If you shorten the rubber stops or change them out for smaller ones, you can do all your adjusting by moving the rubber stop. The stops thread in and you put a lock nut on to hold them at the gap you set. You can back them way out when you’re not at the race track so the car has a better ride on the street.
I think you should be happy that you have no wheel hop. I think you are trying to emulate the way Mopar Super Stock springs worked. They worked great for many years by driving the tires into the pavement on launch- until you reached a high enough power level that they actually bounced the rear of the car to the point that the tires unloaded before the car even moved. I think in a lot of cases longer and stiffer shocks might have helped to keep them from topping out but gotta use what you can find available. I will always believe that people who think a car should "squat" on launch are wrong. There have been many "hot setups" over the years. Ladder bars, Southside Machine bars, adjustable upper control arms, solid spring eye bushings, polyurethane bushings, three link, four link and the most current that I know of, Calvert bars with a single leaf spring preferably made of fiberglass or a polymer(?) and slider mounts. I'm not knocking any of them. I'm sure that racers have had success with each type. The biggest farce that I remember was in the 1990s when pinion angle became the biggest concern. I am not saying that correct pinion angle isn't important one bit, but the incorrect way that so many that I knew were measuring and adjusting were jazzing things up fer sure. Most suspension modifications will detract from ride quality and make annoying noises, though. I think for a street with car with realistic street car power levels slapper bars do a good job of preventing wheelhop which can be a problem on a lot of cars such as Mustangs, Novas, and others and they don't badly affect the ride quality, noise, or mannerism the way most other types do. The slappers that bolt on in place of the shock mount plates and mount to the U-bolts are much better than the spring clamp type like you have, though. Those sometimes make suspension noisey, loosen up, and shift around. I would expect that especially likely to happen with wooden spacers. Good luck. I dig the 'Stang. Too bad someone put the sunroof in it, though.
th-cam.com/users/shortsvWCU9kuKZRs?feature=share I actually dont mind the sunroof all that much lol ive grown used to it 😅 Here is a back to back of the car launching with the new setup (i ended up taking the wood spacer off the passenger side and keeped the drivers side on) It now spins both tires about 90% of the time on any road ive had it down 👍
@@newguysgarage6802 I got ya. I had Mopars with open rear ends and did pretty much the same as you're doing by tightening up the left front torsion bar to jack weight onto the right rear wheel.
Wow.. is that a 302 ? What's the exhaust /diameter? Sounds perfect but almost like a big block must have three inch at some point? Anyway I got truck version Lakewoods for my conversion van project.. seemed like a good idea.. long leaves, longest Ford axle (8.8 anyway) .. still building the vehicle but I've heard they make noise or are clunky? I saw hellwig makes something that bolts to the front top of the leaf pack to stiffen it up.. I even thought of making caltracs style by mixing and matching some parts.. already welded a truss to the axle so why not weld more stuff.. but yeah i know despite being made for a ford truck the shims they came with I dont think were quite enough. But because it's a truck the bars are long enough for the nub to hit perfectly under the leaf eyelet .. so are they still worth it? Or do people just do it for period correctness
We ripped the engine out and did a full teardown of it last fall and it is a .040 over 302 (so a 308) lol It has dual 3in summit glasspacks that just dump right off the headers! I like the slapper bars, vintage and they absolutely do work. There not the highest tech way of doing it but sometimes simpler is better. They only make noise if they are loose (have big gaps between the snubber and the eye of the leaf spring. The closer the two are the quieter it is, my setup I can't hear them at all 😁
@@newguysgarage6802 Nice! yeah it sounds really good.. I'm sure it probably hurts the low end a little but in a small Mustang probably not a big deal. Yeah I'm doing 2.5s through to hi flo cats ( trying to keep some protection on an emissions engine as I think I might be asthmatic / copd ) and X-Pipe but then I have two Thrush Weldeds that are 3 inch. So it will have enough velocity but hopefully end in a deeper tone that matches a truck. But yeah I genuinely was like okay that sounds like a potential big block... its probably short enough to where it doesn't turn into a musical instrument.. some of these truck guys drive me nuts. but yeah mines a 306... I probably put 100 hours into porting the E7 heads and truck intake / plenum. Yeah I have to make sure mine still fits once the rear sway bar goes in .. they'll be nice and hidden probably behind the factory running board too. I have like Moog progressive coils in the front ( hard to find replacement open coils) but they are the right weight and without the shocks in there the amount of bounce is amusing... even then I used rancho 5000s which are hydraulic instead of factory gas charged. My rear leaves I got from Stanley? and I don't know if I got ripped off but I swear the ones I took out had more arch to them... At least because I used one of those rear shackles that lifts it 1-2" but they are almost flat and the truck is unladen. BUT if I'm not mistaken having a soft front and a stiff rear is ideal for launching? or should the rear also have some squish.. It only has 235 / 15 tires with 3.73 posi but at some point will get something larger on a 15x10 like a 290ish. You obviously know what you're doing with dialing those in. In the van it will be awkward because it has front ( mid side) tank behind driver thats 16 gallons and a rear at 22 gallons... So obviously messing with where I'm fueling would play a part.
If you shorten the rubber stops or change them out for smaller ones, you can do all your adjusting by moving the rubber stop. The stops thread in and you put a lock nut on to hold them at the gap you set. You can back them way out when you’re not at the race track so the car has a better ride on the street.
There isnt enough thread on the rubber mount for me to do that otherwise that is the route i would have taken lol.
I think you should be happy that you have no wheel hop. I think you are trying to emulate the way Mopar Super Stock springs worked. They worked great for many years by driving the tires into the pavement on launch- until you reached a high enough power level that they actually bounced the rear of the car to the point that the tires unloaded before the car even moved. I think in a lot of cases longer and stiffer shocks might have helped to keep them from topping out but gotta use what you can find available. I will always believe that people who think a car should "squat" on launch are wrong. There have been many "hot setups" over the years. Ladder bars, Southside Machine bars, adjustable upper control arms, solid spring eye bushings, polyurethane bushings, three link, four link and the most current that I know of, Calvert bars with a single leaf spring preferably made of fiberglass or a polymer(?) and slider mounts. I'm not knocking any of them. I'm sure that racers have had success with each type. The biggest farce that I remember was in the 1990s when pinion angle became the biggest concern. I am not saying that correct pinion angle isn't important one bit, but the incorrect way that so many that I knew were measuring and adjusting were jazzing things up fer sure. Most suspension modifications will detract from ride quality and make annoying noises, though. I think for a street with car with realistic street car power levels slapper bars do a good job of preventing wheelhop which can be a problem on a lot of cars such as Mustangs, Novas, and others and they don't badly affect the ride quality, noise, or mannerism the way most other types do. The slappers that bolt on in place of the shock mount plates and mount to the U-bolts are much better than the spring clamp type like you have, though. Those sometimes make suspension noisey, loosen up, and shift around. I would expect that especially likely to happen with wooden spacers. Good luck. I dig the 'Stang. Too bad someone put the sunroof in it, though.
th-cam.com/users/shortsvWCU9kuKZRs?feature=share
I actually dont mind the sunroof all that much lol ive grown used to it 😅
Here is a back to back of the car launching with the new setup (i ended up taking the wood spacer off the passenger side and keeped the drivers side on)
It now spins both tires about 90% of the time on any road ive had it down 👍
@@newguysgarage6802 I got ya. I had Mopars with open rear ends and did pretty much the same as you're doing by tightening up the left front torsion bar to jack weight onto the right rear wheel.
How did the mopar SS work efficiently ?
I always cut the rubber snubbers and keep them equal length if running an posi. If they are too close it will ride like crap.
Where can l buy new rubber stoppers ? I run a maverick with traction bars
Can just google them and will find a bunch of different options 🙂
Will it make it pull to one side under hard acceleration???
Wow.. is that a 302 ? What's the exhaust /diameter? Sounds perfect but almost like a big block must have three inch at some point? Anyway I got truck version Lakewoods for my conversion van project.. seemed like a good idea.. long leaves, longest Ford axle (8.8 anyway) .. still building the vehicle but I've heard they make noise or are clunky? I saw hellwig makes something that bolts to the front top of the leaf pack to stiffen it up.. I even thought of making caltracs style by mixing and matching some parts.. already welded a truss to the axle so why not weld more stuff.. but yeah i know despite being made for a ford truck the shims they came with I dont think were quite enough. But because it's a truck the bars are long enough for the nub to hit perfectly under the leaf eyelet .. so are they still worth it? Or do people just do it for period correctness
We ripped the engine out and did a full teardown of it last fall and it is a .040 over 302 (so a 308) lol
It has dual 3in summit glasspacks that just dump right off the headers!
I like the slapper bars, vintage and they absolutely do work. There not the highest tech way of doing it but sometimes simpler is better.
They only make noise if they are loose (have big gaps between the snubber and the eye of the leaf spring. The closer the two are the quieter it is, my setup I can't hear them at all 😁
@@newguysgarage6802 Nice! yeah it sounds really good.. I'm sure it probably hurts the low end a little but in a small Mustang probably not a big deal. Yeah I'm doing 2.5s through to hi flo cats ( trying to keep some protection on an emissions engine as I think I might be asthmatic / copd ) and X-Pipe but then I have two Thrush Weldeds that are 3 inch. So it will have enough velocity but hopefully end in a deeper tone that matches a truck. But yeah I genuinely was like okay that sounds like a potential big block... its probably short enough to where it doesn't turn into a musical instrument.. some of these truck guys drive me nuts.
but yeah mines a 306... I probably put 100 hours into porting the E7 heads and truck intake / plenum.
Yeah I have to make sure mine still fits once the rear sway bar goes in .. they'll be nice and hidden probably behind the factory running board too. I have like Moog progressive coils in the front ( hard to find replacement open coils) but they are the right weight and without the shocks in there the amount of bounce is amusing... even then I used rancho 5000s which are hydraulic instead of factory gas charged. My rear leaves I got from Stanley? and I don't know if I got ripped off but I swear the ones I took out had more arch to them... At least because I used one of those rear shackles that lifts it 1-2" but they are almost flat and the truck is unladen. BUT if I'm not mistaken having a soft front and a stiff rear is ideal for launching? or should the rear also have some squish.. It only has 235 / 15 tires with 3.73 posi but at some point will get something larger on a 15x10 like a 290ish. You obviously know what you're doing with dialing those in. In the van it will be awkward because it has front ( mid side) tank behind driver thats 16 gallons and a rear at 22 gallons... So obviously messing with where I'm fueling would play a part.
Doing it backwards
How