Bedding In Motorcycle Brake Pads & Rotors
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 4 ต.ค. 2024
- www.DaveMossTuning.com
We installed new brake pads and honed the rotors on our 2005 Trash or Treasure Suzuki GSX-R750. Dave enjoys some "bedding in" before he drops the hammer.
www.DaveMossTuning.com
A full video again!! Thanks Dave!
You bet!
Hey Dave. I am surprised the Service Manual for my application clearly discusses brake caliper removal, brake pad removal, piston removal, fluid seals and dust seals removal, brake discs (rotors) removal, reassembly for all to include torque specs and sequences, but offer NO PROCESS on properly bedding new pads to rotors for one of the most important components on a bike for safety. Amazing.
That is very off when it offers you a complete overview and overhaul. I'll assume that they believe you will follow the pad manufacturers recommendations.
I keep this same brake in philosophy in mind when coming off a highway and down the offramp. Staying hard on the brake when coming to a full complete stop can build up uneven brake pad material on your disc rotor leading to the sensation of warped rotors.
And after you have done all this it's time for new brake pads :-)
Next week new brake pads on my cbf1000 abs. Thanks for the work Dave!
Glad to help!
I know this is an oldie! However the principle hasn’t changed with time. I actually hated new brake pads on my “Superbike” of a forgotten era being a GSXR-750. When my racing team and I decided to change the front pads I was always told to bed them in. Bed then in with aggressive braking (obviously after a few slow laps to see where the bite point was).
Brembo recommend that you fully clean the rotors with scotchbrite pads and brake cleaner when fitting new pads.
You should also clean new discs as they often have a protective coating.
Gradually increasing the pressure/speed over 50 miles ish, with no harsh/emergency brake (unless required obviously).
It was described to me (many years ago) as seasoning your brakes not cooking them.
You do moderate stops. I was taught the stops should be nearly an emergency type stop. I was always concerned about cooking , warping the discs.
I want to transfer material as evenly as possible via heat and friction leveraging duration. I have had excellent success with that method over the last decade with all rotors and pads.
@@catalystreactionsbw that makes perfect sense! I will try your technique... makes more sense that killing the pads and rotors out of the box.
I was told stopping completely would cause all the material that is being removed/bedded too come off the pads and stick into one spot on the rotor. Idk, I have just always done what's in the video and don't come to a complete stop
I grew up light scuffing the pad & rotors with sandpaper before installation.
Guess I was wrong all these daze
I did the same 30 years ago. As always with time, there are improvements with technology and changes in practices.
In the ebc manual
Just learned Something New,, Thanks Dave..So its 10 × @ 50/65/80 km both front and Back Correct ? And all that at App %50/60 of Pressure..?
Yes, correct. Feel the pads and rotors grip and the front and rear will dip, let go and repeat. The key lesson is feeling the pads grip the rotors so you get a 2 for 1, pad grip levels and a lesson on pressure and duration.
@@catalystreactionsbw Thank You,,Well Explained,,You are One of the Most Punctual and Responsive guys I've Ever Met and there Really aren't Many ..Always Grateful for your time Sir.
@@paulhorvath9784 Thanks for supporting my work Paul.
Couldn't you bed the front and rear at the same time?
Do you think this procedure help with pad squeal that's prevalent on especially new Triumph's equipped with Brembo Rotors, Discs and Pads? I did do something similar and it seemed to help but sometimes a light squeal returns at parking lot speeds.
Squeal is normally generated on the brake pin if their is a groove present and the pad vibrates. Have you checked the pin for wear? Some pads will come with a backing plate.
Does this only apply for new pads and rotors, or can it also help older brakes that are not operating smoothly?
If I were you and braking doesn't feel smooth or maybe on/off I'd check to see if your rotors are warped first.
This applies if you change pads or sand your rotors. Older brakes not performing well can be old fluid, stuck pistons(s), caliper alignment incorrect or rotors not true.
Dave I need your help! How many turns is the factory range for rebound on the Gsxr 600 K7 forks? I have 3.5 in my head for some reason but I can’t find it anywhere.
Thanks W
what a timing lol, doing this tomorrow as well
edit: did you ride smoothly for 100 miles before doing the break in procedure ? also could you show a before and after comparison in the next vid ?
This process was done immediately on quiet roads so I could concentrate and perform the skill set correctly. The process on track is no different. Taking the time to bed everything in correctly immediately ensures that in an emergency you have maximum potential for stopping.
@Darkizo, here between us, for sure one of the Daves have something recorded on the before and after procedure. Would be awesome. Just saying 😉
But yeah, this bed in procedure is the "gentle 100miles ride" compressed, fast forwarded and should no be ignored.
Brakes fall into the "rather have and not need than need and not have" category and if with that comes longevity, better!
Does the factory do this? If not, should new bike owners?
Every new bike delivered from any dealership has very few miles/kms on it. We are responsible for tire and brake pads. It is no different than the day we ode the bike home. Planning and forethought get the task accomplished successfully.
What about having an extra set of wheels for track days, is bedding after every swap practical?
I do the bed in procedure for each set of wheels (I have 2 for testing), then I am done until I decide to clan the rotors again.
What if I’m at the track, replace the pads and don’t bed the brakes? What issues does this cause?
Generally glazing - almost mirror finish on the face of the pads. You remove it by figure of 8 method on the ground or gently face it with 400 grit emery cloth.
Dude no way would I use Volar pads, I’ve seen many of their chains snap definitely wouldn’t risk my life with their pads
Thank you for sharing your POV!
I'm afraid of doing it because the last time i bedded in new rotor and new brake pads, the front forks became "soft" on application of front brakes. Too much hard braking in a short time caused the oil to deteriorate?
Perhaps there is a different perspective. Much more braking efficiency with new pads created more braking force = softer suspension feeling.
@@catalystreactionsbw No. It seemed like something deteriorated. When i braked, it was so soft it was dangerous. The bike needed more distance to brake safely. There was a lot of fork travel.
After that, I went to the workshop to get the fork fluid changed and it was better, lesser fork travel, not as "soft" as before.
@@wakaoeh Then look at adding more preload and compression damping so you have less dive.
@@catalystreactionsbw My forks are very basic. No options for preload and compression damping. Only the fork oil and springs inside.
@@wakaoeh You might be able to get preload caps from eBay that give you 15-20mm preload as they replace your stock caps.
How do you do this on a track bike? I’ve got carbon pads to go in and it’s safe to say I’m a bit nervous about using them🤷🏼
Use 400 grit in an X pattern on the rotors so you scuff it and clean them meticulously. With carbon pads you need to bed them in on track so long duration with 50-60% pressure gets plenty of heat to create material transfer. Session 2 at 80% speed with long duration and session 3 be at pace.
@@catalystreactionsbw thanks for you reply. Very much appreciated 🙏
Paul, also just be careful after bedding them in be aware that they will feel bad cold make sure you get heat into them before you go steaming into a corner!
@@Tom-us8cg do you think I’ll be better off with the sbs sintered track pads? I have ebc hh at the moment
@@paulthompson9294 I use HH on my road bike and at the track in Advanced. I really like the progressive feel so I can choose brake pressure and duration.
All my new bikes have ZERO miles on them....otherwise I would NOT buy from that dealership
Only people of a certain age will understand the etc etc etc...
there is a bed in procedure for brake pads? bruh I just ride it and accept that the breaks will be crummy for the first bit, and if it takes a very long time to bed in I know it's time for new rotors with the next pads. I don't see how a structured brake-in would do anything different than just riding it.
Mr Moss has a very meticulous approach to riding a motorcycle, you could even call it anal. Not saying he's wrong, just take it with a pinch of salt.
Do as you choose Nick. I need to know my brake pads and rotors are ready to go in case of an emergency, street or track. I want that right away, so I choose not to roll the dice. We all have different methods - just sharing mine.
I just bought Volar HH Sintered brake pads. They look gd especially for the price.
So what is exactly the process of the number of times to do front then rear then both together..? Is it 30 mph x 10 40 mph x 10 and then 50 mph x 10 then both together x 10. ??? Thank you @DaveMoss and other Dave. :)
Oh so it's 13 × each. I got it.