Great video, excellent tip on making homemade tool. I gladly sacrificed a 5/16" impact driver socket, cut its stem off shorter, wrapped the stem in teflon tap to help hold in place, and drove it with rachet end wrench. Your tip made this job sooo much easier.
Treat video; however, I have a 2010 F150 Lariet and the space between the actuator and the metal bracket was significantly less, like 1/4" . The smallest micro socket I had couldn't even fit in there. My solution was to use a 1" putty knife that I heated up with a torch to cut apart the old unit to access the rear screw with a racheting boxwrench. I installed the new unit with only the front fastner.
U r the best...you saved me so much time. I Pulled the console because of another post. 🎉Like yours it's not necessary. Wish I has saw your post first. One thing I might add. Instead of fighting the 2nd bolt..pry the actuator top off, it is useless now or you wouldn't be replacing it. It makes getting the 2nd fastener out easier
Thank you for the video. I found if I reached my right hand through the glove box opening with a ratchet and left hand through the radio opening to steady and align things I didn't need a special tool to get at that back screw, just small ratchet. If you consider a very small rachet not a special tool anyways :p Thanks again for the video!
That example sure was helpful and saved me $money. I do support 1A Auto. Where I buy my parts. Keep up the videos and I'll continue to order through 1A Auto 👍I did go through the glove box with a 8mm small wrench. A bit more time but worth the savings$
My hands where too big to fit. I unplugged it. Took out the front svrew. Popped the tabs off the part so the top cover came off. Grabbed the main drive gear with needle nose and lifted it out. I was then able to rotate the whole actuator around so I could easily get to the back screw.
I have installed a new actuator twice but the part that the piece plugs in to (the little dial that was white on the stock actuator but black on the new one you installed) will not allow it to twist. It is stuck. What should I do?
My issue was I had no heat anywhere, but I don't have dual air, just singular. I changed the actuator, but now it only blows hot air even with the a/c on full. What is going on?
+@cookingwiththehiatts5225 We wouldn't be able to diagnose an issue like that here, you may want to have a local mechanic take a look at it. Thanks for checking us out! 1aau.to/m/Shop-1AAuto-c
I’ve replaced mine 2x and it usually works great for awhile, but now back to not working properly. I’m hoping I’ve aligned everything ok… new motor goes in east enough and seems to be lined up… but fails again after a few months. What am I doing wrong?!
+SteVenS We wouldn't be able to diagnose an issue like that here, you may want to have a local mechanic take a look at it. Thanks for checking us out! 1aau.to/m/Shop-1AAuto-c
√ Watch the Video
√ Buy The Part at 1A Auto 1aau.to/m/Shop-TRQ-Parts
√ Do it Yourself
√ Save Money
Great video, excellent tip on making homemade tool. I gladly sacrificed a 5/16" impact driver socket, cut its stem off shorter, wrapped the stem in teflon tap to help hold in place, and drove it with rachet end wrench. Your tip made this job sooo much easier.
This is by far the best video on how to replace that actuator. All the over vids dont even come close!!!
+@sabbo68 Thank you! We love empowering our customers and showing how to perform DIY auto repairs with our high-quality auto parts. 1aau.to/m/Shop-TRQ
Treat video; however, I have a 2010 F150 Lariet and the space between the actuator and the metal bracket was significantly less, like 1/4" . The smallest micro socket I had couldn't even fit in there. My solution was to use a 1" putty knife that I heated up with a torch to cut apart the old unit to access the rear screw with a racheting boxwrench. I installed the new unit with only the front fastner.
Thanks for the tutorial.
Step by step swapped out my 2011 F150 platinum.
U r the best...you saved me so much time. I Pulled the console because of another post. 🎉Like yours it's not necessary. Wish I has saw your post first. One thing I might add. Instead of fighting the 2nd bolt..pry the actuator top off, it is useless now or you wouldn't be replacing it. It makes getting the 2nd fastener out easier
So this would fix the issue of the heat NOT being blown on the DRIVERS side? That is mys issue...thanks
Great video and explanation. I was able to unscrew the back bolt with a 5/16 wrench going through the glove box.
Thank you for the video. I found if I reached my right hand through the glove box opening with a ratchet and left hand through the radio opening to steady and align things I didn't need a special tool to get at that back screw, just small ratchet. If you consider a very small rachet not a special tool anyways :p Thanks again for the video!
Thanks saved me money I couldn’t pay a dealer to fix! 😊
This stopped the clicking, but the hot and cold air still aren’t functioning correctly. Anyone have any tips on why that might be?
That example sure was helpful and saved me $money. I do support 1A Auto. Where I buy my parts. Keep up the videos and I'll continue to order through 1A Auto 👍I did go through the glove box with a 8mm small wrench. A bit more time but worth the savings$
I replaced mine and its still clicking.
My hands where too big to fit. I unplugged it. Took out the front svrew. Popped the tabs off the part so the top cover came off. Grabbed the main drive gear with needle nose and lifted it out. I was then able to rotate the whole actuator around so I could easily get to the back screw.
How did you make that tool to get the back screw off??
I have a 2012 with dual climate control. My driver side actuator doesn't work. Are you saying that I have to remove the dash to access it?
Awesome job thanks for the insight 😊.
Replaced approximately 8 months ago, unfortunately used a doorman unit. Just had to replace again. This time went with motorcraft.
How do program actutator though
Awesome video!! Thanks so much!
I have installed a new actuator twice but the part that the piece plugs in to (the little dial that was white on the stock actuator but black on the new one you installed) will not allow it to twist. It is stuck. What should I do?
I just replaced mine and still clicking…. Could this be an issue with the female end on the actual blend door? Is there a fix for that?
My issue was I had no heat anywhere, but I don't have dual air, just singular. I changed the actuator, but now it only blows hot air even with the a/c on full. What is going on?
+@cookingwiththehiatts5225 We wouldn't be able to diagnose an issue like that here, you may want to have a local mechanic take a look at it. Thanks for checking us out! 1aau.to/m/Shop-1AAuto-c
Thank you!
Where you get the kind of tool
So this would be a good time to put a new stereo in?? 😆😆
How hard or easy to make that socket????
AND WHAT ABOUT THE FEMALE END COULD IT BE DAMAGED AS WELL???
I’ve replaced mine 2x and it usually works great for awhile, but now back to not working properly. I’m hoping I’ve aligned everything ok… new motor goes in east enough and seems to be lined up… but fails again after a few months. What am I doing wrong?!
+SteVenS We wouldn't be able to diagnose an issue like that here, you may want to have a local mechanic take a look at it. Thanks for checking us out! 1aau.to/m/Shop-1AAuto-c
If you use a Craftsman 1/4" ratchet and cut 1/4" off of a 8mm socket it makes it a less than 5 minute job.
WHERE ARE THE PIECES THAT BROKE OFF IN THERE? NEED TO VACUUM IT OUT???
Ya vali me tocó quitar el actuador del lado del pasajero
Leave the back bolt out, you'll be back to replace that worthless shit in a year.
Input a New one keep knocking