Setting Primary Gear End Float - Classic Mini Cooper
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 8 เม.ย. 2020
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In today's episode we will be covering the process by which you set your Primary Gear Endfloat. An often overlooked but extremely important task that should be part of any Classic Mini engine build.
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❱ Parts in this Episode:
29 Tooth Primary Gear: cmdiy.co/29ToothPrimary
Feeler Gauge: geni.us/RLB0w (Amazon)
Retaining Ring: cmdiy.co/RetainingRing
C-Clip: cmdiy.co/cClipRetainer
Thrust Washers: cmdiy.co/ThrustWashers Thanks for watching Classic Mini DIY! Please note Classic Mini DIY assumes no liability for property damage or injury incurred as a result of any of the information contained in this video. Classic Mini DIY recommends safe practices when working with power tools, automotive lifts, lifting tools, jack stands, electrical equipment, blunt instruments, chemicals, lubricants, expensive electronics, or any other tools or equipment seen or implied in this video. Due to factors beyond the control of Classic Mini DIY, no information contained in this video shall create any express or implied warranty or guarantee of any particular result. Any injury, damage, or loss that may result from improper use of these tools, equipment, or the information contained in this video is the sole responsibility of the user and not Classic Mini DIY. Only attempt your own repairs if you can accept personal responsibility for the results, whether they are good or bad. - ยานยนต์และพาหนะ
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Cole, The engine is looking sweet it‘s a great idea to do the engine build in sections like this as your viewers can type in exactly
what there looking for and get the information quickly, I must learn how to change the thumbnail lol, Cheers Dave
Nice video Cole!!
Man, I cannot tell you how much this video helped me to get my new bushed primary gear on the crank shaft in the right way! Fantastic video - key was the hint to remove the burrs from the crank shaft; after I did this the gear swapped over perfectly! Thank you very much from Hamburg, Joerg
Nice 'short' vid Cole to cover said topic 😊
I was checking my primary gear end float on my 998 that I am re-building at the weekend and discovered that it was way out at 0.009". What I discovered was that the retaining C clip and ring were badly worn and not the thrust washer which was already at 0.117". There is probably 0.004 - 0.006" wear on those retaining parts alone. I am going to replace those first and see where that leaves the end float before changing the thrust washer.
I'm familiar with setting up the correct end float, but I had never had a clue why it is so important. Even if there was a millimeter axial play I can not imagine any downsides.
Given that they are helical gears, they are subject to sideways thrust, so with excessive play, you get clunking between accelerating & decelerating.
hey, this is out of order on the supercharged classic mini playlist. should be swapped with building a boosted classic mini engine - part 2
I have gotten to this part of my engine build but I don't have the primary gear thrust washer and need to order one but at £21 for 1 i don't want to buy more than 1 so would you suggest following the steps you are doing but use feeler gauge to measure the total thickness and then minus 0.003-0.004 thou
For a higher performance engines you're better off going for the higher end of spec due to heat generation. I set my 175hp turbo to 5 thou.
Heat generation? That's a new one. I love comments sections.
Totally agree 5 to 6 thou clearance on a high out put engine.
@@bernardbouchereau215 why
@@Dagowly83 It's not a force lubricated part so heat build up will be significant. It's no different to valves pinching in valve guides when they get too hot. It's why the metro turbo engine had sodium filled valves. More powerful engines run hotter so certain tolerances should be larger.
@@Dagowly83 as below 100%. Its due to the heat build up and expansion. They can lock up if to tight. Also damage the seal.
I'm needing my primary bushings replaced and reamed.. I'm assuming you didn't send your crank to john.. how did you do it?
He reams them to standard spec so assuming your crank hasn’t been ground down (like my old one was) you’ll be able to send your primary gear into him and he can ream to standard spec.
i used to work at a BL main dealer, we just used feeler gauges to check end float, have you done idler gear endfloat yet ?.
Good to hear about the feelers at your shop. Yup idler gear was done outside the video as that process has been covered before in my earlier gearbox builds. 👍🏼
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First! 😂