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nnorton00
เข้าร่วมเมื่อ 23 มิ.ย. 2007
1/24th Scale 4x8 Indoor Crawler Course Head to Head Competition
My buddy, NykG, came over and we had some fun on the crawler course. Decided to do some Head to Head competition. We used 4" toothpicks, Avery labels, and playdough for the flags.
We didn't use any standard rules, we just agreed on some point values prior to starting.
There are 3 runs, 2 on the first layout, and one on the second layout.
0:00 (Intro and Course Layout)
1:40 (Course 1, NykG's Run)
6:54 (Course 1, My Run)
10:47 (Course 2, NykG's Run)
We didn't use any standard rules, we just agreed on some point values prior to starting.
There are 3 runs, 2 on the first layout, and one on the second layout.
0:00 (Intro and Course Layout)
1:40 (Course 1, NykG's Run)
6:54 (Course 1, My Run)
10:47 (Course 2, NykG's Run)
มุมมอง: 69
วีดีโอ
1/24th Scale Indoor Crawler Park Running Video - nnorton00
มุมมอง 1.3K2 หลายเดือนก่อน
I'll apologize now for the poor production. I'm not a content creator, just a hobbyist that wants to share his creations. I was driving while my dad was filming.
1/24th Scale Indoor Crawler Park Build Part 3 - nnorton00
มุมมอง 7302 หลายเดือนก่อน
I pulled a 'rest of the owl'... I finished adding some additional features, plastering, filling, more filling, painting, more painting, and finally adding some flocking and moss detail. For the paint I used 3 base colors: light grey, rusty yellow (I messed this up in the video), and a rust red. This was followed up with a wash in dark grey. Finally, a dry brush in an off white/grey that pulled ...
1/24th Scale Indoor Crawler Park Build Part 2 - nnorton00
มุมมอง 4583 หลายเดือนก่อน
1:24th scale crawler park build part 2. 3 cans of spray foam went down and about 8 lbs of plaster using cheese cloth went down. I'm really happy how it is coming together.
1/24th Scale Indoor Crawler Park Build Part 1 - nnorton00
มุมมอง 1843 หลายเดือนก่อน
1:24th scale crawler park build part 1. Skeleton is complete. I've sized it so 1/18 trucks will fit as well but generally, geared toward the 24th scale guys. I used liquid nails to bond everything and all the foam you see is from scrap foam in packages collected over the past few months to a year. The table is built with folding legs on a 4x8 sheet of plywood. any additional questions feel free...
Slack Lack - The Lack Enclosure with Sliding Pocket Doors
มุมมอง 73K5 ปีที่แล้ว
Thingiverse: www.thingiverse.com/thing:3485510 The Slack Lack was greatly influenced by the Original Prusa Enclosure found here: www.thingiverse.com/thing:2864118 That being said, all of the design and CAD for this enclosure is my own. I wanted an enclosure for printing ABS but I also wanted to be able to leave the front open when printing PLA. I didn't want to have to leave the doors wide open...
French Bulldog puppies, Tinkerbell and Woody playing.
มุมมอง 348 ปีที่แล้ว
French Bulldog puppies, Tinkerbell and Woody playing.
Mame (Hyperspin) Arcade Boot and Shutdown
มุมมอง 8K9 ปีที่แล้ว
Finally designed and printed a pushbutton to go in the front of the arcade, now she'll start-up with the push of a button!
3D Printed Pushbutton 2.0
มุมมอง 35K9 ปีที่แล้ว
Version 2.0 of my previous pushbutton. This was designed to go into an off sized hole in my arcade. It will be used with a flip cover to power on the arcade system. It was designed using onshape.com Files can be found here: www.thingiverse.com/thing:941782
Pushbutton I designed and 3D printed.
มุมมอง 7309 ปีที่แล้ว
Pushbutton I designed and printed on a 3D printer. 3 printed parts are the button, housing and nut. The nut also carries the micro switch and retains the spring.
Fusematic Mid-print.
มุมมอง 2459 ปีที่แล้ว
Just got her up and running yesterday. Starting to get her hood and dialed in!
Fusematic first print.
มุมมอง 479 ปีที่แล้ว
Definitely not dialed in, not sure if I'm over extruding or if there filament is oozing.
A Busy Canal in Venice
มุมมอง 16816 ปีที่แล้ว
My buddy and Kenneth and I across from the Ferrovia (train station) in Venice.
'Promo sm' 🌸
what program do you use to model these parts?
I think for this specifically, I used Onshape, but that was quite a few years ago. They made changes to their free accounts, and since then, I've moved to Fusion360.
@@nnorton00 awesome thank you. I have used SolidWorks for years but soon will not have access so, looking for some cheap/free alternatives
the obnoxiously loud stupid music prevented me from enjoying the video - thumbs down
Thanks for the feedback, it's only my second time to use TH-cam's video editor. I didnt want 15 minutes of near silence so I wanted to add some sort of background music. I tried to put the music at 25% of the standard volume but apparently I missed something. I'll try to edit it out.
Best looking indoor course I’ve seen!
🤘🛻🏔🍻
Looks great. New sub
This is so friggin cool. How did you make that?
I've got a couple other videos on the build, it's not exhaustive, but it can help give you an idea. Hope it helps!
@@nnorton00 Yeah for sure, thanks! Drop a link in this message thread if you can, and I'll go check it out. I'm guessing you used plaster of Paris for most of it?
th-cam.com/play/PL4Oio8MBU5Rln9wdG76lbRXV2MXN6zp3o.html&si=9cKL4aUSUFzQjbAd
Hands down, you have the best looking indoor track I've seen on youtube by a long shot. Subscribed.
Thank you! I appreciate it!
Not to be a downer or any disrespect intended.. but u really havent seen to many courses then dude. Just as an off the top of my head example, Reactive Terrain from the UK Also dont get me wrong either, it is an awesome looking course. Now this is just my opinion but courses built like this are extremely linear and really only have a few paths to choose from. That will get old after a while and make it very difficult to change it up based on the choice of material used. I personally went with a Carpet Mountain for an indoor course for the 24ths which can be driven on everywhere and changed at a moments notice. Either way, its still an awesome course and Im sure the lil ones would love to run their rigs on something so kewl :) Oh yea, some scale looking bushes and trees from train scale sets would make this course next level, also lego dudes fit into the rigs perfectly as well which adds a nice nostalgic touch too :) PEACE!
What are the balls in the pit of despair. ?? Super track man.
Lookup: "Crosman ASP10K12 Premier .12-Gram 6mm Camo Airsoft BBs" on Amazon, it came in a package of 10,000. It was exactly enough to fill the pit.
Said I'd watch it and here I am! Nice course, love the BB pit, it seems decently difficult. But not impossible. But my favourite aspect of the course is that you didn't make one or two 'tracks'. You made a mountain with endless possibilities. I've got some more inspiration now for my course now! Ps; i'm quite surprised at how tip-happy the fms is. Makes sense but iit shows you made the course good! Nice and challenging. Some bits nearly impossible for stock trucks yet not too difficult for slightly modified cars or extremely good driver capabilities. (Was the fms balancing on the board 18:44 intentional?) Also; we (me + fiancé) enjoy setting out a course and timing each other on the run. A lot of fun.
Thanks! I actually added some BBs to the ruts in the back this morning as well, but haven't had a chance to test it. My whole goal for this project was to have as many lines as possible. Just like you mention, it bothered me to see so many builds in this same footprint have one or two paths, it felt like a lot of waisted space. Im super happy how it came out and there are a ton of other lines I didn't take on this video. I've been driving on this thing for a couple months now and I'm starting to figure out a lot of its nuances so it helps with understanding the lines and how to keep the trucks upright. Also yeah the tabletop grind wasn't originally my intention but I've done it before and once I realized that's how it was lined up I just went for it haha. I've made gates for it with 100mm toothpicks and playdough for the base. My friend and I would take turns placing gates, it forces us to take new lines and think about different approaches. We generally allow 2-3 reverses per gate on the upper section and 0-1 on the lower section. It's a blast! I'll definitely add some more videos, especially the next time I do a comp with some friends.
@@nnorton00 Nice, look forward to seeing some comp-footage! playdough for holding the gates is a good one. Didn't think of that myself yet.
Where's the test run? Looks awesome
New video added!
I have an imgur gallery with photos of the progress between update 2 and 3. It's amazing how different it looked with just the base coats before the wash and dry brushing. imgur.com/a/25gQxgL
I love this about 3D printing. Being able to create a very specific use item like this, at home, with a very low cost. My only concern is where the bolts are attached to the switch, since it is 3D resin which generally is brittle to start and gets more brittle over time, I think I’d have made the area thicker and tapered it off just to give it a little extra strength. Since the video is 8 years old, how’s the button held up? I assume you made revisions during this time, but just in case you didn’t, I figured I’d ask.
It isn't resin, simply PLA. I still have the same button installed in the arcade.
Спасибо за модель.
Where do you source the acrylic panels?
There was a plastics distributor near where I lived that cut the pieces to size and shipped them. I believe it was right around €40-€50.
Nice layout! I just got some cheese cloth to try with Elmer's glue all for my course..
can you confirm which glue you used to bond/glue petg to the acrylic panels. thanks
Does this work with ABS? I couldn’t help but notice the large gaps along the doors
II just printed all the parts and started assmbling, I have an issue with the Ikea lack legs which are hollow. Howsare the screws syupposed to support the leg, I have tried multiple times and have wasted a few lack table legs. Am i missing something?
Watch the Prusa build video, it should clear up any assembly issues.
Is there a build video for this enclosure?
No build video, but explanation and BOM available on Thingiverse.
Great topic 👍
Where did you source your acrylic panels? I am finding a few kits, but all the acrylic panels are too small and idk if I want to custom order some
Hi, i want assembly printing parts, maybe to this instruction with the sizes of the screws and their places?
bonjour quel est la dimension de la table? merci sinon beau travail
Absolutely Fantastic. Thanks for sharing!!!!
Nice building! For what do you need two tables? Why not just Polycarbonate on the top without a second table?
The bottom table is for storage,. The printer being in the top table raises it up. If it was in just one table, it would be sitting on the floor. Seems self explanatory?
This is a couple years late, but still. Congrats on making this man this is a fuckin amazing design. Do you have an engineering background or something like that?
I'll link my build once im done printing these last few parts and assemble it. Seriously awesome design!
You've been at it a while and still no link. Having any luck?
Actually I want this too!!
@@SABRE-ls5fu my parts just finished printing last night
great 3d model, great work! tip my hat to you.
Wow!! You could make the project for the switch and analogic joystick too... just to complete the group for arcade users. Iol...for us brazilians, it became expensive cause the dollar is ... as we say here... at the clouds (so high)...
Pointless video. Doesn't show you how to install the button.
See my other videos for the button assembly.
ciao, è possibile sapere l'altezza interna netta????io ho una Longer lk4 pro.
L'altezza utile totale è di 50 cm.
@@nnorton00 thanks
will cr-6 se fit into?
Hello! I tried on my end with my own CR6 SE. It's just a few mm short in height, even when removing the handle, so you'd need extra pieces to make the legs longer. I'll comment back here if I encounter other problems, but even the Y axis seem to be rather tight, and you can't keep the side spool holder.
Magnet Tip. The original creator mentions below occasionally having to re-glue magnets with CA. I produce a line of model aircraft that use magnets for wing holds and hatch holds. Firstly, CA glue is very brittle like glass. When the magnets come together it's with a snap. So they slowly crack up and loosen from the glue. Use Epoxy. Epoxy is not brittle and is in fact a bit soft. This will no break from the shockwave of the two magnets slamming together. Before you glue them, burnish the magnet slightly with fine sandpaper - like 150 to 300 grit. The idea is to put a haze of fine scratches on the magnet, not to sand through the plating. Just take the shine off. Slower epoxy glues tend to be softer after curing. But, 5 minute is fine. I swirl a little around in the hole, put a little in the magnet, then press the magnet in. Then lay a patch of wax paper or use painters tape over the magnet. Then lay something steel on the magnet that is flat, a razor blade on it's side is perfect. Now use the flat metal object to press the magnet flush with the surface. This prevents you from putting it below the surface and the magnetism it's self prevents the magnet from slipping below the surface (if the hole is loose) as it holds it's self up to the metal object. Allow to cure 1 to 2x the epoxy cure time. These magnets will not fall out and will be right up flush with surface where they will have the most holding power. Enjoy!
Or rubberized CA
Gorilla glue or foam-tac. Problem solved.
Could this be printed in PLA? or would it get to hot?
Hallo. Thanks for this amazing and unique design. Only one request. How to make more higher? My Genius desn't fit for that dimension. I need at least 55cm high.
You could replace the lack legs by a wooden beam from the hardware store which you saw into pieces of 55+cm length.
This is a smart design ngl
SON of A B.....im friggin' over 30hours into another print and i find this bad assery ....now do i cut my losses and start over is the question haha sick case man!
Are all those catcher kind of things just only for the bottom 4 spacers? Are you on supposed to put a screw in the catchers and have the bottom spacers just lean on them?
The catches are for the bottom only, it's so the top can be removed easily for full access to the printer if needed. Like I stated in the other reply and on the thingiverse page, please see the Prusa enclosure documentation if you don't understand what is going on.
Nowhere you've shown how to build this, the drawing is so low-res and very hard to follow. Also can only build it upside down for now since I want to lay down where comes what makes it even more confusing :(
Like I state on the thingiverse page, you should follow the Prusa enclosure build guide. It has a very nice walkthrough on how to build the enclosure, mine only differs by the front doors which you should be able to see on the high resolution diagram that is included in the zip download from thingiverse, not the smaller thumbnail on the preview page.
thus is awesome I am printing as we speak. Question are the thickness for glass 3mm?
How has it held up? I just ordered my printer and tomorrow going to IKEA this week to buy the lack tables. I can't start assembly before I printed the parts and can't print until I get my printer so I'm finding out what I want right now.
Yup, occasionally I'll have to reglue a magnet. Even using super glue I've had 3-4 that I've had to reglue, NBD though.
So sick, i’m kind of intimidated To build it, But such a good design
It's cheap and it doesn't bite, just print it ffs
Can you make a assembly video how you build it
That would require making another one or tearing down this one and building back up again. I don't think that I'll go that far, but if you follow the link to the Thingiverse page, you'll find that there is an exploded view in the files that shows where everything goes and how many quantities of each. Hope that helps.
nnorton00 thankyou for the reaction i will try to make it with the exploded vieuw can you make for me a video with more detail inside en outside from closer if you want to do that you can send the video by email
Is it also calm down the noise
mazing project, thank you, do you mind share the spring size? or a ebay or amazon link? thank you
Hi there! I love your setup, ive printed it myself and yeah, a lotta PLA goes in this one! Im having trouble with one thing though. How do you feed your fillament trough the top and to the extruder? The fillament must make such a weird bent im afraid it wont work...
Drill a hole through the top and use one of the ball bearing roller guides on thingiverse. Been running it that way for a year now with no issues. 👍
nnorton00 thanks! Will try that!
@@aeroxapc www.thingiverse.com/thing:3061551 This is the specific one I use
nnorton00 i’m using the same one. Did a search on filament guide and found this one the best looking, works like a charm. But, i’m replacing it with an ptfe tube when my order arrives! No more threading filament, just insert from the top and feed it through the extruder.
Excellent work!! It looks so clean and professional, thanks for sharing.
Are you going 4mm?
Hello, first of all i want to congratulate you for the design. I would like to ask a question about the slack table legs. From the pictures i can see that the spacers are less than 50x50mm the dimention that the legs have. I mean the spacer side and the leg side are not straight, is this for a special reason ? I am about to print and assemble your design soon. Congratulations once again it is very clever the sliding removable doors system.
Any feedback on this ? Thanks!
Thanks for sharing it going to make it!