Improve Your Classics Handling by Adding Caster

Improve Your Classics Handling by Adding Caster. Many classic cars suffer from outdated suspension geometry designed for antiquated bias ply tires. If you install new suspension components and then align to factory specs you will likely be left disappointed. Potentially worse is getting to the alignment shop only to find out you cannot achieve the specs your builder has recommended.
In this video we address a common issue seen in 1960's Mercury Comets, Ford Falcons, and Ford Mustangs...lack of caster. The upper control arms in these cars are often improperly setup (even on new/reproduction control arms) which can lead to no or worse negative caster if the cross shaft is misaligned. When you head to the alignment shop they may be unable to get the caster you want/need and in a worst case scenario you could have opposite caster settings side to side which are uncorrectable even by a shop. By making these adjustments first you can help guarantee the caster is positive, similar side to side, and the control arms don't bind through their range of motion.
In this step by step video I show you how to find the control arm center point, adjust the cross shaft to add caster, eliminate binding of the cross shaft nuts, and more.
In my prior videos, I show you all about part selection with products from Open Tracker Racing, Baer, and Scott Drake. Watch these first if you want to see if we got here:
Part 1: • Everything You Need to...
Part 2: • How to Center a Steeri...
Part 3: • The Other Ford Falcon ...
Part 4: • How to Pick the Right ...
Part 5: • Classic Muscle Car Sus...
00:00 Introduction
01:12 Orienting the Control Arms
01:33 Measure Your Control Arms to Find the Centerpoint
02:17 Create Side Specific Control Arms
02:49 Removing the Cross Shaft Bolts
03:24 Measure Your Cross Shafts to Find the Centerpoint
04:29 Initial Control Arm Assembly - Zero Caster
05:44 Mark the Car to Match the Control Arms
06:10 Prevent Control Arm Binding at Cross Shaft Nuts
07:22 Cross Shaft/Control Arm Caster Adjustment
07:53 Tack Weld Nuts Into Place
08:56 Final Comments on Caster, Ride Height, Camber, & Toe

[@ryanmcclendon3309]

👍🏼 good info , gonna steal that cap tack trick,did mine and just snugged the caps and there’s noticeable binding. I like your attention to detail,I’m way too impatient when I have things apart.😂🤙🏼

[@truckandroll989]

Oof I had to pull stuff apart multiple times. Had to cut my brand new Baer bump steer kit cause I was out of toe adjustment and then had to cut my springs. Now the ride height and toe are workable but the camber is .5 deg + and Im out of adjustment. Just ordered the lower control arm camber kit… one more thing to weld in lol 😂

[@ryanmcclendon3309]

@@truckandroll989 they call it snowballing for a reason 😖,but bright side,you got another video😏👍🏼

[@Soul_Shaker]

Can’t wait to see the mini tub and cage videos…

[@truckandroll989]

Lol currently going in the wrong direction! At least Ill be able to safely make the turnout

[@PhunkBustA]

i think the lagorith recommended me cause falcon, but.... im from australia.. our falcons are a little different most of the time

[@truckandroll989]

I know in australia the falcons continued onward up until recently? On the older models were they similar except right hand drive? Ill have to look up the first year for the Australian version because im curious now.

[@pauljanssen7594]

Those nuts need to be welded in real good on two sides because they're not even supposed to be loose.

[@truckandroll989]

When I spoke with Open Tracker they mentioned typically going hand tight and then one extra flat. If i did that the control arms became almost unmovable. I believe from the factory these were tight but I dont think thats how they set these up when they send you blueprinted control arms. In fact I got the idea of the welded flat bar stock from John at Open Tracker.