It’s a project for sure! I did My 2011 when it had 10K miles, every bolt came out nice. Did my buddies at 180k miles, not so much, we just welded a piece into the manifold you were fighting with bolts and helicoils I need to do this to my 2017 soon, bore it gets to 20k miles.. Cheers
Carl S I did my 2017 a couple months ago. At 20k miles there was plenty of soot in the pipe going to the cooler, that’s not going through the motor again. Cheers! ( Side note... one bolt in the top of the manifold took me :45 min to work out without breaking)
yellow72bronco I took a video of all the parts I took off of my truck. And with only 300 miles on the parts it was crazy how much soot was already in them. I just recently put a CCV kit on as well.
You hit the challenging tasks which some videos skip. Nice to know in advance what I am going to struggle with. Of course now Ford has switched to the new POAT coolant... thank you Ford, which is a better coolant and backwards compatible with the orange Ford coolant. It is dyed yellow, but nothing to do with old fashioned yellow coolants with silicates in them, so don't assume a Yellow coolant is POAT. Ford has discontinued the old Orange coolant and switched to modern POAT coolant. Of course you don't have to drain your primary coolant for an EGR delete (just secondary) but it was cool that you showed that Airlift system. Like you explained, you where switching out the Primary coolant cuz you needed to do it anyway. Thanks for great video.
Good video, I deleted my 6.7 around 35000 miles ago, left the egr cooler in place (unhooked) but am wanting to take it off, this video will help thank u
How do you leave the cooler on and delete it? Does someone make a plate to block it off and leave it stock looking? ? I am concerned with big government going nutzoid and requiring 50 emission testing and what might happen if a copper sees it is deleted. ?
@@Tom-pn5sk you can leave the egr cooler on and just install the exhaust and intake block off plates. I’ve done 2 trucks like that with no issues. Doing it that way you also don’t have to drain the coolant and it’s much quicker then removing the egr cooler itself.
Extremely helpful video! I just felt like an idiot when i skipped ahead in the video you pointed at the front of the radiator and said this “basil” so I rewinded to figure out what you meant. 😂 you said “bezel” all makes sense now
If you take the passenger fender liner out and turn the wheel left you can access that back bolt on the egr easily with no hassle then all you need is a deep well 10mm and a ratchet or palm ratchet to make it a little easier
One thing that helped me when I took my egr cooler off and the dreaded nut on the back of the cooler, I took 3 long extensions and a deep 10mm socket from underneath the truck and was able too turn and loosen the nut enough to get the slotted bracket off. Worked very well. May help someone else
The bracket holds onto a sensor which is connected into the exhaust pipe. If you can't get to the bracket you can do what I did and just disconnect the sensor from the exhaust and reconnect after you get the EGR cooler out.
For the bolt at the back of EGR cooler, just take the aspiration hose off by pressing white plastic clip. Then remove the sensor from the steel line to make more room. Then reach in past EGR cooler and use a 16mm stubby and remove flare nut on steel line at the turbo pipe. You don't have to go through wheel well or fight 10mm nut on back of EGR. It comes out eezy peezy and saves a fortune of time.
I can’t believe how overly complicated and crammed these motors have gotten, makes me really miss my old 7.3! After owning fords for 20 years I’ve switched over to the dodge / cummins strictly for simplicity and ease of repair, damn do I miss my fords tho wish they’d make a nice simple motor again like the old days.
I had one bolt break off in exhaust manifold. Was very careful but it seized and couldn't go in or out. Had to drill it out. I removed intake plenum to get a straight shot. It also is a good time to clean all carbon out.of intake system.
This is an old video and you probably know this by now but, the reason those two bolts always break off is because they are titanium. Dissimilar metals like titanium and cast iron bond with each other over time. It's a stupid design choice. Useless info unless one of your viewers is considering using titanium bolts in a cast iron project. lol
Not gonna lie I didnt have to do none of that shit I used a swivel and and a shit load of extensions took a strap and pulled over the exhaust pipe from the manifold with my ferris rider then took a crowbar and popped it up and took it out after all the antifreeze was done draining on the ground I used the kit and closed off all the openings they were intended for. The main line I had the hose for I took a cut off wheel and cut the factory fitting and old hose from and attached the new this took me 2hrs. I don't use a dewalt zip gun and made the mistake of breaking off a bolt on the lower side of the coolant cap off. But it's not leaking and fuck it lol
Was wondering if you could show me how you did your mini maxx? I’m not to savvy with wires. I tried to pause and see how you did it but can’t see to mugh. Thanks so much for the video! Extremely helpful
very informative video but i have some querries about the EGR bypass valve especially for Ford F550. i will be thankful if you can answer below 2 questions. Thanks 1.) Firstly, i would like to know the position and structure and shape of the EGR bypass valve how does it look like. 2.) Secondly, when the EGR bypass valve is closed, then the exhasut gas is bypassed directly in to the manifold. my question is when it is bypassed, then is it possible that some amount of the gas slips through the gaps around bypass valve or slips in the cooler? Or does the gas goes back?
Did you install a down pipe back exhaust or just do a delete pipe? If you did an exhaust what did you go with? How much louder is it from stock? Trying to figure out what setup I want to go with.
I put in a straight pipe and left the stock tip at the end. It surprisingly in the cab is not much different. You can hear the turbo a lot more but that is it. That is really only with the windows down.
I see you left your EGR unit on and just capped off the ports. It sounded like you ran it that way for several years. Any issues? I'd prefer to leave my unit on unless there is an advantage to taking it off? Did you eventually take it off? Any improvements? Thanks
I’m having a issue with my truck coolant leaking from my small coolant reservoir hose like if I have a blown head gasket what could be the problem or do I have a faulty EGR cooler
Great video bud. I have a 2011 with 94,000 miles and I want to do the same thing to mine. How many miles did you have on yours when you did this video? Thanks for the video and take care buddy.
i was about to ask if you think it would be worth it to buy a 2013 with 117,000 miles on it and delete it as well..I am going to assume you are happy with this setup
Man I need some advice. I deleted my truck, sinister, flo pro the whole nine yards. I bought a tune from ppei not knowing it was for a stock exhaust. I flash it once, idles like it ran outta fuel..i realize it was the wrong tune, so I flashed it back to stock. Packed it up, sent it back to ppei. Bout a proven diesel race tune from dirty diesel out of Canada. Installed the proven diesel 200hp tune. It threw codes p06a6, p2122, p0193, p0532, & P0335. Smooths out when u give gas but the codes are making it idle like shit. Reflashed it, same thing. Unhooked batteries for couple hours to reset pcm, flash back to stock, then flash the 200hp tune again, now only four codes, P0335 crankshaft sensor went away. Another guy online had 3 of my codes, changed all the sensors nothing changed, but it went away only after he took off his battery terminals. Do I need to get my pcm flashed to stock and if so, then does the tuner I have not do it fully when I install the “back to stock flash”. Any help appreciated
Were you able to get straight on those 2 broke bolts leaving the manifold on? I just ordered my egr delete and need to know what im getting myself into..lol. What all did you have to take off additionally to remedy those 2 bolts? If anything...
Tim Wilson thank goodness with a right angle drill I didn’t have to remove anything else! If you haven’t subscribed please do we are only 32 people away from 1000
Dewalt makes a very compact one. I really recommend Cle-Line drill bits they are incredible. Right now Lowes has a small pack of them on clearance so they aren’t $50 a set.
@@SolidGroundStaging Good Call!!! Nothing like going at it, all is good just about to hit your right depth and a hard steel bit break. Then its time to start all over ... But a whole different ball game !! Get ready to be sore. Is that DeWalt corded or cordless ?
Just did mine it was a bitch to get that out. Used a large pry bar on the clip on the back of the egr pryed the sensor loose then pushed back tilted and out she came. Wasn’t as trusting with a grinder as you were I guess
Great video, we were able to get the 10mm nut from under the truck with a couple ratchet extensions, swivel, and deep socket! Took 2 minutes!
The far back 10 mm on the bracket on the back of the EGR cooler from UNDER the truck? Is that the 10 mm you are referring to?
I’ll be deleting a 2012 6.7 on Monday. This is the best video I’ve found on the egr. Thank you sir!
Did you snap any bolt off?
@@justingomez1043 nope. Shock the bolts before you remove them and use lots of penetrating oil. Works like a charm.
It’s a project for sure! I did My 2011 when it had 10K miles, every bolt came out nice. Did my buddies at 180k miles, not so much, we just welded a piece into the manifold you were fighting with bolts and helicoils I need to do this to my 2017 soon, bore it gets to 20k miles.. Cheers
You ever do your 2017? I did my 19 F-250 the day I bought it. And all the bolts came off nice and easy. Every time I change my oil it still looks new.
Carl S I did my 2017 a couple months ago. At 20k miles there was plenty of soot in the pipe going to the cooler, that’s not going through the motor again. Cheers! ( Side note... one bolt in the top of the manifold took me :45 min to work out without breaking)
yellow72bronco I took a video of all the parts I took off of my truck. And with only 300 miles on the parts it was crazy how much soot was already in them. I just recently put a CCV kit on as well.
You hit the challenging tasks which some videos skip. Nice to know in advance what I am going to struggle with. Of course now Ford has switched to the new POAT coolant... thank you Ford, which is a better coolant and backwards compatible with the orange Ford coolant. It is dyed yellow, but nothing to do with old fashioned yellow coolants with silicates in them, so don't assume a Yellow coolant is POAT. Ford has discontinued the old Orange coolant and switched to modern POAT coolant. Of course you don't have to drain your primary coolant for an EGR delete (just secondary) but it was cool that you showed that Airlift system. Like you explained, you where switching out the Primary coolant cuz you needed to do it anyway. Thanks for great video.
I’m starting my egr delete tomorrow. Thanks for a great video.
Good video, I deleted my 6.7 around 35000 miles ago, left the egr cooler in place (unhooked) but am wanting to take it off, this video will help thank u
How do you leave the cooler on and delete it? Does someone make a plate to block it off and leave it stock looking? ? I am concerned with big government going nutzoid and requiring 50 emission testing and what might happen if a copper sees it is deleted. ?
@@Tom-pn5sk you can leave the egr cooler on and just install the exhaust and intake block off plates. I’ve done 2 trucks like that with no issues. Doing it that way you also don’t have to drain the coolant and it’s much quicker then removing the egr cooler itself.
Yeah I deleted mine last year and left the egr in and only unplugged it, now I am taking it off.
Extremely helpful video! I just felt like an idiot when i skipped ahead in the video you pointed at the front of the radiator and said this “basil” so I rewinded to figure out what you meant. 😂 you said “bezel” all makes sense now
If you take the passenger fender liner out and turn the wheel left you can access that back bolt on the egr easily with no hassle then all you need is a deep well 10mm and a ratchet or palm ratchet to make it a little easier
That is great to know! Thank you.
Thank you for this tip. Helped me a ton and made the job much much easier.
One thing that helped me when I took my egr cooler off and the dreaded nut on the back of the cooler, I took 3 long extensions and a deep 10mm socket from underneath the truck and was able too turn and loosen the nut enough to get the slotted bracket off. Worked very well. May help someone else
The bracket holds onto a sensor which is connected into the exhaust pipe. If you can't get to the bracket you can do what I did and just disconnect the sensor from the exhaust and reconnect after you get the EGR cooler out.
Looking for this exact type of video. Thanks!
For the bolt at the back of EGR cooler, just take the aspiration hose off by pressing white plastic clip. Then remove the sensor from the steel line to make more room. Then reach in past EGR cooler and use a 16mm stubby and remove flare nut on steel line at the turbo pipe. You don't have to go through wheel well or fight 10mm nut on back of EGR. It comes out eezy peezy and saves a fortune of time.
I needed you years ago!
What tuner are you using?
I can’t believe how overly complicated and crammed these motors have gotten, makes me really miss my old 7.3! After owning fords for 20 years I’ve switched over to the dodge / cummins strictly for simplicity and ease of repair, damn do I miss my fords tho wish they’d make a nice simple motor again like the old days.
If you think that’s bad, imagine pulling the cab off to do an engine swap. That’s just rediculous
Heat up around them bolts first maybe they won't break. Good video and good explanation!
Nice done no bad words awesome job thanks
great video! thanks for the help in advance.
I had one bolt break off in exhaust manifold. Was very careful but it seized and couldn't go in or out. Had to drill it out. I removed intake plenum to get a straight shot. It also is a good time to clean all carbon out.of intake system.
Alot of people are forgetting to unplug they're throttle valve also it is part of the EGR.
looks like his first day !!!
Thank you for the reply bud.
Where are shops like this when you need them the most
Thank you!
This is an old video and you probably know this by now but, the reason those two bolts always break off is because they are titanium. Dissimilar metals like titanium and cast iron bond with each other over time. It's a stupid design choice. Useless info unless one of your viewers is considering using titanium bolts in a cast iron project. lol
That makes perfect sense.
Not gonna lie I didnt have to do none of that shit I used a swivel and and a shit load of extensions took a strap and pulled over the exhaust pipe from the manifold with my ferris rider then took a crowbar and popped it up and took it out after all the antifreeze was done draining on the ground I used the kit and closed off all the openings they were intended for. The main line I had the hose for I took a cut off wheel and cut the factory fitting and old hose from and attached the new this took me 2hrs. I don't use a dewalt zip gun and made the mistake of breaking off a bolt on the lower side of the coolant cap off. But it's not leaking and fuck it lol
Was wondering if you could show me how you did your mini maxx? I’m not to savvy with wires. I tried to pause and see how you did it but can’t see to mugh. Thanks so much for the video! Extremely helpful
Want to know how to hook it up to the switches.. I have a2011
very informative video but i have some querries about the EGR bypass valve especially for Ford F550. i will be thankful if you can answer below 2 questions. Thanks
1.) Firstly, i would like to know the position and structure and shape of the EGR bypass valve how does it look like.
2.) Secondly, when the EGR bypass valve is closed, then the exhasut gas is bypassed directly in to the manifold. my question is when it is bypassed, then is it possible that some amount of the gas slips through the gaps around bypass valve or slips in the cooler? Or does the gas goes back?
Did you install a down pipe back exhaust or just do a delete pipe? If you did an exhaust what did you go with? How much louder is it from stock? Trying to figure out what setup I want to go with.
I put in a straight pipe and left the stock tip at the end. It surprisingly in the cab is not much different. You can hear the turbo a lot more but that is it. That is really only with the windows down.
Lmao at least I am not the only one whose MAF sensor looks like that.
Truth!
@@SolidGroundStaging
What tuner are you using?
What sensor and where from do you hook to that cover plate? My kit didn’t come with instructions
I see you left your EGR unit on and just capped off the ports. It sounded like you ran it that way for several years. Any issues? I'd prefer to leave my unit on unless there is an advantage to taking it off? Did you eventually take it off? Any improvements? Thanks
I’m having a issue with my truck coolant leaking from my small coolant reservoir hose like if I have a blown head gasket what could be the problem or do I have a faulty EGR cooler
Which sensor did you use from the dpf? Did it just plug into the harness from the factory egr sensor?
U never re use the gasket back to close tge holes with the new blue caps ?
Great video bud. I have a 2011 with 94,000 miles and I want to do the same thing to mine. How many miles did you have on yours when you did this video? Thanks for the video and take care buddy.
William Santiago it was at 175,000
i was about to ask if you think it would be worth it to buy a 2013 with 117,000 miles on it and delete it as well..I am going to assume you are happy with this setup
not worth it
yeah I am just going wait to pay my 150 off and get a new 250 or 350 diesel
Firelord360 we are very happy with everything deleted more fuel economy and better power Even in stock mode.
Can you just live with the EGR codes or is a tune needed?
So ,,, when doing either delete , when is a tuner needed?
The tuner is necessary to bypass all the sensors you have to unplug.
Awesome video. I'm getting ready to buy a kit for my 12 F350. Did you just get h&s mini maxx kit and straight pipe, or is there more to buy? Thanks!
I'm having problems removing the egr. Did you do anything to specific to break the seal on the egr to pull it out?
Daniel Mcentyre it should come off pretty easy if it’s not something is not unbolted
Ours was sealed pretty tight as well. I can’t remember exactly what we did but I did use something to help break it loose.
No check engine lights after? Is it plug and play or do you need some tuning?
Needs tuning to be done, the engine will go into limp mode and power restrictions are turned on
Do you need to remove it or can’t you just turn it off?
You do mot have to remove it. One of our trucks still has it after the delete and it is doing fine.
Thanks for the video!! About how long did the whole egr delete process take you?
“Take the Basil off the front” lmao 😂 it’s pronounced bezel.
brickson98moto it’s hard to see but there is a tiny bottle of basil on the bezel. I was more worried about it than the bezel 🧐
Man I need some advice. I deleted my truck, sinister, flo pro the whole nine yards. I bought a tune from ppei not knowing it was for a stock exhaust. I flash it once, idles like it ran outta fuel..i realize it was the wrong tune, so I flashed it back to stock. Packed it up, sent it back to ppei. Bout a proven diesel race tune from dirty diesel out of Canada. Installed the proven diesel 200hp tune. It threw codes p06a6, p2122, p0193, p0532, & P0335. Smooths out when u give gas but the codes are making it idle like shit. Reflashed it, same thing. Unhooked batteries for couple hours to reset pcm, flash back to stock, then flash the 200hp tune again, now only four codes, P0335 crankshaft sensor went away. Another guy online had 3 of my codes, changed all the sensors nothing changed, but it went away only after he took off his battery terminals. Do I need to get my pcm flashed to stock and if so, then does the tuner I have not do it fully when I install the “back to stock flash”. Any help appreciated
Maddy Eldin you will have to more than likely have to get it flashed with IDS the ford software
Regen Diesel Repair, LLC thanks for the response. Would I be able to take out my pcm and get it flashed, or will they need the whole truck there?
Thats what I run my tunes through is Dirty Diesel Customs outta Canada. No issues whatsoever. I am currently using a 100 HP Tow Tune.
what tuner did you use and did you get a custom tune?
Do you have to drain all the coolant ?
It is a lot cleaner if you do.
How much would someone charge me to do mine, I’m in cincinnati
Were you able to get straight on those 2 broke bolts leaving the manifold on? I just ordered my egr delete and need to know what im getting myself into..lol. What all did you have to take off additionally to remedy those 2 bolts? If anything...
Tim Wilson thank goodness with a right angle drill I didn’t have to remove anything else! If you haven’t subscribed please do we are only 32 people away from 1000
@@SolidGroundStaging Subcribed !!!!!! Aight right angle drill shopping I go ..lol
Dewalt makes a very compact one. I really recommend Cle-Line drill bits they are incredible. Right now Lowes has a small pack of them on clearance so they aren’t $50 a set.
@@SolidGroundStaging Good Call!!! Nothing like going at it, all is good just about to hit your right depth and a hard steel bit break. Then its time to start all over ... But a whole different ball game !! Get ready to be sore. Is that DeWalt corded or cordless ?
Tim Wilson cordless we have a use for it all the time 20V and not very heavy.
I had the same trouble with the two bolts breaking. How did you end up getting them out?
Finz Twins TV sadly had to use a heli coil on one and retap the other after drilling them out.
I am in southeast Tx. Don't know any GOOD diesel mechanics Would you consider doing my 2017 6.7 ?
Gary Amy if we didn’t have so many concerts and things to do here I probably would :)
Gary Amy you can do this yourself. It's the easiest thing ever
Twisted performance in Silsbee TX
@Bob Smithereens how much did that run ya
you wanna do another 2015 f250 in bham? def dpf? IM on FB if so
😂 our two were enough.
Alabama? I'm in Auburn.
I cant get my pyro/heat sensor off of tube .... what should I do... order a new one or I heard of someone takimg one off dpf just don't know wich one
We just used one of the ones off of the dpf and carry another one as a spare with us.
that's what I did.. thanks working good
@@SolidGroundStaging where does it plug back into?
I wouldn't have put stainless bolts on there for anything......
They aren’t stainless
Its honesty not that hard to get out. That bolt in the back is fairly easy after the first couple of times.
Josiah Barthen agreed the second truck I did was very easy. This one for some reason was cross threaded and nearly seized.
@@SolidGroundStaging I concur. I've had many from the factory with messed up threads
Does the bolt have to be that long? If it didn't I would cut some off so nut could go on faster.
Just did mine it was a bitch to get that out. Used a large pry bar on the clip on the back of the egr pryed the sensor loose then pushed back tilted and out she came. Wasn’t as trusting with a grinder as you were I guess
Chris Klein I’m glad you were able to get it out.
Dude. Could you talk just a bit louder in your videos?
3 words “flex head gearwrench”
That’s one of the many things we tried. The nut had been cross threaded on the all thread.
Not the front basil lol
7
e
More confused now then before watching the video wtf
dirtbikesforlifebrah me too! The truck runs great though.
Cummins way easier
speak up a little :)
boring
Speak up