Hey, recent subscriber. I just learned that a bunch of Brembo calipers are all largely the same - usually 108mm and once in a while 100mm and 110mm, stud to stud (radial). The distance from the wheel hub changes to accommodate disc sizes, so your bracket or spacing changes bike-to-bike, but not much else, and sometimes they just plop right in, no nothing needed. I'm putting (having put on, be real here) Cafe's on my bike this weekend thru next and I'm blown away that I even could. I always assumed that each bike took it's own specific part number of caliper, like a car might. Come to find out, almost everybody went with 108mm, just different sized discs and spacing. So if you have a weird bike, or a new bike and they don't make anything yet, if you mind your pot sizes, and you know your dimensions AND find a complementary master, you can put 'bos on a bike that didn't used to have them. Support your local machine shop. They can do your spacer up in like a day. The bad news is it's fronts only and its well over $1,000, lines, calipers and master.
To add to that, the majority of Jap bikes are 108mm and Euro bikes are 100mm. Apart from an older r1, which is 130mm. A good aftermarket setup would be the Brembo GP4 caliper range, RCS19 Corsa Corta, abs delete and depending on use, z04 pads for high performance track use or other brembo pads for street use.
To my understanding break pads are always partially touching the rotors and are never truly cold. I do not think I have ever spun a wheel and not kinda heard the pads lightly rubbing. Great information.
@@slicedcube The square-ring hydraulic seal inside the bore of your calliper acts as a return spring (it twists outwards when you apply pressure, and untwists when you let go, pulling back the piston a tiny bit). If your pistons are sticking, then for whatever reason the seals aren't able to retract them. That may be because they're old and stiff (some decades in service will do that to a seal) or because there's dirt in the bore between the cylinder and piston walls. That dirt is usually brake dust that didn't get cleaned off the pistons at the last pad change. There _is_ a forward seal that's meant to keep brake dust out, but if it's stuck to the piston well enough and you force it back in without cleaning it, that seal has no chance. In both cases diagnosis is the same - pull the calliper off, get the pads out, apply some brake lever displacement and let go. You should see the piston(s) that pushed out pull back in maybe half a mm. If it doesn't, then it's sticking. Doesn't matter why it's sticking either, in both cases you need to strip the calliper, clean the bore(s) and piston(s), replace all the seals (if one's gone, the rest will follow) and GENTLY push the piston(s) back in. With brake pistons, they need to be lubricated with ONLY brake fluid on their way in. Once they're in the bore and making contact with both seals it's OK to apply a thin layer of silicone grease to the last 10-20 mm that end up sticking out. That'll keep moisture off the piston and can easily be scraped off by the dust seal, but it should never be allowed to mix with the brake fluid inside the cylinder.
FWIW I used OEM Yamaha sintered pads on my OEM brakes on my R1 and it took 110,000 miles before the MOT inspector insisted that it was time to change the discs. So I don't think that brake wear is _that_ much of an issue even with high-performance pads. I have lost track of how many sets of pads I went through in that time, I would guess at least 10 but it's such a quick and easy job that it doesn't really register.
Brembo have this handy-dandy little graph on their website showing how different pad compounds' frictiom coefficient varies with temperature. One of those compounds had an almost completely flat responce acroas the board. From a usabilify and rideability perspective that's the optimum solution. Those brakes will feel exactly the same no matter what. Nothinf inspires more confidence in a system than consistent performance like that. That particular compound hasn't got the highest coefficient of friction, so they recommend it moatly for atreet use, but I say it's just as good for the track. As far as lever feel and overall "power"... you can tune that with the right master cylinder. Any radial unit will feel infinitely better than the stock axial, delivering more precision and control. Sizing it correctly will deliver the right feel and most usable braking "power". The Brembo RCS line is good for that, it offers an adjustment equivalent to about 10% of overall mechanical advantage. The corsa corta feature is neat, but to me it doesn't bring enough benefit to justify the added cost of those units. If I had to buy again, I'd stick with the regular RCS.
I’ve used organic pads I think they cause the disc to overheat and warp, it happened both front and back when I replaced them both with organic, they also ware away in a matter of weeks
disagree with sintered pads warming up fast, i swapped the sintered to organics on my RGV250 as they took about 15 minutes of normal riding to warm up, the organics seemed to work fine from the first pull. Can't beat the stopping power of the sintered once they were warmed up though.
I'd rather change organic pads more often, than changing the rotors more frequently from being worn down by sintered pads. I think it will be a lot cheaper in the long run...
Another benefit of the pads wearing more often is that your calliper pistons get pushed back more often reducing the chance of them getting seized out.
Great video. But Silicon and Ceramics are not organic chemicals. For a chemical/compound to be ‘organic’ it must have carbon in it. Organic pads are largely made of graphite. Plus all the other stuff, such as silicon, ceramics and some metal particles. I spent far too long as a science teacher to keep my mouth shut at times like this. Anyway…. Great stuff 👍
I doubt a normal person could tell the diffrence on the road not track.....if youre braking that hard all the time.then youre ridings hectic......the main thing is with all brakes.is to maintain them.keep them clean and avoid stuck pistons
Glass and ceramic are NOT organic...in fact in "organic" break pads, the vast majority of the components is NOT organic. It's more a reference to the bonding agent BETWEEN the particules. And going cheap on break components is not an option for a real bike...
Those are in fact organic. There 2 types of elements. Metals and nonmetals. Non metals are organic. Silica dioxide is used to make glass and ceramics which are both organic elements. And then the resin that bines it all together is made up of more non metal/ organic elements. Which makes the whole thing organic.
I just use my foot as our ancestors intended, full organic, kinda hard on the knees though. lol
Haha thanks Mr Flintstone
@@ChaosCauses it took me a while to undestand...lol
These explaining videos teach me so much i never knew every time i love it! Cheers man
Hey, recent subscriber. I just learned that a bunch of Brembo calipers are all largely the same - usually 108mm and once in a while 100mm and 110mm, stud to stud (radial). The distance from the wheel hub changes to accommodate disc sizes, so your bracket or spacing changes bike-to-bike, but not much else, and sometimes they just plop right in, no nothing needed. I'm putting (having put on, be real here) Cafe's on my bike this weekend thru next and I'm blown away that I even could.
I always assumed that each bike took it's own specific part number of caliper, like a car might. Come to find out, almost everybody went with 108mm, just different sized discs and spacing. So if you have a weird bike, or a new bike and they don't make anything yet, if you mind your pot sizes, and you know your dimensions AND find a complementary master, you can put 'bos on a bike that didn't used to have them.
Support your local machine shop. They can do your spacer up in like a day. The bad news is it's fronts only and its well over $1,000, lines, calipers and master.
To add to that, the majority of Jap bikes are 108mm and Euro bikes are 100mm. Apart from an older r1, which is 130mm.
A good aftermarket setup would be the Brembo GP4 caliper range, RCS19 Corsa Corta, abs delete and depending on use, z04 pads for high performance track use or other brembo pads for street use.
To my understanding break pads are always partially touching the rotors and are never truly cold. I do not think I have ever spun a wheel and not kinda heard the pads lightly rubbing. Great information.
dont they form screeches on disc? to the point, my brake pads have worn out just around 3k mi, i was thinking of readjusting to slight gap
@@slicedcube im not sure how you will adjust them to a gap, hydraulic brakes are self adjusting.
@@slicedcube The square-ring hydraulic seal inside the bore of your calliper acts as a return spring (it twists outwards when you apply pressure, and untwists when you let go, pulling back the piston a tiny bit). If your pistons are sticking, then for whatever reason the seals aren't able to retract them. That may be because they're old and stiff (some decades in service will do that to a seal) or because there's dirt in the bore between the cylinder and piston walls. That dirt is usually brake dust that didn't get cleaned off the pistons at the last pad change. There _is_ a forward seal that's meant to keep brake dust out, but if it's stuck to the piston well enough and you force it back in without cleaning it, that seal has no chance.
In both cases diagnosis is the same - pull the calliper off, get the pads out, apply some brake lever displacement and let go. You should see the piston(s) that pushed out pull back in maybe half a mm. If it doesn't, then it's sticking.
Doesn't matter why it's sticking either, in both cases you need to strip the calliper, clean the bore(s) and piston(s), replace all the seals (if one's gone, the rest will follow) and GENTLY push the piston(s) back in.
With brake pistons, they need to be lubricated with ONLY brake fluid on their way in. Once they're in the bore and making contact with both seals it's OK to apply a thin layer of silicone grease to the last 10-20 mm that end up sticking out. That'll keep moisture off the piston and can easily be scraped off by the dust seal, but it should never be allowed to mix with the brake fluid inside the cylinder.
I use EBC organic pads since 2013 on my Hornet, best brand & pads for me
I prefer parachutes to slowdown, but you know.. it's still nice to know these things.
always nice videos keep it up from the netherlands!
What's that brake setup @ 4:50 with the caliper sliding around the wheel??
Nailed it chaos cause !
Nice job, very informative. Thanks !
Great video bud. I like all the cool info. Thank you! Keep up the great work 😎👍
FWIW I used OEM Yamaha sintered pads on my OEM brakes on my R1 and it took 110,000 miles before the MOT inspector insisted that it was time to change the discs.
So I don't think that brake wear is _that_ much of an issue even with high-performance pads. I have lost track of how many sets of pads I went through in that time, I would guess at least 10 but it's such a quick and easy job that it doesn't really register.
Yay, new video!
Brembo have this handy-dandy little graph on their website showing how different pad compounds' frictiom coefficient varies with temperature. One of those compounds had an almost completely flat responce acroas the board. From a usabilify and rideability perspective that's the optimum solution. Those brakes will feel exactly the same no matter what. Nothinf inspires more confidence in a system than consistent performance like that.
That particular compound hasn't got the highest coefficient of friction, so they recommend it moatly for atreet use, but I say it's just as good for the track.
As far as lever feel and overall "power"... you can tune that with the right master cylinder. Any radial unit will feel infinitely better than the stock axial, delivering more precision and control. Sizing it correctly will deliver the right feel and most usable braking "power". The Brembo RCS line is good for that, it offers an adjustment equivalent to about 10% of overall mechanical advantage. The corsa corta feature is neat, but to me it doesn't bring enough benefit to justify the added cost of those units. If I had to buy again, I'd stick with the regular RCS.
3:38 hey, that's at the Barber museum in Alabama. I recognized a place! XD
I really like your videos, but could you change ur slides in your videos to Dark-Mode, the white screens always blinds me lol
I mix and match carbon/ceramic/sintered on all my bikes....
Linear and good braking feel are paramount for street (read : UNPREDICTABLE) conditions
I’ve used organic pads I think they cause the disc to overheat and warp, it happened both front and back when I replaced them both with organic, they also ware away in a matter of weeks
I always thought that organic braking pads were made out of mud
Now there are also ceramic brake pads. Where do these sit in the grand scheme of things?
What to do if i lost my progression pn my front brake ? On my duke 390
i didn't know there were scented brake pads, what will they think of next
disagree with sintered pads warming up fast, i swapped the sintered to organics on my RGV250 as they took about 15 minutes of normal riding to warm up, the organics seemed to work fine from the first pull. Can't beat the stopping power of the sintered once they were warmed up though.
Where did he say sintered warms up faster than organic?
@@johnlaw5762 right at the start saying they warm up quickly, and then saying that everything about organic is the opposite of sintered.
I'd rather change organic pads more often, than changing the rotors more frequently from being worn down by sintered pads. I think it will be a lot cheaper in the long run...
Another benefit of the pads wearing more often is that your calliper pistons get pushed back more often reducing the chance of them getting seized out.
Semi sintered all the way, best of both worlds IMO.
I always view this channel from India Mizoram
Great video. But Silicon and Ceramics are not organic chemicals. For a chemical/compound to be ‘organic’ it must have carbon in it. Organic pads are largely made of graphite. Plus all the other stuff, such as silicon, ceramics and some metal particles. I spent far too long as a science teacher to keep my mouth shut at times like this. Anyway…. Great stuff 👍
What is ceramic?
I LOVE the sound my brakes make. Bzzzzzzzzzz here I come!! Why do they make that noise 🤔
Ceramic and Carbon? Organic pads are everywhere here not difficult to find at all.
I doubt a normal person could tell the diffrence on the road not track.....if youre braking that hard all the time.then youre ridings hectic......the main thing is with all brakes.is to maintain them.keep them clean and avoid stuck pistons
Glass and ceramic are NOT organic...in fact in "organic" break pads, the vast majority of the components is NOT organic. It's more a reference to the bonding agent BETWEEN the particules. And going cheap on break components is not an option for a real bike...
Those are in fact organic. There 2 types of elements. Metals and nonmetals. Non metals are organic. Silica dioxide is used to make glass and ceramics which are both organic elements. And then the resin that bines it all together is made up of more non metal/ organic elements. Which makes the whole thing organic.
you guys brake?
You guys ride motorcycles??
Engine braking or nuttin! :p
You clearly don't ride a 2-stroke lol
@@ChaosCauses When I leave the throttle on my Yamaha Rx 135 and it feels like it's in neutral
lol, share with that friend...
I lost on from the back 20 minutes ago
*Ceramic brake pads crying in the corner*
hi
Neither ceramic only
"PromoSM" 😥
,🔥
First'
Can we get some bike hacks for new riders?