Trev's Home Brew Rust removal potion solution remedy Tips and Tricks #23
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 28 มิ.ย. 2024
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MUSIC
I try and use 50’s/early 60’s recordings taken from acetates with no identifying artist or song names this way I am doing my best to stay within copyright restrictions and giving some real cool recordings a chance to be aired, albeit not knowing who the artist actually is. I have unfortunately used music after seeking permission from an artist and this music has now been released causing me issues, this means that from time to time some of my videos will have to be edited and reloaded. This seems crazy to me as I’m actually generating a fan base for artists to only then be penalised for promoting them. If you are a music artist producing surf or rock and roll music and would like me to use your music then please contact me as I can give you free air time in front of a guaranteed audience. - ยานยนต์และพาหนะ
![LISA - ROCKSTAR (Official Music Video) REACTION [SHE'S BACK!]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/QBxE30vavMQ/mqdefault.jpg)
Thanks for this gem - all I need now is a bucket big enough to fit the car in :-) .
Are you sure that there would be a car left if you did that?
@@markwatson9816 I could always call it the SL :-).
It gives me ideas for the kids pool.
Brilliant, as always. So informative and easy to follow, a proper TH-cam gent
Finally, someone doing a rust removal vid with ACTUAL rust rather than really superficial rust. Those hinges look like mine! Thanks (again!) Trev.
Thanks trev for taking the time to share your knowledge. Regularly helped me restore my 69 Chevy C10
Thanks again Trev , another great informative video " keep em coming " mate 👍👍👍👍
Thank for the info Trev. It's a really good video. And the music literally rocks!!!😁
Definitely my favourite bodyshop channel
Sweet work dude 👍
Keep it coming
Wow!!!!! I love your attention to detail. It is so cool to see the progress on this van! We don’t have that make in the US, so it’s so cool to see.
wife was in the kitchen thinking, trev's finally jetwashing the patio, how little did she know XD
Brilliant guide Trev, perfectly explained. Thank you.
I'm a woodworker myself but I must say, You have some extremely Mad Metal working skills! Just beautiful!
Your metal skills, you truly are an artist
Great video thanks. I do a last stage before painting - treat with phosphoric acid, Kurust for little bits. Love to see the CA van. My Dad had a 1960 CAL Kenex Yeoman, 3213 K. Mid-60s I got the job of panel beating & painting the o/s front wing when a malicious lamp post attacked it. Managed a total no-filler repair & brush painted the deep red & cream to match with Tekaloid.
Keep up the great work, your tremendous efforts are appreciated!
Thanks Trev - I think I'll give it a whirl. I have 6 cast iron heat registers from 1910 to clean. No rush, so this'll work! Love your channel - never a better metal doctor have I seen. Keep up the great content. Chuck in NE Kansas, USA
Brilliant! I`m not too worried about embrittlement ,all I need is a bucket big enough to get my van in!
If a new Trev Blog video comes out right before bedtime, looks like I'm gonna lose some sleep. #Worthit
Love the tip about covering paint stripper to keep it active longer. Never heard that one 👍 love it as usual.
Good morning Trev, more good information. I will certainly give this process a try. Always more information and education that is useful. Take care.
Great video trev👍keep them coming..
Nice work. I aim to be as good as you when it comes to body work one day. True skills sir.
That was absolutely amazing..and with food grade materials. Thank you so much for this new technique. And here's to ya..Cheers.🍻
Again a very informative video Trev. Yours is about the first channel to mention the use of thin "plastic" sheets when applying paint stripper whereas (if that's the right word) it makes a tremendous difference. ATB Marc - Belgium
Brilliant as always Trev. ...How can anyone in their right mind give this a thumbs down!!
Claire Pendrous usually green eyed reasons I guess👍😘
Trev's Blog probably the sooks that whine about not wearing gloves!
That's a cheap and easy way to remove rust i love it thanks for the awesome tip
You're a real sheet metal artist👍🏻
If you're not in a hurry for the part, you can use the old school Molasses/water bath at a ratio of 7 parts water to one part molasses. We put entire body parts in a molasses bath and the good thing is that it removes rust ONLY (acid just keeps eating). The downside is that it smells pretty funky in the summer so you'll want to keep it away from the house and put a lid on it to minimize evaporation and to contain the smell.
Good night from Alaska. Really enjoy your channel.👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻
great video trev, they came out perfect!
Another brilliant tutorial. Definitely washers on!
Thanks great tip - I’ll be trying this on a bike tank this weekend
Thanks to this video I refreshed the front of my Morris 1000 Traveler this summer. Once everything was stripped to bare metal and de-rusted as much as practicable with a knotted wire brush I used a 1-2% solution in a wheelie bin. Twice a day I removed the parts, washed and wire brushed the rusty areas, washed again and then back in the bin. Took a few days but all the rust was removed. A final rinse and then dry quickly with a heat gun before than removing the light grey oxidation that formed, wipe down with degreaser and finally prime with epoxy primer. It worked a treat. I then did the same with 4 steel wheels. All painted and car back together. I'm about to do the same with the back end and the kick plates etc. but I'm expecting it to take much longer in winter!
You seem to very detailed, I like that, Great job
You are very crazy!!! I love you work!!! Thanks for the video!
Trev! Bravo on the re-do of this vid- great info! You give a great tip about the paint stripper at 2:45 or so... Might want to consider if you dont want to use so much stripper giving the piece a brisk stainless steel wire brushing first... gets the surface oxides and generally the dirt and crud off so the strip can work directly ON the paint- and you dont use quite so much of the chemicals to boot! Love the channel and gotta say well done indeed!
Another great video. Trev, keep it up!
I do love that most of you're videos are low cost, but high skill. Meaning, many videos just go ooo let me go over to my €$1000+ piece of equipment and do this. That piece of equipment is probably out of the cost range of many watchers (like myself).
Nate Hankins Thanks you get it 🤩 hallelujah 🤩most people trying to make a point are always saying ahh yeah but there’s a better way..... of course there’s a better way, there always is but you can’t get much more simple than a bucket and some elbow grease. We’ve got two 700 cfm compressors and a dedicated blasting booth at work but what would be the point in showing that off. Cheers much appreciated Trev 👍
That plating was zinc and colour passivate 👍
Those parts came up lovely! Good old citric acid!
Great tips , those hinges are looking wicked .
I would use washers, I can't bear the thought of that gorgeous paint cracking off under the bolt heads.
Paint the washers!
Great video Trev! Thanks!
Thank you. A great alternative. I normally used water vinegar with salt, and let them seat for 1 or 2 days, depending on the amount of rust; then rinse them with water, and soak them for a few minutes in water with baking soda mix; and give them a final rinse with water. Please keep on doing videos where you "teach" how to do things.
wish i'd known about the ol citric acid trick a few years ago, but hey-ho. Thanks Trev
Well done and I love the exit music.
Yet another top video, thank you!
I think the temperature will determine the speed of the process whereas the amount of acidic acid should be proportionate to the amount of rust to be removed. And the amount of water should just be enough to keep every bit in contact with the solution.
Fantastic video serious Trev. Thank you
Great video as always. Thanks
What an easy way to remove rust. Great!👍👍
Happy to see you back after the primer sanding T&T #22. In the T&T playlist, the twenties are not there. Could find them by scrolling the videos list.
It’s really a very good « blog » Trev’! Thanks for your work to share with us your skills and experiences. Cheers from France.
That’s brilliant just buying a Saab 96 that needs work, will be my first restoration gulp! Where to start!!
Great video thanks Trev. I have used bolts that have the washer buillt into the head it does the same job but the washer bit is generally smaller overall outside diameter
You are a master Trev.
Most valuable information . Many thanks.
I'm a 'first time viewer' to your blog but now subscribed. Now i'm off to get some citric acid.
Love your channel .
Thank you. Very good demo.
Trev love your blog
Is Trev coming from the UK?
I'm here in Canada working on a 1993 Plymouth Acclaim. Bought it used low Kim's. Previous owner never washed the road salt off from Winter.
The factory painted all the rims and suspension parts with that thin electrostatic black paint. Well the salt ate through it and rusted everything. So I disassembled the front and rear ends. Washed the oil, dirt and grease if any. Used paint stripper, scraped, wire brushed and rotary wire brushed with a electric Die grinder. Then filled a plastic tub to submerge the wheel rims and soaked them for two days in a 50/50 mix of Muriatic Acid and water. Removed all the rust deep into the pits. After used Ajax and liquid soap to wash and clean the metal, flushed down with water. Then used a milder acid called metal prep to prevent flash rusting, washed off with water again then sun dried and ready to Prime with metal Primer. Two to three coats of Primer, lightly sand and top coat.
Don't waste your time removing heavy rust with other vinegars, mild rust removers etc. you will there to Christmas. Use Muriatic cleans fast and is Violent. Cleans heavy rust fast. Sandblasting can be use after. Sandblasting can not get down in the pores.
Also did electrolysis using a battery charger. Ok to a degree. But Acid gets it cleaner faster.
Thanks for sharing your secret recipe. Cheers! : )
I stumbled upon this video and now you have a new subscriber. Thank you. Great video.
Great video trev
Man that is sweet looking! Thanks for us 2%ers
Plating on those parts either zinc or cadmium which has been passivated after plating. If worried about hydrogen enbrittlement suggest place parts in hot oven for 30 minutes after your stripping process. Heating will drive off hydrogen. Information comes from Aviation MilSpecs for Electroplaters. Rather important for the springs you mention.
Gonna' mention that myself - you beat me to it.
For general purposes on steel, about 450° F.
Also useful for critical parts that have been arc welded (esp. w/o low-hydrogen filler) as well as plated stuff
How can you go wrong, even when you make mistakes it still looks great :)
hi trev , would just like to say outstanding video really got my attention. Taken it all on board about the mixture and weights and made notes. Thanks again for an outstanding service Bob20/20
Have used distilled vinegar on small tool parts and it worked very well
hydrogen embrittlement can be reversed by backing the steel in the oven to get the hydrogen out.
How hot and for how long?
@@bjrgjohannessen5184 4h at 400F
Jan Van Ruth, you beat me to it... Yup, bake your steel parts if they've been acid etched - or plated, and they're in a highly stressed application
I have the same or similar result with molasses
Time soaking depends on the temperature of the solution .
I can get great results like you did in summer
But in winter a lot slower for sure
Great video Trev. I learned a lot and will give the "Secret Solution" a try. I have been looking for a good alternative to both sand and soda blasting as I think that removes too much " good " metal. An Australian panel beater friend suggested he has good results with agricultural grade molasses. I haven't tried it yet but he uses it to derust some quite large parts. Thanks again for sharing your extensive knowledge.
If you can wait for a few days try Molasses (5l costs about £7) diluted 1:10 with water so 50l for £7 slower than citric acid but more gentle.
Thanks for video will try Citric acid for smaller parts.
Excellent content. I'll be using that process for sure. How a about some round head stainless bolts for the doors.
I kind of like the bead blaster method with very fine blasting media that cleans off rust and paint and cleans the parts leaving them smooth and not pitted. 😁👍
Great tips. Thank you!
Trev that was fantastic thanks
Hi Trev, Sand and polish the heads of the stainless bolts to get rid of the numbers, makes for a super clean look. Also I vote on smaller washers!
What a great idea about paint stripper. I've been trying to strip the paint off the Lada Riva (10 tons of Russian pride) bonnet for weeks, ended up more like a polish. Shined it up a treat, I'm going to try that tip tomorrow and cover it with paint stripper and cling film. "Oh those Russians" ( Boney M, Rasputin)
personally I am using a high pressure sanding. It requires strong air supply, but cleans rust effective. After I put over Loctite 7505.
2 days ago I was using your dent flipping technology and was happy with the final result on Ford Fiesta doors. Good luck !
Nice process. Try adding a fish tank aerator/bubbler as well. This really helps circulation of the mix around the parts.
Nothing like some agitation to really advance things
A cheap slow cooker works well and no need for the fish tank heater 👍🏻
Another brilliant trick thanks 👍🏻😎
Wow, I would never have believed that those hinges could not only be salvaged but that they would come up so well! Top, tip! Well done!
As for washers, I think you should put them on. We probably lost our industrial might to the Japanese because we insisted on using washers on bolts instead of investing in better fixings like they did. However, any man who insists on knocking up rubber gaskets for the hinge to door meeting probably won’t be able to sleep at night if he didn’t put the washers on the bolts. Think of the better spread of force! That’s proper British engineering, that is: You can’t see it and you can’t tell it’s there but you’ll know...
And one day, when a man in a brown work coat with four pens in the top pocket eyes your work, he will nod approvingly, rather than suck his breath through his teeth and tut. And then you’ll be glad you did...
If you don't get your ca finished I'm switching to tea ,good vid as usual
Ruble sack 😅 I love this I always learn new phrases and words 👍
Handy little tip cheers!!
Well done Trev great video. Perth wa
Awesome idea!
Great stuff - I have lots of citric acid - approx 123kg ---- let me get started!!! Subscribed and liked
Definitely use washers, the paint will be ruined under those bolts, and use stainless bolts and washers.
More importantly, when are you going to show us how you get your hair so perfect??
Love the videos keep up the good work, are you going to Beaulieu for the custom show this year? Be nice to buy you a beer and have a chat, or any other beverage that takes your fancy.
Cool music too.
That citric acid de rusting came up tops 👍. Had you thought of using dome head Allen bolts in stainless for securing the hinges on .. I used stainless countersunk Allen bolts for my Escort van hinges instead of Phillips screws , looks way better 😎
thanks for the Aquarium heater idea ! kool
The gear stick gator looked like it was cadmium plated. Dig the vids!
There's a lot of things you can use that citric acid for, and the "food-grade" rating keeps the options open. If you're in a hard water area, it works for kettle de-scaling, and costs a lot less. But I'd keep the kitchen supply separate from the workshop supply, maybe re-use a jam jar, and label it.
You mentioned alternatives such as white vinegar, and I can confirm that works, helped clean the bottom of a saucepan and it was within easy reach in the kitchen.
Thank you. Love you guy.
Great video Trev. Great results its shifted the rust no problem, i will have to try it. I need a big bucket to clean all the rusty bits i got lol. Great paint job on those hinges, nice mirror shine !
Cheers, Jeff.
cabdriveruk Thanks Jeff 👍
Good morning from AUSTRALIA Trev.
I have used Ospho and it works great.Been using it for 30 years.I will always use it,but I might give this a shot too.
Thanks for that, it certainly beats the phosphoric/hydrofluoric mix that I use. I don't mind it taking a while - the bucket seems to be doing all the work.
Hydrofluoric is an evil evil acid.
Looks like the de' rusted surface would be good for powder coating. Much appreciated.
Hi Trev.
Love your channel, loads of really good info, particularly all the panel beating stuff.
For rust removal, though, I can't recommend anything more than electrolysis. It's dead simple, all you need is some sugar soap, water, some scrap steel and a DC power supply. There's no need to worry about leaving your parts in too long, no need to neutralise the parts after treatment, and no need even to strip paint or to degrease - it'll pretty much all come off during the process, especially if you drive the process with a DC welder as opposed to a battery charger. The reason I prefer electrolysis over anything else is that it doesn't remove any good metal, and converts the rust from the dreaded red death, Fe2O3, to stable, non-cancerous, Fe3O4 (magnetite). I use it for rust removal on machine tools, lathes and the like, where precision is important, and abrasives are pretty much a no-no.
As for the whole hydrogen embrittlement thing, I used to worry about it, but decided to do a test. Took a bunch of identical springs, rusted most of them by dipping in and out of salt water. Kept a couple of rusted and a couple of clean springs as controls, chucked the rest in the electrolysis bath, DC welder at 20A for an hour or so. Pulled half out, dried and oiled them, then hooked up the battery charger and left the rest electrolysing for 2 days. I then pulled them to destruction using work's little load cell and a hand winch. Result - no discernible difference. Less than .5N spread between all the springs, they all went to plastic deformation at about 30N. No premature snapping. None of which is to say that hydrogen embrittlement is not a real thing, but I couldn't see the effects.
the embrittlement comes from the acid surely?
Vans looking beut Trev, I’m restoring a car that was 14 years outside and I’ve used Electrolosis for doors (no prep required and cuts through grease) Envirorust for S and Giggles on nuts and bolts, My favourite finisher now is Phosphoric acid, I prep with Vinegar a bit but like sandblasting it has its disadvantages in that the clean up is a lot of labour. All hinges, brackets etc I used Mollasses, very slow process, parts needed prepping similar to the much nicer looking process of Citric acid, I’ve bought new old stock parts prepped in Citric acid and was told that’s the correct way to do it so nice to see the process thx
Great and helpful video
Nice, wish I could just dip my entire car like that without any problems :) This is the first time I've seen this exact technique, very interesting. This seems like a very effective way to get rust free part, so I'll give this a go. I've seen in some similar things where they use fluids to interact with parts, that moving the parts about horisontoly when submerged can remove some air bubles that get trapped. Don't think hydrogen imbrittlement will do much under 200 celsius, but I could be wrong.
I know someone else suggested it, but a small media blasting cabinet would have been perfect for those hinges. Probably not so good for those thinner metal parts, depending on the media used. I like to use POR-15 metal prep on a lot of things because it leaves a phosphoric coating afterwards to protect the metal. It almost looks like you used a single stage paint for the hinges? Your panel gaps look PERFECT. Love seeing the progress on the van and appreciate your tips and tricks massively!