Pentastar V6 Oil Cooler Replacement: Step-by-Step Guide
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 3 ก.ค. 2024
- Today, I'm all about stopping the leak that has been bothering me since the last oil change. I thought the tech at the dealer overtightened the cap as that is a common issue and will create a crack in the housing where the oil filter sits. However, my leak is that like that. It's deeper down. Apparently these fail very frequently but as of this video there has not been a recall on that plastic housing yet. Dorman to the rescue. They just released the upgraded Aluminum Engine Oil Filter Housing with Oil Cooler and Filter. A 2 hour project took me 6. I wish there was a video I could reference too...
Here is my journey.
Below find a list to everything you will need if you don't already have it.
Now, it's been asked a few times and I originally didn't include the info because if you got your part from a reputable place it would have come with the torque specs on the oil cooler. There are OEM (in plastic) and Dormans (in metal). Here is a link to a Wrangler Forum where there are screenshots of the instructions with pictures. I would follow the instructions that come with your cooler but here is one from another user who did a step by step writeup of his OEM cooler replacement:
wranglerjkforum.net/threads/3...
And keep in mind, get a quality part or this one is just practice.
Good luck!
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00:00 - Intro
01:26 - Disassembly
06:06 - Oil Cooler Assembly
08:44 - Installation
10:40 - Torque and Bolt Pattern
14:03 - Assembly
15:24 - Inspecting the old part
#Turbo_Snail
#Turbo Snail Cars
#Pentastar
#Oil Cooler Housing
#Oil Leak
#Pentastar V6
#Fixing Oil Leak
#Oil cooler
#oil cooler install
#oil cooler installation
#pentastar oil cooler
#oil cooler failure
#oil filter leak - ยานยนต์และพาหนะ
That is THE cleanest engine needing an oil cooler replaced EVER
😝 I just make it a habit when I clean the car, top of fluids and wipe things down in the engine bay. I also do the door jambs.
I do appreciate someone noticing :)
Mine is a 2021…3k miles out of the 60k warranty and looked as just as clean (until you got to the part where it’s leaking oil)! 😢
Oh boy. That sucks. It’s not a hard job. Especially if it’s a rear wheel drive setup.
Lol, that's exactly what I just cracked open the comments to say 🤣. About to tackle this job on my 2014 Wrangler for the second time and man, I sure wish it was that spotless under my hood...
Thank you for your explanation on this upgraded housing! I got the aluminum housing myself from Dorman. Great video Daniel.
In hindsight I could have gotten the one without the cooler on top and transfer it but I don’t regret spending the extra money. Thank you for your nice comment.
I was pleasantly surprised to see Dave Lombardo doing vehicle repair videos on TH-cam.🙂
Yeah, I do that, slaying heavy metal drums is sometimes so boring. But I had my stunt double stand in for me today. I bet you couldn't even tell. :)
Thanks for watching.
@@Turbo_Snail Absolutely!
Detailed with extreme caoutions. Thanks
As far as the two Dorman units go, the y are made in the USA, here are the differences between the two and why they exist. There are at least three Generations of 3.6 Pentastar V6s approximately 2010 to present. The first gen uses a different oil bypass valve that is built into the oil filter cap and thusly the filter is different also. If you want the aluminum Dorman base and have a gen one Pentastar you will need the complete unit as you bought in this video and will have to know that from now on you will need to purchase the gen two oil filter at every oil change now as this updates the base, filter, and cap to the gen two style bypass valve. If you have a gen two Pentastar you only need the Dorman oil cooler base manifold and will just transfer all the other components over including the heat exchanger unit on top. If you suspect the heat exchanger of failure, that is you have oil in your coolant or coolant in your oil, remember oil and water don’t mix, then there is no problem with replacing a gen two with the whole assembly as you did here. The gen three Pentastar has both VVT variable valve timing and VVL variable valve lift, and neither the Dorman base or complete assembly will work on that engine. Also of note, the oil pressure sensor on the back of this manifold is a common failure part. When I changed mine, I just bought two new sensors from MOPAR as they are difficult to get to, so might as well do them when changing this unit. As far as the cheap China parts, I’ve heard horror stories of continued leaking as well as the sensors that come with them failing and causing engine trouble codes right after installation. This is also why I only put MOPAR sensors on. And just a side note. The new sensors came with new thread sealant installed.
Great write up. I wish I could pin this to the top. Thanks for the research and time.
When did they start using the gen 3? my wifes 2017 dodge charger shows it being compatible with the dorman part.
Dorman shows the complete unit as compatible with my 2016 JK as well. Hopefully it works!
@@mooosestang I’m a Jeep guy so all my research has been Jeep related. I’m 99.9% sure the 2017 Jeeps still use Gen two, so most likely should work on your wife’s Charger. If Dorman says it’s compatible, I would be inclined to trust that.
@@dano8065 I believe you should be good to go either way with a 2016 Jeep. The base only was what I needed for my 2014 Wrangler.
Great video! I notice my wife's T&C was marking its territory yesterday. I went and checked and it looked like there was wet oil from around the end with the oil filter. It has 182k on it and I knew this was a possibility. Time order this, some sensors, lower control arms, and maybe some sparkplugs.
Oh man. At least you got your money worth. Mine leaked at 55k miles. It was small but what an excuse to make another video.
@Turbo_Snail the Dorman unit out everywhere too. I talked to Dorman, and they don't have an ETA of when it will be back in stock.
if the leak is small, just wait. Get the good stuff if you can
@Turbo_Snail Advance Auto let me order one today so we'll see. 20% off too. If that doesn't work out OReilly's can get the MOPAR one and it shows it has sensors for about $300.
Excellent Video! Thank You!
It wasn’t the easiest project but easier than I thought it would be. Good luck!
Did this to my 2015 Grand Cherokee due to some light leak. Best upgrade to do. I do not know how much a mechanic would have charged but I feel like I saved a lot of money DIY. Kit was under $290 and while there I did the Spark Plugs and replaced a Coil pack. I wish I would have known about RIPP Coil Packs, I would have done that too. :)
look at our RIPP Coil pack video before buying.
My ram promaster was bid at 1300+ for the replacement, not an upgrade.
@@blur-media-co3512 Ouch!!!
Dorman is made in the USA and they were the first ones to come up with the upgraded Oil Cooler Design.
I thought they were. It’s holding strong 10k miles later. It’s an excellent quality product.
Well…. I think I jinxed myself. Checked it again this morning. And I got a puddle of oil in the left side of the valley. I took it straightaway to Carmax this morning. They’re gonna replace it with the upgraded MOPAR OEM part. Free of charge. Since it’s with in the 30 day warranty. I still have the extended warranty too. They knew of the issue on those 3.6. So thank god I caught in time.
Gosh darn you got lucky! Check the extended warranty from carmax. I heard good things. But it’s pricey.
What is an upgraded MOPAR OEM part? I hope it's not plastic.
Thing is, if Chrysler had gotten ahead of this all the way back when the engine first came out, automotive mags and shows would have been singing their praises to the sky and Chrysler's rep would have blossomed. Who knows, such a move might have even put them ahead of Japan, Germany and Korea.
People who like Chryslers generally harken back to the glory days when it was understood that Chrysler=BULLETPROOF durability.
Good job
Thank you.
My 21 pentastar runs excellent. But I use Mobile One full synthetic, k&n air filter and Lucas fuel stabilizer..😮
I use pennzoil as that is what was tested and approved from the factory. I love mobile 1 but only on my German vehicles. K&N is great. Don’t over-oil it. I did a video on cleaning and maintenance. I like the Mopar CAI. You just wash and put it back in. Did a video on that as well. But K&N never disappointed. I don’t think there is a need for the fuel stabilizer. I used 6 month old fuel without any issues. Put that money towards another performance part. I’ve been running my 200 for about 70k miles now on ethanol. Runs perfect still.
wow this is the best video Ive seen replacing the oil cooler, next time any one of both of my 200C AWD's leak, I could fix myself instead of taking to the dealership excellent video
Thank you. How much is the job at the dealer btw? Mine quoted $900 plus the part. So $277+oil change is all I’m in on this one.
@@Turbo_SnailI know this was a year ago, but I got quoted $1200 from my local Chrysler dealership. Paid $327 for the upgrade and will be doing it myself this weekend.
@jodwhitfield make sure you get the Dorman one.
@turbo_snail what did u use on the gaskets and does that keep them in ? And do you have to flush coolant and oil change ?
@michaelghanbari8733 I used assembly fluid. Links in the description. Helps them not getting pinched when matting the top to it. I did not flush the coolant but my oil change was due so I did that.
Great video Daniel 👍 I like that Dorman kit you choose. I think they make good parts as well and, it's aluminum now.
How did your daughter do in the drifting contest?
Take care.
Thank you Greg. We never went drifting :(. They won’t allow us on the track yet. No roll bar and still unidentified oil leak. I think it’s the transmission. But we did the teen driver challenge. She did excellent! :)
@@Turbo_Snail That's great Daniel. Congratulations🥳
Thanks!
Oh wow. Thank you very much, but you shouldn’t have. Everyone here has been so nice that’s why I keep making the videos. Thanks again. It’s much appreciated!!!
I believe that When somebody does a good job, you give them some reward to keep them motivated. Thank you so much for taking time and making this video it was very helpful.
@torresx06 thank you again for your kindness.
The MOST important part to remove is the intake part it the back of the intake . The square box has grommets that has no bolts to take out .
I think mine does have a bolt on it. It's a pain to get to but I make it a point to put it back on. I know one day I'll just give up not throw it away like on all other pentestar engines.
Followed this to a tee. Once i turned the car on there was an insane ticking noise. Took about 2 mins of the car being on for the ticking to go away.. I’m hoping the oil cooler needed to be lubricated and cycle in some oil.. fingers crossed
Hm interesting. I hope all is good. You added oil and coolant after the install. Double check that it doesn’t leak after a few drives. I ended up changing the oil just in case the coolant contaminated the oil.
@@Turbo_Snail yup, topped off the coolant, topped off oil.. finished late last night so had the car on for 20 mins, drove maybe 3-4 miles. Ticking went away.. well see how she fires up when i get home from work. Hopefully it was just oil filling the new cooler/housing. Will update!
Hello, I've been waiting for Dorman products since January, but I still haven't been able to purchase them. Are there any brands you would recommend as alternatives? thank you.
That blows. Usually I buy aftermarket stuff myself to safe money, but with this part it's a bit sketchy. If you can wait I would. If not, try your local auto parts store. Good luck!
Is the to sensor the one that controls the temp of the oil and coolant
If I remember right there are 2. One for pressure and one for temperature. It doesn’t control it. It just measures it.
What did you use for greasing rubber gaskets?
Assembly lube. I put links in the description. When I was doing my fuel injector video, one of the o-rings broke because I tried to put it in dry. Fuel sprayed everywhere. Ever since then I use assembly fluid. Best stuff ever. You need a bottle in your life.
I have the extended warranty. All good
That is most excellent.
Dorman.
Reputable.
Absolutely. We compared Dorman vs Chinese knockoffs. The quality is apparent. If you want metal shards in your system you gotta go cheap knockoff.
@@Turbo_Snail Oh I see. But Dorman compared to OEM is ehhhh. They’re very hit or miss in a high volume repair shop.
Depends on the comparison I suppose. Their door handles are fine. Their intake manifolds can be troublesome.
I can only speak to the stuff I’m using and the oil cooler is superior to the knockoffs as well as oem. So is the thermostat housing. The OEM housing is plastic and it warps under constant heat cycles. That’s why there are so many failures.
@@Turbo_Snail I certainly like the idea of metal construction for such hot parts. Maybe i’ll give the Dorman a shot, thanks
I wonder if the aluminum replacement will fix it completely or if it was actually those seals that got brittle and stop sealing.. Great video!
People have been replacing them for years. What happens is that as your engine cycles from cold to hot to cold, over the years the plastic warps. If they would have made it from aluminum to begin with, I wouldn’t have had a chance to make this video. So if you have to replace it, make sure it’s the aluminum version. Preferably from dorman. I’ve heard that the cheap ones could have rough castings and metal ending up in your system.
@@Turbo_Snail ok.. And the interval for replacing the spark plugs? Every 30-40k miles? Thanks for the reply..
Officially on the v6 is 100k. I’m at 63k right now and I’m not gentle on my engine and they’re still prefect. If you’re already this far in it, might as well change those spark plugs. I haven’t yet.
@@Turbo_Snail Yeah, most definitely if one’s changing the oil cooler, might as well replace the spark plugs. Thank you!
@@Turbo_Snail Just noticed my oil cooler started leaking at 52k miles after a long trip from FL to TN. I’m still in TN and bought a Qt of oil to replenish it as we head down to FL. I’m praying the leak won’t be extensive as the trip is over 800 miles. Once I get around to replace it with Aluminum Doorman unit, I’ll replace the spark plugs as well.
I only had to change the gaskets on my oil filter housing when I went in to change the knock sensor at the time. The gasket that failed on mine was the stem gasket it got flattened too much. When my unit does go I will definitely be buying the Dorman one you installed! Apparently you can now also get an aluminum thermostat housing and just behind it there's a plastic part that's also been upgraded. Hopefully Chrysler Dodge makers get the memo and start using the upgraded parts at the factory.
Oh nice. Good to know. If I ever need a thermostat housing, it’ll be aluminum as well. That plastic crap don’t last long. Especially here in Florida.
@@Turbo_Snail I think it was a video from Motor City Mechanic that talked about the upgraded version of the thermostat housing and the tube replacement part that runs behind it that's also upgraded now.
They wouldnt do that because their making millions off of failed oil coolers
@Turbo_Snail Well, now I'm doing the aluminum housing upgrade. lol I forgot to ask what kind of tape was that red tape that you used to cover up the engine intake?. ports
@Relevantminded hm trying to remember It’s been a while. I usually just stuff towels in there. I got a ton of micro fiber towels I get cheap if Amazon. amzn.to/42wPBRi
They are good for detailing and eventually they become dirt towels and other stuff.
What torque bit did you use to take off the filter housing ?
oh man. I don't remember anymore. Just make sure you have a good set as you need a variety of sizes. Maybe someone over at PentastarV6Performance on Facebook can chime in on this one.
@@Turbo_Snail it ended up being a E8 torx, I appreciate the help!
I wish I could replace all of the plastic parts on my Pentastar and replace them all with metal parts. Plastic engine parts are a huge error in my opinion.
I think it's a carryover from the Mercedes marriage. When looking at my sons S500, the oil coolers look identical. Maybe next generation there will be no plastic parts on the engine. But then again, who are we kidding anyways.
Does the dorman cap tell you what the filter bypass pressure is?
no it does not. It shows torque setting so you don't over tighten it.
What type of lube did u use for the o-rings and gaskets? Is it really necessary or can I go without it? Thanx
I would say don’t skip that lube. I usually put links in the description. I once tore an o-ring on the fuel injector and fuel was spraying everywhere. Cost me 2 hours to take everything apart and put it back together. Plus a set of o-rings that were on back order.
I like assembly fluid but as long as it doesn’t go in dry it’s better than nothing. Since that day I never put anything together without assembly fluid. It was a tough lessen learned.
@@Turbo_Snail awesome thanx!
Hello..what's the torque for the oil housing screws..thanks for advance
Check my description. I didn't put that in there as I heard that different brands may have different torque. It should be in your paper that came with it. However, for the Dorman I put it in the description after the face. Yet, some people still managed to use ft-lb instead of in-lb. Be careful out there. SAE is very confusing.
LOL! 13:20 Im sure that NOT even the mechanics at the dealership torque those bolts... great job!
Thank you. I’m sure they do. Don’t they? I’m sure they do.
@@Turbo_Snail weel maybe, yes, I have lived so many nightmares with dealership mechanics, I keep going to the dealer for repairs and maintenance because they offer 2 year warranty on jobs, no other shop offers that....
That’s true. But at this point…. I’m the warranty.
What would a shop charge for this job? Mine just blew today. Or at least I just noticed it today. Debating doing it myself or taking it to a parts replacer. I can't find a mechanic around here, just parts replacers. 2016 RAM 1500 with ~67k miles.
I understand they start to fail around 50-90k miles. It’s just a bad design. If you know how to put together IKEA furniture, you can do this. I’ve heard shops charge from $1100-1600 for this job. Make sure you torque it right. Check my description for links. Hope you get that sorted out. Good luck!
torque specs for the adapter engine oil filter housing????
Apologies for not putting it in the video. I’ll try to amend it if it lets me.
Those coolers get damaged frequently? I saw a lot of people posting videos about it.
It’s a big issue. Some break the cooler by over tightening the cap. Most have an issue where the plastic warps during warm/cool cycles. It’s plastic on top of metal. These new engines also run hotter than engines of yesteryear to get better burn of all the fumes/gasses. Mine died before I even hit 60k miles / 100k km.
What was the torque for installing the oil cooler housing?
Check your paperwork. If you got Dorman it’s in the description. I think I also put a link to someone else who did it just to double verify.
Did you have to bleed the coolant system after?
I did not. I topped of then coolant tank twice. No issues as of yet and I’ve driven at least 3-4k miles since the install.
This oil cooler feets to the dodge journey 3.6 v6 2013?
Yes same thing.
How do you get that bracket back on in the back
It is the bane of my existence. Just lots of patience. I have to do spark plugs and I’m dressing the entire job because of the bracket. Small hands help. My Sasquatch hands don’t help.
Have you noticed higher oil Temps with the Dorman?
not at all.
You don't need to drain the oil or coolant before taking out the Oil Cooler?
Technically no. But I did an oil change afterwards because it was due. I did not change the coolant. But you can see that some leaked out from the cooler and I had to suck it out with the fluid extractor (just because I had one, I could have done that with a shop vac too).
Does the coolant need to be drained first? I do not have the oil evacuator, like to the one in the video? Also, what are the part numbers for the sensors? My OEM cooler is at 148K miles, so I might as well replace the sensors, while I have get to them.
The coolant does not need to be drained. I think a cheap shop vac should get all than nastiness out of there as well. Or a bunch of towels to absorb it. Rewatch that part to see how much comes out. There will be a small puddle. The old sensors should be fine. Check with the PentastarV6Performance group on Facebook. They probably have the answer to all that. If you do get new sensors make sure you get them properly seated, sealed and torqued. For the sensors, check Amazon.
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Double check to make sure it's all compatible with your car.
Please keep in mind that aftermarket sensors may throw codes. I recommend getting OEM sensors.
@@Turbo_Snail I think draining a little coolant is best. you want the level below that housing or you run the risk of getting coolant in your oil when you remove it.
@@mooosestang probably right. However, I did a full oil change right after just to make sure there wasn't any coolant in my oil. Too close for comfort.
@@Turbo_Snail I'm down to the oil housing now and i guess if you back out the bolts slowly any coolant that's still up in the housing will slowly drain off into the valley. it's probably very little anyway. I just did an oil change on her car so i'd like to avoid it. Not the hardest thing i've had to do on a motor.
@@Turbo_Snail Yeah, doesn't look possible for the coolant to get in the oil. you do lose some coolant though. I didn't drain any and it filled up the valley, but not up to the ports. definitely want to vacuum out any oil before pulling it if you don't drain the coolant or it will overflow and create an oil/water mess. I honestly can't see a point of failure except the oring that goes into the block was completely flattened out. plastic housing could be warped. This experience has made me not want to buy anything with this motor. Poorly designed way to attach and oil filter to an engine.
I just replaced mine on challenger and I finished everything and started the car then it starts to leak oil out of top of oil cooler where the cap is ,why would that be ?
Check the gasket. Make sure it’s not pinched. If it is, just get a new oil filter. It’ll come with a new gasket that goes in the orange cap. Maybe it’s not in the right place.
@@Turbo_Snail I just figured it out literally I didn’t put the large o ring on the cap correctly so it caused it to leak but I just put in correct place and now there is no leak but there’s more oil to clean out in future from leakage 🙃🥲
Can someone help me i have been looking for what torque the 5 screws in the oil cooler is set at
its in the instruction sheet from your manufacturer. There are different manufacturers and different materials, there may be different torque settings. I do not have my sheet it came with on my, but there should have been one with your part.
wranglerjkforum.net/threads/3-6l-oil-filter-oil-cooler-adaptor-housing-replacement.26638/
Check out this writeup I found for you!
I could be wrong, but it looked like u forgot to hike up the coolant hose clamp going to the oil filter housing. Never saw u grab it with pliers and the placement in the video looks pretty far back where I can’t really see mine after I tighten it. I could be wrong of course.
I appreciate looking out. I did in fact do it. When I edited the video I noticed the same thing and I stuck a GoPro down there and it is on properly. I scared me for a moment.
quick tip when doing this please make sure to put filter cap back on so is not to drop anything Down in the Hole you didn't do that sir
Thanks for the tip.
How did you complete that job without damaging your watch?
I don't even remember wearing one. Which one was it? I guess I gotta rewatch my videos. But all my modern watches have sapphire crystal so no scratches.
Do you know the torque for the torxs?
Yes. Check the description, however these do not apply if you do not have a Dorman unit. Go with whatever is on the sheet that came with your unit.
What were the signs you saw or heard that let you know of the failed oil cooler?
Good question. I’ve seen many failed coolers on the forums. So I shined a light down and found a puddle of oil. I caught it very early so there wasn’t really a big mess. If you let it go for too long you’ll have oil coming out the back of the engine. Or worst case, oil and coolant mixing.
@@Turbo_Snail ok I’ll check it. I just got the car from Carmax a week ago. And saw these blogs on TH-cam about this motor. So far it sounds good. No oil consumption. But I haven’t really dived in under the hood yet. But thanks. I’ll keep an eye on it
As long as you keep her maintained, she’ll do very well. These engines are in pretty much every model. They are pretty reliable.
I haven't noticed any oil leaks on my 2015 Durango Limited, but I have noticed over the last few months the oil temp is running about 30 degrees hotter than it used to. Used to run consistently from 180-195 degrees. Never went above 199, even in summer. Now I'm seeing regular temps in the 220-224 degree range. Water and trans temps are normal. 150k and no towing or hard driving... and it's not even very hot yet (I live in south Texas). Haven't changed anything... just regular oil changes as always. Was wondering if the increased temps could be related to some sort of failure with this oil cooler? Has anyone else noticed higher oil temps on their 3.6?
Hm. Better ask over on Facebook at PentastarV6Performance.
You getting the oil changed at a shop? Did they actually use the correct oil or what you asked for? That doesn’t sound like an oil cooler failure to me. Hot oil means there is more friction where you don’t want it. Water can only cool so much. I doubt it’s a sensor failure either.
@@Turbo_Snail No, I do all my own work/maintenance so I know it's done right. Saw a couple of things on a MOPAR page I'm going to check out. We'll see. Anyway, thanks for the reply. Blessings.
I hope it’s an easy fix! Good luck!
Its still going to leak. It doesn't matter if it is a plastic housing or a metal housing or if it's made here in the USA or China. It is still going to leak. I own a Pentacrap engine 3.2L and after thinking about it for a few years it is pretty obvious why. The oil filter housing has a flat surface that mounts to a flat surface on the top of the engine. The O-rings/ gaskets whatever are really kinda pointless. Cause the connection point is two flat surfaces when one should insert into the other.
Actually, so many people switched to this type and no-one has issues anymore. That being said, yeah, using plastic that gets that hot, is "cheap" design. That also goes for the crossover tube and thermostat housing. I see a video in the future here!!!
it's not a flat surface. The block has raised aluminum pieces that fit up inside the oil filter housing ports that compress the seals. I'm guessing you never replaced yours with the aluminum housing. it's still not a great way to seal high pressure liquids. you are counting on the torque of the bolts and the durability of those orings. i'd use loctite on those bolts so they don't possible come loose from vibration.
Did you drain any fluids before the repair coolant or oil etc…?
No I did not ahead of time. I did an oil change right after because it was time and I was worried about contamination from coolant to oil. If there was contamination it was a few drops.
@@Turbo_Snail thanks did it yesterday pretty easy thanks to your video… but oil spot on the concrete next morning after a test drive 🤦🏻♂️ followed everything to a “T”
Mane some leftover from when you changed it. Stick a camera down there in the crevice. Maybe a splat of nothing. Just watch it. Good luck!
Hi. So you didn’t drain coolant or oil before starting?
No I did not. I did an oil change after. Not much oil up there once the car got 30 minutes of rest. That’s why it has dry start issues. You can usually hear it when cold starting.
Thanks appreciate the reply. I’m gonna tackle this on weekend
just rewatch the video. I used a tube (a tool I usually use to pump oil out of the engine (you can see the video somewhere in my list)) to vacuum up on the oil that was there. If oil gets on the coolant it will just float around but definitely top it off and change oil afterwards. If you run the car then there will be oil up in the oil filter. It'll take 30 minutes to drain out. Good luck.
💪😍😔🙆♂️
:)
Vehicle information, Jeep? Size engine? 3.6??
Mine? It’s a 2016 Chrysler 200c. But this engine can be found in literally every model that Chrysler sells right now.
All Pentastar V6s are 3.6 liter.
Im surprised you didnt just buy the whole unit assembly as they usually come whole rather than transfering the top cooler box to the other maybe creating other leak points..
Dorman doesn’t sell the whole unit. Only the way you see it there. There are other cheaper knock offs but it’s been proven over the last year that the cheap coolers break even quicker than the plastic one one.
What are those sensors called?
Which one? The oil pressure and oil temp sensors?
@@Turbo_Snail both lol thanks for answering I gotta do my oil cooler too & thought I should just replace them since I’m there already
Get the doorman one. You’ll do the job just once. I rechecked mine and no leaks.
Good luck!
Ok. Cool. So far I see no oil puddles or residue in the valley of the top end.🤞
Perfect. You’re good.
I replaced MINE PREEMPTIVELY on my 2017 Pacifica because I don't EVER want to see leaking oil or coolant and the eight hundred bucks I paid is cheap insurance vs eight THOUSAND for a new engine.
Yes, DORMAN ALUMINUM....Chrysler should NEVER have chosen plastic for this piece.
A plastic intake? Yeah okay no biggie but oil and coolant heat exchanger??? Always use metal.
Chrysler's refusal to admit this cripples a wonderful engine because of a cheap plastic part is outrageous.
But apparently a lot of manufacturers are being just as stupid, not just Chrysler.
Now imagine having a plastic oil pan like BMW.
مرحبا صديقي ممكن اعرف سبب تنقيص دبه الماء ارجو الرد دوج جارجر 2016 💪😔
You should not have issues with coolant leaking from there. Only oil leak. If you have a coolant leak, it’s a different problem. Check the plastic housing where the thermostat is. That is a common problem. Good luck!👍
شكرا صديقي سوف اتاكد من هاذا 🫡🙆♂️😘
Mine failed at 47k
Darned. I think you hold the record on that. But then again, who knows how long mines been leaking.
I had a different solution: I ditched my Jeep Cherokee and went back to Subaru. Problems solved! And piss on Jeep!
Jeep has gotten greedy lately. Apparently they bankrupted in china, can’t sell any cars any where else either. Seems they thought they were a premium brand with premium prices. Come to find out they forgot their place and got cocky. Now they are stuck with thousands of cars that are aging on dealers lots. Get ready to pick up a Jeep for cheap and use it for its intended purpose and not grocery store parking lots.
1 yr update?
Works excellent. Just did an oil change and checked. Bone dry down there. Super happy. That being said, my work Promaster 1500 had an oil cooler failure at just 53k miles. They were going to charge me until I mentioned that power train warranty is 60k miles. They are doing it this weekend for free. :)
At 7:09 , what is that drop that you put on the 4 screws?
@torresx06 ah. That is thread locker. Very important so it doesn’t loosen over time. The blue one is the one to use. It’s removable. There is also red which can not be removed later on. Links should be all in the description.
nevemind i found it 106 inch pounds
Good luck.
where did you find the torque specs for the aluminum replacement?
@@codyleague3976 comes with the part. A pamphlet should have been included.
Its made in America
all of those metal tubes coming up from the engine should actually fit up inside of the oil filter housing. Then the gaskets would actually do something. But the way the engine is designed the oil filter housing just rests on the surface of those metal tubes instead of actually locking together. Such a stupid design, it's obvious that whoever designed the oil filter housing dropped the ball and designed pure garbage. Using some JB Weld would solve any future leaking issues...
Most of the engine is put together with "flat surfaces". The pentastar is not doing anything that other engines don't do In the end, any engine well taken care of, will last longer than an engine abused.
by the way ... my theory is that the plastic warps due to the extreme heat in that area created by the engine beauty cover, I live in South Texas Valley, is VERY HOT here most of the year, I own 2 2015 200C AWD (yes, I know I don't need AWD in South Texas, but they drive amazingly much better than the non AWD) one of them has 69K miles the second one has 65K, I have replaced the oil coolers on both TWICE!! but since I removed the beauty cover and throw both to the attic, I have not seen any more issues... well I will let you know if I ever have an oil cooler leaking, but my suggestion to everyone living in very HOT climate, remove the Cover so that heat can dissipate....
I like that. Especially from someone who’s done it twice now. I thought, in my simple mind, that I’ll get it done in 2 hours. Took me 6 (in my defense, I was filming as well) but I hope I never have to do it again. I guess I’ll chuck my “beauty cover”. I think the RWD drive cars get also better cooling in that area.
P.S.: if I had to buy one again, it would have to get the AWD. I get no traction. I’m jealous.
Actually the Doman cooler is MADE IN CHINA....and the warranty DOES NOT cover labor and thats the issue. Just went through the return labor process. These are a lot of work to get to and the reason this engine sucks!
Actually it is made in the USA. I never seen anyone guarantee the labor when you do the work yourself. If you are looking for a complete warranty I would recommend going to the dealer. They warranty the part and the work that goes into replacing it.