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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 30 มิ.ย. 2024
- Follow us in this eposide as we put together the race engine for our Classic Mini Clubman GT race care. We take a look at crankshaft instilation, piston assemblies and camshaft timing.
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Apologies for the mic ruffling noises. It was fighting with our new Hickey Race Engineeering Shirts. We'll have it sorted for our next video
Can you do me a favour? I found episode 3 of this list and obviously wanted to start from episode 1. When you make a new video in a series, could you put a link to the previous video in the description. Itll make life a lot easier to find the earlier ones. Ta much 😊
I’m absolutely loving this ! I’m a mini man from the sixties and really enjoy the exactness of your approach.
Hi Todd, glad your enjoying the work and great to hear from you 👍
Best rebuilt i have ever seen. Precise explaination and great video with great explaination.
I will be referring to this video again fairly shortly 😁😁 really great video as always
No problem Matt, you have a job ahead of you 👍👍
Been trying to time my cam today, so this video is a great memory jogger. Thank you and Merry Christmas
Delighted it helped. I need to do a bigger video on it in the new year but glad it helped get you on the right track 👍
really good , thanks
lovely video as always. keep them coming! and merry christmas ;)
Thanks Luis and the same to you
Hi, I just wanted to comment on the math: 166 + 85 = 221 not 212, so your final engine timing seems to be 110.5deg...
Hi Paul, Really enjoy how you make do just fine with the machines you have in your workshop. Have you done a video on Compression Ratios. Im told that there is an APP for Dynamic CR Cheers Tom Connolly
Very nice, you look like a professional technical trainer.
But let me just make a suggestion, use the gauge perpendicularly (90 degrees) with the piston for better accuracy.
I have a doubt, isn’t more accurate to time the valve opening time with the engine head in place and measure directly in the top of the valve ?
I think it’s more accurate because you are seeing the result of all the gaps in the mechanical elements from the camshaft to the valve spring. Valve gap influence valve opening time……
What do you think?
I’m subscribing this channel just for the quality of this video, thanks 🙏
new to your channel,building 2 engines atm,,a fast road 998,12g295 plus sw5,and a stage 3 1380 with sw8 and twin hs4s, you have a good approach to building,different to a few others ive seen,takes me a few minutes to get my head around newton meters and mm's as used to ft lbs and thou..good work,i'll watch a few more of yours for sure,crack on fella..
Hi Buddy great job, any questions we have a live Q&A coming up this week come join us if you can and id be happy to hear more about the engines 👍
Nice motors
@@HREIRL had the strangest thing happen this week never come across it before just wondered if you had..removed core plugs ready for the hot tank.usual punch in the corner to spin them and pull out..these were being buggers..eventually twisted and then realised why..the block has a half inch inner shoulder which I have now broken!..drilled the others out and pulled them with slide hammer.to remedy this I'll have to fit the 41.4mm Cooper ones luckily same size..never come across this before..block is a 74..cheers Nige..
Installs the camshaft horizontally -er, no - installs it vertically.
Great videos and thanks for the detailed info. Quick one regarding the crank end float. You said you run 0.05 - 0.07 mm which is 2 to 3 thou. In the video you set it at 0.05 mm (2 thou). Cole over at Classic Mini DIY built his bad wolf supercharged mini with 2 thou clearance which is in line with the Haynes manual spec but he said that it was too tight, the Haynes manual was wrong and that 5 - 7 thou was what it should be set to. That would be 0.127 - 0.178 mm. What are thoughts on this?
I actually found your channel through Cole’s channel as you’re doing a Q&A with him shortly. Really looking forward to that. Maybe you can discuss crank end float. I’m building a 1275 A+ myself soon so anxious to get a better understanding of what correct end float should be.
Thanks again
Hi Andrew, so basically the short answer to this is. The crankshafts in my race engines are ground and balanced to a very tight tolerance. Meaning when the crank spins 360 across the thrust face there is no run out. in this situation I can get away with 2-3 thou. A standard ish crank like Cole might have used is more likely to have 2-3 thou run out across the cheeks of the thrust faces. which means it can tighten when rotated or when the clutch is depressed. remind me the weekend in chat and Ill try explain a bit more 👍
So how did you move the cam timing? Jumping a tooth would be too much. I did not see an adjustment on the sprocket. On the TR3 engine they had 2 sets of bolt holes and you could flip the sprocket over giving you a range of adjustment. Off set Key?
Great video. Can I ask why you are using a single chain rather than a duplex? I thought chain stretch would be more likely in a high revving race engine?
Hi Andy thanks so much, Ya we use these single row chains because they are specifically designed to handle the forces of a race engine. they are very light and take a lot of pressure off the Valve train which is why we went that way :)
at one point you say ,,, kent say 106 after tdc , and then at the end its 106 before tdc ,,, that may be a tad confusing to some folk ,,,
may be worthy of a correction
Another great video.
I plan on rebuilding my engine later in the year.
Can you recommend what spec torque wrenches I should buy.
I've already got one that goes to 150ft/lb.
It's only a cheap one. Would you recommend buying decent torque wrenches or even electronic ones.
Many thanks Neil
Hi Neil, I use Norbar Torque wrenches I have 3 to cover all bases on the mini. 2-20NM 15-80NM and then the big gun 80-250NM. You could get away with a more universal one say 20-150NM sykes pickavent make a super accurate wrench at a fraction of the cost of the Norbar wrench’s I use,which would work perfect for some who is only building a few engines thanks for stopping buy keep us updated on your progress 👍
That's great info. Many thanks.
I bought a cheap one from Machine Mart when I was doing the dry build but now the cars being painted I want a decent one to do the final rebuild, so thanks for the advice.
I'll check them out.
Very good video. I am unsure of how you timed your cam as it was not shown after your calculation of 106 on the button.
Hi Soo, I will soon have a full Tutorial on camshaft timing in my School over on my website. Stay tune to the channel for the release announcement 👍
@@HREIRL did you ever get the timing video done ?
How did you adjust the 102.5 reading to the required 106? I'm guessing you used offset woodruff keys? Well I don't see any vernier adjust on the timing sprocket :)
The timing gear kit I'm using on this motor has a multi key way drive sprocket which has a +1, 2, 5 and -1,2,5 deg adjustment built in so I can just pop off the sprocket and turn the rear to the right position 👍
Whats the lift of the race camshaft u use .
I found a old race engine and had a huge camshaft . Huge lift .. 1100cc. Bored 40" . .knife edge crank
Yes Sir question for you i am using a kent 286 what offset key should i use to get the 106 timing.
Noticed you are using an oil can with Castrol markings. Does that mean you like to use Castrol, or do you use another brand? ( 20W/50? )
I love Castrol and have been using Castrol R40 for years as my go to engine assembly lube 👍
PS; also noticed you are using a 4 bolt centre pain cap, but only using 2 bolts....?
Hi Gavin, at the time of filming unfortunately I couldn't get my hands on the bolts I wanted due to covid restrictions, I can assure it now has 4 12.9 cap heads holding it together 👍 keen eyes
I’m slightly surprised that you are using a simplex timing chain. Both the Cooper S and 1275 GT engines in my day always had duplex sprockets and chains as the simplex chains used to stretch, with the accompanying rattle and presumable inaccurate cam timing. There must be a reason for your choice??
Greeting from Barbados would it be effective to use that water system from the head to the radiator on as road car.
You are most welcome from Barbados I imagine its slightly warmer there than here haha. It would work equally as well on a road car as long as it dose not have an internal heater
@@HREIRL I really don't use the internal cooler down here so i can put the pipe on the Rad any where or is there a specific way.
Would i have to semi deck also or it would work well also.
@@tyronecorbin9982 it should work with out doing any physical modifications the semi dry deck only helps things along
But you never described the cam timing .. just 'we move the wheel around' .. how? Offset keys I guess, but surely it's important!!!!
I sure you know you meant 5.5 thou bolt stretch.. not 55.
Great spot You are most correct 5 thousands. Completely missed that 👍
Hi Paul, what is the fixture on top of the block which has a spring incorporated and is holding the pushrod please?
It is a little jig I made up a few years ago for helping to measure Camshaft timing. it just basically keeps the push rod pressed hard down to the cam lobe so I can vary accurately see any movement of the lifter
Thanks Paul, another clever idea! I wonder how many of us have had daft readings on the dti because the follower has not been in firm contact with the lobe. Thanks once more. Nigel.
But there is no adjustment on those timing gears. All you did was verify that it was correct. Also, why did you not have a chain tensioner fitted when checking?
It’s a swift Tune Simplex FULLY adjustable Timing chain Kit there George there is multiple key ways in the drive sprocket all 1 and 1.5 degrees apart so by simply taking off the gear and repositioning it in a different slot advances or retards the cam. 👍 no requirement for tensioner in this kit the chains are changed every 20 hours
Good evening i am building a 1380 road engine what is the best clearance i should used after boring.
That would depend very much on the Pistons you are going to use
@@HREIRL Power Max