ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 10 มี.ค. 2019
- Thingiverse: www.thingiverse.com/thing:348...
The Slack Lack was greatly influenced by the Original Prusa Enclosure found here: www.thingiverse.com/thing:286...
That being said, all of the design and CAD for this enclosure is my own. I wanted an enclosure for printing ABS but I also wanted to be able to leave the front open when printing PLA. I didn't want to have to leave the doors wide open as this sits in my living room, I knew I wanted pocket doors.
It is designed to be tall enough to hold an Ender 3 and a 30mm tall paving stone (helps in vibration reduction). The total usable height is 50cm. The doors hinge shut and latch via magnets. There are also support magnets in the hinge peices that prevent it from sliding while opening and closing the doors normally. The doors will slide back on tracks into the enclosure out the way. Finally, the doors can even be removed very easily by partially opening the door and sliding it off the magnets.
---
Purchase Parts Needed:
- Magnets 20x6x1.5mm Qty 12 (These were easier for me to find than the magnets sourced by the Prusa group)
- Screws 6x50mm Qty 8
- Screws 5x20mm Qty 14 (These were also easier to source, you'll need 2 more if you use my remote PSU bracket)
- Plexiglass 3x450x492mm Qty 3
- Plexiglass 3x214x492mm Qty 2
---
Printing:
- Expect to use nearly a full roll of filament!
- I printed everything in PETG, 20% infill, 3 walls
- I've made sure that all the parts were uploaded in their proper orientation for printing.
- SUPPORTS: Parts needing supports are Front_Spacer_TL.stl and Front_Spacer_TR.stl
- Parts these parts 2x: Track.stl, TrackTop.stl, and Spacer_TB.stl
- Print Catch.stl 3x
- IMPORTANT: The 4 pairs of hinge and barrel pieces that mate should have some friction and should not be loose. This friction is what keeps the hinge sections aligned when they are slid back in the enclosure.
---
Assembly:
- Assembly is straight forward, you can follow the same tutorial from the Prusa Enclosure.
- I used plain Elmer's style white glue to glue the upper and lower tracks to the plexiglass.
- Use super glue for the magnets.
- Use HoldFinder.stl to predrill your holes for the Catch's.
---
Additional Notes:
My Ender3 remote PSU mount is here (should work for original and Pro version, Pro version hasn't been verified): www.thingiverse.com/thing:343...
LED strip mount that I used (2x per strip, 6 total): www.thingiverse.com/thing:291... - วิทยาศาสตร์และเทคโนโลยี
Magnet Tip. The original creator mentions below occasionally having to re-glue magnets with CA. I produce a line of model aircraft that use magnets for wing holds and hatch holds. Firstly, CA glue is very brittle like glass. When the magnets come together it's with a snap. So they slowly crack up and loosen from the glue. Use Epoxy. Epoxy is not brittle and is in fact a bit soft. This will no break from the shockwave of the two magnets slamming together. Before you glue them, burnish the magnet slightly with fine sandpaper - like 150 to 300 grit. The idea is to put a haze of fine scratches on the magnet, not to sand through the plating. Just take the shine off. Slower epoxy glues tend to be softer after curing. But, 5 minute is fine. I swirl a little around in the hole, put a little in the magnet, then press the magnet in. Then lay a patch of wax paper or use painters tape over the magnet. Then lay something steel on the magnet that is flat, a razor blade on it's side is perfect. Now use the flat metal object to press the magnet flush with the surface. This prevents you from putting it below the surface and the magnetism it's self prevents the magnet from slipping below the surface (if the hole is loose) as it holds it's self up to the metal object. Allow to cure 1 to 2x the epoxy cure time. These magnets will not fall out and will be right up flush with surface where they will have the most holding power. Enjoy!
Or rubberized CA
Gorilla glue or foam-tac. Problem solved.
Excellent work!! It looks so clean and professional, thanks for sharing.
I'll link my build once im done printing these last few parts and assemble it. Seriously awesome design!
You've been at it a while and still no link. Having any luck?
Actually I want this too!!
@@SABRE-ls5fu my parts just finished printing last night
Really a great design. I give you my like Thanks for sharing.
great 3d model, great work! tip my hat to you.
Thanks for sharing it going to make it!
thus is awesome I am printing as we speak. Question are the thickness for glass 3mm?
Great topic 👍
SON of A B.....im friggin' over 30hours into another print and i find this bad assery ....now do i cut my losses and start over is the question haha sick case man!
can you confirm which glue you used to bond/glue petg to the acrylic panels. thanks
Could this be printed in PLA? or would it get to hot?
Hi, i want assembly printing parts,
maybe to this instruction with the sizes of the screws and their places?
Where did you source your acrylic panels? I am finding a few kits, but all the acrylic panels are too small and idk if I want to custom order some
Hello, first of all i want to congratulate you for the design. I would like to ask a question about the slack table legs.
From the pictures i can see that the spacers are less than 50x50mm the dimention that the legs have. I mean the spacer side and the leg side are not straight, is this for a special reason ?
I am about to print and assemble your design soon.
Congratulations once again it is very clever the sliding removable doors system.
Any feedback on this ? Thanks!
I like the design, I do want to ask how easily can you get to the extruder to swap filaments? with the glass on the side I'd imagine it would be a bit troublesome
Not bad, I change filaments quite often, it helps a ton not having the doors in the way .
bonjour quel est la dimension de la table? merci sinon beau travail
Hallo. Thanks for this amazing and unique design. Only one request. How to make more higher? My Genius desn't fit for that dimension. I need at least 55cm high.
You could replace the lack legs by a wooden beam from the hardware store which you saw into pieces of 55+cm length.
Are you going 4mm?
Does this work with ABS? I couldn’t help but notice the large gaps along the doors
Screws 6x50mm Qty 8
Screws 5x20mm Qty 14
Are these self tapping and the screws that I have listed above where do they go? Thanks for all your time and hard work
Check out the original lack design by the Prusia group and they have a detailed walkthrough for the build
This is a couple years late, but still. Congrats on making this man this is a fuckin amazing design. Do you have an engineering background or something like that?
Hi there! I love your setup, ive printed it myself and yeah, a lotta PLA goes in this one! Im having trouble with one thing though. How do you feed your fillament trough the top and to the extruder? The fillament must make such a weird bent im afraid it wont work...
Drill a hole through the top and use one of the ball bearing roller guides on thingiverse. Been running it that way for a year now with no issues. 👍
nnorton00 thanks! Will try that!
@@aeroxapc www.thingiverse.com/thing:3061551
This is the specific one I use
nnorton00 i’m using the same one. Did a search on filament guide and found this one the best looking, works like a charm. But, i’m replacing it with an ptfe tube when my order arrives! No more threading filament, just insert from the top and feed it through the extruder.
Are all those catcher kind of things just only for the bottom 4 spacers? Are you on supposed to put a screw in the catchers and have the bottom spacers just lean on them?
The catches are for the bottom only, it's so the top can be removed easily for full access to the printer if needed. Like I stated in the other reply and on the thingiverse page, please see the Prusa enclosure documentation if you don't understand what is going on.
Nice building!
For what do you need two tables? Why not just Polycarbonate on the top without a second table?
The bottom table is for storage,. The printer being in the top table raises it up. If it was in just one table, it would be sitting on the floor. Seems self explanatory?
How has it held up? I just ordered my printer and tomorrow going to IKEA this week to buy the lack tables. I can't start assembly before I printed the parts and can't print until I get my printer so I'm finding out what I want right now.
Yup, occasionally I'll have to reglue a magnet. Even using super glue I've had 3-4 that I've had to reglue, NBD though.
Where do you source the acrylic panels?
There was a plastics distributor near where I lived that cut the pieces to size and shipped them. I believe it was right around €40-€50.
II just printed all the parts and started assmbling, I have an issue with the Ikea lack legs which are hollow. Howsare the screws syupposed to support the leg, I have tried multiple times and have wasted a few lack table legs. Am i missing something?
Watch the Prusa build video, it should clear up any assembly issues.
Is there a build video for this enclosure?
No build video, but explanation and BOM available on Thingiverse.
damn how is your printer so quiet. the sliding doors are cool tho. but even with noctua fans and tmc2208 the bearings make a lot of noise and my Y axis make a vroom like noise
I upgraded to a MKS gen l with tmc2208's. I had a lot of noise in one direction as well but through troubleshooting figured out that one of my solder jobs messed up the chip on the tmc. Made a new one and it was perfect. I followed this tutorial to make sure I was enabling uart mode: www.deviousweb.com/2019/01/05/ender-3-pro-mks-gen-l-tmc-2208-upgrade/
will cr-6 se fit into?
Hello! I tried on my end with my own CR6 SE. It's just a few mm short in height, even when removing the handle, so you'd need extra pieces to make the legs longer. I'll comment back here if I encounter other problems, but even the Y axis seem to be rather tight, and you can't keep the side spool holder.
really cool
ciao, è possibile sapere l'altezza interna netta????io ho una Longer lk4 pro.
L'altezza utile totale è di 50 cm.
@@nnorton00 thanks
So sick, i’m kind of intimidated To build it, But such a good design
It's cheap and it doesn't bite, just print it ffs
Can you make a assembly video how you build it
That would require making another one or tearing down this one and building back up again. I don't think that I'll go that far, but if you follow the link to the Thingiverse page, you'll find that there is an exploded view in the files that shows where everything goes and how many quantities of each. Hope that helps.
nnorton00 thankyou for the reaction i will try to make it with the exploded vieuw can you make for me a video with more detail inside en outside from closer if you want to do that you can send the video by email
Is it also calm down the noise
Nowhere you've shown how to build this, the drawing is so low-res and very hard to follow. Also can only build it upside down for now since I want to lay down where comes what makes it even more confusing :(
Like I state on the thingiverse page, you should follow the Prusa enclosure build guide. It has a very nice walkthrough on how to build the enclosure, mine only differs by the front doors which you should be able to see on the high resolution diagram that is included in the zip download from thingiverse, not the smaller thumbnail on the preview page.
Wait, that's illegal!