After watching, I replaced the front shocks on my Jeep Grand Cherokee. It rides much better now. Your videos are great confidence builders. Many thanks!
I liked that concept A LOT: "confidence builders". That would be the two words that better describe most ChrisFix videos. Thank you and greetings from Portugal.
Wow I paid $300 to get mine done a couple years ago. Shocks were $30 each at auto zone. Last week I did it all by myself, it's only 2 nuts to unscrew and that's it.. never thought it would be so easy. Thank you!
same, I assumed it was actually time consuming and paid 350 to install 40$ shocks at a garage... Some people's children... open garages. Thanks CFIx!! any thoughts out there on base cheapo shocks vs high end? is it best to buy the 30 dollar shocks or the 130 dollar ones when your little pickup truck bounces around like a pogo stick?
If they could replace 8 shocks an hour at 350 each for an hour a day and a 40 hour week with no holiday, they'd make a salary of $1450000 - meaning the labour of replacing those shocks was roughly twice as valuable as the average neurosurgeon or just under 7 times as valuable as the director of NASA. @@hehunches
Chris, you've gone and done it again! You helped me to understand just how easy and simple it would be to replace the worn out shocks on my 2007 F-150 (132K) - and I've just finished doing the job. Thanks, once more, for all of the time and effort you put into the terrific 'how-to' videos that you share with us. They are a wealth of great teaching and information!
Great Video clip! Excuse me for chiming in, I would appreciate your initial thoughts. Have you considered - Patlarny Vehicle History Principle (erm, check it on google should be there)? It is an awesome one off product for discovering how to repair your car the simple way minus the hard work. Ive heard some interesting things about it and my cooworker finally got astronomical results with it.
Thread locker isn't really necessary if you are torquing to spec in most cases, the major exception being brake bolts. Plus, the threads have to be clean in order for the thread locker to be effective, something Chris clearly does not bother with before adding thread locker. Look at the instructions for any thread locker product, it will say the surfaces to be locked must be clean and dry. If you must use thread locker on used bolts and nuts, hit them with some brake cleaner first.
I'm pretty sure ChrisFix has top of the line air tools and compressor but being the great guy he is to show us all how to do with regular hand tools he sacrifices those luxuries. Thanks, Chris 👍
That was awesome seeing you work "unedited". It just goes to show how much work you put into these videos on your edited versions so we dont have to watch the "slow" parts. This was a cool idea. Nice work ChrisFix
Thanks man! I figured it would be neat to see since this was such a simple fix! Watch the other side (which is edited) and you will see I can cram so much info and make it so smooth and seamless when I edit it!
You’ve helped me so much , not just with the knowledge of the job at hand but with the confidence to do it myself on my 1976 FSJ Jeep Wagoneer. Thank you
I learned how to change my rotors and brake pads from Cris Fix, and so far it's been great. I was shopping around to get a better price on my rear shocks on my Toyota minivan. I am gonna do it myself. Thanks so much for the great videos, may God bless you man.
hi Chris, i just wanted to let you know that i watch all your videos because you do everything with tools that most people have, you also make videos that i can follow and actually do myself, Thanks Ryan
Ryan T Thanks for the feedback Ryan! I try to use common hand tools and make it clear so anyone can follow along and fix their own car. I am really glad you are liking the videos!
Thanks for this video. I worked on my father's 2000 Toyota Tacoma base model. Very similar. Easy stuff. Breaker bar makes the job so much easier. I ended up using wire brush, scrubbed off the rust on the bolt where you mount the shock absorber onto, put silicone paste on there since shock absorber has rubber, and then put anti-seize on the bolt screw instead of threadlocker only bcz it'll be easier to loosen and bcz I didn't have threadlocker and too lazy to drive to auto store to buy one. Bought both rear and front shocks KYB Excel-G for $15 each. Spent $60 total. Total cost to replace all of them = $70($60 for 4 shocks, $10 for shipping). Shops would've charged me $100-$150 each corner, even more, which would've been total of $400-600 for all 4 corners, possibly even more. Thank you very much.
i had 2 year of college with an automotive technician degree where they taught us how to always torque fasterns and do things right... now that i work in the industry, im sorry to report most shops don't want u to do that, they want the job done quick so they can roll another in.
Of course they do that Mechanics get paid different ways so yeah they want you to change it tighten it and ship it and not to bother with torque if you can get like torque sticks if you'd like it be many different sizes tho
Most people don't access the torque specs (this is really unusual for most things and not necessary). You only get them from shop manuals for each particular car and that's not realistic to expect a mechanic to do that to every vehicle, unless he charges you extra labor to reference all the specs (it takes time). It isn't 'being greedy' (always exceptions) it's really more just being practical. Take your air gun, zip it down it ain't coming loose. Chris Fix is showing you the 'full gamut' not necessarily that you have to do it that way (showing you how to do it without air tools, for example). This is if you want to be slow, deliberate and take your time "do it right" while learning for novices, just don't expect every mechanic who has to earn a living to be that particular in each case, it's just not required.
I did this job on my own after viewing this video. A tip: after you remove the shock absorber, the whole assembly of rear tyre may lower a little, because of which you wont be able to insert the bolt on the top side of the shock absorber. To fix this, put something like a wood piece, or in my case, my car's scissor jack under the wheel hub before you remove the shock.
Thanks for video. Gave me the confidence to order the replacements. It was just as easy as you described. Saved me at least $300 over the dealership price. I also bought better shocks for half the price.
Just came across your vids Chris. FANTASTIC help for a mid-level DIYer that I am. I have to say your vids have been a great help! Thanks for taking the time to do such a great job of your Vid and Voice production.
That's probably THE easiest shock replacement I've seen in a rear. Would be nice if they were all that easy, my 1997 explorer is a different animal in that regard (putting in gabriel max controls so I don't have to do it again for awhile, the cheap monro-matics I had in there blew out after a few years)
@ChrisFix Always producing Hugh quality videos. I love the fact that you give a thorough explanation and show you can use basic tools to do the job. Keep it up, I've learned so much. You're doing a great job!
My frist comment ever on youtube , i just want to say that your average videos show clear position of view that help me alot to try it out after . Well good job on cars and video editing . :) Keep it up
Hey Chris, I broke off a mounting stud when I was doing one of them and am applying a stud repair kit. Would love to see a video from you on stud repair if that ever happends to you! Thanks, Peter
Hey Chris! I'm currently into the process of buying new shocks for my 95 c1500 Silverado, and was researching prices for auto shops here in my town. I didn't know this was so easy and quick! deftly helping me out, thanks a lot!
New subscriber. Thanks for all the informational in depth videos. This doesn't only save me money but now it saves me time. Thanks Chris Fix. Keep up the hard work.
My car really needs it and I’ve been holding back on doing it because the mechanic is charging me $500... now I’m going to do this myself as soon as possible ! Thanks!
Chris, I'm not a mechanic but just wanted you to know what a great job you're doing with your videos. They are really easy to follow for someone like me with very little experience. Could I make a request...I am not comfortable with jacking up my car. Is there a safe and proper way to do this so that I don't get hurt? Maybe a video on how to do this properly and what type of jack to purchase would be helpful.
Peter Gensheimer Thanks Peter. I have been debating if I should do a video on jacking up the car because it is one of those liability things and so many cars are so different. That being said, I have had numerous requests so I think I will. In the meantime, this video will definitely help: th-cam.com/video/314HE4aMG-g/w-d-xo.html
Midas is charging $1,000 for this job on all four wheels.. You are awesome, you have no idea how many people daily are saved from heart attacks and depression through your videos
When you get a vehicle, always purchase the Haynes/Chilton manual for the vehicle. It's the bible for that car in terms of EVERY spec necessary for torque, fluids, etc.
Hey @Chrisfix thanks for showing me this I've been watching your vids for a bit along with 2 other ppl and since I've been watching the videos my boss is impressed with the knowledge that I'm learning movement from cleaning up oil, transmission fluid and stuff like that to actually working on cars I plan on starting my own side business wen I'm off work and now I know how to change rear shocks if all goes well I plan on buying a classic muscle and rebuild it thanx again Where are you located reminds me of long island
what if i really dont know how much foot pound of torque i need for my car ...do i just tighten it enough?or can it cause problems if its isnt tight enough the way it should be
Buy a manual at autozone for like$20 I believe. Tells you a majority of torque spec on what nuts and bolts are on your car. Very useful. I have one of my own car 97 eclipse.
6 minute job (faster with air tools as you said), and the Mechanics charge upwards of $300 for this work. Shows how much of a scam some of these shop jobs actually are. Thanks for this helpful information Chris!
Hey ChrisFix!! I have changed my 2012 Lexus IS250 brakes + Rotors, Front Struts by watching your videos. Thank you so much..... My question is: My Torque wrench is messed up. Is there a way it can be fixed ? Or I have to buy a new wrench ? Thank you for your response.
just replaced mine today with some good quality KYB shocks, I got one that was leaking oil off of my 1996 Dodge Ram 1500. I had to lower my spare tire in order to have more room just to get into my rear shocks. My torque specifications required the top bolt to be tighten down to 30 ft-lbs and the bottom nut to be tighten down to 100 ft-lbs, but hey, that's Dodge to you.
Hey, Chris. I wanted to ask you something pertaining to this video. After you break the bolts/nuts loose initially, is it good practice to soak them with pb blaster? I had a water pump bolt break on me one time, so I hammered a socket on the exposed remainder of the bolt, and once I finally got it to break loose, I soaked it with pb blaster, so as to lubricate the housing as the bolt was being extracted. Saved the threads, and new pump bolted up like a charm. Just something to think about
The best way is to buy a torque wrench, but realize that ft-lbs also applies literally. In other words, a torque spec of 50 ft pounds means that you pull hard enough that you could lift 50 lbs using a 1ft bar, 25 lbs with a 2ft bar, etc.
For those starting from scratch, remember tochock the diagonally opposite wheel to the point you're working on, loosen lug nuts with the breaker bar, jack car up at the jacking up point for your car, & place jackstands on the side of the car you're working on prior to this point. Placing the wheel under the body of the car could help!
Is the torque wrench used to avoid over-tightening? or under-tightening? or both? For example: if I used an impact driver to tighten this, would I risk breaking something?
Thank You Mr Chris for all your help!! Mr Chris I need some help, I have a 2002 E150 van with a carpet cleaning equipment the machine is about 900 lbs is bounces on 30 miles and above what shocks do you recommend for my van? thank you 😊
So what do you think of the Ford Windstar minivan? My family used to have a 1995 Windstar until 2006, and it provided us with a comfortable means of transport for 150,000 miles. The Windstar was a great van for a family, and I sort of miss it. I can imagine myself keeping it running if we kept it until now, seeing as you provide some good resources about this car and many others, haha.
M Lee I have had this 95 windstar since it was brand new and it now has 300k miles and I am impressed. Those were the original shocks and the whole front suspension was original until 250k miles when I rebuilt it. I have had a lot of memories in this van so we are trying to keep it going for as long as it is economically possible.
I'm new to this whole DIY thing, so I'm curious, why do you need a torque wrench? Why can't you just tighten it with a socket wrench? Also, when torqueing, how do you know when you have put in the required amount of torque? Thanks. Just recently discovered your channel and I love your videos.
Hey Chris. I've used several of your videos to help me through work on my son's '66 Mustang. You do really nice work that is clear and concise. The Mustang needs new shocks. Would you expect us to encounter anything that might create issues? Other than the likelihood of rusty bolts. I'm not concerned about taking more than six minutes. I fully anticipate it taking an afternoon, and that's fine. Thanks!
Hey Dale! Thanks a lot man! I am glad the videos have been helpful! The only thing about an old car is that you never know what you might find with rust and with stuck bolts. I would make a batch of penetrating fluid: th-cam.com/video/2WuVBFTzoKc/w-d-xo.html Just make sure the area the shock attaches to is solid and rust free. Any rust that you have, sand it away or use a wire wheel and then paint it. Hit it with some black paint. I use this stuff and it is great: www.amazon.com/Rust-Oleum-Automotive-251574-11-Ounce-Bumper/dp/B005H5P5C6/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1420821434&sr=8-2&keywords=bumper+paint
ChrisFix Thanks for the tips, particularly on handling the rust and painting. From what I have found on a quick google search, the front shocks on the Mustang will be pretty easy provided there are no major rust issues. The rear shocks will require removing the back seat to access the top end of the shocks. Certain to take more than six minutes, but hopefully not too much of an issue. Thanks!
When the bolts are hand tightened, don't you have to bounce the suspension a little to seat and settle the rubber bushings so they don't over twist and wear out prematurely?
+Wtrxprs007able Not on something like this. There is not enough suspension travel. What you are talking about is pre-load. That is good to do for cars/trucks with a good amount of suspension travel. Here is a video on that: th-cam.com/video/-QczV_6v42A/w-d-xo.html
HI chris, just wanna ask abut torque wrench numbers, how much force for each common parts like tire nuts or bolts, for coilovers nuts or bolts, for engine mounts nuts or bolts and so on. could you do a video on that? thanks!
Is there a specific way you have to lift your car with the jack if you don't have an actual lift? I have an Astro van that has rusted through rear shocks I was wanting to replace myself
+ChrisFix, you put the axle stands underneath the sides and then the jack underneath the axle, right? I was able to break my bottom bolt of my versa free, but the nut is actually inside this pipe. it's a royal pain. i think my problem was that I just used the jack underneath the side i wanted replaced and no axle stands but it's not working. im going to use a torch to heat the rusted nut inside the pipe, but do you think there would be some pressure on the bolt itself, as i was able to break it free?
After watching, I replaced the front shocks on my Jeep Grand Cherokee. It rides much better now. Your videos are great confidence builders. Many thanks!
How many miles did it have when u replaced shocks?
+John Kennedy 110k
@@johnkennedy9078 湯地
I liked that concept A LOT: "confidence builders". That would be the two words that better describe most ChrisFix videos.
Thank you and greetings from Portugal.
No religion is accepted in front of Allah except Islam,PROPHET(PBUH)
holy cow... 3 years ago I paid a couple hundred bucs to get this done on my old car... Now I can do it myself... Thanks ChrisFix
+Daniel Ortiz Awesome Daniel! Glad you are learning a lot!
+lcserg87 Why would you make a comment like that? You're an idiot!
+twn5858 No kidding.
+lcserg87 wtf does that supposed to mean?
Thats a lot of bucs
Wow I paid $300 to get mine done a couple years ago. Shocks were $30 each at auto zone. Last week I did it all by myself, it's only 2 nuts to unscrew and that's it.. never thought it would be so easy. Thank you!
My mechanic wants to charge me $400 just for labor 😒
Those must have been some cheap shocks.
@@NFLYoungBoy223 could’ve been oem specs. I’ve seen a lot of better but oem spec shock absorbers be pretty cheap but great for replacing old ones
same, I assumed it was actually time consuming and paid 350 to install 40$ shocks at a garage... Some people's children... open garages. Thanks CFIx!!
any thoughts out there on base cheapo shocks vs high end? is it best to buy the 30 dollar shocks or the 130 dollar ones when your little pickup truck bounces around like a pogo stick?
If they could replace 8 shocks an hour at 350 each for an hour a day and a 40 hour week with no holiday, they'd make a salary of $1450000 - meaning the labour of replacing those shocks was roughly twice as valuable as the average neurosurgeon or just under 7 times as valuable as the director of NASA. @@hehunches
Chris, you've gone and done it again! You helped me to understand just how easy and simple it would be to replace the worn out shocks on my 2007 F-150 (132K) - and I've just finished doing the job. Thanks, once more, for all of the time and effort you put into the terrific 'how-to' videos that you share with us. They are a wealth of great teaching and information!
I'll ph bbz2
I could watch Chris Fix videos all day long! Look daunting but he makes them look so easy to do!
Great Video clip! Excuse me for chiming in, I would appreciate your initial thoughts. Have you considered - Patlarny Vehicle History Principle (erm, check it on google should be there)? It is an awesome one off product for discovering how to repair your car the simple way minus the hard work. Ive heard some interesting things about it and my cooworker finally got astronomical results with it.
Anne, GOOD!
Pretty cool to see the unedited version. Thanks for taking the time to edit your videos. I see how much work you out into it now.
Tesoromio22 Im glad you enjoyed it!
You were the only person that mentioned the torque specs and lock tight. Thanks for the video!!
Karlton
The vary by vehicle.
Thread locker isn't really necessary if you are torquing to spec in most cases, the major exception being brake bolts. Plus, the threads have to be clean in order for the thread locker to be effective, something Chris clearly does not bother with before adding thread locker. Look at the instructions for any thread locker product, it will say the surfaces to be locked must be clean and dry. If you must use thread locker on used bolts and nuts, hit them with some brake cleaner first.
I'm pretty sure ChrisFix has top of the line air tools and compressor but being the great guy he is to show us all how to do with regular hand tools he sacrifices those luxuries. Thanks, Chris 👍
That was awesome seeing you work "unedited". It just goes to show how much work you put into these videos on your edited versions so we dont have to watch the "slow" parts. This was a cool idea. Nice work ChrisFix
Thanks man! I figured it would be neat to see since this was such a simple fix! Watch the other side (which is edited) and you will see I can cram so much info and make it so smooth and seamless when I edit it!
NP man! Keep doing what you are doing! To me, you make the best how to videos on youtube!
Hi chrisfix! I want to say thank you for all videos that you uploaded! We are now self proclaimed mechanic after watching your videos!
this guy actually provides quite a service,hoping folks appreciate what he does...
You’ve helped me so much , not just with the knowledge of the job at hand but with the confidence to do it myself on my 1976 FSJ Jeep Wagoneer.
Thank you
That’s the goal! Awesome!
Chris = 6 minutes one handed and blindfolded. Me = 3 hours, trying not to cuss. Got it done though, and feels great! Thanks!!
I learned how to change my rotors and brake pads from Cris Fix, and so far it's been great.
I was shopping around to get a better price on my rear shocks on my Toyota minivan.
I am gonna do it myself.
Thanks so much for the great videos, may God bless you man.
Awesome! Thanks a lot!
hi Chris, i just wanted to let you know that i watch all your videos because you do everything with tools that most people have, you also make videos that i can follow and actually do myself, Thanks Ryan
Ryan T Thanks for the feedback Ryan! I try to use common hand tools and make it clear so anyone can follow along and fix their own car. I am really glad you are liking the videos!
Thanks for this video. I worked on my father's 2000 Toyota Tacoma base model. Very similar. Easy stuff. Breaker bar makes the job so much easier. I ended up using wire brush, scrubbed off the rust on the bolt where you mount the shock absorber onto, put silicone paste on there since shock absorber has rubber, and then put anti-seize on the bolt screw instead of threadlocker only bcz it'll be easier to loosen and bcz I didn't have threadlocker and too lazy to drive to auto store to buy one. Bought both rear and front shocks KYB Excel-G for $15 each. Spent $60 total. Total cost to replace all of them = $70($60 for 4 shocks, $10 for shipping). Shops would've charged me $100-$150 each corner, even more, which would've been total of $400-600 for all 4 corners, possibly even more. Thank you very much.
i had 2 year of college with an automotive technician degree where they taught us how to always torque fasterns and do things right... now that i work in the industry, im sorry to report most shops don't want u to do that, they want the job done quick so they can roll another in.
truly said
So is it like another money making tactic
Of course they do that Mechanics get paid different ways so yeah they want you to change it tighten it and ship it and not to bother with torque if you can get like torque sticks if you'd like it be many different sizes tho
Most people don't access the torque specs (this is really unusual for most things and not necessary). You only get them from shop manuals for each particular car and that's not realistic to expect a mechanic to do that to every vehicle, unless he charges you extra labor to reference all the specs (it takes time). It isn't 'being greedy' (always exceptions) it's really more just being practical. Take your air gun, zip it down it ain't coming loose. Chris Fix is showing you the 'full gamut' not necessarily that you have to do it that way (showing you how to do it without air tools, for example). This is if you want to be slow, deliberate and take your time "do it right" while learning for novices, just don't expect every mechanic who has to earn a living to be that particular in each case, it's just not required.
You can damage bushings, bearings, and studs if you just use an impact or torque by feel, so the mechanic should use a torque wrench.
May you continually be blessed for sharing your knowledge, much respect Mr Chris
I been working on cars for seven years and I always like to come back and rewatch these videos make sure I do things right.
I did this job on my own after viewing this video. A tip: after you remove the shock absorber, the whole assembly of rear tyre may lower a little, because of which you wont be able to insert the bolt on the top side of the shock absorber. To fix this, put something like a wood piece, or in my case, my car's scissor jack under the wheel hub before you remove the shock.
I'll be doing the exact same job on a very similar vehicle. Thanks for showing how easy it is to do this job.
Glad the video was helpful!
"It's kind of windy out here." On cue, leaves blow by.
He's a geny!
Thanks leaf
4:08
I thought the exact same thing lol
I need to fix my car in the rain, garage was full of tools and other junk. LOL.
Thanks for video. Gave me the confidence to order the replacements. It was just as easy as you described. Saved me at least $300 over the dealership price. I also bought better shocks for half the price.
Chris Fix I have learned more about car maintenance from your channel it's crazy keep up the great work cheers from Australia
Just came across your vids Chris. FANTASTIC help for a mid-level DIYer that I am. I have to say your vids have been a great help! Thanks for taking the time to do such a great job of your Vid and Voice production.
That's probably THE easiest shock replacement I've seen in a rear. Would be nice if they were all that easy, my 1997 explorer is a different animal in that regard (putting in gabriel max controls so I don't have to do it again for awhile, the cheap monro-matics I had in there blew out after a few years)
exactly, I have never seen shocks that were separate from the springs
Me neither, at least not at normal cars, which does not include citroen.
@@eksine ford transit van is like that.
@ChrisFix Always producing Hugh quality videos. I love the fact that you give a thorough explanation and show you can use basic tools to do the job. Keep it up, I've learned so much. You're doing a great job!
Raul Sotelo Thanks man! I appreciate it! I am glad you are liking the videos!
This guy is the greatest.
thanks for this man im doing mine tomorrow. got the bolts soaking just now
Awesome!
Soaking?
Mark Munson leaving bolt loosener grease on the bolt for few hrs to make it easier to get off.
ChrisFix do you jack up from rear dif or from frame rail? Do you want the shocks compressed or stretched for most simple removal?
Thanks Chris!! Had to replace the rear shocks on my wife's 2009 Nissan Pathfinder. Followed your vid and did it! Thanks again.
I really miss Chris fix in 2020... please come back to us
My frist comment ever on youtube , i just want to say that your average videos show clear position of view that help me alot to try it out after . Well good job on cars and video editing . :) Keep it up
The real time videos are great, consider doing this again, thank you
Lol, oldie but goodie! ChrisFix u helped 1000's by now! Congrats and thank u, i know u have helped me out a few times too!!
Hey Chris, I broke off a mounting stud when I was doing one of them and am applying a stud repair kit. Would love to see a video from you on stud repair if that ever happends to you!
Thanks,
Peter
Hey Chris! I'm currently into the process of buying new shocks for my 95 c1500 Silverado, and was researching prices for auto shops here in my town. I didn't know this was so easy and quick! deftly helping me out, thanks a lot!
Awesome! I am glad the video was helpful!
I see you don't use many impact guns, I appreciate that sometimes they do more damage than good, I enjoy your videos. Lots of good information.
Thanks again Chris for another simple, doable repair. Take care.
moneygeewtee No problem! I am glad you enjoyed the video! I like repairs that go this smoothly!
I thought it would be complicated but this is something I could probably do myself. Thanks for posting this.
+Michael Wells No problem! Glad the video was helpful!
New subscriber. Thanks for all the informational in depth videos. This doesn't only save me money but now it saves me time. Thanks Chris Fix. Keep up the hard work.
I can’t be the only one sitting by the car watching this
My car really needs it and I’ve been holding back on doing it because the mechanic is charging me $500... now I’m going to do this myself as soon as possible ! Thanks!
Chris, I'm not a mechanic but just wanted you to know what a great job you're doing with your videos. They are really easy to follow for someone like me with very little experience. Could I make a request...I am not comfortable with jacking up my car. Is there a safe and proper way to do this so that I don't get hurt? Maybe a video on how to do this properly and what type of jack to purchase would be helpful.
Peter Gensheimer Thanks Peter. I have been debating if I should do a video on jacking up the car because it is one of those liability things and so many cars are so different. That being said, I have had numerous requests so I think I will. In the meantime, this video will definitely help: th-cam.com/video/314HE4aMG-g/w-d-xo.html
if im doing this for an older car, a 1973 Oldsmobile omega to be exact, what torque should i do for the bolts
A ChrisFix's videos to the rescue again! Gonna do that on my 94 F150! Thank you sir!!!
Please do a video on choosing shocks and struts, sizing them etc. You're the best.
Thanks for showing how easy this really is! Much appreciated.
This was so helpful and filled me with such confidence! Thank you so much for making this video!!!
You make this look so easy. I will watch this a few more times. thanks! love all your vids
Real time is always cool. Thanks Chris.
Love this. Super helpful. Saved my day. And was super comfortable to watch! Great audio. Awesome voice
YOU SAVED ME SO MUCH MONEY! THANK YOU!
Midas is charging $1,000 for this job on all four wheels..
You are awesome, you have no idea how many people daily are saved from heart attacks and depression through your videos
Awesome! That is the goal! Glad the video was helpful!
where do you look up the torque requirements? is it in the manual or box or somewhere else?
When you get a vehicle, always purchase the Haynes/Chilton manual for the vehicle. It's the bible for that car in terms of EVERY spec necessary for torque, fluids, etc.
Fuel filter 2000 chevy silverado
Mic quality is amazing! This is like watching a livestream
Thanks for the video. About to replace front and rear shocks on my 1988 Mazda B2200.
Hey @Chrisfix thanks for showing me this I've been watching your vids for a bit along with 2 other ppl and since I've been watching the videos my boss is impressed with the knowledge that I'm learning movement from cleaning up oil, transmission fluid and stuff like that to actually working on cars I plan on starting my own side business wen I'm off work and now I know how to change rear shocks if all goes well I plan on buying a classic muscle and rebuild it thanx again
Where are you located reminds me of long island
hi Chris Fix from Australia love your video they are easy to understand
What an Absolute Legend well done Chris! 😎👏👏
Did the exact same job on our 04 Mazda MPV. Yes, it was very easy. Now f,or the brake rotors and front shocks.
I like how no matter how old a video is he still responds to yuou
I try
You are a wonderful person Chris and handy as well.
what if i really dont know how much foot pound of torque i need for my car ...do i just tighten it enough?or can it cause problems if its isnt tight enough the way it should be
Buy a manual at autozone for like$20 I believe. Tells you a majority of torque spec on what nuts and bolts are on your car. Very useful. I have one of my own car 97 eclipse.
They have tons of books of different cars. Find one that covers your make and model and year. My book covers 95- 2005 which is great
Don’t over tighten it can cause problems that’s why there are torque spec for each nut and bolt bro
It’s amazing how much one guy can save you in cash just by showing you how to do something
give a man a fish.... you know the rest
You are a wonderful person, thank you so much for being you!
Sounds intimidating, but now that I've seen it I think I can do it:) Many thanks for the tutorial buddy.
6 minute job (faster with air tools as you said), and the Mechanics charge upwards of $300 for this work. Shows how much of a scam some of these shop jobs actually are. Thanks for this helpful information Chris!
ah,its good to rewatch old videos
Great video mate. From down under Australia
Mark Dippel Thanks a lot and thanks for the shout out from Australia!
Hey Chris will this process of struts work on a 70's car (camaro)??
Chris fix can you make a video on how to remove a C4 Corvette rear suspension . I need help
Hey ChrisFix!! I have changed my 2012 Lexus IS250 brakes + Rotors, Front Struts by watching your videos. Thank you so much.....
My question is: My Torque wrench is messed up. Is there a way it can be fixed ? Or I have to buy a new wrench ?
Thank you for your response.
just replaced mine today with some good quality KYB shocks, I got one that was leaking oil off of my 1996 Dodge Ram 1500. I had to lower my spare tire in order to have more room just to get into my rear shocks. My torque specifications required the top bolt to be tighten down to 30 ft-lbs and the bottom nut to be tighten down to 100 ft-lbs, but hey, that's Dodge to you.
Hey, Chris. I wanted to ask you something pertaining to this video. After you break the bolts/nuts loose initially, is it good practice to soak them with pb blaster? I had a water pump bolt break on me one time, so I hammered a socket on the exposed remainder of the bolt, and once I finally got it to break loose, I soaked it with pb blaster, so as to lubricate the housing as the bolt was being extracted. Saved the threads, and new pump bolted up like a charm. Just something to think about
Usually you would spray it before doing anything so it would make it easier to break it free and do exactly that!
very helpful! greetings from venezuela!
luis lopez Great! Glad the video was helpful and thanks for the shout out from Venezuela!
Suppose you don't have a torque wrench, how tight is tight enough?
Get one because it will save you from guessing. They are inexpensive for a 1 time investment: amzn.to/2998ijS
lol And you know that without a torque wrench? Maybe you have a digital brain? The question was WITHOUT a torque wrench for crying out loud.
About 67.8 Newton meters.
Whenever your elbow clicks when tightening down the bolt.
The best way is to buy a torque wrench, but realize that ft-lbs also applies literally. In other words, a torque spec of 50 ft pounds means that you pull hard enough that you could lift 50 lbs using a 1ft bar, 25 lbs with a 2ft bar, etc.
For those starting from scratch, remember tochock the diagonally opposite wheel to the point you're working on, loosen lug nuts with the breaker bar, jack car up at the jacking up point for your car, & place jackstands on the side of the car you're working on prior to this point. Placing the wheel under the body of the car could help!
I have a 9000 lbs motorhome. Are shock absorbers model specific? Or would I have to look for just any heavy duty shock absorber?
They are model specific!
You are a mechanical genius
Hi Chris fix. Quick question, if you add too much thread locker, can it muck up the torquing down?
Is the torque wrench used to avoid over-tightening? or under-tightening? or both? For example: if I used an impact driver to tighten this, would I risk breaking something?
I like the real time footage
good job Chris ,is there a video how to check shock absorbers are they good or bad ?
One question! Did you jack up the struts in the back ??
Thank You Mr Chris for all your help!! Mr Chris I need some help, I have a 2002 E150 van with a carpet cleaning equipment the machine is about 900 lbs is bounces on 30 miles and above what shocks do you recommend for my van? thank you 😊
So what do you think of the Ford Windstar minivan? My family used to have a 1995 Windstar until 2006, and it provided us with a comfortable means of transport for 150,000 miles. The Windstar was a great van for a family, and I sort of miss it. I can imagine myself keeping it running if we kept it until now, seeing as you provide some good resources about this car and many others, haha.
M Lee I have had this 95 windstar since it was brand new and it now has 300k miles and I am impressed. Those were the original shocks and the whole front suspension was original until 250k miles when I rebuilt it. I have had a lot of memories in this van so we are trying to keep it going for as long as it is economically possible.
Does it need to do the alignment after changing the absorber? For front and back absorber?
Ummm No. You'll need one if you replace the tie rod ends.
Tie rods and ball joints will need alignment but you can get it fairly close if you make a mental note of how many threads the nuts where on
This is wonderful!! I love the real time aspect. Would you do a real time video on strut replacement?
I'm new to this whole DIY thing, so I'm curious, why do you need a torque wrench? Why can't you just tighten it with a socket wrench? Also, when torqueing, how do you know when you have put in the required amount of torque? Thanks. Just recently discovered your channel and I love your videos.
+TMac53 Here is all the info you need on torquing and torque wrenches: th-cam.com/video/3v3hLvuO_KU/w-d-xo.html
Hey Chris. I've used several of your videos to help me through work on my son's '66 Mustang. You do really nice work that is clear and concise. The Mustang needs new shocks. Would you expect us to encounter anything that might create issues? Other than the likelihood of rusty bolts. I'm not concerned about taking more than six minutes. I fully anticipate it taking an afternoon, and that's fine.
Thanks!
Hey Dale! Thanks a lot man! I am glad the videos have been helpful! The only thing about an old car is that you never know what you might find with rust and with stuck bolts. I would make a batch of penetrating fluid: th-cam.com/video/2WuVBFTzoKc/w-d-xo.html
Just make sure the area the shock attaches to is solid and rust free. Any rust that you have, sand it away or use a wire wheel and then paint it. Hit it with some black paint. I use this stuff and it is great: www.amazon.com/Rust-Oleum-Automotive-251574-11-Ounce-Bumper/dp/B005H5P5C6/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1420821434&sr=8-2&keywords=bumper+paint
ChrisFix Thanks for the tips, particularly on handling the rust and painting. From what I have found on a quick google search, the front shocks on the Mustang will be pretty easy provided there are no major rust issues. The rear shocks will require removing the back seat to access the top end of the shocks. Certain to take more than six minutes, but hopefully not too much of an issue. Thanks!
Dale Edwards Great! Let me know how it goes!
When the bolts are hand tightened, don't you have to bounce the suspension a little to seat and settle the rubber bushings so they don't over twist and wear out prematurely?
+Wtrxprs007able Not on something like this. There is not enough suspension travel. What you are talking about is pre-load. That is good to do for cars/trucks with a good amount of suspension travel. Here is a video on that: th-cam.com/video/-QczV_6v42A/w-d-xo.html
+ChrisFix ah okay. I was thinking that because I had to for my Landcruiser Prado. Thanks you awesome man
I have the same ratchet / sockets. Nice video man!
HI chris, just wanna ask abut torque wrench numbers, how much force for each common parts like tire nuts or bolts, for coilovers nuts or bolts, for engine mounts nuts or bolts and so on. could you do a video on that? thanks!
+M. Rizal Yogaswara Here you go: th-cam.com/video/3v3hLvuO_KU/w-d-xo.html
Is there a specific way you have to lift your car with the jack if you don't have an actual lift? I have an Astro van that has rusted through rear shocks I was wanting to replace myself
ChrisFix is the man.
Any silicone grease suggested for bushings to prevent squeaking or binding of rubber bushings? Or is there always plenty of clearance?
Chris is basically getting the car workshop places to stop ripping us off
Will it be beneficial if I coat the smooth part of the carriage boat with grease before installing it back?
You don't have to!
+ChrisFix, you put the axle stands underneath the sides and then the jack underneath the axle, right? I was able to break my bottom bolt of my versa free, but the nut is actually inside this pipe. it's a royal pain. i think my problem was that I just used the jack underneath the side i wanted replaced and no axle stands but it's not working. im going to use a torch to heat the rusted nut inside the pipe, but do you think there would be some pressure on the bolt itself, as i was able to break it free?
great vid. Do you have any tutorial about converting or upgrading drumb breakes to disk breaks?