engines. It is designed for high heat applications. Less corrosion. Yea it's a little pricey. But well worth it. And Ford can get the price down to about 10.00 to 15.00 a bolt. Maybe even cheaper by volume.
Omg i know🤦♂️🤷♂️
Would it help to heat the bolts with Map gas torch first as well as soak them with kroil oil?
Had em break doing that & not....doesnt matter
If the bolts break can you just tack weld a good bolt to the broken one and turn the good bolt out and along comes the broken bolt?
Thats a BIG NOPE good buddy. You either use this kit of replace zeee manifold, PERIOD
@@PowerStrokeTechTalkwARod why can't I weld a nut on the broken part of the bolt and turn it out?
Try
I appreciate the video and for reference I have not done this job yet but isn't there a way to heat up the area with a torch? I know heat works wonders on stuck bolts
Ive done it they break too.
@@PowerStrokeTechTalkwARod good to know thanks
I guess your luck ran out!
I just enough to be dangerous, so I take my vehicles to a mechanic. It would seem to me that an EGR is the dumbest idea on the planet
What genius thought that a 8mm bolt would be a good idea??
Righhhht
on the second bolt would you recommend using heat to maybe help loosen it, I was thinking of an magnetic induction heater, so I can focus the heat very specifically on the bolts or the housing
These bolts are NON ferous. The inductor isnt gonna work pal
I hate when that happens
Yahhhhh
Curious, how much exhaust pressure is there on the exhaust side, the side where dem bolts like to break. Cause all these block off plate companies send chrome hex head bolts with them. Seems cheap. Do you know how much pressure or is it minimal
Ive seen 80 psi @ thee exh backpressure sensor
@@PowerStrokeTechTalkwARod that isn't much, ok I feel more comfortable with my repair, drilled, tapped and new bolts. But after breaking 5 bits I got about just less than 1/2 inch of new threads for the new bolt, should work, no exhaust leaks so a win? I think!
🤞🤞🤞
@@PowerStrokeTechTalkwARod should work just fine, the new bolts are larger in diameter and have a quicker bolt/thread engagement work the clamping force should be equal or greater than OEM
Have you used the promaxx tool for drilling out the injector hold down bolt ? If so do you really need to buy the prokit plus or does the normal kit work just as well.
Yes theyve hooked me up with em
@@PowerStrokeTechTalkwARod how does it work, do you need the kit with the inserts.
Watch my other video, i got 4 it
Hey buddy I got a question I have a 2015 6.7 I broke the exhaust back pressure sensor off putting intake manifold back in I installed a new sensor ford oem now I am getting a p04071 p04073 running rough
Better check those circuits
You think it’s in the wiring
Do the new 6.7,s have the same set up or did Henry come out with a better idea?
Henry told them!!! Cuz he knows all the secrets....however, he left it up to some1 who forgot to change the bolt material out....ooops. Thats where i come in, hello im here!
I have same problem with this fuc..n bolts ..)