its the little extra shit you do in these videos that add comedic effect such as the underlining the big box saying "not an inter-cooler" and "hoes/hose". They turn what would be a mundane video into something that was cool to watch good shit Josh
I've had a similar one on my stock 5.3 for about 6 months because my throttle kept sticking from all the oil settling in there. Thing works great. No more cleaning my throttle blade! Routed mine the same as well off the PCV to intake with no issues.
Getting ready to install a catch can on my 5.3 avalanche. Just trying to get it to run a little cleaner, last a little longer. Definitely curious to try it and see what it catches.
There is 2 pcv lines from each head, unhook them and Y them both to the IN side of the CC, and the OUT line to any where pre SC to be always on negative pressure. For the boost pipes, you need to install a recerc valve, and you will not blow any pipes.
I spent like an hour looking up different routings for catch can lines, and the general consensus was the way I have it now, but I do actually like this idea more. I don't have a way (currently) to hook it up pre-charger, but I can come up with a way to fix that. I'm not too proud to admit I was wrong lol
@@SniderTron3000 drill your intake tube or Fab a "cold" box and drill into that (better) and line the box with heat isolation metrial. You will drop your IAT's alot
take the pvc off with the blower, put a catch can in place of the pvc, and one on the other valve cover, then run 2 hoses off the 2 cans and put 2 breathers on, then when the blower pressurizes the crank case with blow by the oil blows into the cans and not all over the motor
I redid it the other day. I now have both valve covers T'd together, then that goes into one side of the catch can, and on the other side I have a breather filter to atmosphere. It's doing the same thing as you said, but I think the routing is a littler neater.
I will say, once you go Boost, it’s not a good idea to try and run a PCV. Here’s why, at Boost there’s no vacuum to evacuate the crankcase pressures, at the point where you have Boost there’s literally no where for crankcase pressure to vent; as a result you end up creating oil leaks, oil consumption. It’s recommended to switch to an open element on each valvecover, you can t-together hoses from each cover to an open element catch can. We went through this learning process on the 88mm Turbo 5.3 in the Typhoon. 👍😎
Yeah, I'm going to reroute everything. For now I'm just going to do some regular driving and try to stay out of boost so it can *hopefully* work. And then once I get the I/C and BOV on and I've got a little more confidence in the setup, I'll reroute it and get into boost. I currently have the drivers side vented. I'm thinking of T'ing hose from each valve cover together and going into the catch can, and then have a filter/breather on the "out" port of it, so they will basically both be vented to atmosphere, but still catching any oil. And then, plug the intake port. That sounds kinda of like what you did. How did that work out for you?
SniderTron 3000 Richard owns the Typhoon, he ran large ?🤔 5/8” hoses from each valve cover to a catch can with an open element mounted to the firewall, nice clean look. This setup stopped all oil control issues; works perfectly. His first test at the track went 6.91 @102 mph 1/8 mile on 10# Boost 👍😉
Found out today the 2000 Durango has the thermostat/coolant fill in the upper radiator hose. You can add the. Durango fill to the upper hose and delete the factory coolant reservoir. 👍
SniderTron 3000 I’m definitely going with it when I install the Turbo. Plus these LS engines have to fill the block first with coolant due to the low mount thermostat. It’s a Win Win! I can’t wait to see how much power you get with the supercharger! 😎
I'll say it if it wasn't said If it doesnt have baffles which it doesnt.. lol you can use a straw inside with holes and also use those steel pads that are just used for scrubbing pots and pans to increase the catch of oil. Just a food for thought i think its called a brillo pad correct me if I'm wrong.
When I supercharged my 1st Gen. Lightning I started at 6psi and would blow the dipstick out of the block. I put 2 large k&n style valve cover breathers one on each side and that cured it. I was making 11psi before I sold it and had no problems.
I've read through some of the comments already, and most have kind of answered, but basically, the one coming out of the block and going into the intake is the "dirty side" of the PCV. The one you described seeing at the car show is the "clean" side of the PCV. Generally, in a boosted application, you want to try and contain both, if you can (and should). If you are N/A, then the dirty side is sufficient enough. I saw a comment in here as well talking about "if you run boosted, then you'll need less of the PCV and you'll need to vent it or use an open element catch can", and that's true if you were going to go full send racetruck. In my experience, from what I've asked about from others, and what I've seen from others, I think that using an open element catch can is only necessary if you're no longer planning to do much street driving. Not to say you can't run it on the street like that, but it seems a bit unnecessary.
The thing that I thought was odd about the car I saw at the show is that it wasn't vented anywhere. He might as well have had a hose going from one valve cover to another. They both went into a sealed catch can. And, I have since redone my setup to half mimic that except I have both valve cover t'd into one line going in one side of the catch can and the outlet side of it is vented to atmosphere. And, it has helped immensely.
Well it was not the shops fault it is a bent rod or worn out bearing. valve train is fine just bad luck but now it gives me an excuse to put in some proformance rods and bearings👍👍👍
Great vid,first off. 2nd,you put oil in it like a diesel? My buddy has an older Ford that ya gotta include the oil can on the oil change and top it up......
What equipment do you use to film with and editing software? Last thing, anytime you work on something under the hood, its like murphys law, you will drop a bolt an not hear it hit the ground, and you will lose/misplace a 10mm.
I have an 06 gmc yukon with the same issue i already change the pcv valve cover & other part & still the same..do i need to install a catch can..when im going in the street and i accelerate it black smoke comes out is this the issue..any body with the same problem
SniderTron 3000 10/4 just wondering because I have the same truck but 4.8 she's got 175k on her and I've been thinking of doing the same thing just not sure if it can handle it
I'm just gonna keep 1 eye peeled, and hunt for a good deal like you did then .......lsa blowers can be found for cheap but I think your centrifugal blower would be more efficient and cheaper to get right that trying to piece together an Lsa setup on my fitech 70050.......if the price is right! !!!!!!!
Hopefully you get all this shit figured out....been wanting to boost one of my lsx swapped cars for a while but after seeing some of these horror stories been thinking keeping it simple. ...hope it works out bud!
Meh, it's all trial and error. I've never done any of this shit before, so I'm just trying to see what other people have done and see if it works for me. I mean, the worst thing that happens is I toast the motor. That would suck, but in the big picture, it's not too big a deal really. Everything is a chance to learn something new.
you'll probably run into issues running boost into your catch can instead of vaccume, you'd be better of running it into your intake system pre supercharger
@@SniderTron3000 It's ok Tylor Ray truck edition, you are 1 boost away from blowing that RMS, remove the plastic cover, you will find very small lines that drain in pre TB area, unhook them and connect them to pre SC,
A 20 dollar harbor freight air dryer will work better then that would. You can get a good baffled setup for 90 bucks so why waste money on this crap. But if going low budget use a larger air dryer they work well at least.
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Good tunes, good commentary, good humour.. noice 👌🏻
its the little extra shit you do in these videos that add comedic effect such as the underlining the big box saying "not an inter-cooler" and "hoes/hose". They turn what would be a mundane video into something that was cool to watch good shit Josh
I'm glad other people enjoy these videos. I usually just do stuff that makes me laugh and hope others do too lol
That hose looks like something from a pet store.
i see you did not plug off the top port on the throttle body, pumping boost in to the block.
The hose has a bolt in the end of it. Well, I don't remember if it did at this point, but I believe it did.
5:36 😅😅😅😅😅 I just got my 706 heads back today and its suppose to rain for days now 😒
Your fucking cut scene music is the best shit on youtube. Easily worth the subscription. Let alone RCSB goodness.
You can put a small plate diagonal with some holes in it and there's your baffle
Looks like the speed engineering catch can I paid 100 for💀
I've had a similar one on my stock 5.3 for about 6 months because my throttle kept sticking from all the oil settling in there. Thing works great. No more cleaning my throttle blade! Routed mine the same as well off the PCV to intake with no issues.
I heard packing those things with some steel wool helps and makes it almost as it was baffled
Getting ready to install a catch can on my 5.3 avalanche. Just trying to get it to run a little cleaner, last a little longer. Definitely curious to try it and see what it catches.
There is 2 pcv lines from each head, unhook them and Y them both to the IN side of the CC, and the OUT line to any where pre SC to be always on negative pressure.
For the boost pipes, you need to install a recerc valve, and you will not blow any pipes.
I spent like an hour looking up different routings for catch can lines, and the general consensus was the way I have it now, but I do actually like this idea more. I don't have a way (currently) to hook it up pre-charger, but I can come up with a way to fix that.
I'm not too proud to admit I was wrong lol
@@SniderTron3000 drill your intake tube or Fab a "cold" box and drill into that (better) and line the box with heat isolation metrial. You will drop your IAT's alot
Keep up the vids love them
take the pvc off with the blower, put a catch can in place of the pvc, and one on the other valve cover, then run 2 hoses off the 2 cans and put 2 breathers on, then when the blower pressurizes the crank case with blow by the oil blows into the cans and not all over the motor
I redid it the other day. I now have both valve covers T'd together, then that goes into one side of the catch can, and on the other side I have a breather filter to atmosphere. It's doing the same thing as you said, but I think the routing is a littler neater.
Nice Truck Bro😎
Love this truck and watching it progress
I will say, once you go Boost, it’s not a good idea to try and run a PCV. Here’s why, at Boost there’s no vacuum to evacuate the crankcase pressures, at the point where you have Boost there’s literally no where for crankcase pressure to vent; as a result you end up creating oil leaks, oil consumption.
It’s recommended to switch to an open element on each valvecover, you can t-together hoses from each cover to an open element catch can. We went through this learning process on the 88mm Turbo 5.3 in the Typhoon. 👍😎
Yeah, I'm going to reroute everything. For now I'm just going to do some regular driving and try to stay out of boost so it can *hopefully* work. And then once I get the I/C and BOV on and I've got a little more confidence in the setup, I'll reroute it and get into boost. I currently have the drivers side vented.
I'm thinking of T'ing hose from each valve cover together and going into the catch can, and then have a filter/breather on the "out" port of it, so they will basically both be vented to atmosphere, but still catching any oil. And then, plug the intake port. That sounds kinda of like what you did. How did that work out for you?
SniderTron 3000 Richard owns the Typhoon, he ran large ?🤔 5/8” hoses from each valve cover to a catch can with an open element mounted to the firewall, nice clean look. This setup stopped all oil control issues; works perfectly. His first test at the track went 6.91 @102 mph 1/8 mile on 10# Boost 👍😉
Found out today the 2000 Durango has the thermostat/coolant fill in the upper radiator hose. You can add the. Durango fill to the upper hose and delete the factory coolant reservoir. 👍
Hmm, that's not too bad an idea. I'll definitely make a mental note of that
SniderTron 3000 I’m definitely going with it when I install the Turbo. Plus these LS engines have to fill the block first with coolant due to the low mount thermostat. It’s a Win Win! I can’t wait to see how much power you get with the supercharger! 😎
True, but most of my stuff is broke and/or leaky. So, its handy to be able to just visually check the coolant to see if its still there haha
RedXray The Durango fill neck has a barb you run to a smaller catch can/over flow. It’s much easier to mount a 1Qt container.
I'll say it if it wasn't said If it doesnt have baffles which it doesnt.. lol you can use a straw inside with holes and also use those steel pads that are just used for scrubbing pots and pans to increase the catch of oil. Just a food for thought i think its called a brillo pad correct me if I'm wrong.
I had this can on my camaro and went to Home Depot bought heavy steel wool filled have the can it helps hold moisture to the bottom
I might do that. But, I'm going to have to reroute everything once I get back into making boost.
Stuff some stainless scrub pads in the can to help the fumes stick inside to catch the oil. Works great on those no baffled cans.
Thanks man great idea 👌
When I supercharged my 1st Gen. Lightning I started at 6psi and would blow the dipstick out of the block. I put 2 large k&n style valve cover breathers one on each side and that cured it. I was making 11psi before I sold it and had no problems.
I'm thinking about using my old cold air intake as a valve cover vent
I've read through some of the comments already, and most have kind of answered, but basically, the one coming out of the block and going into the intake is the "dirty side" of the PCV. The one you described seeing at the car show is the "clean" side of the PCV. Generally, in a boosted application, you want to try and contain both, if you can (and should). If you are N/A, then the dirty side is sufficient enough.
I saw a comment in here as well talking about "if you run boosted, then you'll need less of the PCV and you'll need to vent it or use an open element catch can", and that's true if you were going to go full send racetruck. In my experience, from what I've asked about from others, and what I've seen from others, I think that using an open element catch can is only necessary if you're no longer planning to do much street driving. Not to say you can't run it on the street like that, but it seems a bit unnecessary.
The thing that I thought was odd about the car I saw at the show is that it wasn't vented anywhere. He might as well have had a hose going from one valve cover to another. They both went into a sealed catch can. And, I have since redone my setup to half mimic that except I have both valve cover t'd into one line going in one side of the catch can and the outlet side of it is vented to atmosphere. And, it has helped immensely.
You can baffle it by using some steelwool inside the can.
Love watching your truck videos 😎making that GMC Bad 😈🤙🏽
Just wanted to say your videos are giving me a ton of ideas and my wife absolutely hates you. Keep it up bud! Lmao
Also would you be willing to sell your old cold air intake?
I'm too lazy to ship it out lol
Yea I made that comment before I got to the portion of the video where you covered that lmao
Nothing worse than losing the 10mm from the set 😪
Honestly
What is the weight on the gold truck. Man i am SORRY I did not know I sent that many back to back. I had a problem sending. I'm so SORRY.
You need to swap those hoses ASAP once the intake pulls vacuum they will completely flatten out and restrict flow
Maybe that's what I want to happen!
Well it was not the shops fault it is a bent rod or worn out bearing. valve train is fine just bad luck but now it gives me an excuse to put in some proformance rods and bearings👍👍👍
What is the weight on the gold truck.
Great vid,first off. 2nd,you put oil in it like a diesel? My buddy has an older Ford that ya gotta include the oil can on the oil change and top it up......
Fackn hell,phone auto put a capital f on ford. Dont deserve it. Fuckin ford.....lmfao
I'm in love with your truck 😍😍😍
It's a turd, man lol
Steel wool in the can will provide a baffle and more surface area
What equipment do you use to film with and editing software? Last thing, anytime you work on something under the hood, its like murphys law, you will drop a bolt an not hear it hit the ground, and you will lose/misplace a 10mm.
I use the cheapest stuff I can lol used Canon G7X, GoPro Hero5 and Windows Movie Maker
Dude your channel is gonna blow up i know it! Keep it up i love your truck vids
What would you recommend as a power adder on a 03 Chevy 2500 6.0 v8
Turbo FTW
SniderTron 3000 where is a reputable place
Nice! Will research more. My truck has same cam as yours and LTs. Just no boost
Should I do a axle flip kit or do a whole 2/4 drop
Flip kit. 4/6 drop 4lyfe
Go 4/6 I have a 2/4 on my truck and it's not low enough I will be buying 2" rear leafs and 2" front drop coils to turn mine into a 4/6.
4/6 is the absolute smallest drop I would do on any vehicle then again I’m all about that lowlife and my daily is on a 10/12
I have an 06 gmc yukon with the same issue i already change the pcv valve cover & other part & still the same..do i need to install a catch can..when im going in the street and i accelerate it black smoke comes out is this the issue..any body with the same problem
Black smoke from the exhaust is usually fuel. Oil is blue, coolant/water is white
@@SniderTron3000 ok what should i check
@@SniderTron3000 do you think i should install a catch can?
@@franciscohuerta1780 there's no downside to installing one
@@SniderTron3000 i checked the throttle body & it has a little puddle of oil
What hose size is needed?
I used 3/8
@@SniderTron3000 sweet thanks brotha
Bro I love the intro
I just run open pvc lines with valve cover filters on end of hoses that point to ground runs great 12-14psi
Low buck for the win 👍
I don't know how many 10 mm sockets I have lost .. lol good video too
What about the passenger side
It's currently vented to atmosphere
is your check engine light on all the time?
Only when I fucked something up. So, yeah, usually haha
@@SniderTron3000 I'm just scared to do straight pipe and headers cause its gotta be hard to keep those o2 sensors
Putting more work in one video than other channels. That just end up talking about what they wanna do. Good job man
what kind of heads do you have
Stock 862's
If we buy a cold air intake off ebay they'll send us one that wasn't on Goldie hawn. We want YOUR intake bro 😏 lol
Hahaha thats a good point!
Y'all will lose HP if you use one of my take offs. Its a Goldie Hawn Tax lol
Yeah but its off the coolest truck on TH-cam!!!!
You losing the your 10mm reminded me I lost my 10mm in my rcsb's wheel hub while replacing the front suspension today lol thanks for the reminder
1:17 that montage is actually really cool. It must of taken a hour to edit it.. but I think it was worth it... Do that more often please!
How many miles on her
Somewhere between a shit load and all of them
SniderTron 3000
10/4 just wondering because I have the same truck but 4.8 she's got 175k on her and I've been thinking of doing the same thing just not sure if it can handle it
Where you got your hd good ???
Only the finest of online automobile parts sourcings.... Craigslist lol
SniderTron 3000 😂😂
Will an oil catch can help a motor that's burning oil? Anyone please help ?
No
Hyde from that’s 70s show
What the hell, man lol I have no joke been hearing that since like 5th grade.
SniderTron 3000 yeah man I knew you reminded me of someone 😂
I don't see it, but I'll take it as a compliment lol Hyde was dope. Pun intended
You baffled me
👌
I'm just gonna keep 1 eye peeled, and hunt for a good deal like you did then .......lsa blowers can be found for cheap but I think your centrifugal blower would be more efficient and cheaper to get right that trying to piece together an
Lsa setup on my fitech 70050.......if the price is right! !!!!!!!
Hopefully you get all this shit figured out....been wanting to boost one of my lsx swapped cars for a while but after seeing some of these horror stories been thinking keeping it simple. ...hope it works out bud!
Meh, it's all trial and error. I've never done any of this shit before, so I'm just trying to see what other people have done and see if it works for me. I mean, the worst thing that happens is I toast the motor. That would suck, but in the big picture, it's not too big a deal really. Everything is a chance to learn something new.
Nooooooo!!!!! A 10mm down!!! You crack me up
you'll probably run into issues running boost into your catch can instead of vaccume, you'd be better of running it into your intake system pre supercharger
What I said
This whole thing is trail and error lol
@@SniderTron3000
It's ok Tylor Ray truck edition, you are 1 boost away from blowing that RMS, remove the plastic cover, you will find very small lines that drain in pre TB area, unhook them and connect them to pre SC,
A 20 dollar harbor freight air dryer will work better then that would. You can get a good baffled setup for 90 bucks so why waste money on this crap. But if going low budget use a larger air dryer they work well at least.
1100gsxr🤙🤙🤙
Your Pvc hose...ehhh …. 6:37 lol
lol flat hose on a vacuum , lol
That hose has to go. Lol
I knooooooooooooooooow lol
Have you thought of trying meth
Nah, I'm a weed and coke guy
Suit yourself
Comment
6.0 swap do it
Nah, thems too many money's round here
Notification squad, stand up!
Talk to much??
Omg shut up, Pam
first