The frustration is that of a real mechanic, thanks for your videos. I’m experiencing a bad bog issue with my 1998 ZR600 Carbureted. Mine has the snubber, carbs cleaned, TSS bypassed, new fuel, lines, etc.. but I’m leaning towards stator or fuel pump? It idles perfectly, but hit the throttle and it starts to bog and die.
Dude, I know the frustration. Some thing that is only supposed to take maybe five or 10 minutes is taking days and you just want to give up. So sorry this is happening to you. It’s happened to me many times. Take care, I hope you find a solution 🇨🇦😎
I had both carburetors. Rebuilt. On my IQ shift 550. The jets was club bad. It Made me mad. The mechanic. Said I had to pay 750 Dallors. I said to The mechanics. They ript me off
I had the same problem on my 99 ZR 700. The stopper was broken like yours. I found that the jack shaft had been pulled toward the engine. I found it easier to remove the bolts holding the jack shaft and the brace holding the stopper than removing the engine. I used metal plates to back the elongated holes when putting it all back together again. That stopper is a critical piece to maintain clutch distance between the 2 clutches.
I did this recently with my clutch as well. Nothing worked until I got a bigger bolt. On my clutch there is a bigger threaded portion higher up that you have to use for it to work otherwise there is no room for anything to get good pressure.
Without going into too much depth, the skidoos I’ve worked on are able to use the clutch bolt to also remove the clutch with the water method. I’m not sure how the powerblok clutches are, but Every cat I’ve worked on, you need a bolt that threads into the clutch rather than the crank to do the water method. That older sled is probably a fine thread 9/16 if I remember right. Newer ones are metric. All you’re doing is threading your clutch bolt back into the crank and basically reinstalling the primary. Once you get a bolt that threads into the clutch and not the crank, it will compress the water between the end of the bolt in the clutch and the crank and use the pressure to pop it off. Wrap it up heavy in Teflon tape and try it again. Once you figure out what you’re doing, it’s super easy. My little 1/4” impact driver is all I use removing primary clutches.
You can't use hydraulic pressure to remove that clutch. You are basically trying to mash oil between the bolt and the closed hole'd crank. A Puller has threads that thread into the primary itself and the end of the puller is small enough to into the threads of your crank, as you tighten the puller, the crank is stopping the puller causing the threads to effectively "push" off the clutch.
That power block clutch takes a special puller, if you order the oe puller for your clutch it will be wrong. Also, check rear motor mount under carbs, they are common to break
Buy a primary clutch puller for your sled, about $30 and quit messing with teflon and oil/water method. I just pulled mine off with one to replace a crank seal, took 30 minutes to finish to whole job and back on the trail. Good luck
1st, it's a 2000+ model based on the hood. 2nd, when you started it, how long did let it warm up? Looks like alot of smoke means still cold. When a sled is left outside and then started and throttle it? 2 strokes are finicky. As for the bogg, secondary clutch should be addressed. When you put an aftermarket primary clutch you start over from the beginning. Not a fan of those aftermarket clutches. Both clutches need to be in sync and belt deflection is one of the factors.
The tunnel said 1999. I think it was a ZR2 that someone rolled over and used the body parts from a ZR3, so it's definitely a mish-mash of parts from different years. The powerbloc wound up being awesome once I replaced the snubber, smooth engagement. Still didn't "launch" like BAM but it was pretty quick. I have a feeling adding or removing a few grams would get it dialed.
My 90 440 prowler is doing this, but worse. It’ll rev if the track is off the ground but not under load, most of the time, and it loads up badly, but will idle all day long.
That little Milwaukee impact isn't enough to pop the primary.. and on you secondary there should be a key-way slot with a pin on the shaft that could possibly be why you can't get it off
Can't use clutch bolt u need bigger bolt to screw into first set of threads clutch bolt only screws into 2nd set of threads so that won't work get 9/16-18 fine thread bolt and use water. Clutch will pop off ur first attempt, hope this helps ya.
Don’t matter about grease gun. Use a small bolt or 1/4 drive deep socket. Water is too thin. Or grease with a couple dime size pieces of cardboard. Or buy puller
YOUR MISSING THE RIGHT TOOLS, THERE IS A BOLT THAT SCREWS IN AND POPS OFF THE CLUTCH AND THERE IS A TOOL TO HOLDS THE OUT SIDE CAP FOR THE CLLUTCH WHILE YOU REMOVE OR TORQUE THE BOLT THEY ARE LIFE SAVERS, YAMAHA TECH CLASS SHOWED ME IT
Wow. What a rabbit hole. Determination maybe an understatement. Cool video.
Never stop! I'd never done any of this before so I learned a ton.
The frustration is that of a real mechanic, thanks for your videos. I’m experiencing a bad bog issue with my 1998 ZR600 Carbureted. Mine has the snubber, carbs cleaned, TSS bypassed, new fuel, lines, etc.. but I’m leaning towards stator or fuel pump? It idles perfectly, but hit the throttle and it starts to bog and die.
Check your belt deflection and stuff too!
Dude, I know the frustration. Some thing that is only supposed to take maybe five or 10 minutes is taking days and you just want to give up. So sorry this is happening to you. It’s happened to me many times. Take care, I hope you find a solution 🇨🇦😎
Stay tuned! Next episode comes out Tuesday where I just pull the entire jackshaft. This was def frustrating tho.
I had both carburetors. Rebuilt. On my IQ shift 550. The jets was club bad. It
Made me mad. The mechanic. Said I had to pay 750
Dallors. I said to
The mechanics. They ript me off
I had the same problem on my 99 ZR 700. The stopper was broken like yours. I found that the jack shaft had been pulled toward the engine. I found it easier to remove the bolts holding the jack shaft and the brace holding the stopper than removing the engine. I used metal plates to back the elongated holes when putting it all back together again. That stopper is a critical piece to maintain clutch distance between the 2 clutches.
Sure is! Without it, the distance between the clutches changes under load and it never really 'snaps' forward.
I did this recently with my clutch as well. Nothing worked until I got a bigger bolt. On my clutch there is a bigger threaded portion higher up that you have to use for it to work otherwise there is no room for anything to get good pressure.
I wound up getting the CV-tech puller, worked great! Stay tuned for next episode, drops on Tuesday AM
You did good only one F bomb in the video. Lol. I had to buy a yamaha clutch removal bolt. That water teflon tape trick didn't work for me either.
Without going into too much depth, the skidoos I’ve worked on are able to use the clutch bolt to also remove the clutch with the water method.
I’m not sure how the powerblok clutches are, but Every cat I’ve worked on, you need a bolt that threads into the clutch rather than the crank to do the water method. That older sled is probably a fine thread 9/16 if I remember right. Newer ones are metric. All you’re doing is threading your clutch bolt back into the crank and basically reinstalling the primary. Once you get a bolt that threads into the clutch and not the crank, it will compress the water between the end of the bolt in the clutch and the crank and use the pressure to pop it off. Wrap it up heavy in Teflon tape and try it again. Once you figure out what you’re doing, it’s super easy. My little 1/4” impact driver is all I use removing primary clutches.
Yeah I wound up buying the tool and it worked mint
You can't use hydraulic pressure to remove that clutch. You are basically trying to mash oil between the bolt and the closed hole'd crank. A Puller has threads that thread into the primary itself and the end of the puller is small enough to into the threads of your crank, as you tighten the puller, the crank is stopping the puller causing the threads to effectively "push" off the clutch.
That power block clutch takes a special puller, if you order the oe puller for your clutch it will be wrong. Also, check rear motor mount under carbs, they are common to break
Buy a primary clutch puller for your sled, about $30 and quit messing with teflon and oil/water method. I just pulled mine off with one to replace a crank seal, took 30 minutes to finish to whole job and back on the trail. Good luck
1st, it's a 2000+ model based on the hood. 2nd, when you started it, how long did let it warm up? Looks like alot of smoke means still cold. When a sled is left outside and then started and throttle it? 2 strokes are finicky. As for the bogg, secondary clutch should be addressed. When you put an aftermarket primary clutch you start over from the beginning. Not a fan of those aftermarket clutches. Both clutches need to be in sync and belt deflection is one of the factors.
The tunnel said 1999. I think it was a ZR2 that someone rolled over and used the body parts from a ZR3, so it's definitely a mish-mash of parts from different years. The powerbloc wound up being awesome once I replaced the snubber, smooth engagement. Still didn't "launch" like BAM but it was pretty quick. I have a feeling adding or removing a few grams would get it dialed.
Get a proper puller and to hell with suggestions from TH-cam
My 90 440 prowler is doing this, but worse. It’ll rev if the track is off the ground but not under load, most of the time, and it loads up badly, but will idle all day long.
That little Milwaukee impact isn't enough to pop the primary.. and on you secondary there should be a key-way slot with a pin on the shaft that could possibly be why you can't get it off
I had yo put a tourqe stop on my sled ,it was easier to drill out the bracket rivets and replace with bolts
Yeah water trick doesn’t work on cats mainly, only clutches that have threads mid way like most Ski doos. Been there too lol
This is easily the most frustrated I've ever been doing a video lol
I have my first snowmobile, 1996 skidoo touring E, I gave up with the water method,
just spend the $20 and get the proper removal tool, its a breeze.
That's what I do now too, worth it
The motor was breaking up under acceleration. Check pilot jets.
Can't use clutch bolt u need bigger bolt to screw into first set of threads clutch bolt only screws into 2nd set of threads so that won't work get 9/16-18 fine thread bolt and use water. Clutch will pop off ur first attempt, hope this helps ya.
Don’t matter about grease gun. Use a small bolt or 1/4 drive deep socket. Water is too thin. Or grease with a couple dime size pieces of cardboard. Or buy puller
You need a longer bolt
Going to need a bigger boat
YOUR MISSING THE RIGHT TOOLS, THERE IS A BOLT THAT SCREWS IN AND POPS OFF THE CLUTCH AND THERE IS A TOOL TO HOLDS THE OUT SIDE CAP FOR THE CLLUTCH WHILE YOU REMOVE OR TORQUE THE BOLT THEY ARE LIFE SAVERS, YAMAHA TECH CLASS SHOWED ME IT
Use grease way thicker
Looks like you have a broken motor mount that thing is moving alot
I have been there before, where at the end you just want to light a match to it. Lol
lol glad somene was amused
Wrong bolt bro! U need 9/16-18 fine thread bolt!
That is NOT how you pull a primary clutch!
Ur engine mounts are lil wore out that will couse a lot of ur prob . Under load that engine will move alot
Nope they were new. Problem was snubber was missing
way wrong front clutch...thats a comet duster made for a low hp sled...wont work
Factory clutch, worked fine. Problem was missing engine snubber.
@@addvancedgarage you got it