As an FYI to anyone building and putting the cam followers in, the MINIMUM you should be putting on is assembly lube. Ideally you need cam lube as it's a greater viscosity and will aid the bedding in process of the camshaft when you first start it and hold it at 2-2.5k rpm. Do not use engine oil!!
Bluetak works well for checking valve clearance guide when you assemble and turn it over once with a little wd40 you get a nice disc that you can see how much clearance you have. It’s better then playdo as it doesn’t seperate or get pushed down around the piston and side wall.
Of course I forgot to mention it means pulling on and off the head a couple of times and do it before you put the head gasket on and take into account the gasket thickness when you measure your bluetak.
Cole, a quick one mate, your rocker pillar studs (4 thinner ones that hold the rocker assembly in) are out of order on your engine. The taller ones are at 2 and 4 on your engine, they need to be at 1 and 4 as the rocker cover bolts on to them.
Nice engine build tutorial, easy to follow step by step, how do you go about installing the cam followers on the later engines that don't have the covers and is an engine stand advisable to rebuild the engine or can it be done with out it?
I don't know about those studs for fastening cylinder head to block, as the nut with its thin wall has to take up all that tensile strain. Straight bolts would be better. Most British vehicles had studs, I am not sure weather it was for the ease of mass production at the factory or the block is thin walled to take a bolt - leading to cracking if a bolt was used. If I have an engine like this, I would look into using bolts.....of the right material and machining.
I was taught that keeping in the same order ensures they go back to where they already have uniform wear on the other components they touch. That's probably not TOTALLY needed but I like to disturb as few things when I take engines apart. Helps keep me from losing them too. Haha
I've been searching a bit and it seems that torques are different for A+ engines and also if they are 1275 or Rover era ones, so . 42 lb was the torque before 1967. 50 lb for 1000 A+ even 54 for latest 1275's@@classicminidiy
Hi, why setting again those horrible sintered rockers, with such a good job on that engine! Maybe not the rollers one, but a good forged real 1.3 ratio would have been a good thing ;)
Awww they aren't that bad. Plus the worked and I didn't wanna spend another few hundred dollars on something I can upgrade later if I decide these aren't good enough.
Classic Mini DIY Got it! I think I would upgrade that in the near future. In your opinion is possible to change the e tire assembly whitout stripping down the entire head to avoid asimetrical loads while unlocking only some head bolts? Thank you in advance ;-)
First
Looking forward to next episode on this build. Thanks muchly for posting this series. 👍
As an FYI to anyone building and putting the cam followers in, the MINIMUM you should be putting on is assembly lube. Ideally you need cam lube as it's a greater viscosity and will aid the bedding in process of the camshaft when you first start it and hold it at 2-2.5k rpm. Do not use engine oil!!
Bluetak works well for checking valve clearance guide when you assemble and turn it over once with a little wd40 you get a nice disc that you can see how much clearance you have. It’s better then playdo as it doesn’t seperate or get pushed down around the piston and side wall.
Of course I forgot to mention it means pulling on and off the head a couple of times and do it before you put the head gasket on and take into account the gasket thickness when you measure your bluetak.
Cole, a quick one mate, your rocker pillar studs (4 thinner ones that hold the rocker assembly in) are out of order on your engine. The taller ones are at 2 and 4 on your engine, they need to be at 1 and 4 as the rocker cover bolts on to them.
Oh good looking out. Man that woulda been annoying to get to the VC stage and not being able to screw it on. Thank you.
Nice engine build tutorial, easy to follow step by step, how do you go about installing the cam followers on the later engines that don't have the covers and is an engine stand advisable to rebuild the engine or can it be done with out it?
Another great viddie buddy
Hi.can i drop a 1000 mini motor into the Wolseley 1155 body and what chalenges wiil i encounter?
Hello,
nice video. The link for the valve adjustment does not popup. Could you post it?
Thanks for the heads up. Here it is: th-cam.com/video/yI0R__ZwNbs/w-d-xo.html
I'm currently rebuilding my engine and following along - I got all my parts from 7mini. I wish I had known about the coupon code though..... :(
I don't know about those studs for fastening cylinder head to block, as the nut with its thin wall has to take up all that tensile strain. Straight bolts would be better. Most British vehicles had studs, I am not sure weather it was for the ease of mass production at the factory or the block is thin walled to take a bolt - leading to cracking if a bolt was used. If I have an engine like this, I would look into using bolts.....of the right material and machining.
why do the pushrods have to be put in the same order that they were taken out?
I was taught that keeping in the same order ensures they go back to where they already have uniform wear on the other components they touch. That's probably not TOTALLY needed but I like to disturb as few things when I take engines apart. Helps keep me from losing them too. Haha
What colour green is the block ?
Sorry but what did this rebuild cost I total?
All the best great vids
Seven provided a discount on the parts for this build but most rebuilds cost between $700 - $1500 for a good standards or slightly fast road spec.
@@classicminidiy thanks again. Appreciate it
Doesn't the Haynes manual say the torque for the cylinder head is 50 lb-ft?
Mine reads 40 ft/lbs for 850cc - 998cc and then 42 ft/lbs 1100cc and up.
I've been searching a bit and it seems that torques are different for A+ engines and also if they are 1275 or Rover era ones, so . 42 lb was the torque before 1967. 50 lb for 1000 A+ even 54 for latest 1275's@@classicminidiy
is there a next part to this video? i cant find it
Looks like I broke the playlist these were on. Here is the finale, which is the episode after this one.
th-cam.com/video/uxPTsKetMa0/w-d-xo.html
Thanks a lot!
how come your 998 is an A+? the engine block has those strengthening ribs on
I am not sure what you mean? This is just the block my friend bought. 998's came in the A+ variety, and this is not from my 1960 Mini.
They have. Only 1275 don't have tappet covers @kevin paul halliday
Hi, why setting again those horrible sintered rockers, with such a good job on that engine! Maybe not the rollers one, but a good forged real 1.3 ratio would have been a good thing ;)
Awww they aren't that bad. Plus the worked and I didn't wanna spend another few hundred dollars on something I can upgrade later if I decide these aren't good enough.
Classic Mini DIY Got it! I think I would upgrade that in the near future. In your opinion is possible to change the e tire assembly whitout stripping down the entire head to avoid asimetrical loads while unlocking only some head bolts? Thank you in advance ;-)
I would take all the head bolts off personally as you need to retorque it back down in the correct pattern.