Del Shannon said it best.. "To end this misery and I wonder I won, won. won wonder. Why, why, why, why, why, why she ran away. I wonder where she will stay. My runaway run, run, run, run runaway."
This is my go to procedure for any runs I get.I use dolphin glaze. I use wooden blocks too but I start with 600 grit then move to 1200 as soon as the majority of the filler has sanded off. A hard flat block,as small as you can get away with is the key
I made myself a small steel sanding block years ago for this job (I don't tend to get runs anymore but it might happen again someday, I have used it on other people's jobs since though). It's just a small piece of hot rolled 5mm steel, probably 25x100mm. I lapped one side flat then feathered the edges out and polished it. I used the feathered edge/corner to sand the bulk of the run and only the run because it's steel and has no flex, once it's almost flat I flatten the block to the panel and finish up. Takes seconds and works great with a little practice. It's about 1% of the effort here too. This is a very good technique though, just thought I'd share my findings.
Trev, if you want to speed up the dry time on your run, just cut it almost flat with a fresh razor blade. Helps with wait times before you can block out the run!
easiest method I use is to wait till the paint flashes off then when run is still wet simply stick a piece of masking tape lightly over the run, pull it off and it leaves a level area , learnt this trick from old coach painters who used synthetic enamel
Thank you for this. I don’t know why all other painters do t use this technique. I have a project with runs, I hope to successfully use this method soon.
Ever use a nib block Trev, that's what I use for removing runs. Let it cure shaves off the surface high spot then 400 stepped up all the way to polish.
I've tried all manor of removing runs, sags, defects. Razor blades, nib files, sanding. This is the my preferred method. Warning to the uninitiated. Be prepared to color sand and polish the panel because your corrected area stands out like a bright shiny thumb. Also adding a little fiberglass resin (polyester resin) to the filler makes it butter smooth again.
great idea to put filler on first to support the sandpaper. completely logical and I'd never have thought of it! Here's a tip I got from a pro painter... If you have a run or sag develop and you notice it right away, take a piece of tape and touch it to the run to lift it off before it sets, it might not be perfect but another coat of paint will usually make it close, and then you can still use your technique but won't need to go as far with it
Yes this does happen a lot. It’s the weight of the paint pulling downwards combined with the growing surface tension of the drying paint. It’s totally possible to touch this kind of thing in with a small brush then flat and polish out afterwards. Cheers Trev 👍
Hey Trev, I've never tried it that way before but, the theory is very sound. I've used a kind of the same to sand back to get rid of hand pinstriping, By using a hard block it takes the pinstripe instead of the surrounding paint. Great tip Thank You !
add some Polyester resin to old filler to get the creaminess back. Also can add to the filler to make it like Dolphin glaze consistency. What masking tape do you use also?
Unrelated I'm afraid, but could you give an opinion on welding up a sunroof hole where no roof skin is available. Is there any reason why someone skilled could not do this on a quality restoration project ? Thanks for any input
You could English wheel up a repair section the butt weld it in for an invisible repair. But be warned this type of repair isn’t an easy task. Cheers Trev 👍
@@trevsblog Thanks Trev. I'd be looking to hand the shell over to a body shop. Wanted to get your thoughts on how comfortable someone like yourself would be with this. Thanks for answering.
Trev me old quiffed quanderer, something i would love know is how the mickey mouse body panels are made, i know how the proper manufacture ones are done with huge ass presses but i was wondering if it was something you were interested in too? do they use a gerry rigged press is it something the made from an existing panel as a copy then cast dies for a production run etc might be of interest to your viewers,
As far as I’m aware spurious panel manufacturers buy worn tooling from vehicle manufacturers, this would account for many copy panels not fitting very well. Small scale manufacturers of parts for vw camper vans etc use a lot of home built tooling like hammer forming tools etc. After that I don’t really know to be honest. If I get to have a chat to forge motorsport I’ll ask them 👍
Jim this is direct gloss 2K paint so it comes out of the gun glossy. If there was no run I could have left it as it was or spent a couple of hours polishing it up to improve the finished paint surface. It is possible to clear coat this type of paint if you desired but for most projects the paint as it is will be fine. Cheers Trev 👍
Hi Trev, finding this tonight is a thanksgiving surprise for me. I had some clear runs recently spraying upol clear, it was a bit too cold for slow hardener. I have not tried to fix them yet but did buy a nib file but have not tried it yet. Ever try one?
Yes I’ve had varying success with many files and denibbing tools. This filler method has been by far the most successful method I have found. Thank you 😊
Years ago, my Uncle Fred taught me a trick, if you discover the run while the paint is still wet. Take a piece of masking tape about 8" long, hold it near each end in a "u" shape with the sticky side out. Carefully "roll" the tap over the run with a light touch and the tape will pick up / remove the heaviest part of the run. The remaining paint will flow out to to some extent. If the run was on the first coat, the second coat will cover with often no sign of the run. We did this around 30 years ago, so I'm not sure if the new paints will act the same.
Getting yourself in the shit is easy !!! Getting yourself out is the clever part...well done sir for sharing a quality tip.
Doing this technique 20 years ago.. don't use ordinarily filler..use finishing filler..top stop gold..
I know very little about paintwork. But I never would have guessed that this method would work. Thanks for another gem.
Del Shannon said it best..
"To end this misery and I wonder
I won, won. won wonder.
Why, why, why, why, why, why
she ran away.
I wonder where she will stay.
My runaway run, run, run, run runaway."
That is a great idea never would have thought of that. After all no one wants to get the runs, let alone having other people looking at them.
Thanks Trev. Removing runs has been the bane of my life. I've done everything you did except putting the filler on first. Makes total sense now.
Genius! Brilliant! Thanks so much from Oregon 👋
In all of Trev's videos I have ever watched, there is just one lesson.
Patience.
That's his incredible talent.
Brilliant Trev. Thanks so much for sharing your talent & skill. Billy J.... Queensland, Australia.
The GUNMAN demonstrated this technique years ago, but good to see you using it. Your metal fabrication skills are topnotch.
Trev also did a vid a few years ago too on the same thing
Excellent video thanks Trev
Thanks so much for this excellent tip Trev.
Quite an interesting take on run removal, and one I'd never seen before. I will be adding that to my arsenal.
Great info as usual Trev👍
Great idea, thanks. I’ll try that next time.
You sir are an artist!
Thanks Trev for another instructive video.
With runs in this shed more the rule than the exception thats great stuff .
great advice ,thankyou Trev !!
Very handy tip there trev
Great to see your well great tip will have to try that saw you do that on your bedford when you painted it great stuff usual Keep the vids coming
I learnt something today, many thanks Trev :)
I have used this trick years back, it works well!
Dam amazing, The Metal work you do is WOW
Great tip, hope I never get to use it but I can guarantee I will .... soon lol.
This is my go to procedure for any runs I get.I use dolphin glaze.
I use wooden blocks too but I start with 600 grit then move to 1200 as soon as the majority of the filler has sanded off.
A hard flat block,as small as you can get away with is the key
Very useful tech tip to know, thanks for sharing Trev 👍🏻
Great tip Trev! Very informative. 11 out of 10 points👏👏. Gus
Very professional, what a great tip!…
I would never thought of doing that make so much sense, great tip thanks.
I made myself a small steel sanding block years ago for this job (I don't tend to get runs anymore but it might happen again someday, I have used it on other people's jobs since though).
It's just a small piece of hot rolled 5mm steel, probably 25x100mm. I lapped one side flat then feathered the edges out and polished it.
I used the feathered edge/corner to sand the bulk of the run and only the run because it's steel and has no flex, once it's almost flat I flatten the block to the panel and finish up. Takes seconds and works great with a little practice. It's about 1% of the effort here too.
This is a very good technique though, just thought I'd share my findings.
Brilliant work, Thanks for the great video, very very informative.
Trev, if you want to speed up the dry time on your run, just cut it almost flat with a fresh razor blade. Helps with wait times before you can block out the run!
easiest method I use is to wait till the paint flashes off then when run is still wet simply stick a piece of masking tape lightly over the run, pull it off and it leaves a level area , learnt this trick from old coach painters who used synthetic enamel
Thank you for this. I don’t know why all other painters do t use this technique. I have a project with runs, I hope to successfully use this method soon.
Probably because a good painter would never get a run in the first place
@@rickmoss9444 That’s an elementary statement. I never claim to be a good painter.
That was fantastic. I thought you would have to sand and repaint.
Absolutely love your content Trev, you are talented and entertaining, a true pleasure to watch.
What a great way to remove a run...and it makes complete sense!! Great video, Trev! 😎👊❤
Thanks Jack 😘
Ever use a nib block Trev, that's what I use for removing runs. Let it cure shaves off the surface high spot then 400 stepped up all the way to polish.
I had a play with a Festool one, interesting stuff. Cheers Trev 👍
I've tried all manor of removing runs, sags, defects. Razor blades, nib files, sanding. This is the my preferred method. Warning to the uninitiated. Be prepared to color sand and polish the panel because your corrected area stands out like a bright shiny thumb. Also adding a little fiberglass resin (polyester resin) to the filler makes it butter smooth again.
Nice!!I have not tried that one before will keep it in Mind
Thanks much
Thanks for sharing this tip Trev, I’ll be trying it out tomorrow morning 🙈👍
Pro tip 👍👏👏
great idea to put filler on first to support the sandpaper. completely logical and I'd never have thought of it!
Here's a tip I got from a pro painter... If you have a run or sag develop and you notice it right away, take a piece of tape and touch it to the run to lift it off before it sets, it might not be perfect but another coat of paint will usually make it close, and then you can still use your technique but won't need to go as far with it
What a clever fix! Thanks.
priceless tip ! thanks Trev!
Why is there still a divot? Did the run pull away some of the previously applied adjacent paint? Great job. Never seen that trick before.
Yes this does happen a lot. It’s the weight of the paint pulling downwards combined with the growing surface tension of the drying paint. It’s totally possible to touch this kind of thing in with a small brush then flat and polish out afterwards. Cheers Trev 👍
Hey Trev, I've never tried it that way before but, the theory is very sound. I've used a kind of the same to sand back to get rid of hand pinstriping, By using a hard block it takes the pinstripe instead of the surrounding paint. Great tip Thank You !
Never would have thought of using filler to remove a run.
Very good videos. That's exactly what I needed to know. Thanks
Thanks 👍
Brilliant what trick, it will take some courage to put the filler on but it looks a fantastic way to cut a run back without damaging surrounding area
Hey thanks 👍
Excellent explanation ty
Brilliant tip! Thanks a million! 😍
Thank you 👍
Why does your paint always look beautiful before you've even started the finishing? Mine always look like a dogs dinner first. 😂
Excellent. Thank you.
add some Polyester resin to old filler to get the creaminess back. Also can add to the filler to make it like Dolphin glaze consistency. What masking tape do you use also?
I think it’s called Q1 👍
This is a great top tip, thank s for this.
Thanks 😊
Good info
Unrelated I'm afraid, but could you give an opinion on welding up a sunroof hole where no roof skin is available. Is there any reason why someone skilled could not do this on a quality restoration project ? Thanks for any input
You could English wheel up a repair section the butt weld it in for an invisible repair. But be warned this type of repair isn’t an easy task. Cheers Trev 👍
@@trevsblog Thanks Trev. I'd be looking to hand the shell over to a body shop. Wanted to get your thoughts on how comfortable someone like yourself would be with this. Thanks for answering.
Great tip Trev. Top notch advice as always 👌
what a great video. cheer's.
Thank you 👍
Very neat trick :)
Great video. 👌🏻
Does this technique also work on epoxy paint.
Cheers Trev. 🍻
I’ve never tried it to be honest 👍
@@trevsblog Thanks for replay.
Cheers.
Trev me old quiffed quanderer, something i would love know is how the mickey mouse body panels are made, i know how the proper manufacture ones are done with huge ass presses but i was wondering if it was something you were interested in too?
do they use a gerry rigged press is it something the made from an existing panel as a copy then cast dies for a production run etc
might be of interest to your viewers,
As far as I’m aware spurious panel manufacturers buy worn tooling from vehicle manufacturers, this would account for many copy panels not fitting very well. Small scale manufacturers of parts for vw camper vans etc use a lot of home built tooling like hammer forming tools etc. After that I don’t really know to be honest. If I get to have a chat to forge motorsport I’ll ask them 👍
Had there been no run, would your job have been done or would you have sanded and clear coated?
JIM
Jim this is direct gloss 2K paint so it comes out of the gun glossy. If there was no run I could have left it as it was or spent a couple of hours polishing it up to improve the finished paint surface. It is possible to clear coat this type of paint if you desired but for most projects the paint as it is will be fine. Cheers Trev 👍
Hi Trev, finding this tonight is a thanksgiving surprise for me. I had some clear runs recently spraying upol clear, it was a bit too cold for slow hardener. I have not tried to fix them yet but did buy a nib file but have not tried it yet. Ever try one?
Yes I’ve had varying success with many files and denibbing tools. This filler method has been by far the most successful method I have found. Thank you 😊
Nice 👍 goat it 🤔
🎉
Years ago, my Uncle Fred taught me a trick, if you discover the run while the paint is still wet. Take a piece of masking tape about 8" long, hold it near each end in a "u" shape with the sticky side out. Carefully "roll" the tap over the run with a light touch and the tape will pick up / remove the heaviest part of the run. The remaining paint will flow out to to some extent. If the run was on the first coat, the second coat will cover with often no sign of the run. We did this around 30 years ago, so I'm not sure if the new paints will act the same.
Yes I remember this one, I was never any good at it and just made a bigger mess 🤦🏻♂️
@@trevsblog The more runs you have, the better you get at removing them. Practice makes perfect, LOL