Now I want to see what effect all this has on your prints, how it affects warping, etc, and how humidity is affected by all this. This is all especially important to anyone who wants to print with materials that are sensitive to these things such as PVA.
My suggestion is to not think of it as multiple passes through a filter (or even dead spaces), but rather you are dripping warm water into a cold bathtub. It is going to take quite a while for the filtered air (warm water) fills any portion of the room. Perhaps there are additional forces at play with the fan, meaning that it's possible the fan is pushing air that is around the fan (and not only the air that is going through the filtration). An example of this is a guy trying to blow up something, but he blows much more as he backs away from the nozzle. Perhaps this is how that fan cylinder might play into the filtration ecosystem.
As someone who does work as a researcher with 3D printers, I agree with the majority of your points but there are two things missing. An explanation of what air you think of as safe or problematic to reference back to and the best advice when it comes to working with macro particles. The problems with polluted air that has a high concentration of macro particles really make an impact when you both have long exposure to this air *and* when you do not ventilate your own lungs. Going out to nature\ jogging a couple of times a week or even getting back home by foot makes a drastic difference and should have been the highest recommended tip of this great video
Wow. that's something I never heard of. Good to know. I somehow thought, that all particles are kind of like asbestos. once inside lungs, they;re there.
There is a far far more important part he is missing. Not all VOCs are harmful to breath. A VOC (Volatile Organic Compound) is defined as a type of organic chemical that has a high vapor pressure at room temperature, which means it can easily evaporate into the air. Alcohol is a VOC, specifically ethanol, the kind you drink, and it is generally not not harmful to breath. The only measurements he has are for VOCs and not the actual chemicals like the toxic styrene gas created during abs printing. If what we really care about is the toxic particles, why mention VOCs? Because something that can detect and measure VOCs is like $50 and something that can do that with styrene gas costs around $5,000.
@@anthonykgarland How do you block a channel? As far as I know that's not possible, but what do I know. Hope I'm wrong there are a lot of channels I'd like to block so I'd never see them again. Like PC tech rumor channels. "the 8900xtx will destroy nvidia, the 8900xtx is cancelled, then the 8900xtx will destroy nvidia in a later video again even if it was cancelled a few videos ago".
@@anthonykgarlandChrist almighty... The topic is complex enough for several PHDs, maybe cut a guy some slack when even studies are hard pressed to actually quantify issues.
The conclusion of the test is literally that he is now going for a full air exchange first and filtration second. Which is exactly because the VOCs are more dangerous than what's outside...
I use Indoor Plant tents with fumigation holes for enclosures for my 3d printers. Then I can use exhaust fans and carbon filters and pump the air directly outside. I wear my mask with appropriate filters whenever the enclosures are open. Videos like this are important to bring this to more 3d printers attentions as this is not something people are being told about when they are buying these printers most of the time. Especially if they just buy from amazon.
Can I just ask why you still use carbon filters if you're immiedietly pumping the air outside anyways? Is it just to avoid residual stuff once you open the enclosure?
@@johannd1100 First floor window and homes in close proximity, using the filter to keep the smell down and yes, it also helps keep the residual smell in the enclosure down.
As a scale modeler who is starting to get into 3d printing - I deal with a lot of fumes from modelling glues and paints, etc., and another thing that can help with things like soldering and painting and gluing is an airbrush booth that has a fan and an exhaust hose to a window. If you've not used one before it's great for the hands-on detailed work with VOCs and I highly recommend trying one of those as well. I use it not just for airbrushing, but for gluing and sanding and everything else. Hope it helps!
Me: continue printing and soldering as usual ans slowly die from cancer 🤣. More seriously, man this is a hard problem to solve when living in an apartment. Also me living in Finland doesn't make it any easier, with our cold winters...
@@Iisakki3000 I understand and I also have a soldering station🤣. I am in college so I don't have much choice too. We die but die happy with 3d printers xD
@@Iisakki3000edit: carbon filters might not be enough ... if y'all have access to carbon filters, you can use a PC fan to make a fume extractor. With a 3d printer, you can make a moving arm to point this where you want to suck.
@@Iisakki3000 Opening a window seems like a "tempered climate"-comment. 😅 Try looking for air scrubbers. They have both HEPA-(for PM) and active coal-(for VOC) filters.
@@rafael.b.almeida For soldering i personally usr lead free solder but the fumes are still bad for you even when no lead in there and since i don't usr fume hood of at least a fan to take those fumes away i usually hold my nose closed while soldering so i don't really breath as much fumes in
Minor/major detail Formaldehyde is a nearly colorless, highly irritating gas with a sharp odor. It dissolves easily in water and is found in formalin (a solution of formaldehyde, water, and methanol). Formaldehyde is used in the manufacture of plastics; urea-formaldehyde foam insulation; and resins used to make construction materials (e.g., plywood), paper, carpets, textiles, paint, and furniture. OSHA PEL (permissible exposure limit) = 0.75 ppm (averaged over an 8-hour work shift) OSHA STEL (short-term exposure limit) = 2 ppm (15 minute exposure) NIOSH IDLH (immediately dangerous to life or health) = 20 ppm Formaldehyde is a nearly colorless gas with a pungent, irritating odor even at very low concentrations (below 1 ppm). Its vapors are flammable and explosive. Because the pure gas tends to polymerize, it is commonly used and stored in solution. Formalin, the aqueous solution of formaldehyde (30% to 50% formaldehyde), typically contains up to 15% methanol as a stabilizer. "fresh air in the bottom junk out the top" is the recommendations standard but PPM don't mean squat unless you know what your measuring for! you measured up to 6000 PPM and formaldehyde as an example is dangerous at 2-3 ppm not 6000 PPM industrial air exchanges in higher VOC areas should be 3:1 at minimum MSDS sheets should be included/some require a request in the the supply of each material and simply follow the safety in section 4 MATERIAL SAFTEY DATA SHEETS
I'm not an expert but what the hell is buying a bunch of tiny fans to move air around the room going to do for removing pollutants? First it should be obvious that physics dictates that bigger fans move more air. I seriously doubt those tiny Bento Boxes have any appreciable effect. Have you seen how large and heavy the carbon filters are in e.g. cannabis grow rooms? They need fans to draw air through it in order to work. Like imagine if a smoker doesn't blow air through a Smokebuddy carbon filter, but blows all the smoke into the room, and then wait for the air to magically circulate back into the filter. That's basically what you're doing in this video. Those enclosed 3D printers aren't airtight, and I'm pretty sure there's more pressure for the air to escape that box than to be pulled into a tiny filter that's not connected to anything.
Yeah, to put it nicely, this is obviously not a very brilliant approach. As a professional whose works in advanced composite material shops in aviation I can tell you we use about a and that's just for cooling. Seriously all of this stuff should probably technically have downdraft tables and vent hoods from the word go. Beyond that you should be wearing a full-face mask I don't know why you would think like oh and just take my mask off cuz it's so convenient but go ahead and do that all you want just know that it's in no way safe. The entire environment needs to be completely and continuously circulated and a couple fans here and there are going to do next to nothing aside from maybe get you a sponsor. Seriously I kind of don't know why I watched this it's a bit of a joke.
I purchased a forced air purifier designed for circulating a small house for my workspace, and that can barely keep up with my space. But he is definitely right that the printers are the least of your problems; for just FDM printing, a small fan and an open window keeps the quality high enough that my purifier rarely turns on. Soldering and sanding are the big ones for me (I imagine laser work is even worse), and for that I have to run a downdraft table that vents directly outside, even then the purifier runs at full blast to keep AQ above 70%. The resin printing airborne VOC is HIGHLY dependent on which resin I use; some barely kick out anything, and others quickly get AQ into the danger zone. I've noticed the flexible resins tend to be the worst, while the water washable ones tend to be the best. Here's me wishing I'd paid more attention in organic chemistry class.
The Bento Boxes work really well. Tests have shown they eliminate VOCs nearly entirely (there was another TH-cam video on this that did a great job in a test situation). The Bento Box is designed for a closed box printer, not one that is open.
Even those of us that live in the country can't just open a window all year round. I live in midland Sweden and winter is coming. Not going to open a window or door when it's -15º outside.
There is a way to deal with it, but knowing you guys in EU with your eco and efficiency craze, you probably not gonna like it... You see, one can use something like a radiant kerosene burner to heat your working room and it requires by design that you'll have that window open to avoid things like carbon monoxide poisoning etc. There are other options like diesel heater (that are designed for autonomous van-house kind of thing... you know those american houses on the wheels stuff) which are kind of overpowered (4-8kW) for a small room and that's exactly how you keep it warm. You just use that and open the window (not that they dump exhaust in your room, they have a pipe to put it outside through a hole in a wall). That sure is wasting some energy but believe me, active filtering and then replacing filters, checking filters condition, buying new ones, using automatic purifiers like in this video and a bunch of other things are much more expensive than just heating your room a bit more and venting it during the cold season. The key is to have a really tiny room where you do this, then you won't waste too much energy. Also I would rely more on infrared heating (like those kerosene ones provide) than convection through air (like deasel heaters do). It is probably more efficient to heat solid surfaces instead of the air that is being circulated anyway and would carry your heat away just like that. Of course there are more refined solutions like vent systems with automated air filtering + air preheating or cooling down for the summer and what not, but they are probably constly (obvisouly those are for businesess, not for hobbyists) and may not be available everywhere you may want them.
@@user-qn6kb7gr1d They might have more efficient heating systems up there. The go-to solution should be extracting the air through a one way tube, as shown at 11:00. You make a hole in the wall, insulate it, then connect the extension
@@LollosoSiTV if heating is the main concern, I believe the go-to solution should be (not are yet) those split system heat pumps with filtered fresh air intake. No idea why it's not a widespread thing. Modern 3d printers usually have a vent and a reasonably well insulated chamber. So there should be not need to pollute everything in the room, those pipes can be connected just to those vents in the chamber and air dumped out through it only when it is reasonable (no reason to do that during the entire printing process in a well insulated chamber).
I’m Canadian and umm I open windows in the winter all the time…. I can’t stand stagnant air and well I hate being in 22c and up as a rule…. I’m a bit crazy that way. I tend to open the upstairs windows more since the cold air drops to the basement.
This is such a great topic. The biggest effect on air exchange by a duct or a fan in short amounts of time is achieved by pushing clean air in rather than sucking air out. Extraction is typically limited to only helping a very small portion of the total volume of a room (about 1 diameter of the duct's distance from the opening at the end of the duct/fan). With suction, the remainder of the air remains stagnant or in a circular flow that doesn't make it out of the room. The induction of air method (i.e. pushing air into a room) is far more effective but still runs into air currets limiting exchanging air which is why it has to be carefully designed in industrial/commercial applications. Its really effective a 4ish duct diameter distance but then drops off quickly. The random oscillating fan you had is way more effective because it creates more than a single axis for air current which allows for.the room air to move much more and speeding up the exchange of the whole volume of the room. Your best bet is to have local extraction hose at the source of each contaminating operation that dumps to the exterior (think wood working dust extraction systems). Then have a filtered supply of fresh air blowing into the room feeding into the room at one corner/end with an opening "exhaust" vent at the opposite end of the space. The oscillating fans will then help mix that stream of air crossing the room from the supply duct source. Thanks for making this video because it's very counter intuitive how air moves but just drop food coloring into water and see what path the coloring takes to mix to get an idea
i am genuinely amazed by how far down i had to scroll before anyone mentioned pressure. the best, bar none, solution to VOCs, 2.5ppm, and anything else, is negative pressure. any 3D printer put in an enclosure should have an exhaust system that puts the entire machine in negative pressure. this means that air cannot and will not flow out of the enclosure. it will only leave via the exhaust, which you can vent directly outside, preventing it from entering your workspace in the first place. for things like soldering, chemistry has you covered with things called "fume hoods". they're enclosures that put everything placed inside them under the same negative pressure environment. nothing can leave the enclosure without going through the exhaust system. how negative of a pressure you need (practically, this means how strong the suction is) depends on what you're doing. with an enclosure like was shown in the video with the filter under the print bed, you don't need it to be that negative, or that big of a pressure difference, while the doors are closed. if you want to maintain the negative pressure while the doors are open, you need to increase the difference quite a bit, but this will introduce new noise and other problems, especially if you want your chamber to be heated. realistically, the only option i can think of for heated chambers is to have a dedicated intake for the printer which passes the air through a heater (a DIY option would likely be a simple hair dryer or heat gun if you wanna go with more control). this way you can have the chamber still be heated, while also being able to directly vent the air outside.
Most homes don't filter the incoming air, they often use reverse air flow through the kitchen vents! I added an external vent with 20 inch high rating and another carbon filter after that and my meters can even detect any pollution, so they filters work. I pressurize the house lightly with the incoming fan. Then my workshop has a wind exhaust with a fan outside to muffle the noise. It clears pretty fast, a few hours, and you can keep it on, though you might want to add a heat recover unit.
Ideally you would use vent hoods and downdraft tables for all of it and then you would wear respirator whenever in the environment. Then you perform regular industrial hygiene surveys. Anything less is a half-measure.
I have a P1S and have printed a hood with magnetic fasteners, this attaches over the outlet on the back of the printer, and connects to a 2” duct about 15” long. This is routed through the wall of my study, and has a 3 flap cover on the outside wall. I have also removed the activated carbon filter, as it is no longer required, and restricts the flow. When the printer is running the fumes inside the P1S are vented directly outside, and the printer operates in exactly the same way.
I was waiting for PLA is more toxic than ABS but i was mislead. My takeaway from this is if you print in an enclosed space it's pretty much just going to give you the same air quality as a city
I started printing back in 2012, the first week I noticed the ABS filament was intolerable indoors and sent it to my garage. My 3D printers have sat in a sealed closet with HEPA filter running since bring them back in I've always thought it was a false sense of safety when I started seeing "filtered" enclosed 3D printers, when they do a single pass and pump the air straight out into the environment
When you say out into the environment, do you mean the room or out through a hose at a window? I am trying to be very conscious of this problem, and so I'm getting an enclosure. The only problem is the enclosure that I needed doesn't come with a fan vent, so I'm going to cut one in it and stick a computer fan in it, with about a 1m pipe to a window.
@@arc5015 I just copy a other comment from this comment section you better consider: @kevinmitchell3168 said: Mixing up air IS A BAD IDEA! You need slow moving air flowing across the work space with fresh air being introduced where people are working, and being exhausted out on the other side of the pollution source. This is typically done with a fan pulling fresh air from outside and blowing it into a long fabric duct that has tiny holes in it to evenly introduce it throughout the entire area. The goal is to SLOWLY introduce fresh air. Then inside the print chamber, or the back side of a work bench, away from where people will be, you have the exhausted ducts. The amount of air going out should be slightly higher than the incoming so it creates a slightly negative pressure in the room and prevents polluted air from escaping into the rest of the building. You don't want fast moving air that will mix up the pollutants in the breathing area. This type of setup allows for slow air exchange and FAR less wasted energy. Filaments and printers need to be in climate controlled areas. This allows you to add a heater and/or air conditioner to the incoming duct (aka makeup unit), keeping the entire space climate controlled. You only need just enough air to ensure the polluted air is flowing away from the working area to the outside. I got this information from a US military report where they tested air quality in hundreds of facilities with harsh chemical environments. Their finding was that the number one cause of poor air quality was fans blowing air around and mixing it up.
I had a polarized media air cleaner installed on my HVAC system which has not only removed a lot of the visible household dust, but it also is rated and tested to remove VOCs.
With regard to gaps in enclosures, the way most designs mitigate that is via negative pressure: The fan sucks air out of the enclosure and exhausts it via a filter. As a result the airflow through all other paths should be mostly into the enclosure rather than out. Where this gets tricky is when you use closed-loop filtration systems like the ones sold by PrintedSolid. In that case there is no "net suction" from the enclosure, and bad stuff can leak out of all of the other openings in the enclosure. I think that your point about the relative harmlessness of printing well-dried ABS/ASA is valid.
I found regular use of a robot vacuum cut down the dust levels more than anything else and when I moved to a higher elevation, the outdoor air quality improved dramatically and it became clear that if you’re in the bottom of the valley, especially near a city or farming, the dust settles to the bottom so just few hundred feet of elevation can make all a difference in air quality
Man as an artist I have had lectures on why / basics of avoiding killing yourself via solvents and pigment poisoning. The whole lack of solid info on how / what causes issues has had me very nervous about buying a 3D printer (especially any resin based ones). I have a house rule that nail polish / acetone must be done ideally outside if not the patio entrance door way is wide open. So many glues and polishes are super dangerous to breathe in. Thank you for the information even if you didn’t follow scientific methods. ❤
I would echo the earlier comments. I did research for the U.S. Army for a few years. 1 micron to .1 micron are much more likely to lodge deep in your lungs than 2.5. Your lungs don't have a mechanism to sweep out these small particles. They do for the larger ones as long as you haven't damaged them with smoking. I'm only running one printer so putting it in an enclosure and connecting it to a window with a dryer vent and 120mm fan was a fool-proof solution. The fan pulls enough air out of the enclosure to keep the printer from overheating. The whole setup was under $100 US. You and your family only get one set of lungs.
What about exhaust hoods? I’m sure you could easily design an exhaust hood to go over top of your printers. I’d use it for both enclosed and open printers to try and suck up the air from those spaces. You can throw in a computer fan in the inlet and then have the hose dump it out a window.
There’s some things anybody can learn as soon as you see it with your own eyes so here’s something I learned that was an eye-opener. I was playing with air filtration and to check it. I would turn off all the lights at night and use a very bright LED, which allows you to see airborne particles With extreme clarity what I learned was the unused closed room that nobody had been in or even walk-through for hours had the cleanest air simply walking through a room turns up dust, but running an air filter keeps the entire room turned with super fine. Dust! Any fan never lets the rest of it settle! VOC’s that’s a different story yeah I know carbon works great but without a VOC meter as you pointed out, it would be useless. Very good point.
THANK YOU!!! I respect the makers who equally value healthy solutions while making cool stuff. We the "followers" of all this social media content should also be hearing what content creators are doing to stay safe. Appreciate to balance between creativity and safety conscious. Thanks for raising this issue up and highlighting the importance.
How to build a car spray paint booth in your house. Watching these videos helped me understand pressure and flow in order to move the contaminated air out of your space. A 30" window fan was sufficient.
Thanks for the research. I just got my first printer and was wondering about air quality. And thanks for the reminder of why we moved from the middle of Los Angeles to the mountains of New Mexico, surrounded by pine trees and chirping birds :) However, I still need to figure out ventilation for the winter months when it's too cold to leave the windows open.
I recently had my first baby and ive been trying to take air quality in our home a lot more seriously for his sake. I keep my makers space in a separate room where i have added an air purifier an exhaust fan for my resin printer and I always have a window open so i can get some fresh air. I will be purchasing one of these dreo fans as the data clearly shows that it does a good job at circulating the air. Thank you for the video! It was just what i was looking for.
I bought a broken gas station fridge that's 30"x30" on the outside, Made a shelf with a drawer in it, and printed some Lack enclosure hepa filtered fan housings. As well as a small recirculating hepa fan. I've never tested the air quality in that room, but im sure it's OK.
I guess I am very lucky. I live in the woods in Northern Michigan with excellant air quality. But, this has given me much to think about as we head into WINTER and closed air flow homes.
I'm surprised you didn't know that workshop spaces are so polluted. Every serious factory have to monitor the air quality on a daily basis and even have those monitor kits that they are putting on workers once in a while to get accurate data. The government even regulate it. I'm strongly advising every workshop worker / makers to put mask with quality filters. Still great video! Keep doing your thing!
I had no idea about that... wow! I don't have an engineering or manufacturing background, and I've never worked in a company that wasn't internet-related, so yeah, this is all new to me. Thanks for sharing. I wonder what kind of sensors etc they use... it would be good to pick some of those up for each of the rooms of my work-space
I got very sick after getting into printing ABS. I got really good at it, so I had my printer going almost 24/7, it was in an enclosure, but not ventilated. It took me 3 months after I stopped all 3d printing to get better to the point my doctor was not concerned any more. Since then my printer has been in an enclosure that vents to the outside via a 4" duct and a very slow moving 80mm fan. Now that I ordered a Bambu P1S, I will design a way to route the air from the enclosure to the outside via that same duct. I am still scared to print ABS / ASA just because the smell of the filament triggers horrible memories. But I'll figure out.
@@killdozer3464 I have a P1S and have printed a hood with magnetic fasteners, this attaches over the outlet on the back of the printer and connects to a 2” duct about 15” long. This is routed through the wall of my study, it has a 3 flap cover on the outside wall. I have also removed the activated carbon filter, as it is no longer required, and restricts the flow. When the printer is running the fumes inside the P1S are vented directly outside, and the printer operates in exactly the same way.
Even just raising awareness of this problem is a GOOD thing, thank you for making this video. I'm going to move my printer to the garage on the weekend now. Don't listen to the wankers claiming it's not perfect, etc. People love a good whinge while also contributing nothing. Take care.
the only saving grace of air management is negative/positive pressure I built a fume hood in my workshop and it works great I do need to improve the whole room circulation though and I can't leave the hood running 24/7 so it probably leaks resin fumes a little bit
I throw you a basic conditioning tip which my father told me (he's the engineer me nuh) and I found it useful when indoor growing weed: If you enclose the printer enough you have to duct out at least 2,5x the sum of the area of the gaps which allows air in. That's the min section of your air outlet, but as you forcefully extract the air you can go as low as 2x if the air vent is very powerful. 2,5x "should suffice" in the case of ex. a chimney, forced air but no motor no mechanical forced extraction. As you work "underpressured" and not in the meaning of lazy :) there's no chance anything except radiations could escape the enclosure of the printer if not through the forced exctraction. Add a duct of the right section to drive the air out of the premises and out there you might use a carbon filter the ones for the growrooms. Given the volume of a printer compared to a full blooming afghani kush you see that a 20 bucks worth agricultural filter will last you at least 6 months on printers. ;) Think they're conceived for who even uses forced CO2 on the blooms to force the plants growth, not merely to avoid suspicious smells. Air recycling is an easy game. It's hydroponics the tricky one. 😂😂😂
PLA irritates my throat and lungs a LOT. Asthma makes me way more sensitive than normal people, but the fact is, the nanovirus fills the entire house even with an enclosure with an exhaust hose and a fan, several closed doors, and open windows. I am waiting for a HEPA air purifier, but the PLA particles are still smaller than what HEPA can manage. Looks like a deadend. My best solution so far: open the windows and leave the house and go to the nearest mall like a bum and let the machine overlord live in my house (or give up and not print in the house, which means no winter printing). The funny thing is, I switched to FDM printing to escape from nasty resin fumes that destroy my heart, only to find out that “completely safe” PLA is an extreme irritant for me as well. But asthma aside, I don't think breathing nanoplastic is much good for anyone, even tough guys from reddit. This vid, honestly, paints a picture that is even worse than what I thought. Ugh.
Place your printers in an enclosed case (I used mdf to build a box with a door to place my printer in) and make sure it's air tight, you also want to ensure there is enough open space in the enclosed case to take your lid off resin printer and be able to do everything necessary inside. Then get a boat motor fan 3-5" and use it as a exhaust suction fan to suck out all the voc's in the case and push them through a exhaust hose or pipe headed outside your house (I cut hole in wall of house and ran it through there). From the outside of your house have the exhaust pipe or hose aim upward and be at least 3 ft above that rooms roof (to decrease odds of voc's being pushed out and pulled back in through open window). I am hazmat and HazWhopper certified, anyone wishing to handle dangerous chemicals should get the same certifications. The room I keep this case in I have two fans circulating air while a window is open. Always wear the proper PPE when 3-d printing
This is a huge wake up call for me. I got a 3d printer in 2021, and my asthma started getting worse as time went on. "PLA is safe, right?" I have 4 printers running in my basement, about 20 ft from my bedroom door. About six months ago I was admitted to the hospital with acute respiratory failure and had a cloudy ct scan indicating lung damage. We were thinking it was from covid or from thc vape pens. But I never officially had covid, and I barely used those pens in the past. Now I think it was from the printers. That's a big bummer. Time to put the hobby on hold I guess. Your comment was very insightful. Thank you.
@@mikek3658 all resins and filaments produce VOC's (resins at a higher volume than filaments when in liquid form) they are dangerous when inhaled, can cause cancer, breathing problems, calcification/crystalization of lungs and other organs (though rare, the exposure would have to be great and long term). Always wear a respirator when around resins or filaments.
@@mikek3658 fellow asthmatic here, that’s 1000% certain PLA particles 0,1 micron diameter. HEPA H13 filters manages up to 0,3 diameter. A shed somewhere outside, or a balcony.
I have just bought a plant growing box, that can be sealed and have ventilation to a window, a friend of mine recommended us getting one as we live in an apartment with doors to only 2 rooms.. It has been hell printing anything on my resin printer bc of the air quality, and as a result i haven't really printed anything.. I really hope putting my printer in an isolated box with ventilation to the outside will help, but i think ill buy a air quality checker thingy so i can keep an eye out on ventilating our apartment too. I do think the best thing would be to have any kind of printer in an area you aren't in often, and/or in a closed off box/cabinet/closet/whatever that can contain the toxic fumes and ventilate them out.
All of my printers are enclosed with 3" ducting and large online fans sending the air from inside the enclosures outside. If I wait for prints to cool and the printer to cool wouldn't this insure a the air in the room is clean? I also put my filament dryers in a vented enclosure and do have an oscillating fan bring air from the door into the room. Would have been nice to see a test with enclosed ventilated printers etc. At work we have a lot of printers going in the office space. I am a retired firefighter and medical responder and had to treat a fellow working for breathing the pollutants from 3D printers and we ultimately moved them to their own space with exhaust ventilation. I am using online axial fans that are 75 cfm for each enclosure.
One more thing to add is that every time you bring home a new product, like a printer, or anything manufactured, it may give off VOCs for a period of time. That "new smell" might seem nice, but may not be great for you.
Love your stuff! And this was super informative! Anecdotal at best. But I did a big project and had 8 p1ps running in my living room 24/7 for 15 days printing pla. I can sometimes still smell pla now. Now Henriertta Lacks story is more about how horribly the establishment treated this young ladys family.
I want to see what effect all this has on your prints, how it affects warping, etc, and how humidity is affected by all this. This is all especially important to anyone who wants to print with materials that are sensitive to these things such as PVA, and if you end up needing to try the filaments more often as a result.
Honestly I didn't even think about Humidity in all of this. It's 74% humidity here right now, so basically I was like "screw it, I'm not going to try, I'm going to prioritize air quality and protecting my LUNGS over protecting my filament." Print quality has been fine on my open printers, but again, it's 33 celsius here... i think it would be very different if it were 8!
Humidity affects a lot more than just your filaments. Organic macro particles get coated by a layer of water and become heavier, harder to move around and exponentially more prone to aggregate or to be weighted down to the bottom air layer of the room and to the dust. Try placing the sensor on a high table one day and on the floor the next. The difference is clear @@thenextlayer
Any thought of supplementing your Dreo with a dust collector? Woodworkers use them to help keep PM2.5 levels down when sanding, sawing ,etc. It would probably extend the life of your Dreo's filters.
Hi! That white little air quality tester I see on your video often comes with faking HCHO and TVOC sensor. It may actually not have them inside (I disassembled it and checked mine). Instead the HCHO and TVOC values seemingly depend on current CO2 value. You may want to check yours...
Depending on size, orientation, airflow dynamics, and volume of material passed through it, an activated carbon filter with a HEPA prefilter lasts somewhere between 2 weeks (heavy use) and 1 year. Moderate daily use will reduce the life expectancy of the filter to 1 to 3 months. You really need monitoring devices to determine how long the filter remains effective at eliminating particles.
@@Mad_Catter_ No they would not. i.e. aroma marketing attracts people to shops in the mall by spreading VOCs. People visit places with eucalyptus to smell it and find it healthy,
Very well done. I think I'm going to look into an air purifier, too, and rethink where I do it, which is currently a ground floor that I don't like leaving the window open.
Great video. I don't do any sanding/glueing/building in my room. That all happens in the garage (I know I am blessed to have that option). I do almost entirely FDM PLA printing, but still want to migrate them to my basement at some point.
That's a great idea. Do that + add some webcams and you're good. Just don't forget to ventilate / circulate / filter in the basement, because you don't want all that stuff building up so much.
Good points were "Even with BentoBox and such you don´t know if the air quality is good enough inside" this shows to me how important it is to increase the filtering action of the bento boxes by installing for instance a 5015 fan or similar, increasing the filter surface with a bigger filter and so on. I should err on the more clean side, because those little solutions can clean the air pretty well but it takes hours in some cases since they can´t usually speaking not keep up with the emissions while the printer is running.
Some of the Nevermore filters have VOC sensors integrated (on both sides) to indicate when the filters need changing. You can probably add an indicator (if they haven't already) for clean air.
@@sierraecho884 Yeah, the sensor does nothing to air quality, it just measures VOC concentration before and after the filter, and it should be pretty easy to program a cheap RGB indicator light with different colors for when it detects - clean inlet air (safe to open enclosure) - high VOC inlet air (don't open the enclosure yet) - high VOC outlet air (saturated carbon filter)
@@reddragonflyxx657 Still would take hours before you can open the door with those small filters and you still would have to change the filter material once per month. At least. And now you need those sensors, and wiring, and all that crap.
You need lot of circulation combined with HEPA+Activated Charcoal (for reducing small particles+chemical absorption) + UV activated TiO2 catalyst( to breakdown vocs). Also need electrostatic filtering for reducing PM2.5 count. It is better to have recirculation controlled by remote timers, than moving fresh air + exhausing pollutants for 3d printing(both resin, FDM) to extend life of filters and to limit exposure. Fresh ventillation and exhaust with inline charcoal filtering may be the only best option for laser cutters and engravers. Just some 💭♥️👍
Whoa. You're blowing my mind. I haven't heard of TiO2... or electrostatic filtering. I have a lot to learn. Where can I learn more of this without going to night school or getting a degree in it?
@@thenextlayer Actually, some HEPA units of the past came with builtin UV TiO2 catalyst(produces ozone and helps breakdown VOCs). There were also some TiO2 bulbs to remove bad odor. May be it is not that economical to add that option to HEPA units. Also the electrostatic filtering is unique in that, it uses a high voltage wire(s) to electrically charge the dust particles, which then get collected on an opposite charged paper or plates. The short comings being need for circulating air, reduced capacity(if larger particles are present), and generation of residual ozone(lung irritant). There has been atleast one consumer unit(with a single wire and a replaceable vellum like paper), and honeywell units for hvac filtering that uses plates, willneed cleaning in a dish washer. I've been using these for a while, along with many hepa units with long life filters (similar to sharp plasma clusters) running 24x7, spread out in living/bedroom areas. You can easily observe the effects of 3d printing on people with sensitive lung conditions, even without any air quality monitoring. I even developed a portable personal ventillator for that purpose. It has been the result of continued research on moving to a home with recirculating hvac(primarily all of U.S. homes). Also, if you have an unfinished attic, it could benefit to exhaust the fumes(not the laser kind, which needs exhaust to outside after charcoal filtering), safely through a wall mounted exhaust fan into the attic area.
I'm getting ready to set up my printer space. I plan on setting up a fume hood that will have a tee and dampers. I plan to have an activated carbon filter that can recirculate the air in the room and then adjust the dampers to vent outside, and a hole in the wall down low to let in clean air. Since I'll have an AC in the room I want to be able to circulate the air in the room and not just blow it all out and bring in new hot humid air. I might throw a HEPA filter in too. My resin printer, my new X1C and my IPA station will be under the hood.
Sucking the air out of a window (or even a dedicated hole with a dryer vent on the outside) by using a bounce house fan (and printing adapters to match dryer hose etc that are flanged to mate with the blower) will move a lot of air. I use those fans and carpet dryer fans to ventilate my shop when welding and they are aggressive. No need to filter what you completely remove.
@@thenextlayerthe house grade ERVs/HRVs are expensive. Maybe it is time for an open source hardware version that’s closer to the DIY air filters that woodworkers use. Focus would be on exhausting the PM2.5 + VOCs and trying to condition the incoming air to remove humidity and filter it a little. Doesn’t need to be perfect.
@@thenextlayerA ERV/HRV is a fresh air filtration and ventilation device that is pretty basic at its core. It's two fans with a heat exchanger core. One fan pulls air from the outside through the heat exchanger and a filter while the other fan exhausts the indoor air through the heat exchanger to the outside. This gives you a constant flow of filtered fresh air so that you aren't adding particulates to your indoor environment and the heat exchanger core helps to temper the incoming air so that you aren't bringing in hot air in the summer or cold air in the winter.
So at least in the US the whole house units can be a few thousand for the unit plus labor and materials depending on your setup. But there are some that are more of a single room version that is somewhat like a bathroom fan that is in the 400-600 dollar range, and could maybe be diy depending on how handy you are. That might be a good small workshop size and give a good air exchange and filtering system without needing a remodel for a whole house system.
In Canada, or at least in Alberta, weather reports now routinely include the Air Quality Health Index number. Everyone who's endured this past summer where basically every forest in the country caught fire is well aware that the outside air might be awful... Anyway, I don't know if a similar resource is available elsewhere, but if practical, checking on the local outside air quality can help make decisions about ventilation - and potentially projects. There where a few days this summer where I just shut down my 3d printer because the smoke was so bad outside I didn't want the vent fan running.
Damn, that's a good idea, too. I didn't even THINK to check the air quality index of my city, and yet, I checked it all the time when I was in China... I'm learning so much just from the comments of this video and the discussions I'm having here... I'm really glad I did this video :)
On my Lathe i have a suction tube that sucks the light dust away and dumps it in a filtered box, I was going to try it on the enclosed printer but then keeping it hot in there becomes a nightmare as that thing moves alot of air. Then i thought about recirculating the air through a carbon or panel filter but that would be hurricane force drafts with that air shifter, I Think this would be the best option but on a smaller scale. Just means spending more money. But, Health wins over money. Stay safe.
Great video! Air quality is recently a problem I have taken on for my setup which I recently enclosed. I print a ton of ASA, and thought I better start to take counter measures to potential pollutants. In my enclosure, I have a fresh air intake to bring cool outside air into the chamber. I also have a speed controlled (controlled by temperature inside the enclosure) exhaust fan paired with a 3 stage Hepa/carbon filter that for now vents to the room. I have been considering recirculating the exhaust into the chamber to conserve heat allow multiple passes through the filter. For now, I just have a 3-stage room air cleaner sitting on the exhaust side of my enclosure. it does seem to make a difference in the "dust" that had been settling on objects in the room before enclosing the printer. I can only assume though that the air quality is also better at this point as I do not have the tools to test that currently (next purchase).
In my garage currently have my ender 6 in a tent enclosure with an exhaust fan that goes to a rubbermade tub with some tiny holes drilled in the lid. I only print PLA and PETG. The particles are heavy enough that they just accumulate at the bottom and I just clean it up with a shop vac every 6 months and there's not that much. I make sure to clean the enclosure and the printer while wearing a respirator. My goal is to build a big enclosure made of plexiglass, silicone, rubber, and construction lumber and have a in-line fan in there to extract the air. That way I can have a decent space for doing resins and epoxy. I live in a suburb of a big metro area, so it has its issues, and there is a bunch of pollen in the air almost year round, not to mention just general dust from living in the midwest. So I'll put in an air purifier or two to handle the cars and get a hookup for the shop vac to make working with it a little cleaner. Ultimately it is worth everyone's time to at least do a little bit to prevent themselves from breathing in more crap. You are never going to be able to avoid breathing in VoCs but you can limit your exposure on things that you can control.
I'm glad I live just north of Seattle. In my city, we have regulations about chopping down trees and looking just outside my townhouse I practically am in a forest. While I haven't measured the air quality, I'll bet it's far better than tel aviv. The city also requires on windy days for construction with lots of dust and particulate to be sprayed down with water. It also rains a lot in the non summer months, so particulates don't accumulate as much.
I have a fan blowing into the room, and a fan in the window blowing out. Fan into the room on low. Window fan on high. I can feel the flow go to the window. I'm also building a filter system. The printer will be relatively close to the window so it didn't have time to move elsewhere.
Not to mention that measuring '2.5' particles or 'VOCs' isn't really good enough to correlate to health effects, specifics matter, and we don't have specifics, even at the governmental lab level.
I discovered 3d printing just a few months ago and have been printing constantly with my new printer. I absolutely love it! Your videos have become my favorites and I'm trying to work thru watching all of them while staying current. I am writing my concerns, hopes, and well wishes for you and your family's safety with the new current attacks on your homeland. I hope that you are all okay and that you will be able to return to making your awesome videos soon!
This is a bit off topic...but those particulates will cover everything in your workspace, spread out to other areas via everyone that enters, and will be absorbed through the mouth, nose, and eyes, when you touch them. Attic fans would be great, here. They move a lot of air and have a great vent strategy. If possible, exhaust from the highest point in the "dirty space" and draw from the furthest and lowest part of the room. You should also use commercial air filters. If you run a business, you really need to use commercial solutions.
lol all you had to do was get a fan, exhaust tubing and vent it out the window. instead you got a bunch of fans to circulate the VOC in the room? I dont see how this is even remotely a good idea.
This was great! Thank you for shining a light on the possible issues with air quality and 3D printing. I've been wondering about this, and while I've moved our printer to a space that seems more ventilated, I'll be reassessing it now based on what you've discovered. Thanks for being so thorough!
Thanks! I actually don't think I was thorough ENOUGH - I wish I could've spent another month on this video... but I'm super glad it has at least opened people's eyes, and I hope I can do a follow-up video in the future :)
Your air purifier is significantly under sized for the room. You want to pay attention to ACH (Air Changes per Hour) of your air filter solution. The ideal for filtering PM2.5 is 5 ACH. Clean Air Kits or corsi rosenthal box are better options than the DREO air purifier.
I live on the side of a large boulevard, there are 3 vehicle workshops and 2 welding shops on my block, my 3D printer is the least of my worries when it comes to air pollution. Also my grandpa lived on the house besides mine for all of his adult life, was a heavy smoker and lived to the age of 94 so I'm not too worrryed either.
I live in Austin we are in cedar fever time, when the cedar trees bloom. The air quality drops everywhere here down during this time. So moving unfiltered air into the house just is 😢 a no go. On the charcoal filter on your filter , when it shows that it not reducing the air as much than I would change all filters. check on how long it takes to drop on its cleaning, is it 1 week, 2 weeks #weeks or #months. After that based on that I would set up a plan on replacing the filters in stages, based on time and printer usage. If the printer is not being used or has just a few hours or days of print time than I would not change the filters inside the print. In the military this would be call a planned maintenance schedule or Pms check list. This could be done when you are doing Maintenance on your machines. Just having a filter inside the printer is useless unless you clean the inside of the printer and your work space. At the end of the you should do a work space cleaning and printer that have stopped printing for that day. A wipe down on the print that has ended use for that day would be huge on your reduce of VOC levels. Than at the end of the week clean all the outside of the areas of the printer.
Snap, this is good advice, I didn't even THINK about pollen when I talked about forests and such, but a few comments like yours (and yours obviously) have opened my eyes.
I just wanted to say my thoughts and prayers are with you my friend, I have been watching the news about the attack on Israel. I hope you and your family are well and safe.
The best solution wasn't mentioned. My wife really hit home with this.. bring IN nature. Lots of plants that have a high level of air purification for your home. The best purifiers are still an imitation at best, and while you will have to find them more space and water them, your air quality will be all the better for it.
I DO NOT recommend Dreo fans. They are extremely overpriced for what they do. I bought into the marketing and got one and they barely moved any air and they were not quiet when on high, which was the speed I had to use in order feel anything. A $17 Honeywell that looks like a Vornado copy put out WAY more air while only being slightly louder. Project Farm did a review of fans not too long ago, if you're interested in his recommendations.
You should filter the air coming IN the window, also my house has the highest level of air filters in the A/C system, and to top all that off, I use an IQ Air HyperHepa filter (Yeah, REALLY expensive, but I got mine at an auction!) in my bedroom, this is designed to filter out the air using 3 stages with the last one small enough to filter out viruses. Also, I if the air quality seems low, I can leave the central air unit running on fan (unless it is really hot outside, as that blows air through the ducts in the attic which can pick up heat/cool and raise your cooling/heating bills a lot.). And yeah, air outside can be nasty...
Hi, thanks for this first step in air quality vs. 3d printing. You are right to warn people about the potential impact an 3D printed on health. Following your video, I would like just to highlight two points: 1. This study is sensor limited to max 2.5nm and we have no idea about smaller VOCs quantities and health impacts. 2. The nature of the chemicals emitted during 3D printing is not considered. And as far as I know it's these chemicals that led to warming us that 3D printing ABS is more harmful that PLA for example. Performing a study to address point 2 will request a lot of resources because only gas chromatography is able to provide data. I have been wondering for a long time if enough people will be interested and ok to finance a real scientific study with a crowdfunding campaign considering filament materials, printer characteristics (enclosure, ventilation, filtering…)… What do you think?
One practice I never thought of when I'm first started using enclosed printers. You need to wear a N95 mask or better when you open the door up after its finished printing a print. The air when you open the door even if it is PLA it is full of micro/macro particles and other nasty stuff floating you don't want to breathe in.
I make sure my printers are quite well sealed, I run 2 x CleanAir filters in each printer, they run 60% speed during a print, and after the print they run 100% for 5 minutes, I have used a air quality tester, and this seems to be enough to flush everything when printing with ABS, but you should absolutely be exhausting air out of the environment and allowing fresh air to come in.
@@UdreamWeprint Yes agree on that, I'm quite fortunate though, as this is not the case where I live in Australia, constant clean ocean breeze and fresh country air is plentiful.
LMAO, yeah. People can do what they want. I'm never going to tell anybody else what to do, but for myself I've had zero issues by simply keeping my printers in the closet. Even resin doesn't bother me.
I cannot wait till I have my new workshop. Having a separate room for my printers will be amazing for keeping myself from being poisoned by my printers.
I could have missed it, but did you run a control experiment/test?? If not, you cannot be certain that your observed decrease in air quality within the data is directly correlated to 3D printing, filament drying, soldering and etc. For example, the observed decrease in air quality could just as plausibly be caused by urban-related air pollution.
I've also been down the rabbit hole of air quality for VOC's from 3D printing and smoke with pollution (wildfires in my area). I think there is a critical thing people miss with particle count on air purifiers like the Dreo and any PM 2.5 meters. PM 2.5 is measured in µm (micrometer), VOC's in some publications with FDM printing are measured in nanometers. I've read a couple of them in the past and a lot of VOC's for plastic like ABS, PETG and others would be around 25 -100 nm in size which is 0.02 - 0.1 micrometer, far under PM2.5 capable measurement range. Also a bladed fan like the Dreo in the video only pushes 375cfm and there is very little static pressure especially when it reaches the window. I use a 900cfm B-AIR VP-25 with a custom 12" duct, but there are many squirrel cage style blower fans that would be smarter to use with a flexible duct. I think setting up a blower fan at one side of the room and running a duct across the room to a window and sealing the duct to the fan and window is best as long as your house has some air leakage which most do and that means there will be positive airflow into that room. You could always crack open a window in another room and the static pressure will pull air from there. The bigger the better for CFM when having a lot of printing or VOC's I think. What I've learned is my PM2.5 meters are fine to gauge the air quality for wood working and also wildfire and any outdoor pollution because with those applications there is a wide variety of particle sizes so as they all increase or dissipate and you can see from the larger particles whats happening. If you want to test your room to see what's how its working after setting up a fan system you can use a smoke test, try and fill the room and see how long it takes to filter it to clear again. You may discover that placing the fan in a different area will be more effective but keep in mind a windy day outside might limit or increase airflow as it will overcome some of the fans static pressure.
In air PM refers to solid or liquid particles, while VOC refers to gas. Methane is a VOC, as is Sarin. Both are colourless, odorless gases. The former is non-toxic enough that I wouldn't be surprised if 80% methane/20% oxygen (800,000 ppmv VOC) was breathable. The latter has an IDLH of 0.1 mg/m³ (which is ~17.4 ppbv if I did my math correctly). It *really* matters what the VOCs are, far more than their total concentration.
@@reddragonflyxx657 That makes sense. I was basing my comments on the nm measurement and comparing it to the PM 2.5 just for a size reference to the video. All the articles I've read on VOC's with 3D printing are in nanometers. It's a grey area for me as nothing is completely clear of how harmful some of the VOC's are with certain printed materials Gases seem to linger for a long time. For example any paint thinner fumes I can smell for hours if I dont have a proper ventilation fan in a well sealed room. I think the smarter thing to do is understand the room ventilation and know for sure all air is exchanging quickly.
Relieved to see a new video. An interesting fact about carbon is that you need to use the correct type, rated for VOC removal. The best type is coconut based activated charcoal with a 4-8 screen mesh size. It should say VOC rated right on the package. I opened up the charcoal in my X1C and it was simple aquarium grade carbon. Change it out immediately.
@@NaggglThe bottom line is that you can't tell. There is one brand on the market that sells the correct type of carbon. I believe it is called Evermore or Nevermore. It's often sold along with the Bento Box 3D printed parts. You can also buy the bags separately.
The table saw is one of the worst things to use in a closed room. The amount of particulates that puts out is crazy. In my back room, I open 4 windows and run fans if I'm running a saw, sander, or planer One of the big takes I got on this, was that if I'm printing with pla in my basement and I don't do any other processing or anything, I should be fine. The basement is open to the stairs to the top floor and it's open around the stairs too. The house is 2400 sq ft, so the total air space is pretty big. Eventually I'll be moving the printer to the back room and when I do, I'll set up ventilation for it.
As a medical doctor very interested in air quality and specifically how it is impacted by 3-D printers (fused-filament fabrication and the even more toxic resin printers), it’s good to see someone investigate this issue that is unconscionably swept under the rug by most of the foremost 3-D printing TH-cam stars. This one gets some things correct but too much wrong, perhaps bending over backwards to help DREO sell fans. The one featured in this show is simply inadequate for the purpose. Contrary to what Mr. The Next Layer (sorry, I don’t know his name) suggested, it should not take hours or overnight to clear the air in a room; such abysmal performance results from using the wrong fan and the wrong approach to evacuating air. A good design could clear a room in a minute; an excellent design could clear it in seconds and - crucially - safeguard room occupants juxtaposed to active 3-D printers. Another mistake he makes is apparently assuming the consumer-grade air quality sensors he uses represent valid data. In reality, they miss the smallest and most dangerous nanoparticles, which are poorly removed by most filters. One needs to read and understand their technical data sheets, not blindly assume that filters adequate for ordinary household air sufficiently mitigate the hazards generated by 3-D printers. If you live in a populated area, another mistake is venting outside without first thoroughly filtering the air because some of the exhaust air will inevitably be inhaled by neighbors (through open windows, being outside, and because no building is hermetically sealed: outside air and its contaminants inevitably wick inside). Legislators are commonly oblivious to this risk. If you take five minutes off the life of a cancer patient doomed to die in the next hour, you would likely be prosecuted and convicted of murder. Yet you will almost certainly get off scot-free if you take years off the lives of neighbors by polluting their air with 3-D printer emissions or those from wood-burning fireplaces and stoves - part of the price we pay for being led by scientifically illiterate people who, relevant to this matter, also permit 3-D printers to be freely sold without adequate warnings and with the 3-D printing industry free of regulation, permitting it to pretend that its products are not toxic. But they are, and Mr. The Next Layer realizes this, so kudos to him for addressing it.
"Let fresh air in" is the step a lot of folks seem to skip. And I admit, I'm appalled by the number of people who think 3d Gloop is safe. Anything that can dissolve PETG is very, very not safe, and probably a controlled substance in California. Use a respirator! My last thought is this: large numbers of people having hobby level 3d printers is something that's been around a fairly short time. We have no idea what the long-term health effects of being around these machines will be. I know that even printing PLA is enough to set off my asthma and yes, having asthma means I'll react to air quality that other folks find just fine - but it also means there's *something* present to react to. Anyone who keeps a working 3d printer in a room they spend a lot of time in is, at the very least, inhaling some quantity of microparticle plastics and that can't be good for you.
A lot of really good points here. I don't want to denigrate GLOOP! because they do put warnings all over the packaging, but you're right, most people do not heed them!
From those floor shots, it looks like you have a particulate issue at least as heavy as any VOC issue :). I'm lucky enough to live in that mystical, enchanted meadow called the Mountains of N Alabama, but I still use air circulation and filtration for my FDM and Resin printing environment.
Thanks to DREO for sponsoring this important discussion! Go to bit.ly/46rTY0D and get a fantastic deal when you buy a DREO air-circulation unit.
Now I want to see what effect all this has on your prints, how it affects warping, etc, and how humidity is affected by all this. This is all especially important to anyone who wants to print with materials that are sensitive to these things such as PVA.
My suggestion is to not think of it as multiple passes through a filter (or even dead spaces), but rather you are dripping warm water into a cold bathtub. It is going to take quite a while for the filtered air (warm water) fills any portion of the room. Perhaps there are additional forces at play with the fan, meaning that it's possible the fan is pushing air that is around the fan (and not only the air that is going through the filtration). An example of this is a guy trying to blow up something, but he blows much more as he backs away from the nozzle. Perhaps this is how that fan cylinder might play into the filtration ecosystem.
What's the air quality sensor you're using? Have you found it works okay?
Support Apple not just google.
Yaye DREO!
As someone who does work as a researcher with 3D printers, I agree with the majority of your points but there are two things missing. An explanation of what air you think of as safe or problematic to reference back to and the best advice when it comes to working with macro particles.
The problems with polluted air that has a high concentration of macro particles really make an impact when you both have long exposure to this air *and* when you do not ventilate your own lungs. Going out to nature\ jogging a couple of times a week or even getting back home by foot makes a drastic difference and should have been the highest recommended tip of this great video
Wow. that's something I never heard of. Good to know. I somehow thought, that all particles are kind of like asbestos. once inside lungs, they;re there.
im pretty sure this video is just a big ad for those dreo fans and needed some way to plug it
There is a far far more important part he is missing. Not all VOCs are harmful to breath. A VOC (Volatile Organic Compound) is defined as a type of organic chemical that has a high vapor pressure at room temperature, which means it can easily evaporate into the air. Alcohol is a VOC, specifically ethanol, the kind you drink, and it is generally not not harmful to breath. The only measurements he has are for VOCs and not the actual chemicals like the toxic styrene gas created during abs printing. If what we really care about is the toxic particles, why mention VOCs? Because something that can detect and measure VOCs is like $50 and something that can do that with styrene gas costs around $5,000.
Enclosing your printers in a compact space, and having a direct vent to the outside, so that you only have to circulate air through the
This entire test fundamentally ignores the fact that VOC quantity is far less of a concern than WHAT VOCs are in the air.
Nah mate, didn't you hear him, you don't have to worry about ABS now. 🤣
He's not a scientist or any sort of expert, he's a salesman
@@anthonykgarland How do you block a channel? As far as I know that's not possible, but what do I know. Hope I'm wrong there are a lot of channels I'd like to block so I'd never see them again. Like PC tech rumor channels. "the 8900xtx will destroy nvidia, the 8900xtx is cancelled, then the 8900xtx will destroy nvidia in a later video again even if it was cancelled a few videos ago".
@@anthonykgarlandChrist almighty... The topic is complex enough for several PHDs, maybe cut a guy some slack when even studies are hard pressed to actually quantify issues.
The conclusion of the test is literally that he is now going for a full air exchange first and filtration second. Which is exactly because the VOCs are more dangerous than what's outside...
I use Indoor Plant tents with fumigation holes for enclosures for my 3d printers. Then I can use exhaust fans and carbon filters and pump the air directly outside. I wear my mask with appropriate filters whenever the enclosures are open. Videos like this are important to bring this to more 3d printers attentions as this is not something people are being told about when they are buying these printers most of the time. Especially if they just buy from amazon.
Can I just ask why you still use carbon filters if you're immiedietly pumping the air outside anyways? Is it just to avoid residual stuff once you open the enclosure?
@@johannd1100 First floor window and homes in close proximity, using the filter to keep the smell down and yes, it also helps keep the residual smell in the enclosure down.
Ahah awesome I have the same thing sitting ins storage I was wondering if it’s air tight enough for this 🤙🏼 Thank you
As a scale modeler who is starting to get into 3d printing - I deal with a lot of fumes from modelling glues and paints, etc., and another thing that can help with things like soldering and painting and gluing is an airbrush booth that has a fan and an exhaust hose to a window. If you've not used one before it's great for the hands-on detailed work with VOCs and I highly recommend trying one of those as well. I use it not just for airbrushing, but for gluing and sanding and everything else. Hope it helps!
Me having my printer in my room seeing the intro of this video 😬
Me: continue printing and soldering as usual ans slowly die from cancer 🤣. More seriously, man this is a hard problem to solve when living in an apartment. Also me living in Finland doesn't make it any easier, with our cold winters...
@@Iisakki3000 I understand and I also have a soldering station🤣. I am in college so I don't have much choice too. We die but die happy with 3d printers xD
@@Iisakki3000edit: carbon filters might not be enough ...
if y'all have access to carbon filters, you can use a PC fan to make a fume extractor. With a 3d printer, you can make a moving arm to point this where you want to suck.
@@Iisakki3000 Opening a window seems like a "tempered climate"-comment. 😅
Try looking for air scrubbers. They have both HEPA-(for PM) and active coal-(for VOC) filters.
@@rafael.b.almeida For soldering i personally usr lead free solder but the fumes are still bad for you even when no lead in there and since i don't usr fume hood of at least a fan to take those fumes away i usually hold my nose closed while soldering so i don't really breath as much fumes in
As I have learned from growing "Tomatoes" that air flow/circulation/new air, are not the same thing. You need ALL.
Thanks, that confirms my findings :)
@@thenextlayer Great video, I have been enjoying your channel a lot!
Minor/major detail
Formaldehyde is a nearly colorless, highly irritating gas with a sharp odor. It dissolves easily in water and is found in formalin (a solution of formaldehyde, water, and methanol). Formaldehyde is used in the manufacture of plastics; urea-formaldehyde foam insulation; and resins used to make construction materials (e.g., plywood), paper, carpets, textiles, paint, and furniture. OSHA PEL (permissible exposure limit) = 0.75 ppm (averaged over an 8-hour work shift)
OSHA STEL (short-term exposure limit) = 2 ppm (15 minute exposure)
NIOSH IDLH (immediately dangerous to life or health) = 20 ppm
Formaldehyde is a nearly colorless gas with a pungent, irritating odor even at very low concentrations (below 1 ppm). Its vapors are flammable and explosive. Because the pure gas tends to polymerize, it is commonly used and stored in solution. Formalin, the aqueous solution of formaldehyde (30% to 50% formaldehyde), typically contains up to 15% methanol as a stabilizer.
"fresh air in the bottom junk out the top" is the recommendations standard but PPM don't mean squat unless you know what your measuring for! you measured up to 6000 PPM and formaldehyde as an example is dangerous at 2-3 ppm not 6000 PPM
industrial air exchanges in higher VOC areas should be 3:1 at minimum
MSDS sheets should be included/some require a request in the the supply of each material and simply follow the safety in section 4 MATERIAL SAFTEY DATA SHEETS
Wow. Thanks for this good stuff.
I'm not an expert but what the hell is buying a bunch of tiny fans to move air around the room going to do for removing pollutants? First it should be obvious that physics dictates that bigger fans move more air. I seriously doubt those tiny Bento Boxes have any appreciable effect. Have you seen how large and heavy the carbon filters are in e.g. cannabis grow rooms? They need fans to draw air through it in order to work. Like imagine if a smoker doesn't blow air through a Smokebuddy carbon filter, but blows all the smoke into the room, and then wait for the air to magically circulate back into the filter. That's basically what you're doing in this video. Those enclosed 3D printers aren't airtight, and I'm pretty sure there's more pressure for the air to escape that box than to be pulled into a tiny filter that's not connected to anything.
Yeah, to put it nicely, this is obviously not a very brilliant approach.
As a professional whose works in advanced composite material shops in aviation I can tell you we use about a and that's just for cooling. Seriously all of this stuff should probably technically have downdraft tables and vent hoods from the word go.
Beyond that you should be wearing a full-face mask I don't know why you would think like oh and just take my mask off cuz it's so convenient but go ahead and do that all you want just know that it's in no way safe. The entire environment needs to be completely and continuously circulated and a couple fans here and there are going to do next to nothing aside from maybe get you a sponsor.
Seriously I kind of don't know why I watched this it's a bit of a joke.
Just look at the grow room fans.They have to exhaust to grow fast.
I purchased a forced air purifier designed for circulating a small house for my workspace, and that can barely keep up with my space. But he is definitely right that the printers are the least of your problems; for just FDM printing, a small fan and an open window keeps the quality high enough that my purifier rarely turns on.
Soldering and sanding are the big ones for me (I imagine laser work is even worse), and for that I have to run a downdraft table that vents directly outside, even then the purifier runs at full blast to keep AQ above 70%.
The resin printing airborne VOC is HIGHLY dependent on which resin I use; some barely kick out anything, and others quickly get AQ into the danger zone. I've noticed the flexible resins tend to be the worst, while the water washable ones tend to be the best. Here's me wishing I'd paid more attention in organic chemistry class.
It honestly just feels like a gimmick to sell the fans.
The Bento Boxes work really well. Tests have shown they eliminate VOCs nearly entirely (there was another TH-cam video on this that did a great job in a test situation). The Bento Box is designed for a closed box printer, not one that is open.
Even those of us that live in the country can't just open a window all year round. I live in midland Sweden and winter is coming. Not going to open a window or door when it's -15º outside.
There is a way to deal with it, but knowing you guys in EU with your eco and efficiency craze, you probably not gonna like it...
You see, one can use something like a radiant kerosene burner to heat your working room and it requires by design that you'll have that window open to avoid things like carbon monoxide poisoning etc. There are other options like diesel heater (that are designed for autonomous van-house kind of thing... you know those american houses on the wheels stuff) which are kind of overpowered (4-8kW) for a small room and that's exactly how you keep it warm. You just use that and open the window (not that they dump exhaust in your room, they have a pipe to put it outside through a hole in a wall).
That sure is wasting some energy but believe me, active filtering and then replacing filters, checking filters condition, buying new ones, using automatic purifiers like in this video and a bunch of other things are much more expensive than just heating your room a bit more and venting it during the cold season.
The key is to have a really tiny room where you do this, then you won't waste too much energy. Also I would rely more on infrared heating (like those kerosene ones provide) than convection through air (like deasel heaters do). It is probably more efficient to heat solid surfaces instead of the air that is being circulated anyway and would carry your heat away just like that.
Of course there are more refined solutions like vent systems with automated air filtering + air preheating or cooling down for the summer and what not, but they are probably constly (obvisouly those are for businesess, not for hobbyists) and may not be available everywhere you may want them.
@@user-qn6kb7gr1d They might have more efficient heating systems up there.
The go-to solution should be extracting the air through a one way tube, as shown at 11:00.
You make a hole in the wall, insulate it, then connect the extension
@@LollosoSiTV if heating is the main concern, I believe the go-to solution should be (not are yet) those split system heat pumps with filtered fresh air intake.
No idea why it's not a widespread thing.
Modern 3d printers usually have a vent and a reasonably well insulated chamber. So there should be not need to pollute everything in the room, those pipes can be connected just to those vents in the chamber and air dumped out through it only when it is reasonable (no reason to do that during the entire printing process in a well insulated chamber).
I’m Canadian and umm I open windows in the winter all the time…. I can’t stand stagnant air and well I hate being in 22c and up as a rule…. I’m a bit crazy that way. I tend to open the upstairs windows more since the cold air drops to the basement.
This is such a great topic. The biggest effect on air exchange by a duct or a fan in short amounts of time is achieved by pushing clean air in rather than sucking air out. Extraction is typically limited to only helping a very small portion of the total volume of a room (about 1 diameter of the duct's distance from the opening at the end of the duct/fan). With suction, the remainder of the air remains stagnant or in a circular flow that doesn't make it out of the room. The induction of air method (i.e. pushing air into a room) is far more effective but still runs into air currets limiting exchanging air which is why it has to be carefully designed in industrial/commercial applications. Its really effective a 4ish duct diameter distance but then drops off quickly. The random oscillating fan you had is way more effective because it creates more than a single axis for air current which allows for.the room air to move much more and speeding up the exchange of the whole volume of the room.
Your best bet is to have local extraction hose at the source of each contaminating operation that dumps to the exterior (think wood working dust extraction systems). Then have a filtered supply of fresh air blowing into the room feeding into the room at one corner/end with an opening "exhaust" vent at the opposite end of the space. The oscillating fans will then help mix that stream of air crossing the room from the supply duct source.
Thanks for making this video because it's very counter intuitive how air moves but just drop food coloring into water and see what path the coloring takes to mix to get an idea
i am genuinely amazed by how far down i had to scroll before anyone mentioned pressure. the best, bar none, solution to VOCs, 2.5ppm, and anything else, is negative pressure. any 3D printer put in an enclosure should have an exhaust system that puts the entire machine in negative pressure. this means that air cannot and will not flow out of the enclosure. it will only leave via the exhaust, which you can vent directly outside, preventing it from entering your workspace in the first place. for things like soldering, chemistry has you covered with things called "fume hoods". they're enclosures that put everything placed inside them under the same negative pressure environment. nothing can leave the enclosure without going through the exhaust system. how negative of a pressure you need (practically, this means how strong the suction is) depends on what you're doing. with an enclosure like was shown in the video with the filter under the print bed, you don't need it to be that negative, or that big of a pressure difference, while the doors are closed. if you want to maintain the negative pressure while the doors are open, you need to increase the difference quite a bit, but this will introduce new noise and other problems, especially if you want your chamber to be heated.
realistically, the only option i can think of for heated chambers is to have a dedicated intake for the printer which passes the air through a heater (a DIY option would likely be a simple hair dryer or heat gun if you wanna go with more control). this way you can have the chamber still be heated, while also being able to directly vent the air outside.
Most homes don't filter the incoming air, they often use reverse air flow through the kitchen vents! I added an external vent with 20 inch high rating and another carbon filter after that and my meters can even detect any pollution, so they filters work.
I pressurize the house lightly with the incoming fan. Then my workshop has a wind exhaust with a fan outside to muffle the noise. It clears pretty fast, a few hours, and you can keep it on, though you might want to add a heat recover unit.
Ideally you would use vent hoods and downdraft tables for all of it and then you would wear respirator whenever in the environment. Then you perform regular industrial hygiene surveys. Anything less is a half-measure.
I have a P1S and have printed a hood with magnetic fasteners, this attaches over the outlet on the back of the printer, and connects to a 2” duct about 15” long. This is routed through the wall of my study, and has a 3 flap cover on the outside wall. I have also removed the activated carbon filter, as it is no longer required, and restricts the flow.
When the printer is running the fumes inside the P1S are vented directly outside, and the printer operates in exactly the same way.
I was waiting for PLA is more toxic than ABS but i was mislead. My takeaway from this is if you print in an enclosed space it's pretty much just going to give you the same air quality as a city
I started printing back in 2012, the first week I noticed the ABS filament was intolerable indoors and sent it to my garage. My 3D printers have sat in a sealed closet with HEPA filter running since bring them back in
I've always thought it was a false sense of safety when I started seeing "filtered" enclosed 3D printers, when they do a single pass and pump the air straight out into the environment
When you say out into the environment, do you mean the room or out through a hose at a window? I am trying to be very conscious of this problem, and so I'm getting an enclosure. The only problem is the enclosure that I needed doesn't come with a fan vent, so I'm going to cut one in it and stick a computer fan in it, with about a 1m pipe to a window.
@@arc5015 I just copy a other comment from this comment section you better consider:
@kevinmitchell3168 said:
Mixing up air IS A BAD IDEA! You need slow moving air flowing across the work space with fresh air being introduced where people are working, and being exhausted out on the other side of the pollution source. This is typically done with a fan pulling fresh air from outside and blowing it into a long fabric duct that has tiny holes in it to evenly introduce it throughout the entire area. The goal is to SLOWLY introduce fresh air. Then inside the print chamber, or the back side of a work bench, away from where people will be, you have the exhausted ducts. The amount of air going out should be slightly higher than the incoming so it creates a slightly negative pressure in the room and prevents polluted air from escaping into the rest of the building. You don't want fast moving air that will mix up the pollutants in the breathing area. This type of setup allows for slow air exchange and FAR less wasted energy. Filaments and printers need to be in climate controlled areas. This allows you to add a heater and/or air conditioner to the incoming duct (aka makeup unit), keeping the entire space climate controlled. You only need just enough air to ensure the polluted air is flowing away from the working area to the outside.
I got this information from a US military report where they tested air quality in hundreds of facilities with harsh chemical environments. Their finding was that the number one cause of poor air quality was fans blowing air around and mixing it up.
I had a polarized media air cleaner installed on my HVAC system which has not only removed a lot of the visible household dust, but it also is rated and tested to remove VOCs.
Which one did you install? Was in installed in your printer room or inside the printer itself?
@@EnchiladaBro it’s a PremierOne P6100 whole house filter.
With regard to gaps in enclosures, the way most designs mitigate that is via negative pressure: The fan sucks air out of the enclosure and exhausts it via a filter. As a result the airflow through all other paths should be mostly into the enclosure rather than out. Where this gets tricky is when you use closed-loop filtration systems like the ones sold by PrintedSolid. In that case there is no "net suction" from the enclosure, and bad stuff can leak out of all of the other openings in the enclosure.
I think that your point about the relative harmlessness of printing well-dried ABS/ASA is valid.
I found regular use of a robot vacuum cut down the dust levels more than anything else and when I moved to a higher elevation, the outdoor air quality improved dramatically and it became clear that if you’re in the bottom of the valley, especially near a city or farming, the dust settles to the bottom so just few hundred feet of elevation can make all a difference in air quality
Man as an artist I have had lectures on why / basics of avoiding killing yourself via solvents and pigment poisoning. The whole lack of solid info on how / what causes issues has had me very nervous about buying a 3D printer (especially any resin based ones).
I have a house rule that nail polish / acetone must be done ideally outside if not the patio entrance door way is wide open.
So many glues and polishes are super dangerous to breathe in.
Thank you for the information even if you didn’t follow scientific methods. ❤
I would echo the earlier comments. I did research for the U.S. Army for a few years. 1 micron to .1 micron are much more likely to lodge deep in your lungs than 2.5. Your lungs don't have a mechanism to sweep out these small particles. They do for the larger ones as long as you haven't damaged them with smoking. I'm only running one printer so putting it in an enclosure and connecting it to a window with a dryer vent and 120mm fan was a fool-proof solution. The fan pulls enough air out of the enclosure to keep the printer from overheating. The whole setup was under $100 US. You and your family only get one set of lungs.
What about exhaust hoods? I’m sure you could easily design an exhaust hood to go over top of your printers. I’d use it for both enclosed and open printers to try and suck up the air from those spaces. You can throw in a computer fan in the inlet and then have the hose dump it out a window.
There’s some things anybody can learn as soon as you see it with your own eyes so here’s something I learned that was an eye-opener. I was playing with air filtration and to check it. I would turn off all the lights at night and use a very bright LED, which allows you to see airborne particles With extreme clarity what I learned was the unused closed room that nobody had been in or even walk-through for hours had the cleanest air simply walking through a room turns up dust, but running an air filter keeps the entire room turned with super fine. Dust! Any fan never lets the rest of it settle! VOC’s that’s a different story yeah I know carbon works great but without a VOC meter as you pointed out, it would be useless. Very good point.
THANK YOU!!! I respect the makers who equally value healthy solutions while making cool stuff. We the "followers" of all this social media content should also be hearing what content creators are doing to stay safe. Appreciate to balance between creativity and safety conscious. Thanks for raising this issue up and highlighting the importance.
How to build a car spray paint booth in your house.
Watching these videos helped me understand pressure and flow in order to move the contaminated air out of your space. A 30" window fan was sufficient.
30" is HUGE! I would hope so!!
Thanks for the research. I just got my first printer and was wondering about air quality. And thanks for the reminder of why we moved from the middle of Los Angeles to the mountains of New Mexico, surrounded by pine trees and chirping birds :) However, I still need to figure out ventilation for the winter months when it's too cold to leave the windows open.
I recently had my first baby and ive been trying to take air quality in our home a lot more seriously for his sake. I keep my makers space in a separate room where i have added an air purifier an exhaust fan for my resin printer and I always have a window open so i can get some fresh air. I will be purchasing one of these dreo fans as the data clearly shows that it does a good job at circulating the air. Thank you for the video! It was just what i was looking for.
Nice. You’re gonna be a great dad… put the kids and their health first!
The fumes were the reason why I moved the printer in the garage, I was mostly printing PETG but even printing PETG cause a nasty air!
I’m so grateful to have found these health conscious videos before getting my first 3D printer 🙏
I bought a broken gas station fridge that's 30"x30" on the outside, Made a shelf with a drawer in it, and printed some Lack enclosure hepa filtered fan housings. As well as a small recirculating hepa fan. I've never tested the air quality in that room, but im sure it's OK.
I guess I am very lucky. I live in the woods in Northern Michigan with excellant air quality. But, this has given me much to think about as we head into WINTER and closed air flow homes.
I can pollute the entire room in about 5 minutes after eating a bowl or two of the wife’s chili.
Yeah you get nasty VOC emissions after chili! 🤣
I'm surprised you didn't know that workshop spaces are so polluted. Every serious factory have to monitor the air quality on a daily basis and even have those monitor kits that they are putting on workers once in a while to get accurate data. The government even regulate it.
I'm strongly advising every workshop worker / makers to put mask with quality filters.
Still great video! Keep doing your thing!
I had no idea about that... wow! I don't have an engineering or manufacturing background, and I've never worked in a company that wasn't internet-related, so yeah, this is all new to me. Thanks for sharing. I wonder what kind of sensors etc they use... it would be good to pick some of those up for each of the rooms of my work-space
I got very sick after getting into printing ABS. I got really good at it, so I had my printer going almost 24/7, it was in an enclosure, but not ventilated. It took me 3 months after I stopped all 3d printing to get better to the point my doctor was not concerned any more. Since then my printer has been in an enclosure that vents to the outside via a 4" duct and a very slow moving 80mm fan. Now that I ordered a Bambu P1S, I will design a way to route the air from the enclosure to the outside via that same duct. I am still scared to print ABS / ASA just because the smell of the filament triggers horrible memories. But I'll figure out.
@@killdozer3464 I have a P1S and have printed a hood with magnetic fasteners, this attaches over the outlet on the back of the printer and connects to a 2” duct about 15” long. This is routed through the wall of my study, it has a 3 flap cover on the outside wall. I have also removed the activated carbon filter, as it is no longer required, and restricts the flow.
When the printer is running the fumes inside the P1S are vented directly outside, and the printer operates in exactly the same way.
Even just raising awareness of this problem is a GOOD thing, thank you for making this video. I'm going to move my printer to the garage on the weekend now. Don't listen to the wankers claiming it's not perfect, etc. People love a good whinge while also contributing nothing. Take care.
the only saving grace of air management is negative/positive pressure
I built a fume hood in my workshop and it works great
I do need to improve the whole room circulation though
and I can't leave the hood running 24/7 so it probably leaks resin fumes a little bit
Hell yeah, we need to talk WAY MORE about this!
I throw you a basic conditioning tip which my father told me (he's the engineer me nuh) and I found it useful when indoor growing weed: If you enclose the printer enough you have to duct out at least 2,5x the sum of the area of the gaps which allows air in. That's the min section of your air outlet, but as you forcefully extract the air you can go as low as 2x if the air vent is very powerful. 2,5x "should suffice" in the case of ex. a chimney, forced air but no motor no mechanical forced extraction.
As you work "underpressured" and not in the meaning of lazy :) there's no chance anything except radiations could escape the enclosure of the printer if not through the forced exctraction.
Add a duct of the right section to drive the air out of the premises and out there you might use a carbon filter the ones for the growrooms. Given the volume of a printer compared to a full blooming afghani kush you see that a 20 bucks worth agricultural filter will last you at least 6 months on printers. ;)
Think they're conceived for who even uses forced CO2 on the blooms to force the plants growth, not merely to avoid suspicious smells.
Air recycling is an easy game. It's hydroponics the tricky one. 😂😂😂
PLA irritates my throat and lungs a LOT. Asthma makes me way more sensitive than normal people, but the fact is, the nanovirus fills the entire house even with an enclosure with an exhaust hose and a fan, several closed doors, and open windows. I am waiting for a HEPA air purifier, but the PLA particles are still smaller than what HEPA can manage. Looks like a deadend. My best solution so far: open the windows and leave the house and go to the nearest mall like a bum and let the machine overlord live in my house (or give up and not print in the house, which means no winter printing). The funny thing is, I switched to FDM printing to escape from nasty resin fumes that destroy my heart, only to find out that “completely safe” PLA is an extreme irritant for me as well. But asthma aside, I don't think breathing nanoplastic is much good for anyone, even tough guys from reddit. This vid, honestly, paints a picture that is even worse than what I thought. Ugh.
Same here, I just print outside, under an awning. It solves a lot of issues.
Place your printers in an enclosed case (I used mdf to build a box with a door to place my printer in) and make sure it's air tight, you also want to ensure there is enough open space in the enclosed case to take your lid off resin printer and be able to do everything necessary inside.
Then get a boat motor fan 3-5" and use it as a exhaust suction fan to suck out all the voc's in the case and push them through a exhaust hose or pipe headed outside your house (I cut hole in wall of house and ran it through there). From the outside of your house have the exhaust pipe or hose aim upward and be at least 3 ft above that rooms roof (to decrease odds of voc's being pushed out and pulled back in through open window).
I am hazmat and HazWhopper certified, anyone wishing to handle dangerous chemicals should get the same certifications.
The room I keep this case in I have two fans circulating air while a window is open.
Always wear the proper PPE when 3-d printing
This is a huge wake up call for me. I got a 3d printer in 2021, and my asthma started getting worse as time went on. "PLA is safe, right?" I have 4 printers running in my basement, about 20 ft from my bedroom door. About six months ago I was admitted to the hospital with acute respiratory failure and had a cloudy ct scan indicating lung damage. We were thinking it was from covid or from thc vape pens. But I never officially had covid, and I barely used those pens in the past. Now I think it was from the printers. That's a big bummer. Time to put the hobby on hold I guess. Your comment was very insightful. Thank you.
@@mikek3658 all resins and filaments produce VOC's (resins at a higher volume than filaments when in liquid form) they are dangerous when inhaled, can cause cancer, breathing problems, calcification/crystalization of lungs and other organs (though rare, the exposure would have to be great and long term). Always wear a respirator when around resins or filaments.
@@mikek3658 fellow asthmatic here, that’s 1000% certain PLA particles 0,1 micron diameter. HEPA H13 filters manages up to 0,3 diameter. A shed somewhere outside, or a balcony.
@@mikek3658thc vape pens are really bad from what I've researched.
I have just bought a plant growing box, that can be sealed and have ventilation to a window, a friend of mine recommended us getting one as we live in an apartment with doors to only 2 rooms.. It has been hell printing anything on my resin printer bc of the air quality, and as a result i haven't really printed anything.. I really hope putting my printer in an isolated box with ventilation to the outside will help, but i think ill buy a air quality checker thingy so i can keep an eye out on ventilating our apartment too.
I do think the best thing would be to have any kind of printer in an area you aren't in often, and/or in a closed off box/cabinet/closet/whatever that can contain the toxic fumes and ventilate them out.
All of my printers are enclosed with 3" ducting and large online fans sending the air from inside the enclosures outside. If I wait for prints to cool and the printer to cool wouldn't this insure a the air in the room is clean? I also put my filament dryers in a vented enclosure and do have an oscillating fan bring air from the door into the room. Would have been nice to see a test with enclosed ventilated printers etc.
At work we have a lot of printers going in the office space. I am a retired firefighter and medical responder and had to treat a fellow working for breathing the pollutants from 3D printers and we ultimately moved them to their own space with exhaust ventilation.
I am using online axial fans that are 75 cfm for each enclosure.
One more thing to add is that every time you bring home a new product, like a printer, or anything manufactured, it may give off VOCs for a period of time. That "new smell" might seem nice, but may not be great for you.
True!
Love your stuff! And this was super informative! Anecdotal at best. But I did a big project and had 8 p1ps running in my living room 24/7 for 15 days printing pla. I can sometimes still smell pla now.
Now Henriertta Lacks story is more about how horribly the establishment treated this young ladys family.
I want to see what effect all this has on your prints, how it affects warping, etc, and how humidity is affected by all this. This is all especially important to anyone who wants to print with materials that are sensitive to these things such as PVA, and if you end up needing to try the filaments more often as a result.
Honestly I didn't even think about Humidity in all of this. It's 74% humidity here right now, so basically I was like "screw it, I'm not going to try, I'm going to prioritize air quality and protecting my LUNGS over protecting my filament." Print quality has been fine on my open printers, but again, it's 33 celsius here... i think it would be very different if it were 8!
Humidity affects a lot more than just your filaments. Organic macro particles get coated by a layer of water and become heavier, harder to move around and exponentially more prone to aggregate or to be weighted down to the bottom air layer of the room and to the dust. Try placing the sensor on a high table one day and on the floor the next. The difference is clear @@thenextlayer
I hope all is well and that you and your family are safe.
Thank you.
Be safe! Got me thinking about air filtration, thanks!
Any thought of supplementing your Dreo with a dust collector? Woodworkers use them to help keep PM2.5 levels down when sanding, sawing ,etc. It would probably extend the life of your Dreo's filters.
More awareness around this is a great thing. Thanks for putting this together and giving great resources, too.
Glad you enjoyed it!
Hi! That white little air quality tester I see on your video often comes with faking HCHO and TVOC sensor. It may actually not have them inside (I disassembled it and checked mine). Instead the HCHO and TVOC values seemingly depend on current CO2 value. You may want to check yours...
correct answer! True VOC meters are expensive. Certainly won't find those on aliexpress.
Affordable ppm2.5 meters do exist however.
Depending on size, orientation, airflow dynamics, and volume of material passed through it, an activated carbon filter with a HEPA prefilter lasts somewhere between 2 weeks (heavy use) and 1 year. Moderate daily use will reduce the life expectancy of the filter to 1 to 3 months. You really need monitoring devices to determine how long the filter remains effective at eliminating particles.
But not all VOC are harmful. Basically air freshers produces VOCs, baking produces VOCs etc.
You go ahead and huff VoCs all you want but the rest of society will simply opt for less polluted air.
@@Mad_Catter_ No they would not. i.e. aroma marketing attracts people to shops in the mall by spreading VOCs. People visit places with eucalyptus to smell it and find it healthy,
Makes me feel great having one bedroom/office/workspace and plenty in nice Massachusetts window opening weather.
Very well done. I think I'm going to look into an air purifier, too, and rethink where I do it, which is currently a ground floor that I don't like leaving the window open.
Great video. I don't do any sanding/glueing/building in my room. That all happens in the garage (I know I am blessed to have that option). I do almost entirely FDM PLA printing, but still want to migrate them to my basement at some point.
That's a great idea. Do that + add some webcams and you're good. Just don't forget to ventilate / circulate / filter in the basement, because you don't want all that stuff building up so much.
Good points were "Even with BentoBox and such you don´t know if the air quality is good enough inside" this shows to me how important it is to increase the filtering action of the bento boxes by installing for instance a 5015 fan or similar, increasing the filter surface with a bigger filter and so on. I should err on the more clean side, because those little solutions can clean the air pretty well but it takes hours in some cases since they can´t usually speaking not keep up with the emissions while the printer is running.
Some of the Nevermore filters have VOC sensors integrated (on both sides) to indicate when the filters need changing. You can probably add an indicator (if they haven't already) for clean air.
@@reddragonflyxx657 The sensor does not make the air cleaner sooner it just indicated when it´s done, but that´s a good point.
@@sierraecho884 Yeah, the sensor does nothing to air quality, it just measures VOC concentration before and after the filter, and it should be pretty easy to program a cheap RGB indicator light with different colors for when it detects
- clean inlet air (safe to open enclosure)
- high VOC inlet air (don't open the enclosure yet)
- high VOC outlet air (saturated carbon filter)
@@reddragonflyxx657 Still would take hours before you can open the door with those small filters and you still would have to change the filter material once per month. At least. And now you need those sensors, and wiring, and all that crap.
I’m a new 3d print enthusiast, but a long-time HVAC technician. You should look into a Panasonic erv, or their exhaust fans. They are good stuff
Are they priced for consumers? A lot of the exhaust systems I found with good reviews were $800+
You need lot of circulation combined with HEPA+Activated Charcoal (for reducing small particles+chemical absorption) + UV activated TiO2 catalyst( to breakdown vocs). Also need electrostatic filtering for reducing PM2.5 count. It is better to have recirculation controlled by remote timers, than moving fresh air + exhausing pollutants for 3d printing(both resin, FDM) to extend life of filters and to limit exposure.
Fresh ventillation and exhaust with inline charcoal filtering may be the only best option for laser cutters and engravers. Just some 💭♥️👍
Whoa. You're blowing my mind. I haven't heard of TiO2... or electrostatic filtering. I have a lot to learn. Where can I learn more of this without going to night school or getting a degree in it?
@@thenextlayer Actually, some HEPA units of the past came with builtin UV TiO2 catalyst(produces ozone and helps breakdown VOCs). There were also some TiO2 bulbs to remove bad odor. May be it is not that economical to add that option to HEPA units. Also the electrostatic filtering is unique in that, it uses a high voltage wire(s) to electrically charge the dust particles, which then get collected on an opposite charged paper or plates. The short comings being need for circulating air, reduced capacity(if larger particles are present), and generation of residual ozone(lung irritant). There has been atleast one consumer unit(with a single wire and a replaceable vellum like paper), and honeywell units for hvac filtering that uses plates, willneed cleaning in a dish washer. I've been using these for a while, along with many hepa units with long life filters (similar to sharp plasma clusters) running 24x7, spread out in living/bedroom areas. You can easily observe the effects of 3d printing on people with sensitive lung conditions, even without any air quality monitoring. I even developed a portable personal ventillator for that purpose. It has been the result of continued research on moving to a home with recirculating hvac(primarily all of U.S. homes). Also, if you have an unfinished attic, it could benefit to exhaust the fumes(not the laser kind, which needs exhaust to outside after charcoal filtering), safely through a wall mounted exhaust fan into the attic area.
I'm getting ready to set up my printer space. I plan on setting up a fume hood that will have a tee and dampers. I plan to have an activated carbon filter that can recirculate the air in the room and then adjust the dampers to vent outside, and a hole in the wall down low to let in clean air. Since I'll have an AC in the room I want to be able to circulate the air in the room and not just blow it all out and bring in new hot humid air. I might throw a HEPA filter in too. My resin printer, my new X1C and my IPA station will be under the hood.
Sucking the air out of a window (or even a dedicated hole with a dryer vent on the outside) by using a bounce house fan (and printing adapters to match dryer hose etc that are flanged to mate with the blower) will move a lot of air. I use those fans and carpet dryer fans to ventilate my shop when welding and they are aggressive. No need to filter what you completely remove.
Maybe it’s time for an ERV/HRV for your studio? That’ll filter and condition the outside air as it enters the unit.
Agree with having an ERV/HRV to about any space, these systems are not commonly known from what I’ve seen.
What’s that? Like a professional system? Sounds so expensive
@@thenextlayerthe house grade ERVs/HRVs are expensive. Maybe it is time for an open source hardware version that’s closer to the DIY air filters that woodworkers use. Focus would be on exhausting the PM2.5 + VOCs and trying to condition the incoming air to remove humidity and filter it a little. Doesn’t need to be perfect.
@@thenextlayerA ERV/HRV is a fresh air filtration and ventilation device that is pretty basic at its core. It's two fans with a heat exchanger core. One fan pulls air from the outside through the heat exchanger and a filter while the other fan exhausts the indoor air through the heat exchanger to the outside. This gives you a constant flow of filtered fresh air so that you aren't adding particulates to your indoor environment and the heat exchanger core helps to temper the incoming air so that you aren't bringing in hot air in the summer or cold air in the winter.
So at least in the US the whole house units can be a few thousand for the unit plus labor and materials depending on your setup. But there are some that are more of a single room version that is somewhat like a bathroom fan that is in the 400-600 dollar range, and could maybe be diy depending on how handy you are. That might be a good small workshop size and give a good air exchange and filtering system without needing a remodel for a whole house system.
In Canada, or at least in Alberta, weather reports now routinely include the Air Quality Health Index number. Everyone who's endured this past summer where basically every forest in the country caught fire is well aware that the outside air might be awful... Anyway, I don't know if a similar resource is available elsewhere, but if practical, checking on the local outside air quality can help make decisions about ventilation - and potentially projects. There where a few days this summer where I just shut down my 3d printer because the smoke was so bad outside I didn't want the vent fan running.
Damn, that's a good idea, too. I didn't even THINK to check the air quality index of my city, and yet, I checked it all the time when I was in China... I'm learning so much just from the comments of this video and the discussions I'm having here... I'm really glad I did this video :)
On my Lathe i have a suction tube that sucks the light dust away and dumps it in a filtered box, I was going to try it on the enclosed printer but then keeping it hot in there becomes a nightmare as that thing moves alot of air. Then i thought about recirculating the air through a carbon or panel filter but that would be hurricane force drafts with that air shifter, I Think this would be the best option but on a smaller scale. Just means spending more money. But, Health wins over money. Stay safe.
Great video! Air quality is recently a problem I have taken on for my setup which I recently enclosed. I print a ton of ASA, and thought I better start to take counter measures to potential pollutants.
In my enclosure, I have a fresh air intake to bring cool outside air into the chamber. I also have a speed controlled (controlled by temperature inside the enclosure) exhaust fan paired with a 3 stage Hepa/carbon filter that for now vents to the room. I have been considering recirculating the exhaust into the chamber to conserve heat allow multiple passes through the filter. For now, I just have a 3-stage room air cleaner sitting on the exhaust side of my enclosure. it does seem to make a difference in the "dust" that had been settling on objects in the room before enclosing the printer. I can only assume though that the air quality is also better at this point as I do not have the tools to test that currently (next purchase).
If you have polluted air I’d suggest a MERV 13 filter for your intake from outside. Prevent the pollutants from entering in the first place.
In my garage currently have my ender 6 in a tent enclosure with an exhaust fan that goes to a rubbermade tub with some tiny holes drilled in the lid. I only print PLA and PETG. The particles are heavy enough that they just accumulate at the bottom and I just clean it up with a shop vac every 6 months and there's not that much. I make sure to clean the enclosure and the printer while wearing a respirator.
My goal is to build a big enclosure made of plexiglass, silicone, rubber, and construction lumber and have a in-line fan in there to extract the air. That way I can have a decent space for doing resins and epoxy. I live in a suburb of a big metro area, so it has its issues, and there is a bunch of pollen in the air almost year round, not to mention just general dust from living in the midwest. So I'll put in an air purifier or two to handle the cars and get a hookup for the shop vac to make working with it a little cleaner. Ultimately it is worth everyone's time to at least do a little bit to prevent themselves from breathing in more crap. You are never going to be able to avoid breathing in VoCs but you can limit your exposure on things that you can control.
I'm glad I live just north of Seattle. In my city, we have regulations about chopping down trees and looking just outside my townhouse I practically am in a forest. While I haven't measured the air quality, I'll bet it's far better than tel aviv.
The city also requires on windy days for construction with lots of dust and particulate to be sprayed down with water.
It also rains a lot in the non summer months, so particulates don't accumulate as much.
I have a fan blowing into the room, and a fan in the window blowing out. Fan into the room on low. Window fan on high. I can feel the flow go to the window. I'm also building a filter system. The printer will be relatively close to the window so it didn't have time to move elsewhere.
Thinking of you and your family this morning. Hope you are all safe and stay that way. Much love from California.
Thanks so much
Not to mention that measuring '2.5' particles or 'VOCs' isn't really good enough to correlate to health effects, specifics matter, and we don't have specifics, even at the governmental lab level.
I discovered 3d printing just a few months ago and have been printing constantly with my new printer. I absolutely love it! Your videos have become my favorites and I'm trying to work thru watching all of them while staying current. I am writing my concerns, hopes, and well wishes for you and your family's safety with the new current attacks on your homeland. I hope that you are all okay and that you will be able to return to making your awesome videos soon!
Thank you for the kind words and warm wishes!
This is a bit off topic...but those particulates will cover everything in your workspace, spread out to other areas via everyone that enters, and will be absorbed through the mouth, nose, and eyes, when you touch them. Attic fans would be great, here. They move a lot of air and have a great vent strategy. If possible, exhaust from the highest point in the "dirty space" and draw from the furthest and lowest part of the room. You should also use commercial air filters. If you run a business, you really need to use commercial solutions.
"open a window" *cries in Houston swamp*
🤣
Houston has swamps too???
😂😂
@@TheBinklemNetwork it's literally called the Bayou City. We have alligators less than ten miles from my house.
@@tenchuu007 Man talk about having a bad day walking in on an alligator trying to break into your home
lol all you had to do was get a fan, exhaust tubing and vent it out the window. instead you got a bunch of fans to circulate the VOC in the room? I dont see how this is even remotely a good idea.
This was great! Thank you for shining a light on the possible issues with air quality and 3D printing. I've been wondering about this, and while I've moved our printer to a space that seems more ventilated, I'll be reassessing it now based on what you've discovered. Thanks for being so thorough!
Thanks! I actually don't think I was thorough ENOUGH - I wish I could've spent another month on this video... but I'm super glad it has at least opened people's eyes, and I hope I can do a follow-up video in the future :)
Your air purifier is significantly under sized for the room. You want to pay attention to ACH (Air Changes per Hour) of your air filter solution. The ideal for filtering PM2.5 is 5 ACH. Clean Air Kits or corsi rosenthal box are better options than the DREO air purifier.
I live on the side of a large boulevard, there are 3 vehicle workshops and 2 welding shops on my block, my 3D printer is the least of my worries when it comes to air pollution.
Also my grandpa lived on the house besides mine for all of his adult life, was a heavy smoker and lived to the age of 94 so I'm not too worrryed either.
I live in Austin we are in cedar fever time, when the cedar trees bloom. The air quality drops everywhere here down during this time. So moving unfiltered air into the house just is 😢 a no go. On the charcoal filter on your filter , when it shows that it not reducing the air as much than I would change all filters. check on how long it takes to drop on its cleaning, is it 1 week, 2 weeks #weeks or #months. After that based on that I would set up a plan on replacing the filters in stages, based on time and printer usage. If the printer is not being used or has just a few hours or days of print time than I would not change the filters inside the print. In the military this would be call a planned maintenance schedule or Pms check list. This could be done when you are doing Maintenance on your machines. Just having a filter inside the printer is useless unless you clean the inside of the printer and your work space. At the end of the you should do a work space cleaning and printer that have stopped printing for that day. A wipe down on the print that has ended use for that day would be huge on your reduce of VOC levels. Than at the end of the week clean all the outside of the areas of the printer.
Snap, this is good advice, I didn't even THINK about pollen when I talked about forests and such, but a few comments like yours (and yours obviously) have opened my eyes.
I just wanted to say my thoughts and prayers are with you my friend, I have been watching the news about the attack on Israel. I hope you and your family are well and safe.
The best solution wasn't mentioned. My wife really hit home with this.. bring IN nature. Lots of plants that have a high level of air purification for your home. The best purifiers are still an imitation at best, and while you will have to find them more space and water them, your air quality will be all the better for it.
I DO NOT recommend Dreo fans. They are extremely overpriced for what they do. I bought into the marketing and got one and they barely moved any air and they were not quiet when on high, which was the speed I had to use in order feel anything. A $17 Honeywell that looks like a Vornado copy put out WAY more air while only being slightly louder. Project Farm did a review of fans not too long ago, if you're interested in his recommendations.
You should filter the air coming IN the window, also my house has the highest level of air filters in the A/C system, and to top all that off, I use an IQ Air HyperHepa filter (Yeah, REALLY expensive, but I got mine at an auction!) in my bedroom, this is designed to filter out the air using 3 stages with the last one small enough to filter out viruses. Also, I if the air quality seems low, I can leave the central air unit running on fan (unless it is really hot outside, as that blows air through the ducts in the attic which can pick up heat/cool and raise your cooling/heating bills a lot.). And yeah, air outside can be nasty...
Hi, thanks for this first step in air quality vs. 3d printing.
You are right to warn people about the potential impact an 3D printed on health.
Following your video, I would like just to highlight two points:
1. This study is sensor limited to max 2.5nm and we have no idea about smaller VOCs quantities and health impacts.
2. The nature of the chemicals emitted during 3D printing is not considered. And as far as I know it's these chemicals that led to warming us that 3D printing ABS is more harmful that PLA for example.
Performing a study to address point 2 will request a lot of resources because only gas chromatography is able to provide data.
I have been wondering for a long time if enough people will be interested and ok to finance a real scientific study with a crowdfunding campaign considering filament materials, printer characteristics (enclosure, ventilation, filtering…)…
What do you think?
One practice I never thought of when I'm first started using enclosed printers. You need to wear a N95 mask or better when you open the door up after its finished printing a print. The air when you open the door even if it is PLA it is full of micro/macro particles and other nasty stuff floating you don't want to breathe in.
I make sure my printers are quite well sealed, I run 2 x CleanAir filters in each printer, they run 60% speed during a print, and after the print they run 100% for 5 minutes, I have used a air quality tester, and this seems to be enough to flush everything when printing with ABS, but you should absolutely be exhausting air out of the environment and allowing fresh air to come in.
Fresh air from the outside is sometimes as bad or even worse as your air inside.
@@UdreamWeprint Yes agree on that, I'm quite fortunate though, as this is not the case where I live in Australia, constant clean ocean breeze and fresh country air is plentiful.
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LMAO, yeah. People can do what they want. I'm never going to tell anybody else what to do, but for myself I've had zero issues by simply keeping my printers in the closet. Even resin doesn't bother me.
Circulating in a room with air from the same room does not improve air quality. You need fresh air. A ceiling fan doesn't help with printer fumes.
I very glad to have had my eyes opened. Thank you.
I cannot wait till I have my new workshop. Having a separate room for my printers will be amazing for keeping myself from being poisoned by my printers.
I could have missed it, but did you run a control experiment/test?? If not, you cannot be certain that your observed decrease in air quality within the data is directly correlated to 3D printing, filament drying, soldering and etc. For example, the observed decrease in air quality could just as plausibly be caused by urban-related air pollution.
I've also been down the rabbit hole of air quality for VOC's from 3D printing and smoke with pollution (wildfires in my area). I think there is a critical thing people miss with particle count on air purifiers like the Dreo and any PM 2.5 meters. PM 2.5 is measured in µm (micrometer), VOC's in some publications with FDM printing are measured in nanometers. I've read a couple of them in the past and a lot of VOC's for plastic like ABS, PETG and others would be around 25 -100 nm in size which is 0.02 - 0.1 micrometer, far under PM2.5 capable measurement range. Also a bladed fan like the Dreo in the video only pushes 375cfm and there is very little static pressure especially when it reaches the window. I use a 900cfm B-AIR VP-25 with a custom 12" duct, but there are many squirrel cage style blower fans that would be smarter to use with a flexible duct. I think setting up a blower fan at one side of the room and running a duct across the room to a window and sealing the duct to the fan and window is best as long as your house has some air leakage which most do and that means there will be positive airflow into that room. You could always crack open a window in another room and the static pressure will pull air from there. The bigger the better for CFM when having a lot of printing or VOC's I think. What I've learned is my PM2.5 meters are fine to gauge the air quality for wood working and also wildfire and any outdoor pollution because with those applications there is a wide variety of particle sizes so as they all increase or dissipate and you can see from the larger particles whats happening. If you want to test your room to see what's how its working after setting up a fan system you can use a smoke test, try and fill the room and see how long it takes to filter it to clear again. You may discover that placing the fan in a different area will be more effective but keep in mind a windy day outside might limit or increase airflow as it will overcome some of the fans static pressure.
In air PM refers to solid or liquid particles, while VOC refers to gas.
Methane is a VOC, as is Sarin. Both are colourless, odorless gases. The former is non-toxic enough that I wouldn't be surprised if 80% methane/20% oxygen (800,000 ppmv VOC) was breathable. The latter has an IDLH of 0.1 mg/m³ (which is ~17.4 ppbv if I did my math correctly). It *really* matters what the VOCs are, far more than their total concentration.
@@reddragonflyxx657 That makes sense. I was basing my comments on the nm measurement and comparing it to the PM 2.5 just for a size reference to the video. All the articles I've read on VOC's with 3D printing are in nanometers. It's a grey area for me as nothing is completely clear of how harmful some of the VOC's are with certain printed materials Gases seem to linger for a long time. For example any paint thinner fumes I can smell for hours if I dont have a proper ventilation fan in a well sealed room. I think the smarter thing to do is understand the room ventilation and know for sure all air is exchanging quickly.
Go get yourself a couple Max-fans and a can-filter you can change the air in that room quick depending on what size you go
Relieved to see a new video. An interesting fact about carbon is that you need to use the correct type, rated for VOC removal. The best type is coconut based activated charcoal with a 4-8 screen mesh size. It should say VOC rated right on the package.
I opened up the charcoal in my X1C and it was simple aquarium grade carbon. Change it out immediately.
How could you tell, do they look different?
@@NaggglThe bottom line is that you can't tell. There is one brand on the market that sells the correct type of carbon. I believe it is called Evermore or Nevermore. It's often sold along with the Bento Box 3D printed parts. You can also buy the bags separately.
The table saw is one of the worst things to use in a closed room. The amount of particulates that puts out is crazy. In my back room, I open 4 windows and run fans if I'm running a saw, sander, or planer
One of the big takes I got on this, was that if I'm printing with pla in my basement and I don't do any other processing or anything, I should be fine. The basement is open to the stairs to the top floor and it's open around the stairs too. The house is 2400 sq ft, so the total air space is pretty big. Eventually I'll be moving the printer to the back room and when I do, I'll set up ventilation for it.
As a medical doctor very interested in air quality and specifically how it is impacted by 3-D printers (fused-filament fabrication and the even more toxic resin printers), it’s good to see someone investigate this issue that is unconscionably swept under the rug by most of the foremost 3-D printing TH-cam stars. This one gets some things correct but too much wrong, perhaps bending over backwards to help DREO sell fans. The one featured in this show is simply inadequate for the purpose.
Contrary to what Mr. The Next Layer (sorry, I don’t know his name) suggested, it should not take hours or overnight to clear the air in a room; such abysmal performance results from using the wrong fan and the wrong approach to evacuating air. A good design could clear a room in a minute; an excellent design could clear it in seconds and - crucially - safeguard room occupants juxtaposed to active 3-D printers.
Another mistake he makes is apparently assuming the consumer-grade air quality sensors he uses represent valid data. In reality, they miss the smallest and most dangerous nanoparticles, which are poorly removed by most filters. One needs to read and understand their technical data sheets, not blindly assume that filters adequate for ordinary household air sufficiently mitigate the hazards generated by 3-D printers.
If you live in a populated area, another mistake is venting outside without first thoroughly filtering the air because some of the exhaust air will inevitably be inhaled by neighbors (through open windows, being outside, and because no building is hermetically sealed: outside air and its contaminants inevitably wick inside). Legislators are commonly oblivious to this risk. If you take five minutes off the life of a cancer patient doomed to die in the next hour, you would likely be prosecuted and convicted of murder. Yet you will almost certainly get off scot-free if you take years off the lives of neighbors by polluting their air with 3-D printer emissions or those from wood-burning fireplaces and stoves - part of the price we pay for being led by scientifically illiterate people who, relevant to this matter, also permit 3-D printers to be freely sold without adequate warnings and with the 3-D printing industry free of regulation, permitting it to pretend that its products are not toxic. But they are, and Mr. The Next Layer realizes this, so kudos to him for addressing it.
"Let fresh air in" is the step a lot of folks seem to skip.
And I admit, I'm appalled by the number of people who think 3d Gloop is safe. Anything that can dissolve PETG is very, very not safe, and probably a controlled substance in California. Use a respirator!
My last thought is this: large numbers of people having hobby level 3d printers is something that's been around a fairly short time. We have no idea what the long-term health effects of being around these machines will be. I know that even printing PLA is enough to set off my asthma and yes, having asthma means I'll react to air quality that other folks find just fine - but it also means there's *something* present to react to. Anyone who keeps a working 3d printer in a room they spend a lot of time in is, at the very least, inhaling some quantity of microparticle plastics and that can't be good for you.
A lot of really good points here. I don't want to denigrate GLOOP! because they do put warnings all over the packaging, but you're right, most people do not heed them!
From those floor shots, it looks like you have a particulate issue at least as heavy as any VOC issue :). I'm lucky enough to live in that mystical, enchanted meadow called the Mountains of N Alabama, but I still use air circulation and filtration for my FDM and Resin printing environment.
Bingo. City air quality. With construction. So many particles
Here is an idea that would help , have a couple of shelves of these plants in every room of house (Dracaena trifasciata)