Why SNOWMOBILE CLUTCHES FAIL
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 2 ธ.ค. 2019
- Why do snowmobile clutches fail? What causes them to wear out? Have a look and see what caused this #Arcticcat #snowmobile clutch to fail on me!
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I’ve been watching you guys for about 2 1/2 years and this is my go to for snowmobiling content 👍 ride on
Thanks for bein' a long-time follower!
Syxxes Performance no problem!
Thanks for taking the time to make this video. Answered all my questions!
Stoked for new vids man
Thanks Randers!
Ty for the quality camera work. I am over the holding the camera and talking like it seems everyone has to do these days. I just picked up my 2020 gade too. I ride trails though so YT says my comments don't count. 😎
Yeah, tripods are pretty sweet. Just have to get a better mic is all xD
Great Job explaining - From NL
great vid on the clutch ...my spider cracked jus like you mentioned was able to find a used one from kijji
Good video, I’ve been debating doing my own clutch….I usually blow out the dust after 2 rides and also I’ve been using LP1 on the weights and rollers…what do you think?
Bushing is out in the roller, then the cam arm/ shift weight skids on the roller. They are rebuildable if you can find parts and you have a grunt tool to get the spider off. You must heat the spider around the center because they are assembled with red loc Tite. Cat only sells the complete spider assembly last I checked.
Kind of having a issue with mine. I can't get the primary to go in and out. To catch the belt. I rebuilt the clutch I'm guessing I did it wrong
When taking the clutch off you shouldn't hit the clutch remover too hard with a hammer as I have seen the end wheel on a t-cat move in and jamb against the connecting rod which wasn't nice at all . Same with putting the clutch back on - should only use a ratchet type torque wrench and a long bar to hold the clutch -- can pivot the last end wheel out of alignment using a impact .
fett brothers performance has what you need to rebuild your spider
Arctic cat clutches have been horrible for quite some time. A friend of mine went through 3 as well. 2 of them cracked and broke. If not mistaken he went with a Yamaha clutch and had no problems. 🤷♂️
show how much tension on each weight would be helpful,
Hey I got a question for you I just picked up a snowmobile and it seems like when I hammer down on the gas it will spit sparks out of the clutch for a minute then I will come out of it it comes back sometimes sometimes it does not do you have a clue if that means my clutch might be going it’s driving just fine and revving up just fine and taking off just fine but it does spark every now and then out of the clutch area
Sled parlor great place for atv parts as well.....love ur vids....
They are..! They saved me again today!
This video is clutch. Pardon the pun. Really helpful and good to know man thanks 👍👌
Glad you enjoyed it!
do i need to get a new one when one of the weight spring is stuck? the two others move normaly but one is 100% stuck. i blew out some rollers on the secondary, and swaped those and after that my crossfire is always griping when i start it, and if i push the brake i kills the engine. and the problem is in the primary. it is on a arctic cat 2011 crossfire
What was the Torque specs on the primary bolt 50 to 55lbs?
Thunder products out of Minnesota makes rollers for the older cat clutches.
They do!
What did you clean it with? And no lube right?
I pulled my primary cleaned it and installed. Now i cant get the primary to engage. Go in and out to grab the bolt any ideas guys?
What’s the correct belt number for a 15 m8 153 why is there so many different belt combinations for it?
Have you done a vid on how to adjust belt deflection for that clutch system? If not, you should!
You're right I absolutely should do a video on that!
Just bought the same sled 2 days ago. First cat and the belt is loose. No clue how to adjust
Where did you get that plaque that’s hanging on the wall??
I’m a newbie to mountain riding. Have been running 2012 and 2013 m-8 for years at lower elevation. Heading to Wyoming soon. Was wondering what primary weights and spring you guys run for 9000’+. Also ski pressure front and rear for fox float 2. Any help would be great. Thanks and keep the videos coming
Shock pressure is really whatever you like. I run mine at 120 in the front and 150 in the rear. As for weights and springs. The stock spring is good. Weighs should be a 65 or a 68. Either one will do you good.
Had the spider break last year on my Proclimb, left me stranded at the bottom of a canyon. Got 7 years out of it. The real junk is the secondaries, went through 2 before finally switching to a Team torsional which Cat switched to. Just ordered a 2021 Alpha...so this will be the Proclimbs last season.
Strange. On the hundreds of thses I've worked on I've probably only ever done one or two secondary clutches. Way more drive clutches.
Yep. Almost all clutches need maintenance and rebuilding. There is alot of forces at work and the rollers were out!
Shit wears out, for sure!
Please show your ventilation modification
What does it mean if my clutch wont disengage
Hey man. I'm curious if you would know if a 2016 secondary would fit on a 2013 m8? Is the jack shaft splines different?
Jack-shaft splines are different. You'd need to do primary, secondary, jackshaft and there is a bunch of work that needs to be done in the chain case too, for the ideal setup.
@@syxxes ok. I thought maybe they made the inner shaft thicker but left the splines alone. I know the primary clutch from a 16 will bolt right up to a 2012-15 but I was not sure on the secondary. I was told the secondary from a 16 would also bolt up but I wasn't sure it would
@@syxxes what was your clutches set up like? Spring weights in primary and secondary. Ill be riding in Revy so 6000ft ish
I noticed that you have a Yama Planck on the wall in your shop, and in your guys last live or pod cast you mentioned trying different sleds , have one of you thought about Yamaha for a sled. You guys did mention ski too, Cat , Polaris
I would love to build a Yamaha but it would be a hill climber. I'd build an Apex for a point and shoot sled.
@@syxxes I had an 08 nytro 153 mtx that I did a 174 track and 270hp conversion to, that thing was an animal. A HEAVY animal
nice ..q I got a 16 m8 new last year and need to change my waits ..do you have to torque the clutch back on I see you didn't there ? ...thanks cheers
Yup the torque is 51ft/lbs
thanks
You should be able to get all the parts to rebuild the clutch. It's just going to take little research. There's a place in Minnesota that sales rebuild parts for those arctic cat clutches, I'd half to go thru my files to find their info if you want it.
It's not even worth it by the time I have to pay the markup on the dollar to get it delivered to Canada. Cheaper to go the my local used place Sled Parlor. By the time I pay for shipping and handling and dollar value, it ain't worth it. Love to support local!
If you put grease on the puller threads and tip of puller, it pops off with little effort. 150 psi with no grease wasn't doing it but it took 75 psi with grease.
Depends on the clutch man. Some come easy others don't. I use grease if a few light smacks doesn't pull it out
You boys getting new sleds this year?
Might have one coming.
i have 1 broken roller, but the atv still goes without any noticable problem.. is that a big problem ?
Sure is. Its only a matter of time until it locks up.
Hello, do you need to remove the face of the clutch, to be able to take it out?
Nope
Had a roller on my primary seize up last ride, destroyed a weight and clutch kept sticking engaged! And I don’t have $400 for a new one :(
I run 65g in my M7 for 10k+
Yeah, it sucks having to bite the bullet on a part the expensive.
The rollers can be replaced. I get them from royal distributing among many.... under $100
The new boss clutch system is awesome.
The new Team Boss setup is far superior to these. Lol
Are you still doing the head light delete and the cold air intake
Thinkin about it. I'm really on the fence on whether I should do it or not.
so this is an odd-ball question.. I'm curious what the drive-shaft measures from the backplate to the end of it with the clutch off.. ;)
That's a question! There are alignment shims back there too.
@@syxxes I have a 13 HCR that I could not get the clutch off. I tried everything. Had to cut it off and needed to know how deep the stub went. Luckily I was careful enough to remove it without any damage to the stub.. The clutch.. well RIP! 😂
@@cannedham3774 I've had to cut one of em off in my day!
Not to be negative my friend, No.1 "" their is supposed to be a little play side to side, it's the up and down that is crucial ,those plastic shims on each side of the rollers wear and should be checked or changed. No.2 the springs should be measured with a caliper because they lose their tensisaty, just a head's up bro,no disrespect . Great video quality thanks ✌
The previous owner of my 2013 M8 had the primary clutch cover off. I am unsure how to check the factory timing marks from your video and I think the balance may be off as my primary has a pretty good vibration at idle. What exactly should I look for to make sure that cover is clocked properly?
The best chance you have is to see if you can see the marks. Black and green dots on the outside cover and should see some on the spider if they didn't wear off.
Would that cause a bogging problem when you first start to move? If not. What could be causing this?
Needs to be diagnosed. Can be a number of things
@@syxxes Ok. Thank you!
you not riding the alpha this year?
No Alpha!
Water method protects the threads ❤
Been running tra clutches for 20 years. ZERO failures. Only rebuilt one in my life, and that was with free used parts. I don't even bother cleaning them.All of them were hooked to the tried and true 670.(several different sleds) Again NO major problems with those either. Just a bunch of spark plugs.
Oy my 800 Rev, I rebuilt mine twice!
can you do a video of tool you need and from taking first and secondary off and how to clean and last put it back to getter with toque # I never did one and want to do my sled to save some $$$ thank
I'll see what I can do!
454541030 Find a factory service manual for your specific sled. It’ll be indispensable if you’re a beginner trying to save $ working on your own sled!
Services manual is nice but im more visual watching or lessening i do best its a 14 m8000 and its been going on 5 years going at the dealer but now i want to learn and this guy awesome 👌👍🤘
@@DrainReaper then learn from some one that knows what there doing. Just saying im not impressed with Syxxes Performance.
What was the torque
51ft-lbs. Start it and let it run for 3 minutes and retorque
You should just find some Team clutching to run. Much more reliable and performs better overall.
I would but, money!
Yeah I hear ya!
Always wondered if you guys work i your own sleds.
I'm a Cat Master tech 👌
was the alpha on rental?
That was a demo.
Just a quick question is the 2012 arctic cat m8 153 is a good sled?
Karson Hoeflicher it’s the first year of the new style. I’ve heard to stay away from them. But I do have a buddy that has one with 3,500mi on it. If that helps ya at all
I would recommend a 2014 or newer. Many updates made it a much better and more reliable sled.
Thanks guys
You got some good comments here. It's a good sled but the 2014 and newer models have some good upgrades.
Ok
"if you liked the video leave a like and if you didn't like the video go ahead and leave a like down below"
Matt you talk about the clutches being timed and show the timing mark on the plate. Where is the corresponding mark?
There should be a matching mark on the movable sheave as well as on the spider. If you are taking one apart, just make your own marks on it.
@@syxxes ok thanks. I had mine apart last year to change the weights and didn't know about them being timed
@@rascal1330 yup they are balanced as a unit so you want to reassemble them exactly the same as before you took it apart. It's not really timing more like indexing.
I changed my weights out last year and sled seems to run fine. Just wondering what peek rpm should be for my 2015 m8 162?
@@rascal1330 not sure, you will have to check the service manual for your machine or a dealer. The peak is actually the shift rpm of your engine and clutchs . When you hammer the throttle wide open and hold it there the clutches should let the engine rpms quickly build to and then hold at the manufacturer's recommended shift rpm and should stay there and not very from that rpm untill the clutches are shifted all the way through. Racers work hard on clutching, that's what makes for a fast machine. Shift rpm is a function of available engine power, gear ratio in the chaincase, and the weight and profile of the cam arms and the spring weight profiles. Some racers will over clutch or raise the shift rpm slightly to compensate for rpm sag when the clutches get hot.
A 911 kit from thunder products will solve your problems Even go with there abc bearing kit. Have used them for over a decade cause cat builds crappy clutches. Had trouble with my team clutch on my 700. Wildcat trail this year and found out that you can’t change the roller on the team primary but can on the same clutch on a Polaris RZR cause nobody makes a part to hold the clutch when you want to remove the nut and spider for the team clutch from cat You have to buy a complete new one
Bad idea to use an impact to remove the primary, its hell on the crank and bearings- always remove by hand with a pry bar and breaker bar
Incorrect.
This is as per the service manual
Did not realize that, thanks for info. Im more familiar with polaris, the epi pullers i have and polaris manual say something like grease the threads and dont use an impact, using an impact changes the spider torque value and can cause damage to crank bearings. Thanks for making vids. Cheers
@@007.3l Yea man. A little bit of grease on the tip go miles. These ones can be stubborn sometimes even with air. Cheers Chris! 🍻
mat we need a skid vid... well I need one
Hmm. I think I can probably make that happen this or next week
@@syxxes I am Honda on face book
My sled runs and idols but wont move and bogs down when pushing the throttle I think its a foweld spark plug or the carbs are plugged but other than that shes minty Mr Chow 😆
Might need a carb clean. Might be worth checking the reeds too. I'll be doing a reed video in the next day or two!
Quote of the day. “Sometimes she just needs a little bit of motivation to get her off”!!!! 🤣🤣🤦♂️
xD!
Syxxes Performance yo. You still need to hit me up so I can send you pics of my phazer mod sled. We talked about it a while back. It’s a late 80’s with a 700 fuel injected attic cat wild cat motor and tons and tons of custom one-off parts I made myself. I know you’ll like it. It’s pretty ridiculous. What’s your email? Or text.
@@Mad.Man.Marine You can actually send it as a DM to the instagram. Will be sure to get it that way!
Syxxes Performance will do
Syxxes Performance let me know if you got those pics. I sent you a bunch of the phazer build and also of the zr 900/1010 build I did
Why don't you have heated garages?
Why don't you have a helicopter?
The spider buttons should be kept at near 0 gap .6 thousandths maximum for long life. It ruins everything else when that gap is not maintained.
I use gun oil on all wearable surfaces on my clutches. Gotta keep up on the clean out though. Belt dust is a bitch... I've done exactly what you did leaning on it before and after. The feeling and sound difference is crazy. I believe they need some type of lubrication barrier.
I do the same. I use Tri-Flow. It's a low temp silicone lube. Works pretty good.
I use LP1
CV-TECH POWERBLOC primary clutches are the best fewest moving parts in a clutch and there reliable coming from some1 who just rides every single year here in ALASKA BORN AND RAISED i ride snowmobiles every year
Good to know it's holding up!
@@syxxes i dont ride the mtns but i got a 2006 ski-doo 600sdi 144 i re geared it for flat land riding i also need to re clutch it for sea level elevation and swap my A-ARMS and front shocks but so far im liking it
The nearest mtns are any where from 40 to 60 miles away and im not wanting to travel that far just to ride the mtns
@@edwardabrahamiii3742 we drive 5 hours every couple of weeks for mountain riding
@@syxxes here in my part of Alaska we never use trucks our gravel road aint big enough theres not 1 truck in my village any more in order to get to the mountains you got to use your sled and ride over the the frozen tundra lakes creeks rivers and ponds to get to the mtns it takes about an average of 2 hrs to get to the mtns that are 60 miles away doing speeds about 40 to 70 mph and it also takes about 2 hrs to get to the 40 mile mtns bc the tundra is just so rough rugged and harsh there are no groomed trails
So why not put a little dry silicone lube spray on yr weights & slide points ?
He does.
FYI use water or grease to get the clutch off no special tool needed not telling you what to do just an idea its worked for me an many others
You can do that with Skidoo clutches. But would have to find a special bolt to do that with cat clutches.
Arctic cat clutches fail... Brp or yammie the way to go. 25plus years and have had minimal issues.
I’m not bashing but I’m not sure I learned anything here. All clutches fail if not properly maintained and or if not calibrated causing excessive heat and or if the parallelism, center to center and offset is not to spec but I was hoping you would explain a little more about the arctic cat clutch it’s self because despite their reputation, I haven’t seen any evidence they are any better or worse than anything else.
Nice vid, but the clutch components are "balanced" not "timed" big difference
My spider broke while I was racing! It actually lifted the hood and cough me in the belly omg thought I was going to die it hurt so bad
Holy hell! That's scary!
Never ever use power tools (impact) or hammers when pulling clutches!!! The impact and vibration can cause the crankshaft to become untrue and you will break your crank over time from the untrue rotation. If your clutch won’t come off with hand tools, apply heat to the area where the belt rests and she’ll pop right off.
Someone didn't read the service manual xD. Arctic Cat says "use impact". Hell I even struck it light with a hammer like the service manual says! No problems here my friend!
Very common to use a hammer when pulling a stuck primary, just don’t get carried away.
@iSellUsedCondoms it's possible, but not very likely. We use a clutch holding tool and a breaker bar by hand.
and cranked crank bearings later after hemmering on the puller...
They do take a beaten
Yup! Everything on this sled seemed to need replacing at once. lol
Specify parts more if you can. You were talking about parts I’ve never heard of 😂 I don’t know what your talking about bro you gotta show me
snowmobile clutches fail because....wait for it......parts fail
You didn’t show anything besides obvious wear signs
2
Don't use an impact on any of the components of the clutch, even pulling it off the sled. Use standard hand tools. Informative but not accurate.
Ok, slightly disappointed, not much to see here.
Guess you want your money back huh?