Ender 3 IKEA Lack Enclosure (Part 1)
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 12 ต.ค. 2021
- I used 50mm risers, STLS: www.thingiverse.com/thing:308...
This time i decide to throw in some editing and music, enjoy!
Instagram: / hobbyist_notes
Music:
I Don't See the Branches, I See the Leaves by Chris Zabriskie is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution 4.0 license. creativecommons.org/licenses/...
Source: chriszabriskie.com/dtv/
Artist: chriszabriskie.com/ - วิทยาศาสตร์และเทคโนโลยี
![How to Build a Cheap 3d Printer Enclosure [Part 1]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/yIhD7Br588k/mqdefault.jpg)
what slicer your using?cant your share slicer profile petg and abs for ender 3v2 ?
In this project i used default CURA profiles for print and material settings after that just set 120% speed on the printer. For Voron's ABS parts i use recommended Voron's settings. I'll see if i can upload them somewhere, but there is nothing special pretty much stock CURA profiles.
it looks good and everything but where and how do you put the filament then?
Currently working on second part of this video, will explain everything, I think I'll post it before end of this year.
Have you used any FAN inside the enclosure to maintain consistent temperature while printing ABS, NYLON etc..
No fans, it’s stabilizes itself on 40 (C)
@@hobbyistnotes Without fan will it stabilizes itself for long print like 15Hrs or 20Hrs ??
@@mugeshrajaram6306 I usually do ~10-12h prints but few times had 20h and temps were around 40-45 anyway even enclosure is mostly sealed with silicone.
@@Agilato Can you please share a silicone seal link for reference.
Can you please share the silicone seal link which you used.
Funny question, but why did you have an air filter(?) next to your printer on the left side? Do you need air filter for printing with PLA? Is it recommended?
I have noticed if I print a lot of PETG I start to have nasty cough next few days after the printing and air purifier have helped big time with this issue.
@@hobbyistnotes oh I see. Thanks
Where does the filiment sit? How easy is it to change the filiment out? I usually have to pull really hard to get my filiment out, I don't think i'd have room to take it out.
What setup you have? What extruder? Do u have direct drive or Bowden? There are a lot of ways where you can place the filament (Inside, outside)
Nice building!
For what do you need two tables? Why not just Polycarbonate on the top without a second table?
As I have 4 printers I want them to take as less space as possible... Tables are cheap + with second table I have extra storage, not sure if polycarbonate will be able to hold extra 3D printer up top with few spool of filament and extras.... tho you definitely can do this build with one table I think it's just preference.
Hello mate, can you mention the sizes of screws and nuts you used please? Cheers.
There are links in description to original thingiverse projects, all needed hardware listed there.
@@hobbyistnotes Hello mate, sorry, I read the description in thingiverse before asking you. I couldn't see any specifics. That's the reason asked you. Cheers.
@@ellankih For mounting printed parts to a table legs and top/bottom I used 52 x wood screws 20 and 30mm in length with 7mm head. For the panels 16xM3 bolts ~10mm in length and M3 nuts.
@@hobbyistnotes Cheers mate. That is very helpful. Much appreciated.
Can u tell me the dimentions of the platform the printer is sitting on.
Not sure what exact platform we are talking about but those are 2 IKEA Tables stacked on top of each other, you can just Google the “lack ikea table dimensions” for the sizes.
You wrote that you're using the 50mm risers, so I wonder, did you use them on the upper and the lower part (8 in total)? Thanks already for your answer 🙌
Yes, 50mm around, 8 total.
@@hobbyistnotes Okay cool, thanks for your quick answer! And heightwise you're not running in any problems and would resemble it that way again if you could, right?
@@Joerg I gifted this enclosure to my friend but while running I had no issues at all.
Does the RGB improve the prints?
+100 to print quality and speed ;-)
hi ! Have you got the right dimension for all the plexiglass please ? Just to be sure because please !
You need dimensions in metric or imperial measuring system?
@@hobbyistnotes Can I Please have the dimensions in inches?
@@DomimoD_YG 17,5 x 19,6 inch for each panel, door size just a tiny-bit smaller.
44,5mm x 49,8mm in metric
hey, I built an enclousure with the same dimensions as you did. How much smaller did you make the door panel to fit?
Hi do you have a link to all parts printed?
Please take a look at the description. Good luck with printing ;-)
Hi, what is the dimension of the ikea lack table?
No idea but you can google it in about 1 second.
is it not posable to use the top risers for all attachments?
Not sure what you are referring to, but I think I have used same part for all 8 corners
@@hobbyistnotes so i would like to build this but as small as possible for my ender 3v2 but i didnt know if you could use 40mm for all 16
@@X_BIGELL_X I wish I could measure for you but I gifted my ender 3 with this enclosure to my friend... I remember that size was perfect... you want to have a little bit more space there for extra comfort and ease of maintenance
Does it overheat? should we put some fans on the top or something?
I recommend to get termometer and track temp inside to be fully confident. The whole purpose of chamber is to keep heat, per my experience even with fully closed and sealed chamber my temps never were over 45c with max print was 12hours. I actually thought to add cheap thermostat with heat pump and fan to get more controlled heat which will allowed to print more temp-critical materials such as peek.
As for printer, it's depence how hot you make your chamber, as is now I use Ender 3 with all electronics inside and all works fine.
@@hobbyistnotes Thank you for your response, I will build one and see if I need a fan to regulate the heat. Your idea of a thermostat is great for that. I do many long prints 18-24hours each so maybe I will need it, we'll see. Thanks for the video!
@@firasb2269 Per my experience cartesian printers aren't perfect for long ABS prints as it always moves print thru the air by Z-Axis, so I use Core-XY printer for long prints and use this enclosure for 8-10h ABS prints only, but I bet you can push it further if Temp inside will be higher.
The risers for all 8 pieces meaning the top and bottom are all the same?
Yes
@@hobbyistnotes I am currently printing 2 of the pieces. Nice simple but affective design!!!
@@deans7538 Nice ;-) Hope the build will play out well for you, don't forget to not tight screws to tight or part will split/crack....
2:40 the wood is popping out
me: "what wood this is ikea"
Good point ;-)
it broke because of the tapered head screw use flat head screw instead, nice video my friend👍👍
You are right but it's kind of too late, the enclosure is already gone ;-)
What if the bed is all the way out does it fit?
4:20
Snag fit both back and front are about 5-10mm distance from the walls/doors.
What Kind of screes and nuts i need? Can U list it?
@@hobbyistnotes thanks dude
Links at description have all information you needed.
Бро , дароФ! Так ты давай хоть субтитры на русском.. чтоб охват аудитории был больше..
Так есть же автоматический перевод в настройках, чем он плох?