Cars have gone 8’s with slapper bars, and been on the bumper too, they work quite well if set up right. A lot of racers ditch the rubber snubber and use a bolt, and lengthen it so it actually contacts the leaf spring, that way it pre loads the suspension a little, and hits the tire before completely loading the suspension, like a caltrac. At least that’s how it was done in the past before everyone got caltracs, myself included. And I too would ditch that overload spring some day if you want the truck to hook...
Shit Box hmm can you tell me why that is because I was thinking the fact i chucked my overloads on my 93 gmc c1500 would hurt me a bit even with slapper or traction bars
Kohner Bruntjen, I could be wrong but i think the overload spring makes the spring pack too stiff for the traction bar to work properly, the spring has to load some so the snubber can contact the spring, hence the term slapper. Just my opinion...
Kohner Bruntjen, Looks like Snider’s truck has a light spring pack, only 2 leafs and an overload, my C10 has 5 leafs and an overload, I doubt a traction bar would even contact the spring under load, his truck probably won’t be a big deal with less of a spring pack...
That is easy to do with a bolt, very easy the trick is keeping the rubber stopper on the thing. I use the body panel epoxy. I ream the rubber out a little bit and then I go to work to set the preload after the thing dries on the bolt head. Another trick is to put a little weld on the bottom of the bolt to keep the nut from loosening up on ya and falling off inside the traction bar while driving around. It can be real pain in the ass if the thing loosens up completely and bends the bolt on ya. Trim the bolt to size. Some guys tend to pass the stopper bolt completely thru the traction bar so they can double nut it at the top and bottom which is also fine and it works because that is how I do it... I used case hardened bolts my buddy swipes at a heavy equip place he works at. Tempered hardened metal bolts tend not to bend at all.
I made the "Cal-Tracks" for our S10, cost about $60. Two pairs of weld in heim joint bungs (2 left hand and 2 right hand), 2 left and 2 right hand heims, DOM tubing and some 1/4 plate to make the brackets out of.
Your leaf springs are so nice compared to mine, imagine the wheel hop with 33 in mudders my truck lost 10 pounds of rust last time I sent it. Keep the videos coming, I don't miss a show
Hookup will happen. You need to get longer ones so U-bolt mounts behind and in front of axle. As your axle raps and the rubber snubber hits the front of the sprint, it transfers weight to the rear U-bolt/rear of bar and uses that inertia to slam the rear axle/tire into the ground, which is go motion. In my mopars it has turned an open diff to a posi. I've got 300+ hp, you've got more. Your overpowering your tires.
Damn good burnout!. My 92 Sierra is a one wheel peeler. Kinda lame, but I plan on putting in an Eaton Truetrac locker into my diff. to fix the one wheel peel problem.
Yeah, like the last major piece to the puzzle is a looser converter. And, I'm definitely gonna be getting those SpeedEng bars at some point. I really like the way they have the snubber that contacts the eye instead of putting a bunch of pressure on the leaf like CalTracs
I own a 1975 Pontiac Firebird Formula 400. It came with traction bars. So I removed them because the paint was coming off and sanded the dead paint. Repainted it yellow. A lot of car guys where sucked in to my car for those Shiney traction bars.
I have a socket and nut tip most people might laugh at this but I am as serious as it gets about saving time doing simple shit can turn a nightmare especially with NYLOCK nuts because sometimes and not all the time the plastic tends to bind the nut inside a socket. A little cooking oil like veggie oil or olive oil works better than any lubricant you can buy cept trans fluid does the trick but not everyone has trans fluid in a spray bottle like I do so cooking spray is the next best thing. For reasons unknown to me in the scientific world WD and CRC just don't work at keeping a NYLOCK from binding inside a socket.
4 hours on the nut? Wow 😮... I’ve got them stuck before usually just heat the socket up and cold water dunk it and it’ll come out. Does that truck have the 4L60E Transmission? If so how many miles can you expect it to live. Mine has 163.000 shifts smooth but it’s chirping a little.
The nut only took like a minute or so to get out, it was just being difficult. But, yeah it has a 4l60e. When I bought the truck the guy said it was freshly rebuilt and 2 days later I lost 3rd and 4th gear, so I had a local guy rebuild it last year and it's been doing phenomenal since then. And, I drive it the same way off camera that I do on. I have no idea how long it'll last. People have said the Corvette Servo that another dude just asked me about has helped get rid of the slipping and chirping
Ok cool. I was just curious about that chirp. Im not having any issues other than hearing that chirp occasionally. Mine is 4 wheel drive if that makes any difference?
Sorry just stumbled across this video . Having same trouble with my 1982 dodge D150 short bed pickup. It has lightly modified 318 with racing 727 and 8-1/2 rear with 3:55 and posi . I believe it use to be a 6 cylinder truck because it has 4 thin leaf springs instead of 6 thick leafs . Im planning on swapping to heavy duty rear springs and some Lakewood traction bars and should take car of the problem? What kind of mufflers you running on that pickup that did the burnout?
Depends on what your goal is with the truck, but just doing tracrion bars and upgrading the shocks could be the way to go. And it has a Speed Engineering X Pipe
It has new coil over performance rear shocks . On your pewter colored chevy truck what brand of muffler are you running? Im just running duals no x pipe or H pipe .
Hate to tell you but there's only supposed to be an 1 /8"at the snubber at the most! Anything more than that is wasted motion is hard on everything. You can shim the snubber up closer on that style of traction bar. I trimmed the top half inch of my snubber off and adjusted up properly and my 70 Chevelle would hit second gear so hard that it would chirp the tires and jump sideways!! Lol never got tired of that feeling 🙃!!! Good luck with all of your projects and keep up the good work 👏
So what your sayin is slapper bars are more for removing wheel hop and doin clean burnout not really for traction but cal trac are more for the track or high hp to keep traction with all the power but are better because they can be used for on and off the track right?
Thats a broad generalization, but that's kind of how I feel about them. Cal Tracs plant the tire better than just slapper bars. But I know plenty of people pulling great 60 foots with slapper bars
Just my 2 cents but clamping the bottom "overload" leaf is probably going 2 have a negative impact on your ride quality. "Stiffer" I'm guessing your not putting a lot of weight in the bed so you could remove the overload spring to retain factory ride with the traction bars. Also if I remember correctly the front snubber is threaded and can be adjusted closer to the spring eye to fine tune the bars.
Yeah, it did stiffen up the rear a touch, but not too bad. It almost improved it a little. I do actually use this as a truck lol I just hauled a couple yards of mulch in the bed last week. And, I'm definitely going to get something else down the road, probably the new Speed Engineering traction bars. And yeah I moved the snubber as far ahead so the bars could be moved as close as possible to the axle.
If going to buy a converter get a 3600+ i messed around with 3000-3200 yank-fti-circle D. had way much money wrapped up in a the wrong converter. Order a yank ss 3800 man was a whole different animal. Ran 8.1s 216/220 cam, 410s tru-trac, 28" drag radial. Locks up at 40 mph so its good on a daily. I drove my truck everywhere.
After finishing the latest episode of Finnegan's Garage, I felt the need for another Snidertron3000 video. Kinda bummed I didn't see one. Refreshed my feed and there you were! My lucky day! Great videos, bud. Keep at it.
SniderTron 3000 Keep at it and you never know what'll happen. You have great content. Keep doing what you're doing and you'll get the recognition you deserve.
You ended up pinning the last smaller spring against the top ones. Doing that alone stiffens up the springs so much it sometimes stops the springs from twisting but the truck will be extremly stiff. I'm pretty sure the slapper would help also but that did aid you.
Yeah, I knew it would clamp that spring, but that's more of a minor inconvenience than anything else. The truck still rides totally fine. All it really did was make the rear end drop another half inch
@@SniderTron3000 Nothing bad on you personally. I watch a lot of car vids and it just occurred to me I never see people use standard ratchets anymore. Everything is powered.
@@jamessouthworth1699 I think for videos, it just takes so long that it either gets edited out or they just use an impact or something. Cause I definitely still use my ratchets a lot. I just had to buy a new 3/8 drive a few weeks ago
I'd love something like these for my truck, but they hang down so low though. I'm already at a 12 inch drop in the rear I can't afford to lose more clearance ugh
I own a 95' Ford bronco, that has a Cobra-Jet 650hp engine with a 100hp supercharger, added with an accelerator activated NOS. I roast tires, even in 4 wheel drive. I can't seem to stop them from spinning, no matter what I do. I want to know how you get to do your take-offs w/o tire spins. Is it a 'clutch-brake', or 'Detroit lockers'? I need help. I LOVE my take-offs but HATE destroying my tires. Any suggestions and/help are really needed. At $500 a tire, it's too expensive. Or would 'caltracs' do the trick?
I'm just constantly on craigslist and facebook looking to see whats for sale or trade. There are really good deals out there if you're willing to not have a perfect vehicle. The gold truck has 240,000 miles and some rust. The black truck didn't run at all when I got it.
Hey man, I saw that you ordered the speed engineering exhaust. Have you seen their new traction bars? They look pretty legit and maybe those might be better. Either way like you said you got these for free so shit it’s worth. Cool vid 👍🏼
The transmission honestly hasn't missed a beat. The old man that rebuilt it did some sort of wizardry to it because I thought he did just a stock rebuild
If you really care about it, I would look into the Speed Engineering traction bars. They said that even though they're for the 99+ trucks, they should still fit the 88-98 just fine, and they look like a fantastic design
I've looked into it a little and the only thing I can find about it is that it makes the 1-2 shifts quicker. But, I have some tuning software and I got it so that shifts super quick in tow/haul mode. So, I'm just not sure if it's worth it. I mean, obviously its going to be an upgrade regardless, I just haven't found the answers to the questions I'm looking for before doing it.
yeah I get you . I have just installed one in 01 silverado it make a little difference but only on 2 and 4 gears it still need a good tune and some headers
just an fyi all you needed to do was put a square ubolt on that overload leaf you put the c clamp on and clamp it to the rest of the leaf pack would have had the exact same effect
Thank you for messing with the GMs! It’s hard to find build as you go videos with the gms. Sick of looking at mopar. Fuck ya bud, I literally went to the beginning this morning. Shout out from Canada my dude!
What gear and tires do you have? Usually if you can get enough wheel speed you can power through the hop. Mine only did it when I was at a lower wheel speed with the 275's
It... I don't know. I could see why it would work, and why it wouldn't be that effective. But, I think the best bet would be the ladder style traction bars if you were getting serious about it.
SniderTron 3000 thanks for the reply but like in a budget build for say. You should make a video on that testing to see if they are good for drifting or at least do some donuts! For scientific reasons to see if they help.
I would think that if you kept them preloaded just a touch then they would work for drifting. And, man, there's like nowhere good near me to try to risk ripping a few donies. The closest parking lots are either a local church or the high school and both have cameras lol
I have been watching your videos a while man and they are bad ass, you should check out my 383 c1500! You might wanna set up your 88 similar to my truck! It rips for an extended cab and a little 383
@@SniderTron3000 Well, I put em on. My truck is a pavement pounder and my daily, but after installing block in the rear, it revealed how worn out my rear leafs are. The driveshaft sliding in and out of the tailshaft makes a horrendous clunk when accelerating and coming to a stop. These cured the acceleration part. No money in the ol budget for a real set of traction bars or new leaves, so these will have to do for now. Appreciate you doing these, helped me out in a pinch.
@@theANGRIERone just saw this comment i have a 4wd i want to put these same universal bars on but just for show. Will they mess with my towing i tow often
@@sergiocaballero7404 I wound up going with Pro Comp lateral bars. I lost one of the pinion snubbers almost immediately on the slapper bars. Probably my fault for not tightening it down. Not sure on towing, though. I don't tow anything with my truck. can't see how they would hurt really? Then again, I don't know much about towing stuff.
@@theANGRIERone those are expensive again 50 bucks for that mean stance look the traction bars give us is something im willing to pay unless it messes with my towing
This is definitely worth the read and explains the differences between a bunch of different suspension setups www.competitionengineering.com/content/understanding-basics-chassis-suspension-traction-equipment
Haha, thanks, man. I want to go with the Circle D 3000, but I'm considering just tossing in a trailblazer converter just because they stall around 2500 and they're cheap. And, I've thought about doing some more bike videos
Best part is.... didn't cost a cent! If it works but needs to be improved upon, improve it or upgrade! Turd head's gonna stink no matter where he goes!
What ive seen in your truck the issue you have is because you have removed 2 or 3 leafsprings so it is weak with that traction bar thing you are just stressing the shit out of your existing 2 leafs . you are gonna end up breaking a u bolt or a shacle . looks cool tho with those things
If the rest of your setup is right then yeah. Main things are your tire, leafs, shocks and getting these all setup right so they work well together. Mine is far from right, I just have it stopping wheel hop. If you're serious about it look up an Hot Rod article about Ron Rhodes, he has some great info that he learn on his Camaro.
SniderTron 3000 alright I’ll look him up thanks for the information I’m pushing about 524 to the wheels on a 03 6.0l Chevy Silverado with headers tune intake and built heads with a 4l80e so I get a lot of hop and it’s worrying me that I might mess something up
Cars have gone 8’s with slapper bars, and been on the bumper too, they work quite well if set up right. A lot of racers ditch the rubber snubber and use a bolt, and lengthen it so it actually contacts the leaf spring, that way it pre loads the suspension a little, and hits the tire before completely loading the suspension, like a caltrac. At least that’s how it was done in the past before everyone got caltracs, myself included. And I too would ditch that overload spring some day if you want the truck to hook...
Shit Box hmm can you tell me why that is because I was thinking the fact i chucked my overloads on my 93 gmc c1500 would hurt me a bit even with slapper or traction bars
Kohner Bruntjen, I could be wrong but i think the overload spring makes the spring pack too stiff for the traction bar to work properly, the spring has to load some so the snubber can contact the spring, hence the term slapper. Just my opinion...
Okay well Now I'm curious which it is lol
Kohner Bruntjen, Looks like Snider’s truck has a light spring pack, only 2 leafs and an overload, my C10 has 5 leafs and an overload, I doubt a traction bar would even contact the spring under load, his truck probably won’t be a big deal with less of a spring pack...
That is easy to do with a bolt, very easy the trick is keeping the rubber stopper on the thing. I use the body panel epoxy. I ream the rubber out a little bit and then I go to work to set the preload after the thing dries on the bolt head. Another trick is to put a little weld on the bottom of the bolt to keep the nut from loosening up on ya and falling off inside the traction bar while driving around. It can be real pain in the ass if the thing loosens up completely and bends the bolt on ya. Trim the bolt to size. Some guys tend to pass the stopper bolt completely thru the traction bar so they can double nut it at the top and bottom which is also fine and it works because that is how I do it... I used case hardened bolts my buddy swipes at a heavy equip place he works at. Tempered hardened metal bolts tend not to bend at all.
Couple extra spring clamps on the forward side of the spring helps.
That's called axle wrap and it sucks. It Robs tons of torque and power
I made the "Cal-Tracks" for our S10, cost about $60. Two pairs of weld in heim joint bungs (2 left hand and 2 right hand), 2 left and 2 right hand heims, DOM tubing and some 1/4 plate to make the brackets out of.
God does that truck sound damn good with the new exhaust and headers
Was like, I wonder when Snider is going to make another vid and bam 💥. Good shit
lol I try to upload every Monday and Thursday
For my Avalanche I got the trailblazer Torque converter.
Part #24228709
It's about 2400 rpm, and about $240 brand new
Yeah, I've got that sitting in my Amazon cart. What rear gears do you have though?
SniderTron 3000 I have 4.10s. Tires are 285 70 17 though.
I forget is your rear end stock?
Stock axles, but it has a new LSD and 4.10's
Your leaf springs are so nice compared to mine, imagine the wheel hop with 33 in mudders my truck lost 10 pounds of rust last time I sent it. Keep the videos coming, I don't miss a show
I feel it, man. My tail light got busted out my last time lol
I have 37's on my F350.. i have no wheel hop
raptor660 it’s a 3500 lol got way more torque/weight and way stiffer springs and everything
Nothin but red neck weight reduction 😂😂
Old school . we used them regular back in the day, Z-28 camaro, Chevelle SS 396, 65 Mustang 289, along with a nice pair of wrinkle wall slicks.
I still use them on my big block 56 Chevy !
Hookup will happen. You need to get longer ones so U-bolt mounts behind and in front of axle. As your axle raps and the rubber snubber hits the front of the sprint, it transfers weight to the rear U-bolt/rear of bar and uses that inertia to slam the rear axle/tire into the ground, which is go motion. In my mopars it has turned an open diff to a posi. I've got 300+ hp, you've got more. Your overpowering your tires.
I’m pretty sure I seen that the company that makes the exhaust system you got makes traction bars for those trucks and they look pretty decent
Yeah, Speed Engineering just released some traction bars and I'm super moist for them lol
Good video. I like the music. Nice to see you keep your tools well oiled.
Damn good burnout!. My 92 Sierra is a one wheel peeler. Kinda lame, but I plan on putting in an Eaton Truetrac locker into my diff. to fix the one wheel peel problem.
Can't go wrong with that Truetrac. Everyone that has them seems to be happy
Put a trailblazer 4.2 torque converter, stalls up too 2500-2800. you can find them all day at the junk yards, i just picked one up for 20 bucks lol
Shit, that's not a bad deal at all. I'll give you $25 for it lol
Would be a great video to make on budget torque converter! just order my traction bars from speed engineering as well.
Yeah, like the last major piece to the puzzle is a looser converter. And, I'm definitely gonna be getting those SpeedEng bars at some point. I really like the way they have the snubber that contacts the eye instead of putting a bunch of pressure on the leaf like CalTracs
Plus you dont have to remove the whole leaf springs just to install them, make everything much easier.
I own a 1975 Pontiac Firebird Formula 400. It came with traction bars. So I removed them because the paint was coming off and sanded the dead paint. Repainted it yellow. A lot of car guys where sucked in to my car for those Shiney traction bars.
Please do a vid of 03+ front bumper swap!
Sweet truck btw 🤙
If I could find a good deal on one I'd consider it
My god that music :(
Sick burnout man!! That truck is so awesome!
When your socket gets stuck just pull the socket off your wrench and throw it on the ground...the nut will fly right out every time
I have a socket and nut tip most people might laugh at this but I am as serious as it gets about saving time doing simple shit can turn a nightmare especially with NYLOCK nuts because sometimes and not all the time the plastic tends to bind the nut inside a socket. A little cooking oil like veggie oil or olive oil works better than any lubricant you can buy cept trans fluid does the trick but not everyone has trans fluid in a spray bottle like I do so cooking spray is the next best thing. For reasons unknown to me in the scientific world WD and CRC just don't work at keeping a NYLOCK from binding inside a socket.
Just make sure you see where it goes......those little suckers like to hide..............
Turbo maybe? And collab with bigkleib would be awesome
Turbo or LSA is the plan down the road for it. And, it would be cool to collab with him, but I think he's in like PA or Maryland
All that rust makes me want to cry
4 hours on the nut? Wow 😮... I’ve got them stuck before usually just heat the socket up and cold water dunk it and it’ll come out. Does that truck have the 4L60E Transmission? If so how many miles can you expect it to live. Mine has 163.000 shifts smooth but it’s chirping a little.
The nut only took like a minute or so to get out, it was just being difficult. But, yeah it has a 4l60e. When I bought the truck the guy said it was freshly rebuilt and 2 days later I lost 3rd and 4th gear, so I had a local guy rebuild it last year and it's been doing phenomenal since then. And, I drive it the same way off camera that I do on. I have no idea how long it'll last.
People have said the Corvette Servo that another dude just asked me about has helped get rid of the slipping and chirping
Ok cool. I was just curious about that chirp. Im not having any issues other than hearing that chirp occasionally. Mine is 4 wheel drive if that makes any difference?
Sorry just stumbled across this video . Having same trouble with my 1982 dodge D150 short bed pickup. It has lightly modified 318 with racing 727 and 8-1/2 rear with 3:55 and posi . I believe it use to be a 6 cylinder truck because it has 4 thin leaf springs instead of 6 thick leafs . Im planning on swapping to heavy duty rear springs and some Lakewood traction bars and should take car of the problem? What kind of mufflers you running on that pickup that did the burnout?
Depends on what your goal is with the truck, but just doing tracrion bars and upgrading the shocks could be the way to go. And it has a Speed Engineering X Pipe
It has new coil over performance rear shocks . On your pewter colored chevy truck what brand of muffler are you running? Im just running duals no x pipe or H pipe .
Hate to tell you but there's only supposed to be an 1 /8"at the snubber at the most! Anything more than that is wasted motion is hard on everything. You can shim the snubber up closer on that style of traction bar. I trimmed the top half inch of my snubber off and adjusted up properly and my 70 Chevelle would hit second gear so hard that it would chirp the tires and jump sideways!! Lol never got tired of that feeling 🙃!!! Good luck with all of your projects and keep up the good work 👏
So what your sayin is slapper bars are more for removing wheel hop and doin clean burnout not really for traction but cal trac are more for the track or high hp to keep traction with all the power but are better because they can be used for on and off the track right?
Thats a broad generalization, but that's kind of how I feel about them. Cal Tracs plant the tire better than just slapper bars. But I know plenty of people pulling great 60 foots with slapper bars
Just my 2 cents but clamping the bottom "overload" leaf is probably going 2 have a negative impact on your ride quality. "Stiffer" I'm guessing your not putting a lot of weight in the bed so you could remove the overload spring to retain factory ride with the traction bars. Also if I remember correctly the front snubber is threaded and can be adjusted closer to the spring eye to fine tune the bars.
Yeah, it did stiffen up the rear a touch, but not too bad. It almost improved it a little. I do actually use this as a truck lol I just hauled a couple yards of mulch in the bed last week. And, I'm definitely going to get something else down the road, probably the new Speed Engineering traction bars.
And yeah I moved the snubber as far ahead so the bars could be moved as close as possible to the axle.
Less or no wheel hope helps with less broken parts and with traction as well.
If going to buy a converter get a 3600+ i messed around with 3000-3200 yank-fti-circle D. had way much money wrapped up in a the wrong converter. Order a yank ss 3800 man was a whole different animal.
Ran 8.1s 216/220 cam, 410s tru-trac, 28" drag radial. Locks up at 40 mph so its good on a daily. I drove my truck everywhere.
Crazy that 350 doesn’t wheel hop but my 94 Chevy has a killer launch with killer wheel hop
Yes they work I’ll watch anyways I guess
Man burn out was sick and Pop hamming the trike is priceless!!!
After finishing the latest episode of Finnegan's Garage, I felt the need for another Snidertron3000 video. Kinda bummed I didn't see one. Refreshed my feed and there you were! My lucky day! Great videos, bud. Keep at it.
Hahaha, I was just watching him do the wiring on the Firebird while this video uploaded. Small world lol
SniderTron 3000 Pretty cool video. I never knew wiring was that involved. Maybe one day, you'll be 1/2 of Roadkill 2.0. Haha
lol it would be so nice to be doing this with someone else worrying about filming and editing
SniderTron 3000 Keep at it and you never know what'll happen. You have great content. Keep doing what you're doing and you'll get the recognition you deserve.
I love that old school rx7 in the back
You ended up pinning the last smaller spring against the top ones. Doing that alone stiffens up the springs so much it sometimes stops the springs from twisting but the truck will be extremly stiff. I'm pretty sure the slapper would help also but that did aid you.
Yeah, I knew it would clamp that spring, but that's more of a minor inconvenience than anything else. The truck still rides totally fine. All it really did was make the rear end drop another half inch
They do work. The only problem I see is speed bumps and pot holes. I'm a believer they will make you hook though.
I'm always amazed that NO ONE turns a standard ratchet anymore.
What do you mean?
@@SniderTron3000 Nothing bad on you personally. I watch a lot of car vids and it just occurred to me I never see people use standard ratchets anymore. Everything is powered.
@@jamessouthworth1699 I think for videos, it just takes so long that it either gets edited out or they just use an impact or something. Cause I definitely still use my ratchets a lot. I just had to buy a new 3/8 drive a few weeks ago
Good shit i always did wonder about that older style bar
Why not use your lift to install the bar?
9.1M views because the suspension distresses and the leaf springs spread
Like the videos, I'm working on my 06 avalanche getting ready for cam swap any suggestions on a decent price cam
A lot of people like Brian Tooley cams or Texas Speed
I'd love something like these for my truck, but they hang down so low though. I'm already at a 12 inch drop in the rear I can't afford to lose more clearance ugh
Wow, I'm shocked you have a 12 inch drop and don't have a 4 link. Props
SniderTron 3000
Yeah I went the budget route lol, used drop leafs, blocks, and flip kit of course.
Getting some for my project for sure...
I own a 95' Ford bronco, that has a Cobra-Jet 650hp engine with a 100hp supercharger, added with an accelerator activated NOS. I roast tires, even in 4 wheel drive. I can't seem to stop them from spinning, no matter what I do. I want to know how you get to do your take-offs w/o tire spins. Is it a 'clutch-brake', or 'Detroit lockers'? I need help.
I LOVE my take-offs but HATE destroying my tires. Any suggestions and/help are really needed. At $500 a tire, it's too expensive. Or would 'caltracs' do the trick?
Well what works for me is not having much horsepower haha
Its not 'all' about the hp, its more about how you can put it to asphalt.
@@markbutterfield5559 Bud....It doesn't matter what you do with approx. 850hp, you'll spin. Keep your foot out of it or buy slicks for all 4 corners.
@@blade-fpv9411 Thank you much, I'll try your advice.
Hey what size test pipes did you run on your headers at first I just bought the same headers
3"x 18". AutoZone has them for like $5 a piece or something
SniderTron 3000 thanks man trying to build my truck just like yours
Hopefully yours is better than mine lol
Ay sick ass video bro keep it up.
I'm a bit late.. but is there like a website where u find these trucks like that or it's a local dealership?
I'm just constantly on craigslist and facebook looking to see whats for sale or trade. There are really good deals out there if you're willing to not have a perfect vehicle. The gold truck has 240,000 miles and some rust. The black truck didn't run at all when I got it.
Hey man, I saw that you ordered the speed engineering exhaust. Have you seen their new traction bars? They look pretty legit and maybe those might be better. Either way like you said you got these for free so shit it’s worth. Cool vid 👍🏼
Yeah, those SpeedEng Traction Bars made me so moist. I'm definitely gonna get some eventually
Will theses work with a flit kit. On a 95 f150?
Wonder how this would compare to the Roadmaster Active Suspension.
Well, it's like $350 cheaper lol
Taylor Ray truck edition
God dammit, is this gonna become a thing? lol
SniderTron 3000 you sure look and act like him.
Maybe he looks like me, who's older? haha it doesn't actually bother me, he seems like a cool dude.
SniderTron 3000 keep the good stuff, I once owned an '06 RCSB in same color as yours, sold it and got a '16 5.0 ' stang
i bought a set of traction bars for my silverado do you have to jack it up to instal them?
No, it's best to have them installed at ride height so nothing binds. I just put the rear end on stands so I could get to things easier
Did those trac bars improve or worsen ride quality?
The ride quality is pretty much the same honestly. The only noticeable effect was it lowered the rear about half an inch
Also i tow will these affect it in any way? I honestly just want them for the looks
I couldn't tell you for sure, but I don't see why they would. Especially if you just want them for the looks, you wouldn't have to get them as tight
@@SniderTron3000 from those 2 areas on your bars which one should i leave not to tight the rear part on axle or the front part near the rubber?
Just got a set for my project👍
What drop you got bro?
4/6 drop
1320 comments on your video asking about your truck. Definitely life goals right there!
@@johngraves9201 it's a fake channel
How's the transmission holding with the Cam upgrade still?
The transmission honestly hasn't missed a beat. The old man that rebuilt it did some sort of wizardry to it because I thought he did just a stock rebuild
Awesome to hear man! I'm sure the LSD you put in doesn't hurt it either. Can't wait too see the supercharger on it soon!
Me neither. I'm still trying to put a tune together before I get that on
Paint the hood on the gold truck and redo the headliner
That’s the difference between those traction bars and ones that for from axle to frame?
What muffler is that?
Would these fit 2013?
How did you lower the truck?
Really good video . We got a 91 GMC Sierra extended cab stepside with a 6/8 drop and it wheel hops so fucking bad. Time to add some traction bars
If you really care about it, I would look into the Speed Engineering traction bars. They said that even though they're for the 99+ trucks, they should still fit the 88-98 just fine, and they look like a fantastic design
have you ever thought about installing a corvette servo on your truck ?
I've looked into it a little and the only thing I can find about it is that it makes the 1-2 shifts quicker. But, I have some tuning software and I got it so that shifts super quick in tow/haul mode. So, I'm just not sure if it's worth it. I mean, obviously its going to be an upgrade regardless, I just haven't found the answers to the questions I'm looking for before doing it.
yeah I get you . I have just installed one in 01 silverado it make a little difference but only on 2 and 4 gears it still need a good tune and some headers
The harbou freight impact
just an fyi all you needed to do was put a square ubolt on that overload leaf you put the c clamp on and clamp it to the rest of the leaf pack would have had the exact same effect
Thank you for messing with the GMs! It’s hard to find build as you go videos with the gms. Sick of looking at mopar. Fuck ya bud, I literally went to the beginning this morning.
Shout out from Canada my dude!
Is wheel hop like just a single cab thing cos the whole light weight?
Nah, I've seen extended cabs do it too.
@@SniderTron3000 crazy. Mine spins up real quick and never hopped once.
What gear and tires do you have? Usually if you can get enough wheel speed you can power through the hop. Mine only did it when I was at a lower wheel speed with the 275's
@@SniderTron3000 373s and 275/55/20s
How is the transmission holding up?
No complaints so far. It's only a year old and so far I'm really getting a false sense of security from how reliable it has been lol
Would you recommend this for sliding or drifting ?
It... I don't know. I could see why it would work, and why it wouldn't be that effective. But, I think the best bet would be the ladder style traction bars if you were getting serious about it.
SniderTron 3000 thanks for the reply but like in a budget build for say. You should make a video on that testing to see if they are good for drifting or at least do some donuts! For scientific reasons to see if they help.
I would think that if you kept them preloaded just a touch then they would work for drifting. And, man, there's like nowhere good near me to try to risk ripping a few donies. The closest parking lots are either a local church or the high school and both have cameras lol
Are those 28 inches or 30 inches?
Nice job man!
When a nut get stuck in the socket. Lay the socket on the concrete and smack it with a hammer.
Plus traction bars are fucking cool looking too on a pickup
I have been watching your videos a while man and they are bad ass, you should check out my 383 c1500! You might wanna set up your 88 similar to my truck! It rips for an extended cab and a little 383
Would you bother with these on a 4wd or no? Love your vids. Have a 99 stepside myself.
I personally wouldn't. Offroad people seem to prefer the ladder bar setup, or the really long traction bar that mounts on the axle and the frame.
@@SniderTron3000 Well, I put em on. My truck is a pavement pounder and my daily, but after installing block in the rear, it revealed how worn out my rear leafs are. The driveshaft sliding in and out of the tailshaft makes a horrendous clunk when accelerating and coming to a stop. These cured the acceleration part. No money in the ol budget for a real set of traction bars or new leaves, so these will have to do for now. Appreciate you doing these, helped me out in a pinch.
@@theANGRIERone just saw this comment i have a 4wd i want to put these same universal bars on but just for show. Will they mess with my towing i tow often
@@sergiocaballero7404 I wound up going with Pro Comp lateral bars. I lost one of the pinion snubbers almost immediately on the slapper bars. Probably my fault for not tightening it down. Not sure on towing, though. I don't tow anything with my truck. can't see how they would hurt really? Then again, I don't know much about towing stuff.
@@theANGRIERone those are expensive again 50 bucks for that mean stance look the traction bars give us is something im willing to pay unless it messes with my towing
I might need your help idk if we came message in private on this....
Where did you bought your diff at bro
Great video guy 👍
How does your truck ride ever since you lowered it?
It rides pretty normal actually
Are ladder bars any different than traction bars?
This is definitely worth the read and explains the differences between a bunch of different suspension setups
www.competitionengineering.com/content/understanding-basics-chassis-suspension-traction-equipment
Hair was on point today Bro. Sweet burnout. Still going with a 3200 stall? You and Pops need to do a bike video.
Haha, thanks, man. I want to go with the Circle D 3000, but I'm considering just tossing in a trailblazer converter just because they stall around 2500 and they're cheap. And, I've thought about doing some more bike videos
What kind of gas mileage does the gold truck get with cam and tune?
I average around 14 or so
Yoo snider how much did your diff cost you
I think it was like $260
How many miles is on the motor
I have no idea for sure, it's not original to the truck. Lets just assume 200k lol
So jelly by the way
Sick Rx7
What’s the name of the song 5:45?
Holy torqueload batman!
You're asking for trouble dude you don't need to stress that damn leaf spring suspension like that you'll see
Thanks for the video.
What’s the tire size u have?
These are 275/60r17
Thanks
Should have let dad do a burnout too!👍
No, all these positive comments are going straight to his head lol
Caltracs are the way but I get it, those were free. Wait til you catch one on a speed bump or pothole
The crossover for the exhaust catches way before these do lol
SniderTron 3000 That's a good thing, get a little warning, lol.
So basically if I have less than 300 horse my truck will still wheel hop ?
Old cars with at speed they looked cool at a street light 1st 2nd the whole car would lift up
Best part is.... didn't cost a cent! If it works but needs to be improved upon, improve it or upgrade! Turd head's gonna stink no matter where he goes!
Lol I think he just wants to be heard.
SniderTron 3000 yup! I smell him all the way over here!
Earthquake xp i think?? Harbor freight
Yeah, whatever the new smaller one is. I think it's the XP. It kicks ass, I was pleasantly surprised
What ive seen in your truck the issue you have is because you have removed 2 or 3 leafsprings so it is weak with that traction bar thing you are just stressing the shit out of your existing 2 leafs . you are gonna end up breaking a u bolt or a shacle . looks cool tho with those things
Stock leaf pack untouched.
Can this help with take off? From a dig
If the rest of your setup is right then yeah. Main things are your tire, leafs, shocks and getting these all setup right so they work well together. Mine is far from right, I just have it stopping wheel hop. If you're serious about it look up an Hot Rod article about Ron Rhodes, he has some great info that he learn on his Camaro.
SniderTron 3000 alright I’ll look him up thanks for the information I’m pushing about 524 to the wheels on a 03 6.0l Chevy Silverado with headers tune intake and built heads with a 4l80e so I get a lot of hop and it’s worrying me that I might mess something up
Great videos.
So these don’t help you hook up at all ?