Can't say enough thanks to you. Both of my exact actuators also went out at the same time. Used your video as a guide and worked flawlessly. You saved me a TON of money. God bless you!
Blend door actuator switches between heat and air only and is located mid dash behind the entertainment system. MODE door operates the vents only and is located above the acceleratetor.
have a 2014 and could not get the top bolt so i broke off the actuator (above brake) and removed it that way. use a 1/4 inch drive with a 5/16th socket to remove the screw, it worked to get it back in also. Great help thanks for the info. and yes you have to move the vent door to get the splines to line up.
Thanks for the video, you just saved me a ton of time locating the actuator on the driver side. To make the job much easier i removed the three bolts holding the gas pedal to the firewall and moved the pedal aside. It made removing the actuator bolts way easier.
Great video! I found your video after I “discovered” the driver’s side motor while installing an aftermarket radio. While I was installing and running the microphone cable under the dash I saw the blend door actuator and thought no way! Other videos required cutting the air duct and carpet to replace the passenger side motor which I thought was the issue but after replacing the driver’s side the annoying clicking is gone after a year and a half! Wish I found your video earlier but I’m sure someone else will find it helpful!
Thanks. My 2011 just started clicking today and I needed the info you provided. I too will save the unbelievable overpriced job and do it myself. My 57 year old body will be sore afterwards but I will live to spend my $1500 on something else. Thanks
Thank you. With this video I was able to identify the problem, go to three stores to find the part, and fix it myself in two hours for twenty seven bucks. The unit was clicking for years if it was set to either extreme so I would have to back it off. Now I am kind of glad it finally gave out because it can go full cold or full hot with the replacement part. Mine is a 2009 so it may be a little different but the back bolt on the blend motor was almost impossible to get a wrench on. No clearance for a socket and too tight for a socket wrench. I had to use a regular wrench and almost needed to hire someone with smaller hands and more patience.
2009 F150: in my truck, everything was simple & identical to the video until the *very last step* to remove the actuator motor. Within 15 minutes I tore the dash apart and wrenched the *front* bolt out of the actuator. The *rear* bolt was very difficult in my truck... A socket wrench does not fit in any way. The entire air box assembly seems to sit about one inch higher than is shown here. I needed a friend to pry bar the air box down about a half inch, then I reached thru the glovebox with a short open-end wrench. After figuring this solution, it took about a minute to remove the rear bolt. Took about an hour in total for me because the air box shape/size/location must vary in some trucks, plus I needed extra hands.
Yes this is true and sounds like good tips. I just did this same job on a high mileage expedition project along with many other things I will be posting videos on.
Thank for the video! I don't know how much you saved me in $$, but most of all you gave the confidence I could do the job. Mechanics is not new to me, but I detest (read "fear") pulling trim. Overall, cost me $25.00 and about 3 hours - including traveling round trip to get the part. BTW - I have a 2013 F150 XLT Super Crew 4x4. The part for mine from AutoZone was DURALAST BDAC1014 604-252. Fit right in!
Thank you for this video! My dealer told me it would be $1700 to replace both blend door motors. Thanks for the trouble you went through to make this video and share it with us!!
Thank you! watched all the other videos and tore out my radio and airbag just to realize it was the one under the driver side. Highly recommend a 5/16 ratchet wrench.
Hi friend, my Ford has one under the pedal. I have the problem that it doesn't blow hot air. Do you think that could be the problem? Or does it also have one behind the radio?
It doesn't make any noise if air comes out and the cold air works but the hot air doesn't work, so my question is if you have another one behind the radio?
Great Video. I repair cars and trucks for a living. I also own a 2014 F 150 Lariat. For what it's worth, I also learned years ago...it's best not to ever make any changes in mode, or temp, etc...while the blower is on high, or even med speed. it resembles a hurricane going through your house....and all the doors are slamming open and shut. (things will tend to break) again...great video. Looking forward to more.
You have no idea how helpful this is! Thanks you!! My truck battery, and the exact same two a/c control motors went out today at the same time and it's been 102 almost the entire week. You've saved me tons of time with this vid. Thanks!
Thanks, this is a great walk-through video. I have a 2011 F150 XLT (Manual climate control air system) and I hear the click-click-click as I turn on the AC. Thanks.
Excellent job I was just sitting eating lunch and decided to turn the air conditioner on because the truck felt like a greenhouse. And all of a sudden click click click click click from the left side of the upper dash so I guess that's the one that's breaking. And yes I will replace both of them. Do they have the same part number on both motors?
Thanks for putting this together, but the video was so dark I couldn't make out most of the parts in place to figure out if I want to have a go at this myself. Appreciate the effort!
This last month has been heavy on the maintenace items like tires, spark plugs, blend door and other A/C motors needing replacement. So here is the cheap way to fix the clicking F150 air conditioner with simple hand tools and no $1500 dealer bill. Parts cost was ~$100 for both motors.
Hey thanks for the vid. I only had to replace the one on the drivers side. Three 13mm bolt hold the gas pedal on. Remove them and there’s room to work. Two 8mm screws hold the actuator on.
Thanks for posting this video, I recently bought a used truck a month ago in April. Couple weeks went by, now I hear that clicking sound, ac cold air isn’t working and summer is coming up. I’m no mechanic but looking at this video. I just don’t know, how much were the blender doors cost?
I've seen other videos and from my experience you dont have to remove the instrument cluster trim or the airbag - you can flex the parts enough to get the radio out.
While you are in there, you may as well attach a micro USB to USB cable to the radio back so you can have your USB 2 access. I put my cable in the glove box with a flash drive full of music in USB 2 and frees up my USB for connecting other items. You can also access the port through the top of the dash board, under the tray by removing the ribbed pad and removing a couple screws.
That is a fantastic idea. I am also wanting to install the factory remote start option that comes with another key and (I think) installs in the same area.
Nothing was more frustrating than replacing the actuator behind the radio, then still hearing clicking. After spending hours trying to locate the lower actuator, I gave up and have been hearing the clicking for 2 years now. Now that you showed us where the other actuator is located, I'm going to try again. But as I'm a big man, I may remove the seat to give my a little room and hopefully won't have to contort as much. Do Both actuators have the same part number? Thank you! I know first hand how difficult it was to do the work, then document with a camera.
Your video helped me find my problem and fix it. I really would have liked to know how you took the back screw on the blend motor out, and how you put it back. I just could not. No room and no view of it. I did not put mine back screw back...
I used a 1/4” ratchet with a 9/32” socket. My left hand went through the front & the right through the glove box. It was VERY tedious but I got it done. Had to start it by hand though
I did it carefully like Steven described below. I just did this job on a 2010 expedition that has a bunch of videos coming soon. I couldn't use any of these tricks and ended up losing the back screw.
I have a 2011 f150 xlt crew cab and my symptom was just that there was no longer heated air coming out the vents, just ambient or cold air. I’ve never heard any clicking sounds but I presume this may still be my issue.
Mine is a 2009 f150 platinum series with similar problems. Passenger side AC ok, but driver's side, nothing but hot air comes out. Haven't checked air to windshield, but I'm assuming simply replacing both motors will solve everything? What about doors that durect airstream demands?
This fixes the ac got my from hot to cold ? Or does it help push air from the front vents ? My 2014 f150 blowing air from the doors and under the seats but the dash vents don’t get no air
This is a likely culprit. If your compressor is kicking on and off as it should when you have it to full AC, this should be where your problem is located. As a matter of fact, I have to do this same replacement in my expedition which is a 2010, so I will be making a video on that one again.
Hello Nick . So my A/c in my 2013 F150 does not blow like it should. I think it is the blend door motor that u replaced in your video. But what it confusing me is that it seems like it works fine when the outside temperature is under 80 degrees . (Of course when I don’t need it) as soon as the temp goes over 80 it barely blows but i can hear the fan going . Thanks for your help!!!!
Thank you for making this video, it’s helped me so much. I have an issue though, I have a Ford F-150 and it’s having the same problem. Back in winter, I had to take it to the mechanic to fix the heat. Now in summer, the a/c doesn’t work. Which motor would I need to change?
Hello! thanks for the full video instruction, I have just a cold air from deflectors on 2010 f-150, is this steper-motor switch from cold to -warm air? an As I am understand there is 3-types of this motors?
Yes this is the replacement for the cold/warm blend door. The current revised part number is the YH-1933 and don't pay dealer prices for the part. The other 2 motors are also the same type of stepper motor with the forged rice noodle gears. One controls the vent/defrost/floor which I replaced toward the end of the video and the third is the heater door/recirculator motor.
Hey there great video. Maybe you can help me too.. on my Ford everything looks fine the cold air and the warm air blows fine and also the air blows from which vent I want. The only problem I have is when I turn it off or when its already turned off it blows (slowly) hot air on my windshield and cause it to fog. And before anyone suggest the inner air circulation is turned on. Please help!!
That sounds like it could be the third motor which is mounted somewhere closer to the blower motor. I don't remember what it is called, but it has the job of opening and closing the door from the heater core. That motor could be responsible if its not closing that door. That could cause the warm air to rise through the dash vents. That would be my best guess.
Octavio Gomez thanks for your help. I bought it second hand so i Really don't know but what it has to do one with the other? I can both see and feel the hot condense air coming out of the upper vent...
I've replaced the actuator 3 times in the past year because they keep failing. Any thoughts on what causes that? Mine is the one on top of the air box.
I just had to re-replace the one in my Expedition from the same year range. I know what the problem is, but I haven't nailed down a solution yet. Think 3D printer and exotic materials...So I do have some things in the works but nothing I have been able to actually test yet. TLDR version is the nylon gears are resilient to being stripped out but can't hold the required torque. So the main gear needs replaced with a better material where it fails. I have so many videos to edit and post, its silly. So stay tuned and I will link the follow up video to this one.
Does anyone know what part is activated in a 2014 f150 by just opening the door, causing a behind the dash kicking noise no key in or on. Any part of the heating cooling system activated by either door being opened?
Hey I have a 2012 F150 Platinum ecoboost the air conditioning works fine on both side, but the heat only comes out on the passenger side….all the the controls are electric…will this video work with it…I was told it was the Lower actuator that was causing the problem….and around 1000.00 to fix at a dealer….my truck only has 44,000 on it which seems kinda early to be having this problem…I’m a female and don’t really thing I can do this plus I’m covered up with medical bills and can’t really afford for Ford to do it, but I will try…thanks for the video
At $1000, I can buy 40 of these motors to fix trucks. The motors are about $25-30 depending on your preferred vendor. I just paid $23 for one for my wife's Taurus. I do not have the dual zone climate control in mine, but you can enter the vin of your truck in fordparts.com and search air conditioning motor. The motors are all located in the same area for all these F150's. And for what its worth, my truck is an '11 xlt and I have 55k miles on mine. I know the bills game with medical. My surgery a while back was awful! Its like surgery costs $10k per minute these days. I would encourage you to be willing to try this. The worst thing you can do is have to take it back apart and put it together a couple times until it works right. There is no wiring to mess up, just some screws that are hidden and maybe some plastic tabs to break. The ford service procedure for this is something like 4 service hours. If your hands can turn a small 1/4 inch drive ratchet, you can definitely do it yourself and save $975. :)
Well on my dad's 13 f150 the fresh air/inside air door broke and the splined piece that goes on the motor fell into the blower and caused it to vibrate. All I did was take the blower out to remove the broken piece but now it's just fresh air all the time.
I have 2013 f150. I hear clicking sound behind the radio. But only a few minutes clicking and the sound go away. After few minutes later, the clicking sound came again. Heat and cool work fine. Control working fine too. After i watched a few video from TH-cam, i took blander motor out the one behind the radio. I open the door, i still hear clicking sound without blander motor on. What could be?
This sounds like that could be the 3rd motor down closer to the blower motor in the passenger footwell area. Or it is possible that one of the new motors has failed following install. It is hard to tell without actually seeing/hearing in person. One thing you can do is hold a screwdriver or socket extension contacting the motor and listen to the other end close to your ear to see if it has failed. Or you can unplug each one individually and see if the clicking stops. The gears in these motors are super weak and break easily. But all manufacturers are using parts like these that fail out of warranty because they want to sell new cars not lasting durable ones.
Hello, which motor did you replace to fix the issue of where the air is blowing? My 2011 Ford F-150 isn't having issues with the heat but no matter where I want the air to blow it seems like that's the motor that's not working. Thanks for your help
So did the same job exactly how the video said. Don't have any issues with air blowing or vents, defrost or any other setting, but as soon as I turn the key on I STILL GET like 4 or 5 clicks before it works? It sounds like the one right behind the stereo? ANY HELP with why it keeps doing this would be great!!!
That is odd. It sounds like the replacement motor may have stripped out some teeth or been defective? There are 3 of these motors total, with the third down by the blower motor. Perhaps that one failed? Hard to tell through the internet.
What’s weird with mine I changed it and it blows cold air now all around in my truck. But it still knocks like 5x and then it’s fine. Why is that anyone know
my Grandson pushed a scented vent clip in the vent that caused my actuator to start clicking and now it is stuck on heat any help on removing this before I replace the actuator..
Great video brother! I replaced the one behind the radio and it still clicks on the driver side. I think you're the only one providing help on the driver side actuator. To the point, is it the same actuator: part # YH-1933?
Like Rob commented it is the YH1881 by the gas pedal. Those gears are made of the finest forged rice noodles so they break at the first chance. But this is common to all manufactured vehicles. This isn't just ford.
Hi I've got an f150 2013, when AC is on full power it blows out a good airflow from the vents, when I select max and or recycle the motor increases speed but the amount of air coming from the vents is reduced significantly. Do you have any idea what part may be defective? Im guessing a motor or door has broken. I'm living in Qatar and the Ford dealer want to start by checking for leaks and discharging the gas, it cools perfectly, they are just trying to rob me
That seems like the 2nd door motor I replaced by the gas pedal. Some of the comments have pointed out the gas pedal removes easily with 3 bolts. You might also check the 3rd motor down by the blower motor. That one can be harder to get to.
I have a 2011 f150 lariat. Sometimes it clicks a few time when i turn key on, sometimes it clicks for a few minutes. I can usually make it quit by changing the temp from hot to cold and back. Then it blows hot or cold air just fine. My problem is that is only blows out of the defrost and floor vents. What do i do?
I have a 2010 F150 when I turn either my air or heat it will only blow for about 10 to 15 seconds and it fades out and gives small If if anyone knows what this may be please send me a message thanks
@@nickelndiminit5136 i have clicking problem on my f150. After i took air blender door actuator out the one behind radio, when i open the door, i still hear the clicking without actuator. What could be?
@@tunthan3221 There are 3 total motors like this in the system I am aware of. Usually one of them is the source of the clicking. I replaced 2 of them in this video that had both failed. I have not had a problem with them since then.
I have every positive scenario. truck goes to normal engine temp. hoses hot from radiator. new thermostat. hoses to firewall are hot. fan works and blow in all selections. It blows cold air! I cannot figure it out.
It is very likely the motor seized for the blend door. My wife's taurus motor did the same thing and she didn't get heat basically at all. If you haven't replaced the blend door motor in yours, it may be a $25 part that solves the problem.
Thanks for the reply. Yes you are correct it was the Blend Door. I talked myself into thinking that it wasn't because all of the air flow selections would switch to the proper flow or vents. This made me think that the door was working and it was a heating problem. However I gave up and took it in and they fixed it. Cost me big though. That's how you 'weigh it'. I wasn't going into my dash like that so I paid up. Happy to have it taken care of.
Not built with maintenance in mind. What a pain in the ass to repair. Anyone asked Ford why they put such unreliable parts in such a hard place to get to? These trucks cost way too much money for little accessory crap to break down in the first 10 years... I guess they weren't BUILT FORD TOUGH...?
Nothing is more frustrating than performing a complex repair, and trying to get perfect video. I'm willing to give him a pass because this is the first time I've seen the second actuator.
Can't say enough thanks to you. Both of my exact actuators also went out at the same time. Used your video as a guide and worked flawlessly. You saved me a TON of money. God bless you!
Blend door actuator switches between heat and air only and is located mid dash behind the entertainment system. MODE door operates the vents only and is located above the acceleratetor.
have a 2014 and could not get the top bolt so i broke off the actuator (above brake) and removed it that way. use a 1/4 inch drive with a 5/16th socket to remove the screw, it worked to get it back in also. Great help thanks for the info. and yes you have to move the vent door to get the splines to line up.
Thanks for the video, you just saved me a ton of time locating the actuator on the driver side. To make the job much easier i removed the three bolts holding the gas pedal to the firewall and moved the pedal aside. It made removing the actuator bolts way easier.
Mawater Man what all did u have to take off to get the driver side on off and on?
This is a great tip that I didn't think of when I did it. I still think in terms of cable throttle.
Great video! I found your video after I “discovered” the driver’s side motor while installing an aftermarket radio. While I was installing and running the microphone cable under the dash I saw the blend door actuator and thought no way! Other videos required cutting the air duct and carpet to replace the passenger side motor which I thought was the issue but after replacing the driver’s side the annoying clicking is gone after a year and a half! Wish I found your video earlier but I’m sure someone else will find it helpful!
This saved me $2500. Thank you, friend.
Thanks. My 2011 just started clicking today and I needed the info you provided. I too will save the unbelievable overpriced job and do it myself. My 57 year old body will be sore afterwards but I will live to spend my $1500 on something else. Thanks
Hahaha, thats the idea. Hope the video helped.
Thank you. With this video I was able to identify the problem, go to three stores to find the part, and fix it myself in two hours for twenty seven bucks. The unit was clicking for years if it was set to either extreme so I would have to back it off. Now I am kind of glad it finally gave out because it can go full cold or full hot with the replacement part. Mine is a 2009 so it may be a little different but the back bolt on the blend motor was almost impossible to get a wrench on. No clearance for a socket and too tight for a socket wrench. I had to use a regular wrench and almost needed to hire someone with smaller hands and more patience.
I was told the ford manuals recommend dash removal, draining coolant to drain the heater core, etc. I like this method with some patience better. :)
not going be fun hopefully i can get that back bolt off
Watched your video and did it all in about an hour. The back screw for the blend motor was NO fun, but all in all the video helped a ton! Thanks!
Agreed, those are tough to access, worse in my expedition. Glad it was helpful though.
Thanks. I was wondering how long it will take to do this.
Thanks for doing the one under the steering wheel it saved my ass and a couple of bucks. Keep them coming bro
2009 F150: in my truck, everything was simple & identical to the video until the *very last step* to remove the actuator motor. Within 15 minutes I tore the dash apart and wrenched the *front* bolt out of the actuator. The *rear* bolt was very difficult in my truck... A socket wrench does not fit in any way. The entire air box assembly seems to sit about one inch higher than is shown here. I needed a friend to pry bar the air box down about a half inch, then I reached thru the glovebox with a short open-end wrench. After figuring this solution, it took about a minute to remove the rear bolt. Took about an hour in total for me because the air box shape/size/location must vary in some trucks, plus I needed extra hands.
Yes this is true and sounds like good tips. I just did this same job on a high mileage expedition project along with many other things I will be posting videos on.
Thank for the video! I don't know how much you saved me in $$, but most of all you gave the confidence I could do the job. Mechanics is not new to me, but I detest (read "fear") pulling trim. Overall, cost me $25.00 and about 3 hours - including traveling round trip to get the part.
BTW - I have a 2013 F150 XLT Super Crew 4x4. The part for mine from AutoZone was DURALAST BDAC1014 604-252. Fit right in!
I'm with you, Brother! I purchased a set of nylon trim removal tools from Harbor freight. Trim, screw drivers and me have a bad history!
Thank you for this video! My dealer told me it would be $1700 to replace both blend door motors. Thanks for the trouble you went through to make this video and share it with us!!
Thank you! watched all the other videos and tore out my radio and airbag just to realize it was the one under the driver side. Highly recommend a 5/16 ratchet wrench.
Hi friend, my Ford has one under the pedal. I have the problem that it doesn't blow hot air. Do you think that could be the problem? Or does it also have one behind the radio?
It could be either. Try to narrow down where the clicking is coming from.
It doesn't make any noise if air comes out and the cold air works but the hot air doesn't work, so my question is if you have another one behind the radio?
Great Video. I repair cars and trucks for a living. I also own a 2014 F 150 Lariat. For what it's worth, I also learned years ago...it's best not to ever make any changes in mode, or temp, etc...while the blower is on high, or even med speed. it resembles a hurricane going through your house....and all the doors are slamming open and shut. (things will tend to break) again...great video. Looking forward to more.
You have no idea how helpful this is! Thanks you!! My truck battery, and the exact same two a/c control motors went out today at the same time and it's been 102 almost the entire week. You've saved me tons of time with this vid. Thanks!
Glad it was helpful.
Thanks for sharing. This video shows alot more than other versions.
Thanks, this is a great walk-through video. I have a 2011 F150 XLT (Manual climate control air system) and I hear the click-click-click as I turn on the AC. Thanks.
Thank you for this video, you just saved me a ton of money and aggravation. Job took me about an hour and was very manageable.
Glad to hear it. That is why I ignore the haters. If I help 10 people, I have done something worthwhile.
Excellent job I was just sitting eating lunch and decided to turn the air conditioner on because the truck felt like a greenhouse. And all of a sudden click click click click click from the left side of the upper dash so I guess that's the one that's breaking. And yes I will replace both of them. Do they have the same part number on both motors?
Thanks for putting this together, but the video was so dark I couldn't make out most of the parts in place to figure out if I want to have a go at this myself. Appreciate the effort!
Thanks for the feedback. In the new stuff I am doing, I am really focusing on making higher quality video.
This last month has been heavy on the maintenace items like tires, spark plugs, blend door and other A/C motors needing replacement. So here is the cheap way to fix the clicking F150 air conditioner with simple hand tools and no $1500 dealer bill. Parts cost was ~$100 for both motors.
great job
This video is exactly what I need. Great video. Thanks.
Hey thanks for the vid. I only had to replace the one on the drivers side. Three 13mm bolt hold the gas pedal on. Remove them and there’s room to work. Two 8mm screws hold the actuator on.
That is a great tip. These with electronic throttle bodies are easy to remove. I didn't think of that, but it would be easier.
thanks, you have save me a lot of money! very explanatory thanks ones again.
Thanks for posting this video, I recently bought a used truck a month ago in April. Couple weeks went by, now I hear that clicking sound, ac cold air isn’t working and summer is coming up. I’m no mechanic but looking at this video. I just don’t know, how much were the blender doors cost?
I've seen other videos and from my experience you dont have to remove the instrument cluster trim or the airbag - you can flex the parts enough to get the radio out.
I think you could, but that is why I do videos. Hopefully to save others time, money and frustration.
While you are in there, you may as well attach a micro USB to USB cable to the radio back so you can have your USB 2 access. I put my cable in the glove box with a flash drive full of music in USB 2 and frees up my USB for connecting other items. You can also access the port through the top of the dash board, under the tray by removing the ribbed pad and removing a couple screws.
That is a fantastic idea. I am also wanting to install the factory remote start option that comes with another key and (I think) installs in the same area.
Do you have link for remote start setup ...??
@@virginiareeder9961 No.
Awesome video! Thank you for the information. this will save me a lot of time trying to locate the motors.
Hopefully it helps save you some time. That's why I post videos. :)
Nothing was more frustrating than replacing the actuator behind the radio, then still hearing clicking. After spending hours trying to locate the lower actuator, I gave up and have been hearing the clicking for 2 years now. Now that you showed us where the other actuator is located, I'm going to try again. But as I'm a big man, I may remove the seat to give my a little room and hopefully won't have to contort as much. Do Both actuators have the same part number? Thank you! I know first hand how difficult it was to do the work, then document with a camera.
Your video helped me find my problem and fix it. I really would have liked to know how you took the back screw on the blend motor out, and how you put it back. I just could not. No room and no view of it. I did not put mine back screw back...
I had to break mine off and not replace it too :)
I used a 1/4” ratchet with a 9/32” socket. My left hand went through the front & the right through the glove box. It was VERY tedious but I got it done. Had to start it by hand though
I did it carefully like Steven described below. I just did this job on a 2010 expedition that has a bunch of videos coming soon. I couldn't use any of these tricks and ended up losing the back screw.
I have a 2011 f150 xlt crew cab and my symptom was just that there was no longer heated air coming out the vents, just ambient or cold air. I’ve never heard any clicking sounds but I presume this may still be my issue.
Mine is a 2009 f150 platinum series with similar problems. Passenger side AC ok, but driver's side, nothing but hot air comes out. Haven't checked air to windshield, but I'm assuming simply replacing both motors will solve everything? What about doors that durect airstream demands?
Thank You!! My truck has been clicking for months. I pulled the lower actuator in 15 minutes!
Glad it was helpful!
Great video. I have to change my left blend motor. Thanks
Great vid nickel. i know the effort you put into it and appreciate your stick to it.. keep up the good work. thanks again.
Thanks for the kind words. I aim for helpful stuff rather than just video count. More cool stuff coming...
Is there a recall for the ford f150 actuators failing ? Seems like it could be hazardous to drive with no defrost ?
Very helpful video!! Where is the third one located? And what’s the part number for it?
Does the 2014 xlt only have the 2 blend doors I think mine is the left making noise and I'm going to replace all at one time that's why I'm asking
This fixes the ac got my from hot to cold ? Or does it help push air from the front vents ? My 2014 f150 blowing air from the doors and under the seats but the dash vents don’t get no air
In order to narrow down problem solving, what does each motor do?
So is it a Mode door or blend door actuator i got people 2 different types so I can order the part
So my f150 has full freon and everything and heat works fine it just doesn't blow cold at all is this the fix
This is a likely culprit. If your compressor is kicking on and off as it should when you have it to full AC, this should be where your problem is located. As a matter of fact, I have to do this same replacement in my expedition which is a 2010, so I will be making a video on that one again.
Thanks I really appreciate you getting back with me im going to rewatch the video and see if I can handle doing it
@@nickelndiminit5136 I'm going to order the part and attempt it
Hi, what is the device under the 4h 4L knob?
WHAT ABOUT THE BROKEN GEARS/PIECES ...DID YOU VACUUM THEM OUT OF THE BOTTOM PART???
I have a 2011 f150 also and it all of a sudden stopped blowing air compressor I'm trying to find out the best way to go
What is the door blend home position on the driver's side?
We’re both motors the same part number?
is it the same part for both locations
Hello Nick . So my A/c in my 2013 F150 does not blow like it should. I think it is the blend door motor that u replaced in your video. But what it confusing me is that it seems like it works fine when the outside temperature is under 80 degrees . (Of course when I don’t need it) as soon as the temp goes over 80 it barely blows but i can hear the fan going . Thanks for your help!!!!
Great video, very accurate and informative. I had to replace both actuators as well. Couldn't have done it without you!!! Thanks!
Thanks, glad it helped!
Thank you for making this video, it’s helped me so much. I have an issue though, I have a Ford F-150 and it’s having the same problem. Back in winter, I had to take it to the mechanic to fix the heat. Now in summer, the a/c doesn’t work. Which motor would I need to change?
Hello! thanks for the full video instruction, I have just a cold air from deflectors on 2010 f-150, is this steper-motor switch from cold to -warm air? an As I am understand there is 3-types of this motors?
Yes this is the replacement for the cold/warm blend door. The current revised part number is the YH-1933 and don't pay dealer prices for the part. The other 2 motors are also the same type of stepper motor with the forged rice noodle gears. One controls the vent/defrost/floor which I replaced toward the end of the video and the third is the heater door/recirculator motor.
Thanks a lot, I ordered a new type steper-motor , disasembled old-one and found small plastic details there, now everything is fine there.
Glad to hear its fixed. Broken equipment drives me up the wall, big time.
I have a 2010 F-150, is there any way to add a cabin air filter to it? I'm so tired of the dusty vents.
Hey there great video. Maybe you can help me too.. on my Ford everything looks fine the cold air and the warm air blows fine and also the air blows from which vent I want. The only problem I have is when I turn it off or when its already turned off it blows (slowly) hot air on my windshield and cause it to fog. And before anyone suggest the inner air circulation is turned on. Please help!!
That sounds like it could be the third motor which is mounted somewhere closer to the blower motor. I don't remember what it is called, but it has the job of opening and closing the door from the heater core. That motor could be responsible if its not closing that door. That could cause the warm air to rise through the dash vents. That would be my best guess.
Hmm ,that sounds like .let me ask you have you replaced your windshield if so it was replaced with a low quality glass type model .
Octavio Gomez thanks for your help. I bought it second hand so i Really don't know but what it has to do one with the other? I can both see and feel the hot condense air coming out of the upper vent...
NickelNDiminIt thanks
I've replaced the actuator 3 times in the past year because they keep failing. Any thoughts on what causes that? Mine is the one on top of the air box.
I just had to re-replace the one in my Expedition from the same year range. I know what the problem is, but I haven't nailed down a solution yet. Think 3D printer and exotic materials...So I do have some things in the works but nothing I have been able to actually test yet. TLDR version is the nylon gears are resilient to being stripped out but can't hold the required torque. So the main gear needs replaced with a better material where it fails. I have so many videos to edit and post, its silly. So stay tuned and I will link the follow up video to this one.
Hi! Are the two engines you changed the same?
Does anyone know what part is activated in a 2014 f150 by just opening the door, causing a behind the dash kicking noise no key in or on. Any part of the heating cooling system activated by either door being opened?
Hey Richard I have this exact same issue, did you ever figure it out?
Hey I have a 2012 F150 Platinum ecoboost the air conditioning works fine on both side, but the heat only comes out on the passenger side….all the the controls are electric…will this video work with it…I was told it was the Lower actuator that was causing the problem….and around 1000.00 to fix at a dealer….my truck only has 44,000 on it which seems kinda early to be having this problem…I’m a female and don’t really thing I can do this plus I’m covered up with medical bills and can’t really afford for Ford to do it, but I will try…thanks for the video
At $1000, I can buy 40 of these motors to fix trucks. The motors are about $25-30 depending on your preferred vendor. I just paid $23 for one for my wife's Taurus. I do not have the dual zone climate control in mine, but you can enter the vin of your truck in fordparts.com and search air conditioning motor. The motors are all located in the same area for all these F150's. And for what its worth, my truck is an '11 xlt and I have 55k miles on mine. I know the bills game with medical. My surgery a while back was awful! Its like surgery costs $10k per minute these days. I would encourage you to be willing to try this. The worst thing you can do is have to take it back apart and put it together a couple times until it works right. There is no wiring to mess up, just some screws that are hidden and maybe some plastic tabs to break. The ford service procedure for this is something like 4 service hours. If your hands can turn a small 1/4 inch drive ratchet, you can definitely do it yourself and save $975. :)
just tell your health care professionals you will pay what medicare pays- they will accept that and save you $
Well on my dad's 13 f150 the fresh air/inside air door broke and the splined piece that goes on the motor fell into the blower and caused it to vibrate. All I did was take the blower out to remove the broken piece but now it's just fresh air all the time.
I have 2013 f150. I hear clicking sound behind the radio. But only a few minutes clicking and the sound go away. After few minutes later, the clicking sound came again. Heat and cool work fine. Control working fine too. After i watched a few video from TH-cam, i took blander motor out the one behind the radio. I open the door, i still hear clicking sound without blander motor on. What could be?
This sounds like that could be the 3rd motor down closer to the blower motor in the passenger footwell area. Or it is possible that one of the new motors has failed following install. It is hard to tell without actually seeing/hearing in person. One thing you can do is hold a screwdriver or socket extension contacting the motor and listen to the other end close to your ear to see if it has failed. Or you can unplug each one individually and see if the clicking stops. The gears in these motors are super weak and break easily. But all manufacturers are using parts like these that fail out of warranty because they want to sell new cars not lasting durable ones.
Hello, which motor did you replace to fix the issue of where the air is blowing? My 2011 Ford F-150 isn't having issues with the heat but no matter where I want the air to blow it seems like that's the motor that's not working. Thanks for your help
Did my actuator today and now all my vents seem to work but I’m still hearing clicking. I didn’t realize there is a second one on driver side 🤦♂️
Thank you, very helpful!
Thanks for the video great info
Do you have the part number for the motor close to the pedals ? (On the end of the video) on my truck the part is not the same as the yh1933
i know i will i have the exact same problem and the exact same truck so thank you
So did the same job exactly how the video said. Don't have any issues with air blowing or vents, defrost or any other setting, but as soon as I turn the key on I STILL GET like 4 or 5 clicks before it works? It sounds like the one right behind the stereo? ANY HELP with why it keeps doing this would be great!!!
That is odd. It sounds like the replacement motor may have stripped out some teeth or been defective? There are 3 of these motors total, with the third down by the blower motor. Perhaps that one failed? Hard to tell through the internet.
What’s weird with mine I changed it and it blows cold air now all around in my truck. But it still knocks like 5x and then it’s fine. Why is that anyone know
my Grandson pushed a scented vent clip in the vent that caused my actuator to start clicking and now it is stuck on heat any help on removing this before I replace the actuator..
Great video brother! I replaced the one behind the radio and it still clicks on the driver side. I think you're the only one providing help on the driver side actuator. To the point, is it the same actuator: part # YH-1933?
No, the one on drivers side is YH1881
Like Rob commented it is the YH1881 by the gas pedal. Those gears are made of the finest forged rice noodles so they break at the first chance. But this is common to all manufactured vehicles. This isn't just ford.
Hi I've got an f150 2013, when AC is on full power it blows out a good airflow from the vents, when I select max and or recycle the motor increases speed but the amount of air coming from the vents is reduced significantly.
Do you have any idea what part may be defective? Im guessing a motor or door has broken.
I'm living in Qatar and the Ford dealer want to start by checking for leaks and discharging the gas, it cools perfectly, they are just trying to rob me
That seems like the 2nd door motor I replaced by the gas pedal. Some of the comments have pointed out the gas pedal removes easily with 3 bolts. You might also check the 3rd motor down by the blower motor. That one can be harder to get to.
😂 this one also lost its mind today hahaha loved that one
I have a 2011 f150 lariat. Sometimes it clicks a few time when i turn key on, sometimes it clicks for a few minutes. I can usually make it quit by changing the temp from hot to cold and back. Then it blows hot or cold air just fine. My problem is that is only blows out of the defrost and floor vents. What do i do?
That is the Yh1881 motor by the gas pedal in the last part of the video.
I have a 2010 F150 when I turn either my air or heat it will only blow for about 10 to 15 seconds and it fades out and gives small If if anyone knows what this may be please send me a message thanks
Awesome. Where did you get the parts from?
I am sure you solved this already, but I have now added amazon links to the main part I used, the YH1933 motor.
Hear it clicking when turning the key to Aux, not even turning on the engine.
Any time it has power to climate control you will hear it if it is broken.
@@nickelndiminit5136 i have clicking problem on my f150. After i took air blender door actuator out the one behind radio, when i open the door, i still hear the clicking without actuator. What could be?
@@tunthan3221 There are 3 total motors like this in the system I am aware of. Usually one of them is the source of the clicking. I replaced 2 of them in this video that had both failed. I have not had a problem with them since then.
MANY TANKS!!!
Thank you Sir
Thank you!
$1161 February 2023 to change 4 actuators in 2011 F150.
Worth a like
I have every positive scenario. truck goes to normal engine temp. hoses hot from radiator. new thermostat. hoses to firewall are hot. fan works and blow in all selections. It blows cold air! I cannot figure it out.
It is very likely the motor seized for the blend door. My wife's taurus motor did the same thing and she didn't get heat basically at all. If you haven't replaced the blend door motor in yours, it may be a $25 part that solves the problem.
Thanks for the reply. Yes you are correct it was the Blend Door. I talked myself into thinking that it wasn't because all of the air flow selections would switch to the proper flow or vents. This made me think that the door was working and it was a heating problem. However I gave up and took it in and they fixed it. Cost me big though. That's how you 'weigh it'. I wasn't going into my dash like that so I paid up. Happy to have it taken care of.
Not built with maintenance in mind. What a pain in the ass to repair. Anyone asked Ford why they put such unreliable parts in such a hard place to get to? These trucks cost way too much money for little accessory crap to break down in the first 10 years... I guess they weren't BUILT FORD TOUGH...?
how about the air bag u just move it a bit without disconnecting it
I made a video on this with some great tips
Thanks
Nice
thank you great video!
Thank you
Thank you.
For the drivers side, it makes it a lot easier to just remove the gas pedal and move it to the side
Thanks Bro
Nice video. A little more light would be nice so that we can actually see what you're doing in detail.
Nothing is more frustrating than performing a complex repair, and trying to get perfect video. I'm willing to give him a pass because this is the first time I've seen the second actuator.
Let’s take a million pieces off unnecessarily to replace a part that should take 5 minutes
$1500 what in the world. $200 installed all day
Labor es de 1500 dolares .😢😢 wuao
blend door is not open to cool off the car
Never showed replacement of the blend door. Disappointing
Take gas peddle off and you can get to it easier
i think i love u know, u save me $700 dollars for both motors