Rebuilding a Classic Mini Rod Change Gearbox - Part 1
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 17 ก.ค. 2024
- #classicmini #gearbox #rebuild #rodchange
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Today's episode is all about starting the Rebuild of a Classic Mini Rod Change Gearbox. This is a very technical deep dive into the entire process. You can find the entire series here: • Rod Change Gearbox Reb...
Timestamps:
0:00 Intro
3:20 Tools you Need
5:46 Gearbox Details
6:50 Speedo Housing Removal
10:08 Diff Cover Removal
17:28 Main Shaft Nut Removal
21:57 Laygear Removal
25:22 Reverse Gear Removal
27:04 Mainshaft Removal
31:56 Selector Forks Removal
33:15 Selector Shaft Removal
34:31 Outro and Credits
❱ Parts in this Episode:
❱❱ Punch Set - geni.us/q4BnBm (Amazon)
❱❱ Pry Bar Set - geni.us/8KbeS (Amazon)
❱❱ Hammers - geni.us/lOCLw (Amazon)
❱❱ Snap Ring Tool - geni.us/iGjW (Amazon)
❱❱ Impact Driver/Zip Gun - geni.us/xBm9nW (Amazon)
❱❱ Breaker Bar - geni.us/V7Gf4 (Amazon)
❱❱ 1.5in socket - geni.us/ugrJJ (Amazon)
❱❱ Main Shaft Removal Tool - guess-works.com/Shop/Parts/dis...
❱❱ Rebuilt Gearboxes North America -www.7ent.com/pages/machine-sh...
❱❱ Rebuilt Gearboxes UK - guess-works.com/Shop/Gearbox/ Thanks for watching Classic Mini DIY! Please note Classic Mini DIY assumes no liability for property damage or injury incurred as a result of any of the information contained in this video. Classic Mini DIY recommends safe practices when working with power tools, automotive lifts, lifting tools, jack stands, electrical equipment, blunt instruments, chemicals, lubricants, expensive electronics, or any other tools or equipment seen or implied in this video. Due to factors beyond the control of Classic Mini DIY, no information contained in this video shall create any express or implied warranty or guarantee of any particular result. Any injury, damage, or loss that may result from improper use of these tools, equipment, or the information contained in this video is the sole responsibility of the user and not Classic Mini DIY. Only attempt your own repairs if you can accept personal responsibility for the results, whether they are good or bad. - ยานยนต์และพาหนะ
Thanks so much for this video. Will try to rebuild mine very soon
You’re very welcome! Good luck with the rebuild.
Nice work mate. Just a few points if I may? On the differential when you took off the RH side plate you were very lucky that the detent spring was glued in with muck. They can easily ping out and then that ball rolls out never to be seen again until a week after you buy a new one.
Also you should have noted if the differential cover had two gaskets either side. Some had gaskets and some just had sealer between the machined faces. A good guide is to check the casting number on the diff cover - If it has a '22G' prefix it will use gaskets and they need to be very carefully fitted and trimmed.
About removing the double mainshaft bearing - rather than use the large single spacer I used three thinner ones I made up out of wood and pushed the bearing out in three moves rather than one which meant the shaft didn't have to be knocked so far back and everything stayed in place. Just my way of doing it and something I learned on other gearboxes. It save more small parts getting lost.
And lastly the retaining plate for the double bearing and shim doesn't break it is the casting where the top LH (or front) bolt threads in. On later 'boxes they didn't drill and tap it and left out the bolt. They used the same plate but the top locking plate was different and just had a lip to locate in the unused bolt hole in the plate. Some just use thread lock. I would have that threaded hole welded to keep some strength back in it as it is a risk.
I do admire how Guessworks operates and he is a genuinely helpful guy. When I was rebuilding my Rod Change 'box recently I bought all my parts from him and it all went back perfectly.
Good luck Sir
absolutely fantastic video, i am now going to tackle my gearbox with confidence. thank you.
Fantastic, I am looking forward to watching this series
Cole, I’m gonna rebuild my gearbox early next year. Wicked video and well done on teaming up with guessworks. Will be messaging you soon for a collab
I thoroughly enjoyed this video thanks mate.
Thanks Cole, very informative
Wow Cole... Great video the gearboxes scare the life out of me!!!! Some serious skill there buddy well done!
Thanks man. I'm just good at hammering the shit outa stuff. I have some outakes where I whack the shit out of my hand I can send you if you wanna see an American get MAD.
Really useful video. The part showing the selector/interlock helped me save my gearbox! Thanks.
So glad it helped out! Good luck on your build. 🙂
When I did my '74 Norton motorcycle gearbox strip last year, the guidance I got was to always heat the alloy casing using a propane torch so that a misting of water would boil away, before trying to remove the interference fit bearings. With the alloy that hot, the bearing shells actually just fall out with gravity under their own weight or very light force.This saves the alloy case bearing seat from being damaged/opened out and properly holds the new pressed in bearing (again heat up the casing to fit the new bearings, some folks even freeze new bearing to further shrink bearing to help fitting into hot casing). Worked very nicely. Danger of rounding out the casing...the bearing will not hold fast/spin in the opening....not always apparent when reassembling but when the engine heats up and casing expands a bit bearing may spin.
I had to fix an oil leak around the speedohousing in the car. This was helpful.
great vid mate
Great job mate
Good video Cole.
Thank you!
Nice work!
Thank you!
Please Cole use a copper or brass drift when hammering shafts out of gearbox just so you don't dent or damage them
Good tip. Assuming this is because copper is a softer metal than the shafts? They all came out without damage for both the rod change and remote box this time but in the future I will use copper. 👍🏼
I'll add another voice to the 'GuessWorks is great' calling - I have dealt with John and he really is a pro!!
Good info Cole...
Thank you!
Guessworks have rebuilt my gearbox twice. The first time was after buying the gearbox for £50 and the second time was several years later when I needed to strip and rebuild the entire engine due to failing idler gear bearings. I can't fault Guessworks, the guys is a genius. However, having reached the age of 60, I feel like I need to learn how to strip & rebuild a gearbox on my own.
What your‘be done somes up the whole strip down well done.
However 😉 since the shop helped with the bearing removal on the end the best practice there is to use long nose pliers and remove each roller from the bearing and that allows the cage to come off so you can fit the socket over the rest of the bearing. Then lock out 2nd and 4th and hammer flat the lock tab behind the nut. Remove the circlip and Undoing the nut pushes the bearing away from the gear therefore allowing enough space to get a bearing puller in to do the rest of the work.
I fun next fun part is those little pins in the main shaft
Great video cole👍
Maybe so this on the remote gearbox you have as it’s the same
Thanks Cole. Many videos of building a gearbox but no one shows you how to take it apart!
Haha so true. If you watch my “Early 998” series I actually do some videos of disassembly as well. Namely some things NOT to do. 🤣
@@classicminidiy even after watching the video I still tried to drift out the mainshaft without removing the big circlip. At least it was only a few taps. I still think popping the flywheel is the most nerve racking.
Sea foam deep creep for the win. Douse the seized or corroded parts with it and it will make life so much easier
Good suggestion. I just suffered with all of it then handed it to my machine shop to glass blast it. :-)
@@classicminidiy nice. Great video, I may be tackling this soon on my own mini
Good vid - am a novice and may ask garage to do the rebuild - if there's play/movement in the diff and it knocks when you spin the front wheels when jacked up (and when going down road in a straight line) will it be obvious to the garage what's wrong when they open it all up? Or will it be a matter of looking at every single cog for issues? (hope that makes sense) Thanks, Greg in the UK
Possible gear box housing crack at 22:35? Right at oil pick up point? Maybe it is just grease/junk.
Hey Cole, I have a 64' Countryman with the "magic wand" shifter but the block is no good. I have a 998 block but I'm wondering if it will work with the gearbox. What's your thoughts?
Is the removal of gearbox of mini carburetor similar to this ?
Thanks mate
Cole - unless I have missed it, I can't see anywhere in your video how to remove the 1st motion shaft roller bearing? I have removed the mainshaft nut (as commented below) and thought that while I had everything locked up I should do the nut on the other side of the mainshaft, problem is there is a roller bearing in the way which needs to be pulled off?
Just looked back through the video, at 5:54 the circlip, roller roller bearing and nut are clearly still there and then at about 26:59 in the video when you turn the gearbox around and start on the other side of the Main Shaft the roller bearing, circlip and nut have disappeared. I cannot seem to find any info on the correct way to remove these items?
Where were you in 2015?? If this video was up then i would still have my mini.
I was making vids but definitely not comfortable enough to make gearbox ones at the time. 😅 sorry you don’t have your mini anymore. 😔
The selector is not going to the left as you say. Have I got a different model?
Hi Cole , like your channel , wish i had time and the place to work on my mini , I need help with my 998 auto classic mini
We only use it couple month a year to go on mini runs like L to B , I started the mini all run well , And started to hear rattling sound coming from the clutch cover area , I spoke to some mini guys by phone but not very helpful , Wanted me to take the mini there for them to have a look which i don t want to drive the car , Some one say it could be the oil pump , If you run the car that park up for a long time the pump can get dry, Need help if you have any idea how to fix this Thank you
How far did the 3 steel balls go flying when the center hub came out?
No comment...... :-D
Please advise what fluid is used to clean the gears and casing. This is quite important. Thanks
When disassembled they were all soda blasted or glass blasted. A simple non-corrosive degreaser was used prior to the blasting. The gearbox cannot be cleaned while fully assembled though, as once the cleaning fluid got into all the of the cracks and crevices it couldnt be removed completely and would contaminate the oil.
Off topic. But I have a 1275 spi I'm not getting any reading on the temp. I was wondering if you can remove the sensor from the inlet manifold without removing the manifold or am I taking the bad boy out? Thanks
TheToxicatedMonkey i have the same engine : you can but it ain’t easy
The most common leak is where the selector rod enters the box. I believe there is actually room for two seals in the recess.
Yup there is the two seal fix if you are doing the fix in situ however there is a nice kit that introduces an aluminum surround for the shift rod that really helps prevent leaks moving forward. I don’t like the rubber gaitor that comes with it though. Can cause gear engagement issues.
www.7ent.com/products/oil-seal-kit-rod-change-gearbox-mssk050.html
Does this engine use engine oil for gear box and differential ?
Yes it does. It’s all shared between the two
Can you also take apart the other type of gearboxes?
I plan to do a deep dive on the remote gearbox as well. As part of the early 998 rebuild. 👍🏼
@@classicminidiy Nice :) I currently have 2 minis one from 1989 with the gearbox you are rebuilding now (Sadly I'm selling the car) and one from 1970ish with the remote gearbox. so it will be nice to see both :)
Hopefully I do the remote box justice. I’ve never tackled one of them before so it will be a “learn by doing” kind of thing.
@@classicminidiy I will also be rebuilding one soon with no clue what I'm doing other than the massive service manuals (get one if you have not got one) Better than the Haynes manuals as they have all the engines, gearboxes as well as every single part number.
Do you have a link you could share?
That Milwaukee is not an electric impact wrench. It is an electric ratcheting wrench. Still a great tool though. I use it more than any other tool I own.
Where are you based
Why do a lot of those gears look straight cut?
Not sure it's all helical cut. Except the reverse gear I believe.
Classic Mini DIY actually your 1st gear definitely looks straight cut. I’m actually thinking about switching over to all straight cut gears, what’s your opinion?
Straight cut gears are cool and all, but what are you trying to accomplish? If its on a road car I would probably stick with helical gears. More comfortable in everyday driving imo.
Here is a good comparison that really dives into the weeds and compares them.
th-cam.com/video/Zy4kYFWZ1_g/w-d-xo.html
i like to call it a windy gun
I read that as windy like a gust of wind. Blowing the bolts off. :-)
@@classicminidiy lol , no I meant Windy gun as in using the power of compressed air for an air powered Impact gun. Out of interest did you ask the shop who undid the nut to try and undo it with there impact gun, because I've always thought they were the more powerful ones , and maybe your electric one didn't have enough torque? Im guessing they found a way to hold gearbox in place and use massive breaker bar to do it ?
Why don't you spray the total gearbox with penetrating lube. I've never strip a powertrain of any kind, rusted or not, without using it!
I've been turning wrenches for more than fifty years. Anything to make is safer and easier and cheaper overall! ATF/ACE can make it simpler to clean.
Yeah thin king back to this a soaked oily gearbox would have made taking it apart much easier for sure. Next time!
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Loves to talk hates to work. Metal hammer on a cast part. Really.