BAMBU LAB Hotend on OTHER 3D Printers - The BEST VALUE High-Flow Hotend?
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 28 เม.ย. 2024
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👉🏻 In this video I will show you how you can use Bambu Lab's hotend on any 3d printer. It makes Bambu hotend the same length as the V6 hotend at 62.3mm.
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📷 VIDEO SHOT ON:
- Fuji X-S10 amzn.to/3Zar9BW
📢 OTHER MENTIONED THINGS:
- @CNCKitchen flow rate video • Easy Hotend Benchmark ...
- Download printable adapter version www.printables.com/model/4570...
- Adapter version for CNC'ing from metal bit.ly/Bambu_V6_CNC
- Printhead design www.printables.com/model/3822...
🕗 TIMESTAMPS:
00:00 - Is it any special?
00:47 - Setting up the hotend
04:36 - Testing the hotend
07:49 - Conclusion
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#3dprinting #bambu #v6 - วิทยาศาสตร์และเทคโนโลยี
I've used the bambu hotend now on my two latest self-built printers including on a multi-hotend printer where the small size really helped in the design - they have worked really well.
Nice! Yeah, the size and performance ratio is crazy good.
I'm doing the same!
With what adapter?
@riccardosacchetti no adapter at all, it is a simple mount with 2x bambu hotend + hextrodort mirrored each others. I will show it in the next month on my YT channel Power3d
@@carloblumer4445 no ma sei il Carlo di power3d?!? Grande! Attendiamo allora!
Interesting take on an alternative hotend.
The CNC design looks great
Thanks for sharing your expirence with all of us 👍 😀
Thanks, glad you liked it!
Yeah I must admit I've bought many a hotend over the years and they ain't cheap. When I bought my x1 carbon and saw the hotend prices I was blown away, so I bought a bunch of them haha.
When hotend cost like some nozzles, it makes sense to do that ;D
I think the main reason your printed adapter wobbled and the metal one did not was because you used a different mount method, not because the plastic one was inherently worse. taking one side of that mount off allows the screw to make solid contact with the hotend itself and thus resulting in a more solid mount. When you sandwich the two pieces of plastic round it, you are losing force to not only the compression of the plastic, but also, the coefficient of friction between the plastic and metal of the hotend is probably a lot lower that the screw directly touching one side of the hotend.
Great summary. Well done.
Glad you liked it! :)
I bought 1 with a upgraded neck which won’t bend. Main reason is its compactness & weight. Very obvious in your picture comparison. I believe it work better for my direct drive HGX extruder. Thanks for sharing ❤.
The first clip you showed of it being used, that was CRAZY wobbly
Haha, it was on a table with casters, that is why ;D
@@DIYPERSPECTIVE did the print work though? Because I don’t think that software can possibly fix that
If your frame and linear motion parts are rigid the table wobble doesn't really affect the print.
Wonderful work in this video
Glad you liked it!
Should try this with the 3rd party bambu hotend and CHT clone nozzle, potentially you could see 40mm/s3 for PLA or more if you wire 2 ceramic heaters in parallel
Thats what i run on my x1c it melts alot more thab i expected
Great videos as always
Thanks!
I have an X1C, and looked at using the hot end in a print head replacement, I went with the E3D Revo, despite the lower cost of the Bambu part for easy nozzle swap.
Do you have any ringing and / or ghosting on parts? I've seen some on youtube after making a purchase and got me kinda worries. I hope I got a good one.
@@redone823 I use Orca slicer aka the SoftFever fork of Bambu Studio, and a hardened 0.6mm nozzle currently, and the standard profiles aren't clever, so I'm slowly dialling them in, but overall the quality is a lot better than what I normally see. I don't run mine as fast, so quality is better, and have good results dialling in my non Bambu filaments with the calibration tools in Orca. I also found standardising line widths and keeping the speeds more consistent with each other (except bridging, support interface and overhangs) made the 0.6mm nozzle produce better quality prints when using the Arachne engine. If ghosting and ringing are your major gripe maybe Klipper integration should be included with your printer of choice.
first time viewer, looking to get a bambu hot end going on my setup, your video was INCREDIBLY helpful. short story wont work on my sprite feels like. Second feeling here, how do you only have 24.6k subs. this was great! new sub here.
Thanks, that's unfortunate as now there's the TZ 2.0 hotend that performs 58% better than stock bambu (my latest video). About subs... I feel like my channel is cursed lol. Glad you liked the video.
BTW, chinese already made a copy of Bambu hotend and sell if for $12, it's improved by adding 2 screws and reinforcement at the heat break and adding replaceable CHT nozzles. It's called TZ hotend. There are versions for Bambu mount, for Ender 3 mount and for V6 mount, so no need to machine the mounting.
Also the Bambu hotend on Bambu printer makes the same ~22 mm3s, unlike advertised 32 mm3s. Tried with 0.4 and 0.6 nozzles.
Fantastic idea well done
Thanks!
Very nice comparison. Thanks!!
Happy you liked it!
great video! Quick question, what software are you using to generate those graphs?
The Qidi Tech hotends are the same. great value. You can also buy the extruder, and even the blower fan. The Qidi one is also good up to 350 C. It seems like these hot ends are better than the aftermarket hot ends.
just to make sure when comparing the flowrates: were both nozzles hardened steel?
Very interesting take to put bambu hotends on other devices due to the interesting price point - I didn't think about that :)
What a great Idea. Thank you! I consider now, to give it a try on my MK3S+. Do you think it works? Espacially the nickel plated nozzle triggers me. I have good experience with the plated copper nozzles.
You should look at the new hot ends that Qidi Tech is is using on their latest core x/y machines... I don't think they have them available for individual sale yet, but it is basically a BL clone with more "off the shelf parts. Like a more "standard" fan, replaceable nozzles, and a rapido style heater block. Great job on the adapter! 👍
It would be a great hotend if they would be using Volcano length nozzles. But they don't - i.imgur.com/SMgsou2.jpg Also you can't buy these hotends on their site (EDIT: nevermind you now can). Thanks!
@@DIYPERSPECTIVE th-cam.com/video/gd6dGx_DeX8/w-d-xo.html
@@DIYPERSPECTIVE Do you have a measurement on how long the Qidi nozzle is?
19mm, volcano is 21mm twitter.com/diyperspective/status/1648962898801180673?t=LHKAKZ7fjPiRtK7dc3wGog&s=19
Pairing this light hotend with an Orbiter 2.0 extruded would give a nice light package for a high speed core xy
Wow this is a wild idea! Way out of my skill set but really awesome to see someone do this!
I was surprised how actually viable it is. Plus it's so close to V6. I bet you would be just fine, but it is definitely more for the tinkerers.
Do you know that chinese started offering on ali CR10 type radiator for instant easy mount (with two adapters even) with same hot block?
Haha, I was thinking about exactly this a couple days ago. I hope Bambu don't raise the price when people start buying them for use with other printers.
They manufacture them in bulk so hopefully, that is not the case. ;D
Do you know what type of connectors are used on P1P hotend?
Which metal type did you use at PCBway for the adapter?
I chose stainless steel but it is a complete overkill and very heavy. I suggest using aluminum 7075, it is more than enough.
After installing bambu lab hottend and soldering wires can you increase maximum printing temperature on Kingroon KP3S from 260 to 280 or 300? And is it safe?
You increase the max temp limit depending on what hotend you installed, so if you are using one from Bambu then yes 300C is officially the max temp for it. It should be safe unless you don't trust the Bambu of its rating, you know. Plus you won't be printing anything high temp on KP3S anyway, so...
@@DIYPERSPECTIVE Ačiū labai už atsakymą bičiuli:)
So really soldered part of stock kp3s thermistor wire which goes to the motherboard doesn’t prevent increasing max temperature to 300C?
I’ve made a custom enclosure for my KP3s 3.0 and it prints quite good Rosa 3D PC+PBT on 250 with V5 upgraded all metal titanium heartbreak, but when my TZ 2.0 hottend will arrive I want to print some temperature towers to test if 250 is enough, and try Prusa PC blend which requires +-275 degrees
I soldered bambu hotend's wires to the stock kp3s wires too, it works just fine, it is not that more powerful than the stock kp3s hotend (40w vs 60w). Now if you would be using a 100w hotend, then yes you should replace the heater's wires too with ones rated for a higher current.
@@DIYPERSPECTIVE Did you increased max temp to 300 on yours, or left at 260?
3:33 can somebody please share link to print this part cooling and hotend cooling model?
I added the files for the Bambu Lab hotend - www.printables.com/model/382202-kingroon-kp3s-30pro-mod-for-e3d-v6-bambu-lab-hoten
I like a lean under extrusion makes for better fitting assemblies
looks like a good choice to modify my anycubic predator. Just need to find lightweight feeder to get a direct extruder there
Sherpa Mini, Sherpa Micro, VZ-HextrudORT, Orbiter 2.0, Sailfin, Sharkfin, and LGX Lite are all GREAT lightweight extruders. Personally, I would go Orbiter 2.0 or Sherpa Micro, but it's your choice
@@coltenmeredith8899 has anyone tested the cheap lerdge direct extruder?
@Jörg Fichl I most definitely haven't, but it looks solid. 4:1 ratio is perfect, larger BMG style gears are great, and lightweight is awesome. That sounds like a great option, but I'm worried the stepper motor is bad quality. I say grab it, and if you don't like it, you can return it
How can someone buy the metal version?
I suspect that the hardened steel tip makes more of a difference than we think. The melting quality is only determined by the length of the melt zone (provided the diameter is correct) for a straight bore nozzle m(not a CHT). When the material arrives at the tip the center of the filament is inevitable not as hot as the outside at high extrusion speeds and the stainless steel tip just can't put that little extra heat in to also melt the center properly.
Without having done scientific testing I noticed that a CHT nozzle gives me significantly stronger parts at higher extrusion speed (especially with ABS). Most probably due to the core of the filament being at a higher temperature when exciting the nozzle. For this reason the first upgrade of a Bambu printer would be to switch to the Ali nozzles with CHT like insert. This configuration seems near ideal to me: the first straight bore zone softens up the filament before splitting it in 3 to get better melt quality. Maybe the copper insert in hardened steel nozzle evens out the melt temperature of the outside versus inside of the filament strand due to the better heat conductivity of the copper insert.
I had a normal V6 hardened steel nozzle with a copper spacer to fix into a volcano heater block, which worked far better than just the hardened nozzle in a normal V6 block and still noticeably better than a nickel plated copper nozzle. I still had to slow the printer down to 10mm3s flow on mechanical parts and dimensionally would print fine up to 26mm3s flow
I picked up a set of Micro Swisses new Volcano CM2 nozzles, 0.6mm and 0.4mm. They have a small hardened steel tip but the majority of the nozzle is copper with nickel plating and non stick coating. I did not thing they where going to be so much better, I'm up to 16mm3s for mechanical parts and around 30mm3s for normal astatic prints
I still haven't tried CHT nozzles, but I'm thinking of putting in a CHT spacer for the volcano hot end
You would be better to mate a voron extruder w the bambu hotend. The bmg like extruders are just not good in the new faster printers/times.
Whats with the bambulab extruder is it also viable on a self build printer?
I don't think it comes with a motor at $40. Also, I don't have one so not sure if it is viable. But Orbiter Extruder v2.0 now is at $60 with an LDO motor at the Trianglelab store. I would rather get that.
ive tried to instal the hotend on a e3 max with klipper, constantly getting 800 degrees on the nozzle temp with nothing in google explaining :/
Just bought a nozzle x for my dragon hf. Now I thinking if it would have been better to buy a Bambu hotend for my Voron….
Bambu hotend's best thing is that it is very reliable because it is a complete unit without the ability to change the nozzle. No nozzle loosening with heat cycling and possible oozzing (great for a PETG printing machine). You should also look into the TZ 2.0 hotend with the CHT clone nozzle if you want a higher flow with the same lightweight design. You can find those very cheap nowadays on Ali. I use it on my V2.4 and V0.2.
@@DIYPERSPECTIVE Yeah the oozing is a problem. I will change to the Bambu hotend. 👍
there are some chinese replicas of the Bambu Lab X1 hotend, can you make a comparison with the original one regarding to print quality and speed printing at 500mm/s?
Oh shit, that KP3S is WAY better than the original, now I gotta get one of those lol, my KP3S is nowhere near stock anymore, but damn the bed being wonky is frustrating! I never seen that upgrade d one before!
By wonky you mean uneven or not rigid?
@@DIYPERSPECTIVE since it's on one rail it can lean really easily. Mine is offset and I had to install shims to get it closer to even.
have a box of bambu hotends clones on their way to my house after this video
Well hopefully one of them is the TZ 2.0 hotend with a clone CHT HS nozzle. It is a great combo, I checked it in this video - th-cam.com/video/KPH1YkYDVzA/w-d-xo.html
The prusa mark 4 uses a single side gear extruder like the titan, does anyone know if they have problems extruding at high flow rates?
The Titan extruder has a tiny filament grip gear, meanwhile, the Prusa Nextruder has a huge gear. I suggest checking this video as it will answer your question th-cam.com/video/AaX1v6qWOnc/w-d-xo.html
The problem with your test is that you are comparing a brass/copper nozzle against a hardened steel nozzle inside the bambulab hotend which is actually 4-5x worst than brass in heat transfer... so if you tested it using a hardened steel nozzle in your other hotend... you will find a significantly different result... or like others have suggested... a 3rd party bambulab hotend which you can swap nozzles....
Did you find out how much the metal adapter would cost to be manufactured by PCB Way?
It is like the price of three hotends, but like I said in the video you can print an ABS CF version that would perform well enough.
@@DIYPERSPECTIVE or you can also make a mold with the 3D printer and then cast it with CF reinforced resin.
What does it cost for a aluminum/stainless/titanium/steel print of the adapter? I dont have a pcbway account, can someone give me a rough ballpark of the prices for all of those materials?
What did it cost to make that part with PCBWay? If you don't mind.
These adapters are now online available. Check article with id 1005005657011516 or 1005005656997503.
Combine it with the Bambu extruder, also from their store
When I saw how affordable their hotends were I stopped at "thats really cool for bambu replacements" and never made the leap to "put it on other printers." Even if it underperforms a volcano hotend, its cheaper and better made than a number of 3rd party non volcano hotends that aren't from ali express and in a very discrete form factor.
True, the price/quality/performance/size/weight ratio is insane. It is probably the lightest and smallest hotend with higher flow capabilities.
Why not compare the Bambu Labs hot end + extruder to the volcano?
Doesnt someone know how to use it on ender 3 i have problem with wireing it i dont know how
Has anyone tried this with a MK3S+?
Or build an nf crazy volcano for the same price or less. You'll need to buy the parts separately but it's worth it.
there are already clones out where you can change the nozzle like normal
If I had only one printer then I would like the ability to change the nozzle too, but now I kinda like the all-in-one type, especially when it is so well priced.
@@DIYPERSPECTIVE The knock offs with changeable nozzle seem priced in the same range. So i would consider to try them. So you have pros from both worlds.
It's probably better value to just get the Trianglelabs CHC Volcano hotend.
Maybe maybe, can't argue that it's not a great value hotend :)
Especially paired with a $5 cht Vulcano clone.
@Twan Heijkoop you could always do the same with a 3rd party bambu hotend (the one swappable nozzle support)
I'd rather pay more for a modular hotend than having a hotend which might become completely useless in case of clogging. Not being able to remove the nozzle can become a real problem.
I wait clever seller just sell ready install kit for ender 3, lol
find system to quiet it it make to many noise
What happens when the nozzle wears out? Throw away the whole thing... convenient but wasteful design
Yep, the bambu extruder, hotend and nozzle is pretty much tapped out at 16 - 18mm³ / second, certainly not anywhere near as "High flow" as some of the other available options out there.
They sure are not high flow though
60$ dollar pcbway metal part
You can by the QIDI Core XY printer für under 500 bucks. It has all the same great features a P1P has and a great extruder. I really don´t get why people are so in awe about the Prusa and Bambu printers, their price to performance, especially prusa is not so great.
The qidi printer is relatively new and I don't think there are as many people simply aware of the the brand and their printers.
The review I just watched on the QIDI core xy had issues with pla, and the reviewer claimed it had to use certain filaments to deliver good quality prints.
The Bambu labs printers appear to work well with nearly every filament I’ve used except blue elegoo pla+ which clogged repeatedly and clogged 1 nozzle so badly I couldn’t clear the clog.
The QUDI may be a good printer, once it can deliver acceptable quality for multiple filament brands and types.
@SierraEcho88 This video is about the hotend, not the printers. But I think you are giving too much credit to the QIDI. The smallest one seems the best option, but the bigger one that I tested... I would never buy a machine like that for my money.
@@DIYPERSPECTIVE Just out of curiosity, which 'bigger one' and why not?
The X Plus 3, because it has some serious flaws that can impact longevity wise and are questionable in general (like cable drag chain dragging and destroying carbon rods, chamber heater blowing very hot air at the heatbed power cable, and more). Also heatbed is thin like on cheap printers and warps at different temps so the first layers are bad. And the noise... Oh my... not because of the motors and the fast movement but because of the fans and their placement without any engineering thought. It is impossible to have the printer in the office space if you print PLA, you will go crazy lol. And when printing ABS it is not insulated so smell escapes very easily.
For the simple reason that the bambu hotend is onepiece with the heatbreake, it wins hands down over absolutely every single hotend you can buy. Whatever utter moron decided that heatbreake and nozzle should seal together and not on a fixed part of the hotend should be made eat every gram óf filament ever wasted.
If theres a step of 3D printing i absolutely hate its any and all things that can result in leaks around the heatbreake. But on a bambu theres no screwed in Heatbreake, so insanely poorly engineered issue solved right there. Sure whatever drill bigger thermistor holes add more heaters, extra mass.. meh.. you can but, it won the second it solved the leak risk issue.
I meen could some heatbreake manufacturer atleast admit enuff to add a collar to the thread that goes in the hotend?.. you know so sane people can just use a copper ring gasket.
People like this will cause shortages for legit Bambu owners and cause the cost to go up. If you want a Bambu printer, buy one.
But why would we stop? It's a great cheap hotend.
Everyone is equally entitled to buy these. You don't need to own a printer to do it.
You can still get an Nf Crazy for 30 bucks doe