You can also tap new holes just to the side of the broken off bolts and reorient things if you're not going to be re-installing the EGR tube...like when you would be replacing it with a block-of plate (for off-road purposes only). I did that when both of mine broke off flush. I used regular Dewalt drill bits and a cheap Chinese tap (which, although accomplished the job, it twisted up pretty good from the torque applied to tap the new holes). The metal of the manifold itself isn't that hard to drill..its the factory bolts that are super hard to drill through.
Boy, I could have used that yesterday. I spent an hour and a half heating and shooting those bolt with lube, pulled as much off as possible to get clear access. With 30 years experience as tech I like to think I am a master at getting bolts out but those two wouldn't give. The worst is there is no twist shear feeling, they just snap and it's is a *&#$^$ moment when they do. I ended up drilling and tapping them out to 5/6 and drilling out the pipe and gaskets a to accommodate the larger hardware. It's a brutal drill and tap when you know how much work it is to pull the manifold. I will be picking that kit up to install the inserts next time around when the cooler plugs. Thanks for the video.
I am an airframe mechanic, and use drills, bushings, inserts, and helicoils quite often, and even I am sketch about doing it on my manifold. Not to mention, I believe those bolts are titanium, and unless you have the cobalt drill bits, it's harder than trigonometry to drill.
Very good work. I broke BOTH of my bolts even after soaking for a week. I really wish I had this kit. I drilled the broken bolt but the bit slid maybe 1/16th to 1/8th inch over and ended up drilling next to the bolt (I couldn’t keep the bit centered on the broken bolt). I then drilled the second bolt intentionally 1/16th to 1/8th offset to align my replacement piece. I then put in new threads in my drilled holes. I used the existing Ford metal gasket with a little high temp exhaust gasket sealer and my new part sealed up nice and tight. I hope I never have to take it off because I’m afraid it won’t seal up a second time. 2014 F-250 6.7 with 36,000 miles at the time.
Wow must be the week for broken exhaust bolts. I am replacing a right side Cat on a 2014 Chrysler 300 HEMI and the bolt broke off in the flange. Thank heavens it was the easy side to drill and tap.
Can you replace those bolts with those that have shorter thread engagement? Not sure why those bolt threads are sooo long. The same amount of clamping force could have been achieved with a larger diameter bolt from the start and reduced the possibility of this situation. Would you advise just drilling and tapping for a larger bolt at the first removal? Thanks for your videos great stuff!!
Great video brother. Should definitely have repair or something put in the title. These bolts are the ones that break the most, even on brand new trucks. Awesome bro!
Egads bro string of '15 superDs troubles of recent. Cool product really nice fix, I would've been sweating bullets doing this fix, would've lost 5 pounds.
Craig Tomczyk give it time, it will go down. Like how the spark plug remover for the 5.4 used to cost 300 bucks back in the early days. Now you can find it for under 100.00
Awesome video sir. Very informative and you work neat. I don't know if you said where you bought that kit and how much it cost but where can I buy this kit and how much is it? Thank you for the video and keep up the good work bud. Take care.
To make matters worse, those bolts are non-ferrous. Which means having a case of the "dropsies" when working in that area is a not a good thing because a magnet is not going to do you any good in that situation. Our local broken fastener extractor advises simply giving the head of that bolt a good dead on WHACK before attempting to crack loose. It seems those bolts are exposed to some very extreme thermal cycling is what I'm told that causes this common occurrence. A little off topic but I notice the subject vehicle is a '15 model year F-550. If you don't mind me asking, what were you doing to it, that you needed to remove the EGR pipe? If I'm not mistaken, '15 is the model year Ford discontinued running the secondary cooling system through the EGR cooler housing with the intention to address the issue of EGR cooler cores plugging up the one core, and causing P0401 and sometimes P2457 DTCs to set. I know I've replaced more than my share of these cores for that very reason, but I have yet to replace one on a '15 or newer model year.
+Michael Chan ive done many 15's and 16's too. They are all the same broski. I do wack them, but when that doesnt work, they bust which leads me to this video. I had 2 replace the egr valve for a P2201. Have done multiple valves for this issue. New updated PC/ED pin point tests lead to replace the valve. Have had some break and some go no problem. Just did 1 last week, everything came out no prob!
Removing the secondary cooling system route from the EGR cooler allowed the charge air cooler to have less heat load on it...cooler temps...more power...which is what you got in 2015 trucks. Yes, I realize the updated turbo was the biggest thing for more power, but that is my theory why Ford removed the secondary from the egr cooler.
Looks like you had enough room to put a little heat on that manifold before trying to break it loose... did you heat it first or try breaking it with a hot manifold any other tricks to getting them out?
+John DiMartino +John DiMartino nope nit kther than this kit and smackin my extension with a hammer then work it back n forth. Mostly do this repair on cab chassis, picks up, maybe 1, 2.....
Wouldn’t it just be easier to replace with new manifolds? The bolts break and the manifolds leak anyways. BD manifolds are the price or less of that jig.
we're do you order this kit I had this problem when I was doing my delete.i just used a drill and a rethread kit from oreillys.worked great so far it's beem about a year and 25,000 miles ago.seems too have worked only problems is I drilled it a little off center and crooked.would have loved too had this kit.
I thought the world just ended when mine happened.i actually got the bolts out it was a little back and fourth action and I was like yeah they said I would snap a bolt.i didn't.i was going back together when I snapped it.last bolt going in just put a little on it and snap.i freaking lost my mind.
+Cody Baker ughhhhh ive done how many 6.7's never had it happened. I have a little method to crackin em loose. This is the 3rd bolt i have broken. 2 trucks so far...
Now be honest, I bet you said a few 5- 10 letter words when you heard that clink sound a boat makes when it snaps off!! Lmfao just joking with you brother , thanks for sharing
PowerStroke Tech Talk w/ARod you are absolutely right , it just makes you even more flustered , I am glad you are back to showing, I've learned heaps from you sir
Hey Arod, Klint here! Got same issue today and checked with snap on and cost was around $500.00! Did you buy your own because the shop would not? I take it I won't find this tool in our "essential tool kits"? Will this tool end up paying you back in time? Take care ol' wise one.
+Steve Mazzarella you gotta check their site out. They got 1 for removing the broken fuel injector hold down without removing the head....6.4 turbo broken bolts, got a plate for that too. Tell Jeff there, I sent you!!!
Dude!!!! Where do you get those life saving chest pads from? The snap on ones work ok but they start falling apart quick! Awesome watching a fellow power stroke tech . I work at an independent shop so I haven’t got to do a lot of work to the 6.7 but lots and lots and lots 6.0 work
+Blake James lol thanks for tunin in Blake!!!!! They are actually work out pads that i sewed together with zip-ties so that i could get 3 or 4 together.
True, but if you're going to only do it one time then I can see where that would be a lot of money I've had to use this tool like 10 times so it has paid for itself over and over and over
PowerStroke Tech Talk w/ARod Total understand, time is money when you're on flat rate. I'm going delete my 13' F350 egr. So I'm only doing it one time. The kit looks like it will thought out.
If Ford never built aluminum diesels or any diesels for that matter. They should first copy others. European manufacturers electroplate their hardware. Or use studs and nuts, like Toyota does. Once bi-metal corrosion starts your screwed. Engineering arrogance on Ford's part is a costly mistake.
34k mi, these trucks are junk, when will ford build better products and stop playing the blame game. This sucks. What would we do with these great techs repairing our trucks. These manufacturers are keeping us hostage and for those that say there's a way to beat the system, good luck. When will they design a better egr? Never, Ford has us by the balls.
Wow, amazing repair jig kit. Thanks for the video.
You can also tap new holes just to the side of the broken off bolts and reorient things if you're not going to be re-installing the EGR tube...like when you would be replacing it with a block-of plate (for off-road purposes only). I did that when both of mine broke off flush. I used regular Dewalt drill bits and a cheap Chinese tap (which, although accomplished the job, it twisted up pretty good from the torque applied to tap the new holes). The metal of the manifold itself isn't that hard to drill..its the factory bolts that are super hard to drill through.
Boy, I could have used that yesterday. I spent an hour and a half heating and shooting those bolt with lube, pulled as much off as possible to get clear access. With 30 years experience as tech I like to think I am a master at getting bolts out but those two wouldn't give. The worst is there is no twist shear feeling, they just snap and it's is a *&#$^$ moment when they do. I ended up drilling and tapping them out to 5/6 and drilling out the pipe and gaskets a to accommodate the larger hardware. It's a brutal drill and tap when you know how much work it is to pull the manifold. I will be picking that kit up to install the inserts next time around when the cooler plugs. Thanks for the video.
You call promaxx & tell Delarosa you know PTT!!
I am an airframe mechanic, and use drills, bushings, inserts, and helicoils quite often, and even I am sketch about doing it on my manifold. Not to mention, I believe those bolts are titanium, and unless you have the cobalt drill bits, it's harder than trigonometry to drill.
I've done 4 of these, and thankfully never broken. I use some penetrant and heat, and an impact gun. So far so good. 🤞🏽
I was too until my luck finally went out......get ready cuz ull be doin em toooooo
Very good work. I broke BOTH of my bolts even after soaking for a week. I really wish I had this kit.
I drilled the broken bolt but the bit slid maybe 1/16th to 1/8th inch over and ended up drilling next to the bolt (I couldn’t keep the bit centered on the broken bolt).
I then drilled the second bolt intentionally 1/16th to 1/8th offset to align my replacement piece. I then put in new threads in my drilled holes.
I used the existing Ford metal gasket with a little high temp exhaust gasket sealer and my new part sealed up nice and tight. I hope I never have to take it off because I’m afraid it won’t seal up a second time.
2014 F-250 6.7 with 36,000 miles at the time.
Dang brotha...yea ive done a BUNCH of these. That tool company just sent me some tools but i do not have any broken trucks to play with 🥺
That kit is really nice... Another great video.... Thanks
Boy u always make it look so easy. U do good work.
Thanks dude
Great video! There's a lot of value here! Thanks brother!
I hope I don't have to experience this repair.
Good job ARod.
Wow old video thanks for coming thru pal
You make it look so easy. Good video.
I would much rather see a way to AVOID breaking that bolt than having to buy a $500 tool I'm only gonna use once.
Another great video. Nice repair kit!
Wow must be the week for broken exhaust bolts. I am replacing a right side Cat on a 2014 Chrysler 300 HEMI and the bolt broke off in the flange. Thank heavens it was the easy side to drill and tap.
+bill beckett christ, i feel ya
Great info. Thanks for the video!
Can you replace those bolts with those that have shorter thread engagement? Not sure why those bolt threads are sooo long. The same amount of clamping force could have been achieved with a larger diameter bolt from the start and reduced the possibility of this situation. Would you advise just drilling and tapping for a larger bolt at the first removal?
Thanks for your videos great stuff!!
I suppose u cld
Great video brother. Should definitely have repair or something put in the title. These bolts are the ones that break the most, even on brand new trucks. Awesome bro!
+Matthew Deinhardt thanks bud!!!!
Egads bro string of '15 superDs troubles of recent. Cool product really nice fix, I would've been sweating bullets doing this fix, would've lost 5 pounds.
+SleeperBeamer hahaha i bet
Same thing happened to me pulled plenum intake manifold off used my King kut drill bits drill out broken bolts And re- tapped them
Love the design of that kit. Just can't see paying the $500+ for it though.
Craig Tomczyk give it time, it will go down. Like how the spark plug remover for the 5.4 used to cost 300 bucks back in the early days. Now you can find it for under 100.00
@LynxStarAuto i think your wrong 😢 😆
@@aaronphillips2728he was it’s still 500$
Have you ever seen a snipe kit. Search snipe bolt extractor kit. I think they are the best tool out there for general broken bolt removal.
+y2kxj lol, i jst did the same job again today...ill have to chk it out thanks.
Pro max seems to make great tools. I have used the ones for broken exhaust bolts for Ford and GM V-8s. Definitely worth the money!
+James Peters they sure are!!!
I didn't read the instructions. I watched this video.
🤷♂️🤷♂️
I'm doing the same thing with my fricking EGR valve housing
And exhaust manifold studs
Awesome video sir. Very informative and you work neat. I don't know if you said where you bought that kit and how much it cost but where can I buy this kit and how much is it? Thank you for the video and keep up the good work bud. Take care.
Thanks bud, i appreciate that. The tool is ProMaxx, for broken 6.7 egr bolts. Cost was about 500-550
Thank you so much for the fast response.
No prob bob
To make matters worse, those bolts are non-ferrous. Which means having a case of the "dropsies" when working in that area is a not a good thing because a magnet is not going to do you any good in that situation. Our local broken fastener extractor advises simply giving the head of that bolt a good dead on WHACK before attempting to crack loose. It seems those bolts are exposed to some very extreme thermal cycling is what I'm told that causes this common occurrence.
A little off topic but I notice the subject vehicle is a '15 model year F-550. If you don't mind me asking, what were you doing to it, that you needed to remove the EGR pipe? If I'm not mistaken, '15 is the model year Ford discontinued running the secondary cooling system through the EGR cooler housing with the intention to address the issue of EGR cooler cores plugging up the one core, and causing P0401 and sometimes P2457 DTCs to set. I know I've replaced more than my share of these cores for that very reason, but I have yet to replace one on a '15 or newer model year.
+Michael Chan ive done many 15's and 16's too. They are all the same broski. I do wack them, but when that doesnt work, they bust which leads me to this video. I had 2 replace the egr valve for a P2201. Have done multiple valves for this issue. New updated PC/ED pin point tests lead to replace the valve. Have had some break and some go no problem. Just did 1 last week, everything came out no prob!
Removing the secondary cooling system route from the EGR cooler allowed the charge air cooler to have less heat load on it...cooler temps...more power...which is what you got in 2015 trucks. Yes, I realize the updated turbo was the biggest thing for more power, but that is my theory why Ford removed the secondary from the egr cooler.
Looks like you had enough room to put a little heat on that manifold before trying to break it loose... did you heat it first or try breaking it with a hot manifold any other tricks to getting them out?
+John DiMartino +John DiMartino nope nit kther than this kit and smackin my extension with a hammer then work it back n forth. Mostly do this repair on cab chassis, picks up, maybe 1, 2.....
Did you source the PROMax locally, from the tool truck, or did you have to order and wait? Good fix to a crappy situation. 👍
+Grumpy's Garage had to order n wait. Over nighted from PA. just did the same job yesterday.
When putting this back together what is the tork spec for these 2 bolt
Snug em up wit ¼ drive shit, you'll be just fine...
Wouldn’t it just be easier to replace with new manifolds? The bolts break and the manifolds leak anyways. BD manifolds are the price or less of that jig.
Sounds like you should keep doing them how you're doing them
we're do you order this kit I had this problem when I was doing my delete.i just used a drill and a rethread kit from oreillys.worked great so far it's beem about a year and 25,000 miles ago.seems too have worked only problems is I drilled it a little off center and crooked.would have loved too had this kit.
+Cody Baker ProMAXX tools, look em up. Tell Jeff Aaron sent you!!!
PowerStroke Tech Talk w/ARod thanks sure will
Awesome job on the repair! Do you get paid extra for when that crap happens?
+joe blow thank you, yes have to get customers ok first be4 i proceed
On the cross over pipe that runs to the cooler. Where does that manifold lead from?
What ya mean
I thought the world just ended when mine happened.i actually got the bolts out it was a little back and fourth action and I was like yeah they said I would snap a bolt.i didn't.i was going back together when I snapped it.last bolt going in just put a little on it and snap.i freaking lost my mind.
+Cody Baker ughhhhh ive done how many 6.7's never had it happened. I have a little method to crackin em loose. This is the 3rd bolt i have broken. 2 trucks so far...
Now be honest, I bet you said a few 5- 10 letter words when you heard that clink sound a boat makes when it snaps off!! Lmfao just joking with you brother , thanks for sharing
+Jack Caldwell yepp, 5 or so words later was just....ahh well i gotta show the guys. Aint no use throwin a fit!
PowerStroke Tech Talk w/ARod you are absolutely right , it just makes you even more flustered , I am glad you are back to showing, I've learned heaps from you sir
+Jack Caldwell thanks Jack 4 the feed back. I really helps me to appreciate the content i put out for you all to enjoy.
He said have to do that one next time so he knows that the EGR is going to have issues again in the
I see you love those engine to make big money hahaha
Love em!
@@PowerStrokeTechTalkwARod keep the good work
Hey Arod, Klint here! Got same issue today and checked with snap on and cost was around $500.00! Did you buy your own because the shop would not? I take it I won't find this tool in our "essential tool kits"? Will this tool end up paying you back in time? Take care ol' wise one.
+klint duin what up klint!!!! PM me, i need 2 give you some info!!
So does every 6.7 come with a nest in the valley?
Most do
Every single one that I have worked on. Without fail was a former rodent home of some sort.
Haha most deff
I just drill it out with an angle drill then retap with the same size with out removing the intake
How ever if I worked for a diesel or ford shop I’d definitely spring for this kit
How much was the tool??? Looks like it was made well
+Steve Mazzarella 4 bennys, worth err penny
PowerStroke Tech Talk w/ARod I want one too!!!
+Steve Mazzarella you gotta check their site out. They got 1 for removing the broken fuel injector hold down without removing the head....6.4 turbo broken bolts, got a plate for that too. Tell Jeff there, I sent you!!!
PowerStroke Tech Talk w/ARod I will thanks... im a tool junky and I need a fix...
+Steve Mazzarella they are great tools, id HIGHLY recommend. Customers love to come back to techs that can help them save money in no need repairs
Dude!!!! Where do you get those life saving chest pads from? The snap on ones work ok but they start falling apart quick! Awesome watching a fellow power stroke tech . I work at an independent shop so I haven’t got to do a lot of work to the 6.7 but lots and lots and lots 6.0 work
+Blake James lol thanks for tunin in Blake!!!!! They are actually work out pads that i sewed together with zip-ties so that i could get 3 or 4 together.
Sweet appreciate the reply I’ll try Walmart in the morning
Can you post a link to that kit?
www.promaxxtool.com/product/11
I look on the website for the kit. $500 that's a lot of money.
True, but if you're going to only do it one time then I can see where that would be a lot of money I've had to use this tool like 10 times so it has paid for itself over and over and over
PowerStroke Tech Talk w/ARod Total understand, time is money when you're on flat rate. I'm going delete my 13' F350 egr. So I'm only doing it one time. The kit looks like it will thought out.
PowerStroke Tech Talk w/ARod Thanks for the offer, if I get in trouble. I’ll send you a message.
Would using high temp anti seize ( copper anti seize ) prevent the bolts breaking off again?
No. Adding that to, two dis-similar metals will NOT prevent that...
I bet some cursing and anger came out. I get that way as well.
+Brian Skinner lolol
Russian bolt
Brokenoff
Chris K. Lol
If Ford never built aluminum diesels or any diesels for that matter. They should first copy others.
European manufacturers electroplate their hardware.
Or use studs and nuts, like Toyota does.
Once bi-metal corrosion starts your screwed.
Engineering arrogance on Ford's part is a costly mistake.
So buy this tool first then attempt to do your EGR cooler! 🤷♂️
Great it's $500 bucks for the tool I'll use once, Lol.
Dont take the cooler off then...
@@PowerStrokeTechTalkwARod Just messing around. I'll get that bolt out! 🤞✌
34k mi, these trucks are junk, when will ford build better products and stop playing the blame game. This sucks.
What would we do with these great techs repairing our trucks.
These manufacturers are keeping us hostage and for those that say there's a way to beat the system, good luck.
When will they design a better egr? Never, Ford has us by the balls.
🤷♂️