I watched all 7 videos so far on the lite. I recently revived a 94 that sat for 8 years. I just put a new track on (xlt light weight z track) sliders, and any bogies that were warm out. Put new fuel lines from the tank to the carb. New oil lines and filter. Cleaned the carbs. Put a little premix down the cylinders, ran premix in the tank to reseal everything. And it fired right off. Machines odometer stopped working at 4600 miles 15 years ago. Still a strong machine, hand warmers, and lights work. This is a great example of what Polaris reliability used to be.
Love your channel, thanks for taking the time to put all this good info out there on all your videos, anxious to see how the old girl comes to life with the lower pilot jets!
I just watched all videos beginning to end...kinda disappointed you guys threw this sled behind the shop and forgot about it...I wanted to see it fixed
My experience with Seafoam: I didnt believe it was great. I thought it couldnt do much. My mother has a 2011 skidoo 600etec. We are at camp it wont start. I finally get it to barely sputter to life. My friend has a can of seafoam. We put a good amount into the fresh tank of gas. The sled woudn't even move. Once idling for a good amount of time it was able to crawl around on one cylinder and sputter like crazy. This sled is made to run 91octane and has always ran 87octane. So that being said, the valves were probably gummed up and the injection system was probably gummed up and the plugs were probably bad. So after a morning of opening up the throttle and letting it sputter with the seafoam by the after noon it was idling like a champ. it has a small bog in mid range and didn't have full power. but it was vastly better then the first morning. The next day we put the rest of the bottle of Seafoam in the sled and continued to run it as we were icefishing. By noon time the sled ran much better and as the end of the day came, me and my mother were able to go on a 40mi trip with no problems. I fully believe that seafoam can clean internal part over time. I believe that it can work on some problems, but not all. It is a product that does what it says it will do, people need to understand that it takes time to cause an effect.
Please find the time to get this sled tuned! I am having the same issues with the same sled (in the 2 up tour pkg) and am totally stumped. Fantastic vids with great "no bull " information
I had a brand new 1988 340 Indy Sport. It was far from snappy on low end hole shots. This is what I remember doing. Remember now we're talking 30 years ago. From the factory there were FIVE clutch shims on the secondary clutch. I think we took out three. Tightened the spring one hole on the secondary. I think we did down size the pilot jets and set the needle clips on #3. I put well over 5000 miles on that sled. Never lost a race to another 340. EVER.
I had a similar problem bog (no warm weather top end) on a 81 Poo Cutlass 440 SS. Went through the entire motor. Still was the Gutless. I accidentally started it without the airbox and it hit the spec RPM's. Decided that the factory had spec'ed it to rich. Put in smaller main jets and voila. No more Gutless. Glad you mentioned this in the video. I enjoy your channel.
Hey, really like your videos. I think your right on the money with needing smaller jets. Keep up the great videos, and hope we get some snow soon here in Innisfil! Cheers!
I swear, some of the shut you do and say just flat reminds me of myself and the boys back in the day playing with anything that had an engine. Love you guys and your channel !!!!! ✌🏽
Hey I have a suggestion, same thing was happening to my machine and it turned out to be the coil, it was always getting spark but wouldn't run the machine properly
I had a similar problem with my '90 Indy 400. Dealer discovered main jets were wrong or one came out. Don't remember which one. Might help to rebuild the carbs. Good luck.
@@PowerModzOfficial Hey! I have the same sled with the same problem! Please finish the series, please? I am going nuts here in Sweden. Or my kids are..
Just got a Polaris Sprint 340 with the same problem. It’s fine when you first fire it up but after she warms up she bogs. Once it gets going it’s fine. But from a stand still and you start off she bogs
We had almost this exact problem with a 98 500 liquid and a 500 air and bought the $30 something dollar gasket kit online and pulled and rebuilt the motors and they RIP now. Even before the bog we never realized how down on power they were. Both Polaris^^
I have a 340 Yamaha that kinda had the same problem it had resister plugs in it I am the original owner and after they went to ethanol gas it would never run correctly I changed the plugs to a non resistor plug and bang it run perfect. Still have the old girl 1980 340 enticer.. never ran better..
I just had the same problem with an indy lite, turned out to be the pickup line in the tank had rotted off and the machine would intermittently starve for gas causing the bog. might want to have a look and see if that's still there. Good luck.
You got a weak coil And bring your rpm up about 400 RPM for engagement so a stronger clutch spring will give ya some zip .Great videos thanks fun to look at your short movies you really are helping folks well done
Everyone speculating - I know I’m late to this party but by a couple years but it’s an easy diagnosis: Take belt off - run engine, if it has a bog then it’s the engine, if the engine runs good then put belt on and run it. If it bogs then it’s the drivetrain (clutches , maybe a bearing going, track too tight, etc). Didn’t watch the whole series but it needed a compression test after he rebuilt it, not sure this was done? If the cylinders are blowing by then that would be my only other suspect if the drivetrain is good but it runs good without load but bogs when u put the belt on. New pistons won’t fix an ovaled out cylinder........
My son’s Indy light was boggy and ran crappy this fall until I put a whole bottle of Sea Foam in the tank and just rode it around at high speed. It runs fine now. Funny I ran across your video months later with a similar issue. It also looks like warm, spring time conditions in your video. Fan cooled sleds always run a bit boggy in warm weather unless they are jetted leaner for the temps. But then you risk burning them down when it gets colder and who wants to spend the time jetting a fanner? I love fan cooled sleds but they’ve got their idiosyncrasies. Overall they are easy to live with though.
My enticer was like that when the choke cable was rusty. Didnt close the choke plunch correct. ALSO had an SRV540 the same problem it was the prim clutch
Hey Luis, check to see if your set to sea-level on your oiler or if your set to altitude, us old people used to have to set it once we get to sea-level
From my experience most of them old Polaris sleds bogg down off the line and on low rpm's I came to beleive it's a bad porting design mixed with small diameter carbs
I'm really waiting for the next installment in this series. I have a Polaris 340, and for the 10 years I've been driving it, it has always been boggy. I installed bigger carbs, but all that got me was a better top end performance, and a hole in one of the pistons. But it didn't make the bog any worse either. If you manage to figure this one out, you will make both me and my 340 happy :)
so i am just wondering did you ever get the crank looked into . there is a special piece that is in the centre of the crank and divides the bottom end preventing air exchange from one side to the other . another thing i found is that some people remove a piece from inside the airbox to improve air flow without realizing the piece is needed for one the motor warms up or is used on a ward day . that being said i still think its either the carbs or the motor that is causing the bog . those polaris fan cooled are about as good as those fan cooled motors used in the ski doo model . i wish someone would explain why the liquid cooled are so much better than those particular fan cooled .
I had 340 sport did same thing. after rebuild change carbs and went back to stock carbs.. one yr off headaches.sold for 100.00 good bye. my son was happy it was gone. good luck
The exhaust might be stopped up. If its not the exhaust I think the timing is low. I'm not a certified mechanic either but have worked on a lot of motors, I mean engines lol.
Sea Foam takes time. Not instantaneous. Use Sea Foam in every refueling, use it at half strength. You will NEVER have a fuel issue. I do this in mowers, snowblowers, chainsaws, weed trimmers, etc. NEVER had a fuel issue in 15+ years. Sea Foam in every gas can...every time. The little this costs is well worth the hassle it avoids
Low elevation- or warm temps= Smaller pilots, 1 size smaller on Main Jets, Needles in #2. Air Screw 3/4 turn out, Vent tubes in Carbs attached to air box)helps even out float bowl pressures. Big kids and Young kids will love it :) plus you'll be getting 15 mpg average.
@@neon922 yes 1.5 turns out, that was factory. I didn't write about factory or warranting a snowmobile 30 years old. I wrote about how to remove the boggy issues and get pep into a 340 sled engine. Clutching plays it's part too and gearing... Our Oval sleds are 340's and do 105 mph on the ice ovals ;) :) I know Mr Powermodds isn't looking for ice oval speeds. Venting the Carbs to the air box instead of the hoses being routed to the upper handle bars will provide more stable and constant vacuum pressure for the float bowls. Throwing off all the other factory jetting. Sled Manufacturers started doing this back in 88 with productions sleds till EFI came into play. Always test and tune though.. A jetting slide rule would be helpful also.
Get a hand held tach and check your engagement rpm. I been going through the same thing with a lite gt and 340 deluxe. Runs ok once going sluggish off the line. Put a new gold spring in the Gt and it help and brought engagement up to 4500 form 3900. However after checking a whole list of things like you have I'm pretty much at the conclusion these sleds are geared too tall 16/39 on the gt and 17/41 on the deluxe. 18 and 19 top gears are available . But not 14 or 15. No way to gear the chain case lower. Also I have put a 1.25 track on the gt from a .750 ish one. (more drag) So the deluxe is getting rebearinged today and dropping the track drive sprockets from 9t to & tooth, a PPD- 04-108-55 bravo long track drives. I can always go back taller in the chain case if needed. 0102-297 PPD is also some 8t drives for a 2000 bearcat 340. I'll report back and let you know if the 7t was too much as I'm not 1.22 under original gearing. But on the stand this thing will turn the track 85 mph and on the trail lucky to see 65 on the dream o meter. I think the low gears like the Bravo runs will make this a much better kid sled 95% of the time they way a kid uses it. The speedo is going to be more like Km now then miles. The other thing on clutching is to check the main bushings because as they wear the clutch faces can tilt out to a V rather then be parallel. Compression at 120 lbs is ok. Pilot jet are tiny on these 340 and do clog easy. Belt wear is a big factor in bogging too (lose the lowest ration needed to start moving) Using mountain clutching setup would help takeoff (I'm near sea level) but then you get a jumpy sled that is hard for a kit to control, so at the end of the day gearing down is the best option imo. Just don't hold the sled wide open on a ice road for 2 miles trying to squeeze that last 3 mph out of it as the engine may be over reving and there is no tach to verify your above 7000 rpm
Watched bog series 1-6...My next thing was Pilots..BUT as long as you have carb.s apart...(Pilots out) TRIPLE CHECK those transfer ports are clear. Fine stiff wire. (Twisty ties stripped) what ever. Blow thru with cigarette smoke & carb. clean spray tube. What ever. What is the compression test after rebuild and short break in ? What is fuel pressure after fuel pump rebuild?
I had a old 78 moto ski when I was younger and it would bog out sometimes underload like what's happing there but not all the time one of the cylinders would cut in and out bad coil
Sorry to see, this wasn't finished. 87 Phazer: replaced Fuel pump, Impulse line and clamps to pump, Ignition coil, after doing EVERYTHING he had done. Fixed. Really think my problem was the Impulse line, and....Ignition coil.
because you rebuilt the engine, carbs and fuel pump it can only be stater,coil,wires,plugs ect. OR clutchs but im thinking stater or coil breaking down after 3-4000 rpm
Did the pilots works? Have to start mine fuel off. Run high for a sec then bogs and half to flip the choke real quick to get it to idle up.._ but when idles it will bog a die aswell if choke was missed then i have to shut fuel to restart the 92 indy 440 lc .. Everything new inside out . Cards fully rebuilt to stock. Oh and runs best with needle clip on bottom notch.
Maybe the exhaust has a mouse nest or something in it? Maybe the clutches are messed up? It seems a little strange to me that the pilot jets would be wrong, but give it a try I guess.
My 96 Vmax 600 was set up sloppy rich by the factory. Bogged, horrible mileage, smoked out the whole county. Jetted down and installed hotter plugs and it ran like a champ.
How about the clutching? primary spring? Seems to have an early engagement, also might be a bit weak on the secondary. Had similar issues with my 340 lite touring. Also had issues with having just too rich mixture, runs better when it's colder outside.
TAKE OFF THE MUFFLER. I don’t remember seeing you check it. I started this series because I had the same problem with my old AC 340 and wanted to know how to fix it. Did all these steps and finally realized the only thing left was the muffler. Took it off (put ear protection ON) and tried it again. WORKED LIKE A CHAMP.
I know you may have thought of this but make sure that the motor mounts are solid because it looks like the engine is moving which may cause the primary clutch to moving backward causing a bog. This happened on my snowmobile and I made a huge improvement when the motor was moving as much. Is it mounted using rubber spacers or is it solid mounted?
KEEPING IN MIND THAT THIS IS A 340 AND NOT AN 800. I mean, an engine rebuild, sure. That'll sure up the engine. But what about the clutching? The skid? Nasty dirty primary clutch with a worn out spring, improperly weighted? Same for the secondary?
Kinda feel like I missed the "Happy Ending". What do you think the Sea Foam is supposed to do in there fuel tank to correct issues? What would be your scientific comment on that, without speculation.
Dunno - I was hoping it was as magical as "they" say.....that being said I did it because if I didn't someone would have said "you should have just ran seafoam thru it dumbass". So that's really why I did it.
is the lighting and ignition coil original? my 2 cents is to confirm ignition timing.i assume 340,440 and 488 all have same components .I made my own timing wheel and pointer when i rebuild my 488(polaris timing casting marks were bang on but i wanted to make sure)
Seafoam... highest priced coleman fuel + alcohol + mineral oil on the shelves. Needed to let it run at least 30 hours while riding naked in Jan, that is what it takes to make seafoam work good.
You should have added a splash to the oil container. A little in the oil can help clean the oil parts. But if the motor doesn't have an oil container then just forget that idea. but seafoam is fine in oil in small amounts.
Dude the air screws are off back them off 1.5 turns out instead of 1 turn. Polaris specs 1 turn out for most motors but the Indy light has 1.5 turns out. This is a huge case for 2 strokes bogging when accelerating or a high load is applied at low rpm.
im gonna assume that this turd never got rid of the bog... after the complete rebuild.. and everything else done it still bogs. Where is the follow up on this? My brother in law had a 600 that had the same issue changed everything and never did go away... so the sled went away shortly there after.
This turd will be taking it off the turds sled rack in the next couple of weeks. This turd can't follow up on it until I have something to follow up on - the turd will fix it though as that is what this turd does. Thanks for watching this turds videos!
I found older Polaris sleds are worse than any others for those bog issues... i have the same year sled as your axys without all the addons same color and everything kinda funny how that worked out, i may turbo it yet if i makes plans for the mountains but for now its enough for these old shoulders to hang onto for sure.
I may sound dumb saying this but check the track tension... I had an Indy sport and it did that and the track was too tight.. yours looks to be that way too seeing how quickly the track stopped when you let go of the throttle
I know this might sound dumb but if that's still an old belt in there put a new one in my 91 indy bogged like crazy! Until I put a new belt it and haven't had a problem yet
Did you ever fix this? The way it smokes even after taking the choke off , could the choke cable be adjusted up too high holding the choke partially on after you flip it down and think it's off? I have had several sleds that garage tinkerers have adjusted up due to hard starting. Are you fouling plugs/ or have wet plugs? Sounds to me like it's choked when running.
i am haveing the same problem with a 05 touring 340 i rebuilt the motor my seals where screwed but i still have the bog but when i check my plugs they look oily so i am thinking bigger jets
I think to help this sled you need to invite larry enticer so that he can "send it" it will run fine right after!
Just watched all the videos to be left hanging, what’s the word, did u get it running, finish the series for us.
I watched all 7 videos so far on the lite. I recently revived a 94 that sat for 8 years. I just put a new track on (xlt light weight z track) sliders, and any bogies that were warm out. Put new fuel lines from the tank to the carb. New oil lines and filter. Cleaned the carbs. Put a little premix down the cylinders, ran premix in the tank to reseal everything. And it fired right off. Machines odometer stopped working at 4600 miles 15 years ago. Still a strong machine, hand warmers, and lights work. This is a great example of what Polaris reliability used to be.
Try lighting it on fire. That should take care of any bog issues with it , once and for all.
Love your channel, thanks for taking the time to put all this good info out there on all your videos, anxious to see how the old girl comes to life with the lower pilot jets!
I just watched all videos beginning to end...kinda disappointed you guys threw this sled behind the shop and forgot about it...I wanted to see it fixed
@Mason Wengeler They ever finish this series?
@@jrhaines30 must be stumped. That's how I am on mine. It's honestly the worst shit
My experience with Seafoam: I didnt believe it was great. I thought it couldnt do much.
My mother has a 2011 skidoo 600etec. We are at camp it wont start. I finally get it to barely sputter to life. My friend has a can of seafoam. We put a good amount into the fresh tank of gas. The sled woudn't even move. Once idling for a good amount of time it was able to crawl around on one cylinder and sputter like crazy. This sled is made to run 91octane and has always ran 87octane. So that being said, the valves were probably gummed up and the injection system was probably gummed up and the plugs were probably bad.
So after a morning of opening up the throttle and letting it sputter with the seafoam by the after noon it was idling like a champ. it has a small bog in mid range and didn't have full power. but it was vastly better then the first morning. The next day we put the rest of the bottle of Seafoam in the sled and continued to run it as we were icefishing. By noon time the sled ran much better and as the end of the day came, me and my mother were able to go on a 40mi trip with no problems.
I fully believe that seafoam can clean internal part over time. I believe that it can work on some problems, but not all. It is a product that does what it says it will do, people need to understand that it takes time to cause an effect.
Please find the time to get this sled tuned! I am having the same issues with the same sled (in the 2 up tour pkg) and am totally stumped.
Fantastic vids with great "no bull " information
I had a brand new 1988 340 Indy Sport. It was far from snappy on low end hole shots. This is what I remember doing. Remember now we're talking 30 years ago. From the factory there were FIVE clutch shims on the secondary clutch. I think we took out three. Tightened the spring one hole on the secondary. I think we did down size the pilot jets and set the needle clips on #3. I put well over 5000 miles on that sled. Never lost a race to another 340. EVER.
I had a similar problem bog (no warm weather top end) on a 81 Poo Cutlass 440 SS. Went through the entire motor. Still was the Gutless. I accidentally started it without the airbox and it hit the spec RPM's. Decided that the factory had spec'ed it to rich. Put in smaller main jets and voila. No more Gutless. Glad you mentioned this in the video. I enjoy your channel.
Hey, really like your videos. I think your right on the money with needing smaller jets. Keep up the great videos, and hope we get some snow soon here in Innisfil! Cheers!
I swear, some of the shut you do and say just flat reminds me of myself and the boys back in the day playing with anything that had an engine. Love you guys and your channel !!!!! ✌🏽
that's awesome thanks for watching!
man the Indys have had a bog right from the factory I had a 400 an it was always boggy on bottom end with full rebuild from the dealer Louis
Hey I have a suggestion, same thing was happening to my machine and it turned out to be the coil, it was always getting spark but wouldn't run the machine properly
I had a similar problem with my '90 Indy 400. Dealer discovered main jets were wrong or one came out. Don't remember which one. Might help to rebuild the carbs. Good luck.
You just leave us hanging on the 340 Indy not cool. Especially when I've watched all episodes. Thanks for what u did show though.
More will come - still have it!
@@PowerModzOfficial Hey! I have the same sled with the same problem! Please finish the series, please? I am going nuts here in Sweden. Or my kids are..
Going through this exact problem right now with my Indy lite. Hopefully theres another video to come? thanks
Working on it.
Did you ever fix the bog? Wish you would have shown bleeding the oil line. Did you install an oil line filter?
Just got a Polaris Sprint 340 with the same problem. It’s fine when you first fire it up but after she warms up she bogs. Once it gets going it’s fine. But from a stand still and you start off she bogs
We had almost this exact problem with a 98 500 liquid and a 500 air and bought the $30 something dollar gasket kit online and pulled and rebuilt the motors and they RIP now. Even before the bog we never realized how down on power they were. Both Polaris^^
I have a 340 Yamaha that kinda had the same problem it had resister plugs in it I am the original owner and after they went to ethanol gas it would never run correctly I changed the plugs to a non resistor plug and bang it run perfect. Still have the old girl 1980 340 enticer.. never ran better..
It's the choke cables stuck I had the same issue
I just had the same problem with an indy lite, turned out to be the pickup line in the tank had rotted off and the machine would intermittently starve for gas causing the bog. might want to have a look and see if that's still there. Good luck.
justplanecrazy he already changed the pickup line
You got a weak coil And bring your rpm up about 400 RPM for engagement so a stronger clutch spring will give ya some zip .Great videos thanks fun to look at your short movies you really are helping folks well done
Thanks for the tips!
Everyone speculating - I know I’m late to this party but by a couple years but it’s an easy diagnosis:
Take belt off - run engine, if it has a bog then it’s the engine, if the engine runs good then put belt on and run it. If it bogs then it’s the drivetrain (clutches , maybe a bearing going, track too tight, etc).
Didn’t watch the whole series but it needed a compression test after he rebuilt it, not sure this was done? If the cylinders are blowing by then that would be my only other suspect if the drivetrain is good but it runs good without load but bogs when u put the belt on. New pistons won’t fix an ovaled out cylinder........
Just replace the coils for 30 bucks
have you checked the expansion chamber for a nest?
My son’s Indy light was boggy and ran crappy this fall until I put a whole bottle of Sea Foam in the tank and just rode it around at high speed. It runs fine now. Funny I ran across your video months later with a similar issue.
It also looks like warm, spring time conditions in your video. Fan cooled sleds always run a bit boggy in warm weather unless they are jetted leaner for the temps. But then you risk burning them down when it gets colder and who wants to spend the time jetting a fanner? I love fan cooled sleds but they’ve got their idiosyncrasies. Overall they are easy to live with though.
Just gonna say that it could be a weak coil or the stator
Thanks for video series, enjoyed myself.
My enticer was like that when the choke cable was rusty. Didnt close the choke plunch correct. ALSO had an SRV540 the same problem it was the prim clutch
Did u ever end up fixing the bog?
Good idea. Back to factory specs. Did you change the pulse line ? I've seen those crack and leak . New clamps ? Just a thought.
maybe got binding in the gear train? seems like after belt disengages secondary clutch stops immediately
Hey Luis, check to see if your set to sea-level on your oiler or if your set to altitude, us old people used to have to set it once we get to sea-level
From my experience most of them old Polaris sleds bogg down off the line and on low rpm's I came to beleive it's a bad porting design mixed with small diameter carbs
488 not bag with boggy
I'm really waiting for the next installment in this series. I have a Polaris 340, and for the 10 years I've been driving it, it has always been boggy. I installed bigger carbs, but all that got me was a better top end performance, and a hole in one of the pistons. But it didn't make the bog any worse either. If you manage to figure this one out, you will make both me and my 340 happy :)
its just about off the shelf and ready for work - but not quite yet
Love you vids. They help me out
so i am just wondering did you ever get the crank looked into . there is a special piece that is in the centre of the crank and divides the bottom end preventing air exchange from one side to the other . another thing i found is that some people remove a piece from inside the airbox to improve air flow without realizing the piece is needed for one the motor warms up or is used on a ward day . that being said i still think its either the carbs or the motor that is causing the bog . those polaris fan cooled are about as good as those fan cooled motors used in the ski doo model . i wish someone would explain why the liquid cooled are so much better than those particular fan cooled .
and when i say the motor i mean something on the motor like crank seals or something leaking air into the crankcase .
He just replaced crank seals and rebuilt whole motor. Carbs still need work
Not getting enough fuel my guess
I had 340 sport did same thing. after rebuild change carbs and went back to stock carbs.. one yr off headaches.sold for 100.00 good bye. my son was happy it was gone. good luck
The exhaust might be stopped up. If its not the exhaust I think the timing is low. I'm not a certified mechanic either but have worked on a lot of motors, I mean engines lol.
Watched several vids on this by you and seems you are not there yet. Any updates or should we all just abandon your vids as half -baked as they r.
Louie try swapping out the voltage regulator
Sea Foam takes time. Not instantaneous.
Use Sea Foam in every refueling, use it at half strength. You will NEVER have a fuel issue. I do this in mowers, snowblowers, chainsaws, weed trimmers, etc. NEVER had a fuel issue in 15+ years. Sea Foam in every gas can...every time.
The little this costs is well worth the hassle it avoids
Low elevation- or warm temps= Smaller pilots, 1 size smaller on Main Jets, Needles in #2. Air Screw 3/4 turn out, Vent tubes in Carbs attached to air box)helps even out float bowl pressures. Big kids and Young kids will love it :) plus you'll be getting 15 mpg average.
Indy lite air screw is 1.5 turns out
@@neon922 yes 1.5 turns out, that was factory. I didn't write about factory or warranting a snowmobile 30 years old. I wrote about how to remove the boggy issues and get pep into a 340 sled engine. Clutching plays it's part too and gearing... Our Oval sleds are 340's and do 105 mph on the ice ovals ;) :) I know Mr Powermodds isn't looking for ice oval speeds.
Venting the Carbs to the air box instead of the hoses being routed to the upper handle bars will provide more stable and constant vacuum pressure for the float bowls. Throwing off all the other factory jetting. Sled Manufacturers started doing this back in 88 with productions sleds till EFI came into play. Always test and tune though.. A jetting slide rule would be helpful also.
Get a hand held tach and check your engagement rpm. I been going through the same thing with a lite gt and 340 deluxe. Runs ok once going sluggish off the line. Put a new gold spring in the Gt and it help and brought engagement up to 4500 form 3900. However after checking a whole list of things like you have I'm pretty much at the conclusion these sleds are geared too tall 16/39 on the gt and 17/41 on the deluxe. 18 and 19 top gears are available . But not 14 or 15. No way to gear the chain case lower.
Also I have put a 1.25 track on the gt from a .750 ish one. (more drag) So the deluxe is getting rebearinged today and dropping the track drive sprockets from 9t to & tooth, a PPD- 04-108-55 bravo long track drives. I can always go back taller in the chain case if needed. 0102-297 PPD is also some 8t drives for a 2000 bearcat 340. I'll report back and let you know if the 7t was too much as I'm not 1.22 under original gearing. But on the stand this thing will turn the track 85 mph and on the trail lucky to see 65 on the dream o meter. I think the low gears like the Bravo runs will make this a much better kid sled 95% of the time they way a kid uses it. The speedo is going to be more like Km now then miles.
The other thing on clutching is to check the main bushings because as they wear the clutch faces can tilt out to a V rather then be parallel.
Compression at 120 lbs is ok.
Pilot jet are tiny on these 340 and do clog easy.
Belt wear is a big factor in bogging too (lose the lowest ration needed to start moving)
Using mountain clutching setup would help takeoff (I'm near sea level) but then you get a jumpy sled that is hard for a kit to control, so at the end of the day gearing down is the best option imo.
Just don't hold the sled wide open on a ice road for 2 miles trying to squeeze that last 3 mph out of it as the engine may be over reving and there is no tach to verify your above 7000 rpm
Watched bog series 1-6...My next thing was Pilots..BUT as long as you have carb.s apart...(Pilots out) TRIPLE CHECK those transfer
ports are clear. Fine stiff wire. (Twisty ties stripped) what ever. Blow thru with cigarette smoke & carb. clean spray tube. What ever.
What is the compression test after rebuild and short break in ? What is fuel pressure after fuel pump rebuild?
I had a old 78 moto ski when I was younger and it would bog out sometimes underload like what's happing there but not all the time one of the cylinders would cut in and out bad coil
wow we are still riding here in maine, it's damn near summer up in the maple syrup land!
Nothing but white here in Lab though. The NORTH prevails.
adam baller im down in old orchard, i heard rangeley still has like 4 feet of snow but i dont have any time to go up unfortunately
Bailey Lauzon I haven't been up there for a while I'm in aroostook county and we still have about a foot, enough to have fun still.
adam baller yah im from Maine to down in Medway there is still a crap ton of sbow
adam baller snow
Breaking in a rebuilt engine is the tricky part in a fan cooled just had to be correct ratio
Sorry to see, this wasn't finished. 87 Phazer: replaced Fuel pump, Impulse line and clamps to pump, Ignition coil, after doing EVERYTHING he had done. Fixed. Really think my problem was the Impulse line, and....Ignition coil.
because you rebuilt the engine, carbs and fuel pump it can only be stater,coil,wires,plugs ect. OR clutchs but im thinking stater or coil breaking down after 3-4000 rpm
Did the pilots works? Have to start mine fuel off. Run high for a sec then bogs and half to flip the choke real quick to get it to idle up.._ but when idles it will bog a die aswell if choke was missed then i have to shut fuel to restart the 92 indy 440 lc .. Everything new inside out . Cards fully rebuilt to stock. Oh and runs best with needle clip on bottom notch.
You have to run it hard and hot after adding. Use it all!
Maybe the exhaust has a mouse nest or something in it? Maybe the clutches are messed up? It seems a little strange to me that the pilot jets would be wrong, but give it a try I guess.
Had an 86 indy 400 and put the factory air box back on and runs like a dream now
Anybody ever tell you you remind them of Ted Danson? Great vids!! Just acquired a 89 Polaris Indy trail deluxe 500
My 89 Indy 400 was boggy then figured out it was the secondary clutch opening up too fast so tightened it up and moves great now
My 96 Vmax 600 was set up sloppy rich by the factory. Bogged, horrible mileage, smoked out the whole county. Jetted down and installed hotter plugs and it ran like a champ.
How about the clutching? primary spring? Seems to have an early engagement, also might be a bit weak on the secondary. Had similar issues with my 340 lite touring. Also had issues with having just too rich mixture, runs better when it's colder outside.
make plugs gaps small...that fixed an old Skidmore for me once that was doing that same thing...drove me nuts
TAKE OFF THE MUFFLER. I don’t remember seeing you check it. I started this series because I had the same problem with my old AC 340 and wanted to know how to fix it. Did all these steps and finally realized the only thing left was the muffler. Took it off (put ear protection ON) and tried it again. WORKED LIKE A CHAMP.
Yes I will do that!
I know you may have thought of this but make sure that the motor mounts are solid because it looks like the engine is moving which may cause the primary clutch to moving backward causing a bog. This happened on my snowmobile and I made a huge improvement when the motor was moving as much. Is it mounted using rubber spacers or is it solid mounted?
Griffin Lang same thing happened to me got the clutches aligned and it fixed it right up
I have a 1995 Polaris Indy trail deluxe. Its a 488cc fan cooled and it has the same bog. I don't know if that helps but it is 100% stock!
i would check the choke and make sure they are fully closed and that they are not open a bit
Check the ramps on the primary clutch
KEEPING IN MIND THAT THIS IS A 340 AND NOT AN 800.
I mean, an engine rebuild, sure. That'll sure up the engine. But what about the clutching? The skid? Nasty dirty primary clutch with a worn out spring, improperly weighted? Same for the secondary?
Sea foam and. Marvel mystery oil is majic- used it on COUNTLESS. Cars bikes atvs-and sleds for. 35 years. Always. Put extra
mabe its something with the timing or spark.. or i have seen clutches cause bog before
Try backing off the oiler to stock or slightly below
try cleaning out chain case and grease up bearings.
I use a whole bottle in 20 liters. Will fix it for sure.
Kinda feel like I missed the "Happy Ending".
What do you think the Sea Foam is supposed to do in there fuel tank to correct issues?
What would be your scientific comment on that, without speculation.
Dunno - I was hoping it was as magical as "they" say.....that being said I did it because if I didn't someone would have said "you should have just ran seafoam thru it dumbass". So that's really why I did it.
Did you try to synchronize the carbs to the correct spec and reject it to the correct spec also primary and secondary clutch
What ended up the fix? I have same sled and the same bog.
Did you replace the fuel pump.? I may of missed that episode
Off the top of your head. What size jet do would you need for the altitude between 7000 ft and 11000 ft in elevation?
Check the Citron needle at the floats.
Could be leaking.
Did you check for sticky choke barrel? Fuel enritchment circiut?
Why doesn’t my Polaris 340 run long? It’s like it needs the choke on and off steady to be on
is the lighting and ignition coil original? my 2 cents is to confirm ignition timing.i assume 340,440 and 488 all have same components .I made my own timing wheel and pointer when i rebuild my 488(polaris timing casting marks were bang on but i wanted to make sure)
Seafoam... highest priced coleman fuel + alcohol + mineral oil on the shelves. Needed to let it run at least 30 hours while riding naked in Jan, that is what it takes to make seafoam work good.
lol, ya right eh!
I can see the engine is moving.
You should have added a splash to the oil container. A little in the oil can help clean the oil parts. But if the motor doesn't have an oil container then just forget that idea. but seafoam is fine in oil in small amounts.
Where’s the follow up? Did the jetting fix it??
I would agree with jetting it down. It sounds like its running rich. At the least, try it and see how it runs.
Powermodz jumping on this series this winter. Tis the season
good videos from my country thats bonus !
Lol, you need to burn the entire tank before you see any benefits and sea foam is not as magical as people think.
i know this is an old video but i thought it was the crank bearings or bad cdi
Dude the air screws are off back them off 1.5 turns out instead of 1 turn. Polaris specs 1 turn out for most motors but the Indy light has 1.5 turns out. This is a huge case for 2 strokes bogging when accelerating or a high load is applied at low rpm.
is the crank shaft seal properly seated/ in good shape? maybe you get the bog from an issue there...
I just dump the whole thing in
im gonna assume that this turd never got rid of the bog... after the complete rebuild.. and everything else done it still bogs. Where is the follow up on this? My brother in law had a 600 that had the same issue changed everything and never did go away... so the sled went away shortly there after.
This turd will be taking it off the turds sled rack in the next couple of weeks. This turd can't follow up on it until I have something to follow up on - the turd will fix it though as that is what this turd does. Thanks for watching this turds videos!
lol by turd i meant the sled not you mate hahaha sorry for the misunderstanding
lol its all good it was fun to write!
and right now it is a turd for sure!
I found older Polaris sleds are worse than any others for those bog issues... i have the same year sled as your axys without all the addons same color and everything kinda funny how that worked out, i may turbo it yet if i makes plans for the mountains but for now its enough for these old shoulders to hang onto for sure.
I may sound dumb saying this but check the track tension... I had an Indy sport and it did that and the track was too tight.. yours looks to be that way too seeing how quickly the track stopped when you let go of the throttle
I know this might sound dumb but if that's still an old belt in there put a new one in my 91 indy bogged like crazy! Until I put a new belt it and haven't had a problem yet
You put the stock size jets in. And set needles to stock too.. I can almost guarantee that sled ran from the factory with the stock jets in it..
Did you ever fix this?
The way it smokes even after taking the choke off , could the choke cable be adjusted up too high holding the choke partially on after you flip it down and think it's off? I have had several sleds that garage tinkerers have adjusted up due to hard starting. Are you fouling plugs/ or have wet plugs? Sounds to me like it's choked when running.
i am haveing the same problem with a 05 touring 340 i rebuilt the motor my seals where screwed but i still have the bog but when i check my plugs they look oily so i am thinking bigger jets
What is the temp out side while it's running indirect jetting for hot temp will cause big bog
Did you guys ever find out what was wrong with the sled?