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Ford 6.7 EGR Removal & Air Intake Upgrade
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 19 ส.ค. 2024
- 2015 Ford F-350 Superduty with a 6.7 powerstroke diesel. In this video I will be transforming this truck into a competetion diesel drag racing truck and sled puller. So I am removing the egr system on it to help it perform better at the track and this truck will be no longer be street legal and cannot be driven on public roads and will have to be trailered back and forth to the track. I will also be upgrading the stock air intake to a new S&B cold air intake kit. There will also be more mods to come in the future. Listed below is a link to to the S&B intake system.
S&B Cold Air Intake: www.sbfilters....
Note: If you plan on removing the egr system on your 6.7 powerstroke please check with your local and state and government laws beforehand.
![Exclusive! น้องลิกก้า&น้องโรร่า มาแล้ว!! [cc] แดนแพทตี้ SS2 | EP.48 |](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/UmlpJhRekyY/mqdefault.jpg)
Best video on this so far, no cussing, no camera dizziness, no loud music… awesome work brother!!!
I liked the “easy” step by step procedure. Zero swearing 🤬 but noticed a few hand scrapes throughout haha! Job well done 👍🏼
Amazing video! Made me doing this by myself so much easier! I soaked all the bolts with kroil everyday for 4 days and all of them broke loose very easy.
Wow. That was a lot of work. Not just the wrenching but setting up the camera each time for all the shots. Thank you.
Great video....clearly shows every step required to get this done....good job, sir!
Despite my best efforts with PB and torch heat, still managed to break one of the EGR to mani bolts. Those Ti bolts are mothers. I was able to weld a nut to the top of the broken off bolt and get it. Still a PITA.
For the EGR to mani plate, I used class 8.8 (grade 5) bolts with washers instead of the supplied allen head bolts. I also chased the threads in the mani..the threads in the cast iron were nasty rough. Don't reuse the old Ti bolts! Guys have snapped those reusing them. If you really want to use the OEM bolts, I recommend you buy new ones. I also nickel anti seized the bolts for all three block off plates....just in case future removal is needed.
One last tip for the radiator drains, especially the secondary system drain...which is a major PITA to reach...I used a 3/4" 6 PT socket on a 3/8" drive. Socket slips over the flat on the valves and worked perfectly! Just be gentle and don't gorilla those valves, remember, they are plastic. Way better than pliers, etc. and you don't have to fab up a tool for them.
Hope this helps!
Thanks for the tips.
Best step by step video I’ve watched on any kind of project!!! Great work bud!
The relief I felt when the bolts came out and didn’t break when I made my truck a competition truck to be trailered everywhere was such a good feeling.
hahahahaha
I just did mine, a 2104. It comes stock with the new heater core hose that you had to swap out to install. IF you want to clean up a lot of the hoses on top, you should leave the 2015 heater core hose in. Then, the 3/8" hose by the secondary tank that comes across and Tees, cut that all out and just run that straight across the top of the radiator to the primary tank. You will need one 3/8" hose splice and a pair of clamps, and most of the spaghetti hoses on the top are now gone. Pusher makes a coolant reroute kit that does this, and replaces the tall black "L" tube that comes from under the plastic intake, by the passenger exhaust manifold where the EGR piping connected up, where you put in the block plate with the bung for the EGT sensor, with a straight adapter and rubber hose to go straight to the heater core, but you can save some money by just leaving that 2015 setup just as it is Stock (for 2014 and earlier, just put a cap on the 3/8" barb that comes out the top of the elbow), and make the splice across the top/front, and no more spaghetti hoses. All that you will have are the x2 3/8" hoses across the top, one directly on the radiator, and the one that comes up by the throttle body and then goes to the rear of the primary tank, it has a quick disconnect inline, leave it is.
Also, seeing were the vacuum line connects and comes out, I had the same issue, my cap was way too big, now I know where to put the cap and remove that whole vacuum line. For about $120, you can get a set of the dummy plugs to put into all of your connectors that you unhooked, for the full EGR/DEF/DPF delete. Includes the caps for the "throttle body" connections as well. I took my lower intake and throttle body out and cleaned all the carbon crap out (IT WAS A LOT, at 150k miles). The throttle body will fail in the open position, or you can pull the butterfly flapper with 2 screws. New hot and cold charge pipes, upper and lower HSM fuel filters, CCV delete/reroute, and a new HSM upper intake assembly, as well as delete the DPF filter (cheaper than replacing it, and the DEF heater which is bad also).
And I also put in the S&S CP4 disaster kit ver 2.1. My CP4 was fine, but I like the peace of mind. If you guys keep good fuel in, and run some kind of quality fuel additive to keep the tank and lines clean and NO WATER IN FUEL, then you will get better life from your CP4 pump, as the main cause of it going bad as far as I can find out, is bad fuel, water in the fuel, sludge buildup in the fuel tank. This causes issues for the pump, like RUST, and then you need about $4k in parts alone to replace the CP4, fuel rails, injectors, etc.
Great video, I learned a couple things that I can see will work better for me, like where the secondary drain is and the right place for the vacuum cap.
Where did you get the dummy plug kit?
@@banjo8247 I ordered mine from Sunny Diesel. I think there are other sites that have them available, also. Please know that when you delete the DPF exhaust, there are 2 modules on the frame rail that can also come out. When those come out, the dummy plugs go to THOSE harness connections, not between the modules and the exhaust. FYI. Also I did remove my DEF tank, and a couple of those connections didn’t have a dummy plug so I had to use a ziplock bag and zip ties.
Very smart noting that your turning it into a race truck while posting this video. 😉
One question sir. How did you manage this without a singe bad word? Amazing, professional, hands down my favorite educational video yet.
😂oh trust me there was plenty of that, just have to keep it family friendly. But all in all wasn’t to bad now if this was a 25 year old truck with high miles and came from the rust belt then I think it would be a totally different story lol.
On that back bolt holding the EGR down, you can remove that plate just under the ECM wire connector which makes it easier to remove that back bolt.
Great Video, Thanks
Thanks for the tip.
Thank you very much for the video and explaining it in crayola for us slow guys.
You sir are a FREAKING ROCKSTAR! Fantastic video thank you!
Great video. The step-by-step detail is a huge help. Spraying those downpipe bolts like the guy who owns the truck did saves a lot of time and headache.
Yeah you definitely don't want to snap one of those POS titanium bolts...
@@claytonwhitman2611 I stripped the head off of one of ‘em, now I’m in the process of putting everything back together. Cause fuck deleting it at this point.
@@kad3e3 OUCH!!! I DID snap one of mine, the outboard one that usually snaps if one is going to. PITA!!! The good kit to drill out and repair is expensive(more than $500), and takes time, but worth it. That bolt is titanium, so it drills similar to stainless steel, but needs a lot of pressure, and slow RPMs, more so than stainless usually does. NOT FUN!!!
@@claytonwhitman2611 the head rounded off, it’s still there. So I’m wondering when I take off the upper and lower intake, if I can weld a new head onto it, and take it off that way. A bolt extractor didn’t even work.
@@kad3e3 Well it's titanium, so welding to it with just any normal steel filler rod is questionable. However, it is an alloy by definition (pure titanium is brittle, so any practical application is always an alloy) so its possible to potentially weld a nut (do not use a stainless one, and if all you have are galvanized nuts, grind off the galv coating on the side that's up where you will be welding to it) to the end, and be able to remove that bolt and replace it. Just the act of welding to it creates a lot of heat, and the heating and cooling can possibly break it free from it's seized position. FIRST, I would soak the hell out of it with croil or some other highly effective penetrating oil, several times. Then, You can use a small torch to heat, and then allow to cool, then heat and allow to cool several times, and apply some pressure. IF it doesn't budge, wait a bit to let it cool and try again, and again until it's almost cold again. TAKE YOUR TIME, DO NOT GET IN A HURRY. IF it does break free, be VERY VERY CAREFUL, and turn it only small amounts. IF it sticks again, try backing it up. WORK SLOWLY, to try to loosen it completely. IF it gets stuck, stop. Try some more heat. DO NOT USE ANY OIL while it is still significantly warm or hot. You will cause rapid cooling, and probably crack or snap the bolt off. Oil only when its just warm, cool enough to touch bare handed and hold. If you can get those titanium bolts out, replace with some stainless bolts (M6 x 1.0, or M8 x 1.0, I think its the M6 bolt for 11-16 and M8 for 17 and up), and when you reassemble ALWAYS USE copper based high heat anti seize. The bolts don't need a lot of torque. If you had to work the bolt out, get a bottom tap and chase the threads before reassembly. The only bolts you need to replace for fear of seizing in place are the 2 in the exhaust manifold. The others will come right out, 99.9% of the time. Use the copper never-seize.
*****Also, before you do anything, pack the opening in the exhaust header and the intake openings with balled up towels or rags, or something that will prevent loose bolts or debris from going inside. THAT would be a really bad bad day, to lose a bolt or nut or washer or small socket, etc down inside the motor. ANY intake or exhaust passage needs to be blocked off securely, or you risk turning the head and/or cylinder block to scrap if you let stuff get in there. Just trying to be clear, for those who may not realize what can happen. No sense turning a potential $500+ bolt repair (If you have to buy the kit to drill out a broken titanium bolt, and rethread for an insert) into scrapping a $10k-14k motor.... It would be enough to make any grown man cry.
Really good detailed removal!
Nice job. Only thing I would do is put anti seize on the bolts in case you need to put all that stuff back.
For the back left bolt and the bolt in the very back, remove passenger tire and inner fender, and you can fit a ratchet on both
Thanks for the tip
Don’t forget the center egr bolts
best video!!!!
Wow, this is an awesome detailed video….you tha man!
excellent video, very descriptive. Thank you
Thank you. The instructions for the kit are horrible. This is the 1st video that shows where the double factory clip hose goes (firewall heater). Instructions state the bent tab goes under the cowl, but I like your location better. I removed the computer and made access to the 7th EGR cooler bolt super easy. I'm doing the CP4DPK at the same time. Sure wish I had the $$ for the Pusher PowerFlow pipes.
Fan-freakin-tastic!
use silicone for orings. oil should not be used as they degrade orings. Great Video!
I soaked with PB Blaster and brake fluid for a month off and on and the left deep bolt broke smooth off after a 1/4 turn. I hate Ford so much.
I use never seize lubricant on bolts are nuts that go on hot manifolds. Easier to get off next time if need be.
Thanks man big help!
Have a 2016 F350, needs Ford 6.7 engine. Learned from dealer that engine is at least 6 months out!
Thanks!
Your very welcome. Appreciate the super thanks as well.
One of the best videos out there for this project. Could you shoot me a link to that coolant vacuum? Also do I seen some guy just drain one hose, do you have to do the entire system? If not can you just fill the little bit back without using vacuum?
amzn.to/3rGGsHV you don’t have to drain the whole system and you don’t have to use the vacuum tool but it does prevent any air bubbles entering the cooling system which leads to cavitation overtime on the aluminum.
@@BLUECOLLARGARAGEthanks
How convenient i just googled a egr kit for a 6.7 and now your in my youtube wow
Hey so I followed this, but I lost all heat in the truck, I’ve had 2 shops and then myself vacuum fill the coolant. Checked heater core changed thermostat only thing I’ve seen is the heater core valve we took off.
Good morning it's already early morning here Texas, a question I hope it's not a bother, where did you get the kit to eliminate the EGR,?? Thank you very much, God bless you
Totally harmless barn spider. They eat horse and deer flies so they are my friends.
Awesome video. Good info. Will this affect getting admissions ? Smog test in PHX AZ ?
the 4 bolts are nonagnetic, stainless or titanium.
Probably stainless steel.
Hey do you happen to know where I can buy those block off plate screws? My kit was missing 2 of them and I can’t finish installing the block plate for the exhaust manifold. Much appreciated for the tutorial! I had such an awful time with this due to a bolt stripping at the exhaust manifold.
I would just take the screw you have to your local ace hardware or possibly fastnal or grainger and see if they can match it up.
@@BLUECOLLARGARAGEGood idea, I’ll do that tomorrow thanks!
@@BLUECOLLARGARAGEYou know what I ended up doing? I used the original bolts for the air intake flange instead. No idea why I didn’t think of that yesterday. And since the back is open they fit perfect. Hope it helps someone else out.
I just finished this whole process on my 17 powerstroke. But now, how do I fix the def problem? It says that I can't drive more than 50mph
This can’t be done without the proper tune and tuner.
Curious did u have to unplug the connector on the cold side intercooler pipe for the butterfly valve?
No
Please provide link to the vacuum pump used for the engine coolant. Excellent video! Thanks
amzn.to/3BjfJSO
Awesome video! I just did this on my 2015 superduty as well. Do you have a grey female end of a sensor near the secondary cooling system up front? Where does that sensor plug back into? Im getting the code for P2182.
Does that refill both coolant systems? Getting ready to do this myself and not sure how the 2 different coolant systems work
There are two separate cooling systems on the 6.7 powerstroke one for the radiator and main cooling system and the other one if for the egr cooler you will need to drain and refill both to do this procedure. Here’s a link to another video I did on this truck draining and refilling the cooling system. th-cam.com/video/bLeUnYXR_mc/w-d-xo.html
What EGR delete did you use? can you post the link?
Where can you get the heater hose with the fitting from the firewall to that upper coolant pipe, or a part number?
Hey brother thanks for the video! I’m doing mine this weekend and have a question for anyone…do I install the tune before I begin the tear down?
I’m also doing this, but from my knowledge yes. If you already finished, how did it turn out?
Did your truck throw a code after deleting the EGR
Yes you will need a custom tune if not it will go into limp mode.
What’s that name of the block off plate kit that you got ???
Where are you located? I’m looking to have some work done?
Can you send me an email?
What’s your email I got a few questions blue collar garage
Where did you order the kit from????
Cant find too many with the ability to use the factory egt probe!
@@collin581 this is the kit here and you can customize it the way you want it. www.unlimiteddiesels.com/store/BLACK-FRIDAY-SALE-DPF-&-EGR-DELETE-TUNING-2008-2019-FORD-DELETE-PIPE-EGR-DELETE-p268436558
@@BLUECOLLARGARAGE Thank you!
What happens if bolts break??