I had $1200 worth of stuff that needed to be done to my car according to the shop. Bought all my parts I needed for $200, and replaced everything in a day because of your videos. Best car tutorial videos on youtube. Thanks so much!
Chris i am very grateful you always include details like spec numbers instead of just tighten this down tighten that down. It really helps make sure im comfortable with my own work when i am finished.
This is a great video. Simple to follow, clear and informative. Thank you. My dealer said it would cost 1250 AUD plus labor to replace the lower ball joints on my car. Following your instructions I reckon I could do it myself for a fraction of the cost. Thank you!!
Chris thanks for this. Your videos are so detailed and easy to watch. Camera angle are ridiculous. I appreciate that you take your time out to share with others. There are 3 mechanics on TH-cam that I watch and respect the most because of the info and the vids are just so good. EricTheCarGuy, Briansmobile1, and you. Keep up the good work.
Thanks a lot man! I work hard to make these videos with good angles, adding a lot of info but not too much, and trying to make it so anyone with any skill level can follow along and fix their own car!
When doing bushings, never torque them until you lift the car as it would be sitting normally. not doing this will wear out the bushings prematurely. so jack it up by the ball joint, off the jack stand, then torque the bushings.
@@feoleb Because the bushings contained within the control arm are rubber, by not putting the weight of the car on the suspension before torquing down the bolts that go through the bushings you are making it such that there will be increased torsional friction on the rubber bushings once the car's weight is down on the bushings, since the torque bolts are resisting turning in place since they have been torqued down. By loading the suspension with a floor jack pushing up on the control arm, you are simulating the weight of the car on the control arm which is how the bushings will be sitting straight during normal driving conditions, which is when you want the bolts to have the least amount of friction against the bushings (which is what causes bushings to wear out). Thus, torquing the bolts at ride load and heights is in a way the most "relaxed" position for the bushings, so you want to torque them at this height to prolong their lifespan.
He did say to re-torque the bolts at the end. Would this not serve the purpose since the vehicles weight would be be bearing down on the control arm at this point?
Awesome video. We have a 98 Windstar, are going camping in 2 weeks and found out the control arm was really bad. I just bought one and had no idea how to change it. My brothers are gonna change this using your video. I had no idea this is so simple. This is so helpful. Thanks again.
LOL, thanx Chris you make it LOOK wicked easy but about a $1000 worth of tools later, hundreds in car parts and a new love for wrenching on my car I'm still at it 5 years later.
@@chrisfix HI Chris, thanks for the tutorial. Anyway, just to share with you my mechanic mentioned to me that both my lower control arms have "cracked" and its time to replace it. However, ironically he also said that its not urgent and that I can "take my time" to get it fixed whenever I want to. But if I continue driving with worn out control arms, wont it have any ill effects on my car?? Appreciate your expertise....
Thank you so much for your clear video and instructions, I read one place that I had to have a press and special tools, and take off the whole strut assembly to do this task. I was discouraged, until I came upon your video, and am quite confident I have everything needed to do the job simply. Don't know why some people like to make everything so complex. Thanks again.
I have a Saab 9-3 Convertible with the exact same problems. I ordered both sides from Ebay yesterday when they come I hope to get them fitted along with the rear engine mount and the car will drive like it should. Like the videos Chris keep them coming.
I don't know if it's been said but only thing I noticed wrong on here was the ball joint bolt you put it in reverse when installing new arm. But, I like your videos and work, helps me come up with things and shows me some stuff without having to fumble around a few hours to figure it out. thanks
Such an amazingly detailed video for someone like me - a girl who tries to make money selling cars - deffo gonna attempt this on a car I’ve got my eye on 😀
I can only ever mention one criticism of these videos: the parts on these cars are not rusted. Yes, it would be a dream if it was always so easy as this.Much of the technique and knowledge for car repair comes from dealing with the unexpected matters that are not addressed in the bare removing of bolts.
ChrisFix, you are the man You have saved me a lot of money by showing how one can fix your own car. Thank you sir and continue doing what your good at.
Here because of one failed lower ball-joint and another on the way. Just replacing the whole lower control arms like you have here. Gonna look a see if you have an alignment video since the camber eccentric is mounted inboard on the frame center. Thank you Chris.
Im pretty sure this is what I need to do to stop my car from creeking when i turn the wheel. My bushings are shot. Great vid, I have full confidence in doing this now
Michael Kinsey You are welcome! I am glad the video was helpful! Definitely consider subscribing! New automotive "how to" videos every Thursday and most Mondays!
Great video, great camera work. That ball joint can be a pain in the butt if DIY don't open up that bracket to slip off the ball joint from the knuckle. Well done.
absolutely well done on the video...both view points and explanation. Though I'm a harley rider...comfortable and moderately experience on maintenance, but have been venturing more on my car...videos, such as yours, are welcomed...proper.
Hey, what's up? I am a huge fan! I am amazed at how much stuff you know about cars...Has anyone ever asked you, " Chris, how do you know so much about fixing cars?" How and where did you learn so much, and how can I begin and/or follow? I've taken some automotive classes at our community college here in Eugene some years ago and ended up seriously frustrating the instructors. I guess times change, I wish I would have done a better job, but enough about me. What about you? Great job on You Tube, Chris ! If that is your real name, or what you like to be called...keep 'em comin' (if you haven't done it all already, right?)! You totally inspire me to keep working on my 2000 Pontiac Grand Am GT 3.4L Sedan; aka my Flawless Rocketcar! Thank you for your time and effort. I think you're awesome!
Mike Krend Thanks Mike. I just like learning and I am always trying to figure out how cars work so that curiosity lead me to be pretty good at fixing cars. I watch people, my father taught me a lot, I read a lot, I watch youtube videos, and just take things apart to see how they work. Automotive classes are a great way to learn a lot but like you said, it is based a lot a on the instructors. I am glad you enjoy the videos and I will keep them coming! New videos every Thursday and most Mondays so stay tuned!
EXTREMELY well explained! I love these kind of videos where you not only SHOW what you're doing, but you explain bit-by-bit along the way. Thank you so much for sharing this! ;) Knowledge is power, Sir! :D
Thank you ChrisFix for another great video as usual. Your details are second to none, as soon as weather permits I'm doing the lower control arm tomorrow. It would be a shame to watch your video and not do it. Keep it going!!!
CHRISFIX FOR PRESIDENT!!!!! LOL. Here's the list of repairs that I have learned from chrisfix. (1) brakes (2) wheel bearings (3) sway bar end links (4) radio bezel removal (99 ford ranger) (5) upper control arms and ball joints. The process was thoroughly explained and easy to understand. Saved hundreds of $$$$$ by completing the work myself. I do have one question though. After all of the repairs that I have done I'm still getting a sqeeking noise from the front end when I hit a moderate to large bump. I believe it to be the lower control arm bushings. I don't think bad shocks sqeek. Chrisfix, how hard is it to replace the bushings/ or whole control arm, with the spring there (99 ranger)?? Thanks, loyal subscriber :-)
James Falvey That is awesomeeee! I am glad you learned a lot and saved a lot! With the spring, the lower control arm isnt that bad. You need to compress the spring, remove it, then unbolt the control arm. Then you can do this: th-cam.com/video/aPbL9HTHZg0/w-d-xo.html
you did a great job on the video and narrative. very clear, unobstructed views of everything that also let me figure out the orientation of things without a problem.
Great Vid Chris! Inner lower control bushing should be tightened after suspension is at ride hight. The strut bar might not be an issue, but the lower needs to have zero preload on rubber bushing. Maybe I missed it.
I wish it were this easy on all cars. To be fair, on some cars this job is much more complicated than it is here, due to vastly different designs. However this was a great video is you have this type of control arm.
thanks man, I was looking all day to try and figure out that part on my car is called a strut bar, thought it was the lower control arm, the bushings on my strut bar are worn and nobody on the internet has ever posted anything about this problem, even the guy at Napa couldn't figure out what part I was talking about
You make awesome videos Chris. Very descriptive, step-by-step, well made. Saved me a lot of money & I've learnt alot along the way. Well done mate. Thank you!
thanks chris! every video you make is sooooo helpful you have no idea man. very few have quality and clear cut instructions/explinations as this. thanks
Hello Chrisfix my name is Daf from San Antonio TX. I wanna really study automotive technology so I watch your videos to know know and visualize. Cause rn I’m having a ball joint problem on my owl vehicle. I already know kinda to replace oil on my car. Air filter and drain. And all but need of course to study it.
I felt super confident about changing my upper and lower control arms for the front of my car. Unfortunately I could not get the castle nut off along with three other bolts and nuts. They are probably the original nuts and bolts when the car was built, 04. So discouraging that I couldn’t get the job done, I honestly wanted to cry. Best of luck to the people who work on their own vehicles.
Great video, exemplary explanation. My boss told me once to put the wheel back on, then put the car on the ground. Then torque any bolt or nut that fastens a rubber bushing. He says the rubber flexes and does not rotate so it needs to be tightened in the center of its travel. Do you agree?
acuratechguy Yes. I completely agree. You only need to do this with the control arm bushings though. You can tighten down the ball joint and strut rod bolts/nuts with the car jacked up. Check out this video: th-cam.com/video/-QczV_6v42A/w-d-xo.html
I know this was some time ago, just a quick question, when you where replacing the bolt into the ball joint, did you have it backward, isn't there ridges or ribs the bolt lines with? Thank you for the video, I will be replacing my own soon. Would be great to list the tork specs for this model. Thanks Chris!
Exelente. Saludos soy un novato, pero atraves de tus videos aprendo mucho. Hi, I am an amateur in car mechanical, but I am lerning a lot with your videos. Thanks a lot.
Chris thanx a lot for all of ur videos really helpful If I may ask where can I get the torque measurements for my car I've looked everywhere!2013 Lexus GS
You made this look too easy! Great video, still trying to get the control arm off. All bolts are removed and the lca is off the body and ball joint but it still wont slide out!
Hey nice video thanks for sharring. I will mention one thing. You put the bolt on backwards on the lowest bolt. If you look at your video you will see where you insert the bolt it has horizontal lines on it and it's recessed on the other side for the bolt head not the nut.
I have a 2006 Dodge Charger R/T Daytona edition. Every once in a while My front drivers side wheel area makes a squeeking noise. I bought the full set of control arms on amazon for a very good price. Your videos are very awesome and informative. Thank you for that. Do you live near the Tampa Bay Area in Florida? I could use your help LOL
Something that I am surprised wasn't mentioned (unless I missed it) was to torque the cradle (frame) to control arm bolt after the wheel is installed and on level ground! If this step is not done preload will be introduced into the bushing and cause premature failure!!
Good video... however, you can torque up the ball joint with the load off the suspension, but you should snug the chassis bolt nut and radius arm nut... but then put the wheel on and lower the car to load the suspension before torquing the chassis bolt and radius arm nut. If you torque the chassis bolt with the arm dangling, when you put the wheel on and lower the car onto its suspension, the rubber bushes are always being twisted.
the more you look into cars and analyse the parts you tend to understand that they have been well engineered, especially how they lock something in with just a simple groove without compromising it's intended use.
Chris maaaaaaan, this was waaaaaaaaay harder than it looked! I'm an amateur to begin with so I'm good at making even the easiest things harder than they should be! LOL. I think my lower control arm is jammed to the strut arm. It was suggested I use either a ball joint or tire rod fork, make sure the control arm is bolted to the frame, then hammer the control arm out from the strut arm by using the fork against it. What are your thoughts? Oh btw, I'm working on a 98 Ford Windstar Limited, 3.8L V6, passenger side. I watched your other video regarding hub and bearing replacement. I've mixed the 2 (that video and this) together in order to get it all done at the same time.
moneygeewtee The best way to get the lower control arm off the strut bar is to take the bolt off the body mount and remove the ball joint end from the knuckle.Then hammer the control arm off the strut bar.
Thanks for detailed and concise video, liked your extra tips. I think I should be able to replace my lower control arm and ball joint and save me some money after watching your video.
I had $1200 worth of stuff that needed to be done to my car according to the shop. Bought all my parts I needed for $200, and replaced everything in a day because of your videos. Best car tutorial videos on youtube. Thanks so much!
F
great videos and lots of knowledge
Kelly Medley its means respect
Kyle Kremer that's the way to save money
Same here, $600 to fix control arms they said. Crazy
Really you make me think I can do anything, just by watching your videos
+islamicwaylive You can! It just takes some tools and know-how.
Chris i am very grateful you always include details like spec numbers instead of just tighten this down tighten that down. It really helps make sure im comfortable with my own work when i am finished.
Dealers told me 2900$ to replace my lower control arm.. I'm pretty sure i can do it myself👍👍
That's fucking robbery especially 5 years ago lmao
Did you do it? How’d it go?
@@Desh727they’re charging me 4.800 for an Acura RLX 2015 💀💀
One of the quickest, straight to the point, and informative video I've seen. Great job.
Thanks!
Even your 2014 videos were super informative.
This is a great video. Simple to follow, clear and informative. Thank you.
My dealer said it would cost 1250 AUD plus labor to replace the lower ball joints on my car.
Following your instructions I reckon I could do it myself for a fraction of the cost.
Thank you!!
did you do it?
First time doing anything to a car, much less an oil change, but your video was very helpful!
Chris thanks for this. Your videos are so detailed and easy to watch. Camera angle are ridiculous. I appreciate that you take your time out to share with others. There are 3 mechanics on TH-cam that I watch and respect the most because of the info and the vids are just so good. EricTheCarGuy, Briansmobile1, and you. Keep up the good work.
Thanks a lot man! I work hard to make these videos with good angles, adding a lot of info but not too much, and trying to make it so anyone with any skill level can follow along and fix their own car!
Great tutorial video! Perfect angles, clear directions along with tools needed. Perfection
When doing bushings, never torque them until you lift the car as it would be sitting normally. not doing this will wear out the bushings prematurely. so jack it up by the ball joint, off the jack stand, then torque the bushings.
i was going to say the same thing... suspension must be preloaded then torqued
what
@@feoleb Because the bushings contained within the control arm are rubber, by not putting the weight of the car on the suspension before torquing down the bolts that go through the bushings you are making it such that there will be increased torsional friction on the rubber bushings once the car's weight is down on the bushings, since the torque bolts are resisting turning in place since they have been torqued down. By loading the suspension with a floor jack pushing up on the control arm, you are simulating the weight of the car on the control arm which is how the bushings will be sitting straight during normal driving conditions, which is when you want the bolts to have the least amount of friction against the bushings (which is what causes bushings to wear out). Thus, torquing the bolts at ride load and heights is in a way the most "relaxed" position for the bushings, so you want to torque them at this height to prolong their lifespan.
@@raiderboy105 Good information.
He did say to re-torque the bolts at the end. Would this not serve the purpose since the vehicles weight would be be bearing down on the control arm at this point?
Perfect, I absolutely smoked a curb this is so helpful, any tips on what to do if my car no longer has traction control? 😅
Awesome video. We have a 98 Windstar, are going camping in 2 weeks and found out the control arm was really bad. I just bought one and had no idea how to change it. My brothers are gonna change this using your video. I had no idea this is so simple. This is so helpful. Thanks again.
+Brenda Tellez Awesome Brenda! I am glad the video was helpful and it's gonna help you get back on the road for your camping trip! Have a good time!
Thanks again
With great channels like yours I see I really can fix my own car, the only problem is I don't have a garage or the tools for the job.
Awesome! You don't need a garage (I still work in my driveway) and you can get tools for cheap/free: th-cam.com/video/rCOgrIPFxIY/w-d-xo.html
LOL, thanx Chris you make it LOOK wicked easy but about a $1000 worth of tools later, hundreds in car parts and a new love for wrenching on my car I'm still at it 5 years later.
No problem and great!
ChrisFix Oh snaps, thanks for replying. Can't wait till some more parts come in tommorow.
@@chrisfix HI Chris, thanks for the tutorial. Anyway, just to share with you my mechanic mentioned to me that both my lower control arms have "cracked" and its time to replace it. However, ironically he also said that its not urgent and that I can "take my time" to get it fixed whenever I want to. But if I continue driving with worn out control arms, wont it have any ill effects on my car?? Appreciate your expertise....
Dealer wants $1800 to replace both lower control arms...perhaps it's not impossible to do this myself.
Don't do that man. there fucking you up the ass that's what there doing.
Can’t say I’m really surprised. Dealerships are like that.
How did you go?
My dealership wanted $3000 to change high pressure fuel pump. You bet I changed it myself. Worked like a charm 😂
Chris, if you make a Chris fix complete video series, many would buy it.. I would. Thank you for teaching us..you have a gift.
Thank you so much for your clear video and instructions, I read one place that I had to have a press and special tools, and take off the whole strut assembly to do this task. I was discouraged, until I came upon your video, and am quite confident I have everything needed to do the job simply. Don't know why some people like to make everything so complex. Thanks again.
+Charles Davidson Awesome! Good luck!
You just saved me ALOT of money Chris! Thank you!
+Josh Stallings Awesome!!!
I have a Saab 9-3 Convertible with the exact same problems. I ordered both sides from Ebay yesterday when they come I hope to get them fitted along with the rear engine mount and the car will drive like it should. Like the videos Chris keep them coming.
I don't know if it's been said but only thing I noticed wrong on here was the ball joint bolt you put it in reverse when installing new arm. But, I like your videos and work, helps me come up with things and shows me some stuff without having to fumble around a few hours to figure it out. thanks
self reliance is a trait many people need these days. great job on this video
+Rachel Jones exactly and that's why I started my channel!
Such an amazingly detailed video for someone like me - a girl who tries to make money selling cars - deffo gonna attempt this on a car I’ve got my eye on 😀
Glad the video was helpful!
I can only ever mention one criticism of these videos: the parts on these cars are not rusted. Yes, it would be a dream if it was always so easy as this.Much of the technique and knowledge for car repair comes from dealing with the unexpected matters that are not addressed in the bare removing of bolts.
Chris your awesome because of you I was able to heighten my mechanical skills - it’s not my profession, but my hobby that l enjoy
ChrisFix, you are the man You have saved me a lot of money by showing how one can fix your own car. Thank you sir and continue doing what your good at.
Here because of one failed lower ball-joint and another on the way. Just replacing the whole lower control arms like you have here. Gonna look a see if you have an alignment video since the camber eccentric is mounted inboard on the frame center. Thank you Chris.
Very well done. Good speed of video. Plenty of explanations but not overkill! Thank you for the video.
Thank you for your excellent video Chris. I am now armed with the knowledge to replace my lower control arm. Thanks again!
+Harry Solano No problem! Glad the video was helpful!
Thank you so much for teaching us! I wanted to do what you do. We need more people like you.
Clear and to the point! Nice!
L Bear Thanks a lot! I am glad the video was helpful!
Im pretty sure this is what I need to do to stop my car from creeking when i turn the wheel. My bushings are shot. Great vid, I have full confidence in doing this now
Thanks for making very clearly filmed and understandable videos. Took a lot of my stress away doing this project.
Michael Kinsey You are welcome! I am glad the video was helpful! Definitely consider subscribing! New automotive "how to" videos every Thursday and most Mondays!
I don't even need to replace mine. I kept watching just because you explained everything so well. Thanks man.
Great video, great camera work. That ball joint can be a pain in the butt if DIY don't open up that bracket to slip off the ball joint from the knuckle. Well done.
absolutely well done on the video...both view points and explanation. Though I'm a harley rider...comfortable and moderately experience on maintenance, but have been venturing more on my car...videos, such as yours, are welcomed...proper.
Just1ConcernedAmerican Thanks! Glad the video was helpful! New automotive 'how to' videos every Thursday and most Mondays so stay tuned!
Great video Chris. Should I get an alignment after replacing the lower control arm?
Great video. Where did you get your torque specs? Also looks like the bolt on the knuckle was installed in reverse. I guess it doesn't matter.
Hey, what's up? I am a huge fan! I am amazed at how much stuff you know about cars...Has anyone ever asked you, " Chris, how do you know so much about fixing cars?" How and where did you learn so much, and how can I begin and/or follow? I've taken some automotive classes at our community college here in Eugene some years ago and ended up seriously frustrating the instructors. I guess times change, I wish I would have done a better job, but enough about me. What about you? Great job on You Tube, Chris ! If that is your real name, or what you like to be called...keep 'em comin' (if you haven't done it all already, right?)! You totally inspire me to keep working on my 2000 Pontiac Grand Am GT 3.4L Sedan; aka my Flawless Rocketcar! Thank you for your time and effort. I think you're awesome!
Mike Krend Thanks Mike. I just like learning and I am always trying to figure out how cars work so that curiosity lead me to be pretty good at fixing cars. I watch people, my father taught me a lot, I read a lot, I watch youtube videos, and just take things apart to see how they work. Automotive classes are a great way to learn a lot but like you said, it is based a lot a on the instructors. I am glad you enjoy the videos and I will keep them coming! New videos every Thursday and most Mondays so stay tuned!
I love this guy vids its like he's my personal mechanic just free lol... Every time I need to fix my car I watch his videos thanks dude
Thats a super clean 95 windstar man looks new!
EXTREMELY well explained! I love these kind of videos where you not only SHOW what you're doing, but you explain bit-by-bit along the way. Thank you so much for sharing this! ;) Knowledge is power, Sir! :D
Thank you ChrisFix for another great video as usual. Your details are second to none, as soon as weather permits I'm doing the lower control arm tomorrow. It would be a shame to watch your video and not do it. Keep it going!!!
CHRISFIX FOR PRESIDENT!!!!! LOL. Here's the list of repairs that I have learned from chrisfix. (1) brakes (2) wheel bearings (3) sway bar end links (4) radio bezel removal (99 ford ranger) (5) upper control arms and ball joints. The process was thoroughly explained and easy to understand. Saved hundreds of $$$$$ by completing the work myself. I do have one question though. After all of the repairs that I have done I'm still getting a sqeeking noise from the front end when I hit a moderate to large bump. I believe it to be the lower control arm bushings. I don't think bad shocks sqeek. Chrisfix, how hard is it to replace the bushings/ or whole control arm, with the spring there (99 ranger)?? Thanks, loyal subscriber :-)
James Falvey That is awesomeeee! I am glad you learned a lot and saved a lot! With the spring, the lower control arm isnt that bad. You need to compress the spring, remove it, then unbolt the control arm. Then you can do this: th-cam.com/video/aPbL9HTHZg0/w-d-xo.html
you did a great job on the video and narrative. very clear, unobstructed views of everything that also let me figure out the orientation of things without a problem.
Thanks!
Very well done video. Clear photography and well organized sequence. Thanks
Brilliantly done. Detailed explanation. Good work.
Great Vid Chris! Inner lower control bushing should be tightened after suspension is at ride hight. The strut bar might not be an issue, but the lower needs to have zero preload on rubber bushing. Maybe I missed it.
I wish it were this easy on all cars. To be fair, on some cars this job is much more complicated than it is here, due to vastly different designs. However this was a great video is you have this type of control arm.
thanks man, I was looking all day to try and figure out that part on my car is called a strut bar, thought it was the lower control arm, the bushings on my strut bar are worn and nobody on the internet has ever posted anything about this problem, even the guy at Napa couldn't figure out what part I was talking about
You make awesome videos Chris. Very descriptive, step-by-step, well made. Saved me a lot of money & I've learnt alot along the way. Well done mate. Thank you!
thanks chris! every video you make is sooooo helpful you have no idea man.
very few have quality and clear cut instructions/explinations as this.
thanks
Thanks a lot! I try to make it concise, yet educational so anyone with the given tools can do the job, no matter what the skill level!!!
Probably the best how to video I have seen so far. Really good work.
aldixhemo Thanks a lot man! If you like this one, you will like my others!
Video Status close to 6 years later - Still Relevant! Love this channel! Keep up the amazing work. See you in 2020! 🔨🔧🚗👨🔧👩🔧
Hello Chrisfix my name is Daf from San Antonio TX. I wanna really study automotive technology so I watch your videos to know know and visualize. Cause rn I’m having a ball joint problem on my owl vehicle. I already know kinda to replace oil on my car. Air filter and drain. And all but need of course to study it.
I felt super confident about changing my upper and lower control arms for the front of my car. Unfortunately I could not get the castle nut off along with three other bolts and nuts. They are probably the original nuts and bolts when the car was built, 04. So discouraging that I couldn’t get the job done, I honestly wanted to cry. Best of luck to the people who work on their own vehicles.
penetrating fluid overnight and a torch helped me get my bolts off for my tie rod ends. worth a shot
Great video, exemplary explanation. My boss told me once to put the wheel back on, then put the car on the ground. Then torque any bolt or nut that fastens a rubber bushing. He says the rubber flexes and does not rotate so it needs to be tightened in the center of its travel. Do you agree?
acuratechguy Yes. I completely agree. You only need to do this with the control arm bushings though. You can tighten down the ball joint and strut rod bolts/nuts with the car jacked up. Check out this video: th-cam.com/video/-QczV_6v42A/w-d-xo.html
your videos are so much better then the dvds you can buy to do this... thanks so much chrisfix for all your videos
What a crazy setup and you replaced both sides right?
good video, clear, detailled, excellent camera work showing exactly what's what
You have a gift of teaching I really enjoy your video's thanks for another great job!
william carroll Thanks a lot William! I appreciate it and I am glad you are enjoying my videos!
I know this was some time ago, just a quick question, when you where replacing the bolt into the ball joint, did you have it backward, isn't there ridges or ribs the bolt lines with? Thank you for the video, I will be replacing my own soon. Would be great to list the tork specs for this model. Thanks Chris!
Exelente. Saludos soy un novato, pero atraves de tus videos aprendo mucho. Hi, I am an amateur in car mechanical, but I am lerning a lot with your videos. Thanks a lot.
Gregory Batz Thanks Gregory! I am glad my videos are helpful and you are learning a lot!
This was literally exactly what I needed. Very well made
Very nice, stable, clear video and description. I subscribed. Nice job!
Thanks a lot! I try to do that with all of my how to videos!
I recommend jacking up the the ball joint into the knuckle to make sure its seated in there and also hold it in place while you put the bolt in.👍
Very nice and detailed video.One of the best DIY videos have seen!
Thanks man! Much appreciated!
Love the explanation and how detailed you got with this video. Great for beginners like me.
It's recommended that when replacing one of these, you also do the other side, correct? Awesome video!! Thank you so much
I always do craig.
Thx Chris , you make it look so easy , yes give DYI ers the confidence to do it.
nice work, thanks for showing that groove in the ball joint i see how the bolt holds it up into the knuckle now
sam111880 Thanks! Glad you liked the video!
Your videos so good , I like how you show every thing and very detailed visuals
thanks as always . fixed by chris fix. now i can hear the bad strut mount. i knew when i hit that giant pot hole it was a wrap.
thanks chris fix, i will change my lower control arm this weekend, thanks for the detail video and like the note about test driving then re torque.
Chris thanx a lot for all of ur videos really helpful If I may ask where can I get the torque measurements for my car I've looked everywhere!2013 Lexus GS
You made this look too easy! Great video, still trying to get the control arm off. All bolts are removed and the lca is off the body and ball joint but it still wont slide out!
Hey nice video thanks for sharring. I will mention one thing. You put the bolt on backwards on the lowest bolt. If you look at your video you will see where you insert the bolt it has horizontal lines on it and it's recessed on the other side for the bolt head not the nut.
Thanks and good eye. It really isnt a big deal because it fits either way but obviously it would have been better putting it the same way it went in.
I have a 2006 Dodge Charger R/T Daytona edition. Every once in a while My front drivers side wheel area makes a squeeking noise. I bought the full set of control arms on amazon for a very good price. Your videos are very awesome and informative. Thank you for that. Do you live near the Tampa Bay Area in Florida? I could use your help LOL
Something that I am surprised wasn't mentioned (unless I missed it) was to torque the cradle (frame) to control arm bolt after the wheel is installed and on level ground! If this step is not done preload will be introduced into the bushing and cause premature failure!!
I have the same hummer got it from goodwill for 5 bucks and it’s works amazing 😂
Great Video Chris! I'm replacing both control arms on a 2009 Dodge Journey... which part manufacturer do you recommend for overall quality?
Omg thank you ❤ you definitely made it seem easy. Love the way you explained and showed step by step. I got it thanks to your video 😀
Hey great Job,
Where I can find the torque for a specific car? or the torque you did is universal for all lower control arms?
Google it or get a shop manual for your vehicle. That is what I do.
Good video... however, you can torque up the ball joint with the load off the suspension, but you should snug the chassis bolt nut and radius arm nut... but then put the wheel on and lower the car to load the suspension before torquing the chassis bolt and radius arm nut. If you torque the chassis bolt with the arm dangling, when you put the wheel on and lower the car onto its suspension, the rubber bushes are always being twisted.
Chris...you rock. Keep up the good work. Dont stop sharing the knowledge.
76cherry88 Thanks man! I am glad the video was helpful! New automotive 'how to' videos every Thursday and most Mondays so stay tuned!
the more you look into cars and analyse the parts you tend to understand that they have been well engineered, especially how they lock something in with just a simple groove without compromising it's intended use.
You are amazing. Your videos saved a lot of money for me.
You break it down so easy and good with great understanding!!I believe i can do it myself.Thanks!!!!
i just did both sides of 2007 toyota camry lower control arm
wasnt similar but this video helped alot
THANKS CHRISFIX !! :D:D
your video makes it look so easy to DIY. it is encouraging to non mechanic like me. super thnx!!
My shop says I need to replace next visit. I have a better understanding since watching your video.. Awesome job!
HouTexPilot Thanks man! I am glad the video was helpful! New automotive 'how to' videos every Thursday and most Mondays so stay tuned!
U r really good at what u do for part's taking off and putting them on thank u for your time sir and have a good day peace to you
Amen
“Now that we got the nut off” 😂
Video very clear and in focus. Good job!
Thanks!
Chris maaaaaaan, this was waaaaaaaaay harder than it looked! I'm an amateur to begin with so I'm good at making even the easiest things harder than they should be! LOL. I think my lower control arm is jammed to the strut arm. It was suggested I use either a ball joint or tire rod fork, make sure the control arm is bolted to the frame, then hammer the control arm out from the strut arm by using the fork against it. What are your thoughts? Oh btw, I'm working on a 98 Ford Windstar Limited, 3.8L V6, passenger side. I watched your other video regarding hub and bearing replacement. I've mixed the 2 (that video and this) together in order to get it all done at the same time.
moneygeewtee The best way to get the lower control arm off the strut bar is to take the bolt off the body mount and remove the ball joint end from the knuckle.Then hammer the control arm off the strut bar.
Just saved 250 in about an hour. Car drives like a dream.
Thanks for detailed and concise video, liked your extra tips. I think I should be able to replace my lower control arm and ball joint and save me some money after watching your video.
No prob! Glad the video is able to help you out and save money!
Someone selling a car needed lower control arm thank you so much
Awesome videos as always!
Out of curiosity, I haven’t really seen you use antisieze - how come?
Great video Chris! I hope that on one day you can do a video with a Ford Fusion 06/08 SEL V6 with the same problem.
Really great video. Got explanation and camera angles. Now if only I could get the car back from my daughter, I would so do this job myself.
Thanks a lot! I try with all of my videos to have good angles and a concise video!