Nice! I’ve been searching too for this video for ever. Thanks for that. I am doing the same thing now on truck of mine. I did the bed already. Stripped it and re apoxy primered it. Laid 2 wet coats of single stage gm white, let that dry for like a week then ended up wet sanding it with 2000 grit and sprayed 3 coats of a pearl clear coat. Now, that was a lot of work. You ain’t lying. I’m about to do the cab and the rest. But I am going to just wait 12 hours for the single stage to flash off this time before I add the pearl clear coat over that. Thanks again!
Yes it's alot of work. Specially if there's alot of body work involved. Btw, dont mean to scare you but from what I been told. 2000 grit will not suffice to lay clear over.. from my understanding, 2000 isn't enough "bite" for the clear to grab on too.. usually depends what ur spraying. U want between 320-800 grit. I beleive 800 is kind of the cut off point, maybe even 1000... But keep me updated! Lmk how it holds. I'm one to usually go against the grain lol
yes you should wait for 24 hours to let all the solvents excape from the single stage make sure that the paint is compatible with the clearcoat then 600 grit it then go a clearcoat it
Just helped a lot because all I wanna do is paint my truck in one stage and then put sticker stripes on the front and clear over the stripes so all I wanna do is clear the hood thank you I think this will work
As long as you're within the window of relearning, you're fine. I wouldn't wait longer than 12 hours. If anything passed 18 hours I would scuff down the single stage and then clear
I have been searching the entire world for this video ! Thank you ! I also bought the gorilla pro inflatable paint booth and a gust of wind ripped up the booth and took it 50 feet into the air !! Set it back up ! Painted the truck , it was )105 degrees inside The booth ( used single stage blue metallic! Waited a week . Wet sanded with 1500 grit and now getting ready to clear coat with 2k clear . Any advice on how to get the best possible glossy shine ✨??
Yes, apply wet!! Better to have runs than over spray. If anything practice on a trash panel. You're bound to have some imperfections. My first time I was spraying to scared of getting runs that all I did was mist it and hardly had any clear to even wet sand. Also adjust the gun properly. Don't use any of those filters that go on top of the gun/ inside the cup. And use all highflow fittings. The restricted ones give you more texture. And also sand that single stage down to flat finish. U don't wanna leave any texture. The finish product only looks as good as the foundation/ prep
Yes, no doubt. But 80 here and inside the booth. It feels like 105 suffocating lol. It just gets Inside there pretty bad. The plastic just draws in heat. It's been cooling down much lately. Will be spraying again this week hopefully. And ill just spray either early morning or later eveings
traditionally, single stage is the same chemical as clear i.e. it has clear in it, so you just wait your normal time between coats. they always did this back in the day lacquer was single stage, and they would use clear for the last couple of coats
Yes, i thought the same. Except at first I'd hear bad stories of applying it over. But this came from painters who never attempted it. Some old time painters are the ones who told me to wait the "12hr or over night" method.. it worked great. Till this day, no adhesion issues. But I will attempt a much more closer window next time
As far as I remember the paint company put the window to apply more paint without sanding on the can! Maybe 12 -24 hrs?????In hot areas I’d think the low number to be safe! But I always tack ragged. For peace of mind. But we have bugs. And must spray between 5-10 am. Dew takes dust out of air. Bugs don’t come out until all the dews gone.only two paint jobs out of ? 40 ? Was painting in a different part of the country! My southern Indiana paint rules I gave myself didn’t apply! And with 2 ft of snow in a block building,owner made us leave door half open with a fan to suck overspray out! Both dry sprayed! Enjoyed your video!
Thank you! Yes I beleive this paint had a 6 or 4 hour window to top coat. Some other veteran painters told me to wait 12 hours then spray (following morning) it worked well. Paint hasn't failed since. I couldn't imagine painting in the cold. We get heat over here well we have to wait for cooler temperatures if we're not spraying inside a well ventilated area
Recently sprayed bike w/ 2 med/thick coats of single stage enamel out of rattle cans & went to clear with same brand cans 12hrs later and the top coat lifted and shriveled up. Got a reaction from the solvents that haven’t cured enough , for the record prior to spraying clear , the paint was dry to touch , no prints but im assuming the single stage wants quite a bit longer before spraying. Ill sand the bad spots out tomorrow and re spray with the single stage . Luckily the enamel laid up pretty shiny to begin with. Gonna just clear it next summer.
Which brand did u use? If it was rustoleum, I'm pretty sure it the tds calls for it to be cleared after one week. So it has a 7 day flash Window before you clear it..
@@vanni_doestv4516 it was just some cheap stuff off the shelf down at the hardware, did a bit more research and figured yep , about 7 days… whoops. At the shops i’ve worked @ we sprayed w/ lacquer based paint and hit the cars with clear 30min after laying the base coat , but the second I tried that with Enamel my bike took one look at me and said “you gon learn today”! 🤣
The paint was drying on me fast as I was spraying it ! I even used a extra slow reducer . The truck has lots of dry looking spots and some spots looked ok . My plan is to lightly wet sand with 1500 and 2000 to smooth down the paint enough to hopefully by a miracle from the paint gods to get 3 coats of 2k clear . Any advice from this channel would be very helpful!!
Yes those dry spots are more than likely from not enough material. You might not of applied enough that u might sand through the single stage. If you did. It's best to re shoot again everything with the single stage. But this is good. Single stage is thicker. Will cover any pigtail marks from the sander. And you can re clear after 12 hours without sanding. Just let your first coat of clear be a nice mist/tack coat. Then go and spray wet. Use very good lighting. Watch at an angle how your clear is laying as your spraying. And u want it to look wet as your lying g it down. That's how ull get a nicer finish. Keep spraying wet till your 3rd coat. And you'll have enough material to correct any mistakes so you don't burn through
The filtration isnt the best. Even with the big shop fan I used to push air through the filters, it still got cloudy in there pretty quick. Next time I paint, i plan on runing 2 inline fans with duct runing outside. Along with the shop fan.
I just got the single blower option and then bought a 1700cfm blower for the second intake port and the exhaust fittings for both filters with 12 inch fans. With all that it's close to the 3550cfm like the mobile solutions spray booth. I still prefer my shop downdraft booth but for doing stuff at home this thing is great. I would also recommend having a dedication 20amp circuit installed to use.
As long as it's the same brand, you should be fine. Also I'd suggest shooting 1 coat of just the color, then to the rest with mixed clear. This way you get a goof color foundation.
Yea single stage just takes longer to cure. So I'd figure 8 hours or more would be best bet. The company said 4 hrs is good. But many of painters said 12 hrs is fine w.o scuffing. Honestly different painters said different things.. some wouldnt shot over it unless they scuffed it again
i just painted a fender with single stage napa oem color match single stage and had to blend it to the door. the rest of the car is 2 stage paint. should i clear it it ? if so do u think i should wait a week before wetsanding to put clear on?
Yes, just make sure both paints are compatible, best to go with same brand, same mixture.. if applied properly to a nice finish. It has a deeper gloss look. Then top coat with 1-2 wet coats of clear.. that will give you enough material for light wet sand and buff….
You can but must sand with 500-800g. That's considering that u dont have peel, cracks, chips or oxidation. If you do. Those areas wont bond and will soon have the new clear flaking off.
I prefer 600. More bite for the clear to grab on to. But I've used as little as 400 to 800. Anything above I personally wouldn't touch. I hear many do 1000 and 1200. But that's to smooth for me.
@@vanni_doestv4516 Thank You for answering. Someone told me that I can use 2000 grit but I was afraid that the clear might start peeling off. Should i also scuff decalst/stickers ?
I havent shot any other single stage other than this tcp brand. But it sure did need clear over it. When I shot the ss alone its gloss wasnt very pleasing. After the clear it gave it a really nice depth. Which single stage do u recommend to be true??
Is the down fall of single stage that it fades over time so there for it needs to be buffed out to restore the shine compared to base clear, is that why it would be a good idea to add clear no mater what?
@@vanni_doestv4516 if I encounter any problems like bugs or trash I will wait about 48 hours or until the paint mfg states a full cure time then wet sand and clear. If no problems just wait your normal flash time....usually about 15 -20 minutes.
Depends which single stage you use. This one you can spray without sanding. After flashing for 4 hours. However I waited over night (12 hours) then sprayed without sanding. This method as been done before, and it's best to let all the solvents come up before clearing. You could wet sand if you wish. It's just more work.
Can I spray a urethane clear coat over a single stage enamel metallic paint??. Also when you add flake To the clear are you able to fill roughness in the clear coat once the car has cured.
What brand is the enamel paint?? And no u couldnt feel the flake since I used a smaller size and did not add too much. I also buried it with just clear over the clear/flake
@@vanni_doestv4516 So I bought 2 single stage gallons one is called Fern Green Metallic Acrylic Enamel and the other is Black Metallic Acrylic Enamel there from TCP Global. This is my 1st single stage attempt its gonna be a 2 tone black top the green on the bottom.. I want to add a clear over this but I was told by the company that sold it to me that it's impossible...
So I'd Definitely do a test spot first. I have seen ppl mix clear into the single stage to give it even a better shine and I've also heard of pplbspraying clear over it BUT must flash a certain amount of time so the chemicals don't mix.. check out speedokote channel. He recently painted with acrylic enamel and clear coat. I personally haven't but sure it's possible. Again I'd fine scrap metal and do a test spot. Let it flash about 6-8 hours and see how that does. I wouldn't do it while the single stage is still tacky
@@42042042013 my apologies, let me re clarify.. it takes longer. Making seem like more work. For the most part you have your first 2 applications of medium wet and a float coat. Then your clear but depending on the DTS u shoot it 4-12 hrs after while bc cc it's just done one after another finishing up sooner. My job was more work but only because I shot flake as well. So 2 wet coats. 2 mist coats 3 clear coats..process took a long time
![เจอประจำ ตอน พักเที่ยง [EP.32]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/jvqk6uJoVks/mqdefault.jpg)
Finally a video on single stage and clear coat, thanks bro
Thanks for watching bud!!
Nice! I’ve been searching too for this video for ever. Thanks for that. I am doing the same thing now on truck of mine. I did the bed already. Stripped it and re apoxy primered it. Laid 2 wet coats of single stage gm white, let that dry for like a week then ended up wet sanding it with 2000 grit and sprayed 3 coats of a pearl clear coat. Now, that was a lot of work. You ain’t lying. I’m about to do the cab and the rest. But I am going to just wait 12 hours for the single stage to flash off this time before I add the pearl clear coat over that. Thanks again!
Yes it's alot of work. Specially if there's alot of body work involved. Btw, dont mean to scare you but from what I been told. 2000 grit will not suffice to lay clear over.. from my understanding, 2000 isn't enough "bite" for the clear to grab on too.. usually depends what ur spraying. U want between 320-800 grit. I beleive 800 is kind of the cut off point, maybe even 1000... But keep me updated! Lmk how it holds. I'm one to usually go against the grain lol
yes you should wait for 24 hours to let all the solvents excape from the single stage make sure that the paint is compatible with the clearcoat then 600 grit it then go a clearcoat it
Just helped a lot because all I wanna do is paint my truck in one stage and then put sticker stripes on the front and clear over the stripes so all I wanna do is clear the hood thank you I think this will work
As long as you're within the window of relearning, you're fine. I wouldn't wait longer than 12 hours. If anything passed 18 hours I would scuff down the single stage and then clear
Came out great!!!
Thank you!! I'm actually repainting it. Decided to go darker. Will post video soon.
I have been searching the entire world for this video ! Thank you ! I also bought the gorilla pro inflatable paint booth and a gust of wind ripped up the booth and took it 50 feet into the air !! Set it back up ! Painted the truck , it was )105 degrees inside The booth ( used single stage blue metallic! Waited a week . Wet sanded with 1500 grit and now getting ready to clear coat with 2k clear . Any advice on how to get the best possible glossy shine ✨??
Yes, apply wet!! Better to have runs than over spray. If anything practice on a trash panel. You're bound to have some imperfections. My first time I was spraying to scared of getting runs that all I did was mist it and hardly had any clear to even wet sand. Also adjust the gun properly. Don't use any of those filters that go on top of the gun/ inside the cup. And use all highflow fittings. The restricted ones give you more texture. And also sand that single stage down to flat finish. U don't wanna leave any texture. The finish product only looks as good as the foundation/ prep
Thank you !!
here in Georgia, it stayed closer to 100 most of the summer, with our humidity, it's sept and in the 80s now. and that is perfect for painting.
Yes, no doubt. But 80 here and inside the booth. It feels like 105 suffocating lol. It just gets Inside there pretty bad. The plastic just draws in heat. It's been cooling down much lately. Will be spraying again this week hopefully. And ill just spray either early morning or later eveings
traditionally, single stage is the same chemical as clear i.e. it has clear in it, so you just wait your normal time between coats. they always did this back in the day lacquer was single stage, and they would use clear for the last couple of coats
Yes, i thought the same. Except at first I'd hear bad stories of applying it over. But this came from painters who never attempted it. Some old time painters are the ones who told me to wait the "12hr or over night" method.. it worked great. Till this day, no adhesion issues. But I will attempt a much more closer window next time
As far as I remember the paint company put the window to apply more paint without sanding on the can! Maybe 12 -24 hrs?????In hot areas I’d think the low number to be safe! But I always tack ragged. For peace of mind. But we have bugs. And must spray between 5-10 am. Dew takes dust out of air. Bugs don’t come out until all the dews gone.only two paint jobs out of ? 40 ? Was painting in a different part of the country! My southern Indiana paint rules I gave myself didn’t apply! And with 2 ft of snow in a block building,owner made us leave door half open with a fan to suck overspray out! Both dry sprayed! Enjoyed your video!
Thank you! Yes I beleive this paint had a 6 or 4 hour window to top coat. Some other veteran painters told me to wait 12 hours then spray (following morning) it worked well. Paint hasn't failed since. I couldn't imagine painting in the cold. We get heat over here well we have to wait for cooler temperatures if we're not spraying inside a well ventilated area
Recently sprayed bike w/ 2 med/thick coats of single stage enamel out of rattle cans & went to clear with same brand cans 12hrs later and the top coat lifted and shriveled up. Got a reaction from the solvents that haven’t cured enough , for the record prior to spraying clear , the paint was dry to touch , no prints but im assuming the single stage wants quite a bit longer before spraying. Ill sand the bad spots out tomorrow and re spray with the single stage . Luckily the enamel laid up pretty shiny to begin with. Gonna just clear it next summer.
Which brand did u use? If it was rustoleum, I'm pretty sure it the tds calls for it to be cleared after one week. So it has a 7 day flash Window before you clear it..
@@vanni_doestv4516 it was just some cheap stuff off the shelf down at the hardware, did a bit more research and figured yep , about 7 days… whoops. At the shops i’ve worked @ we sprayed w/ lacquer based paint and hit the cars with clear 30min after laying the base coat , but the second I tried that with Enamel my bike took one look at me and said “you gon learn today”! 🤣
The paint was drying on me fast as I was spraying it ! I even used a extra slow reducer . The truck has lots of dry looking spots and some spots looked ok . My plan is to lightly wet sand with 1500 and 2000 to smooth down the paint enough to hopefully by a miracle from the paint gods to get 3 coats of 2k clear . Any advice from this channel would be very helpful!!
Yes those dry spots are more than likely from not enough material. You might not of applied enough that u might sand through the single stage. If you did. It's best to re shoot again everything with the single stage. But this is good. Single stage is thicker. Will cover any pigtail marks from the sander. And you can re clear after 12 hours without sanding. Just let your first coat of clear be a nice mist/tack coat. Then go and spray wet. Use very good lighting. Watch at an angle how your clear is laying as your spraying. And u want it to look wet as your lying g it down. That's how ull get a nicer finish. Keep spraying wet till your 3rd coat. And you'll have enough material to correct any mistakes so you don't burn through
Thanks for the advice ! I can’t wait to get this truck shining!!
@crazee6821 did you follow through with clear on your single stage? I'm about to do the same thing.
Wanna do mine?? You did great!
sweet video man I'm looking to get one too for my project how's the filtration on it? Overspray get out with the fans it comes with?
The filtration isnt the best. Even with the big shop fan I used to push air through the filters, it still got cloudy in there pretty quick. Next time I paint, i plan on runing 2 inline fans with duct runing outside. Along with the shop fan.
@@vanni_doestv4516 look forward to your results
I just got the single blower option and then bought a 1700cfm blower for the second intake port and the exhaust fittings for both filters with 12 inch fans. With all that it's close to the 3550cfm like the mobile solutions spray booth. I still prefer my shop downdraft booth but for doing stuff at home this thing is great. I would also recommend having a dedication 20amp circuit installed to use.
I am doing this, but am going to mix the clean in with the single stage. Wishing for luck
As long as it's the same brand, you should be fine. Also I'd suggest shooting 1 coat of just the color, then to the rest with mixed clear. This way you get a goof color foundation.
Yes. Doing two coats of color and one of mixed
first time i put clear on single stage it solvent popped on me but i didn't wait 4 + hours i just treated it like a base clear
Yea single stage just takes longer to cure. So I'd figure 8 hours or more would be best bet. The company said 4 hrs is good. But many of painters said 12 hrs is fine w.o scuffing. Honestly different painters said different things.. some wouldnt shot over it unless they scuffed it again
i just painted a fender with single stage napa oem color match single stage and had to blend it to the door.
the rest of the car is 2 stage paint.
should i clear it it ? if so do u think i should wait a week before wetsanding to put clear on?
If u blended to the next panel. I'd definitely hit that with 600 and re clear both panels again to seal that paint
So scuff down the whole door and fender. Mask everything else. And rebspray those panels
Looks Cholo !
Gracias carnal!
Has anybody tried mixing clearcoat in with the paint on final coat
Yes, just make sure both paints are compatible, best to go with same brand, same mixture.. if applied properly to a nice finish. It has a deeper gloss look. Then top coat with 1-2 wet coats of clear.. that will give you enough material for light wet sand and buff….
Can I apply a clear coat on single stage after a whole year of just having single stage on the car?
You can but must sand with 500-800g. That's considering that u dont have peel, cracks, chips or oxidation. If you do. Those areas wont bond and will soon have the new clear flaking off.
@@vanni_doestv4516 thanks so much, I really appreciate the reply 🙏
If you claybar it before ya sand with 600 grit !
Hey Brother,
What them fumes.
Cool video.
Thanks bud!
What's the highest grit you can sand it before clear?
I prefer 600. More bite for the clear to grab on to. But I've used as little as 400 to 800. Anything above I personally wouldn't touch. I hear many do 1000 and 1200. But that's to smooth for me.
@@vanni_doestv4516 Thank You for answering. Someone told me that I can use 2000 grit but I was afraid that the clear might start peeling off. Should i also scuff decalst/stickers ?
Decals are like 12x5 inches
was that a sealer you did first?
Yes primer sealer
Single stage paint true single stage urethane paint with a hardener does not require a clear coat clear properties are already mixed in the paint
I havent shot any other single stage other than this tcp brand. But it sure did need clear over it. When I shot the ss alone its gloss wasnt very pleasing. After the clear it gave it a really nice depth. Which single stage do u recommend to be true??
@@vanni_doestv4516 one that I'm familiar with is PPG concept it's mixed with reducer and hardener definitely requires no clear coat
They're actually called binders theres no actual clear in it ,a paint rep schooled me a little
Is the down fall of single stage that it fades over time so there for it needs to be buffed out to restore the shine compared to base clear, is that why it would be a good idea to add clear no mater what?
@@robertkinney1480 you must be shooting a cheap-ass single-stage then a good single stage definitely does not require a clear coat
I always use single stage and then clear over it.
How long do you usually wait till you shoot clear over??
@@vanni_doestv4516 if I encounter any problems like bugs or trash I will wait about 48 hours or until the paint mfg states a full cure time then wet sand and clear. If no problems just wait your normal flash time....usually about 15 -20 minutes.
Are you on fb?
@@thadhaley941 i got solvent pop when i did this
sucked real bad as it looked great when i left the booth haha
Do u wetsand it before u add the clear coat
Depends which single stage you use. This one you can spray without sanding. After flashing for 4 hours. However I waited over night (12 hours) then sprayed without sanding. This method as been done before, and it's best to let all the solvents come up before clearing. You could wet sand if you wish. It's just more work.
@@vanni_doestv4516 im tryna add a vinyl decal on my truck and clear over it
Can I spray a urethane clear coat over a single stage enamel metallic paint??. Also when you add flake To the clear are you able to fill roughness in the clear coat once the car has cured.
What brand is the enamel paint?? And no u couldnt feel the flake since I used a smaller size and did not add too much. I also buried it with just clear over the clear/flake
@@vanni_doestv4516 So I bought 2 single stage gallons one is called Fern Green Metallic Acrylic Enamel and the other is Black Metallic Acrylic Enamel there from TCP Global. This is my 1st single stage attempt its gonna be a 2 tone black top the green on the bottom.. I want to add a clear over this but I was told by the company that sold it to me that it's impossible...
So I'd Definitely do a test spot first. I have seen ppl mix clear into the single stage to give it even a better shine and I've also heard of pplbspraying clear over it BUT must flash a certain amount of time so the chemicals don't mix.. check out speedokote channel. He recently painted with acrylic enamel and clear coat. I personally haven't but sure it's possible. Again I'd fine scrap metal and do a test spot. Let it flash about 6-8 hours and see how that does. I wouldn't do it while the single stage is still tacky
Can I do metallic singla stage then wait 12 hours then clear?
Yes sir. This was metallic also but wasn't satisfied with it. So added flake as well
@@vanni_doestv4516 dose it look good? Know
@@gamingwithbryan8613 yes it does. Clear over single stage gives it a deep gloss. But its definitely more work than base coat/ clear coat.
@@vanni_doestv4516 why do you say it was definitely more work than bc/cc?
@@42042042013 my apologies, let me re clarify.. it takes longer. Making seem like more work. For the most part you have your first 2 applications of medium wet and a float coat. Then your clear but depending on the DTS u shoot it 4-12 hrs after while bc cc it's just done one after another finishing up sooner. My job was more work but only because I shot flake as well. So 2 wet coats. 2 mist coats 3 clear coats..process took a long time
Just paint over dents rust y todo lol look good at end tho
Lol what!?? Dents?! I must of missed those lol.. but naw no rust. That's the old paint. Looks rusty brown..
Cried all video
Disinflate? Good God.
Get a quality single stage you do not need clear coat and read the directions on the can
You cut hair also
I used to bud, 16 years. Quit about 2 years ago