How To Bend and Flare Brake Lines -EricTheCarGuy
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 4 ต.ค. 2024
- If you find yourself needing to replace a brake line you might consider bending and flaring one up yourself. It's much less expensive to do it this way. It's not without it's challenges, but it can be very satisfying if you're able to do the job. This process will also work for fuel and transmission lines.
Camera: Brian Kast
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Eastwood Flare Tool: www.eastwood.co...
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Due to factors beyond the control of EricTheCarGuy, it cannot guarantee against unauthorized modifications of this information, or improper use of this information. EricTheCarGuy assumes no liability for property damage or injury incurred as a result of any of the information contained in this video. EricTheCarGuy recommends safe practices when working with power tools, automotive lifts, lifting tools, jack stands, electrical equipment, blunt instruments, chemicals, lubricants, or any other tools or equipment seen or implied in this video. Due to factors beyond the control of EricTheCarGuy, no information contained in this video shall create any express or implied warranty or guarantee of any particular result. Any injury, damage or loss that may result from improper use of these tools, equipment, or the information contained in this video is the sole responsibility of the user and not EricTheCarGuy.
I know this is 9 years late, so it's for anyone who stumbles upon this video for tips/education: to prevent fluid from dripping and running the system dry, depress the brake pedal and use a stick or something to hold it, before starting work. The outlets on the master cylinder is then closed/covered by the pistons, and prevents any fluid from moving.
Great tip!
Ah yes, I've used a 25lb dumbbell for that. 😂
Eric, i want to thank you from the bottom of my heart. I have been learning from your videos since i started my automotive career 6 years ago. You are amazing at what you do. Dont ever stop teaching
Kind words!
Dang man, why did you have to remind me how much better TH-cam was in 2012... good times.
Nice video Eric. You impress me with your humility and your willingness to show on camera some of your minor mistakes when under taken a new project for the first time. I think that's one of the things that makes your video series so successful is that people can relate to you.
Hello Eric. Just a quick tip for you and your viewers. Any time I'm bending out steel lines. Be they for transmission cooler supply, brake, etc. I never fully complete the bend, regardless of whether it's 45° - 90° or whatever. I leave the longest straight side without the fitting and install the fitting on the other side first. Once I'm finished with all of my rough bends. I start to install the line. I then place a tube bending sping on the end that doesn't have the fitting installed yet. I run the spring tool all the way up to the other side of the line (sometimes you may have to unbolt a cab. Jack and prop it a few inches to make installation a little easier). From there, I "fine tune" the bend with the tube bending spring. Until I get to the "open" end of the line. I then remove the spring tool. I place the fitting on the open end and flare it accordingly. After both ends of the line are secured, I proceed with the fastening.
Working on a brake line right now and it's taken me about 4 hours to get 8 minutes into this video because I keep pausing to try your tips. Thanks, man!
Great job, I am starting mine later, wish me luck!
Great video. I had a bad line in the past. The easiest way to repair it was by using a flaring tool and installing a flare union. Much less work than changing out the entire brake line, and when done properly you will not have any problems.
Great video. There's a method I use when I'm gonna have the brake line disconnected for a long time (a few hours work) is to pull the brake lamp fuse and jam a 2x4 on the brake pedal. This pushes the master cylinder forward into a compression stroke but also closes all open valves to the master cylinder reservoir. This setup lets you work completely dry. Alternatively, if you need to slow a flow and are working fast and you don't wanna hunt for the fuse. You can use a cable cutter to crimp the line in a few places that you're anyway going to replace and when your ready for the fitting use a normal pipe cutter. Thanks for all the great videos.
Good tips
I just bought a 1981 Ford Fairmont Futura Wagon and your videos make ALL the difference for me. THANK YOU!
Thank you for your videos. I do all my own repairs also and I an constantly getting cars ready for the crusher and making them road ready again just because I live doing it. You're videos have taught me so much and always add a bit of knowledge for me. Currently replacing brake lines on a 93 Festiva and this video will help.
Been liking this project so far. Really like the camera angles and editing like others have said. Very educational for us that aren't so savvy. Keep it up!
Eric has a really good technique in his production. He isn't condescending talks straight; lets you know what can go wrong and what you can do to avoid problems. He's honest and tells you the difficulties and errors he has made so you won't make them.
I was wondering if you heat up the ends before flaring would it be easier! シ
Nice job Eric! You taught and ole dog a new new trick, I have always tape the two lines together as I when which causes some problems because sometimes in the bending process the new and old line get tangled up. With 2 or 3 sets of vice grips like you showed, you can get the lines apart and right back together again as I move along. Nice! One thing I have found is that I always start in the middle, or with the very hardest bend first and work to the ends, I have several pieces of #10 copper wire coil up and use it to the forming of a model first for shape and length it don't work harden as fast and coils back easily. Thanks again!
What a great video on servicing and making a steel break line! They have little tube benders are cheap and easier to use than the pliers (although they don't make quite as tight turns).
What I did, the one time I ever did anything like this (and this is just another option -- not saying better or worse), is cut out the bad section (like the compression fitting in this video) and buy a 12-inch section with the fittings already flared on for literally just a couple of bucks at advance auto. I used the crappy rental tool to flare and add new fittings onto the factory line. (It DOES work; just takes a little elbow grease, especially doing it upside down) Then I was able to attach it all together with 2 flare unions.
For anyone who doubts Eric's advice on using a flare wrench on these fittings... the first time you round one off like I did that one time, you'll immediately be on your way to harbor freight to buy a set.
This video helped me gain some confidence. I will be doing this on my Honda CRV, which both the fuel and brake lines are completely rusted. I would rather swap out the engine and transmission if I'm honest. However, I will definitely invest in better tools and check out your review video. Thanks Eric!. Also just want to say your videos are worth every penny and more. Who knows, someone watching this might realize their rusty brake lines could give out any moment. You helped save a life.
You're right, Eric, bending and routing brake lines is an art. Needed to replace several on my 77 El Camino; both rears, and one from the MC to a front caliper, all rusted into oblivion from living near a beach most of it's life.
It too several tries to get them even remotely right, and even then, they looked like a 3 year old drew them with a crayon.
The stuff you see on professional builds, with the coils and perfectly molded bends are truly a work of art.
I eventually gave up, as every time I'd replace a hose or line, another would go. Eventually sold the thing with a torn rear rubber line, but obviously I mentioned it to the new owner. It tore because someone used a line too short, and jacking up the rear not on the diff would pull it taught.
When putting the new brake line in, I tape the ends of the line closed, so while shoving them through places they do not fill with dirt. Most customers cars are not that clean.
Now this is a gem of knowledge.
Eric, as usual, is spot on, well spoken and to-the-point... Thanks again!
Hey Eric..I know I have made some douchey comments in the past..lol but I have to give you some love on this one. As a professional tech, I totally agree with you that its best to replace brake lines with factory bent ones if and whenever possible. Of course this is not always possible. Boat trailers with hydraulic lines are a good example. Even with all the room you had to work with under the hood of your fairmont, that was still ALOT of bends you had to make. Modern cars are much worse. In fact, even though brake system repairs are considered first year apprentice stuff in this trade, I can honestly say that the worst days I have ever had in this trade have been making replacement lines. I would rather rebuild a transmission blindfolded than make custom brake lines lol. The time lapse portion of this video was a good example of the effort and skill it takes to do this. If you don't have the patience or that little bit of artistic flare that it takes to make these lines look "just right" it can seriously drive you nuts doing this :) Also, I have been a pretty vocal critic of "tool review videos" but I have watched the review you did on this brake line tool, and seeing it in action in this video I must say that the tool made it look pretty damn easy. I have used a lot of cheap and frustrating flaring tools before, but this one looks pretty sweet. Anyways, this video was very helpful for anyone wanting to tackle this ridiculous procedure. Lol. But if you value your sanity, find a dude who specializes in this kind of repair and make him your best friend :)
wrong its best to replace any fuel line or brake line with Nicopp
On fairly old vehicles there is room to work but on many newer ones, it's far more work to try to feed a pre-bend cable into the assembled vehicle, obviously varying vehicle by vehicle, how many things are in the way of the bends and how much is reasonable to remove instead of bending your own, which doesn't look as pretty but can cut the work in half or more, again on newer vehicles, say anything made in the last 15 years.
Eric another great video and it always nice to see new tools funny back in the 1960's I first learned to do just what you just did and flaring a brake line took a bit more time and I haven't seen anyone use the older tools on TH-cam .. That was a great point about practice first as I have had to toss more then one line in my days .. So Dirty and keep the videos coming ....
This guy is awesome. Anytime I'm looking for something related one of his video's usually comes up. Great stuff Eric! Thanks.
Great video! Recently replaced brake lines on a 94 Ranger. Used nickel-copper tubing instead of steel and had a lot easier time. It's very forgiving and you can almost form it on the vehicle. Costs more but well worth the time saved.
I watched this video years ago and I just bought a flare tool so I lined it up again to watch!
What can I say - thanks! Your video helped give me the confidence to go ahead and replace a brake line in our tracker. Hand bending and all, it was a good morning's work. Half of that was dealing with the old rusted fittings! Anyway, I went ahead and flushed all the fluid, as it came out looking like thanksgiving gravy...
Amazing, thank you Eric.
God bless you and the family, all your viewers love ones as well.
Seriously love the camera angles. You're a pro! Thank you Eric!
I made 2 lines for my prelude when I went to the larger master cylinder, brake booster and front calipers. Bending and flaring was nerve racking but I made it look pretty good and it worked perfectly. Nice video. 😊
If you do a bunch of flaring I recommend the eastwood bench flare tool. Its pricy but I've never had a bad flare from it.
I just made a replacement line for my lift pump on my old diesel tractor by doing just stage 1 of the 5/16 double flare. The bubble flares from this tool work great as a hose barb.
The bender, I got one from summit that can bend 180* and never had a problem from it.
The eastwood forming pliers are great for tweaking lines once installed but they also leave a little crush point in tubing.
I always make an estimate on the length then add plenty so I don't come up short. Then I flare one end, thread the line through its route. Starting one the end I have already flared and fastened I work it by hand fastening it down with clamps as I go. I flare the other end on the car when finished bending. Sometimes pre-bending a line doesn't allow it to be threaded through its route. Also it is very difficult to get accurate pre- bent bends, which is why the line kinked in this video. It wasn't accurately bent to begin with. Bottom line.....bend as you go works much better in my experience.
Great video, brake lines are always a tedious task to replace... Oddly enough most shops hate doing it, so it is easy $$$ once you master the flaring and bending. Speaking of bends, a simple tube bender will do wonders. No reason any kinks (like around 29 min mark) should ever exist! On tubing from 5-7mm (3/16 - 1/4 inch), I find that 4cm (or about 1.5 inch) diameter is the smallest you can go before kinks are just inevitable. Bending and working brake lines is more of an art then a skill IMHO.
Sometimes... you have to think ahead of your bends, and perform some before others so your tool does not become stuck.
how about using different round pully's for your bends?
You’re the dude, Eric. Much respect
Awesome video Eric, very didactic, thumbs up!!! The kinked line as we all know if because of the hand bending, and you precisely covered the se considerations, thumbs up again!!
This was a great video! Thnx for providing your thought processes and practical tips. VERY helpful! And thnx to your camera man. Great job!
Great video ! I put flex seal on my pipes to keep them from the elements. Thanks EricTheCarGuy
Learning something new about brake lines. Need to replace all 4 on my car as 1 is leaking and the others aren't too far behind (Michigan road salt and winter weather) using NiCu (Nickel Copper) over steel lines and replace all of the rubber lines to play it safe.
Great video. Hoping to do this myself someday. If/when the time comes I'm sure I'll be watching this video again.
Thanks for posting. I found a leak on the rear lines of my '97 Silverado, so I'll be re-watching your video!
Hi Eric I have done many brake lines over the years and had a lot of success with a cheap pipe bender which has degree markings on, well worth the investment. you use the pliers for tight bends and the benders for neat
Bends,you can get a factory Finnish in time I use just regular masking tape to cover the open pipe I also disconnect the battery as I have made some perfect brake pipes in the past only to have a hole blown in the side by it shorting out on the starter terminals . only use a professional flairing tool as the cheap ones are useless, its just practice keep up the good work.
A friend of mine once told me he had a small fire in his engine bay because the battery came loose, tilted in a corner and shorted to a piece of brake line. Electrics went out and when he opened the hood he saw a red hot brake line with burning brake fluid spraying out!!! Weird stuff :-)
antiekeradio Oh yes brake fluid is not good when there's an ignition source
Many years ago i came across a brake system where the brake light switch was a pressure switch T-eed into the brake line and when the seal in the switch leaked into the contact area the switch used to explode and leave the vehicle with no brakes. The first time i was called out to this i was puzzled
as to what had happened. This happened a few times after that which called for a modification ASAP!!!
That is the exact recall reason Ford used. Ford had multiple instances of vehicle fires caused by brake switch failure.
Great video, came back here to watch it again because now about a year later I actually have the line and tools. Making brake lines in the beginning is harder than it looks but once you learn the skill and get good at it you’ll be able to save a lot of money. It’s definitely important to have some practice line as he said, both for the bending and for the flaring, especially if you’re not buying the vice tool. For me flaring isn’t much of an issue, it’s the bending. I need use my practice line (which will probably be used to bleed master) to learn how to use the bending tool and to experiment around with the flare tool.
This could not have been better timed. My friend is going to replace the pipe he kinked when removing the rubber tube from my car tomorrow so this will help greatly! Thanks
Nice work. Glad to see the process. Thanks for showing us. Next time I'd also like to learn how to include the gravel guard (spring wrap) in the process.
I start in the middle and work out towards the ends then cut and flare to length. Leaving enough material at both ends to complete job. Works better for me.
I bled out my master cylinder. What a mess. Thanks to your video about crimping the line, it will never happen again.
Great camera angles. I certainly agree with leaving it a little long -- if your flare failed, you want the opportunity to do it again.
Well done I'd suggest some tape or a plastic cap over the end while installing the line to keep the crud out
Your camera work is amazing.
Fencing wire is a beautiful thing. Cheap, easy to cut, easier to bend
good video Ive done more brake lines than I care to count love the flaring tool you have Im still using the old style but it works for me. I also just buy the straight lines and cut to fit or add them together to get them longer. The one break tool I have splurged on is a Motive pressure bleeder works on clutches too
Only a minute and a half in - I commend you for correctly pronouncing the word "Template."
Eric, you know Mommy Dearest said, "NO MORE WIRE HANGERS!!!!" Been there, done that. Just lots of fitting and bending with an much planning as you can. Done this for both brake and power steering lines. Never seen a real clear reason for OEM location and bending of lines that couldn't do with a bit of tweaking. Still, pulling the OEM line first for a template helps a lot. Thanks for the video!!!
what i have used in the past to measure brake lines is some string and tape, u attach the string to the factory brake line and tape it down at every now and then. i know it may seem weird but it worked for me.
Thanks for doing this video Eric Nice work. I found this as I had to make a brake line for my Mercury.
How To Bend and Flare Brake Lines -EricTheCarGuy love the camera angle used here
Another very helpful video Eric
Great video. Learned why proportioning valve is used. The work looked easier to perform than I initially thought. Thank you.
Hello Eric, in regards to keeping the Brake Master Cylinder from Bleeding out... No need to Cap-Off Open Lines or Pinch-Off Rubber Brake Hoses. All you need to do is partially depress the Brake Pedal (Pry Bar or 2x4 of appropriate length against the Seat) enough to effectively Block-Off the Ports within the Brake Master. Works on all Hydraulic Brake Systems. Note: some Vehicles will power on the Brake Lights, in this situation you can Pull the Fuse or Disconnect the Battery. Randy AKA: randog311 / Pro Wrench since 1974 Audi's are my Specialty
Hi Eric...thanks for the video on brake lines, one of many i have watched as i am replacing the whole brake line system on a 1947 GMC , Modified, with 350, power steering, AC, power brakes and front discs on a 68 Firebird frame... all finished . No way to find OEM brake lines. A whole new wiring kit is next much of which will be channeled next to brake lines to the rear. Wish me luck !
8:35 Better still: I made a small number (2?) of hydraulic plugs, using old compression nuts and some JB Quick epoxy. Perfect for long-term brake line blocking.
For most Honda Civics, they'll be 10x1mm threads, so I store them with the rest of my 1mm pitch bolts. I'm saying all this because that means you can also use any 10x1mm bolt, though they are not easy to find.
I just did this. 👍
How to measure brake lines without using coat hangers. Use a string and measure it through and you'd get a pretty good, if not rough, estimate.
Thanks Eric for this great video ❗️
I don't play golf, but I've found that golf tee's work really well as a temporary plug for brake lines and other lines.
this video may be very old but it helped me a bunch. the only thing i did different was use a rubber hose to bend the tubing. most kinks are made from putting pressure on the line at a high angle over a small area, i used a 3/8 rubber fuel hose to make the bends nice. they won't be perfect but if you don't have the space or time to use a bending tool it does the trick.
There are so many ways to draw the brake line. The way you suggests is perhaps the one most people strives for. Other method is just connect the line from a starting point to the end, and do the bends as the line is drawn ( I did so and it worked out perfectly ...)
If you cap one end of the brake line before you start bending and then fill it with either salt or sugar then cap off the end you just filled with. That will make your line KINK PROOF. It is a old backyard mechanic trick my Grandfather taught me. Works real well. Try it sometime!
Don't know what part of the country you're from, but in the rust belt, it's really difficult to loosen those brake fittings, especially if they are located in the wheel well. They strip real easily.
Nice job and I loved the drop hangar line
That vacuum chamber was a aftermarket replacement, the original one only had one screw hole and whomever replaced that part used JB weld or something on it. I had the same issue with my 68 dodge.
Great walk through. I got a good feel for what's involved.
I've used coat hangers for so many things and now they are getting really hard to get they all seem to be made from plastic. Keep up the good work.
Good video, When I replace brake lines. metal or rubber, I put a piece of cling film on the Master cylinder fluid reserviour , simply undo the top, place the cling film over the reserviour and replace the top, this will stop the brake fluid leaking out the open line, I also put the rubber bleed valve covers on the end of the brake pipe on removal, to stop brake fluid getting on your paint, and when I fit the new line to stop dirt getting in the new line.
Replacing my lines now with nickle copper, its as easy as running stiff wire, create bends by hand as you go under the truck.
Old video but just stumbled onto it. Nice job, something I won't do. First time I tried this the supposedly double flare tool I bought would not (ever) create a double flare. It made single flares perfectly but when I attempted the double the line would slip in the vise and get pushed out. That tool you have from Eastwood looks like the real deal
Same thing happened to me. Autozone, O'Reilly's, and NAPA all have loaner tools that don't do steel lines. I now have the Eastman hand held (in car) version, and will revisit tomorrow. After pulling the fuel tank out of my 94 Accord Wagon, just to get to the failed section of steel line across the rear, both tank strap nuts broke free from their tack-welds, and I had to grind the bolt heads off to remove the straps. Perhaps Eric has a suggestion on how to reattach the tank straps? Mollys? Baling wire? Eric has kept me busy keeping this car running for many years. Thank you Eric !!
@@centralandgrandapartments3118 Aren't cars fun? Start off working on a brake line and now you have to deal with gas tank straps AND the brake line. Good luck
Wow ! What a flare tool !
Good video Eric. I learned a lot and you did a nice job making the new brake line!
Great video Eric! I bought that exact Eastwood flaring tool to do all new lines on my Dodge D150 project. It freaking rocks!!! Perfect flares EVERY time! Eastwood makes a really nice bender that produces perfect kink free bends as well. I do have a question that you or others can hopefully can answer: Eastwood recommended NOT using a tubing cutter as hardens the metal but I saw you had no trouble producing a perfect flare regardless. Do you think it makes much of a difference? I've been cutting with a fine tooth hacksaw then using a file to remove the burrs to get a burr free square ended line. Thoughts?
1/8th inch stainless steel aircraft (AN) double flare at 37 degrees without fancy tools is SO much fun! No scratches, marks or scrapes or stress dulling or micro-wrinkling allowed. Line is handled and worked with protective masking tape. Finished product must be shiny and perfect and test to 8,000 psi. THAT is a challenge.
I've done the other way where u use the old one and then tape it togaither after each bend it helps too I prefer hand bent with no tool as I can get it more precise. I've never throught of the coat hanger thats a great idea too if u don't have a template or someone rigged or ran them wrong when they replaced which is common.anyways Yeah if u hold em togaither and use tape after each bend it makes it super Easy and easy to not kink it and unstrenuous. again great videos man.i love seeing other people's ways of working it's nice to get outside Thoughts.
wow man I'm totaly getting on of those Eastwood double flares so much better I always suspected there was better tools for it.
Thanks for your great videos!!
So many words of the day. Thanks for sharing your knowledge.
I used an Riged Tube bender,it worked great for me.
thank you for telling me you were throwing them on the floor I have not had a good laugh in a while.
Found a trick that works for me. Remove the line take the new line and starting at the end of both new and old tape the two together than make your bends and tape together as you go. This works for me ,try it it may work for you.
I find this interesting viewing being from the UK, what I can gather is this difference
America: 1970s saloons, plentiful, cheap, generally free of grot, easy to work on
Britain: Ha! good luck looking for that Hillman Avenger or Morris Marina you want to tinker with, those things rotted away years ago. Want one cheap? Good luck with that, anything for less than £1500 needs picking up with a dustpan & brush. Want to undo that bolt? Well we'll just seize that solid & make it shear when you breathe on it!
I also like the mechanical practices you use however, in relation to your brake calliper video, the easiest way to get your piston out is to leave the calliper attached to the brake line & pump the pedal until the piston comes free, then clamp your line & remove
Hancockified what?
nice work thanks for taking the time to show us.
747,000 views for a brake line video? Not bad Eric.
Compression fittings also fail PA state inspection as well as NY state inspection.
Dont know why. Those things are more than a proper fix. Stronger and less chance of breaking than the actual metal line itself... someone made a video...
They are ugly but 100% funtional.
@@grumpystony, compression fittings arent good for high pressure. Low pressure they are fine but on a brake system the pressure is way higher than a compression fitting should be trusted.
If they were dont you think auto manufacturers would use them than the time it takes to create a double flare?
@@grumpystony Yes, they are functional, but when (NOT IF) they fail it's trouble because they don't just leak.. you'll lose that brake line. The reason they fail is the high pressure of the brake line. That's the reason why they will fail inspection.
NY State and PA are failed States.
Awesome, I am about to be doing this job next weekend.
Thank you sir! Great.. gives me confidence
love watching your videos thanks maybe i will to repair my fuel line
If you are watching this because you are having to replace a brake line soon there is an easier to bend brand of line than the old-school steel line Eric used. It is called "Ultrabend". You can bend it easily and perfect for those 90 degree bends that old steel line had a tendency to deform at the bottom of the bend. Hell, those round and round bends in the line that usually are in the lines between the master cylinder and proportioning valve (and those round and rounds are there for a reason) are easy to replicate. For years I used the old bulk steel line and it was usually a pain in the butt to bend and form and if you made a mistake you had to start over. With ultrabend, you make a mistake, all you have to do is unbend it and try it again. Also, it is highly corrosion and rust resistant. No, I do not sell parts nor own stock in company that makes it. I am simply a tech that has used both type of line for years and if by chance someone reads this I hope it saves them a lot of grief.
I had my caliper stuck, needed to replace hoses, but the lines and everything just rusted dead so I had to replace everything - both front lines, hoses plus calipers - in the backyard in the rain. What a pain in the A... Now I'm happy I actually have brakes lol
You have just described a brake job. You start at one end and work your way to the other.
I am 18 and bought my truck without brakes. I completely re-did the lines with double flares and such, but I noticed that a simple electric tape covering the line meant no rust to the line ever. I suggest that people actually plasti-dip the line and it is a permanent fix!
until you hit that one big rock. ;)
I thought brake lines were made of materials that didn't rust. I have a coil of copper brake line in my shed for example.
mickles1975 I have never seen a brake line that is immune to rust..ever. They will rust so bad sometimes that pieces of them just cease to exist..You can have a 40 year old car with original brake lines that look perfect, and have a 10 year old car with brake lines rotted right through…The variables include maintenance of fluid, environmental issues, geographical location, composition of the metal etc..Copper is not immune either. Given the right conditions, copper brake lines will turn green and leak. Do a google image search for "copper and corrosion"
The new NiCopp lines don't seem to corrode anywhere near as bad as other materials. I use it or stainless if I want to stop rust.
mickles1975 it depends. It should by made from SS, but it is more expensive.
Grazie per il video. Ciao dall'Italia 🇮🇹
that flare tool is awesome. my last job had one and made brake line jobs a breeze. i been at a new job for about a year and funny we dont get as many blown brake lines as we did over at the other place. anyways going from that flare tool to a hand flare tool sucks, i just been too cheap to buy one as we really only seem to get a brake line ever 4 months or so unlike almost every week at the other place
great video eric. Thanks you!
Excellent video, thanks man!
Concise and clear, great video, thanks!
I know this video is roughly 5 years old, at the end you mentioned trying to keep the end of the lines clean as you fish them down where they need to go. I use a union and screw a flared 2-3" long piece of brake line bent over itself to close the end. I don't wrench the fitting tight. I find I don't ding up the flare, loose the nut down the line or get dirt in the new line when I do this.
I'm looking at getting a new flaring tool to make good bubble flares. trying to decide between this one you use from Eastwood, or the MasterCool inline one.
Great video Sir
Nice flaring tool! Not nit picking or anything but just to add my 2 cents, I find putting a slight bevel on the end also helps it roll over with the flaring tool, oh and of course deburring the inside of the end and making sure it is flush. Otherwise it will end up off center, cracked etc. It's a bit harder to do with the conventional, clamp style, flaring tool most mechanics keep in their box,
Get the copper brake lines from SUR&R. Our Napa sells it. Much easier to work with.
Also way easier to kink and break when you're trying to bend it
Look at that engine bay. I wish cars were still this easy to work on.