I was a PPG Certified Automotive Refinish Technician for 46 years ( just retired last Nov.) and it you think making a repair job slick is making you a great painter you are sadly mistaken ( only maybe on a complete) but matching OEM orange peal is striving to be the best refinisher out there , making the vehicle look like its never been repaired it the ideal refinish job!!! Walking up to a repaired vehicle and seeing a few slick panels around a OEM pealy vehicle looks bad ! I Sprayed Aquabase for over 16 years , was one of the first in my town to switch , made color matching and spraying so easy . All I can say is I sure do not miss it as the Insurance companies ruined the trade over 20 years ago !!!! You guys have it easy today , you should have tried matching color in the single stage days where the mottling was so fun to get rid of ....LOL Was glad to see when PPG came out with DBU and DBC solvent base coat back in the day , made color matching much easier .
@@speedokoterefinishnetwork4937 I call bullshit as I have used the shopline on several vehicles through the years to keep costs down and those jobs still look good today as shopline is about the same product as the higher dollar products, and why it's cheap is there is NO WARRANTY so PPG doesn't have to stand behind the product from hobbyists coming in and not knowing how to use the products!
I haven’t watched the video yet but I’m sorry, but honest: hands down SPI Universal Clear is superior to anything I’ve sprayed. However it’s $192 a sprayable gallon. Second is SMR-42 at $106 per sprayable gallon. So it all depends on your budget. I’m buying a bunch of Speedo Kote through e-bay at 10% off.
Considering smr42 is half the cost, I'd say that's not a fair comparison sir 🤣🤣🤣 but dude in all seriousness I really wana try a 1:1 clear! It sounds good!
Can you do a comparison between the Glamour clear Overall vs the panel clear? I think it's just dry times, but I'm curious. The panel version is significantly cheaper than the whole body version.
I ain't no pro just started painting this year. I spray with the wanda 9100 and medium reducer. I get best results by reducing 10 percent. Fluid 3 turns from close and 36 psi. If that pressure ain't high enough it wont lay down flat
..Well done my man..!! I always say that PSI in the 30's is better than PSI in the 20's..!! ( depends on what you have to achieve of course.) but I would say that generally, a high CFM and high PSI (+ Viscosity ) leads to the most fantastic atomized finish. I really like watching "The Dutch car painter." He sprays with high PSI and you can just "Hear" the difference straight away, and his finishes are just amazing. Well worth a watch. Good luck with the rest of your painting career. Protect yourself at all times.
@@Savv242 really depends on the gun you are using. If I am using my ANI 200 skull with clear cap I am spraying at 30psi, if I am spraying with my Devilbiss DV1-C I am spraying at 10psi. That being said Wanda is actually outstanding clear coat and one of my favorites on the market. Their base coats are really good too if you can get past the fact that you mix their base coats 2:1 with reducer instead of 1:1.5 or 1:1
Great video Marco, it's hard to split the two panels really but the Speedokote base defiantly covered better than the other one your mate was using, as for the clear it was really close but again yours looked a little flatter but that could be due to how the sealer was applied. Talking about fisheyes I think you are right, I haven't had them for a couple of years but last week I got them in two panels🤔I think this is a worldwide conspiracy by all car manufactures to put the refinishers in the world out of business 🤷♂🤫🤣😉John UK
The 1:1 clear they sell is completely out of the ball park for most of my subscribers. It's 489$ through tropical glitz retailer. This spi clear was there production clear coat and is around 200 just like the fast dry Euro clear coat
Just a little friendly competition. Chris is a kick ass painter and quite frankly keeps his head down. If he really put himself and his work out there he would smoke a lot of guys in the trade.
Cool video....dudes got a nice shop to work in. I actually use spi epoxy primer...tried their euro clear and didn't really care for it ... maybe it's just me. Nice job brother 👍🇺🇲🇺🇲🇺🇲
I love their Epoxy but it’s painfully slow to cure, which is often fine for restorations. SPI Universal will make your g/f drop her knickers 👙 but it’s $192 a sprayable gallon. Try SMR-42 at $106 a sprayable gallon and Speedo Kote Epoxy is very quick to dry and far more affordable.
Their epoxy sealer is good stuff, their euro clear does suck though its not just you the stuff just isn't very good nor is it a good value like euro clear is known for usually coming in a 5L can with 2.5L can activator and is 2:1. I dont dig spi 4:1 euro clear
I've sprayed a lot of SPI epoxy primer and Universal Clear and love both. But I use other brand urethane primers on top of the epoxy and of course other basecoats. Our local store sells Valspar and HOK, neither of which I've ever had a problem with.
Love your videos.can u teach us ,your mix Ratios you use to mix up the juice ?? Lol 😅 I look forward to every weekly videos u post. Thanks. Ks Jason, Wichita.
Lol 😆, I was wanted the basics on reducing, hardening of the dual stage paints, n to.all your cry baby's 😢, they probably get runs in a basic snap tight model kit Build 🤣 😄 there's always one.
@@JasonBackes- just look on the can and see what the mix ratio is supposed to be or best is online at the Tech sheet. Get some paint cups and follow the chart. If you can’t afford them it’s no big deal. Use an empty soda bottle or something. If the mix ratio is say 2:1 then fill it halfway up and add the hardener until it’s 3/4 full. It doesn’t have to be anywhere near precise. 4:1 is halfway full then about 2 -3 splashes of hardener.
@RustyZipper ,I watched others talk about temperature 🌡 will change the paint like 70 to 90 degrees, your harders will be different on hotter days from colder day.
a back to back compaRISON OF 142 clear to slow glamor clear to fast euro clear.....and to see what the shine is AFTER they dry for a couple of days....would be the b omb !
I have 2 broncos I need body work, 😩 Bedside quarter panels need replaced, can u teach us how?? 😊 I have a 1978 n a 1979 ford's bronco favor, wanting to learn how to do the repair, doesn't have to be a quality job,just a 10 footer !! Lol 😅😊
I’m an SPI fan boy but ain’t no way I’d be paying top dollar for their products unless I was doing restoration quality work. For a daily driver Speedo Kote 💯
I was always taught go with whatever brand clear that matches base brand. If i had to go with something different ,and had a choice and put in the position that i cant get a matching clear would be rubber seal euro. Lol im sorry they changed the name to medallion
Rigid electric sander and a shop vac works just has good. And doesnt run the air compressor to death. Air needs to be used for spraying. Save the compressor.. Electric DA with vac works great 😮
Get you the MAX XT sander they're great a couple hundred bucks absolutely wonderful no oil no noise no air compressor high energy bill they come in different millimeters of throw no issues with mine so far one year
Set both panels out behind the shop and reevaluate which one looks better after being exposed to elements over time. The crappiest clear could look great at first if a guy knows how to lay it down slick.
I’ve been working for corporate body shops for the past 8 years , I want to own my own shop but don’t know where to begin with getting work through the door … do I do fleet work for rental companies or do I focus on insurance claims ?
Avoid rust repair and restoration work! I’d reach out to some mom and pop car dealers who buy lightly wrecked cars to re-sell. You will hands down get burned many times by customers of all types in the first 5 years. Always keep your bills low and cash in the bank for those times. Tire kickers and time wasters will consume your entire day. It’s hard to be the receptionist, panel beater, painter and polishing guy at once. All while balancing the books and ordering parts. I’d start working nights / weekends and build up clients.
Yo Marco! I’m using a Fuji turbine spray system for full color changes, I’ve been using smr1150 Which speedokote clear coat should I try next for a higher quality finish? My turbine runs at 5psi
Thank you. Have been having problems with Matrix MS 52 clear delaminating after a few months. Frustrating as I thought I followed the procedures. Finally bought a gallon of Speedokote clear and will be testing it soon. Looking forward to it.
Im about to paint my '95 tacoma. At first I was thinking base-clear, but after reading many opinions im not sure. BC or SS for the home garage painter?
Tom- you will not regret slapping some clear on their if you plan on keeping the truck. Clear stops UV rays from chalking the paint and helps prevent peeling. The hardest part of any paint job is the prep. You’re already going to be there spraying the color. Just imagine adding 3 more coats of color but it’s clear. 1st coat go very light, a tack coat. Then second coat medium wet, third coat a good solid coat with not many dry spots and be careful on vertical panels you don’t get any runs, overlapping. Always have a wall mounted light to bounce your eye off as you spray following the wet edge. Top surfaces you can slam the clear on with small chance of runs.
A good clear coat is something that lasts a decade to a decade plus with two coats in Southeastern USA Florida Georgia South Carolina Arizona or something like that
Three options Ss1200 only con is it's medium solids Smr 42 high solids Smr32 ultra high solids All three clears hold 100% of there gloss when sprayed in right conditions If ordering directly off the website www.speedokote.com select me as your sales rep (Marco )
Thanks Tried calling the speedo number, but only left a voicemail. Was wondering if I could talk to you or someone about a comparable clear I’m using ppg DC 2000 From watching your videos, I was thinking the high glamour Claire with the slow harder you think I should order something else. Please let me know.
I was told that the all kandy wet wet clear went out of business and speedokote is selling the same clear the all kandy clear recamondation for gun pressure was 50psi is that the same for the speedokote
Our new smr32 is similar in solids yes. Definitely would not recommend 50psi for clear 😂😂😂😂 but for some of these higher solids clears you gota push towards 30 psi
All all kandy paint was Autobahn. All kandy wet wet clear was Autobahn super wet euro clear in a fancy can for double the price. It was never anything special, never needed sprayed at 50psi, and you can still buy an autobahn super wet euro clear kit that makes 7.5L of sprayable clear for $190. Like its decent euroclear, there is definitely better out there and definitely worse but it above medium. I put it over any spi clear or speedokote clear i ever sprayed i can tell you that
@Spiritof_76 Auto Bahn Super Wet euro clear high solids clear in my experience everywhere from flow out, scratch resistance, Over all gloss finish and being higher solid content i bet UV protection. Its actually quite good. I would also use Acme Finish 1 FC740 super brilliant clear or FC770 euro clear over SPI clear for same reasons, chameleon 180 uhs, and Roberlo 510 kronox are two others. They are better products
@@HPAcustomriflesandcerakote So you've sprayed much SPI Universal or just saying those other clears are better without comparing? The Universal flows out just fine, of course based on reducer speed. It is not as scratch resistant because it cures slowly and remains easy to buff, which show cars will receive more often than drivers. I have heard other people tout Acme Finish One and will give that a try soon, but when I saw that guy bragging about "Wet Wet" and finding out it was rebranded Autobahn I was skeptical. Without testing or knowing the ingredients, claims about UV protection are just guesses. What is the part number for the Autobahn clear you like best?
@@speedokoterefinishnetwork4937 cool thanx. I've never used either. But seriously thinking about trying for lesser jobs. Without seeing it in person. Hard to tell or show shrinkage and dye back a few days later, from recordings.lol
Looks like it's a little over $2k for the Mirka kit w/o trolley. Masks are nuisance with my long beard. That's dirt cheap for what you get in my humble opinion.
For a daily driver Dodge Ram, which clear would be best? I dont wanna spend a ridiculous amount on just the clear but i want a pretty decent quality product. It will be painted black@speedokoterefinishnetwork4937
He actually was a mobile auto body tech for 5 years in his early 30's making almost a quarter million a year. That's how he acquired his assets. Those shops were also terrible when he bought them he fixed em up. He's smart very smart
Marco wanted to tell you about the the spray bomb primer. Its not a real good product. I have been using it for a while and have had problems. I had to repaint 2 cars in spots because after they were painted places came up in the paint job where at the last second I had to fix a place before I painted the car. maybe if the primer could have dried a few days the places would not have came up. but I talked to Brad at speedokote and that was his take on it. other than that the product is really good. you need to tell people how easy this stuff buffs
Hey man only issue iv had with the spray can primer is if you put it on to heavy you get these little mini pin holes. If you just do 2 light coats before paint, quick sand and scuff with 400 it's beyond the best stuff iv ever used.
Talking about the base being shiny and smoother is a better thing is kinda silly. It's just the way the paint is made it won't make the final clear more slick. That's just nonsense.and you're literally just painting a rando fender. It's all about a repair at the end of the day and most importantly the warranty and help you'll get from buying from a high end product
@@speedokoterefinishnetwork4937 a tech rep for an automotive coatings company probably doesn't know what they are talking about. But in the words of the dude "well, that's like your opinion man".
At least 30-40 nibs of dirt in that quarter panel, a crap load of orange peel, spraying in a dirty grease ball 2 car garage. But yet my fender / quarter job had a "trash job" 🤣🤣🤣🤣 holy moly I'm just glad I actually got to see this guys work that was talking smack
@@speedokoterefinishnetwork4937this is amazing 😂. Got a great laugh at it. As always, ignore the haters, let your TH-cam channel and your work do the talking 👍🏻
@@DavidHernandez-my9zw sad part is this dude would get absolutely smoked by me painting a Celica behind my body shop next to the dumpster in the grass using nothing but grape soda and fruit punch to clean the panels before paint. And I actually got a cleaner job..... 🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣
That shop is awesome! I don't think you could go wrong with either product...
Both very compare able. Speedokote stuff faster dry times which is nice for production work
I was a PPG Certified Automotive Refinish Technician for 46 years ( just retired last Nov.) and it you think making a repair job slick is making you a great painter you are sadly mistaken ( only maybe on a complete) but matching OEM orange peal is striving to be the best refinisher out there , making the vehicle look like its never been repaired it the ideal refinish job!!!
Walking up to a repaired vehicle and seeing a few slick panels around a OEM pealy vehicle looks bad !
I Sprayed Aquabase for over 16 years , was one of the first in my town to switch , made color matching and spraying so easy .
All I can say is I sure do not miss it as the Insurance companies ruined the trade over 20 years ago !!!!
You guys have it easy today , you should have tried matching color in the single stage days where the mottling was so fun to get rid of ....LOL
Was glad to see when PPG came out with DBU and DBC solvent base coat back in the day , made color matching much easier .
Yea your totally right. Being the best painter is matching factory finish
Ppg is hands down the best paint company, best color and color tools in the industry
@@altairtheeagle ppg jb shopline is garbage . The other ppg brands are good
@@speedokoterefinishnetwork4937 I call bullshit as I have used the shopline on several vehicles through the years to keep costs down and those jobs still look good today as shopline is about the same product as the higher dollar products, and why it's cheap is there is NO WARRANTY so PPG doesn't have to stand behind the product from hobbyists coming in and not knowing how to use the products!
Omni and shopline plus are garbage as well it all peels off you will have peelers same for the clear coat
Shop is badass!!! Very cool video. Great content as always! Surround yourself with successful people like this 😉
Thanks ❤❤
I haven’t watched the video yet but I’m sorry, but honest: hands down SPI Universal Clear is superior to anything I’ve sprayed. However it’s $192 a sprayable gallon. Second is SMR-42 at $106 per sprayable gallon. So it all depends on your budget. I’m buying a bunch of Speedo Kote through e-bay at 10% off.
Considering smr42 is half the cost, I'd say that's not a fair comparison sir 🤣🤣🤣 but dude in all seriousness I really wana try a 1:1 clear! It sounds good!
If I had that shop my life would be complete
Absolutely!
Can you do a comparison between the Glamour clear Overall vs the panel clear? I think it's just dry times, but I'm curious. The panel version is significantly cheaper than the whole body version.
Sure!
@@speedokoterefinishnetwork4937 i 2nd that vote......i always wondered what the end result comparison would be....thanks in advance Jay. aka CarsRcool
I ain't no pro just started painting this year. I spray with the wanda 9100 and medium reducer. I get best results by reducing 10 percent. Fluid 3 turns from close and 36 psi. If that pressure ain't high enough it wont lay down flat
36 psi.. That's a lot of air! Lol
..Well done my man..!! I always say that PSI in the 30's is better than PSI in the 20's..!! ( depends on what you have to achieve of course.) but I would say that generally, a high CFM and high PSI (+ Viscosity ) leads to the most fantastic atomized finish. I really like watching "The Dutch car painter." He sprays with high PSI and you can just "Hear" the difference straight away, and his finishes are just amazing. Well worth a watch. Good luck with the rest of your painting career. Protect yourself at all times.
@@Savv242 really depends on the gun you are using. If I am using my ANI 200 skull with clear cap I am spraying at 30psi, if I am spraying with my Devilbiss DV1-C I am spraying at 10psi. That being said Wanda is actually outstanding clear coat and one of my favorites on the market. Their base coats are really good too if you can get past the fact that you mix their base coats 2:1 with reducer instead of 1:1.5 or 1:1
Great video Marco, it's hard to split the two panels really but the Speedokote base defiantly covered better than the other one your mate was using, as for the clear it was really close but again yours looked a little flatter but that could be due to how the sealer was applied.
Talking about fisheyes I think you are right, I haven't had them for a couple of years but last week I got them in two panels🤔I think this is a worldwide conspiracy by all car manufactures to put the refinishers in the world out of business 🤷♂🤫🤣😉John UK
Yea it was close!
Hopefully the KIND of SPI Clear is specified at some point. They have 3 or 4. Universal 1:1 is on my Civic and it's top notch stuff.
The 1:1 clear they sell is completely out of the ball park for most of my subscribers. It's 489$ through tropical glitz retailer. This spi clear was there production clear coat and is around 200 just like the fast dry Euro clear coat
Thank you. I figured it was Production or Euro. Euro being so thick most will reduce it it's a 4:1:1-3 as a user prefers.
I know this was a friendly paint shoot off but you killed him Marco
That speedokote laid down 💪🏿
Just a little friendly competition. Chris is a kick ass painter and quite frankly keeps his head down. If he really put himself and his work out there he would smoke a lot of guys in the trade.
Cool video....dudes got a nice shop to work in. I actually use spi epoxy primer...tried their euro clear and didn't really care for it ... maybe it's just me. Nice job brother 👍🇺🇲🇺🇲🇺🇲
This was there production clear, I was pretty disappointed in how slow it dried for a "production clear" But other than that very decant product
I love their Epoxy but it’s painfully slow to cure, which is often fine for restorations. SPI Universal will make your g/f drop her knickers 👙 but it’s $192 a sprayable gallon. Try SMR-42 at $106 a sprayable gallon and Speedo Kote Epoxy is very quick to dry and far more affordable.
Their epoxy sealer is good stuff, their euro clear does suck though its not just you the stuff just isn't very good nor is it a good value like euro clear is known for usually coming in a 5L can with 2.5L can activator and is 2:1. I dont dig spi 4:1 euro clear
I've sprayed a lot of SPI epoxy primer and Universal Clear and love both. But I use other brand urethane primers on top of the epoxy and of course other basecoats. Our local store sells Valspar and HOK, neither of which I've ever had a problem with.
Love your videos.can u teach us ,your mix Ratios you use to mix up the juice ?? Lol 😅 I look forward to every weekly videos u post. Thanks. Ks Jason, Wichita.
Fruit punch or grape soda?
Grape soda adds a little more adhesion
Lol 😆, I was wanted the basics on reducing, hardening of the dual stage paints, n to.all your cry baby's 😢, they probably get runs in a basic snap tight model kit Build 🤣 😄 there's always one.
@@JasonBackes- just look on the can and see what the mix ratio is supposed to be or best is online at the Tech sheet. Get some paint cups and follow the chart. If you can’t afford them it’s no big deal. Use an empty soda bottle or something. If the mix ratio is say 2:1 then fill it halfway up and add the hardener until it’s 3/4 full. It doesn’t have to be anywhere near precise. 4:1 is halfway full then about 2 -3 splashes of hardener.
@RustyZipper ,I watched others talk about temperature 🌡 will change the paint like 70 to 90 degrees, your harders will be different on hotter days from colder day.
@RustyZipper it can be difficult for a newbie, with mixing up. U your paint , then a Reducer and harder to a mix,
Think the true judge of clear is to put it out in the sun and let the weather work.
Both are affordable options that do the job
a back to back compaRISON OF 142 clear to slow glamor clear to fast euro clear.....and to see what the shine is AFTER they dry for a couple of days....would be the b omb !
Sure!
@@speedokoterefinishnetwork4937 Thanks Marko....Your are the Man ! ...Jay.
I have 2 broncos I need body work, 😩 Bedside quarter panels need replaced, can u teach us how?? 😊 I have a 1978 n a 1979 ford's bronco favor, wanting to learn how to do the repair, doesn't have to be a quality job,just a 10 footer !! Lol 😅😊
I do have a auto body school
Great vid. Watch Speedokote clear did you use? Keep the vids coming
Fast dry Euro
I’m an SPI fan boy but ain’t no way I’d be paying top dollar for their products unless I was doing restoration quality work. For a daily driver Speedo Kote 💯
I use speedokote on resto style jobs and warranty work but I use there higher end stuff like the ss1200 or the smr42
Agree with something in the air recently switch brands of clearcoat and get micro fisheyes every time
Yup. china probably done threw some of that corona in our clears bro 🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣
Another great video from the master! Marco I need to come up from Florida and have you paint my Mustang GT Brother!
Anytime lol
I was always taught go with whatever brand clear that matches base brand. If i had to go with something different ,and had a choice and put in the position that i cant get a matching clear would be rubber seal euro. Lol im sorry they changed the name to medallion
Typically best way to go
Rigid electric sander and a shop vac works just has good. And doesnt run the air compressor to death. Air needs to be used for spraying. Save the compressor..
Electric DA with vac works great 😮
Guna try this
@@speedokoterefinishnetwork4937 uses 5 inch paper with holes.
Get you the MAX XT sander they're great a couple hundred bucks absolutely wonderful no oil no noise no air compressor high energy bill they come in different millimeters of throw no issues with mine so far one year
Looks good sir .
Thanks!
Great videos new sub here! Have a question how does those clear work with pearls and thinking about getting this for my old school if it holds up well
All of our clears are uv tested for 2000 hours
Set both panels out behind the shop and reevaluate which one looks better after being exposed to elements over time. The crappiest clear could look great at first if a guy knows how to lay it down slick.
Yup exactly what we are doing!
Showdown FTW! I love it!!!
Boooyaaaa!
I’ve been working for corporate body shops for the past 8 years , I want to own my own shop but don’t know where to begin with getting work through the door … do I do fleet work for rental companies or do I focus on insurance claims ?
Cash work for starts mabey?
Avoid rust repair and restoration work! I’d reach out to some mom and pop car dealers who buy lightly wrecked cars to re-sell. You will hands down get burned many times by customers of all types in the first 5 years. Always keep your bills low and cash in the bank for those times. Tire kickers and time wasters will consume your entire day. It’s hard to be the receptionist, panel beater, painter and polishing guy at once. All while balancing the books and ordering parts. I’d start working nights / weekends and build up clients.
@@RustyZipper this is why I have a 20$ estimate fee.
Yo Marco! I’m using a Fuji turbine spray system for full color changes, I’ve been using smr1150 Which speedokote clear coat should I try next for a higher quality finish? My turbine runs at 5psi
Smr1150 atomizes very easily .
Could try the smr42 for a higher gloss and higher build
Love me some Wanda!!
SPI's show clear is a top notch clear, but I'd go acme for production on the poverty side simply due to availability
There 1:1 clear does not fully harden and not scratch resistant, but does provide good thick solids content. Everything has its drawbacks
Impressive! Question: How does this clear compare to the Matrix clears? (ms 52, ms 42).
Very comparable
Due to new owners it’s not the same anymore, a lot of shops have stopped using Matrix because of it.
Thank you. Have been having problems with Matrix MS 52 clear delaminating after a few months. Frustrating as I thought I followed the procedures. Finally bought a gallon of Speedokote clear and will be testing it soon. Looking forward to it.
@@ACLTony the new smr32 is pretty good. Smr 42 is also great. We have lots of options
@@speedokoterefinishnetwork4937 Thanks! Can you post a link to the catalog or products list.
Im about to paint my '95 tacoma. At first I was thinking base-clear, but after reading many opinions im not sure. BC or SS for the home garage painter?
Meehh single stage is a little easier.
Most applications 2 coats and your done
@@speedokoterefinishnetwork4937 Thanks
Tom- you will not regret slapping some clear on their if you plan on keeping the truck. Clear stops UV rays from chalking the paint and helps prevent peeling. The hardest part of any paint job is the prep. You’re already going to be there spraying the color. Just imagine adding 3 more coats of color but it’s clear. 1st coat go very light, a tack coat. Then second coat medium wet, third coat a good solid coat with not many dry spots and be careful on vertical panels you don’t get any runs, overlapping. Always have a wall mounted light to bounce your eye off as you spray following the wet edge. Top surfaces you can slam the clear on with small chance of runs.
Nice shop man let me know next time you’re in Newburgh that’s where I’m at !
Absolutely!!!!
Thats a nice paint gun👍 Almost looks like its beating that Tekna😁
I rep my own brand pretty well. Crazy thing is it's only 250 bucks with a rebuild kit, regulator and air fittings
A good clear coat is something that lasts a decade to a decade plus with two coats in Southeastern USA Florida Georgia South Carolina Arizona or something like that
Our clears are uv and salt water tested for 2000 hours before put on the website
Good to see that you came to my hood! I’m from the burgh! Good stuff!
I ain't even far from there lol only a few hours
@@speedokoterefinishnetwork4937 that’s so cool!
@@dollabillbrunson8107 come to my TH-cam subscriber party
What's the hands down glossiest wet look clear coat from Speedokote?
Three options
Ss1200 only con is it's medium solids
Smr 42 high solids
Smr32 ultra high solids
All three clears hold 100% of there gloss when sprayed in right conditions
If ordering directly off the website www.speedokote.com select me as your sales rep (Marco )
What’s the best clear to put on vintage car paint with spots of patina
Smr42 probably best bet
Spi
Sweet content, Boss😮 TYVM
Thanks bud!
I love stuff like this
Glad you did!!
Which speedokote clear/ hardner was used for this video??
3:45 it's in the video
Thanks
Tried calling the speedo number, but only left a voicemail. Was wondering if I could talk to you or someone about a comparable clear
I’m using ppg DC 2000
From watching your videos, I was thinking the high glamour Claire with the slow harder you think I should order something else. Please let me know.
@@chrisfitzgerald3961 shoot me an email we can exchange contact info
cash2kcars@gmail.com
I was told that the all kandy wet wet clear went out of business and speedokote is selling the same clear the all kandy clear recamondation for gun pressure was 50psi is that the same for the speedokote
Our new smr32 is similar in solids yes. Definitely would not recommend 50psi for clear 😂😂😂😂 but for some of these higher solids clears you gota push towards 30 psi
All all kandy paint was Autobahn. All kandy wet wet clear was Autobahn super wet euro clear in a fancy can for double the price. It was never anything special, never needed sprayed at 50psi, and you can still buy an autobahn super wet euro clear kit that makes 7.5L of sprayable clear for $190. Like its decent euroclear, there is definitely better out there and definitely worse but it above medium. I put it over any spi clear or speedokote clear i ever sprayed i can tell you that
@@HPAcustomriflesandcerakote Autobahn is better than SPI Universal clear? In what way?
@Spiritof_76 Auto Bahn Super Wet euro clear high solids clear in my experience everywhere from flow out, scratch resistance, Over all gloss finish and being higher solid content i bet UV protection. Its actually quite good. I would also use Acme Finish 1 FC740 super brilliant clear or FC770 euro clear over SPI clear for same reasons, chameleon 180 uhs, and Roberlo 510 kronox are two others. They are better products
@@HPAcustomriflesandcerakote So you've sprayed much SPI Universal or just saying those other clears are better without comparing? The Universal flows out just fine, of course based on reducer speed. It is not as scratch resistant because it cures slowly and remains easy to buff, which show cars will receive more often than drivers. I have heard other people tout Acme Finish One and will give that a try soon, but when I saw that guy bragging about "Wet Wet" and finding out it was rebranded Autobahn I was skeptical. Without testing or knowing the ingredients, claims about UV protection are just guesses. What is the part number for the Autobahn clear you like best?
Just curious. Which SPI clear was used?
Production
@@speedokoterefinishnetwork4937 cool thanx. I've never used either. But seriously thinking about trying for lesser jobs. Without seeing it in person. Hard to tell or show shrinkage and dye back a few days later, from recordings.lol
@@thehotrodstation3313 he's got them at his shop I'll ask him how there doing
where is this shop located in NY?
Are you looking to have work done ?
I actually have some of your fish eye reducer.
Still have to try this and iv been in the field over 12 years
Marco, internet OSHA police here: WhEr iS YoUr ResPiraToR??? keep trolling these haters! LMAO
🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣
Looks like it's a little over $2k for the Mirka kit w/o trolley.
Masks are nuisance with my long beard.
That's dirt cheap for what you get in my humble opinion.
Absolutely!
Spi universal is the truth
Absolutely everyone has a price point and quality they want
For a daily driver Dodge Ram, which clear would be best? I dont wanna spend a ridiculous amount on just the clear but i want a pretty decent quality product. It will be painted black@speedokoterefinishnetwork4937
can't hide dads money/inheritance/lottery winnings but he's working painting cars good for him, your stuff is better marco!!!!!!
He actually was a mobile auto body tech for 5 years in his early 30's making almost a quarter million a year. That's how he acquired his assets. Those shops were also terrible when he bought them he fixed em up. He's smart very smart
Marco wanted to tell you about the the spray bomb primer. Its not a real good product. I have been using it for a while and have had problems. I had to repaint 2 cars in spots because after they were painted places came up in the paint job where at the last second I had to fix a place before I painted the car. maybe if the primer could have dried a few days the places would not have came up. but I talked to Brad at speedokote and that was his take on it. other than that the product is really good. you need to tell people how easy this stuff buffs
Hey man only issue iv had with the spray can primer is if you put it on to heavy you get these little mini pin holes. If you just do 2 light coats before paint, quick sand and scuff with 400 it's beyond the best stuff iv ever used.
Talking about the base being shiny and smoother is a better thing is kinda silly. It's just the way the paint is made it won't make the final clear more slick. That's just nonsense.and you're literally just painting a rando fender. It's all about a repair at the end of the day and most importantly the warranty and help you'll get from buying from a high end product
I'm sure your a well qualified expert in the trade..
We are so grateful for your opinionated response.
@@speedokoterefinishnetwork4937 a tech rep for an automotive coatings company probably doesn't know what they are talking about. But in the words of the dude "well, that's like your opinion man".
@@verblvik ok sure .
Crazy amount of trash and peel to be honest.
@@jamesofallthings3684 your more than welcome to show us a better way to do it.
Me and all my subscribers are here to learn.
its our off day. we was both off that day. sounds like a ton of excuses for having a trash job expecting perfection. no dust huh...
Your more than welcome to come show us a better way.
th-cam.com/users/shortsjqOFfqmkF0M?si=m_UTpZUIskCEj0zN
At least 30-40 nibs of dirt in that quarter panel, a crap load of orange peel, spraying in a dirty grease ball 2 car garage.
But yet my fender / quarter job had a "trash job"
🤣🤣🤣🤣 holy moly I'm just glad I actually got to see this guys work that was talking smack
@@speedokoterefinishnetwork4937this is amazing 😂. Got a great laugh at it. As always, ignore the haters, let your TH-cam channel and your work do the talking 👍🏻
@@DavidHernandez-my9zw sad part is this dude would get absolutely smoked by me painting a Celica behind my body shop next to the dumpster in the grass using nothing but grape soda and fruit punch to clean the panels before paint. And I actually got a cleaner job..... 🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣