The diff preload isn’t to stop the outer cone spinning, the cover when torqued retains the outer cone. Preload on this gearbox is the removal of any of lateral clearance between covers and the tiny amount within the radial bearing, that combined may allow the diff to float, change the gear mesh / backlash with the pinion and wear the bearing. This is because radial ball bearings are not designed to take axial loads which are present in all helical cut gears due to the tooth angle, plus bearing width tolerances, gasket thickness etc all vary slightly. The side loads are not as severe as say a typical rear axle where the pinion meshes on one side, therefore it doesn’t really warrant taper roller bearings which can handle both radial and axial loads.
Hey Cole, when you fitted the detent plunger/ball and spring, i didn't see you fit the O ring that goes there too....you need to fit that otherwise it will leak from that cover 👍
Cole - I am about to tackle a Gearbox strip down and rebuild (A+ Rod Change). Did you ever do a video on stripping and re-building the Flywheel Casing that holds the other Idler Gear and First Motion Gear?
Cole, Seven's machinist Steve says to torque down the sides first, then the top cover gets put on @ 30 - he tightens race versions to 35 (assuming 3/8" bolts in both instances) ~K
Most of the (low) torque specs are to prevent the threads from being damaged. Aluminium is not that strong so that's why the spec is so low. It just needs to be tight but for safety they put a number on it. "25lbft" sounds better than "half a turn before the thread is f*cked" ;)
Bolt tension isn't a matter of what "feels right", if the spec says 25ftlbs then that is the right amount. And that seems right for that bolt diameter.
Some of the best mini related videos on you tube but is it necessary to have so much flicky editing while you talk? Id rather watch a slightly longer video than have you edit out half a second between sentences... Perhaps see you at the IMM.
The "jump cut" has been normalized on youtube, but I think it's overplayed. I don't use them much, but then I get feedback saying "learn your lines better!" Hehe I don't have lines, I'm just wingin' it. Which is why I have like 3 subs... ha
The diff preload isn’t to stop the outer cone spinning, the cover when torqued retains the outer cone. Preload on this gearbox is the removal of any of lateral clearance between covers and the tiny amount within the radial bearing, that combined may allow the diff to float, change the gear mesh / backlash with the pinion and wear the bearing. This is because radial ball bearings are not designed to take axial loads which are present in all helical cut gears due to the tooth angle, plus bearing width tolerances, gasket thickness etc all vary slightly. The side loads are not as severe as say a typical rear axle where the pinion meshes on one side, therefore it doesn’t really warrant taper roller bearings which can handle both radial and axial loads.
Cole, Great series of videos on the gearbox & engine builds which will help a lot of people out, Top job. Cheers Dave
Thanks Dave. I appreciate the kind words. 🙂
I'm going through a gearbox build right now so these vids are helpful, and timely!!
Very beautiful videos!!!!love from Greece
Hey Cole, when you fitted the detent plunger/ball and spring, i didn't see you fit the O ring that goes there too....you need to fit that otherwise it will leak from that cover 👍
Cole - I am about to tackle a Gearbox strip down and rebuild (A+ Rod Change). Did you ever do a video on stripping and re-building the Flywheel Casing that holds the other Idler Gear and First Motion Gear?
Cole, Seven's machinist Steve says to torque down the sides first, then the top cover gets put on @ 30 - he tightens race versions to 35 (assuming 3/8" bolts in both instances) ~K
Fantastic..
did you miss the o ring seal on the detent ?
I missed recording it but I didn't miss it in the assembly thankfully.
couldn't find it on ebay,what ebay should I look under. Thanks
Link was in the description :-)
www.ebay.com/itm/333064934571?ul_noapp=true
Did you change the gear ratios or diff ratio?? Like how did you make the gearbox handle the extra power from the supercharger?
Most of the (low) torque specs are to prevent the threads from being damaged. Aluminium is not that strong so that's why the spec is so low. It just needs to be tight but for safety they put a number on it. "25lbft" sounds better than "half a turn before the thread is f*cked" ;)
Bolt tension isn't a matter of what "feels right", if the spec says 25ftlbs then that is the right amount. And that seems right for that bolt diameter.
Some of the best mini related videos on you tube but is it necessary to have so much flicky editing while you talk? Id rather watch a slightly longer video than have you edit out half a second between sentences...
Perhaps see you at the IMM.
Thanks for the kind words and the constructive feedback. It’s definetly something I will work on in upcoming videos. 👍🏼
The "jump cut" has been normalized on youtube, but I think it's overplayed.
I don't use them much, but then I get feedback saying "learn your lines better!" Hehe I don't have lines, I'm just wingin' it. Which is why I have like 3 subs... ha