Thanks SO, SO, SO much for your video. It was the only one that has the detail needed to get this done. I have a 2012 F150 Lariat with center console (rear air). This just saved me $1000 and makes it easier to swap it out if it goes bad again. Plus I now have the confidence to rip apart my truck under-dash with speed! To help pay it forward, I'm going to try to give everyone the details of my experience. I ordered the Motorcraft YH1933 motor suggested and its the right one for my truck. I spent about 8 hours doing this process a week ago and discovered I couldnt get the old motor out without cutting and didnt want to take the chance with a hacksaw that I had. I also knew the power connector would be unreachable with anything I had on hand. Sadly, put it all back together and prepared to take it to a shop perhaps (NOO!). Then I thought: if I just had the right tools for those two steps and my new experience (saving much time next time) I could probably get it done now. The extra stuff I bought (at Harbor Freight ) to make this work out was an oscillating tool (plastic removal) Item #63113, set of 4 pry bars Item #1654, a some curved locking pliers item#65711. Got them all for $42 after various coupons (and another free tape measure!). Also, use an air ratchet on the seat bolts if you have one and a drill with socket connector for the 7mm screws where possible (will need a long, thin extension on some). This will not only save you time, but energy you WILL NEED for the motor removal. I like to play it somewhat safe so motor removal itself took several hours just so I could be sure I wouldnt crack anything or break the wiring. Things I had already on hand: Pry tools for trim. 15mm (seats) and 7mm (all else) sockets. Socket wrench extensions. Shallow socket wrench: Already had one or would have bought this too (someone recommended one). This was great to have sometimes, but the open/closed end 7mm wrench worked too and was also sometimes necessary. Of course, air ratchet, lights, drill with socket attachment, screwdrivers. Here is a detailed procedure while its still fresh in my mind. Credits to advice given by various people here (thank you all!): 1. Unbolt the 4 bolts on both front seats, slide seats back as far as cables go, dont have to disconnect them, just move them back out of the way. 2. Remove small grommet on carpet found under seats holding rug down (optional but makes things easier to remove the under carpet vent). 3. Remove covers on either side of console. On the sides of console, remove a screw front and back on each side (black front, back silver). 4. Pop the top cover off the shifter area (move shifter to N or D to get this out) and remove the shifter as explained in video (4 screws, 1 power, 1 cable that pops off of pin and plastic that slides up). 5. Remove the two screws holding console to dash, remove two power cables on passenger footwell area, then slide console back and remove. 6. Remove center metal silver support bracket that was just revealed by removing console (4 screws). 7. Detach two power cables attached to small center duct and remove center duct by just pulling/wiggling. 8. Remove door sill plates then peel back the carpet and lay it on the seats. Someone said they had to cut the carpet but I see no reason to if you removed the metal silver support. You can now see the under seat air ducts. 9. Remove 1 plastic anchor on each side of under carpet duct, lift entire duct up and slide towards the back seat to remove (a little at a time on each side helps make it easier). 10. Remove both metal side dash supports for easy access to area around the motor/vents. 11. Remove all silver screws you can see holding lower section. There were about 3 on the drivers side, 1 on the passenger side (tower). Also, one more for the motor itself later. 12. Remove the plastic tower blocking removal of the motor (use an oscillating tool for easy work here). You can glue it back or just leave it out and support the plastic ducts later with some rubber/cloth/closed cell foam. 13. Pry out the motor area from both sides with lots of large pry bars. Pry down on motor (for forever it seems) until the unreachable screw mount snaps. This took a while and I thought it would never snap but it will! 14. Wiggle the motor most of the way out (drive gear should just come out of area, this takes a while too) then reach back with picks/hemostat to unlock/disconnect power connector as this is as far as it will go safely. Remember, there is a locking slide AND a locking lever on the power connector you have to press as you push it off motor. I broke the locking slide off, no loss there. Pushing the lever in while removing is hard to do since the lever is on the bottom of that dang connector. Remove motor the rest of way once the cable is disconnected. 15. Now remove that dang screw on the broken part of the motor mount. 16. Mark where old motor front spline is, compare to new motor position, remove old motor spline from case and use as a tool to align the vent door. 17. Now just wiggle in your new motor and use the curved locking pliers (hemostat) to hold/push power connector in until it clicks. Should line right up if you did the previous step right. 18-??. Install motor and test it a little to be sure its fixed. The put in screws and reverse all the above, pull fuse 46, etc... Good Luck!
When doing blend doors on crown Vics and town cars we would loosen that back bolt a 1/4 turn. After removing/prying the old one out of course. Then cut a slot in the screw hole on the actuator. Then drop/slide the new one in to the rear, and tighten down the easy bolt.
I just did my 2012 expedition and this video helped a lot. Took 4 hours. The procedure is very similar for Expedition, but I did have to break the plastic tab that sticks down right by the actuator. Getting the new actuator in was the most challenging part. Thank you for this helpful video, you have saved several people hundreds of dollars.
Okay, so I wound up replacing both the upper and lower. Symptoms were: clicking noise passenger's side(upper) and no heat or cool on the driver's side(lower). The upper one was easy enough once I removed the radio. The lower one's a different story. I used the hack as outlined in the video for removing the old one by breaking, actually sawing through, the back eyelet. The one thing I didn't quite pickup in the video was your comment on whether you'd be able to get the new lower actuator back in and seated properly, and that really turned into a job. Total time for both actuators was right at 8.5 hours, but I wasn't in a hurry. Really appreciate all your videos, I've used many of them and they're spot on.
I replaced my drivers side blend door actuator on my 2010 F150 Lariat last night in my driveway, I was actually pretty quick as I watched the video about a dozen times and decided to go for the "hack" method. the truck has 190,000 km (Ontario Canada) on it and was not spending $1000.00+ on it. breaking the actuator free wasn't too hard, the difficulties I encountered were removing it from its location. I ended up breaking off a support post which was in the way that holds up the lower duct. I used Loctite 454 to glue it back in. It all went together fine and works great. If it wasn't for your videos I wouldn't have tried it. Oh yeah, total time from start to finish was just over 2 hrs. I love my truck my truck again. I replaced it with a Ford one, $51.00, I figured it lasted this long, hopefully it lasts 2 more years as I want the new 2017 F150 engine boost with the 10 speed auto. Keep the videos coming, I tell all my friends about how helpful they are.
First, thanks for the video! I know this takes time and effort for you to do and I appreciate it tremendously - I learn a lot from your channel! I have a 2013 Expedition Limited with Electronic DATC. My driver's side (LH) blend door is in the same location HOWEVER there is not as much space between the bottom of the floor duct and the vehicle body to pry a large enough space to remove the actuator. In addition to the steps in the video, here's what I had to do: 1. At 2:03, center console removal is different (see below link). 2. Remove DATC panel, and lower panel including Trailer Brake Control unit. 3. Cut out the pillar that connects to the floor duct shown @ 6:07 4. Break the 2nd mounting clip as shown @7:22 and cut out the mounting pillar for that side. 5. Remove old actuator by prying apart the two ducts as mentioned and sliding out through space created from Steps 3 & 4. 6. Reinstall the new actuator (Doorman part 604-252 @ $25 - Advance Auto Parts) with only ONE screw as shown in video and placing VERY thick foam between actuator and floor duct AND between floor duct and vehicle body to hold everything in place. CAUTION, CAUTION, CAUTION!!!!!!!!!!!! The connector is on the REAR of this actuator (front of vehicle side). The wire harness for this actuator is VERY short and you can NOT remove the actuator without unplugging the harness FIRST! One of the most difficult parts of this job was reinstalling the connector in the rear with the actuator "partially" pushed into place as there is only room to do it "one handed". Took me about 8 hours to do this as I tried several things before cutting out pillars in steps 3 & 4 above when I finally realized that was necessary for me to be able to remove the actuator. It was closer to 10 hours if you count the swearing and praying. This was definitely a hack job but I was able to replace the actuator without removing the whole dash! The below link has harness drawing, DATC schematic, DATC removal, TBC removal, center console removal and lower blend door actuator removal from my 2013 Expedition shop manual. GOOD LUCK! www.dropbox.com/sh/brvw1rh9kmg4dd0/AACfPj7drHz1ipInv6UBp-D7a?dl=0
Just wanted to say I love your videos. they have been a big help. I tackled the drivers side blend door, the bottom hard one, and the only issue I had was lining up the gears. I wanted to pass along how I fixed it. knowing the grear is keyed to that larger open space. when I removed the old one that space was at the 2 o'clock spot. the new one was at the arrow at 12 o'clock. I took apart the old one , marked with sharpe opposite the side of the gear from the large keyed gear. lined it up to 2 o'clock went right in then turned it to 12 o'clock. the new part then inserted like a champ. As you know there is no wiggle room to move the new part to line up the gears. just wanted to pass the hint to others. I now have it working great. Thank you for videos. GC
I wonder if there is a temperature I should set the controller at before disassembly to line up the splines for the replacement better (vs manually moving it to 12 o’clock).
I watched this video about 30 times, and then went in with my own approach. I did not remove the center console. Instead, I went in through the passenger footwell, removed all of the 8mm screws/bolts necessary to reach the actuator. I then pried down on it and broke the rear screw hole off. Then, I took an oscillating tool and cut off the long post that's right in the way, and the extra plastic fins which don't affect airflow at all. After that I was able to pry the old unit out, which became disconnected from the wiring in the process. I had to pry like there was no tomorrow. But like this dude says, the ducts are super flexible, just slowly apply more pressure. Getting the new one hooked up was kind of a bear, but doable. I had my pry bar held up with 2x4 chunks so that I could use both hand while hooking up the wiring. Some wiggling, repositioning, and curse words later, the wiring harness clicked in! Now I just had to shimmy it into place. This too required an awful lot of pressure, but eventually slid into the right spot, But then the actuator gear wasn't lined up with the interior workings of the hvac box. I simply turned the key to the on position, and ran the thermostat up and down while applying upward pressure to the unit. When the gears lined up, it slid right into place. I put it all back together, used some Gorilla super glue to put the peg back into place, pulled the fuse for one minute, installed fuse, recalibrated the blend doors, and BOOM! My truck is now super warm and the thermostat responds when I change the temp! Thanks for the video!! This saved me about $1200!
Just finished...all day (with a super bowl break). What a bitch! My hands look like a cat scratched them up from all the prying and manipulating around the brackets and duct work. Beer Earned!
Excellent Video. Different trucks have different stuff to remove. I have a 2010 F150 Super Crew Cab Lariat with AC Seats and dual climate control. I have a thru air center console with console shifter. I had to remove both front seats, center console, shifter, remove all front carpet and remove the HVAC duct work that runs under the carpet and seat + all the stuff you had to remove. It was a royal pain and took me 6hrs. I could do it in 4 hrs next time. I also had to cut one front mounting post out of the way with a hack saw blade and I also did not use that back screw like you did in the video. Its totally non issue since there is so much stuff crammed down there it will not move. Everything works now and I have full heat and AC! Thanks a lot.
Thanks for sharing this video.. I'm a GM technician so I don't see a lot of Ford vehicles but I used this on my buddy's wife's expedition and was able to repair it and saved hours and hundreds of dollars. Thanks again!!!
THANK YOU! I ended up replacing both actuators, and a Blower Motor resister, and it's good to go now. I also had to remove the seats, and pull the carpet back to remove the duct under the seats. With small sharp flathead screwdriver, I was able to snap the eyelet off the back side where you can't get to the screw, by pressing against it, giving it a few light hammer blows and letting the screwdriver cut through the support.. I ended up sawing off the top of the old actuator nub, and then breaking all the clips around the sides of the actuator and prying it open a bit, to allow the connector to slide right off the back, with a little light wiggling. I also ended up sawing the one long support coming down from the box that blocks the actuator, but not completely through; I used a jigsaw blade to go mostly through, flush with the top, and then left the back side along the top in back connected. That allowed me to leave it partially connected, and move it out of the way. Once the actuator was out, I looked at the new one to see how it lined up, then in inserted the sawed off piece to position the hole just right (don't push it too far up though, it could get stuck in there. The crazy part...to ensure I could get the connector plugged back into the new one, I cut a pair of chopsticks in half, the cheap wood kind that come with your Chinese food, that are still connected at the non-food end. Keep them connected, which allows you to slightly pry open the chopsticks, and slide the two 'poles' on either side of the wiring harness, right up agains the connector housing. The chopsticks pinch it just enough, that you can then grab the end with your fingers from the back, and then maneuver the clip into the back end of the new actuator, once you slide it back in. Once in, some super glue to keep the partially cut long support coming down from the box, a folded piece of cardboard under the duct, to keep it tight - as you can't replace the back screw - button everything back up, good to go.
Just completed this quite a PITA, but got it done in ~2hrs with lots of rewatching YT videos and saved myself a lot of $$. Heating/cooling works as it should again! Thanks.
FIrst off let me say that without this video, I would have pulled the entire dash out on my 2012 Ford F150 FX4. I did what the video shows and it saved me hours of time. I have heat blowing on the driver side again. Woohoo. However, DO NOT ATTEMPT THIS WITHOUT READING EVERYONE'S COMMENTS. This is probably the most incomplete video I have found on TH-cam and certainly from this publisher. Tools recommended: 1/4" ratchet, 8mm socket, 8mm combo, straight probe and ideally a curved one or custom bend a small long skinny blade screwdriver (to remove the wire from the actuator). The seats will need lots of torque since the bolts will be rusted, so a 1/2 ratchet/breaker bar and a 19mm socket 1/2" drive (risky with 3/8" drives). First off I never heard the noise demonstrated in the video. Other videos from FordTechMakuloco will show you why you won't. If you have a vent to the rear seat, you have to remove both front seats to get the vent removed. You have to at least pull the carpet back to the front seats - shown but not demonstrated. The video does not demonstrate the crucial part of removing the actuator. That took a couple hours of fiddling. Others explain, but let me say you have to be patient. Take 15 minutes and try pulling the wire out of the defroster/lower heat blend door, found easily on the driver's side of the vent housing. It is exactly the same process found on this actuator. You just have to do it blind. Also, cut the main support arm off as many below suggest. You'll never get the actuator out, much less remove the cord. 2x4 propping the pry bar while removing and ultimately putting the wire back in the new actuator is recommended. Crazy glue or epoxy to glue it back on. Its easier to position the support by starting the screw before gluing it back in place. Shim(s) to go under the vent when you are done, just because that support arm relies on glue Just be patient, go slowly and you will get it. It is worth the time and money saved. Good luck!!
A friend and I tackled this on my 2012 Raptor. Gave up the first time but went back and took out the seats and pulled back the carpet to remove the rear duct work for better access. I'm too big to get under the dash, plus arthritic hands make it worse, but my friend is younger, stronger, smaller, and very patient. It took several hours to unhook the wire, remove and replace the motor, and reconnect the wire, but we got it finally. I briefly removed the fuse as advised and now the AC works fine.
Thanks for the video Brother. Worked great on my 2011 F150. I put a dab of super glue on the missed screw. Worked like a charm. Thank you for the alternative method. A few hours, as many beers and a couple trips to the store for tools later and the drivers side is icy cold. Thanks again for posting this, dash removal is beyond my expertise. You saved me a few hundred. I’d buy you a beer if you were in CO.
Thank you sir! I was experiencing similar issues with no change in temp on driver’s side. I did not have the clicking so I was not 100% certain this actuator was the cause. I had it professionally diagnosed by a local A/C service shop that confirmed the problem but they would not touch it...too big of a job. I called the local Ford Dealer who quoted $1,300 in labor and about $40 for the part. After rewatching your video...I got the part from Amazon last week for less that $30 and took care of the job yesterday in my 2010 Expedition in about 5-6 hours!
This video is really well done and helpful. It is a lot of work and you need to make sure to take out as many screws and bolts as possible, as mentioned. If you have a flow through consul with floor vents under the front seats, then there is a step that this video misses. After working for about an hour and no luck, I figured out that I needed to remove the front seats, the carpet, and the vent ducts. This isn't a lot of extra work but their are 4 bolts per seat that may be rusted on and difficult to turn. I removed the bolts and slid the seats back while leaving the power to the seats connected. With all of the junk out of the way, I could access the area and shift the venting around enough to actually get the part out. The next difficult step was plugging the wire harness into the new actuator. I had to have my wife help me so that I could hold the wiring in place and she could push the actuator in. The next difficult step was to get the splines on the shaft to line up with the socket in the actuator. Mine was off and I tried to force it for about 45 minutes. After a lot of depression and thoughts of giving up, I decided to turn on the system and adjust the temperature to see if that would help. As I adjusted the temp dial, I pushed up on the actuator. The motor turned the shaft and it easily slipped into place. Everything went back together pretty well. All in, I spent 6 hours on this project. Gratifying when it is done and happy to save $800 but wow it's a lot of frustrating work.
All the same for me as well. Removed seats, carpet, and under carpet duct work. Aligning the spline was an issue for me as well so I took apart the old actuator and removed the old spline gear. I used that to align the blend door by hand to match the new actuator. Worked like a charm and the new one slipped in easy. I also had trouble with that plug! I could not get it out and had to make a special tool with a hook on the end to click the release. Also took me 6hrs. What a pain!! Everything works perfect now
I just finished the install. It went exactly as show and explained in the video except no matter how much I pried on the duct work, I couldn't get the old one out, so like others, I cut off the bracket in front. Since I couldn't get the second screw in either, I wedged the duct work with cardboard to help keep it in place. Great install hack, glad I tried it. Took me about 2.5 hours. THANKS.
Just finished up doing my drivers side blend door. Thank you so much for the video!! Also a big thanks out to a few people that told about getting the duct work out and removing the seats! The job took me all day... was scared of destroying something. Ended up finally getting done.
Great video! I just tackled this beast today.. It took me two days, but that was due to my schedule.. It was probably a total of 7-8 hours, with at least 5.5-6 of that yesterday getting to the piece, removing it & placing the new one in. Today was putting it all back together.. Let me just say, it was a beast of a job. I have a 2012 lariat with flow through floor vents to the rear. There is much more duct work involved with that than seen here. I could see how the full dash removal would be the better option, but I was already knuckles deep before I realized it & wasn't looking to change my game plan. I completely removed one mounting bracket for the lower duct work, it was directly in front of the actuator & no other way to remove it. Replaced the part, and ducts were very secure minus the one screw. Honestly, I don't think I ever want to do it again & if it's an option, I'd trade it on something else lol. I do love my truck & like most, had a hard time spending 800-1200 for a $30 part.
I just completed this about 2wks ago and watched this video as well as another more in-depth dash board removal TH-cam video. I wanted to post some words of wisdom to the next person who may try to do this and get in over their heads (like I felt at one point). I would classify myself as pretty handy as I have worked on many of my cars in the past from full suspension upgrades to electrical and car audio/video upgrades so I'm not a rookie to getting in the weeds even though this was my first dash removal. #1: try the #15 fuse reset process PRIOR to doing any of this. My actuator wasn't actually clicking even though it still wasn't working prior to me changing it out. I didn't do this and wondered afterward if it just needed to be reset. If this is the "real" problem, it takes no money and 5mins of your time to check the box. #2: you can't, I REPEAT, CAN'T remove, and most importantly reinstall, the lower actuator without removing the dash. I attempted this for several hours over 2 days prior to realizing that I needed to bite the bullet and remove the dash. If you're not up to ripping your truck apart and putting it back together, take it to the dealership. #3: do yourself a favor and replace both actuators...even if you take it to the dealership (just don't let them charge you any extra labor...literally takes 10secs for the top actuator with the dash removed). I ordered 1 initially and waited and extra 2 days for the other to get delivered via Amazon because you definitely don't want to do this again. Now, with all that said, having actually "figuring it out" once I do feel confident that I could do it again and save myself about $1,000 again, but I wouldn't be happy at all. If you decide to go for it, be patient and keep track of all your screws and connections...Good Luck!
Sorry it didn't work for you, but I just replace one without removing the dash. If you just cut the plastic leg off that sticks down in front of actuator and pry duct down it is possible. Not easy but I just did it.
Awesome! THanks for the video! Just a few things that I didn't catch in the video that I had to do. 1. Remove seats to pull back carpet and take out ductwork that runs to rear seats. 2. There is a mounting stud in front of the actuator that needs to be there, I just trimmed up one of the fins on it in order to slide out the actuator. 3. I used a set of forceps from HarborFreight to hold the electrical connector and to slide it in. Other than that, thank you again!
I did exactly everything you did in the video and I got it out and the new one in. Took 6 hours, but the drivers side vents have its full range of temperature back again! One thing not mentioned is the vent for the back floors needs to come out which means removing the front seats and pulling the carpet back to access the screws securing the vent to the floor. There is A LOT of prying on the different plastic vents down under the dash and prying it hard is the only way to slide the blender motor in and out. Also, it is impossible to get the last screw into the new blender housing, that's all the way back towards the drivers side, so I ignored it. I left it with only one screw keeping it in place with no problems at all!!
Thanks for the video. I did this job on my 2010 F150 King Ranch. My truck has rear air, so I ended up having to take the bolts out of the seats and laying them back. I had to pull up the carpet to be able to back off the duct that goes under the seats. I had to break the ear off the old actuator on the screw that faces the drivers side. I also, like many others, had to cut the passenger side pillar that blocks the removal of the actuator. There is not much room to line up the splines for assembly of the actuator. The new actuator was clocked at 12, so I took the old one apart to use the gear to clock the damper at 12 o'clock, in order to mount the new actuator. The whole job took 3.5 hours.
Thank-you for this video I successfully changed my driver blend door following your example but story might be helpful to others. My drivers side blend door actuator faulted and stuck in cold position. I heard no clicking noise at all.. I changed it as per this video being mindful not to operate it while not installed into the door the new motorcraft actuator went from cold to hot and would not adjust. I moved the blend door with an Allen wrench just to verify that it wasn't stuck. Thinking this might have been a faulty part I installed another new actuator it also ran to the hot side during calibration and stayed there. After some research I decided to purchase a new controller (the knobs and buttons in the dash) this fixed my problem and is working great. In conclusion I believe the original actuator faulted and shorted something in my controller the actuator was $40 and the controler was $420. I saved about $1300 in labor thanks to this informative video.
Well, oh well, Great explanation, there is always one, ..... IF you have a center console, and have dual heat/cool controls, just add some more time and patience. You will have to move the carpet back and remove the thresholds. This is due to the wishbone floor duct feed. But I must say having to do this takes patience. I did remove a inch section of the duct work just in front of the damper motor, used a multi tool , then glued back into place. This was very helpful.... Thanks for the video and comments by others, it all was very helpful. I tried it three times, working so far . Fingers crossed, as others have replaced this and it was the controller. Thanks again...
I had lost the AC on the drivers side, I only had hot air of my 2010 F-150 passenger side was OK. I had replaced the lower (driver side) blend door actuator motor in about 4 hours time with out pulling the dash, our incurring any damages. Ford charges 10 hours (about $1,000) just for the dash removal. I had followed the Que from Randall Thurman, thanks Randell and the videos as well they are extremely helpful. I also cut away the stand off (screw tower) from the foot duct by the forward fastener that wasn't used that allowed access for a 7 mm open end wrench to start, than finishing removal with needle nose pliers (reverse to install). I also cut away the aft right hand stand off coming down from the plenum for the foot duct fastener which allowed clearance for the splines to pull the motor out. The connector was a little tight but do able. I also performed the re-calibration by pulling fuse #15 for 5 min and powered up for 30 seconds before starting. That had corrected the issue I had, and also saved a few dollars. I had a real concern with pulling the dash, to many things to go wrong with that process.
William Cummins My experience is just about identical to yours. Had to cut two stand offs to remove the actuator. Couldn't really see a way to get it out without doing so. Unhooking the wiring was difficult, but i was able to finessed it. But it all worked once i got it back together, took about 4 hours. So thankful you posted this, FTM. Awesome tutorial. Saved me a grand.
Just did same job on my 2013 Expedition and want to say thank you so much for this video it helps me a lot! And I even was able to put both bolts back on. Thank you again!
I ended up doing it like you did, breaking the little ear after after spending a lot of time making the effort to get it without damaging it. I was successful with the top so I had hope but it disappeared and I got desperate. It’s working fine now a I am wishing I would of started with cutting that ear off with my Dremel Tool (day late dollar short). Hours would had been minutes. That’s a lot of money saved. Thanks for the help!
I just wanted to say THANK YOU for doing this video. I was able to fix my 2014 F150 today for 28.00! The dealer wanted 1300.00 plus shop fee and tax to do it.
Just completed replacement, OMG , you casually mention "electrical connector" at end! That one thing took me hours & hours and some cutting of plastic on passenger side to get my fingers in enough to connect the connector to the back of the actuator. I got it! but I would not recommend trying this unless you have long skinny fingers. Mine is a 2010 F150 4 X 4 Lariat. This job Sucks . But thank you ! Removing Dash would be ok if you get someone to discharge your air conditioner properly.
I ended up pulling my dash to do it the "right" way, but unless you remove the evaporator and move the whole box up, it doesn't seem like you gain much. We still had to pry up quite a bit to get the lower duct removed. It took me all weekend to get completed. Thanks for the great videos.
Shawn Sass I'm doing this now and not coming out like the video says it does. I'm prying down hard to get as much room as possible but man it doesn't want to come out. I do not want to take out the whole dash of i can avoid it. But idk looks like i might have to.
Thank you for this video!!! Did this on my 2011 Lariat 5.0 this week. I wound up cutting one of the "pillars" on the passenger side (can be seen at 6:03) but because everything down there is so snug I didn't see it as being necessary. I did NOT cut the ductwork as some other videos have recommended. The worst parts of the job were 1. getting the old actuator out - this is why I wound up cutting that pillar off and 2. putting the wire back in the new actuator. My patience was tested a LOT and I wound up using a small piece of wood cut off the end of a 2x4 to hold the ductwork down so I could use both hands to get the wire in place. My truck has the heated/cooled seats and there is a "y shaped" piece of ductwork that runs from the console under the seats, but that ends midway through the seats. I don't believe this has anything to do with the heating/cooling of the steats - the ductwork does NOT connect to the seat. That being said - I did have to remove the bolts from the front two seats and move them out of the way to get this ductwork connected back. The other thing not in the video is the drive gear on the new actuator will most likely NOT line up when you first put it on - you have to run the temperature control up and down until the new one fits into place. Total time spent was probably 5-6 hours...but I saved $1200
Thank you for sharing this technique. Accomplished this repair successfully. Note that it may be near impossible to use a non-motorcraft part due to the thickness of aftermarket replacements.
Used recipicating saw to cut off top of duct featured prominately at frame 6:02 on passenger side. Allows room to slip down & slide out & slide new actuater back in. If done this way, don't think you would need to mess with driver side at all. Still need to "loosen" up console for some finger room. Worked very well considering very tight spot & cutting does not affect air flow but I saved top just in case It affected thermostats or some other in foreseen side effects. If so, a screw or two from the bottom should do. Tested wth hour drive no problems & nice heat. Still had to break off back screw eyelet. Had both top & bottom go out. Replaced both without replacing the back impossible reach screws. If they go out again, should be a half hour job either way. Beats the 1200 mechanic cost to replace them with no guarantee. 2010 wth 42k. I know a lot of you are ford men but I was hoping for a few more problem free miles!
Thank you so much for this video. I was able to change the actuator and reset the climate control. The climate control is functioning properly now without clicking.
I have a 2010 KR and I assume the platinum is the same. There is more to this fix than the video shows only b/c of add'l duct work/complexity. The add'l ducting from underneath the dash down the center tunnel then splits to under the driver and passenger seat. Do everything as shown and starting around the 5:30 mark of this video, you then need to remove both seats with either a breaker bar and or a mallet, both will work. When you take the screws out, the front and rear are different length but i still made sure to note which screw L & R i had to put back as is. Pull back the seats to the rear of the cab, now you can pull the carpet up and fold it over the seats. The ducting is held in by a push type screw at the end of the duct under each seat, remove each of those and you can then jiggle out the ducting as one and take it out of the cab. Now, as you continue to follow the video, and you get to 6:32 of the video, if you own a KR or platinum, you will have to break that long tube you took a screw out of b.c you cannot push down enough b/c of the extra ducting. I just took a long pliers and one good twist it came off, you make make a hole in the box, no fear, put it back w/super glue at the end. Now, you really don't see how the part comes out and i will tell you i basically had to break it into multiple pieces and then most importantly to get it unclipped from the wiring. Eventually, w/some patience, you'll get the old part out. Take a break. Putting it back in you have to be more careful obviously. Take your time trying to get the wiring connected. You can get some slack out of it, but not enough to clip it in outside of the area it's intended to go into. If you have sausage fingers/hands fine someone w/skinny fingers, i got the wife. Once connected, you will have to pry w/all your might to get this part it, and wiggle and jiggle. I finally got it in the area but couldn't get the gear in the hole, so i turned the truck on and adjusting the air/heat temp it was turning the gear so then i was able to get it to seat properly. Now, put everything back in the way it came out. For the part your broke off, nows the time to super glue it back and w/everything the way it is the pressure holds everything just fine. I torqued the seat bolts back to 42ft/lb each. While i had the seats out, i vacuumed the seat vent filters also.
RickRoush03 see my post 12/3. Had the same question and assumed seat and duct removal was needed but ventured on wth new approach. No seat dash or duct removal.....
Thank you for the video. Replaced the drivers side motor on 2008 Expedition EB. Helped to get a set of pry bars from Harbor Freight to remove the last piece of duct from under the actuator. Now I have heat before winter sets in!
Thanks for the video! I just replaced mine this weekend on my 2012 F150 Platinum, and it took me about 4 hours. What a pain (especially the electrical connector), but it was better than pulling the entire dash!
Thanks a million for your video, did it today on my 09 Lariat, had to break that support post to get anything to move in or out.Blowing nice cool air so far :) In case you ever come to Edmonton, Alberta, Canada I'd like to buy you a beer or two :) Cheers
Great video. Just did this on my 2008 Expedition. There are a few minor differences. First the center console as an extra screw under the change holder that has to be remove. There are also three wiring harnesses that have to be unplugged on the Expedition and they are inside the center console. You will have to disconnect and move the duct work that goes to the back seat in order to get to the actuator. It really wasn't to terribly hard or a job. I would say the most difficult part was reinstalling the actuator. Make sure to use a little pressure to get it back into place. And you will have to break the back tab on the old actuator to get it out and don't worry about installing it on the new one, you won't need to.
Thanks for the helpful vids, this one especially. I was able to get both screws out by using a bottle jack in the passenger floor board to hold up on the evap housing. The extra room allowed the lower duct to swing enough to access the screw. Thanks again for the saved time!
Just wanted to give thanks on this video, helped me tremendously on my 2012 Platinum. I have rear air so instead of pulling the dash, I elected to pull the seats and retract the carpet to remove the rear air assembly. I did the job over the weekend (10 hours total over two days). I removed the passenger side screw to the actuator but had to break the drivers eyelet off just like the video. I could not fish out that actuator though, had to cut the pillar in front of it and then I had to ask my wife to connect the plug once the new part was installed. Put some closed cell foam underneath it to compensate for the pillar being removed and only one screw on the actuator. Any tips installing the plug on the lower actuator would be welcome because I have a feeling, based on the corrosion of the old part, I will be doing this again at some point. I also changed the passenger actuator even though it wasn't bad as that takes roughly 45 minutes to one hour.
what do you mean by pillar? the shafts of the actuator? I also pulled my seats, and I am currently fighting the boxes that sandwich the actuator. good call on doing both while your there.
I just finished this repair - had to do the exact same thing as jjvirginia. Was going to post a note to warn others as the video kind of leaps over that little challenge, then saw this. I don't see any way I could have gotten the old actuator out or new one in with that pillar in the way. I cut the pillar off then was able to pry the heater box and the lower duct far enough apart to fish out the old actuator. Plugging in the new one is indeed a bear, I was able to pull some slack out of the wiring and do it. I also broke off the driver screw ear removing the old actuator just like in the video. Mistake I made was failing to remove the old broken ear and the screw. I installed the new actuator, plugged in the wiring, then could not get the new actuator to mate with the heater box because the old screw was hitting the ear on the new actuator and preventing it from going all the way in. Took it all back out (@#$%^&*), backed the driver's side screw out with an 8mm open end, took off the broken ear, then reinstalled the new motor. I only have the screw on the passenger side holding it in just like the video. Hopefully that will hold it in, I sure don't want to do all that again.
I've got a 2010 Expedition KR. Everything was pretty much as he said, a few extra pieces inside the console but not too bad. The only thing he really didn't go over was how to remove the wiring from the back of the actuator. Since the wires are not very long you will have to remove the connector while it is still wedged between the ducts. There is a red locking tab that has to come out before you can remove the connector. AKJeeper has a video where he removes the tab and connector and it shows it really well. If I hadn't seen that video I would either still be there trying to get it removed or I would have broken the wires I'm sure. I used some small picks from harbor freight to slide the locking tab out from the side and then squeezed my finger behind the unit to depress the bottom tab while again using the pick to push the connector out. All in all it took me about 4 hours or two days to get it finished but I saved a ton of money.
Tried this on my 2010 Fx4 5.4L. There's not enough room to pull actuator out. I probably could've done this job faster by taking out the entire dash. That being said, I did watch your video on the passenger side actuator replacement which works fine. I decided to change both at the same time as I believe they were both malfunctioning. But now my problem is that I have to tear apart the dash without the radio etc in it, just to finish the job. It's a brutal feeling knowing that only 1/2 inch of space is the deal breaker.
Did this today on a lariat. It’s a little more work if it has rear a/c vents. If you loosen all the hvac box hardware inside and out. Wedge a prybar on the trans tunnel up on the hvac box and hold with some block of wood you can get in their. It still really sucks though.
I did it in 5 hours. I had to break a tab and one support post. The screws near the fire wall impossible to reach with this method, however the vid was a great tutor. Dealer wanted $800.
I usually love your videos too - but you left out some key things that need to happen. The front seats need to be removed so you can get the floor vents out. There is also a hidden screw in the back. Why didn’t you show more detail? Usually your videos cover it all
Hey Sean, I have a 2010 Platinum with center console (removed, as well as seats carpet and floor ducts for rear removed). Where is the hidden screw, and did you have to break the plastic vertical post on passenger side in order to get the actuator out? Lastly, did you have to break the eyelet on old actuator on drivers side and then remove old screw, and not replace new screw? Thanks in advance.
Great video you are my go to for all my Ford repairs! Thank You I have a late 2014 F 150 12/14 production my blend door was mounted by the throttle assembly.
Wow, that was a difficult process. Could not remove the actuator because the vent tube for the seats was preventing removal. Had to remove the seats, cut the carpet in the center console area, pull it apart and remove the screw holding each side down under the seats. This allowed me to pull it out of the way for removal. Like others, had to cut away the fins on the right side so that my fingers could hold the connector for insertion in the new actuator. Doesn't seem like a great fit but I think it's working. 8 hours. Fingers all cut up. Glad it's over!
Great video my friend. Just doing a little homework before looking at one today with a drivers side no heat complaint. Thank you! If i do film it, it'll definitely give you a mention.
@@FordTechMakuloco do you still need to break the one ear off in the expedition? Thanks buddy! I don't think I will be doing the repair anyway, asking for my brother.
Will be doing driver side on a 13 expedition shortly after getting it back from having heater core replaced. Should have replaced both then but didn't know this was common. Love your videos.
Good day Sir. Nice video. Have you ever replaced the refresh door? My door just broke and don't want to pull the dash out. Do you have an easier way to replace that resurculation door galation door thanks in advance
Good presentation and info. I own a 2010 F150 and both of my actuators went south. I was able to replace the upper one by removing the center section and was going to try what you have done for the lower. You just verified my thoughts on the access. As a working tech, I have done the most of the big 3 heater actuators and things do not change much... engineering on these still sucks. Hopefully the Dorman replacements I procured will last this life of the truck (wishful thinking). Thanks!
I had this same issue but no clicking sound. I removed the front seats, the console, rolled the front carpet back to get at the floor duct. Then I successfully got the bad actuator removed and a new one reinstalled as shown in the video. I did decide to bust off the screw tower in the way of actuator as I didn't see any other way to get it out and back in again otherwise. I propped the assembly up with cardboard after I had installed the new part.Patience is the key for sure, especially when you are trying to connect the plug in the back. I found that if you sort of line up the connector pigtail where you think the female end will end up once you get it in then you can just barely get your finger back there to help line it up. The male end has a stopper behind it so you can just push in on the new actuator and it should click right in. I also had to disassemble the old actuator for the gear that protrudes out to use as a tool so I could line my heater door up with the orientation of the new part. Confused? You'll get it. My heater is working great again for about $40 instead of 12-1500. It took me about 5 hours with down time for beer.
So I need this done on my 2012 F150 Platinum and I don't have the time to do the work myself. Is there other components that commonly fail in this area that I should have the mechanic replace while he has the dash torn apart?
I have a 2009 F150 Lariat. I have heat on passenger's side but on driver's side it stays cold. It doesn't make a clicking noise at all. Is this the same part that needs replacing?Thanks!
First, Thanks for all your helpful video's. I have a 2012 f150 platinum. If the new actuator goes all way around without being mounted, is it ruined? Couldn't get alignment , so had to bump key switch to rotate keyway to correct position on actuator. Went full revolution clockwise. Never went counter, even adjusting temp on control panel...always clockwise no matter if hot or cold was called for.
2010 Ford F-150 Lariat screw lower door clicking and stuck at 90 on drivers side i ordered the part it will arrive monday will be trying this method out hopefully all goes well!
Decided to remove the dash to do it right to avoid cutting and replaced the actuator but it didn’t change. I have a code B11F0:11 -Air Intake Damper Position Sensor: Circuit Short to Ground. Any suggestions? Driver side stuck on heat
If you put the difficult-to-replace screw in the hole and then used either (1) a small speed clip washer or (2) a very small O-ring on the threaded side of the screw to keep it from falling out, and if you used the special thin-profile 8 mm wrench (the one you fabricated to get to the back screw on the top actuator, behind the radio), could you have easily screwed the second screw in without relying on the pressure of the ductwork to hold the actuator in place? Making and using that special 8 mm wrench made all the difference to me in putting in the second screw on the top actuator. This was a very helpful video for those of us with Ford trucks with aging and failing AC actuators. My 2010 Expedition has a number of clicking ones, which I am gradually replacing. Thanks for this and all of your excellent videos; they really help the average Ford owner and the shade tree mechanics out here.
Thanks for the video. I Figured that way would be the best way then to pull all apart. But this was definitely useful, got one coming in this week should be fun.
My 2012 f150 either goes to 60 and is cold but I pick up the temp to 65 and it goes to full heater I just replaced the actuator behind the radio not to long ago. Would u happen to know what the issue might be or is it again the blend door actuator ?
Thanks dude! Your video plus all the comments helped me sail right through this complex task. However when I pulled back the carpet I discovered my ac drain was leaking into the cab on my 2009 F150. I don't see even the stub of a hose on the outside?
Looks like I'm going to have to try this your way, only cold air on the driverside of my 2010 Lariat...I'm not paying the dealer to do it, thanks, for the video!!
This can be done but it is not pretty. I did it and took me about 5 hours. You must remove the two front seats and pull the carpet back and remove the floor duct work. Its not hard but something that is necessary. Also the plug behind the actuator is a pain. It is not easy to get out. I pulled on the old one accidentally and broke the retainers off. Luckily the new actuator accepted the plug with no problem. Still better that pulling the dash and the 12-1500 the dealers are getting for this job. Having a second hand is also recommended.
Everett Caudle I was defeated today when I realized I needed to pull the seats to get the rear ducting out of the way. If I decide to try again, will I be able to see the blend motor once I pull it out of the way? I couldn't see anything doing it in the way of the video.
I have a 2010 expedition king ranch. Once i turn on the vehicle i can hear the clicking noise even though the heater nor air conditioner is on. I checked the blend actuator behind the stereo, it was fine.The problem is once i turn on the heater or air conditioner and begin to change the temp, just like on this video you posted it begins to click again. Do you believe its the same actuator as in this video and would it be located in the same place.
2010 ford F150 5.4L no cold air on driver side I think will be lower blend door actuator, does the BCM will have code for this actuator? I will scan it to see if it does, thank you for the video, sure is a lot better them remove the dash..
OK, great video. I changed my actuator out in a 2009 F150. Went to the fuse panel on passenger side foot well and there are several 15 amp fuses. How do I determine which one to pull for reset or calibration ? Thanks for your reply.
Update, turns out that when the blend door actuator failed, it also impacted the dashboard heater controller, too. I replaced the heater controller with a used one from a wreck, and all works fine again. So, if you have an blend door actuator failure, and upon replacement, things still don't work properly, look into whether the heater controller is also faulty. I purchased a controller for about $45, where the new replacement is about $400, so you can save yourself some money if you find one used. It was frustrating to go through all the effort to replace the lower actuator only to have it still not work properly, but thanks to one of the posts from down deep in this thread, I thought to also replace the controller which had also been impacted by the actuator failure. I followed video here for the most part and sawed off the post like others had described to get the old actuator out. I installed the new actuator with one bolt, put some rubber weather stripping between the vent and the actuator to hold it in place, re-installed the one bolt that could be reached and all looks good. I glued back the post that I had sawed off and everything is going back together pretty well. It's been a beast of a job, but in the end it all is good. $37 for the new actuator, plus $45 for the used controller and I'm set. Had I brought it to the dealer, I'd be looking at more than $1500 for parts and labor.
Thanks for your videos. I have a 2012 F150 Lariat with dual AC. The drivers side puts out heat and the passenger side is cold even when I raise the temperature. There are two actuators apparently. The lower one is for the drivers side and the upper is for the passenger side. Is this correct? Since I'm having a problem with the passenger side, do I only need to replace the upper actuator?
I am having this problem now in my 11' king ranch F150 but it is coming from passenger side of the center console. is that a different blend door actuator and if so do you have a link to replacing that one? TIA
I got a whole new ac kit in my truck & it blows cold when driving but cool when idle I got it flushed about 3 times cause that’s what most mechanic thinks it needs to be flushed any suggestions
Hey there, I have an f150 lariat 2011 that had the clicking noise when I turned on the a/c, then I disconnected the battery and pulled fuses to try to reset everything... Biggest mistake ever, it now clicks non stop regardless if the air is even on! If the key is turned it clicks even with the air off, same issue you think? What a pain, I have to blast music to drown it out before I go crazy :). Thanks man
Will this keep the cold air from blowing! Just left shop and they said its not the acruator behind radio that keeping the cold air from blowing. It does need to be replaced because it is clicking.
I don't suspect there was any issues that appeared later on but i'm asking just because A buddies truck has the same issue and I can get away with cutting that tab off it will save time from removing the dash
couldn't get the bottom one out the same way you did her on a 2010 F150 lariat dual climate control and center console.ended up just taking the dash out (which btw is not hard as I thought to begin with lol) replace three of them except for the air inlet/recirculation actuator
Hello! Can you share a you tube video that is similar to what you did? I have the same truck, not excited about removing the floor carpets and center console...
+FordTechMakuloco Thank you so much for the video’s you do a great job on them all…I have a question does this video also work on a 2012 f150 ecoboost platinum…it just turned 39,000 and is just blowing cold air out the drivers side the right side is working fine I can actually here it moving somewhat, but as far as the right side goes it doesn’t make any noise at all the temperature just goes up and down from 60-90 without making any noise at all…could it be possible that a fuse is blowed the reason i’m no hearing anything…any advice will be deeply appreciated…PS…do you know the part # for the bottom one if that’s what the problem is right off hand if not don’t worry about it….thanks
Lee Hilty there are two elements in the seat. When you are sitting; one is below your butt and one is on the back. The butt one usually fails. It would have heated up really hot a couple of times before failing if it is the butt element. If this is the case simply replace the lower element.
Thanks SO, SO, SO much for your video. It was the only one that has the detail needed to get this done. I have a 2012 F150 Lariat with center console (rear air). This just saved me $1000 and makes it easier to swap it out if it goes bad again. Plus I now have the confidence to rip apart my truck under-dash with speed! To help pay it forward, I'm going to try to give everyone the details of my experience.
I ordered the Motorcraft YH1933 motor suggested and its the right one for my truck. I spent about 8 hours doing this process a week ago and discovered I couldnt get the old motor out without cutting and didnt want to take the chance with a hacksaw that I had. I also knew the power connector would be unreachable with anything I had on hand. Sadly, put it all back together and prepared to take it to a shop perhaps (NOO!). Then I thought: if I just had the right tools for those two steps and my new experience (saving much time next time) I could probably get it done now.
The extra stuff I bought (at Harbor Freight ) to make this work out was an oscillating tool (plastic removal) Item #63113, set of 4 pry bars Item #1654, a some curved locking pliers item#65711. Got them all for $42 after various coupons (and another free tape measure!). Also, use an air ratchet on the seat bolts if you have one and a drill with socket connector for the 7mm screws where possible (will need a long, thin extension on some). This will not only save you time, but energy you WILL NEED for the motor removal. I like to play it somewhat safe so motor removal itself took several hours just so I could be sure I wouldnt crack anything or break the wiring.
Things I had already on hand: Pry tools for trim. 15mm (seats) and 7mm (all else) sockets. Socket wrench extensions. Shallow socket wrench: Already had one or would have bought this too (someone recommended one). This was great to have sometimes, but the open/closed end 7mm wrench worked too and was also sometimes necessary. Of course, air ratchet, lights, drill with socket attachment, screwdrivers.
Here is a detailed procedure while its still fresh in my mind. Credits to advice given by various people here (thank you all!):
1. Unbolt the 4 bolts on both front seats, slide seats back as far as cables go, dont have to disconnect them, just move them back out of the way.
2. Remove small grommet on carpet found under seats holding rug down (optional but makes things easier to remove the under carpet vent).
3. Remove covers on either side of console. On the sides of console, remove a screw front and back on each side (black front, back silver).
4. Pop the top cover off the shifter area (move shifter to N or D to get this out) and remove the shifter as explained in video (4 screws, 1 power, 1 cable that pops off of pin and plastic that slides up).
5. Remove the two screws holding console to dash, remove two power cables on passenger footwell area, then slide console back and remove.
6. Remove center metal silver support bracket that was just revealed by removing console (4 screws).
7. Detach two power cables attached to small center duct and remove center duct by just pulling/wiggling.
8. Remove door sill plates then peel back the carpet and lay it on the seats. Someone said they had to cut the carpet but I see no reason to if you removed the metal silver support. You can now see the under seat air ducts.
9. Remove 1 plastic anchor on each side of under carpet duct, lift entire duct up and slide towards the back seat to remove (a little at a time on each side helps make it easier).
10. Remove both metal side dash supports for easy access to area around the motor/vents.
11. Remove all silver screws you can see holding lower section. There were about 3 on the drivers side, 1 on the passenger side (tower). Also, one more for the motor itself later.
12. Remove the plastic tower blocking removal of the motor (use an oscillating tool for easy work here). You can glue it back or just leave it out and support the plastic ducts later with some rubber/cloth/closed cell foam.
13. Pry out the motor area from both sides with lots of large pry bars. Pry down on motor (for forever it seems) until the unreachable screw mount snaps. This took a while and I thought it would never snap but it will!
14. Wiggle the motor most of the way out (drive gear should just come out of area, this takes a while too) then reach back with picks/hemostat to unlock/disconnect power connector as this is as far as it will go safely. Remember, there is a locking slide AND a locking lever on the power connector you have to press as you push it off motor. I broke the locking slide off, no loss there. Pushing the lever in while removing is hard to do since the lever is on the bottom of that dang connector. Remove motor the rest of way once the cable is disconnected.
15. Now remove that dang screw on the broken part of the motor mount.
16. Mark where old motor front spline is, compare to new motor position, remove old motor spline from case and use as a tool to align the vent door.
17. Now just wiggle in your new motor and use the curved locking pliers (hemostat) to hold/push power connector in until it clicks. Should line right up if you did the previous step right.
18-??. Install motor and test it a little to be sure its fixed. The put in screws and reverse all the above, pull fuse 46, etc...
Good Luck!
When doing blend doors on crown Vics and town cars we would loosen that back bolt a 1/4 turn. After removing/prying the old one out of course. Then cut a slot in the screw hole on the actuator. Then drop/slide the new one in to the rear, and tighten down the easy bolt.
I just did my 2012 expedition and this video helped a lot. Took 4 hours. The procedure is very similar for Expedition, but I did have to break the plastic tab that sticks down right by the actuator. Getting the new actuator in was the most challenging part. Thank you for this helpful video, you have saved several people hundreds of dollars.
Okay, so I wound up replacing both the upper and lower. Symptoms were: clicking noise passenger's side(upper) and no heat or cool on the driver's side(lower). The upper one was easy enough once I removed the radio. The lower one's a different story. I used the hack as outlined in the video for removing the old one by breaking, actually sawing through, the back eyelet. The one thing I didn't quite pickup in the video was your comment on whether you'd be able to get the new lower actuator back in and seated properly, and that really turned into a job. Total time for both actuators was right at 8.5 hours, but I wasn't in a hurry. Really appreciate all your videos, I've used many of them and they're spot on.
I replaced my drivers side blend door actuator on my 2010 F150 Lariat last night in my driveway, I was actually pretty quick as I watched the video about a dozen times and decided to go for the "hack" method. the truck has 190,000 km (Ontario Canada) on it and was not spending $1000.00+ on it. breaking the actuator free wasn't too hard, the difficulties I encountered were removing it from its location. I ended up breaking off a support post which was in the way that holds up the lower duct. I used Loctite 454 to glue it back in. It all went together fine and works great. If it wasn't for your videos I wouldn't have tried it. Oh yeah, total time from start to finish was just over 2 hrs. I love my truck my truck again. I replaced it with a Ford one, $51.00, I figured it lasted this long, hopefully it lasts 2 more years as I want the new 2017 F150 engine boost with the 10 speed auto.
Keep the videos coming, I tell all my friends about how helpful they are.
I replaced my driver side actuator it took me about 5 hours and I had to break a post support and one tab but I saved $800
First, thanks for the video! I know this takes time and effort for you to do and I appreciate it tremendously - I learn a lot from your channel!
I have a 2013 Expedition Limited with Electronic DATC. My driver's side (LH) blend door is in the same location HOWEVER there is not as much space between the bottom of the floor duct and the vehicle body to pry a large enough space to remove the actuator. In addition to the steps in the video, here's what I had to do:
1. At 2:03, center console removal is different (see below link).
2. Remove DATC panel, and lower panel including Trailer Brake Control unit.
3. Cut out the pillar that connects to the floor duct shown @ 6:07
4. Break the 2nd mounting clip as shown @7:22 and cut out the mounting pillar for that side.
5. Remove old actuator by prying apart the two ducts as mentioned and sliding out through space created from Steps 3 & 4.
6. Reinstall the new actuator (Doorman part 604-252 @ $25 - Advance Auto Parts) with only ONE screw as shown in video and placing VERY thick foam between actuator and floor duct AND between floor duct and vehicle body to hold everything in place.
CAUTION, CAUTION, CAUTION!!!!!!!!!!!!
The connector is on the REAR of this actuator (front of vehicle side). The wire harness for this actuator is VERY short and you can NOT remove the actuator without unplugging the harness FIRST! One of the most difficult parts of this job was reinstalling the connector in the rear with the actuator "partially" pushed into place as there is only room to do it "one handed".
Took me about 8 hours to do this as I tried several things before cutting out pillars in steps 3 & 4 above when I finally realized that was necessary for me to be able to remove the actuator.
It was closer to 10 hours if you count the swearing and praying.
This was definitely a hack job but I was able to replace the actuator without removing the whole dash!
The below link has harness drawing, DATC schematic, DATC removal, TBC removal, center console removal and lower blend door actuator removal from my 2013 Expedition shop manual. GOOD LUCK!
www.dropbox.com/sh/brvw1rh9kmg4dd0/AACfPj7drHz1ipInv6UBp-D7a?dl=0
@kirkmathews5706 here's what I posted
Just wanted to say I love your videos. they have been a big help. I tackled the drivers side blend door, the bottom hard one, and the only issue I had was lining up the gears. I wanted to pass along how I fixed it.
knowing the grear is keyed to that larger open space. when I removed the old one that space was at the 2 o'clock spot. the new one was at the arrow at 12 o'clock. I took apart the old one , marked with sharpe opposite the side of the gear from the large keyed gear. lined it up to 2 o'clock went right in then turned it to 12 o'clock. the new part then inserted like a champ. As you know there is no wiggle room to move the new part to line up the gears.
just wanted to pass the hint to others. I now have it working great. Thank you for videos.
GC
I wonder if there is a temperature I should set the controller at before disassembly to line up the splines for the replacement better (vs manually moving it to 12 o’clock).
God bless you sir. your channel has helped me repair so many ford issues. im a toyota repair guy so im so glad your channel is here
I watched this video about 30 times, and then went in with my own approach.
I did not remove the center console. Instead, I went in through the passenger footwell, removed all of the 8mm screws/bolts necessary to reach the actuator. I then pried down on it and broke the rear screw hole off. Then, I took an oscillating tool and cut off the long post that's right in the way, and the extra plastic fins which don't affect airflow at all. After that I was able to pry the old unit out, which became disconnected from the wiring in the process. I had to pry like there was no tomorrow. But like this dude says, the ducts are super flexible, just slowly apply more pressure.
Getting the new one hooked up was kind of a bear, but doable. I had my pry bar held up with 2x4 chunks so that I could use both hand while hooking up the wiring. Some wiggling, repositioning, and curse words later, the wiring harness clicked in!
Now I just had to shimmy it into place. This too required an awful lot of pressure, but eventually slid into the right spot,
But then the actuator gear wasn't lined up with the interior workings of the hvac box. I simply turned the key to the on position, and ran the thermostat up and down while applying upward pressure to the unit. When the gears lined up, it slid right into place.
I put it all back together, used some Gorilla super glue to put the peg back into place, pulled the fuse for one minute, installed fuse, recalibrated the blend doors, and BOOM!
My truck is now super warm and the thermostat responds when I change the temp!
Thanks for the video!! This saved me about $1200!
I'm there right now God I hate it what a bitch .
Just finished...all day (with a super bowl break). What a bitch! My hands look like a cat scratched them up from all the prying and manipulating around the brackets and duct work. Beer Earned!
I'm trying not to take my whole dash out. Did you pry that bolt that's behind lower passenger vent off?
The cat scratches are usually a given just opening the hood anyway, right? Lol😄
Excellent Video. Different trucks have different stuff to remove. I have a 2010 F150 Super Crew Cab Lariat with AC Seats and dual climate control. I have a thru air center console with console shifter. I had to remove both front seats, center console, shifter, remove all front carpet and remove the HVAC duct work that runs under the carpet and seat + all the stuff you had to remove. It was a royal pain and took me 6hrs. I could do it in 4 hrs next time. I also had to cut one front mounting post out of the way with a hack saw blade and I also did not use that back screw like you did in the video. Its totally non issue since there is so much stuff crammed down there it will not move. Everything works now and I have full heat and AC! Thanks a lot.
Hello! Was that the YH1933 that you replaced? did you replace more than one actuator? Did you buy the Motorcraft brand? thanks !
@@etiennehui2426 Yes I replaced YH1933 and it was factory OEM Motorcraft. I only replaced the one driver side control. The other ones work fine still.
Thanks !! @@mikefr24
His had all that as well he just didn't show it in the video.
Thanks for sharing this video.. I'm a GM technician so I don't see a lot of Ford vehicles but I used this on my buddy's wife's expedition and was able to repair it and saved hours and hundreds of dollars. Thanks again!!!
THANK YOU! I ended up replacing both actuators, and a Blower Motor resister, and it's good to go now. I also had to remove the seats, and pull the carpet back to remove the duct under the seats. With small sharp flathead screwdriver, I was able to snap the eyelet off the back side where you can't get to the screw, by pressing against it, giving it a few light hammer blows and letting the screwdriver cut through the support.. I ended up sawing off the top of the old actuator nub, and then breaking all the clips around the sides of the actuator and prying it open a bit, to allow the connector to slide right off the back, with a little light wiggling. I also ended up sawing the one long support coming down from the box that blocks the actuator, but not completely through; I used a jigsaw blade to go mostly through, flush with the top, and then left the back side along the top in back connected. That allowed me to leave it partially connected, and move it out of the way. Once the actuator was out, I looked at the new one to see how it lined up, then in inserted the sawed off piece to position the hole just right (don't push it too far up though, it could get stuck in there. The crazy part...to ensure I could get the connector plugged back into the new one, I cut a pair of chopsticks in half, the cheap wood kind that come with your Chinese food, that are still connected at the non-food end. Keep them connected, which allows you to slightly pry open the chopsticks, and slide the two 'poles' on either side of the wiring harness, right up agains the connector housing. The chopsticks pinch it just enough, that you can then grab the end with your fingers from the back, and then maneuver the clip into the back end of the new actuator, once you slide it back in. Once in, some super glue to keep the partially cut long support coming down from the box, a folded piece of cardboard under the duct, to keep it tight - as you can't replace the back screw - button everything back up, good to go.
Just completed this quite a PITA, but got it done in ~2hrs with lots of rewatching YT videos and saved myself a lot of $$. Heating/cooling works as it should again! Thanks.
FIrst off let me say that without this video, I would have pulled the entire dash out on my 2012 Ford F150 FX4. I did what the video shows and it saved me hours of time. I have heat blowing on the driver side again. Woohoo. However, DO NOT ATTEMPT THIS WITHOUT READING EVERYONE'S COMMENTS. This is probably the most incomplete video I have found on TH-cam and certainly from this publisher.
Tools recommended: 1/4" ratchet, 8mm socket, 8mm combo, straight probe and ideally a curved one or custom bend a small long skinny blade screwdriver (to remove the wire from the actuator). The seats will need lots of torque since the bolts will be rusted, so a 1/2 ratchet/breaker bar and a 19mm socket 1/2" drive (risky with 3/8" drives).
First off I never heard the noise demonstrated in the video. Other videos from FordTechMakuloco will show you why you won't. If you have a vent to the rear seat, you have to remove both front seats to get the vent removed. You have to at least pull the carpet back to the front seats - shown but not demonstrated. The video does not demonstrate the crucial part of removing the actuator. That took a couple hours of fiddling. Others explain, but let me say you have to be patient. Take 15 minutes and try pulling the wire out of the defroster/lower heat blend door, found easily on the driver's side of the vent housing. It is exactly the same process found on this actuator. You just have to do it blind.
Also, cut the main support arm off as many below suggest. You'll never get the actuator out, much less remove the cord. 2x4 propping the pry bar while removing and ultimately putting the wire back in the new actuator is recommended. Crazy glue or epoxy to glue it back on. Its easier to position the support by starting the screw before gluing it back in place. Shim(s) to go under the vent when you are done, just because that support arm relies on glue
Just be patient, go slowly and you will get it. It is worth the time and money saved. Good luck!!
A friend and I tackled this on my 2012 Raptor. Gave up the first time but went back and took out the seats and pulled back the carpet to remove the rear duct work for better access. I'm too big to get under the dash, plus arthritic hands make it worse, but my friend is younger, stronger, smaller, and very patient. It took several hours to unhook the wire, remove and replace the motor, and reconnect the wire, but we got it finally. I briefly removed the fuse as advised and now the AC works fine.
Thanks for the video Brother. Worked great on my 2011 F150. I put a dab of super glue on the missed screw. Worked like a charm. Thank you for the alternative method. A few hours, as many beers and a couple trips to the store for tools later and the drivers side is icy cold. Thanks again for posting this, dash removal is beyond my expertise. You saved me a few hundred. I’d buy you a beer if you were in CO.
Thank you sir! I was experiencing similar issues with no change in temp on driver’s side. I did not have the clicking so I was not 100% certain this actuator was the cause. I had it professionally diagnosed by a local A/C service shop that confirmed the problem but they would not touch it...too big of a job. I called the local Ford Dealer who quoted $1,300 in labor and about $40 for the part. After rewatching your video...I got the part from Amazon last week for less that $30 and took care of the job yesterday in my 2010 Expedition in about 5-6 hours!
This video is really well done and helpful. It is a lot of work and you need to make sure to take out as many screws and bolts as possible, as mentioned. If you have a flow through consul with floor vents under the front seats, then there is a step that this video misses. After working for about an hour and no luck, I figured out that I needed to remove the front seats, the carpet, and the vent ducts. This isn't a lot of extra work but their are 4 bolts per seat that may be rusted on and difficult to turn. I removed the bolts and slid the seats back while leaving the power to the seats connected. With all of the junk out of the way, I could access the area and shift the venting around enough to actually get the part out. The next difficult step was plugging the wire harness into the new actuator. I had to have my wife help me so that I could hold the wiring in place and she could push the actuator in. The next difficult step was to get the splines on the shaft to line up with the socket in the actuator. Mine was off and I tried to force it for about 45 minutes. After a lot of depression and thoughts of giving up, I decided to turn on the system and adjust the temperature to see if that would help. As I adjusted the temp dial, I pushed up on the actuator. The motor turned the shaft and it easily slipped into place. Everything went back together pretty well. All in, I spent 6 hours on this project. Gratifying when it is done and happy to save $800 but wow it's a lot of frustrating work.
All the same for me as well. Removed seats, carpet, and under carpet duct work. Aligning the spline was an issue for me as well so I took apart the old actuator and removed the old spline gear. I used that to align the blend door by hand to match the new actuator. Worked like a charm and the new one slipped in easy. I also had trouble with that plug! I could not get it out and had to make a special tool with a hook on the end to click the release. Also took me 6hrs. What a pain!! Everything works perfect now
I just finished the install. It went exactly as show and explained in the video except no matter how much I pried on the duct work, I couldn't get the old one out, so like others, I cut off the bracket in front. Since I couldn't get the second screw in either, I wedged the duct work with cardboard to help keep it in place. Great install hack, glad I tried it. Took me about 2.5 hours. THANKS.
Just finished up doing my drivers side blend door. Thank you so much for the video!! Also a big thanks out to a few people that told about getting the duct work out and removing the seats! The job took me all day... was scared of destroying something. Ended up finally getting done.
Great video! I just tackled this beast today.. It took me two days, but that was due to my schedule.. It was probably a total of 7-8 hours, with at least 5.5-6 of that yesterday getting to the piece, removing it & placing the new one in. Today was putting it all back together.. Let me just say, it was a beast of a job. I have a 2012 lariat with flow through floor vents to the rear. There is much more duct work involved with that than seen here. I could see how the full dash removal would be the better option, but I was already knuckles deep before I realized it & wasn't looking to change my game plan. I completely removed one mounting bracket for the lower duct work, it was directly in front of the actuator & no other way to remove it. Replaced the part, and ducts were very secure minus the one screw. Honestly, I don't think I ever want to do it again & if it's an option, I'd trade it on something else lol. I do love my truck & like most, had a hard time spending 800-1200 for a $30 part.
I just completed this about 2wks ago and watched this video as well as another more in-depth dash board removal TH-cam video. I wanted to post some words of wisdom to the next person who may try to do this and get in over their heads (like I felt at one point). I would classify myself as pretty handy as I have worked on many of my cars in the past from full suspension upgrades to electrical and car audio/video upgrades so I'm not a rookie to getting in the weeds even though this was my first dash removal.
#1: try the #15 fuse reset process PRIOR to doing any of this. My actuator wasn't actually clicking even though it still wasn't working prior to me changing it out. I didn't do this and wondered afterward if it just needed to be reset. If this is the "real" problem, it takes no money and 5mins of your time to check the box.
#2: you can't, I REPEAT, CAN'T remove, and most importantly reinstall, the lower actuator without removing the dash. I attempted this for several hours over 2 days prior to realizing that I needed to bite the bullet and remove the dash. If you're not up to ripping your truck apart and putting it back together, take it to the dealership.
#3: do yourself a favor and replace both actuators...even if you take it to the dealership (just don't let them charge you any extra labor...literally takes 10secs for the top actuator with the dash removed). I ordered 1 initially and waited and extra 2 days for the other to get delivered via Amazon because you definitely don't want to do this again.
Now, with all that said, having actually "figuring it out" once I do feel confident that I could do it again and save myself about $1,000 again, but I wouldn't be happy at all.
If you decide to go for it, be patient and keep track of all your screws and connections...Good Luck!
Sorry it didn't work for you, but I just replace one without removing the dash. If you just cut the plastic leg off that sticks down in front of actuator and pry duct down it is possible. Not easy but I just did it.
Jeff Mellinger how long did this take!
Awesome! THanks for the video! Just a few things that I didn't catch in the video that I had to do. 1. Remove seats to pull back carpet and take out ductwork that runs to rear seats. 2. There is a mounting stud in front of the actuator that needs to be there, I just trimmed up one of the fins on it in order to slide out the actuator. 3. I used a set of forceps from HarborFreight to hold the electrical connector and to slide it in.
Other than that, thank you again!
Hey thanks a lot for the video. Got the job done today a little over 3hrs and I couldn't have done it with out this video. Kudos!!
I did exactly everything you did in the video and I got it out and the new one in. Took 6 hours, but the drivers side vents have its full range of temperature back again! One thing not mentioned is the vent for the back floors needs to come out which means removing the front seats and pulling the carpet back to access the screws securing the vent to the floor. There is A LOT of prying on the different plastic vents down under the dash and prying it hard is the only way to slide the blender motor in and out. Also, it is impossible to get the last screw into the new blender housing, that's all the way back towards the drivers side, so I ignored it. I left it with only one screw keeping it in place with no problems at all!!
Daniel Frank I cut the vents and duct taped them back. Lol.it was a he'll of a lot of work for a $42 item
Thanks for the video. I did this job on my 2010 F150 King Ranch. My truck has rear air, so I ended up having to take the bolts out of the seats and laying them back. I had to pull up the carpet to be able to back off the duct that goes under the seats. I had to break the ear off the old actuator on the screw that faces the drivers side. I also, like many others, had to cut the passenger side pillar that blocks the removal of the actuator. There is not much room to line up the splines for assembly of the actuator. The new actuator was clocked at 12, so I took the old one apart to use the gear to clock the damper at 12 o'clock, in order to mount the new actuator. The whole job took 3.5 hours.
Thank-you for this video I successfully changed my driver blend door following your example but story might be helpful to others. My drivers side blend door actuator faulted and stuck in cold position. I heard no clicking noise at all.. I changed it as per this video being mindful not to operate it while not installed into the door the new motorcraft actuator went from cold to hot and would not adjust. I moved the blend door with an Allen wrench just to verify that it wasn't stuck. Thinking this might have been a faulty part I installed another new actuator it also ran to the hot side during calibration and stayed there. After some research I decided to purchase a new controller (the knobs and buttons in the dash) this fixed my problem and is working great. In conclusion I believe the original actuator faulted and shorted something in my controller the actuator was $40 and the controler was $420. I saved about $1300 in labor thanks to this informative video.
Well, oh well, Great explanation, there is always one, ..... IF you have a center console, and have dual heat/cool controls, just add some more time and patience. You will have to move the carpet back and remove the thresholds. This is due to the wishbone floor duct feed. But I must say having to do this takes patience. I did remove a inch section of the duct work just in front of the damper motor, used a multi tool , then glued back into place. This was very helpful.... Thanks for the video and comments by others, it all was very helpful. I tried it three times, working so far . Fingers crossed, as others have replaced this and it was the controller. Thanks again...
Did you have to remove both driver and passenger seats or you are saying that instead you cut the duct and glue it back ? Thanks!
I had to remove both seats and center console in my Platinum@@etiennehui2426
I had lost the AC on the drivers side, I only had hot air of my 2010 F-150 passenger side was OK.
I had replaced the lower (driver side) blend door actuator motor in about 4 hours time with out pulling the dash, our incurring any damages. Ford charges 10 hours (about $1,000) just for the dash removal. I had followed the Que from Randall Thurman, thanks Randell and the videos as well they are extremely helpful. I also cut away the stand off (screw tower) from the foot duct by the forward fastener that wasn't used that allowed access for a 7 mm open end wrench to start, than finishing removal with needle nose pliers (reverse to install). I also cut away the aft right hand stand off coming down from the plenum for the foot duct fastener which allowed clearance for the splines to pull the motor out. The connector was a little tight but do able. I also performed the re-calibration by pulling fuse #15 for 5 min and powered up for 30 seconds before starting. That had corrected the issue I had, and also saved a few dollars.
I had a real concern with pulling the dash, to many things to go wrong with that process.
William Cummins My experience is just about identical to yours. Had to cut two stand offs to remove the actuator. Couldn't really see a way to get it out without doing so. Unhooking the wiring was difficult, but i was able to finessed it. But it all worked once i got it back together, took about 4 hours. So thankful you posted this, FTM. Awesome tutorial. Saved me a grand.
Just did same job on my 2013 Expedition and want to say thank you so much for this video it helps me a lot! And I even was able to put both bolts back on. Thank you again!
I’m about to tackle mine on the 2012 expedition. Did you pull the center console? How long did it take? Any tips?
I ended up doing it like you did, breaking the little ear after after spending a lot of time making the effort to get it without damaging it. I was successful with the top so I had hope but it disappeared and I got desperate. It’s working fine now a I am wishing I would of started with cutting that ear off with my Dremel Tool (day late dollar short). Hours would had been minutes. That’s a lot of money saved. Thanks for the help!
Could not have done this without your time, efforts and knowledge. Thank you sir.
I just wanted to say THANK YOU for doing this video. I was able to fix my 2014 F150 today for 28.00! The dealer wanted 1300.00 plus shop fee and tax to do it.
Just completed replacement, OMG , you casually mention "electrical connector" at end! That one thing took me hours & hours and some cutting of plastic on passenger side to get my fingers in enough to connect the connector to the back of the actuator. I got it! but I would not recommend trying this unless you have long skinny fingers. Mine is a 2010 F150 4 X 4 Lariat. This job Sucks . But thank you ! Removing Dash would be ok if you get someone to discharge your air conditioner properly.
I ended up pulling my dash to do it the "right" way, but unless you remove the evaporator and move the whole box up, it doesn't seem like you gain much. We still had to pry up quite a bit to get the lower duct removed. It took me all weekend to get completed. Thanks for the great videos.
Shawn Sass I'm doing this now and not coming out like the video says it does. I'm prying down hard to get as much room as possible but man it doesn't want to come out. I do not want to take out the whole dash of i can avoid it. But idk looks like i might have to.
Shawn Sass hey man, I’ve got my dash pulled now and still can’t get the actuator back in because of the duct work. How do you take it out?
This one saved me a bunch. Between this one and the other one you posted it walked me through the whole thing. You're awesome sir. Thanks 👍
Thank you for this video!!!
Did this on my 2011 Lariat 5.0 this week. I wound up cutting one of the "pillars" on the passenger side (can be seen at 6:03) but because everything down there is so snug I didn't see it as being necessary. I did NOT cut the ductwork as some other videos have recommended. The worst parts of the job were 1. getting the old actuator out - this is why I wound up cutting that pillar off and 2. putting the wire back in the new actuator. My patience was tested a LOT and I wound up using a small piece of wood cut off the end of a 2x4 to hold the ductwork down so I could use both hands to get the wire in place.
My truck has the heated/cooled seats and there is a "y shaped" piece of ductwork that runs from the console under the seats, but that ends midway through the seats. I don't believe this has anything to do with the heating/cooling of the steats - the ductwork does NOT connect to the seat. That being said - I did have to remove the bolts from the front two seats and move them out of the way to get this ductwork connected back.
The other thing not in the video is the drive gear on the new actuator will most likely NOT line up when you first put it on - you have to run the temperature control up and down until the new one fits into place.
Total time spent was probably 5-6 hours...but I saved $1200
Thank you for sharing this technique. Accomplished this repair successfully. Note that it may be near impossible to use a non-motorcraft part due to the thickness of aftermarket replacements.
Amen to that!
You’re definitely a real mechanic Thank you , 😮you’ve proven to me I will take mine to you . Where you AT ? 😎😂
Used recipicating saw to cut off top of duct featured prominately at frame 6:02 on passenger side. Allows room to slip down & slide out & slide new actuater back in. If done this way, don't think you would need to mess with driver side at all. Still need to "loosen" up console for some finger room. Worked very well considering very tight spot & cutting does not affect air flow but I saved top just in case It affected thermostats or some other in foreseen side effects. If so, a screw or two from the bottom should do. Tested wth hour drive no problems & nice heat. Still had to break off back screw eyelet. Had both top & bottom go out. Replaced both without replacing the back impossible reach screws. If they go out again, should be a half hour job either way. Beats the 1200 mechanic cost to replace them with no guarantee. 2010 wth 42k. I know a lot of you are ford men but I was hoping for a few more problem free miles!
Took a whole weekend but I got it thanks to you tutorial. You're the best
Thank you so much for this video. I was able to change the actuator and reset the climate control. The climate control is functioning properly now without clicking.
I have a 2010 KR and I assume the platinum is the same. There is more to this fix than the video shows only b/c of add'l duct work/complexity. The add'l ducting from underneath the dash down the center tunnel then splits to under the driver and passenger seat.
Do everything as shown and starting around the 5:30 mark of this video, you then need to remove both seats with either a breaker bar and or a mallet, both will work. When you take the screws out, the front and rear are different length but i still made sure to note which screw L & R i had to put back as is. Pull back the seats to the rear of the cab, now you can pull the carpet up and fold it over the seats. The ducting is held in by a push type screw at the end of the duct under each seat, remove each of those and you can then jiggle out the ducting as one and take it out of the cab.
Now, as you continue to follow the video, and you get to 6:32 of the video, if you own a KR or platinum, you will have to break that long tube you took a screw out of b.c you cannot push down enough b/c of the extra ducting. I just took a long pliers and one good twist it came off, you make make a hole in the box, no fear, put it back w/super glue at the end.
Now, you really don't see how the part comes out and i will tell you i basically had to break it into multiple pieces and then most importantly to get it unclipped from the wiring. Eventually, w/some patience, you'll get the old part out.
Take a break.
Putting it back in you have to be more careful obviously. Take your time trying to get the wiring connected. You can get some slack out of it, but not enough to clip it in outside of the area it's intended to go into. If you have sausage fingers/hands fine someone w/skinny fingers, i got the wife.
Once connected, you will have to pry w/all your might to get this part it, and wiggle and jiggle. I finally got it in the area but couldn't get the gear in the hole, so i turned the truck on and adjusting the air/heat temp it was turning the gear so then i was able to get it to seat properly.
Now, put everything back in the way it came out. For the part your broke off, nows the time to super glue it back and w/everything the way it is the pressure holds everything just fine.
I torqued the seat bolts back to 42ft/lb each.
While i had the seats out, i vacuumed the seat vent filters also.
RickRoush03 see my post 12/3. Had the same question and assumed seat and duct removal was needed but ventured on wth new approach. No seat dash or duct removal.....
RickRoush03 b
RickRoush
Thank you for the video. Replaced the drivers side motor on 2008 Expedition EB. Helped to get a set of pry bars from Harbor Freight to remove the last piece of duct from under the actuator. Now I have heat before winter sets in!
Again you have saved me a ton of money fixing my own truck thank you for all the awesome videos you do
Thanks for the video! I just replaced mine this weekend on my 2012 F150 Platinum, and it took me about 4 hours. What a pain (especially the electrical connector), but it was better than pulling the entire dash!
Thanks a million for your video, did it today on my 09 Lariat, had to break that support post to get anything to move in or out.Blowing nice cool air so far :)
In case you ever come to Edmonton, Alberta, Canada I'd like to buy you a beer or two :) Cheers
How did u get the connecter back on actuator
Great video. Just did this on my 2008 Expedition. There are a few minor differences. First the center console as an extra screw under the change holder that has to be remove. There are also three wiring harnesses that have to be unplugged on the Expedition and they are inside the center console. You will have to disconnect and move the duct work that goes to the back seat in order to get to the actuator. It really wasn't to terribly hard or a job. I would say the most difficult part was reinstalling the actuator. Make sure to use a little pressure to get it back into place. And you will have to break the back tab on the old actuator to get it out and don't worry about installing it on the new one, you won't need to.
Thanks for the helpful vids, this one especially. I was able to get both screws out by using a bottle jack in the passenger floor board to hold up on the evap housing. The extra room allowed the lower duct to swing enough to access the screw. Thanks again for the saved time!
You put a bottle Jack under the evap housing and lifted it a bit? Isn’t the evap housing bolted down?
Thank you so much! awesome video, really helped me get the job fixed on my 2011 f-150 without taking the whole dash out!
Just wanted to give thanks on this video, helped me tremendously on my 2012 Platinum. I have rear air so instead of pulling the dash, I elected to pull the seats and retract the carpet to remove the rear air assembly. I did the job over the weekend (10 hours total over two days). I removed the passenger side screw to the actuator but had to break the drivers eyelet off just like the video. I could not fish out that actuator though, had to cut the pillar in front of it and then I had to ask my wife to connect the plug once the new part was installed. Put some closed cell foam underneath it to compensate for the pillar being removed and only one screw on the actuator.
Any tips installing the plug on the lower actuator would be welcome because I have a feeling, based on the corrosion of the old part, I will be doing this again at some point.
I also changed the passenger actuator even though it wasn't bad as that takes roughly 45 minutes to one hour.
jjvirginia just came to the realization of the rear duct work that goes under the seat on mine. Looks like I'm gonna have to remove the seats too. :-/
what do you mean by pillar? the shafts of the actuator? I also pulled my seats, and I am currently fighting the boxes that sandwich the actuator. good call on doing both while your there.
I just finished this repair - had to do the exact same thing as jjvirginia. Was going to post a note to warn others as the video kind of leaps over that little challenge, then saw this. I don't see any way I could have gotten the old actuator out or new one in with that pillar in the way. I cut the pillar off then was able to pry the heater box and the lower duct far enough apart to fish out the old actuator. Plugging in the new one is indeed a bear, I was able to pull some slack out of the wiring and do it. I also broke off the driver screw ear removing the old actuator just like in the video. Mistake I made was failing to remove the old broken ear and the screw. I installed the new actuator, plugged in the wiring, then could not get the new actuator to mate with the heater box because the old screw was hitting the ear on the new actuator and preventing it from going all the way in. Took it all back out (@#$%^&*), backed the driver's side screw out with an 8mm open end, took off the broken ear, then reinstalled the new motor. I only have the screw on the passenger side holding it in just like the video. Hopefully that will hold it in, I sure don't want to do all that again.
I've got a 2010 Expedition KR. Everything was pretty much as he said, a few extra pieces inside the console but not too bad. The only thing he really didn't go over was how to remove the wiring from the back of the actuator. Since the wires are not very long you will have to remove the connector while it is still wedged between the ducts. There is a red locking tab that has to come out before you can remove the connector. AKJeeper has a video where he removes the tab and connector and it shows it really well. If I hadn't seen that video I would either still be there trying to get it removed or I would have broken the wires I'm sure. I used some small picks from harbor freight to slide the locking tab out from the side and then squeezed my finger behind the unit to depress the bottom tab while again using the pick to push the connector out. All in all it took me about 4 hours or two days to get it finished but I saved a ton of money.
Tried this on my 2010 Fx4 5.4L. There's not enough room to pull actuator out. I probably could've done this job faster by taking out the entire dash.
That being said, I did watch your video on the passenger side actuator replacement which works fine. I decided to change both at the same time as I believe they were both malfunctioning. But now my problem is that I have to tear apart the dash without the radio etc in it, just to finish the job. It's a brutal feeling knowing that only 1/2 inch of space is the deal breaker.
+Mike Bruton I ran into this as well with my 2009 Expedition - just not enough room :(
j so what did you end up doing? I need to change mine out on my 2009 expedition and am trying to find a video on it !
@@jewl1215 might needed to do...see my reply ^^^^^
Did this today on a lariat. It’s a little more work if it has rear a/c vents. If you loosen all the hvac box hardware inside and out. Wedge a prybar on the trans tunnel up on the hvac box and hold with some block of wood you can get in their. It still really sucks though.
I just did this "hack job" on my 2011 f150 and honestly it wasn't bad. Thanks for the video. couldn't have done the replacement without it!
I did it in 5 hours. I had to break a tab and one support post. The screws near the fire wall impossible to reach with this method, however the vid was a great tutor. Dealer wanted $800.
I usually love your videos too - but you left out some key things that need to happen. The front seats need to be removed so you can get the floor vents out. There is also a hidden screw in the back. Why didn’t you show more detail? Usually your videos cover it all
Very quick crude video as mentioned in the video.
Hey Sean, I have a 2010 Platinum with center console (removed, as well as seats carpet and floor ducts for rear removed). Where is the hidden screw, and did you have to break the plastic vertical post on passenger side in order to get the actuator out? Lastly, did you have to break the eyelet on old actuator on drivers side and then remove old screw, and not replace new screw? Thanks in advance.
Great video you are my go to for all my Ford repairs! Thank You I have a late 2014 F 150 12/14 production my blend door was mounted by the throttle assembly.
That s the mode door actuator not a blend door actuator.
@@FordTechMakuloco Thanks hope I don't have to change the other one
I cut down the vent in the passenger footwell. Makes it so much easier for removing it. Used a dremmel
Were you able to I
install the new actuator with both screws, or just the screw in front that is easier to access?
Wow, that was a difficult process. Could not remove the actuator because the vent tube for the seats was preventing removal. Had to remove the seats, cut the carpet in the center console area, pull it apart and remove the screw holding each side down under the seats. This allowed me to pull it out of the way for removal. Like others, had to cut away the fins on the right side so that my fingers could hold the connector for insertion in the new actuator. Doesn't seem like a great fit but I think it's working. 8 hours. Fingers all cut up. Glad it's over!
I somehow got the blend door actuator out, but how in the world did you get the new one plugged back in?!
Same here. Ther isn’t enough room.
Would I want to replace it if it's not clicking but blowing hot air? Passenger side works fine. Thanks for your videos.
Great video my friend. Just doing a little homework before looking at one today with a drivers side no heat complaint. Thank you! If i do film it, it'll definitely give you a mention.
The F-150 lower is the worst but doable, the expeditions the same gen are also tight but much easier.
@@FordTechMakuloco do you still need to break the one ear off in the expedition? Thanks buddy! I don't think I will be doing the repair anyway, asking for my brother.
Doing one tomorrow on a 2010 f150.... Will shure try it!!!
Will be doing driver side on a 13 expedition shortly after getting it back from having heater core replaced. Should have replaced both then but didn't know this was common.
Love your videos.
@@erikkirby1 how did it go? Doing mine right now but can’t seem to get the duct that goes to the rear seats out of the way… I’m at a loss
Good day Sir.
Nice video.
Have you ever replaced the refresh door?
My door just broke and don't want to pull the dash out.
Do you have an easier way to replace that resurculation door galation door thanks in advance
Good presentation and info. I own a 2010 F150 and both of my actuators went south. I was able to replace the upper one by removing the center section and was going to try what you have done for the lower. You just verified my thoughts on the access. As a working tech, I have done the most of the big 3 heater actuators and things do not change much... engineering on these still sucks. Hopefully the Dorman replacements I procured will last this life of the truck (wishful thinking). Thanks!
How did you get the new actuator in place!!???
I had this same issue but no clicking sound. I removed the front seats, the console, rolled the front carpet back to get at the floor duct. Then I successfully got the bad actuator removed and a new one reinstalled as shown in the video. I did decide to bust off the screw tower in the way of actuator as I didn't see any other way to get it out and back in again otherwise. I propped the assembly up with cardboard after I had installed the new part.Patience is the key for sure, especially when you are trying to connect the plug in the back. I found that if you sort of line up the connector pigtail where you think the female end will end up once you get it in then you can just barely get your finger back there to help line it up. The male end has a stopper behind it so you can just push in on the new actuator and it should click right in. I also had to disassemble the old actuator for the gear that protrudes out to use as a tool so I could line my heater door up with the orientation of the new part. Confused? You'll get it. My heater is working great again for about $40 instead of 12-1500. It took me about 5 hours with down time for beer.
So I need this done on my 2012 F150 Platinum and I don't have the time to do the work myself. Is there other components that commonly fail in this area that I should have the mechanic replace while he has the dash torn apart?
I have a 2009 F150 Lariat. I have heat on passenger's side but on driver's side it stays cold. It doesn't make a clicking noise at all. Is this the same part that needs replacing?Thanks!
+james42570 yes unfortunately
Thanks...
First, Thanks for all your helpful video's. I have a 2012 f150 platinum. If the new actuator goes all way around without being mounted, is it ruined? Couldn't get alignment , so had to bump key switch to rotate keyway to correct position on actuator. Went full revolution clockwise. Never went counter, even adjusting temp on control panel...always clockwise no matter if hot or cold was called for.
2010 Ford F-150 Lariat screw lower door clicking and stuck at 90 on drivers side i ordered the part it will arrive monday will be trying this method out hopefully all goes well!
K7gsxr313 Thanks FordTechMakuloco for the video did mine in about three hours works just as it should thanks you saved me from pulling the dash!!!
Decided to remove the dash to do it right to avoid cutting and replaced the actuator but it didn’t change. I have a code B11F0:11 -Air Intake Damper Position Sensor: Circuit Short to Ground. Any suggestions? Driver side stuck on heat
Did you ever fix this??
If you put the difficult-to-replace screw in the hole and then used either (1) a small speed clip washer or (2) a very small O-ring on the threaded side of the screw to keep it from falling out, and if you used the special thin-profile 8 mm wrench (the one you fabricated to get to the back screw on the top actuator, behind the radio), could you have easily screwed the second screw in without relying on the pressure of the ductwork to hold the actuator in place? Making and using that special 8 mm wrench made all the difference to me in putting in the second screw on the top actuator. This was a very helpful video for those of us with Ford trucks with aging and failing AC actuators. My 2010 Expedition has a number of clicking ones, which I am gradually replacing. Thanks for this and all of your excellent videos; they really help the average Ford owner and the shade tree mechanics out here.
Thanks for the video. I Figured that way would be the best way then to pull all apart. But this was definitely useful, got one coming in this week should be fun.
Thank you for your videos they are very informative. I just fixed my 2010 expedition with the same problem today.
Worked for sure a little bit of a pain but it worked and that's what matters 2010 F-150 FX4
My 2012 f150 either goes to 60 and is cold but I pick up the temp to 65 and it goes to full heater I just replaced the actuator behind the radio not to long ago. Would u happen to know what the issue might be or is it again the blend door actuator ?
Thanks dude! Your video plus all the comments helped me sail right through this complex task. However when I pulled back the carpet I discovered my ac drain was leaking into the cab on my 2009 F150. I don't see even the stub of a hose on the outside?
I am planning on replacing these on a 2011 Platinum. My plans are to pull the dash and HVAC box. Can I leave the seats in and get the dash out?
Does a 2012 F-150 Platinum 4x4 3.5 have two actuators on one side - upper and lower? If so, how do I know which one went out?
your calmer than cool hand luke .
man that was tight fit , id be cussing whole time . lol
great videos buddy , thumbs up
Calm enough to get the job done, it helped being fall temps.
Looks like I'm going to have to try this your way, only cold air on the driverside of my 2010 Lariat...I'm not paying the dealer to do it, thanks, for the video!!
Happen to have a video for the actuator controlling the air flow location?
This can be done but it is not pretty. I did it and took me about 5 hours. You must remove the two front seats and pull the carpet back and remove the floor duct work. Its not hard but something that is necessary. Also the plug behind the actuator is a pain. It is not easy to get out. I pulled on the old one accidentally and broke the retainers off. Luckily the new actuator accepted the plug with no problem. Still better that pulling the dash and the 12-1500 the dealers are getting for this job. Having a second hand is also recommended.
Everett Caudle I was defeated today when I realized I needed to pull the seats to get the rear ducting out of the way. If I decide to try again, will I be able to see the blend motor once I pull it out of the way? I couldn't see anything doing it in the way of the video.
I have a 2010 expedition king ranch. Once i turn on the vehicle i can hear the clicking noise even though the heater nor air conditioner is on. I checked the blend actuator behind the stereo, it was fine.The problem is once i turn on the heater or air conditioner and begin to change the temp, just like on this video you posted it begins to click again. Do you believe its the same actuator as in this video and would it be located in the same place.
+Trinity Ramirez The expedition is in the same place yes top and bottom of the case depending on which side is clicking.
2010 ford F150 5.4L no cold air on driver side I think will be lower blend door actuator, does the BCM will have code for this actuator? I will scan it to see if it does, thank you for the video, sure is a lot better them remove the dash..
felplay vina Most times it wil not set a code for the actuator no.
FordTechMakuloco Thank for the replay, It does have a code B1081-00 Left Temperature Damper Motor, I will let you know when this is fix..
OK, great video. I changed my actuator out in a 2009 F150. Went to the fuse panel on passenger side foot well and there are several 15 amp fuses. How do I determine which one to pull for reset or calibration ? Thanks for your reply.
Update, turns out that when the blend door actuator failed, it also impacted the dashboard heater controller, too. I replaced the heater controller with a used one from a wreck, and all works fine again. So, if you have an blend door actuator failure, and upon replacement, things still don't work properly, look into whether the heater controller is also faulty. I purchased a controller for about $45, where the new replacement is about $400, so you can save yourself some money if you find one used. It was frustrating to go through all the effort to replace the lower actuator only to have it still not work properly, but thanks to one of the posts from down deep in this thread, I thought to also replace the controller which had also been impacted by the actuator failure. I followed video here for the most part and sawed off the post like others had described to get the old actuator out. I installed the new actuator with one bolt, put some rubber weather stripping between the vent and the actuator to hold it in place, re-installed the one bolt that could be reached and all looks good. I glued back the post that I had sawed off and everything is going back together pretty well. It's been a beast of a job, but in the end it all is good. $37 for the new actuator, plus $45 for the used controller and I'm set. Had I brought it to the dealer, I'd be looking at more than $1500 for parts and labor.
Thanks for your videos. I have a 2012 F150 Lariat with dual AC. The drivers side puts out heat and the passenger side is cold even when I raise the temperature. There are two actuators apparently. The lower one is for the drivers side and the upper is for the passenger side. Is this correct? Since I'm having a problem with the passenger side, do I only need to replace the upper actuator?
I am having this problem now in my 11' king ranch F150 but it is coming from passenger side of the center console. is that a different blend door actuator and if so do you have a link to replacing that one? TIA
I got a whole new ac kit in my truck & it blows cold when driving but cool when idle I got it flushed about 3 times cause that’s what most mechanic thinks it needs to be flushed any suggestions
Hey there, I have an f150 lariat 2011 that had the clicking noise when I turned on the a/c, then I disconnected the battery and pulled fuses to try to reset everything... Biggest mistake ever, it now clicks non stop regardless if the air is even on! If the key is turned it clicks even with the air off, same issue you think? What a pain, I have to blast music to drown it out before I go crazy :). Thanks man
bmunch86 Yes they are very common for this, find out which one it is and change it out, doors usually are not a problem on these just actuators.
Will this keep the cold air from blowing! Just left shop and they said its not the acruator behind radio that keeping the cold air from blowing. It does need to be replaced because it is clicking.
I don't suspect there was any issues that appeared later on but i'm asking just because A buddies truck has the same issue and I can get away with cutting that tab off it will save time from removing the dash
+Bullshitkorner no issues as of yet, two is more than enough in most cases
ok perfect thanks for the response. I had to remove foam from my mode selector in my 06 f150 won't be looking forward to this job as well
if it has rear duct work,you'ii need to pull seats and carpet.
It seams like where the rear duct work connects is in the way. I can’t get the actuator out I’m about to start cutting stuff out of the way
couldn't get the bottom one out the same way you did her on a 2010 F150 lariat dual climate control and center console.ended up just taking the dash out (which btw is not hard as I thought to begin with lol) replace three of them except for the air inlet/recirculation actuator
Hello! Can you share a you tube video that is similar to what you did? I have the same truck, not excited about removing the floor carpets and center console...
That was back when I was working in a shop. The truck was a customers truck, not my personal truck.
Upper Blend Door Actuator Replacement-
th-cam.com/video/6hM4PTJ8PNs/w-d-xo.html
+FordTechMakuloco Thank you so much for the video’s you do a great job on them all…I have a question does this video also work on a 2012 f150 ecoboost platinum…it just turned 39,000 and is just blowing cold air out the drivers side the right side is working fine I can actually here it moving somewhat, but as far as the right side goes it doesn’t make any noise at all the temperature just goes up and down from 60-90 without making any noise at all…could it be possible that a fuse is blowed the reason i’m no hearing anything…any advice will be deeply appreciated…PS…do you know the part # for the bottom one if that’s what the problem is right off hand if not don’t worry about it….thanks
+Lucy Lee I just started having the same problem on my 2012 f150 eco boost fx4
FordTechMakuloco I have seat heat in my 2010 Lariat. But the driver's side shuts off after a few seconds. Thoughts?
Lee Hilty there are two elements in the seat. When you are sitting; one is below your butt and one is on the back. The butt one usually fails. It would have heated up really hot a couple of times before failing if it is the butt element. If this is the case simply replace the lower element.
Will this work with cooled seats? It doesn't look like I have extra room to pull the duct down.
No, it won't. Read through the comments for very helpful additional steps to take if you have cooling seats and rear air.
@@janmasse9688 Cool, thank you. How far back was the comments about the cooling seats?
How did you get the duct piece out that feeds the center console rear vents?
I had the same issue. Were you able to come up with a solution?
@@Kam0917 I had to cut the post if at the bottom.
@@Kam0917 I had to cut the post off at the bottom
Thank you sir. Maybe I'll try that if I decide to take everything apart again.