My 2011 F150 would not blow hot air when turned to hot. Followed this video and installed the new actuator with ease. I did not put the back screw back in just in case I ever need to replace the actuator again. Other than that screw, it was a piece of cake. Thanks for the video!
I just changed mine on my 2010 f150. 11-25-24. Mine wasn't making a clicking noise or anything. Just wasn't switching from hot to cold. Just replaced it. Couldn't get to that back screw so I broke the old actuator off took out the insides. Then I ratcheted it out after I broke all the plastic off. I did not put the back screw in when i replaced. Worked perfectly
I'm on my second blend door replacement, came to find a video to refresh my memory. Got to the end where you mentioned it was a $400-700 fix and my jaw dropped. Thanks for the refresher!
I'm about to tackle this problem this week once the part arrives. This video is one of the best on TH-cam to show how it all works. Feel 10 times more confident now after watching this. Thanks a ton for posting this and helping lots of men save lots of money.
Mine is clicking again and this will be the 3rd time to repair it. I pay 800 bucks both times with two different mechanics, but now seeing this video, I'm gonna do it myself. I live in Phoenix AZ so it is paramount this gets fixed asap..... gotta start on it at 5 am when it's cool. Thank you for your video!! I hope this is the time I am plagued with this issue!
Thanks for the vid. You saved me probably 500-700 bucks. You did not give a enough credit how difficult that last screw was. Got it done though and “doable,” just like you said. 🍻
Thank you champ! I paid 700 three years ago for this job and now the part has gone bad again. I was told that the dash had to be removed and that would take some time, this was the reason for the hefty price. I decided to check youtube for the perfect video and thanks to you this job will be free because I will be doing it myself. FYI on my way to throw a hand grenade inside of that mechanic shop that ripped me off. 🙏🙏🙏😑😑😑
I used a shortened open end wrench to get to the back screw. Tight fit but worked. I did have difficulty convincing sprocket on the actuator to line up with the hole sprocket/teeth. I turned the thermostat knob back and forth to get it to cooperate. After that, good as new.
Thank you for making this video. I was able to do the job in less than an hour, I am not mechanically inclined and I was able to replace the actuator with minor obstacles.
This video really helped me. I have a 2012 F150 XLT, I could not reach the back screw through the glove box, but was able to reach it with a low profile 1/4" ratchet. Not much clearance but it worked for me. I got my new part at O'Reilly auto parts. $35. AC and Heat working fine.
That is what ford says to do. There are multiple actuators. I did it and while I was at it I changed my evaporator core. Bad thing is 2 years later the clicking is back.
Dennis Haines - This video is spot on. Just replaced AC Blend Door Actuator for a 2012 F150 XLT. Got part from Ford (haven't had good luck from off brands, and, did not want to go back in). Only comment would be to see show how front panel came off (figured it out, but at first I thought there were extra bolts I missed). One quote was $1200. Thank You very much for the video:)
Thanks for the video I changed mine yesterday you give me an idea of how the job is going to be. I took the back screw through the top middle speaker with a long 1/4 inch extension and a U-Joint Socket Adapter.
I did this, sorta, but was able to get a flat ratchet and then a mini-socket on the back screw. Also an $8 panel removal kit really helped. It was done in 20 minutes. Being scrawny really helps.
I have a 2008 F150. First one stopped working under warranty. Second one, I couldn’t get to the back screw. My daughter (24yo) happened by and we had the part replaced and all screws in place in five minutes. Small hands make the job easy.
This was a great video. The glove box trick really helped. I read how this takes 4 hours - it took me 30 minutes with your video. looks like my truck has heat again yay! No clicking here just didnt have heat or ac just cool air XD. Take care!
Thanks for your comment. My 2011 didn't have passenger heat either but him mentioning the clicking noise made it seem as if it could have been another issue
@@mog_3825 They will click sometimes if the motor is still working but stripped out. Mine was totally dead. It's been a couple of weeks and all hvac functions still work it's great!
Success! Thanks. I used a 5/16" closed end wrench for the back screw. The one mistake I made was leaving the car running for some ac during the project. When I reached the right arm through the glove box to the actuator bolt. And I burned my fingers a couple times. Duh. The closed end wrench was tedious but made tangible progress unscrewing ... and replacing. Good Instructions. The replacement part should come with a custom wrench to hold the back bolt while turning. I found no rachet wrench that could fit i the vertical space. :-(
This is my 4th actuator in 3 years. And it always seems to break in the dead of winter. Mine was broken in the most peculiar way. Gonna try and actually fix it and save it for next winter lol. My back screw is completely missing so i only have the one in front! Easy but still goes out at the worst time
Be aware, mine(2014) was the blend door that can be accessed by the driver's side pedals. The clicking was emanating from there too. The mechanic called it the 'main one.' Total to have the shop fix it; around $100 👌🏻
That one isn’t bad to get at. My 2014 has three of them, the one you replaced, one by the gas pedal and the lower blend door actuator is the worst. It’s the one that the dealer wants $1000 to change. It’s buried and you have to get extremely creative to get it out. Of course it’s the one that had to go bad on mine. 😩
If my actuator is only clicking in cold seasons and my temperature blend works just fine in warm months - Would this likely be the actuator near the pedal assemply that controls vents? Im getting little to no air flow when clicking.
Hey thank you for the video, I have a 2011 f150 also, when it was under warranty the blend door actuator went out and fixed for free. Now it has gone out again, (making a clacking noise) funny though the sound appears to be coming from the immediate right side of the steering wheel. Maybe the sound traveling?
My hands where too big to fit. I unplugged it. Took out the front svrew. Popped the tabs off the part so the top cover came off. Grabbed the main drive gear with needle nose and lifted it out. I was then able to rotate the whole actuator around so I could easily get to the back screw.
Got a 2010 and i get a couple clicks...i can get heat and ac but the blower is blowing hard but not coming out the vents as hard as it should. Will this solve the problem ?
I know this is a stupid question but can you do a video on installing the lower driver side blend door actuator? I can't imagine you'd want to do it if yours is functioning but I had to ask.
I have the exact same problem with my air conditioner actuator makes the same noise. Went to dealers to pickup my wife’s car from service depart. And went ahead and bought the part since I was already there alot more expensive than Autozone. Motorcraft YH1933 part # DL3Z 19E616 A $65.57 out the door for the part. They told me to remove part and match with new one cause it is not refundable once package is one.
I have a 2010 f150 platinum, my problem is that I have the heat on and it only comes out on the driver side and cool air out of passenger side. I even tried turn the duel air on and off. I don't hear any strange noises
Is there any calibration of the door itself before you put the new motor on? Like do you need to turn it all the way left or all the way right before the motor goes on?
I had to calibrate my new actuator to fit in the designated spot. To calibrate, I had the old part and had to turn the truck off and on until it was in the correct position. I had to take fuse #46 out and plug it back in a few times. I have a 2011 Ford F-150. Once I got it in the right position it fit in the slot and I was able to put everything back together.
I put the Dorman from autozone in a 2012 F-150. It last 2 yrs and started becoming intermittent That lasted for 1 yr longer. Now it does not work. Did FORD change this stupid design on the newer F-150s?
Love how you said the back screw wasnt that vad but you dont showany of the work. Cant even get my fingers back there. Would love to see how you did it.
They charge 800 because of the back screw. I did mine in about a hour. I did not put the rear screw in. I would still be out there. It works fine. I didn't buy the oem part. Probably a mistake but it has lifetime warranty. But honestly I don't want to have to do that again.
You are mistaken about the cause. What causes this is the rubber seals that are on the blend door itself, when they get a little bit of age on them they get hard, and then this actuator is unable to move the blend door all the way to the end of its range, and it causes the teeth inside the servo to strip out. The only role the potentiometer is playing in this problem is that it is telling the motor that it has not reached the end of the range and so it continues to energize the motor but the transmission in the servo physically does not have enough girth to move the door, which is now sticky. The only way to effectively fix this problem is to completely remove the HVAC Plenum from under the dash, disassemble it and trim the seals on these doors so that they move more freely inside the Plenum. You can replace the servos all day long, and it is not going to fix the problem.
I can't understand the verbage of what you called the problem with the Actuator. Sounds something like Temperature something or another. Can you please reply with what you called it. This is my issue BIG TIME
Don't take it to a mechanic, well thats one way to keep us out of work, smh it's cool you changed it yourself next time you have a real issue with your vehicle remember don't take it to a mechanic take it to this clown, he can do it in 30 minutes
@@kurtisdesautels1605 someone is bitter for sure. Let’s not tell him about the electric power steering belt issue to make that 2k job ford wants to replace the entire steering rack into $50 belt online and maybe an hour.
My 2011 F150 would not blow hot air when turned to hot. Followed this video and installed the new actuator with ease. I did not put the back screw back in just in case I ever need to replace the actuator again. Other than that screw, it was a piece of cake. Thanks for the video!
I just changed mine on my 2010 f150. 11-25-24. Mine wasn't making a clicking noise or anything. Just wasn't switching from hot to cold. Just replaced it. Couldn't get to that back screw so I broke the old actuator off took out the insides. Then I ratcheted it out after I broke all the plastic off. I did not put the back screw in when i replaced. Worked perfectly
I have 2010 F150 with this too issues, clicking noise and wasn’t switching to heat, hopefully that will work
@leezy7985 it should. Just a pain to reach that back screw
I replaced mine and didn't reinstall the back screw either and so far a year later all is still good.
I'm on my second blend door replacement, came to find a video to refresh my memory. Got to the end where you mentioned it was a $400-700 fix and my jaw dropped. Thanks for the refresher!
Thanks bro! Got quoted $1300 😂
Got the part for $25 & fixed in an hour. 🙏🏼🤙🏼
I'm about to tackle this problem this week once the part arrives. This video is one of the best on TH-cam to show how it all works. Feel 10 times more confident now after watching this. Thanks a ton for posting this and helping lots of men save lots of money.
Mine is clicking again and this will be the 3rd time to repair it. I pay 800 bucks both times with two different mechanics, but now seeing this video, I'm gonna do it myself. I live in Phoenix AZ so it is paramount this gets fixed asap..... gotta start on it at 5 am when it's cool. Thank you for your video!! I hope this is the time I am plagued with this issue!
Thanks for the vid. You saved me probably 500-700 bucks. You did not give a enough credit how difficult that last screw was. Got it done though and “doable,” just like you said. 🍻
I have same problem after replacing my battery at the dealer.
I’m feeling confident to do this by myself thanks to your video.
Again, thank you!
Thanks Harley, those were easy steps to follow. It took me about 2.5 hours. So glad it is working!
Nice to know mine makes noise for a couple seconds but it works. I’m gonna wait it out thx for the video.
Thank you champ! I paid 700 three years ago for this job and now the part has gone bad again. I was told that the dash had to be removed and that would take some time, this was the reason for the hefty price. I decided to check youtube for the perfect video and thanks to you this job will be free because I will be doing it myself. FYI on my way to throw a hand grenade inside of that mechanic shop that ripped me off. 🙏🙏🙏😑😑😑
We do not recommend the grenade but we are happy you saved money!
I used a shortened open end wrench to get to the back screw. Tight fit but worked. I did have difficulty convincing sprocket on the actuator to line up with the hole sprocket/teeth. I turned the thermostat knob back and forth to get it to cooperate. After that, good as new.
Thank you for making this video. I was able to do the job in less than an hour, I am not mechanically inclined and I was able to replace the actuator with minor obstacles.
This video really helped me. I have a 2012 F150 XLT, I could not reach the back screw through the glove box, but was able to reach it with a low profile 1/4" ratchet. Not much clearance but it worked for me. I got my new part at O'Reilly auto parts. $35. AC and Heat working fine.
got told by my local mechanic that you gotta pull the whole dash and steering wheel and made it seem so bad, glad I looked here first.
🧢
That is what ford says to do. There are multiple actuators. I did it and while I was at it I changed my evaporator core. Bad thing is 2 years later the clicking is back.
Dennis Haines - This video is spot on. Just replaced AC Blend Door Actuator for a 2012 F150 XLT. Got part from Ford (haven't had good luck from off brands, and, did not want to go back in). Only comment would be to see show how front panel came off (figured it out, but at first I thought there were extra bolts I missed). One quote was $1200. Thank You very much for the video:)
Just changed it out today my heat works great now thank you 🙏🏾
Best video for this project. I had to remove the lower storage panel because the small panel wouldn't come out.
Just got finished doing this job today on my 2011 Fx4…wasn’t too bad…just be patient!!!!
Thanks for the video I changed mine yesterday you give me an idea of how the job is going to be. I took the back screw through the top middle speaker with a long 1/4 inch extension and a U-Joint Socket Adapter.
I have shallow universal sockets that might come in handy for this job
I did this, sorta, but was able to get a flat ratchet and then a mini-socket on the back screw.
Also an $8 panel removal kit really helped.
It was done in 20 minutes.
Being scrawny really helps.
I have a 2008 F150. First one stopped working under warranty. Second one, I couldn’t get to the back screw. My daughter (24yo) happened by and we had the part replaced and all screws in place in five minutes. Small hands make the job easy.
This was a great video. The glove box trick really helped. I read how this takes 4 hours - it took me 30 minutes with your video. looks like my truck has heat again yay!
No clicking here just didnt have heat or ac just cool air XD. Take care!
Thanks for your comment. My 2011 didn't have passenger heat either but him mentioning the clicking noise made it seem as if it could have been another issue
@@mog_3825 They will click sometimes if the motor is still working but stripped out. Mine was totally dead. It's been a couple of weeks and all hvac functions still work it's great!
I didn’t have clicking either just groaning and creaking, wondering if this is still my issue or if it is something else
Success! Thanks.
I used a 5/16" closed end wrench for the back screw. The one mistake I made was leaving the car running for some ac during the project. When I reached the right arm through the glove box to the actuator bolt. And I burned my fingers a couple times. Duh.
The closed end wrench was tedious but made tangible progress unscrewing ... and replacing.
Good Instructions.
The replacement part should come with a custom wrench to hold the back bolt while turning. I found no rachet wrench that could fit i the vertical space. :-(
This is my 4th actuator in 3 years. And it always seems to break in the dead of winter. Mine was broken in the most peculiar way. Gonna try and actually fix it and save it for next winter lol. My back screw is completely missing so i only have the one in front! Easy but still goes out at the worst time
Ford or aftermarket?
Be aware, mine(2014) was the blend door that can be accessed by the driver's side pedals. The clicking was emanating from there too. The mechanic called it the 'main one.' Total to have the shop fix it; around $100 👌🏻
Mine 2012 aftwe 9 years of owning it finally wcrapped out. Will be changing it soon. Update soon
How’d it go?
Thanks! Just did this today. Saved a lot in labor
Thanks for the video great job! Will be fixing mine this week. Thanks for saving me some money!
That one isn’t bad to get at. My 2014 has three of them, the one you replaced, one by the gas pedal and the lower blend door actuator is the worst. It’s the one that the dealer wants $1000 to change. It’s buried and you have to get extremely creative to get it out. Of course it’s the one that had to go bad on mine. 😩
Great video, although getting the back bolt is a bit harder than you make it seem. Didn’t replace the back bolt and have 0 problems.
got quoted $850 thanks man
That back screw is no fun. I did get it out and I now have AC again. Thanks so much for the video 🙏🙏🙏
Thanks for this video, it helped me have the confidence to do it my self and saved lots of money.
Worked like a charm. Thanks for the excellent video
Great video! Thanks man! This is on my weekend list coming up!
Hey bud if you take out air bag (3bolts) you can see back bolts. It helps a little
If my actuator is only clicking in cold seasons and my temperature blend works just fine in warm months - Would this likely be the actuator near the pedal assemply that controls vents? Im getting little to no air flow when clicking.
Hey thank you for the video, I have a 2011 f150 also, when it was under warranty the blend door actuator went out and fixed for free.
Now it has gone out again, (making a clacking noise) funny though the sound appears to be coming from the immediate right side of the steering wheel. Maybe the sound traveling?
My hands where too big to fit. I unplugged it. Took out the front svrew. Popped the tabs off the part so the top cover came off. Grabbed the main drive gear with needle nose and lifted it out. I was then able to rotate the whole actuator around so I could easily get to the back screw.
Got a 2010 and i get a couple clicks...i can get heat and ac but the blower is blowing hard but not coming out the vents as hard as it should. Will this solve the problem ?
Thank ya, thank ya! My right hand is tore up, but I got it replaced 😂
Hi, I hope you doing well, just tell you only your video was pretty help after see a lot videos, God bless you.
I know this is a stupid question but can you do a video on installing the lower driver side blend door actuator? I can't imagine you'd want to do it if yours is functioning but I had to ask.
I have the exact same problem with my air conditioner actuator makes the same noise. Went to dealers to pickup my wife’s car from service depart. And went ahead and bought the part since I was already there alot more expensive than Autozone. Motorcraft YH1933 part # DL3Z 19E616 A $65.57 out the door for the part. They told me to remove part and match with new one cause it is not refundable once package is one.
Bro doing this in bare feet probably eating a snack while picking his nose gotta give it to this guy 🙏🏾
Man I have make a lot research because I put new actuator and keep making the clicking all the time, don’t know what could be. Any help please.?
Best video, just ordered my part
I don’t have the clicking and the a/c works but it has a mind of its own. Hot one minute cold the next. Would this be a faulty actuator?
Thank you! This is exactly my problem.
Everyone doing this should get a GENUINE MOTORCRAFT replacement from a dealer and NOT a cheap fake from Amazon or Ebay.
Too late, will let you know how long it lasts😬
Do you have to align the sprocket on the new one to match the existing one or does it not matter ?
Mine doesn’t make a clicking noise but doesn’t blow hot. Still the door?
The trim panels to the left and right of the radio should be loosened also starting at the bottom.
Best video ever! Thank you!
Do you have one for the driver side ?
Thank you! I’ve done this and I’ve stopped the ticking, but it only blows hot air now. Anyone else have this issue or know how to fix?
I have a 2010 f150 platinum, my problem is that I have the heat on and it only comes out on the driver side and cool air out of passenger side. I even tried turn the duel air on and off. I don't hear any strange noises
Same issue here 11 Raptor dual climate control. Passenger blows cold only. never heat. No clicking. IS this the right actuator?
@@225TTuned i think so. I haven't gotten mine fixed yet
Had my 2011 for 5 years about to do my 3rd replacement 🤦🏻♂️ at least I’ve left the rear bolt out 🤣
Will this help me if my heater not blowing hot air
I don't think so.
Is there any calibration of the door itself before you put the new motor on? Like do you need to turn it all the way left or all the way right before the motor goes on?
No, the actuator only fits back into the door one way. It will position itself where it needs to be.
@@talkingsmallpodcast ok awesome. Thank you
I had to calibrate my new actuator to fit in the designated spot. To calibrate, I had the old part and had to turn the truck off and on until it was in the correct position.
I had to take fuse #46 out and plug it back in a few times. I have a 2011 Ford F-150.
Once I got it in the right position it fit in the slot and I was able to put everything back together.
For me, I put the new actuator in turned the body of it till the screw holes lined up.
Awesome vid man very informative
Thanks for the video bro!
Mine sounds like it’s on the driver’s side,constantly clicking,only spits out hot air i got a 2012 ford f150
I put the Dorman from autozone in a 2012 F-150. It last 2 yrs and started becoming intermittent
That lasted for 1 yr longer. Now it does not work.
Did FORD change this stupid design on the newer F-150s?
Looks to me you can get to that back screw with a 1/4 ratchet and 5/16 shallow socket from the front without going through the glovebox
Mine doesn’t click but creaks and groans can anyone tell me if it is still a shitty actuator?
Great video that will help me
It's amazing that a mechanic will charge $400-$1,500 for that cheap part and maybe an hour, 2 max of labor
I got lucky. The factory left my back screw off. I bought the truck new so I know nobody had messed with it in the past.
Love how you said the back screw wasnt that vad but you dont showany of the work. Cant even get my fingers back there. Would love to see how you did it.
My Actuator clicks even when my truck is off and key not in the ignition
They charge 800 because of the back screw. I did mine in about a hour. I did not put the rear screw in. I would still be out there. It works fine. I didn't buy the oem part. Probably a mistake but it has lifetime warranty. But honestly I don't want to have to do that again.
Thanks for the help!
Hi brother Ford expedition 2006 same this
Thanks for video
Bout to be replacing my 3Rd one on my 2011 lariat
I have a socket wrench that will get to that back screw without removing the glove box
Thanks for the video
Get the OEM from motorcraft I’m on my 3rd one in 5 years finally spent 40$ on the OEM
Great video
Someone helps? I changed and keep knocking….
Cheers
i reeplace that part but still dont work
If its your lower actuator watch this NOPE you dont have to do any of that! WATCH THIS: watch (F150 Easy no dash removal solution.)
my hand is too big to fit through the glove box😭
You are mistaken about the cause. What causes this is the rubber seals that are on the blend door itself, when they get a little bit of age on them they get hard, and then this actuator is unable to move the blend door all the way to the end of its range, and it causes the teeth inside the servo to strip out. The only role the potentiometer is playing in this problem is that it is telling the motor that it has not reached the end of the range and so it continues to energize the motor but the transmission in the servo physically does not have enough girth to move the door, which is now sticky. The only way to effectively fix this problem is to completely remove the HVAC Plenum from under the dash, disassemble it and trim the seals on these doors so that they move more freely inside the Plenum. You can replace the servos all day long, and it is not going to fix the problem.
I can't understand the verbage of what you called the problem with the Actuator. Sounds something like Temperature something or another. Can you please reply with what you called it. This is my issue BIG TIME
Just had it done mechanic charged 200 to replace
The video is great BUT please do not buy the dorman part!! I changed mine 9 months ago and it has failed again! Please buy motorcraft!
Back screw not too bad to get to? Why you lie so bad?
Don't buy a dorman. They're junk.
Terrible video. Any of the hard stuff is done off camera. Can't even see the back screw.
It’s blender, not blend door. Just for your future man tips.
no details in procedure, which makes it worthless. not helpful.
Don't take it to a mechanic, well thats one way to keep us out of work, smh it's cool you changed it yourself next time you have a real issue with your vehicle remember don't take it to a mechanic take it to this clown, he can do it in 30 minutes
Hahahahaha get a load of this guy.
@@kurtisdesautels1605 someone is bitter for sure. Let’s not tell him about the electric power steering belt issue to make that 2k job ford wants to replace the entire steering rack into $50 belt online and maybe an hour.
My ac was working and has been doing the noise for a year almost lol and it stopped blowing the cold air could this be the reason? Or Freon?