This is the kind of channel I like TH-cam for. There is a lots of ridiculous nonsense to be found on YT but then you find a channel like this. The Teaching, the knowledge offered and shown here Trev is simply irreplaceable pure gold, Fantastic channel.👍
We are repairing a Volkswagen T2 and my boss asked me to translate Your experience to our language(Hungarian). Thanks for Your efforts and help. Bless on Ya.
Now retired I've spent over 50 years in the automotive trade working with many luxury vehicles including RR & Bentley when it was British & I can't fault any of your work ethics or paractices Trev well done keep up the good work.👍
Brilliant, your a natural communicator. It’s like you’ve been doing it all your life. I was taught by an ex rolls Royce worker who started his own business. We used a bar of soap for lubricant and everything was sprayed in cellulose.
I started painting in 86 and we used to use mostly cellulose, the first 2K products were apparently deadly toxic, far more than they are today. The finish looked quite plastic from memory. Cheers Trev 👍
Thanks for sharing your experience, tips and advice. Nice work. I am envy your auto body skills and your hair. Glad to hear you always wear a mask. We need you to continue making videos to help the DIY community in particular. I imagine most professionals are forced to take some short cuts since time is money and they have a business to run.
Another great blog , you provide a great contrast to ‘ My friend Pete’ on America’s DIY auto school, both do show winning work with vastly different styles. Cheers from Australia
Proper job as usual Trev. I've been out of the motor trade since 1992, and I can see things have changed! I was mostly using celly, but the high build primers were starting to be very good. Up to the primer stage, I would DA with 320, then it was all wet flatting like you say, after the primer was on and well dried. It's amazing that a lot of us old timers are still around, when I think of all the dust and fumes we consumed.
really enjoy the videos Trev. i'm from Norfolk so accents very similar. just got into car maintenance and restoration so binge watching paint n body videos, doing some myself coming across problems back to watching more videos. started stripping my '99 ford puma for respray found some major rust so brought a welder, watched welding videos fixed the issues. almost ready to start polyester priming. i'd epoxy primed the car after i found the rust so i could fix the issues over a course of time without worrying about further rust forming. your videos have helped me out big time, you've a great attention to detail and i've tried to emulate that in my work so i can do the best i can do. thankyou for what you do.
Nice to see someone using a slightly courser paper to level primer , I was taught this way, a good analogy is that you wouldn't expect to get a block of steel flat using 800 wet and dry, you'd use a file. I also liked wet flatting, I was trained at an old fashioned Audi/VW dealer and loved the job, once bodyshops started paying bonus for hours saved and the subsequent drop in standards I left the trade altogether.
You explained it in a way I finally understand. Everyone keeps getting so frustrated with me because I cant understand how to do it right but really they didnt explain well. Thank you
Trev thanks for all your videos. I'm doing a car restoration at the moment. If I'm stuck I just watch the appropriate video from you, and it usually fixes my problem. You're great teacher. All up infinite thumbs up. Cheers I'll have a few beers on you.
You do make me smile Trev. Im long off the the tools but recently jumped back in with a resto now I have more free time. Im totally with you on wet flatting . My golden rule was always NO WATER till epoxy primer was laid down. Once you seal that filler with epoxy you're home and dry or wet as the case may be haha. The abrasives and paints may have moved on but good house keeping remains the same. Cleanliness is next to godliness which will always show in your finish. Keep doing your awesome videos, its like Ive never been away .
No idea how many times i've watched this but your videos have been my main inspiration for restoring my mk2 escort. Im super close to starting high build stage. Cheers
Another great video. I love how you are so clear and concise when you explain various concepts or procedures. Other channels may demonstrate how to do it but you demonstrate and explain why. Thanks for all of your effort to share your craft and trade with the world. Greetings from California.
Your advice is great mate.. too many experts with no skill these days they are the ones that don't take into account every job is different and requires different steps etc.. Proof is in the pudding as we say.. great work. Thanks Trev
Good morning Trev, more good stuff. Thanks for sharing your expertise, I always learn new tips, tricks, and techniques from your videos. Can't wait for the next one. Have a great weekend, take care.
I've found that block sanding with primer over the filler is so much better than trying to get bare filler smooth. Repeat the process several times and it gives amazing results with a 100 grit, then 120 grit dry sand. From there I'll follow your method. Cheers Trev.
So right you are about the holes. I'm working on a 1968 Bertram boat that has to be spot on when I'm done. There aren't a lot of videos on high build primer especially when it comes to marine applications. Great video though and you did help me quite a bit.
Yea man got hate the haters. Im oldschool myself and TH-cam is good for seeing things done different ways. To get the job at hand done. I adapt all good ways n make my own. Like they say should learn something ever day. Its the way of life it all trades. Love the vid Trev love ya styles 👊👌
Truly enjoy your videos. Saw some of the later vids, then watched some of the first vids. You have really come into your own, with loosening up and going with it. Keep up the great work.
Excellent video Trev, Until the dry sanding phase caught on, I always wet sanded all the primer and color coats. I started back in the days of non catalyzed lacquer primer/surfacer. Stopped at 800-900 grit. Color sanded with 1000-1200 grit. Over here in the USA wet sanding is coming back for BC/CC jobs both waterborne and solvent. In fact at the community college collision program were I teach we added two wet sanding units that trickle water through the palm type DA from a filtered source. I still like the sponge and block method. I squeegee with a 3M spot putty rubber applicator and wipe with a lint free cloth. I also have never had a finish failure from wet sanding primer and have been happily using water as a sanding lubricant since 1974. Thanks again for the great tutorial.
Anthony Visnesky Thanks I’m glad you’ve said this, it does make sense to say don’t wet sand as primer is absorbent but to what degree are we talking about? I’ve never witnessed this water absorption from wet sanding and I’ve worked in some big shops 10 painters 2-3 jobs each a day all wet flatting for years and years never a come back due to water absorption ever. Cheers Trev 👍
Hello, Trev from Atlanta, GA USA First time watching one of your videos. Very much like your style of video. I also prefer to wet sand primer, and like you don't believe it causes any problems. Look forward to watching more of your videos. Excellent video!
Spot on with the technique Trev. Almost 100% what I would do. I discovered the benefits of dry blocking primer back in the late 80`s when all we did was use a small rubber block with 600. I had to knock out some pretty tough jobs back then just to survive and I quickly found that knocking down filler with the DA then knocking down high build with a large block and 180 would get things straight and ripple free. If it was a trade job or damaged repairable I would finish with 500 on the DA. Higher spec work would get a wet block with 800- 1200 depending on the top coat. Fact is dry blocking with the largest practicle size block gets things straight. Ideally if you can get away without wet flatting then that is best as you have less chance of introducing contaminants to the primer which could effect the final finish.
Anyone who criticizes your work is an idiot, plain and simple. You do absolutely top work. And I have been around bodyshops and restorers my whole life ... not to mention having done a number of restorations myself. Top work.
Nice 1 Trev, Could you show us the full painting process please good Sir. Things like which bits to paint first, how to paint the tricky bits and how you blend two panels, ie the roof to a lower panel. Again thank you for passing on your skills and knowledge.
Best tip for anyone is always. Take your time, do not try to rush things and the results pay off. I always find if its your daily, its cheaper to buy a beater to run while you perfect your project than to do it twice ;)
I've been watching a few of your videos and I'm impressed by your work. I like your video style where you present things slow enough so a person can really see what's your approach to solving problems. Keep up the great work.
Very timely Trev, I’ve removed all the rust on my 73 GM Statesman using a 1000l Electrolosis bath, and am at the Epoxy primer stage. I would love to patch as I go but it all happened so quickly I just need to coat it, I don’t want to put polyester on steel , I’ll just give it a scuff I think. I first arrived on your channel looking for guidance and it’s anticipated entertainment now, same as Pete C at Cortina City, I forget there is plenty to go back and watch, I’ll trust your experience thanks and block primer just like that ;)
There you go. Everything you need to know to make a nice prepwork. Love it. I´m in the proces to build a nother hotrod, one with a roof this time. Always wanted a mod A-Ford Tudor so thats what i´m going for.
I agree on the wet sand, water absorption is not an issue, its not wet long enough to be an issue. If you are concerned, give it 20 mins in the booth on 40 ;)
Wonderful information and explanation that gives me better understanding of why this is done this way. I would suggest a brandy wine with a silver metal-flake in it or a medium brown with gold metal-flake for the lower paint.
Hi trev Well done as usual. You can put epoxy primer on first and the apply body filler on top. I have seen where it can rust under the filler after a few years if applied direct to bare metal. But everyone to there own way.
Thanks for taking time,and giving us procedures and techniques on doing things.Now a days I even use circular motions on my body filler and it works great.
Cheap thinner-gun wash-spirit wipe type things can be made from recycled chemicals I believe and that can lead to fish eyes as the solvent may have previously been used where silicone was present, top painter the gun man says the same thing. Well we pay our money and make our choice. And again A Great Video Trev.
Yes you certainly can prime a car as many times as you like. It’s all about time and effort and what kind of a result you’re after. In accident repair shops it’s common to leave spots that have been sanded through. The car is masked to top coat and a light coat of aerosol etch primer is sprayed on just to cover the spot and painted straight on top. It’s also common In high end restoration shops to prime everything twice, this really ensures a perfect surface to lay that paint on. Cheers Trev 👍
Hi Trev, how do you go about treating things like the groove in the body work at 21:24 please? particularly the small angle sides and the deeper corners? Great vid, thanks, I'm now a subscriber :)
Another helpful vid Trev, top man. My personal preference after primering & before final paint on my car has been too shoot 2 coats of solid gloss of a similar or same coat as the final colour. This helps me check the final reflections/imperfections, once I'm happy with that, I can finish it with complete confidence, I know this is not a commercially viable option, but this extra stage reduces any possible dissapointments, the paint finish it what everybody look at as you know. Great work Trev, appreciate you setting high standards on TH-cam
im reading this because Ive paid nearly 7k for a paint job and some rust work and im now left with having to sand it back and start over again as there were da swirl marks everywhere and panel consistency were various with some various orange peel, other panels very flat(still showing swirls marks) then panels so flat that you could see primer showing! body repair work is already rusting and panels miss aligned so my front grill has to be bent to fit. Ughhh painter cut wires to remove hatch and he put doors back on either stripping/cross threading screws or not even replacing the screws or panel hardware....very frustrating but very thankful for youtube and your channel for knowledge...
Unfortunately I hear this all of the time. 7K is a great deal of money for you to part with but isn’t a great deal of money when you’re operating a paint shop. A paint shop with crap staff or worse a crap boss that pushes the staff to bodge everything as fast as possible to get the money back in before the business goes bust. It’s a sad situation.
@@trevsblog yeah its unfortunate i gave my van to a guy in his own personal garage to do the work because he convinced me he was an aficionado and wanted to keep these van on the road using his twenty years of restoration experience. He is the admin of one the FB pages here in oz and when i raised my concerns after viewing the end project in sun i was blocked from the page and eventually removed all together.....uhhg Ive learned some hard lessons through this endeavour. The one over arching rule i've learned is, years of experience does not equate to quality. They say you can have two things and not the other (quality, done quickly, Cheap) unfortunately it wasn't done quickly and 7k wasn't that cheap. anyhoo off to buy a selection of soft flatboards and sandpaper. Thank you for hearing me and for your videos they will help me quite alot!
Thanks Trev, restoring an old BMW and after your video, will get DA320, DA500, then 800 wet and 1000 wet for a silver metallic base and clear. Have you had adhesion issues flatting with 1000 wet? People say in two years paint could peel off on the motorway 🥺. Top stuff Trev, you have a new subscriber!
What should I do if I rub through the high fill to bare metal? Should I do a light wet coat before my base coat of colour? Love the video and your honesty!! Great content
Depends how fussy you want to be. Busy bodyshops will normally just spray a light coat of 1k etch primer from an aerosol can over the area, job done…and in most cases it does the trick. Being more thorough you may want to mask the area and prime it again. Cheers Trev 👍
This is the kind of channel I like TH-cam for. There is a lots of ridiculous nonsense to be found on YT but then you find a channel like this. The Teaching, the knowledge offered and shown here Trev is simply irreplaceable pure gold, Fantastic channel.👍
Hey thanks man, appreciated 👍
I have been doing that job for 40 years but learnt alot on making panels brilliant Trev
I've learned more about sanding a vehicle from you than from a bodyman father and a superb painter brother-ln-law. Thanks from Missouri, USA
I am truly glad that you decided to do "teaching" videos of your work. Thank you.
We are repairing a Volkswagen T2 and my boss asked me to translate Your experience to our language(Hungarian).
Thanks for Your efforts and help.
Bless on Ya.
Now retired I've spent over 50 years in the automotive trade working with many luxury vehicles including RR & Bentley when it was British & I can't fault any of your work ethics or paractices Trev well done keep up the good work.👍
Brilliant, your a natural communicator. It’s like you’ve been doing it all your life. I was taught by an ex rolls Royce worker who started his own business. We used a bar of soap for lubricant and everything was sprayed in cellulose.
I started painting in 86 and we used to use mostly cellulose, the first 2K products were apparently deadly toxic, far more than they are today. The finish looked quite plastic from memory. Cheers Trev 👍
I really appreciate your work! I've been doing auto body restoring and painting for a long time, I always learn something from your videos.
Thanks very much for taking the time to make this. Exactly what I was looking for. Very informative, top workmanship 👍🏾
Thanks for sharing your experience, tips and advice. Nice work. I am envy your auto body skills and your hair. Glad to hear you always wear a mask. We need you to continue making videos to help the DIY community in particular. I imagine most professionals are forced to take some short cuts since time is money and they have a business to run.
A man after my own heart. Wet sanding with P800 WOD. and a variety of long blocks.
"...whole lotta sandin' goin' on.
Trev ain't fakin'.
Whole lotta sandin' goin on."
Great info, excellent personal process. Best to you and yours.
Another great blog , you provide a great contrast to ‘ My friend Pete’ on America’s DIY auto school, both do show winning work with vastly different styles. Cheers from Australia
Proper job as usual Trev. I've been out of the motor trade since 1992, and I can see things have changed! I was mostly using celly, but the high build primers were starting to be very good. Up to the primer stage, I would DA with 320, then it was all wet flatting like you say, after the primer was on and well dried. It's amazing that a lot of us old timers are still around, when I think of all the dust and fumes we consumed.
Trev, you're not making holes in TH-cam you're filling them in. Always great. Thank you Trev.
really enjoy the videos Trev. i'm from Norfolk so accents very similar. just got into car maintenance and restoration so binge watching paint n body videos, doing some myself coming across problems back to watching more videos. started stripping my '99 ford puma for respray found some major rust so brought a welder, watched welding videos fixed the issues. almost ready to start polyester priming. i'd epoxy primed the car after i found the rust so i could fix the issues over a course of time without worrying about further rust forming. your videos have helped me out big time, you've a great attention to detail and i've tried to emulate that in my work so i can do the best i can do.
thankyou for what you do.
Nice to see someone using a slightly courser paper to level primer , I was taught this way, a good analogy is that you wouldn't expect to get a block of steel flat using 800 wet and dry, you'd use a file. I also liked wet flatting, I was trained at an old fashioned Audi/VW dealer and loved the job, once bodyshops started paying bonus for hours saved and the subsequent drop in standards I left the trade altogether.
Hey thanks. It was a lot of work leaving the trade, but now I have 100%. I have no plans to return, ever. All the very best Trev 👍
I will probably never ever do anything like this but I do love to what you do and how you do it. Excellent work!
You explained it in a way I finally understand. Everyone keeps getting so frustrated with me because I cant understand how to do it right but really they didnt explain well. Thank you
Trev thanks for all your videos. I'm doing a car restoration at the moment.
If I'm stuck I just watch the appropriate video from you, and it usually fixes my problem. You're great teacher. All up infinite thumbs up. Cheers I'll have a few beers on you.
You do make me smile Trev. Im long off the the tools but recently jumped back in with a resto now I have more free time. Im totally with you on wet flatting . My golden rule was always NO WATER till epoxy primer was laid down. Once you seal that filler with epoxy you're home and dry or wet as the case may be haha.
The abrasives and paints may have moved on but good house keeping remains the same. Cleanliness is next to godliness which will always show in your finish.
Keep doing your awesome videos, its like Ive never been away .
No idea how many times i've watched this but your videos have been my main inspiration for restoring my mk2 escort. Im super close to starting high build stage.
Cheers
Thanks Trev. Really like your blog, keep up the good work. Hello from Alaska.
Another great video. I love how you are so clear and concise when you explain various concepts or procedures. Other channels may demonstrate how to do it but you demonstrate and explain why. Thanks for all of your effort to share your craft and trade with the world.
Greetings from California.
Very good tips and tricks Trev. You do very good work. As to say,you have the gift. Thank you for your time in showing us your methods. Ronnie.
A fantastic detailed how-to and an much anticipated update on the van project. Thanks, Trev. Cheers!
Your advice is great mate.. too many experts with no skill these days they are the ones that don't take into account every job is different and requires different steps etc.. Proof is in the pudding as we say.. great work. Thanks Trev
Nice, clear and detailed explanation. Enjoyable to watch, thank you.
Just found this channel, and subscribed, I was very impressed. Very clever man and easy to watch.
Thanks Trev for your time and effort in making this video 😀
Good morning Trev, more good stuff. Thanks for sharing your expertise, I always learn new tips, tricks, and techniques from your videos. Can't wait for the next one. Have a great weekend, take care.
I've found that block sanding with primer over the filler is so much better than trying to get bare filler smooth. Repeat the process several times and it gives amazing results with a 100 grit, then 120 grit dry sand. From there I'll follow your method. Cheers Trev.
So right you are about the holes. I'm working on a 1968 Bertram boat that has to be spot on when I'm done. There aren't a lot of videos on high build primer especially when it comes to marine applications. Great video though and you did help me quite a bit.
Can't think of another channel that's so instructive, especially on the details. You make it look easy, but nevertheless , encourages me to have a go.
Well done Trev you’re a top bloke. Really admire your skill, patience and attention to detail. She’s gonna look too good mate 👌👍🍻
Excellent video especially at 4:00 am, thank you for sharing your years of experience
Yea man got hate the haters. Im oldschool myself and TH-cam is good for seeing things done different ways. To get the job at hand done. I adapt all good ways n make my own. Like they say should learn something ever day. Its the way of life it all trades. Love the vid Trev love ya styles 👊👌
Truly enjoy your videos. Saw some of the later vids, then watched some of the first vids. You have really come into your own, with loosening up and going with it. Keep up the great work.
Excellent video Trev, Until the dry sanding phase caught on, I always wet sanded all the primer and color coats. I started back in the days of non catalyzed lacquer primer/surfacer. Stopped at 800-900 grit. Color sanded with 1000-1200 grit. Over here in the USA wet sanding is coming back for BC/CC jobs both waterborne and solvent. In fact at the community college collision program were I teach we added two wet sanding units that trickle water through the palm type DA from a filtered source. I still like the sponge and block method. I squeegee with a 3M spot putty rubber applicator and wipe with a lint free cloth. I also have never had a finish failure from wet sanding primer and have been happily using water as a sanding lubricant since 1974. Thanks again for the great tutorial.
Anthony Visnesky Thanks I’m glad you’ve said this, it does make sense to say don’t wet sand as primer is absorbent but to what degree are we talking about? I’ve never witnessed this water absorption from wet sanding and I’ve worked in some big shops 10 painters 2-3 jobs each a day all wet flatting for years and years never a come back due to water absorption ever. Cheers Trev 👍
Hello, Trev from Atlanta, GA USA First time watching one of your videos. Very much like your style of video. I also prefer to wet sand primer, and like you don't believe it causes any problems. Look forward to watching more of your videos. Excellent video!
Hello Trev - hope it is a nice day over there? Cheers from AUSTRALIA.
Spot on with the technique Trev. Almost 100% what I would do. I discovered the benefits of dry blocking primer back in the late 80`s when all we did was use a small rubber block with 600. I had to knock out some pretty tough jobs back then just to survive and I quickly found that knocking down filler with the DA then knocking down high build with a large block and 180 would get things straight and ripple free. If it was a trade job or damaged repairable I would finish with 500 on the DA. Higher spec work would get a wet block with 800- 1200 depending on the top coat. Fact is dry blocking with the largest practicle size block gets things straight. Ideally if you can get away without wet flatting then that is best as you have less chance of introducing contaminants to the primer which could effect the final finish.
Iv always wet flatted as thats how my dad taught me. looking good vans coming along nicely
Anyone who criticizes your work is an idiot, plain and simple. You do absolutely top work. And I have been around bodyshops and restorers my whole life ... not to mention having done a number of restorations myself. Top work.
So easy to listen to you mate. Job done
Nice 1 Trev, Could you show us the full painting process please good Sir. Things like which bits to paint first, how to paint the tricky bits and how you blend two panels, ie the roof to a lower panel.
Again thank you for passing on your skills and knowledge.
I'm relying on you to teach me enough to make my 55 chevy truck look somewhat decent. Lol keep up the nice job
Best tip for anyone is always. Take your time, do not try to rush things and the results pay off. I always find if its your daily, its cheaper to buy a beater to run while you perfect your project than to do it twice ;)
Beautiful work Trev, can't wait to see the Bedford in all its glory!! Lovin' the tunes!!
I'm waiting to see the finnished van, & enjoy your taste in music.
Trev star man thank for your clear honest answer, always enjoy your content and a pleasure to get some personal advice from someone you trust👍👍👍👍👍👍
Awesome video on the different methods of flattening 2k filler primer, Cheers from OZ
I've been watching a few of your videos and I'm impressed by your work. I like your video style where you present things slow enough so a person can really see what's your approach to solving problems. Keep up the great work.
Thanks a lot Trev, I'm from Buenos Aires, Argentina, and your guides are usefull for me. Thanks a lot for share. Great works...thaks a lot.
Another brilliant video ! Well done Trev - props from down under!
Great video Trev. Can't wait to see the van finshed, its going to look great after all your meticulous preperation.
Cheers, Jeff.
cabdriveruk thanks as always Jeff. Cheers Trev 👍
Lots of good info, nice job and blog, Spot on Trev.
good work trev Ive work this in the 80 with my father when we painting cars bus and trucks fine work bye
Very nice job Trev. The Van is gonna be greatful looking.
Very timely Trev, I’ve removed all the rust on my 73 GM Statesman using a 1000l Electrolosis bath, and am at the Epoxy primer stage. I would love to patch as I go but it all happened so quickly I just need to coat it, I don’t want to put polyester on steel , I’ll just give it a scuff I think.
I first arrived on your channel looking for guidance and it’s anticipated entertainment now, same as Pete C at Cortina City, I forget there is plenty to go back and watch, I’ll trust your experience thanks and block primer just like that ;)
As always Trev.... LOVE your work (and your music!)
Just a very deliberate well explained step by step from epoxy through 2K. Hats off and a subscribe. Keep rocking it.
There you go. Everything you need to know to make a nice prepwork. Love it. I´m in the proces to build a nother hotrod, one with a roof this time. Always wanted a mod A-Ford Tudor so thats what i´m going for.
building up to pain my bay window, after welding up the gas bottle hole in the side! Videos are a great help thanks Trev (Rob from Aus)
been doing collision work over 40 years damn nice work
Hey Trev another great video, these videos are by far some of the best instructional youtube videos on here.
Brilliant video, I'm currently painting my Reliant Fox Tandy camper van. One coat of undercoat on, about to add the second. Thanks....Dave
Thanks trev
Just getting to the same stage with my floride
Love these sneak peeks of the van, Monsieur Trev is teasing us
Smack smooth, love it. Great content Trev.
VERY VERY WELL DONE!! LEARNED ALOT OF GREAT TECHNIQUES; PLEASE KEEP UP THE GOOD WORK !! CHEERS !!! PATRICK.P
I agree on the wet sand, water absorption is not an issue, its not wet long enough to be an issue. If you are concerned, give it 20 mins in the booth on 40 ;)
Wonderful information and explanation that gives me better understanding of why this is done this way. I would suggest a brandy wine with a silver metal-flake in it or a medium brown with gold metal-flake for the lower paint.
Hi trev Well done as usual. You can put epoxy primer on first and the apply body filler on top. I have seen where it can rust under the filler after a few years if applied direct to bare metal. But everyone to there own way.
Great vid, very interesting, why the 2 on your hand 🤔
Nice to see the Van again.
Very nice and straight Trev, will be a perfect job.
Great video Trev, definitely learned a few tricks!
Thanks for taking time,and giving us procedures and techniques on doing things.Now a days I even use circular motions on my body filler and it works great.
Thank you a lot for sharing your knowledge. So interesting and so much hard work which pays at the end. Cheers from Mauritius!
thanks trev for taking time to help us all i love perfection rockingham wa
Great stuff Trev, can't wait to see the van finished.
Cheap thinner-gun wash-spirit wipe type things can be made from recycled chemicals I believe and that can lead to fish eyes as the solvent may have previously been used where silicone was present, top painter the gun man says the same thing. Well we pay our money and make our choice. And again A Great Video Trev.
Very interesting and educational although I wondered why can’t you spray on some more primer if you accidentally burn through while flatting it?
Yes you certainly can prime a car as many times as you like. It’s all about time and effort and what kind of a result you’re after. In accident repair shops it’s common to leave spots that have been sanded through. The car is masked to top coat and a light coat of aerosol etch primer is sprayed on just to cover the spot and painted straight on top. It’s also common In high end restoration shops to prime everything twice, this really ensures a perfect surface to lay that paint on. Cheers Trev 👍
A nice video from a nice guy. Looking forward to seeing the end result! top job. cheers
Trev Thank you for all your efforts I have never had the passion to do a nice prep job like that. It will look great
Geez Louise Trev thanks for the block tips helps me a lot.
thanx so much for taking the time to do this for us. you have the best videos
Greetings from Finland. Great video again! Could you introduce the ventilation of yours paint booth in one of the following episodes?
Hi Trev, how do you go about treating things like the groove in the body work at 21:24 please? particularly the small angle sides and the deeper corners?
Great vid, thanks, I'm now a subscriber :)
Fold paper over on itself or make small wooden blocks, sometimes cut up filler spreaders and wrap sanding paper around it. Cheers Trev 👍
@@trevsblog Thanks Trev :)
Perfect timing, just about to do the same on one of my projects
Another helpful vid Trev, top man.
My personal preference after primering & before final paint on my car has been too shoot 2 coats of solid gloss of a similar or same coat as the final colour.
This helps me check the final reflections/imperfections, once I'm happy with that, I can finish it with complete confidence, I know this is not a commercially viable option, but this extra stage reduces any possible dissapointments, the paint finish it what everybody look at as you know.
Great work Trev, appreciate you setting high standards on TH-cam
4:27 you are using a Greek guide coat by the way , great that it works out nice !
im reading this because Ive paid nearly 7k for a paint job and some rust work and im now left with having to sand it back and start over again as there were da swirl marks everywhere and panel consistency were various with some various orange peel, other panels very flat(still showing swirls marks) then panels so flat that you could see primer showing! body repair work is already rusting and panels miss aligned so my front grill has to be bent to fit. Ughhh painter cut wires to remove hatch and he put doors back on either stripping/cross threading screws or not even replacing the screws or panel hardware....very frustrating but very thankful for youtube and your channel for knowledge...
Unfortunately I hear this all of the time. 7K is a great deal of money for you to part with but isn’t a great deal of money when you’re operating a paint shop. A paint shop with crap staff or worse a crap boss that pushes the staff to bodge everything as fast as possible to get the money back in before the business goes bust. It’s a sad situation.
@@trevsblog yeah its unfortunate i gave my van to a guy in his own personal garage to do the work because he convinced me he was an aficionado and wanted to keep these van on the road using his twenty years of restoration experience. He is the admin of one the FB pages here in oz and when i raised my concerns after viewing the end project in sun i was blocked from the page and eventually removed all together.....uhhg Ive learned some hard lessons through this endeavour. The one over arching rule i've learned is, years of experience does not equate to quality. They say you can have two things and not the other (quality, done quickly, Cheap) unfortunately it wasn't done quickly and 7k wasn't that cheap. anyhoo off to buy a selection of soft flatboards and sandpaper. Thank you for hearing me and for your videos they will help me quite alot!
Thanks for taking the time to make this video I find it very help full thank you
Thanks Trev, restoring an old BMW and after your video, will get DA320, DA500, then 800 wet and 1000 wet for a silver metallic base and clear.
Have you had adhesion issues flatting with 1000 wet?
People say in two years paint could peel off on the motorway 🥺.
Top stuff Trev, you have a new subscriber!
I’ve had no adhesion problems personally 👍
What should I do if I rub through the high fill to bare metal? Should I do a light wet coat before my base coat of colour? Love the video and your honesty!! Great content
Depends how fussy you want to be. Busy bodyshops will normally just spray a light coat of 1k etch primer from an aerosol can over the area, job done…and in most cases it does the trick. Being more thorough you may want to mask the area and prime it again. Cheers Trev 👍
Thanks for the tips Trev! Beautiful work!!
Thank You 👍 as always great video. Love this channel.
Everything I needed to know to progress my respray project to the next step. Great video 👍🏻 thanks for sharing your knowledge
Thanks for sharing this knowledge and your videos in general.