Great video. Your tips on the fuel injector connectors were vary helpful and weren’t covered by other people’s videos. Also glad you showed how the fuel rails don’t need to be removed.
Out of all the videos I have seen , this is the best in detail of information. My dear friends 12 Wrangler cooler housing went out and i get to be the lucky one to fix it for them .
Marco thank you for the video. I have watched several of these and the way you did the repair is definitely one of the best. Good job of videoing the process. My has not started leaking yet but I have ordered the Dorman with FelPro gaskets. I went ahead and ordered a set of spark plugs. Thank you again
Great video, THANKS! Everything I needed to do it myself. I went with the aluminum body upgrade. The oil pipe in the front on the all metal body takes some force to seat, but goes together just like described. We had been smelling coolant for the last 9 months but several mechanics couldn't find it. Troubleshooting an oil leak and based on the amount of oil and coolant pooled between the manifolds, this hopefully will solve both problems. Thanks again!
Great video, thanks for taking the time to upload. Just bought a 14 with 50k on it, three weeks in the cooler popped and dumped oil everywhere lol. The rig is rust free and is like brand new so I am not too upset being a known issue.... just wish it would have waited till spring instead of the 2f temps we have now!
@@savagewates8373 Thats a good idea, I had several issues due to cold, a few plastic pieces that broke, fuel line lock tab and throttle body plug. I could only get my garage up to 16f, what a pain ha ha.
Nice work. About 3 mounts ago I had an oil leak that no one could figure out. Now I know what to do for the next one. I trade in my 2016 jk for a 2021 gladiator Rubicon. Thank you. Love your videos by the way.
I can’t believe jeep isn’t doing anything about this since it’s a very common problem! I’m replacing it this weekend on my jeep with only 60k miles 🤦♂️
Crazy for an oil cooler to be in that location. I suppose FCA has a very good reason for that engineering design. I just had mine done at the dealership. Started to leak at 55k miles.
its good for packaging, they put that motor in everything. it gets mounted longitudinally and transverse in everything from mini vans and cars. too jeeps, trucks and cargo vans. just wish they used aluminium and a better seal design so it didn't fail all the time.
City Dodge wanted 1200.00. However, I just made it right b4 my warranty expired. I had 54k miles when it happened 2 me. I never dogged my rig - I always take off slowly and gradually pick up speed. I now change my own oil and filter, taking care when installing filter and oil ring.
A methodical video. An old friend wants to sell his 2015 Wrangler with the leaking oil cooler. To replace is a couple of thousand, so I'm debating with myself if I should give it a go. I've preformed much more complex repairs in the past, this one is tedious, but doable.
It's only methodical because you don't know the correct procedures. He didn't torque anything, this cooler is guaranteed to leak in the near future. Know who you're dealing with before just trusting someone to tear your car apart
Thank you very much for this video. It makes a difference to see this work done by a professional that replaces this unit on a routine basis. Did Marco remove the drivers side sparkplug connectors?
No i did not. Infact, compared side by side with the originals, they seemed thicker and better quality. Since the video, have probably done two dozen more of these repairs, have had zero further issues with any of them.
I'm waiting for one on back order. Need to find out if the replacement is aluminum or plastic. Thankfully I bought the lifetime warranty.... it paid for itself when I had the #2 cylinder issue.
That was a good detailed step-by-step. I was just wondering why it didn’t get replaced with an all aluminum housing and cooler rather than the plastic and aluminum ?
In the process now. Got it all buttoned up but the fuel rail was seeded properly so when I fired the engine I started leaking gas. Gotta take it apart again. I’m sure lots of cuss words will be had .
Question - we recently had this replaced on my daughter’s 2011 Chrysler 200 limited convertible that has the Penastar engine in it. Currently it’s throwing a code that I need to replace the oil pressure sensor which a new one came on the full oil cooler replacement housing like y’all have here so in order to do that it says to release the fuel system and I’ve watched a ton of videos on this and never see anyone do it. I got my instructions printed from AllData which your friend may use at his job like I do. Just wanted to know if I truly need to do that (assuming it’s for when I take off the fuel rail?
Not sure the technical name, we call them crimps. You can get them at Harbor Frieght tools, just about any auto parts store, or even like Lowes or Home Depot. Hope that helps
Thanks for this video. I wound up here after doing a search for oil cooler replacement on the Pentastar and will use the all-aluminum heat echanger that you noted in another video. I actually just bought a 2016 Caravan and this part scares the hell out of me, among other crappy plastic parts on this Pentastar. I also live in a hot climate and I wanna get ahead of this ticking time bomb. Anyway, great video, I found it useful as hell, I don't own a Jeep anymore but I had of a blast when I did! Did you by chance get rid of this very stupid plastic fuel rail on the pentastar? I will probably do plugs, oil cooler, fuel rail, etc. all at the same time. Can you think of anything else? Thanks again!!
Great video and it gave me some ideas on how to do it easier. I have another issue which is with the O2 sensors. i have replaced them all and i am still getting a light. I had it checked and its telling me that its due to low voltage. Battery and the alternator are good. any suggestions?
@JeepingForBeginners ok, so the 2011 don't have that. No wonder why the part only came up for the 2012 and up. I do have a oil leak coming from somewhere.
The problem is that it's usually the gaskets on the bottom that fail, not the plastic housing itself. So in that case, the aluminum housing isn't going to help.
The Dorman part was on a back order at the time. Ironically so was the Mopar part. But when I inquired, it was faster to get the Mopar one. It was not necessarily a preference, just current availability at the time.
1 quart of oil isnt enough if you do this job drain your oil before starting the car. If you got some coolant in the engine then your oil is contaminated and you shouldnt start the car. Safe bet is to do an oil change after installing the oil filter housing so youll know if coolant got into the pan. Also use the all aluminum replacement as its much better than the redesigned mopar one that is still mostly plastic.
hmmm, I was inpressed by the "true step by step" but instead of letting us know the order and torque of the oil cooler, fade to black..... good none the less.
Out here in the desert, the average I see them is about the 60 to 70k range... but I am sure climate makes a difference.... the oil cooler is in a spot where excessive heat exists... rubber and plastic breaks down under heat... so it's hard to say a typical average across the board... colder climates may last longer, OR may speed up the process. Not sure. But like I said, my experience shows about the 60 to 70k mileage range.....
Post covid... quality of aftermarket parts like gaskets have gone downhill I've found. You shouldn't need a new cooler, just the gaskets. What type of oil do run?
There’s several torque specs. But of course, like most shop and stealership techs, they prefer the calibrated elbow technique. This is one of the reasons so many people have to have jobs done several times. Nobody holds techs responsible anymore. Do it right the first time and you’ll only do it once.
If anyone knows of a company that mfc all aluminum oil coolers for 2018 JL please let me know. Unless the JK fitment is exact, then I will purchase. Dealing with a leak atm. Thanks in advance.
First off. Being a certified Jeep mechanic, if he is one? Always disconnect the battery cable anytime you are disconnecting electrical plugs. Also you should never use the palm of your hand to loosen anything! You have a lot of nerves in your palms that can be permanently damaged. And remove rubber hose fittings by twisting them back and forth. And last but not least. TORQUE all nuts and bolts. Just guessing is not good enough, even if you think you have a feel for it. Those little bolts are Inch pounds of torque. And you can easily over or under torque them. Over all, a good video though. 😊
At minute 25.45 after the lower intake is reinstalled, YOU, for some bizarre reason, decide to SKIP showing the "reassembly" of several components like fuel injector wiring connectors, fuel lines, upper manifold bolts and hoses and cut to the completion. Why..... the job is not done at that point. Did you inquire with your Tech Marco about that edit? If your channel is "Jeeping for beginners" wouldn't you think those Sequential steps and techniques would be important? Great job by Marco up to that point until you cut him off. Folks try to find a legit video for the last half of the fix i suppose. Also adhere to Torque Specs on these bolts and don't buy a plastic housing like the one used in the video. Dorman produces a Made in the USA all aluminum assembly. Why go through all that work to replace a failed plastic composite housing with a plastic housing that fails ........because it is plastic. Great job Marco.... you should be the one with the TH-cam videos.
What's the deal with you back alley mechanics. In my shop, if I find out you didn't torque each bolt to specification, you're done working for me. ALL bolts gets torque, PERIOD. This way you know for sure the professional job was done right the first time.
Great video. Your tips on the fuel injector connectors were vary helpful and weren’t covered by other people’s videos. Also glad you showed how the fuel rails don’t need to be removed.
Out of all the videos I have seen , this is the best in detail of information. My dear friends 12 Wrangler cooler housing went out and i get to be the lucky one to fix it for them .
You're the man, Marco. Thanks for going through how to do this step by step.
Marco thank you for the video. I have watched several of these and the way you did the repair is definitely one of the best. Good job of videoing the process. My has not started leaking yet but I have ordered the Dorman with FelPro gaskets. I went ahead and ordered a set of spark plugs.
Thank you again
Great video, THANKS! Everything I needed to do it myself. I went with the aluminum body upgrade. The oil pipe in the front on the all metal body takes some force to seat, but goes together just like described.
We had been smelling coolant for the last 9 months but several mechanics couldn't find it. Troubleshooting an oil leak and based on the amount of oil and coolant pooled between the manifolds, this hopefully will solve both problems.
Thanks again!
Do your sparkplugs at the same time. You have to take all that stuff off to get them anyways.
Great video, thanks for taking the time to upload. Just bought a 14 with 50k on it, three weeks in the cooler popped and dumped oil everywhere lol. The rig is rust free and is like brand new so I am not too upset being a known issue.... just wish it would have waited till spring instead of the 2f temps we have now!
Mine is a 15 with 100k and it just popped Monday I waited till it could warm up in the 30 to do it
@@savagewates8373 Thats a good idea, I had several issues due to cold, a few plastic pieces that broke, fuel line lock tab and throttle body plug. I could only get my garage up to 16f, what a pain ha ha.
Good job my friend you're hired
Nice work. About 3 mounts ago I had an oil leak that no one could figure out. Now I know what to do for the next one. I trade in my 2016 jk for a 2021 gladiator Rubicon. Thank you. Love your videos by the way.
I can’t believe jeep isn’t doing anything about this since it’s a very common problem! I’m replacing it this weekend on my jeep with only 60k miles 🤦♂️
I got a Mishimoto aluminum oil cooler to install very very soon. Great looking unit with upgraded seals.
How did it work out? I can’t find anyone that used the Mishimoto and then followed up with how it went and how it’s working.
@@micd9256 so far working great. It comes with a lifetime warranty.
Crazy for an oil cooler to be in that location. I suppose FCA has a very good reason for that engineering design. I just had mine done at the dealership. Started to leak at 55k miles.
Why? Throw that money down the drain their buddy...lol
The oil cooler is cooled by the engine cooling system
its good for packaging, they put that motor in everything. it gets mounted longitudinally and transverse in everything from mini vans and cars. too jeeps, trucks and cargo vans. just wish they used aluminium and a better seal design so it didn't fail all the time.
what did the dealer charge?
City Dodge wanted 1200.00. However, I just made it right b4 my warranty expired. I had 54k miles when it happened 2 me. I never dogged my rig - I always take off slowly and gradually pick up speed. I now change my own oil and filter, taking care when installing filter and oil ring.
A methodical video. An old friend wants to sell his 2015 Wrangler with the leaking oil cooler. To replace is a couple of thousand, so I'm debating with myself if I should give it a go. I've preformed much more complex repairs in the past, this one is tedious, but doable.
It's only methodical because you don't know the correct procedures. He didn't torque anything, this cooler is guaranteed to leak in the near future. Know who you're dealing with before just trusting someone to tear your car apart
Could you list torque specs for the oil cooler and manifolds?
106 inch pounds oil cooling unit and lower intake ❤
Kudos to Marco! Very nice job, well done. Marco was a true professional! Nice job on the video… good questions that you asked! 👍🏻🇺🇸
Great work. Thanks for doing this DIY video. Such a good opportunity to replace spark plugs on the left head. Thanks.
Excellent video , I’m going to do my oil cooler housing change today , thanks 2 both guys
Thank you very much for this video. It makes a difference to see this work done by a professional that replaces this unit on a routine basis. Did Marco remove the drivers side sparkplug connectors?
Did you have any issues with the O-rings on the Dorman unit just studying to see if I need to buy alternative sets
No i did not. Infact, compared side by side with the originals, they seemed thicker and better quality. Since the video, have probably done two dozen more of these repairs, have had zero further issues with any of them.
I'm waiting for one on back order. Need to find out if the replacement is aluminum or plastic. Thankfully I bought the lifetime warranty.... it paid for itself when I had the #2 cylinder issue.
That was a good detailed step-by-step. I was just wondering why it didn’t get replaced with an all aluminum housing and cooler rather than the plastic and aluminum ?
At the time, the all aluminum one was on back order. With as bad as the leak was, I couldn't wait
I used a turkey baster to suck the oil out of the pockets where the o rings leaked
I did the exact same thing! 👍
I won't go to your houses for Thanksgiving
It’s a great video, I was looking for torque specs my new Dorman all alloy unit calls for 106 it just seems like too much
That's inch pounds not foot pounds ✌️
“Oh, look at that. We have a friend arriving.” As if he didn’t know he was going to show up haha
Did you change the oil after installation before start up seeing some coolent would have gotten into the oil once you removed the cooler?
I'd like to borrow marco. Any benefits to using a non oem that has an all aluminum body, instead of plastic on the oil filter?
I have a video about that being uploaded this weekend
I get to do this on my 2012 JKU. Should be a lot of fun.
Easy peasy. No sweat. 😉
In the process now. Got it all buttoned up but the fuel rail was seeded properly so when I fired the engine I started leaking gas. Gotta take it apart again. I’m sure lots of cuss words will be had .
When you’re at that point you might as well change the plugs while you’re at it since you have to take off the top of the intake to do it.
Question - we recently had this replaced on my daughter’s 2011 Chrysler 200 limited convertible that has the Penastar engine in it. Currently it’s throwing a code that I need to replace the oil pressure sensor which a new one came on the full oil cooler replacement housing like y’all have here so in order to do that it says to release the fuel system and I’ve watched a ton of videos on this and never see anyone do it. I got my instructions printed from AllData which your friend may use at his job like I do. Just wanted to know if I truly need to do that (assuming it’s for when I take off the fuel rail?
What are those coolant hose clamp called? The one that prevents coolant loss. Thank you.
Not sure the technical name, we call them crimps. You can get them at Harbor Frieght tools, just about any auto parts store, or even like Lowes or Home Depot. Hope that helps
@ it does. Thank you.
Thanks for this video. I wound up here after doing a search for oil cooler replacement on the Pentastar and will use the all-aluminum heat echanger that you noted in another video. I actually just bought a 2016 Caravan and this part scares the hell out of me, among other crappy plastic parts on this Pentastar. I also live in a hot climate and I wanna get ahead of this ticking time bomb. Anyway, great video, I found it useful as hell, I don't own a Jeep anymore but I had of a blast when I did! Did you by chance get rid of this very stupid plastic fuel rail on the pentastar? I will probably do plugs, oil cooler, fuel rail, etc. all at the same time. Can you think of anything else? Thanks again!!
Great video and it gave me some ideas on how to do it easier. I have another issue which is with the O2 sensors. i have replaced them all and i am still getting a light. I had it checked and its telling me that its due to low voltage. Battery and the alternator are good. any suggestions?
PCV hose might’ve broke and you have a leak
Is the oil filter cooler housing the same for 2011? I cannot find any videos about that.
No, the oil filter on the 3.8l is a spin on filter I believe located under the motor.... this issue is primarily for the 3.6l Pentastar....
@JeepingForBeginners ok, so the 2011 don't have that. No wonder why the part only came up for the 2012 and up. I do have a oil leak coming from somewhere.
Those are known for valve cover leaks, and crank seal leaks. A good power wash followed by adding some engine dye, will help determine where for sure
Does Marco recommend the aluminum replacement ones like Dorman over OEM plastic?
The problem is that it's usually the gaskets on the bottom that fail, not the plastic housing itself. So in that case, the aluminum housing isn't going to help.
Marco should have said you were stupid buying a Chrysler product.But of course Marco has done a million of these 😂
Any particular reason you replaced with the Mopar unit rather than the aluminum Dorman part?
The Dorman part was on a back order at the time. Ironically so was the Mopar part. But when I inquired, it was faster to get the Mopar one. It was not necessarily a preference, just current availability at the time.
1 quart of oil isnt enough if you do this job drain your oil before starting the car. If you got some coolant in the engine then your oil is contaminated and you shouldnt start the car. Safe bet is to do an oil change after installing the oil filter housing so youll know if coolant got into the pan. Also use the all aluminum replacement as its much better than the redesigned mopar one that is still mostly plastic.
hmmm, I was inpressed by the "true step by step" but instead of letting us know the order and torque of the oil cooler, fade to black..... good none the less.
Did you the fuel pump fuse
Awesome video, thank you!
Great video-thanks
At what mileage do you see these oil filter/cooler housing leaks?
Out here in the desert, the average I see them is about the 60 to 70k range... but I am sure climate makes a difference.... the oil cooler is in a spot where excessive heat exists... rubber and plastic breaks down under heat... so it's hard to say a typical average across the board... colder climates may last longer, OR may speed up the process. Not sure. But like I said, my experience shows about the 60 to 70k mileage range.....
@@JeepingForBeginners thanks.
Mine is at 93k
53000 for me on my 2015 Hard Rock Ed
i changed my second one to a aluminum one. a year later this one is leaking. time for another one. why did this happen so fast. its like one a year
Post covid... quality of aftermarket parts like gaskets have gone downhill I've found. You shouldn't need a new cooler, just the gaskets. What type of oil do run?
Good job brother..!!!
Great video
Super content!
So there’s no torque specs on this job?
There’s several torque specs. But of course, like most shop and stealership techs, they prefer the calibrated elbow technique. This is one of the reasons so many people have to have jobs done several times. Nobody holds techs responsible anymore. Do it right the first time and you’ll only do it once.
Where’s Marco located?
Jeep Only, master tech. LAS Vegas
Thanks !!!
You're welcome 😊
If anyone knows of a company that mfc all aluminum oil coolers for 2018 JL please let me know. Unless the JK fitment is exact, then I will purchase. Dealing with a leak atm. Thanks in advance.
Looks like a pain to work on.
First off. Being a certified Jeep mechanic, if he is one? Always disconnect the battery cable anytime you are disconnecting electrical plugs. Also you should never use the palm of your hand to loosen anything! You have a lot of nerves in your palms that can be permanently damaged. And remove rubber hose fittings by twisting them back and forth. And last but not least. TORQUE all nuts and bolts. Just guessing is not good enough, even if you think you have a feel for it. Those little bolts are Inch pounds of torque. And you can easily over or under torque them. Over all, a good video though. 😊
At minute 25.45 after the lower intake is reinstalled, YOU, for some bizarre reason, decide to SKIP showing the "reassembly" of several components like fuel injector wiring connectors, fuel lines, upper manifold bolts and hoses and cut to the completion. Why..... the job is not done at that point. Did you inquire with your Tech Marco about that edit? If your channel is "Jeeping for beginners" wouldn't you think those Sequential steps and techniques would be important? Great job by Marco up to that point until you cut him off. Folks try to find a legit video for the last half of the fix i suppose. Also adhere to Torque Specs on these bolts and don't buy a plastic housing like the one used in the video. Dorman produces a Made in the USA all aluminum assembly. Why go through all that work to replace a failed plastic composite housing with a plastic housing that fails ........because it is plastic. Great job Marco.... you should be the one with the TH-cam videos.
Step 1) go to a car dealer. Step two) trade it in for a reliable ride. Repair solved!
What's the deal with you back alley mechanics. In my shop, if I find out you didn't torque each bolt to specification, you're done working for me. ALL bolts gets torque, PERIOD. This way you know for sure the professional job was done right the first time.
Relax bud
Great video
Gracias . 😀