I really like Trev's 'flavor'. He has a mellow approach to his work, and you can see that his perception just gets right in there and he always knows how things are going. I am not at his level, but i strive for just such a focused approach where you keep correcting it until it is pretty dialed in.
Just fixed the wavy bonnet on my 1960 Falcon using a blow torch and a few basic tools thanks to your blog. Always been into welding, but not panel beating, never thought I be able to shrink. Cheers
Back in 77, (old school), I was taught how to remove stretched spots, (high Spots), in fender panels with only a rosebud tip to heat with, and a wet rag to quench with. I could literally hear the panel pop back into place while doing so. Its a bit of artwork to achieve and does take practice but in most cases, I did not need to hammer at all. I actually became quite good at doing so in under a day. I simply heated and quenched strategically. Its all about understanding what caused the stretch and where to heat to remove it. Small circular dents were easy. The skillful part was removing an oval or even curved stretch. As for the hammering, I was also taught to angle my hammer taps with strokes going inward towards the center of the high spot, from all angles around the high spot, not to hammer directly downward on the high spot.
Top job Mate. I've learned so much from your wealth of knowledge and experience. I have been in paintless dent repair for 25 years and always try to increase my abilities. Thank you.
Easiest way to tell a quality tradesman, they make it look easy! Make you think I can do that. Which is exactly what you've done. Having been in the painting/panel industry many years ago I know I can't do this, but I'll find some scrap and try it 👌 awesome work mate, pleasure to watch.
I really appreciate your work to show how the light shows the high and low spots. Not easy to see on the camera but easy to understand. It is obvious you take a lot of effort in your filming, thank you.
I’m looking at an old Dodge a108 Xplorer and anticipate building some rocker repair panels, a door bottom and tackling some dreaded A-pillar rust. Your channel is an inspiration!
Great video. In the late 50's, yeah, I am that old, the method I was taught to use to shrink panels, was to use the acetylene torch and actually heat the spot I wanted to shrink to a cherry red, before cooling with a wet rag and then hammering. It is interesting to learn that the process might have worked at a much lower temperature. I was doing a chop and channel on a 34 Ford pickup, and because of the hard life the truck had lived, there were a lot of dings, some about quarter sized, that had to be shrunk back into shape. The bodyman that taught me was a master with working metal, and like you, he used a lot of finesse to straighten even severe dents. You do great work, and I am looking forward to watching more of your videos.
In some respects I wish I hadn’t made this video using a blow lamp. I actually made this video as a request by someone that only had a blow lamp as a heat source. Using a O/A torch is more effective as it creates a smaller spot of heat. Having said this it’s actually possible to use a hot air gun to shrink metal if you use it to expand the panel in an area before giving it a blow with the panel hammer, the heat expansion holds the panel ridged placing compression along in when hit with the hammer forcing it to shrink, a bit like a mechanical Shrinker. By far the most useful for me is a single sided spot welder. Thanks for your comments. 👍
Ive been a painter for over 20 years... Now starting to do full frame off restorations... Ive been hard pressed to find quality craftsmen in my area or in canaduh period.. Ive recently subbed to your channel and your ability is awesome... I love to learn from talented craftsmen. Thanks Trev!
Definitely love the DIY tools. Much better than hundreds of dollars in less effective name brands. As a request, I would like to see a cut-out and patch welded in. I've seen others on youtube but I would like to see how you do it just cause you seem to explain the processes better. Thank you for your efforts they really are helpful.
Nevermind on that request I just saw Old School Gas welding video. Very helpful. Go figure as soon as I comment, the next video I watch is what I needed.
You truly are the magicians of the motor trade. The nuts and bolts brigade is easy peasy by comparison. Cheers and keep up the great tutorials. Regards Peter A.
I've just recently been introduced to your channel and I'm delighted to be enlightened by your knowledge. You have a great teaching style, patience in both your work and explanations. Thank you for taking the time to do this 👍🏻
Hi Trev Regards from NZ enjoy your Blogs, straightening metals is always a patience game I have been in the metal fabrication game all my working career Ships trucks Tanks etc What one has to keep in mind firstly is that steel plate has been Mill manufactured, heated & rolled Quenched Etc which imparts Locked in residual stresses Thinner plate usually the worst as heavy plate cools slower and partially stress relieves itself Then the user forms, Heats Welds as well and releases and forms more stresses to form distortion Keep up the great information blog Its all about experience and Listening well done mate
I seem to remember my dad who was a sheet metal worker saying you can also take high spots out by using a torch turning the area red and then rapidly cooling the are with a cold wet rag. He also did it the way you showed. Great video many thanks.
Good gravy Trev, it works! I found a previous repair last night on the tail panel of my Firebird so I decided to pop the filler out and repair the dent, unfortunately, I pounded the metal a little thin and it had the feel of a pop tin, so this morning I watched your video and tried it and with 2 minutes and 2 tries it was back straight, nice and tight, it worked perfectly. Thanks for the awesome tip! Cheers
The advantage of an oxygen acetylene system is you can make pin shrinks (tiny spots, very localized heat) . A dolly backup might help when you hammer, but that's always been my approach and I don't know everything. Very interesting the way you are doing it. Cheers from Canada !
Great video. I was just trying to shrink excess metal from a panel today, but was unsuccessful. It is "tramping" as I call it, but the same thing, it's high to begin with but will flip to a low point if I push it. A couple of things that will make a difference is that my butane torch does not produce a fine, pointed flame like yours. It makes the heated area twice the size. Plus, I was just quenching it, I wasn't tapping it while it was hot. I'll be having another go in the morning. I really enjoyed the video and the way you explain things, so I've subscribed and look forward to any future videos. Cheers.
Ray Plant by putting the heat into the area you are actually expanding the metal, this expansion causes a lot of tension allowing you to hammer the metal without it popping back in. When you hammer it, it causes the metal to shrink. The quenching isn’t as important as it appears as I’m mostly using this to bring the temperature down so that I can inspect the repair. Cheers Trev 👍
Love you too Trev. Therefore I just want to echo Papa Bob's comment so you're still with us for a very long time. I took a few semesters of welding from an adult education class in a local high school, and the bit about butane lighters being dangerous is serious stuff. I dimly recall the story of a welder on the Canadian railroad who died when a bit of welding spark went through his shirt pocket and set off his lighter. Poor chap. Be well and physically distance yourself from the damn virus, (and those lighters!).
From one Trevor to another Trevor, great work... ive been using ur tips and tricks to rebuild my no.3 of 150 MGF abingdon vvc. You are helping me save the car using all my own hands. Every corner and sill fabricated and welded better than new. Thanks so much.... T.
Love ur work bro. Many years ago I use to work in the trade and worked with a body man that use to build AC cobras etc in Uk. So use to watch his work. Thank u.
I remember my dad trying to explain to me how to shrink high spots and it wasn't getting in. Maybe i'm a bit thick but the way you showed gave me hope. Thanks much, so interesting.
Great video ! It works great and easier than i thought . Had to relocate the tank filler spot on my bedford .welded the ring in for the fillercap .was al warped .thanks for the great video . greetings from Holland
As always fantastic , I couldn’t. Help laughing.....the weld breaks and you knock yourself out with that slide hammer , I wouldn’t want it too happen but thanks for titalating my humour 🥳🥳
Great video 👍 hope all young beaters will find it very helpful like myself. You can't find those informations on the spotter datasheet 😂 Some people like you had to spend years to learn this the hardest way we have it on the plate. Hope will be much appreciated. Regards Mike
A 13:00 you admit that shrinking went too far and is now a low spot. Then you find a new oilcan. This is where you use the hammer to bring the low spot up, hopefully pulling on the oilcan and eliminating it
Im finding new stuff to me Trev. This is great as usual. I love the clock and tin man you made. The vespa model is superb too. Thanks for what you do. Im going to look for your video where you use some copper. Cheers col
Another interesting post! I've used heat shrink to straighten shafts, after a weld repair, but just used a water or air quench. Love the homemade tools. Seems like the work is more fun when done with them. Thanks!
Subscribed, I've watched many video's of this type and Trev is by far the best. The tools are genius, I also make them as needed. Love the the slide hammer at the end,I made a clamp ended variation of this a while back to sandwich the weld on type dent puller studs which allowed me to move around on the dent and pull from all, center or either side as needed. Thanks for sharing your skills and knowledge!!
Good tip for you when welding a pull bar [20:20] run a weld to panel first then weld bar on to weld so after work you do not damage panel when removing bar [often pit marks /holes ]
this is something that i tried a few years ago unsuccessfully. now i know that i was doing the hammering part wrong (i was using a dolly behind it and just stretching it further) so thank you for filling that gap in my knowledge.
You were doing it correctly,the idea is to heat up the metal to a small red spot and then with a hammer and dolly gently planish around the circumference of the red spot which has the effect that as the hammer hits where the dolly is it sqeeezes the metal into the red dot thereby shrinking the panel.I learnt how to do it in the 1960s as an apprentice panel beater.
your a master autoplateworker good video and never understand I my father when me said (making hot here make hot there) and Inot understand it and all this is for expancion an crimping wow Ive learn today a thing bye
Hi Trev . Thanks for that great vid. Good to see you back on your project. Have really learnt something today , as when we have the odd panel that has been stretched due to a large quantity of holes , we have heated an area and rapidly cooled with water then dress out with panel hammer to flat. sometimes it works well sometimes not so . Will bear in mind your Vid . Keep it up .look forward to the next vid.Regards Don
Don Codman Don just bear in mind I only cool the panel in order to bring the whole repaired area back down to room temp before checking the repair, even the slightest bit of heat still remaining in the panel can make it warp. When using a flame always hit the heated area as soon as it is heated, then let it cool to check your repair. I’m planning on doing more heat shrinking videos in the future and will include lots of theory as well. Cheers Trev 👍
Hi Trev, just watched your interesting blog on heat shrinking a panel. As a plumber l noticed that you are holding the flame a bit to close to the metal. the hottest part of the flame is the tip of the dark blue cone, the flame is not so effective if the cone impinges on the metal. otherwise a good blog.
Very nice and intuitive video 👍 I’ve just done a sunroof delete on my old Porsche 911 using a blank which was English wheeled out to follow the correct contour. After trimming to size etc I followed up butt-welding (10” apart working one side to the other) to try and keep the heat distortion to a minimum but whilst the remaining original part of the roof skin has remained relatively distortion free, the wheeled panel has mushroomed up about 3mm 🙄. I have purchased one of those planishing discs from the US in 9” size but a little shy to use it yet... if you could do a video of using one correctly that would be fantastic as most of the ones on YT are of poor substance 😟 Oh and yes please for the aircooler/dryer you’ve made for you compressor as that would be very helpful to 🤗 Keep them vids coming, many of us viewers learn so many great techniques from you, it’s greatly appreciated 👍
Mark Shepherd Hi Mark, I’ve never used a shrinking disc, I’ve thought about it though 🤔 I actually use my welding torch or my spot welder I’ve converted into a shrinking machine. I’m saving up for a proper stud welder at the moment to do a follow up video for more advanced heat shrinking methods. Lots more stuff to come for sure. Cheers Trev 👍
I made my own shrinking disc from an old circular saw blade with the teeth cut off. *( safety note: cutting the teeth off by running the disc grinder against the running saw does work but can be painful!) I recessed the center hole with a ball peen hammer over the end of a pipe. It works. Trev, you do great work.
One trick to do where the crack is still a small hole right at the end of the crack to stop it from going any farther then weld it all up I have seen cracks that were welded before crack again because it was not drilled to stop it ... It like a oil filter that has a dent don't use it the dent will crack from the changing if the motor. Same with the panel with the vibration of the car.. Other that that great job for the tools that you used..
I'm wondering why a shrinking hammer wasn't used. I've chased enough oil can dents around, and around. A real pain for sure. Great vid. I'm just mesmerized with the physics of dents. You got to use light for this. it does actually drag around the dent. So cool..
Hi Trev, nice video again, as usual :) However it raised some questions that I would ask the teacher if I would stand next to him in the room. TH-cam is not the best medium for Q&A, but anyway... You basically turned a highspot into a lowspot here, metal being stretched up in the beginning and being stretched down at the end of the job. Am I right that the end result still is a stretched area, only the other way up (down)? Did you hammer it a bit too hard then? And then you state something interesting about a low spot being (relatively) easy to solve, versus a highspot being very annoying. But they basically are the same, or? Just flip the pannel and a highspot turns into a lowspot. How come you can bring up a low spot with hammer and dolly, but a hightspot not down? Where does my reasoning go wrong...? I will purchase one of these stainless discs to be used on the disc-grinder to apply heat to highspots, one of these days. Did you ever work with those? And what's you opinion on shrinking, only by cooling the hotspot down rapidly, without hammering? th-cam.com/video/FGMUEXGiySA/w-d-xo.html and www.vocor.nl/krimpschijf-shrinking-disk/1847-krimpschijf-shrinking-disk-125mm.html thx, cheers from Holland!
Dutch Classic Exhausts if someone asks this question they are truly asking a great question because it means that they are really trying to understand something that on the face of it seems straight forward. Most car panels are convex, if you have a high spot in a convex panel it means that it is stretched and needs to be shrunk normally by means of heat shrinking which is a harder operation compared to a low spot that needs stretching. I hope we’re agreed upon that. If you now flip the panel over, the panel is now concave and the reverse applies a high spot in a concave panel needs to be stretched not shrunk. If you shrink a high spot on a concave panel it becomes higher. If you ponder this for a while it answers many questions about the nature of high and low spots. The most controllable tool I have personally used for heat shrinking is my dent puller with the heat shrinking attachment. Cheers Trev 👍
@@trevsblog Thanks, Trev, I understand the nature of high and low spots better now. A low spot on a convex pannel is basically shrunk a bit: the metal takes a shorter road from A to B. That was my missing context. My new tools will come in this week; I will give it a try and see what happens. I already found that the fenders of my Citroën U23 light truck are quite solid steel, 1,5 mm at least. Probably not the best to practice on. Maybe I should practice on my neighbors car first :) cheers!
When dad did a shrink (oxy acet, so it was faster). He always held a dolly "around" the edge of the shrink as he tapped it. Then he moved the dolly gradually into the shrink to move the metal back to the profile. I was the kid inside the panel holding the dolly when he couldn't reach the spot.😉
the worst thing that happens is when the damage transfers to a spot behind a support in the panel that you cannot get your hands behind to straighten. that is the worst luck. Had that happen many many times
Hi Trev, A boxing day treat for me catching up with one of your videos that I hadn't previously watched. I have some aluminium to shape over the coming weeks and wondered if the blow lamp method would work equally well on that metal? Anyway, thank you so much for sharing your skills and enjoy the rest of your Christmas holiday. Kind regards Paul from 48 Spokes 🎄🎅🎄🎅👍
A more concentrated flame, smaller area,40years experience, even heat,even distortion. Love your videos, simplifying things for the diy
I really like Trev's 'flavor'. He has a mellow approach to his work, and you can see that his perception just gets right in there and he always knows how things are going. I am not at his level, but i strive for just such a focused approach where you keep correcting it until it is pretty dialed in.
Just fixed the wavy bonnet on my 1960 Falcon using a blow torch and a few basic tools thanks to your blog. Always been into welding, but not panel beating, never thought I be able to shrink. Cheers
Glad to have been of help. Cheers Trev 👍
Back in 77, (old school), I was taught how to remove stretched spots, (high Spots), in fender panels with only a rosebud tip to heat with, and a wet rag to quench with. I could literally hear the panel pop back into place while doing so. Its a bit of artwork to achieve and does take practice but in most cases, I did not need to hammer at all. I actually became quite good at doing so in under a day. I simply heated and quenched strategically. Its all about understanding what caused the stretch and where to heat to remove it. Small circular dents were easy. The skillful part was removing an oval or even curved stretch.
As for the hammering, I was also taught to angle my hammer taps with strokes going inward towards the center of the high spot, from all angles around the high spot, not to hammer directly downward on the high spot.
Dave Boling Do you have a video of your technique?
The science of what's going on explanation really adds value and appeal. More that. pls.
This is one of very few channels where I learn something and don’t judge say this guy doesn’t know what he is doing. Very good teacher
Top job Mate. I've learned so much from your wealth of knowledge and experience. I have been in paintless dent repair for 25 years and always try to increase my abilities. Thank you.
Thanks for your comment, PDR has always impressed me greatly. Cheers Trev 👍
Easiest way to tell a quality tradesman, they make it look easy! Make you think I can do that. Which is exactly what you've done. Having been in the painting/panel industry many years ago I know I can't do this, but I'll find some scrap and try it 👌 awesome work mate, pleasure to watch.
I really appreciate your work to show how the light shows the high and low spots. Not easy to see on the camera but easy to understand. It is obvious you take a lot of effort in your filming, thank you.
I’m looking at an old Dodge a108 Xplorer and anticipate building some rocker repair panels, a door bottom and tackling some dreaded A-pillar rust. Your channel is an inspiration!
Great video. In the late 50's, yeah, I am that old, the method I was taught to use to shrink panels, was to use the acetylene torch and actually heat the spot I wanted to shrink to a cherry red, before cooling with a wet rag and then hammering. It is interesting to learn that the process might have worked at a much lower temperature. I was doing a chop and channel on a 34 Ford pickup, and because of the hard life the truck had lived, there were a lot of dings, some about quarter sized, that had to be shrunk back into shape. The bodyman that taught me was a master with working metal, and like you, he used a lot of finesse to straighten even severe dents. You do great work, and I am looking forward to watching more of your videos.
In some respects I wish I hadn’t made this video using a blow lamp. I actually made this video as a request by someone that only had a blow lamp as a heat source. Using a O/A torch is more effective as it creates a smaller spot of heat. Having said this it’s actually possible to use a hot air gun to shrink metal if you use it to expand the panel in an area before giving it a blow with the panel hammer, the heat expansion holds the panel ridged placing compression along in when hit with the hammer forcing it to shrink, a bit like a mechanical Shrinker. By far the most useful for me is a single sided spot welder. Thanks for your comments. 👍
Ive been a painter for over 20 years...
Now starting to do full frame off restorations...
Ive been hard pressed to find quality craftsmen in my area or in canaduh period..
Ive recently subbed to your channel and your ability is awesome...
I love to learn from talented craftsmen.
Thanks Trev!
Definitely love the DIY tools. Much better than hundreds of dollars in less effective name brands.
As a request, I would like to see a cut-out and patch welded in. I've seen others on youtube but I would like to see how you do it just cause you seem to explain the processes better. Thank you for your efforts they really are helpful.
Nevermind on that request I just saw Old School Gas welding video. Very helpful. Go figure as soon as I comment, the next video I watch is what I needed.
Looks like it can oil can is what we call it,thank you Trevor, shrinking metal is an art.
You truly are the magicians of the motor trade. The nuts and bolts brigade is easy peasy by comparison. Cheers and keep up the great tutorials. Regards Peter A.
I've just recently been introduced to your channel and I'm delighted to be enlightened by your knowledge. You have a great teaching style, patience in both your work and explanations. Thank you for taking the time to do this 👍🏻
Thanks for keeping the art alive Trev! Your a real craftsman!!!
Hi Trev Regards from NZ enjoy your Blogs, straightening metals is always a patience game I have been in the metal fabrication game all my working career Ships trucks Tanks etc What one has to keep in mind firstly is that steel plate has been Mill manufactured, heated & rolled Quenched Etc which imparts Locked in residual stresses Thinner plate usually the worst as heavy plate cools slower and partially stress relieves itself Then the user forms, Heats Welds as well and releases and forms more stresses to form distortion Keep up the great information blog Its all about experience and Listening well done mate
No doubt Trev ,your blog is most informative . THANKYOU again . Good music as well
I seem to remember my dad who was a sheet metal worker saying you can also take high spots out by using a torch turning the area red and then rapidly cooling the are with a cold wet rag. He also did it the way you showed. Great video many thanks.
Fascinating watching you shrink that dented panel, very skilful thanks !
Great video! I needed a close up explanation of this hammer heat technique. Now I can take on some hail damage on my hood. Cheers!
Ha Ha. I was wondering what a blowlamp was. Its a propane torch! Ha Ha excellent! Great vid as always Trev. From across the pond here in California.
Good gravy Trev, it works! I found a previous repair last night on the tail panel of my Firebird so I decided to pop the filler out and repair the dent, unfortunately, I pounded the metal a little thin and it had the feel of a pop tin, so this morning I watched your video and tried it and with 2 minutes and 2 tries it was back straight, nice and tight, it worked perfectly. Thanks for the awesome tip! Cheers
More Very High Quality from a Professional.
Thanks for sharing !
The advantage of an oxygen acetylene system is you can make pin shrinks (tiny spots, very localized heat) . A dolly backup might help when you hammer, but that's always been my approach and I don't know everything. Very interesting the way you are doing it. Cheers from Canada !
Super job Trev! I've got an oil canning patch on a mower cutting deck I've made out of 2mm steel and will give this trick a try this weekend. Cheers!
Time spent watching your videos is time well spent. 😆
Great video. I was just trying to shrink excess metal from a panel today, but was unsuccessful. It is "tramping" as I call it, but the same thing, it's high to begin with but will flip to a low point if I push it.
A couple of things that will make a difference is that my butane torch does not produce a fine, pointed flame like yours. It makes the heated area twice the size. Plus, I was just quenching it, I wasn't tapping it while it was hot.
I'll be having another go in the morning.
I really enjoyed the video and the way you explain things, so I've subscribed and look forward to any future videos.
Cheers.
Ray Plant by putting the heat into the area you are actually expanding the metal, this expansion causes a lot of tension allowing you to hammer the metal without it popping back in. When you hammer it, it causes the metal to shrink. The quenching isn’t as important as it appears as I’m mostly using this to bring the temperature down so that I can inspect the repair. Cheers Trev 👍
@@trevsblog cheers Trev, I appreciate your response. I'm about to give it another go right now. Thanks.
Another brilliant video by a great craftsman,. well done Trev,..love your work !
Love you too Trev. Therefore I just want to echo Papa Bob's comment so you're still with us for a very long time. I took a few semesters of welding from an adult education class in a local high school, and the bit about butane lighters being dangerous is serious stuff. I dimly recall the story of a welder on the Canadian railroad who died when a bit of welding spark went through his shirt pocket and set off his lighter. Poor chap. Be well and physically distance yourself from the damn virus, (and those lighters!).
Trev beautiful job. The wagon is looking great.
From one Trevor to another Trevor, great work... ive been using ur tips and tricks to rebuild my no.3 of 150 MGF abingdon vvc. You are helping me save the car using all my own hands. Every corner and sill fabricated and welded better than new. Thanks so much.... T.
Another mine of information, janner! Love that old weight!
So nice to see true tradesmanship in this day and age, thanks!
Amazing work your doing making all these panels very nice work Trev.
Love ur work bro. Many years ago I use to work in the trade and worked with a body man that use to build AC cobras etc in Uk. So use to watch his work. Thank u.
I remember my dad trying to explain to me how to shrink high spots and it wasn't getting in. Maybe i'm a bit thick but the way you showed gave me hope. Thanks much, so interesting.
Great video ! It works great and easier than i thought . Had to relocate the tank filler spot on my bedford .welded the ring in for the fillercap .was al warped .thanks for the great video . greetings from Holland
Thanks so much for showing the shrinking process. I've tried many times to find this stuff for years. The hammer filing was also great. Great stuff.
Sir, you are a living God!
Thanks this video took me back to the old school.I appreciate you and your knowledge.i will definitely watch many more of your videos
You really explains very well without no fix, frestelsen Done, Thomas Sweden ❤️
Fuck auto translation, hahaha! 😁
So enjoyable to watch, i hate heatshrinking but it must be done most of the time. Great tips and tricks. Love the home made tools to. Thanks Trev.
Peter Goodwin Hey Thanks 🤩
@@trevsblog you are the best trev . So well explained . Sometimes this can drive you mad especially on a massive roof . Have a good weekend mate .
As always fantastic , I couldn’t. Help laughing.....the weld breaks and you knock yourself out with that slide hammer , I wouldn’t want it too happen but thanks for titalating my humour 🥳🥳
Great video 👍 hope all young beaters will find it very helpful like myself. You can't find those informations on the spotter datasheet 😂 Some people like you had to spend years to learn this the hardest way we have it on the plate. Hope will be much appreciated. Regards Mike
Thank you for the large puller idea. Have a large thin flat panel with no rear access and didn't want to spend on a spotter.
Like your work! I am in Australia and really find your videos most helpful. Cheers
dave coate Hey Thanks Dave. Cheers Trev 👍
I feel like this channel should have a lot more subscribers than it does
It will have
Thank You. You are an excellent teacher. I appreciate the time and effort to teach us mere mortals.
Great job, I am learning so much from you. Love the Outro music
A 13:00 you admit that shrinking went too far and is now a low spot. Then you find a new oilcan. This is where you use the hammer to bring the low spot up, hopefully pulling on the oilcan and eliminating it
Another great video, you explained the shrinking process really well, and your home made tools are fascinating. Thanks for another quality video.
Im finding new stuff to me Trev. This is great as usual. I love the clock and tin man you made. The vespa model is superb too. Thanks for what you do. Im going to look for your video where you use some copper. Cheers col
Ive fashiened a panel for the jacking point on my suzuki wagon R rear sill arch area using your advice and explanations. Thanks ever so much Trev
Another interesting post! I've used heat shrink to straighten shafts, after a weld repair, but just used a water or air quench. Love the homemade tools. Seems like the work is more fun when done with them. Thanks!
Brilliant mate. Simply brilliant!
Good video Trev that will help me a lot with my build, I have a high spot I have been trying and trying to get rid of I will try this now thanks mate
Neville Nevstoy Brilliant I one it works for you. Cheers Trev 👍
Very good demo on shrinking!
Subscribed, I've watched many video's of this type and Trev is by far the best. The tools are genius, I also make them as needed. Love the the slide hammer at the end,I made a clamp ended variation of this a while back to sandwich the weld on type dent puller studs which allowed me to move around on the dent and pull from all, center or either side as needed. Thanks for sharing your skills and knowledge!!
Trev you amaze me with the skills you have got Thanks a lot
Ah! I think I get the heat shrinking concept now! Thanks! Al in USA
Thanks. Brilliant again. A real pro. Love the homemade tool ideas.
another great video .. i better get on and try your tips on my mini van back doors and see if i can save them ..
Good tip for you when welding a pull bar [20:20] run a weld to panel first then weld bar on to weld so after work you do not damage panel when removing bar [often pit marks /holes ]
You sold me on the intro video Subbed
this is something that i tried a few years ago unsuccessfully. now i know that i was doing the hammering part wrong (i was using a dolly behind it and just stretching it further) so thank you for filling that gap in my knowledge.
You were doing it correctly,the idea is to heat up the metal to a small red spot and then with a hammer and dolly gently planish around the circumference of the red spot which has the effect that as the hammer hits where the dolly is it sqeeezes the metal into the red dot thereby shrinking the panel.I learnt how to do it in the 1960s as an apprentice panel beater.
your a master autoplateworker good video and never understand I my father when me said (making hot here make hot there) and Inot understand it and all this is for expancion an crimping wow Ive learn today a thing bye
I like you explanation Trev. Nice work.
Love your work bud👍👍
Awesome metal work. Good job
I like to use tig welder as my heat source its very very controlled with practice especially on stainless trim from the old cars
Hi Trev . Thanks for that great vid. Good to see you back on your project. Have really learnt something today , as when we have the odd panel that has been stretched due to a large quantity of holes , we have heated an area and rapidly cooled with water then dress out with panel hammer to flat. sometimes it works well sometimes not so . Will bear in mind your Vid . Keep it up .look forward to the next vid.Regards Don
Don Codman Don just bear in mind I only cool the panel in order to bring the whole repaired area back down to room temp before checking the repair, even the slightest bit of heat still remaining in the panel can make it warp. When using a flame always hit the heated area as soon as it is heated, then let it cool to check your repair. I’m planning on doing more heat shrinking videos in the future and will include lots of theory as well. Cheers Trev 👍
Hi Trev, just watched your interesting blog on heat shrinking a panel. As a plumber l noticed that you are holding the flame a bit to close to the metal. the hottest part of the flame is the tip of the dark blue cone, the flame is not so effective if the cone impinges on the metal. otherwise a good blog.
Amazing knowledge brother!!! Thanks for sharing!!! I Love your channel!👍🏼👍🏼
Very nice and intuitive video 👍 I’ve just done a sunroof delete on my old Porsche 911 using a blank which was English wheeled out to follow the correct contour. After trimming to size etc I followed up butt-welding (10” apart working one side to the other) to try and keep the heat distortion to a minimum but whilst the remaining original part of the roof skin has remained relatively distortion free, the wheeled panel has mushroomed up about 3mm 🙄. I have purchased one of those planishing discs from the US in 9” size but a little shy to use it yet... if you could do a video of using one correctly that would be fantastic as most of the ones on YT are of poor substance 😟 Oh and yes please for the aircooler/dryer you’ve made for you compressor as that would be very helpful to 🤗 Keep them vids coming, many of us viewers learn so many great techniques from you, it’s greatly appreciated 👍
Mark Shepherd Hi Mark, I’ve never used a shrinking disc, I’ve thought about it though 🤔 I actually use my welding torch or my spot welder I’ve converted into a shrinking machine. I’m saving up for a proper stud welder at the moment to do a follow up video for more advanced heat shrinking methods. Lots more stuff to come for sure. Cheers Trev 👍
I made my own shrinking disc from an old circular saw blade with the teeth cut off. *( safety note: cutting the teeth off by running the disc grinder against the running saw does work but can be painful!) I recessed the center hole with a ball peen hammer over the end of a pipe. It works. Trev, you do great work.
The Van of Theseus.
Amazing work!
Your channel is gold!!!
Thank you Trev, great video!
I like the fact you make your own tool's I had to do that to with many diffrent dolly shapes of metals for diffrent corners.
SNOOP U 2 Hey Thanks 🤩. Your comment is very much appreciated. Cheers Trev 👍
Thanks for that ,great instructions on how to.
That dryer sounds like a great idea.
Another great video mate. Many thanks.
Great video. I love making my own tools. 👍👍👍
One trick to do where the crack is still a small hole right at the end of the crack to stop it from going any farther then weld it all up I have seen cracks that were welded before crack again because it was not drilled to stop it ... It like a oil filter that has a dent don't use it the dent will crack from the changing if the motor. Same with the panel with the vibration of the car..
Other that that great job for the tools that you used..
Great vid, really helpful thanks ✨👍 I’m doing a epic resto on a 61 VW Splitscreen & kids had been jumping on the roof, so lots of panel beating
I'm wondering why a shrinking hammer wasn't used. I've chased enough oil can dents around, and around. A real pain for sure. Great vid. I'm just mesmerized with the physics of dents. You got to use light for this. it does actually drag around the dent. So cool..
k j Hey Thanks 🤩. Your comment is very much appreciated. Cheers Trev 👍
Hi Trev, nice video again, as usual :)
However it raised some questions that I would ask the teacher if I would stand next to him in the room. TH-cam is not the best medium for Q&A, but anyway...
You basically turned a highspot into a lowspot here, metal being stretched up in the beginning and being stretched down at the end of the job. Am I right that the end result still is a stretched area, only the other way up (down)? Did you hammer it a bit too hard then?
And then you state something interesting about a low spot being (relatively) easy to solve, versus a highspot being very annoying. But they basically are the same, or? Just flip the pannel and a highspot turns into a lowspot. How come you can bring up a low spot with hammer and dolly, but a hightspot not down? Where does my reasoning go wrong...?
I will purchase one of these stainless discs to be used on the disc-grinder to apply heat to highspots, one of these days. Did you ever work with those?
And what's you opinion on shrinking, only by cooling the hotspot down rapidly, without hammering?
th-cam.com/video/FGMUEXGiySA/w-d-xo.html and www.vocor.nl/krimpschijf-shrinking-disk/1847-krimpschijf-shrinking-disk-125mm.html
thx, cheers from Holland!
Dutch Classic Exhausts if someone asks this question they are truly asking a great question because it means that they are really trying to understand something that on the face of it seems straight forward. Most car panels are convex, if you have a high spot in a convex panel it means that it is stretched and needs to be shrunk normally by means of heat shrinking which is a harder operation compared to a low spot that needs stretching. I hope we’re agreed upon that. If you now flip the panel over, the panel is now concave and the reverse applies a high spot in a concave panel needs to be stretched not shrunk. If you shrink a high spot on a concave panel it becomes higher. If you ponder this for a while it answers many questions about the nature of high and low spots. The most controllable tool I have personally used for heat shrinking is my dent puller with the heat shrinking attachment. Cheers Trev 👍
@@trevsblog Thanks, Trev, I understand the nature of high and low spots better now. A low spot on a convex pannel is basically shrunk a bit: the metal takes a shorter road from A to B. That was my missing context.
My new tools will come in this week; I will give it a try and see what happens. I already found that the fenders of my Citroën U23 light truck are quite solid steel, 1,5 mm at least. Probably not the best to practice on. Maybe I should practice on my neighbors car first :)
cheers!
thats the way I leaned about 40 years ago. But sometimes I use a shrinking hammer
You need to be the next Dr.Who! Seriously you would be smashing.
A very helpful video. Many Thanks.
Thanks for all your interesting tips I'm already put it all to use
`My God!!! I'm absolutely in awe!!! Love your channel!!!
Nice 1 Trev! I got a ballache dent right at the balls end of my trials bike tank and that pick tool will do the job just nice.
theravedaddy Hey Thanks 🤩, your comment is very much appreciated. Cheers Trev 👍
Your videos are very informative would like to see you make a ute tailgate skin.
These are bloody excellent. Many thanks.
When dad did a shrink (oxy acet, so it was faster). He always held a dolly "around" the edge of the shrink as he tapped it. Then he moved the dolly gradually into the shrink to move the metal back to the profile. I was the kid inside the panel holding the dolly when he couldn't reach the spot.😉
The tool you hav made with the door hings ... i love you 😍
the worst thing that happens is when the damage transfers to a spot behind a support in the panel that you cannot get your hands behind to straighten. that is the worst luck. Had that happen many many times
Super informative. Well delivered. Subscribed. Thank you
Great stuff here! So many great tips and tricks. I'm sub'd now.
Hi Trev,
A boxing day treat for me catching up with one of your videos that I hadn't previously watched. I have some aluminium to shape over the coming weeks and wondered if the blow lamp method would work equally well on that metal?
Anyway, thank you so much for sharing your skills and enjoy the rest of your Christmas holiday.
Kind regards Paul from 48 Spokes 🎄🎅🎄🎅👍
Yes same principle applies to aluminium as with steel. Cheers Trev 👍